Fiber optic bath lighting system is one of the most efficient, durable and safe. It is quite within the power of every owner to choose accessories for its installation and complete the installation. Our recommendations will help you understand the process.
Content:
The organization of lighting in a sauna using optical fiber has recently become more and more popular. Such fiber-optic lamps for baths are much more functional, safer and more economical than traditional light sources. They are ideal for installation in steam rooms, wash rooms and utility rooms.
Features of fiber optic lighting in the bath
Due to their high performance and technical characteristics, these lamps are often installed in steam rooms. Among the main advantages of these structures are:
- Heat resistance... Fiber optic is capable of operating at temperatures up to +200 degrees. Therefore, it can even be mounted on the ceiling of a steam room, where the highest temperature is usually maintained.
- Moisture resistance... The fiber optic system is used to illuminate the pool due to its resistance to high humidity.
- Soft light... Such a lamp does not require the installation of additional lampshades. Its light is diffused, does not hurt the eyes.
- Compactness... The lighting system can be installed directly into the skin. There is no need to allocate space especially for it.
- Safety... Fiber optic conducts only radiation (not current), and therefore its installation in the steam room is absolutely safe. Due to the specificity of the attachment to the fiber bundle, you cannot burn yourself.
- Durability... This type of backlight needs to be replaced much less frequently than its counterparts.
- Easy to install... Installation of a projector, lenses and fibers can be done by hand, even without special technical skills.
- Abundance of design solutions... With the help of a tourniquet, you can create an animation of the starry sky, northern lights, bonfire, waves, storm. The set includes attachments of various colors that can change the tilt of lighting to embody original style ideas. In addition, the tourniquet is flexible, which allows you to give it the desired shape.
- Profitability... Fiber optic uses significantly less power than other types of lighting.
The disadvantages of such lamps include the relatively high cost.
Elements of a fiber-optic lighting system for a bath
Complete, dramatic and pleasing fiber optic bath lighting can be created by complementing the fibers with special crystals and lenses. The combination of optical bundles with other types of illumination, for example, LED, will look original. In the steam room, basic elements such as shelves and benches are trimmed with light conductors.
You can buy fiber-optic lamps for a bath in a set, or you can separately select the components of the system:
- Projector... The amount of light emitted depends on its power. The device uses 12 V halogen lamps. Each of them consumes 50 V and has a high luminous efficiency.
- Fiber... The amount of light emitted also depends on their diameter. With the right choice, you can create directional, general or accent lighting in the bath. For installation in a steam room, you should choose models in a glass rather than a plastic shell. They function better at high temperatures and withstand changes more easily. When selecting, keep in mind that there are harnesses for side and end glow. The first type can be intertwined and create light patterns. The second is set pointwise, for example, imitating the starry sky.
- End products... These are lenses, lamps and crystals that are fixed at the edges of the light guides. It is from them that the direction of the light, its brightness will depend. Traditionally, the end of an optical fiber diffuses light at an angle of 40-60 degrees. If you attach a lens attachment, the angle of refraction can reach 20-25 degrees. When using decorative crystal attachments, the light is focused into a beam at an angle of 180 degrees or more.
- Accessories... Color wheels allow you to create original imitation of shine and shimmer in the room.
Fiber optic side lighting system in the bath
The principle of operation of such a lighting system is extremely simple: the projector is installed outside the steam room, a bundle of fibers transmits light, purified from infrared and ultraviolet radiation. You can carry out the installation yourself, because it does not require drawing up wiring diagrams.
To do this, we act in the following sequence:
- We mount the projector in the dressing room. Choose a spot against the wall adjacent to the steam room. It should be located at a safe distance from the heat source if it is located in the same room.
- Install color discs on the projector, if desired.
- We mark in the steam room the place of installation of the light guides, according to the previously prepared diagram.
- We fix the fiber-optic elements with segments. Please note that the fiber contains a flexible light guide with a high refractive index. If it is necessary to cut it off, then we do this procedure only with a hot knife, after which we carefully grind the cut so that it turns out to be mirrored.
- If desired, we can equip the system with color lens attachments. You can control this effect manually or automatically. In the latter case, we additionally install the switch.
Fiber Optic End Glow System for Bath
Before starting work, you need to draw up a diagram of the placement of point elements in the room. It is better to install such lighting before interior decoration.
We work in this order:
- We measure the distance from the projector to each point of the glow and cut the bundles of the corresponding length.
- We lay the fibers, fixing them temporarily with tape.
- At the exit points, we install the dowels so that they stick out 2-3 cm outward. We attach bundles to them using wire or clamps. This is necessary to comply with the picture and to fix the location vertically.
- We sheathe the surface, removing unnecessary dowels and adhesive tape in the process.
- Cut the fiber to the level of the skin and grind it with fine-grained sanding paper.
- We cut and grind the back ends, assemble them into a connector and connect to the projector.
In the same way, the light guides can be fixed in the wash compartment. If it has a pool, then this type of lighting will look very impressive at its bottom. In the break room, fiber optic lights can be combined with other lighting fixtures. Light conductors in this room can be used to illuminate individual elements, such as a mirror or ceiling. With their help, you can create the optimal atmosphere for relaxation.
Watch the video about the fiber optic lighting system:
It is not difficult to install fiber-optic lamps for a bath in the steam room with your own hands. The main thing is to adhere to the instructions and correctly select the components.
Question: "Can I make an LED with my own hands?" among ordinary craftsmen will surely surprise you. It would seem, why come up with something that has long been invented and mass-produced? However, there is a category of people who love to craft something unusual. For them, designing an LED is an opportunity to repeat the experiments of O.V. Losev, held about a hundred years ago, and a chance to prove to yourself and your friends the reality of creating an LED at home.
What is needed
The main structural material is a piece of silicon carbide. You can't buy it in a regular store, but if you try, you can find it on the Internet among private ads. In addition to it, you will need a pin from a pin, connecting wires, two furniture nails with a wide head and an adjustable voltage source (0-10 volts). You will also need solder and a little skill in using a soldering iron. A simple multimeter is suitable for measuring the parameters of a homemade LED.
Preparatory work
The first step is to find a spot on the silicon carbide surface that is capable of emitting light. To do this, the source material will have to be crushed into several pieces of 2-5 mm in size. Then each of them is alternately placed on a metal plate connected to the plus of a power supply with a voltage of about 10V. The second electrode is a sharp probe or a needle connected to the minus of the power supply.
Then the piece to be examined must be pressed against the plate with tweezers, and with a sharp needle, probe its upper part in search of the luminous area. Thus, the crystal with the highest brightness is selected. It is worth noting that silicon carbide can emit light in the spectrum from orange to green.
LED manufacturing
For ease of installation, it is better to take a 10-15 mm long carnation with a large cap and tin it well. It will serve as the base and heat sink for the crystal. Using a soldering iron, the tin on the head is brought to a liquid state and the prepared carbide specimen is slightly sunk with tweezers. Naturally, the emitting section should be directed upward. After the solder has solidified, you need to make sure that the crystal is securely fixed.
To make a negative electrode, you need a sharp pin and a solid copper wire. As you can see from the photo, both parts are tinned and reliably soldered together. Then a loop is made on the wire to give it the properties of a spring. The free end of the wire is soldered onto the head of the second nail. Both studs are attached to the circuit board at a short distance from each other.
At the final stage, power is supplied to the legs of the nails of the corresponding polarity. The electric circuit is closed by a needle, which is fixed at the point of the crystal with the maximum luminescence. By gradually increasing the supply voltage, you can determine the value at which the brightness ceases to grow rapidly. As a result of the measurements, the voltage drop was 9V, and the forward current was 25 mA. When the polarity changes, silicon carbide ceases to emit light, which partly explains its semiconducting properties.
I would not be surprised if experienced radio amateurs express their negativity to the resulting unusual design, reminiscent of a simple LED. However, sometimes collecting such things yourself is interesting and even useful. An example is radio amateur circles for schoolchildren, in which children get acquainted with the properties of different materials, learn to solder and learn the basics of semiconductors.
Read the same
What made by hand costs about $ 200 and looks much better! In addition, the chandelier is controlled by a remote control and can be successfully used for informational notification.
Note : Sometimes the photos do not exactly match what is described in the step.
Step 1: Equipment and tools
- Black plexiglass sheets with dimensions 50 * 50cm and thick 4-6 mm.
- 200 glass beads diameter 1.7cm;
- 3 watts RGB LEDs with remote control;
- Plastic container;
- Heat shrink tubing;
- IR receiver;
- Epoxy adhesive;
- Chain;
- Transition pipe;
- 120 m fiber optic cable;
- Wires;
- Adhesive tape;
- Black paint;
- Screws;
- Three-pin electrical plug / socket;
- Lamp base.
Tools:
- Grinding disc;
- Drill and drill;
- Hot glue gun;
- Engraver with attachment;
- Saw;
- Jigsaw;
- Varnish and paint brushes;
- Hacksaw;
- Plane;
- Compass;
- Vice;
- Plasticine;
Step 2: Wood Base Top - Part 1
Using a compass, draw a circle with a radius 225 mm... Then, using a hacksaw, cut it out.
Grind the edges of the circle with a disc grinder.
To complete the decoration, paint the top side black (three coats).
Electronics :
Cut a hole large enough to accommodate the 3-pin socket.
Then we will fix it with self-tapping screws.
Place the plastic box on the wooden circle. We drill holes for four short 7 mm screws.
We connect the wires from the power supply to the lamp base.
The photo does not take into account the fact that the lamp of the luminaire is in a plastic box. Since these photos were taken after the project was finished.
Step 3: Wood Base Top - Part 2
Take a chain and cut it into three sections, each of which is 25 cm.
In the wooden base, we will drill three holes in 20 cm from the center. These holes, if properly drilled, will form an equilateral triangle.
Insert the eyelet pin (with a washer on the top and bottom) into the drilled hole and tighten with a nut.
Place the ends of the chains in each loop.
Install the opposite ends into carabiners.
The suspension mechanism is ready.
The pillars will support the plexiglass plates.
Use a plane and sandpaper to smooth the surface of the block.
We apply varnish to the supporting parts to further protect them from moisture.
Let's make marks on the bar every 7 cm(a total of 42 cm), and then cut the workpiece into 6 parts.
Now we will place six hexagon-shaped blocks along the lines on the plexiglass plates between the 3rd and 4th rings.
The last photo is the only picture that shows exactly how all the supports should look at the end of all the operations performed.
Step 4: Plexiglass plate - part 1
Draw a circle with a compass with a radius 225 mm.
Use a jigsaw to cut the wheel and a sander to clean the edges.
Now you need to divide the workpiece into five rings. They will split the chandelier, creating tiered transitions.
Workpiece marking:
- Draw the first circle with a diameter 205 mm, slightly scratching the circle, then draw the outline with a pencil;
- Second circle - radius 160 mm;
- Third circle - radius 115 mm;
- Fourth circle - radius 70 mm;
- Fifth circle - diameter 50 mm.
The width between the markings on the circles is 20 mm.
Step 5: Plexiglass plate - part 2
The circumference of the fifth ring = diameter (5 cm) x π = 15.7 cm. (Round the number to avoid any mistake when working with tools).
Diameter of each glass bead 1.7 cm... Therefore: 15.0 / 1.7 = 8 pcs... The ring used 7 balls to create a small gap between each element.
Repeat this procedure for each ring, making sure to leave the required gap between the balls.
Now is the time to make marks on the rings where the balls will be located.
To do this (the fifth ring is considered as an example), take 7 glass balls, plasticine and attach the balls to the workpiece. After that we outline their outline with a pencil.
Make sure the pencil is perpendicular to the base. After that we mark the centers of the future holes.
We repeat this procedure for the other four rings.
After all the places have been marked with a drill 0.5 mm drill a hole.
Step 6: light box
The light source and receiver are inside the box.
Let's mark the center at the end of the plastic box. Let's drill a hole of the same cross-section as the base diameter. Install the pipe adapter to the opposite end of the box.
Now we will install the IR sensor on the pre-existing terminal. (Sorry no photo).
Let's cut three wires with a length of 20 cm everyone.
Let's strip the ends of the wires.
Connect one wire to the lead to the existing IR sensor
Cover the connection with a heat shrink tube and then wire it with wire (no soldering required).
Attach the appropriate wires to the IR sensor and apply heat shrink tubing.
Place the lamp in the light box and close it. Now we can screw the light box onto the wood base using the screws and pilot holes we made earlier.
Step 7: mount the balls
In this step, we will use a ball engraver.
Let's make a jig that will hold the balls (two clamps are attached to the wood). The whole structure is very stable and also allows you to work freely with the tools.
We will repeat the procedure 180 times !!! Yes, I know this will take the longest, but be patient even when some of them break ...
Step 8: cut the fiber
Exist 5 levels fiber optic.
Using a centimeter and scissors, cut the fiber according to the table:
- 7x - 75 cm of thread + 10 cm = 85cm each;
- 21x - 60cm thread + 15cm = 75cm;
- 35x - 45cm thread + 20cm = 65cm;
- 50x - 30cm threads + 25cm = 55cm;
- 64x - 15cm threads + 30cm = 45cm.
WARNING !: This is the length of each fiber including the ball. In order for each layer to connect to the light box, you must add extra length to the fiber to mount its system.
Step 9: install the threads
Let's collect the bundles. For example, 7x 85cm or 50x 55cm we will use heat shrink tubing to keep them together. Let's repeat these steps for all other groups.
Take 7x 85cm strands and thread each strand through the hole in the inner ring of the bottom plate.
You must pull all the threads through one hole! This will allow for much better light transmission and mounting of the threads in a closed case.
To make a uniform end cut, heat the trowel with a blowtorch until it is hot enough to melt the fibers.
Step 10: install the balls
For fixing, you need to use epoxy, not super glue.
Place the fibers in the hole and press down with tape to make a small cradle for the ball. The cradle should "hug" the ball and take on the weight of the glass, thus allowing the glue to dry. I recommend wrapping with a second layer of tape to avoid the chance of losing stiffness.
The final effect is that you cannot see the glue, the fiber magically touches the glass when viewed from the bottom and side.
Step 11: basic decorations
Plexiglass pieces long 303 mm, divide into 3 parts and cut with a band saw, their width is 30 mm.
Divide the squares into 3 equal parts
Use a saw to cut these rectangles
Remove the plexiglass paper
We attach the plates with super glue to a wooden base, use a square for accurate alignment.
Let's repeat this procedure for all 47 pieces.
Step 12: end result
This is how unusual it turned out craft —
Many will ask the question - why make an LED chandelier with their own hands, if such a thing can be bought in a store?
In part, this question is really fair. There are inexpensive Chinese chandeliers that are easier to buy off-the-shelf. the price gain from homemade making such a thing will still not be so significant.
However, the situation is very different with expensive large models, such as you can see in good restaurants, hotels or theaters. Their price most often lies in the range of 60,000 rubles or more. In many cases, this amount can be overwhelming. At the same time, the cost of such a product may well be within 3000 - 6000.
In addition, situations arise when an absolutely individual approach is required for interior decoration, and not a single purchased standard model will simply look good.
In general, sometimes it can be very profitable to make a chandelier yourself.
Today we will look at a small example, the purpose of which was not to make a masterpiece. We would just like to show you some interesting practical tricks in this matter. Knowing them, you can come up with your own interesting design and bring it to life.
So - we need:
1) Black plexiglass plate 50cm by 50cm
2) Pieces of 200 transparent glass beads
3) RGB LEDs
4) Controller for LEDs
5) Heat shrink
6) Power supply
7) Glue
8) Fiber optic
9) Plywood sheet
10) Electrical tape, socket and a number of other little things, the list of which directly depends on your idea.
First of all, we will mark the base of our chandelier on the plywood. In this case, it will be a circle. We carefully cut it out, mount an outlet there and connect the power supply. In our case, we used an outlet similar to the one on the back of the computer's system unit. This choice, in fact, is not determined by anything - you can use any other option.
Then we make a mount for our chandelier and cut off the chains of the required length, it will hang on them. Cut out the second plywood circle and a very even plywood circle, so that it is 5 millimeters larger than the plywood one. Then we will put them together. This step is needed to reinforce the plexiglass, which is not designed for stress.
Now we have one plywood circle and one double layer (plywood + plexiglass). This is the base of our chandelier.
Let's connect these 2 levels with small neat planks to get some kind of a cylinder.
We mark the circle with concentric circles, thereby marking the contours where the balls will be located.
We drill small holes where the centers of the balls will be.
Now you need to assemble a box in which the light from the RGB LED will pass into the fiber. In the example we used a 12 Volt LED, however in real life we would advise you to put 4 3 Volt RGB LEDs connected in series. We connect the controller to the LEDs.
We use a plastic fitting as a fiber optic clamp.
We proceed to the preparation of the balls, in each of which a non-through hole should be drilled approximately to the center. This is a difficult and time-consuming task. It is best to use a dremel. It is also important to consider the issue of ball attachment during the drilling process.
The main feature of our project is the use of fiber optic. We will deal with it further. Cut the fiber very carefully.
ATTENTION! Consider the fact that in addition to the length of the fiber from the ball to the plexiglass, there must be some margin for connecting to the LED.
In our case, the dimensions are as follows
7 strands 75cm + 10cm = 85cm
21 strands 60cm + 15cm = 75cm
35 strands 45cm + 20cm = 65cm
50 strands 30cm + 25cm = 55cm
64 strands 15cm + 30cm = 45cm
We assemble the fiber into a bundle, put a heat-shrink tube on the end, push the bundle against the table (as a result, all the fibers will be at the same level), heat the heat-shrink so that it tightly compresses the fibers to each other. It turns out like a "broom" with a handle. We fix the end compressed by heat shrinkage in the fitting and spread the fibers along the holes drilled in the plexiglass.
Pour some glue on a piece of paper, dip a toothpick in it and gently coat the hole in the ball. Insert the fiber there and temporarily secure the joint with tape. Give it a little time for everything to freeze. Check the tightness of the connection. It is important to exclude the possibility of the ball falling off.
We hang the chandelier together with the balls and carefully adjust the length of the fibers for each ball. It is necessary to achieve that the balls hang perfectly at the planned level. We fix the correct position of the fiber with hot glue.
Then we make the sides for our cylinder.
Everything! As a result, we have an original chandelier with luminous balls, which can change their color depending on the button you pressed on the remote control. You will also have many interesting effects at your disposal.
This idea seems to us very promising and has several extensions, for example:
Obviously, in the scheme described above, it does not shine with ordinary light and can only be an element of decor. But no one bothers you to make yourself a more complete version by adding ordinary white LEDs to it.
You can make the outer rings of the balls glow with one color (for example, red), and the inner ones with a controllable color. You will get a very beautiful multi-colored chandelier. In this case, you will need to make several fittings, each of which will shine a different color.
In general, this approach provides a really wide field of maneuver!
Have you ever held in your hands a huge LED, the size of a human fist? Of course not, because they don't exist. I will show you how to make such an original little thing with your own hands. This LED light-emitting diode will be exactly like its small brother, except that the brightness of the light will be many times higher.
It will take
- Plastic bottle.
- The board is textolite, foil.
- Thick wire.
- A piece of LED strip.
- 5-10 ohm resistor.
- Epoxy resin with hardener.
Making a large LED
So, let's figure out for a start what the LED consists of. The first is two leads that go into the body of the LED. Further, you can see two areas, one smaller is the anode, and the other larger is the cathode. On the cathode there is a platform with a reflector and a semiconductor crystal. There is a lens above all of this, which is a monolith with the body of the LED.
First, let's make an imitation of a large semiconductor crystal with a reflector. We take the LED strip and unsolder the chip elements from it. If there is no hair dryer, heat it up with a soldering iron.
Cut out such a board from a piece of foil-clad PCB.
We trick it and solder the LED chip on it.
We also solder the contact and the current-extinguishing resistor.
Let's check the power supply. The crystal is ready.
For greater visual similarity, we cut out the cathode and anode from the PCB.
The elements are located at the bottom of the case.
We take a thick wire and make contacts from it. We solder them to the sites.
Next, we smear the light module with hot glue and glue it perpendicularly to the largest area - the cathode.
We solder the output to the board.
Next, we need to prepare a mold for pouring epoxy resin. For this purpose, a plastic bottle will serve us.
Let's cut it in the middle and put the upper part on the lower one.
There is an empty area in the lid area where the epoxy will be poured. In order not to waste extra material, fill the voids of the neck with foil.
Strictly according to the instructions, mix the hardener with the resin and mix well.
We fix the insides with clerical clips so that they float in the air. Pour the composition into the mold.
We are waiting for 24 hours. After drying, cut the bottle with a scalpel and remove parts of the bottle from the surface.
Here's what happened:
We cut off the foil with a mechanical tool and grind surface irregularities.
We grind with fine sandpaper, blotting it in water. This will remove all the smallest scratches.
It's time to polish. Polishing paste can be obtained from motorists. In extreme cases, toothpaste is suitable.