Everyone, even novice gardeners, has heard about the value of compost. However, the rules for its formation and application are not known to everyone. Many people think that in order for the compost to succeed, it is enough to dump waste and plant residues in one place during the summer, and everything is ready by spring. However, this is far from the case, and in order for your compost pile to truly become a valuable material, it must be worked on.
Compost. © GGWTV Content:
What is compost?
If you look in the encyclopedia, you can find an accurate description of what compost is: compost is a type of organic fertilizer obtained as a result of the decomposition of organic residues under the influence of the activity of various microorganisms. Therefore, for its formation, several components are needed: directly organic matter, microorganisms and conditions for their life. Based on this, let's look at how to make compost with your own hands.
What is the compost heap made of?
The first thing to understand when forming a compost heap is that not everything can be thrown into it.
What can you put in compost?
Can: any plant residues (cut grass, chopped tree branches, weeds, leaves, tops), organic waste from the kitchen table (cleaning vegetables, egg shells, tea leaves, coffee grounds), straw, hay, manure used on the bedding for cattle (better horse or cow), paper.
Organic matter in the compost. © yvw What shouldn't be put in compost?
It is forbidden: plants infected with diseases, rhizomes of harmful weeds, fats, inorganic debris, synthetic fabrics. It is not recommended to get cabbage into the compost, as its rotting causes an unpleasant odor, as well as meat waste, since in addition to the stench, they also attract rats.
But that's not all. There are two rules to keep in mind when forming a compost heap. First, the finer the waste, the faster they rot. Second, the ratio of green (nitrogen-rich) and brown (poor fiber) masses should correspond to 1: 5. This ratio will allow bacteria to fully develop and significantly accelerate the process of compost maturation.
Since it is difficult to form a compost heap in one go and in most cases it is laid gradually, it is quite difficult to understand the amount of green and brown components embedded in it by eye. But there are principles that you can focus on in order to understand what needs to be added: if the compost heap has an unpleasant smell, then it lacks a brown component, if it is cool and does not have visible fumes, it is necessary to add green mass. If the balance is maintained, the compost heap should smell like earth, emit heat, be humid and slightly steam.
Ideally, a composting pile is laid out in layers, alternating not only green and brown filling, but also finer and coarser fractions of components. After the final formation, it is covered with a layer of earth (5 cm), and then with old straw or specially perforated (for ventilation) film.
Compost heap formation
Collecting organic residues in one place is far from all. For convenience and a neat appearance, the place reserved for the formation of compost must be protected. However, it is better to do this not with slate or metal, but by forming a wooden frame. This is necessary so that the heap can "breathe". The dimensions for the box should be approximately 1.5 x 1 m (the first indicator is the width, the second is the height), the length can be any.
The location chosen for the formation of the compost heap also matters. First, it must be protected from the winds and the scorching midday sun. Secondly, it is hidden from prying eyes. And, if necessary, decorated with green plantings or climbing plants.
The best period for the formation of the conceived business is autumn, rich in residues of plant origin, as well as spring and summer. The winter period is not suitable for composting due to unfavorable temperature conditions.
Before you start laying organic matter, it is good to lay a film or a layer of peat 10 cm thick on the bottom of the future heap deepened into the ground (by 20 cm). This will preserve nutrients and moisture. AND!!! You should not resort to the method of collecting residues in a pit, as excess moisture often collects in compost pits, which worsens and lengthens the composting process.
Composter structure. © University of Tennessee
Compost pile care
Now that we know the basic principles of forming a compost heap, we need to remember about the rules for caring for it, since it depends on their implementation: whether the compost will have time to form in a year or not, whether it will be complete and of high quality. And these rules are quite simple.
- Once a month, the compost heap must be agitated. In this case, it is good to achieve the most complete mixing of the residues. This will make the organic matter loose, enrich it with oxygen, and allow it to burn out and not rot. If it is difficult for you to shovel a pile, at least pierce it from all sides with a pitchfork.
- It is very important to monitor the moisture content of the compost heap. If it dries up, moisturize it regularly. However, you cannot overdo it here, but remembering that it is wet does not mean wet! Excess moisture displaces the air, and therefore impairs the work of the bacteria necessary for composting. Therefore, carefully water your pile with a watering can rather than a hose, preferring not to top up rather than overflow. During lingering rains and after watering, cover it with foil.
- If you want to speed up the maturation of the compost, make sure that enough nitrogen gets into the pile - it is contained in the green parts of plants and slurry. How to determine their lack, we said above.
Compost. © Fertile Fiber Compost readiness indicators
How long it will take to ripen the compost heap depends on the conditions provided for this. Usually, the complete overheating of organic residues occurs in 1–1.5 years. The readiness of the fertilizer is determined visually and by smell - organic matter becomes a crumbly dark brown mass with the smell of forest soil.
Composting is beneficial because it allows you to use food and organic waste that would have been thrown away to create a nutrient-rich fertilizer. Composting requires composting space and a wide variety of biodegradable waste, preferably from both the kitchen and the street. With the guidelines in this article, you can produce quality compost for your garden. With the right compost, you can give your plants all the nutrients they need and make the soil more fertile while using waste.
Steps
How to make a compost pile in the garden
- It is best to place the pile on the ground a few meters away from the plants, rather than on a tile or wood floor. This will make it easier to turn the compost.
-
Purchase a ready-made composting container. If you don't want to waste time preparing the site, buy a ready-made container from a garden supply store. Typically, containers are cylindrical and made of plastic. They have a lid at the top and no bottom at the bottom. These are cheap gadgets that do not require training.
- Plastic containers protect the compost from pests and other animals that might enter your garden. If the container has no lid or short edges, the compost will attract animals.
-
Use only selected animal products. If you have food waste bins in your city, you can throw all animal products in there, but you cannot do this at home. It is best to add eggshells to the compost as they contain the calcium needed for plant growth.
Know what foods you shouldn't collect. There are a number of biodegradable products that should not be composted at home for health, hygiene and slow degradation reasons. These include:
- meat and trimmings of meat products;
- bones;
- fish and fish bones;
- oil and fat;
- human or animal excrement (excluding herbal excrement such as rabbits and horses).
Choose a location for the compost heap. The pile should be located not too close to the house so that smells do not bother you and so that pests that will come to smell do not climb into your house. The pile can be located both in the shade and in the sun, but it should be understood that the waste will decompose more quickly in the sun, but it will need more water. Arrange the pile so that you have enough room to turn the waste.
How to fill the container
-
Cover the bottom with a light brown material if possible. Place leaves and other dry plant debris on the ground or bottom first. For the heap to have a solid foundation, the thickness of the first layer should be at least 5-10 centimeters.
- If you don't have brown material, you can do without it. A small amount of garden soil or fresh compost can be used to create the necessary bacteria in the compost heap.
-
Collect green waste. Green organic waste contains a lot of nitrogen, which will start the heating process in the compost heap. To start the process, young weeds are suitable (it is important to pick them before they have seeds), comfrey leaves, yarrow, cut grass. You can also pile green fruits and vegetables, peelings of fruits and vegetables, coffee pomace, tea leaves (including the contents of tea bags), and manure from chickens, turkeys, cows, or horses.
- Do not compress large amounts of green waste together as they can become anaerobic. This means that because of them, there will not be enough oxygen in the heap for beneficial microbes to multiply and contribute to the decomposition of waste.
-
Use a lot of brown waste. Brown waste contains a large amount of carbon, which forms fibers. Brown waste includes leaves (autumn), dead plants and weeds, sawdust, straw, dried plants (including loose dried flower compositions), hay.
Add other waste to the heap. You can also compost the following waste: paper towels, paper bags, cotton clothing (cut into pieces), eggshells, hair and animal dander. However, this waste can only be added in small quantities.
Fold all waste in several layers. The ideal proportion is three parts brown waste and one part green, or equal parts brown and green waste. This waste must be in contact with each other and must be stacked in layers of several centimeters.
Place a lid on the container or hide food waste under a layer of vegetable waste. If you want to use food waste, be aware that this garbage can attract animals and insects, and it can give off an unpleasant odor. To prevent this from happening, cover the entire container with a lid or hide food waste under a layer of vegetable debris.
- If you don't have leaves or twigs, just slip food waste under the top layer.
How to manage compost
-
Keep the compost moist. In order for organic substances to decompose faster, they need to be in contact with moisture. The easiest way is to spray each layer of waste with a little water while building the heap. Add water or damp green waste if the pile appears dry. If the pile is too wet, add dry brown waste.
- In dry weather, add water to the waste bucket before heaping the waste. This will keep the pile moist.
- The pile should be as damp as a sponge that has been squeezed out of water.
-
Shred the waste to speed up the decomposition process. Chop up leaves and other plant debris, as well as eggshells. Since larger pieces take longer to decompose, shredding will speed up the composting process.
Speed up the heating process. The compost heap must be warm so that microbes can grow there and start the process of decomposing organic waste. Covering the compost pile with black garden wrap or any other dark material during cold weather will increase the temperature inside.
- The temperature of the compost heap is extremely important as it is an indicator of microbial activity and decomposition. The easiest way to assess the temperature is by touch. If the heap is warm or hot, the process goes according to plan. If the temperature of the heap is the same as the ambient temperature, it means that the microbial activity has slowed down and that you need to add more waste with a higher nitrogen content (green).
- If you cover the container, the compost heap will look neater.
-
Stir the compost. Move the inner layers to the outside and the lower ones to the top. Break up any lumps and pieces that stick together. If you will be adding waste to the pile, do so while turning to mix well.
- You can turn the pile over with a pitchfork elsewhere. Stir the compost separately and return to the container. By turning it over, air will enter the heap and accelerate decomposition.
- You can also buy a special flipping device. There is a special mixer: it is a long pole with a handle at one end and paddles at the other. Dip the pole into the pile and turn the handle to mix everything.
-
Turn the pile every 1-2 weeks. It is important to stir the compost regularly, especially if you are adding new food waste that may start to smell if not mixed with other trash. By turning it over, the right bacteria begin to grow in the heap and a sweet smell is created, and the decomposition process is accelerated.
-
Learn to tell when the compost is ready. At some point, you will need to stop adding fresh litter to the compost in order for the composting process to complete. You will know the compost is ready when it stops heating up and turns evenly brown.
- The process usually takes 2-3 months. It all depends on the weather conditions and the contents of the heap.
- Plants can grow in very fresh compost, but if the decomposition process continues, the compost can start pulling nitrogen out of the ground. If you think the compost is ready, either leave it in the container for a while, or spread it over the soil in the garden, leave it on for a few weeks and plant the plants only after that.
-
Use compost . If all goes well, you will end up with a layer of good compost at the bottom of the container. Take it out and spread it on the ground or bury it in flower beds or beds.
- Try running the compost through a sieve or picking out large lumps with your hands that have not yet decomposed.
- The composting process is simple and fast. By collecting a cubic meter of waste, keeping it at the correct moisture level, and turning it over weekly, you can provide yourself with several lots of good compost per year.
Discussing the benefits of composting is like discussing the benefits of clean hands, even indecent. Not only do we recycle waste, but we also get valuable organic fertilizer. The whole question is how to properly prepare compost in the country, how to make a compost box, and also how to speed up this process and not do unnecessary work.
How is compost made
Compost is organic waste decomposed by bacteria, fungi, worms and insects. The result is a nutrient substrate saturated with nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc. During natural heating, pathogenic microorganisms and helminth eggs, many weed seeds die in it. In addition, the amount of cellulose and pectins decreases, which do not allow plants to fully receive all the same nitrogen and phosphorus. In general, a great thing for improving the quality of the soil. However, compost production has its own nuances.
Nicola's Garden Art Inc.
How to make compost on the site: with or without oxygen
First of all, it is worth deciding on the type of composting. There are two of them: aerobic occurs with the participation of oxygen, anaerobic - without it. Each method has its own adherents.
With the anaerobic method, a hole 60-100 cm deep is pulled out in the ground, it is desirable to concreted the bottom and sides in it. Chopped organic waste is placed in this pool, they are compacted, covered with a film and covered with a layer of earth on top. In the pit, ensiling begins, anaerobic bacteria are slowly but surely doing their job.
Amy renea
With this method, a full-fledged compost will be obtained at best by the next season. However, many gardeners do not wait, and after a month they use silage - they lay it under the beds, cover it with soil and plant seeds. Silage will "reach" in the ground, but it will attract earthworms, the gardener's best friends. The closed type of composting has one more disadvantage, in addition to the long wait for the result: the smell of hydrogen sulfide, which, like methane, is abundantly released during the fermentation of wet waste. But, as supporters of this method assure, it's worth it: supposedly anaerobic bacteria are more useful than aerobic ones, and "cold" (soil temperature rarely exceeds 35 degrees) composting is more useful than hot composting. And in general, the longer organic matter decomposes, the more valuable microorganisms it contains. It is difficult to say whether this is true or not, but the fact that weed seeds survive well with closed composting is a fact.
Therefore, most often gardeners use an aerobic method of composting, using oxygen. We will discuss it in more detail.
Homefront farmers
Jocelyn H. Chilvers
CompoKeeper
The gardener's path is littered with hundreds of composting tips. Some do not put fast-rooting plants like field bindweed in the compost - otherwise they will sprout and ruin the whole holiday (let them dry out first). Others laugh at these tricks - everything will overwhelm. Whether to lay the tops of tomatoes and potatoes, strawberry leaves in the summer cottage compost - everyone also decides for himself. They are often afflicted with disease, but this is not at all necessary. But if you treated plants with chemicals from pests, it is definitely better not to put them in compost. Plants infected with viruses must be burned.
Why are hard and sharp elements in compost dangerous?
“I would not recommend adding twigs, tough stems (especially those with thorns - from roses), cones to the compost - they decompose for 3-4 years, and usually it takes a year to ripen the compost. As a result, sharp, rigid elements remain in it, - says landscape designer Anna Podolina, a member of the ecological movement "Garbage. Bolshe.No", who founded and oversees the direction of bio-processing of waste. - For the same reason, any bones are dangerous! They are sharp, hard, and sometimes do not decompose in three years. When working in the garden, it is easy to get injured with sharp fragments in the compost, many bacteria will get into the wound. Very dangerous tetanus-inducing ones can also get in! This is the main problem with bones in compost, not that cats or dogs visit. And no one is safe from mice or rats in the country. "
Grafted landscapes
How to make compost right: the science of planting
Before preparing the compost, let's understand the recipe. All organic matter for composting is divided into two main groups: nitrogenous and carbonaceous, or, as they are also called, "green" and "brown". From the name it is clear that one group actively produces nitrogen, the other - carbon. In a well-placed compost, the layers of both groups should alternate. The bottom layer is “brown”.
- Nitrogenous organics: fresh grass, food waste, vegetables and fruits, grains and seeds, flowers, algae, tea, coffee, manure and chicken droppings.
- Carbonaceous organic matter: dry leaves, needles, trees, branches, sawdust, hay, straw, wood ash, paper.
- There are also neutral organics - for example, eggshells.
Claude Pasquer Architecte Paysagiste DPLG
Ideally, the ratio of carbon to nitrogen in maturing compost should be 30: 1. There are averaged parameters: for example, in fresh grass this ratio is 15: 1, and in dry leaves it is 50: 1. But to understand that it's time to adjust the balance, your nose will help you.
It is better to put large branches at the bottom of the compost bin, they will provide air access. You can use a very small "pillow" of sawdust for drainage. Further, nitrogenous layers alternate with carbon ones: we shift the green grass from the lawn with last year's leaves, etc. The optimal layer thickness is 15 cm. Sprinkle a little earth on top of each layer - it already contains the necessary microorganisms, they will start the decomposition process faster. Also cover the top of the box with earth. It is best to place new waste in the middle of the pile to avoid attracting flies and rodents.
Gardeners-chemists add dolomite flour, superphosphate and potassium to the composter, but with proper care, the compost will receive all the necessary minerals without these additives.
Claude Pasquer Architecte Paysagiste DPLG
What happens if you do not alternate layers
Nitrogenous materials are called "firebox" - they decompose and heat up. The hotter the pile, the faster the compost matures. However, this environment is too acidic and lacks oxygen. You can deoxidize the nitrogenous layer with ash or chalk. Or add carbonaceous materials to the "furnace" - they do not heat up, contain a lot of air and consume nitrogen. At the same time, carbonaceous materials will decompose for a very long time without nitrogenous materials. To speed up, they are sometimes flavored with urea or nitrate at the rate of 1 kg per 1 cubic meter.
Watch your temperature. If it exceeds 70 degrees, the beneficial bacteria will die. If the pile "burns", its contents should be transferred to another box or mixed well.
GARDIGAME
How to make a composter
For composting waste, pits, trenches, heaps, boxes are made, ready-made composters are used. Whatever it is, it is better to choose a place in the shade, otherwise the moisture from the waste will quickly evaporate, and you will have to water your treasure all the time.
Pits are usually used for cold composting. For hot - heaps and boxes. The compost heap is not a pleasant sight. It is laid with a trapezoid, the height and width of the heap should not exceed 1.5 m.
Most often, a box is made for composting - this way the contents do not crumble, it is convenient to mix it, and it looks neater than a heap. The stores sell plastic composter boxes, cost from 2 thousand rubles and more. But why overpay?
Noelle Johnson Landscape Consulting
How to make a compost bin with your own hands
To do this, you can use boards, pallets, old barrels or a metal mesh like a chain-link. The compost bin is pretty simple. It should be no more than 1.5 m in height, otherwise it will be difficult to mix the contents in order to provide ventilation - without it, rotting with an unpleasant odor will begin. The length and width of the box do not have clear standards, most often they are 1x2 m and 1x1.5 m. You should not make a box less than 1 m wide, since the compost mass may not be enough for heating.
Steve lick timberworks
Sometimes the area under the composter is concreted - this is convenient for collecting mature compost, but it impairs drainage and blocks the path of earthworms. The same goes for “pillows” made of clay, peat or sand. They are only needed if the compost is made from faeces and slurry.
When it comes to garden waste, it is more convenient to place the compost block directly on the ground. The most important thing is to provide air access to the sides and bottom. Therefore, the box is placed on blocks or planks. It does not have a solid bottom: large branches are laid directly on the bars, and already on them - sawdust for drainage, grass and everything else. Above - earth or peat.
GARDIGAME
In the photo: the net protects the composter from rodents, but does not prevent it from being "ventilated"
Birdseye Design
A box is a conditional concept. It is more convenient for someone to drill holes in a barrel that has served its purpose, for someone to dig in four pillars and enclose them with a net. And for someone - to build a whole composting palace under the roof.
At Home Organic Farms
The lid and door are useful but optional options. The door will help you extract the finished compost from the bottom, if you are not going to dig up the contents of the bin. You can even make a tailgate. The lid will cover the box from the sun and intruders.
BLUEWAGON LANDSCAPE & DESIGN INC
Where to put the compost bin and how to decorate
According to sanitary standards, the composting device should be removed 8 m from the well, including the neighboring one. If the site has a slope, then the pit is made below the well. One meter must be retreated from the fence.
If there is not enough space, the compost bin can be made from one section, two or even three - fresh compost matures in one, the ready mixture is waiting for its fate in the second. And the third is for shifting, so that the decomposition process goes faster.
Elena Stepanova
In the photo: vertical flower bed- a good idea how to make a garden composter with your own hands
As long as there are compost bins, so many gardeners puzzle over how to hide them in the surrounding beauty. One of the most interesting ways is a decorative flower bed, made in a table on wheels. It is rolled over the top of the composter. When access to the drawer is needed, the flowerbed table is pushed back. Another way is to combine the composter with the flower bed right away.
Noland Landscape Design
In the photo: you can cover the compost bin with screens, trellises or a green roof.
Claude Pasquer Architecte Paysagiste DPLG
In the photo: you can even make a garden sculpture out of a composter. For example, a mushroom
How to speed up the maturation of compost in the country
Of course, all gardeners though know how to compost quickly. Depending on the composition and care, it can mature from two months to two years. The easiest way to speed up this process is to add biologics with bacteria. There are many of them on the market: Baikal EM-1, Vostok EM-1, Vozrozhdenie, Shining, Urgas, Gumisol, Tamir. Most accelerators are classified as microbiological soil improvement fertilizers. Depending on the brand, they may contain lactic acid, nitrogen-fixing and photosynthetic bacteria, microscopic yeast, radiant fungi and their waste products. This army accelerates the decomposition of organic waste and suppresses pathogens. Each layer is sprayed with a solution with bacteria (read the dilution instructions carefully). After that, the contents are usually poured over with water, covered with earth and covered with polyethylene.
Elena Veselova
If you don't trust bottled preparations, use ready-made, mature compost instead - pour it between the layers. This material is teeming with working microorganisms, so in 2-3 months you can get the finished material. The decomposition can be accelerated by watering the maturing compost with manure infusion or adding bird droppings to it. Some gardeners water the pile with herbal infusion (herbal ferments).
When looking for the perfect method to compost quickly, remember that the smaller the waste, the faster it decomposes. Therefore, the branches should be cut, the paper should be torn, etc.
How to care for compost
In aerobic composting, microorganisms need air. Therefore, the compost needs to be mixed from time to time. This can be done within 10 days after the bookmark. While stirring, loosen the contents, there should be no lumps in it.
To prevent compost from caking and ensiling, it is better to dry the tops and grass before placing them in the box.
For effective decomposition, organic matter needs moisture, the compost should not dry out. But you can't fill it in either, this will slow down the process. The ideal humidity is 60%. We check this way: we take the compost from the depths and squeeze it in our hand - if there are drops of moisture, then there is enough water. The composter must be closed when it rains. Forgot to close - shuffle the content. Overmoistened - add carbon waste, it will remove water.
GARDIGAME
Watch your nitrogen and hydrocarbon balance. If the compost has cooled down quickly or does not want to heat up at all, then you need to add waste from the nitrogen group - for example, fresh grass. The smell of ammonia has appeared - it's time to add carbonaceous components. Whether to add in such cases store fertilizers - urea or saltpeter - is a controversial issue. Most gardeners believe that this degrades the quality and environmental friendliness of the product, so it is better to do with natural remedies. The smell of rotten eggs indicates a lack of oxygen - take a pitchfork and stir the compost. Those who do not have the opportunity to regularly mix the contents of the compost bin, rearrange the layers with large branches, this prevents them from caking.
Nature's Realm
What is a composting trench
A special type of compost pit is a trench bed. Usually it is dug half a meter deep. In summer, waste is dumped into it, sprinkled with mature humus, poured with manure infusion. For the winter, they cover with sawdust. These beds are ideal for planting cucumbers, zucchini and watermelons with melons.
Sushiiphoto
Next year, when there is less nitrogen in the trench, you can plant onions, cabbage or tomatoes with peppers here. Compost beds are effective for five years. It is better to plant carrots and potatoes last in them. And then refill with fresh compost.
Amy renea
How to compost in trash bags
One of the most popular composting techniques in recent years is the use of thick plastic garbage bags. Actually, there are two methods. First: mix nitrogenous and carbonaceous waste (grass and dry leaves) in the bag, tie the bag, make holes in it with a pitchfork and leave it there for a year. The only advantage over traditional composting is that the bag is easier to move and thaws faster than the pile.
The second method is “fast”: a layer of sod is placed on the bottom of the bag, then organic matter is poured, which is spilled with “Baikal” or another compost accelerator. The bag is tightly tied, wrapped with tape and left untouched for two months. Fertilizer is usually ready by this time.
CompoKeeper
There is an opinion that the bags must be necessarily black, opaque. But, as the son of mistakes shows - experience, and in construction bags, under the influence of biostimulants, the grass quickly overheats. Experienced gardeners and, moreover, ecologists are skeptical about such experiments - they are not environmentally friendly.
Vermicomposting
In vermicomposting, the main labor force is earthworms. They pass organic matter along with microorganisms and fungi through themselves, turning them into a valuable fertilizer.
Why are worms good? They not only accelerate the maturation of the compost, but also saturate it with useful substances, disinfect it, and give it a granular form. In this case, no questionable additives are used. The compost processed by worms is called bimohumus and costs decent money in stores. And a worm worker is wonderful, he is able to produce up to 100 grams of useful substrate per season. It is not surprising that this method is gaining popularity from year to year, there are many benefits devoted to breeding worms on the site. Let's dwell on the main principles.
Mark hickman homes
Worms are different. The productivity of specially bred Californian and our "prospectors" is much higher than that of ordinary rainwater. But they often die, freeze and do not always take root, especially if they fall into the hands of a beginner. Local individuals, accustomed to the climate and soil, are much more tenacious.
To breed worms, you need a worm nursery. They are made in pipes, boxes (piles), beds, but not in pits. Most often it is a box-cube about a meter high with a door from below. Below is a fine mesh so that moles do not crawl through. 30-40 cm of ready-made or semi-mature compost is placed in it, poured with water and left to "lie down". After a week, you can put the worms in their native soil into the compost - that is, not just pour out the residents' jar, but bury a lump of earth with worms in the compost. This is necessary for their nutritional adaptation. Then you can add new compost and do not forget to water it (just not with ice water). It is recommended to mineralize the substrate that the worms process from time to time - little by little add ground gypsum, chalk, eggshells, dolomite flour.
Steve Masley Consulting and Design
A place in the shade is chosen for the wormhole. It is better to close the box on top with a lid, and if it is a ridge, then with straw or burlap. Whether the worms have switched to a new substrate will be seen by their condition. The settled tenants will be clean and mobile. The recycled vermicompost will be at the bottom - that's what the door is for. To prevent the compost from stale in the worm house, it must be dug up, but not with a shovel, but with a pitchfork, so as not to damage the worms. An important point: these workers do not tolerate acidic or too alkaline environments. PH - 6 to 8. To reduce acidity, use dolomite flour and chalk, and alkalinity use gypsum. Do not forget that ash is a strong alkali, more careful with it.
After the temperature drops below 4 degrees, and the worms go into hibernation, do not forget to fill them with "food" - so that in the spring there will be something to eat. From above, the box is covered with earth by 30 cm and covered with straw. And close all the cracks so that rodents don't get into it. For reliability, you can spill the wormhole with water - it will become an impregnable ice fortress.
Pennsylvania Landscape & Nursery Association
Can it be used as a compost for mushrooms?
If you are looking for how to make compost for mushrooms, then keep in mind: the substrate that was obtained from the decomposition of organic waste is not suitable for growing mushrooms. Compost for mushrooms is prepared within a month from horse or cow manure, chicken manure or a mixture thereof, wheat or alfalfa straw, alabaster and / or chalk, water. Initially, all the components are laid in layers, and then they are interrupted several times. Depending on the composition, there is a procedure for re-laying and adding new components so that the soil for the mycelium is correctly formed. Cultivation of champignons is a whole science and a separate topic.
B. Jane Gardens
Relax and have fun
“From the abundance of information, it may seem to a beginner that compost is something very complex and requires constant attention, supervision and action. In fact, compost is very simple, - says Anna Podolina from the environmental movement Garbage. Bigger. No. - Even if you just dump suitable chopped organic matter in one place, it will turn into “black earth” in two years. Air access is important, but often the slots in the sides of the composter are enough for it, only occasionally it is stirred. I do not make either a lid or a bottom. Rain shed - it's okay! Dried up for a while - it doesn't matter either.
Want less odors and a more “scientific” composition? Use mowed grass to dispose of food waste and occasionally cover with earth. If you really want to speed up the process, you can spill it with a “bio-solution” from the store or with diluted urea. Why hurry, though? It is simpler and more logical to simply make two composters: one fills up in a year, the second “reaches”. "
May 17, 2018 azarova
Everyone knows the truth - plants develop and bear fruit best of all on fertile soil. But where to get it, if plants are planted on the site from year to year, which absorb useful substances from the ground. Many chemicals have been created to nourish the soil. But do not forget that this is chemistry, and everything that you add to the soil will also go to the crop. But there is an alternative - do it yourself compost.
What is compost and how to make it yourself
"What is compost and how to make it?" - this question is often asked by novice summer residents. Compost is an organic fertilizer obtained by decomposing a variety of raw materials of plant or animal origin.
You can make compost yourself at your summer cottage. There are two options for making natural fertilizers for the garden and vegetable garden.
- Compost heap. This is the most common way to get compost, it is also cheap and easy. You will need to make a frame in such a way that air and moisture get inside. The best material for making is wire mesh. The preparation of compost from the beginning of laying and until full maturation takes place over a period of time from six months to 9 months.
Compost pile at home
- In a special box for obtaining organic fertilizers. You can buy it in the shop departments "Garden-Ogorod". Such a device is protected from the ingress of insects. Inside the box is a drum that turns the substance over. In addition, in the middle of the container there is a hose for humidifying the waste.
Composting methods?
Experienced gardeners recommend to cook organics with your own hands. The options that give the most effective results are a compost heap or a compost pit. In these cases, the decomposition of waste occurs best of all, their rotting, because the temperature and humidity inside the layers are practically unchanged. The maturation time of organic matter directly depends on the volume of filling: the most filled pits and the largest in size become ready for use more quickly.
The most acceptable are compost heaps with the following parameters:
- width - 1.5 m;
- length - 2 m;
- depth - about a meter.
You can double the size and make two compartments: one for storing the finished compost, the second for laying a new one.
Placement of the compost heap is also possible directly on the ground. She will also be well ventilated in natural conditions. Excessive moisture must be avoided. Putting waste in a heap, you should not get carried away, the optimal sizes for it:
- base perimeter - 1x1 m;
- in height - 1 m 20 cm.
Compost bin
Essential ingredients for a normal composting process:
- oxygen;
- water;
- nitrogen.
In the presence of these factors, beneficial bacteria begin to act, which participate in the course of decomposition, and thus the composting takes place.
How to start preparing compost?
Before starting composting, you need to prepare a shallow pit (the depth is approximately the same as the bayonet of a shovel). The lowest layer in the hole should be small twigs cut from fruit bushes or trees. This layer acts as a drainage layer, allowing excess fluid to drain downward.
If you already have ready-made compost, then a small part of it should be placed on the branches. This will speed up the decomposition process, beneficial bacteria from the finished humus will enter new layers. For all subsequent layers, use food plant waste or grass, leaves from the site. They are evenly distributed on the surface, trying to tamp, and watered with water. Sprinkle with earth on top.
To prevent the pile from disintegrating and being carried by the wind, it is worth fencing it with boards or wire mesh with large cells. From above it is covered with a special covering material (spunbond), in extreme cases, straw is used. So we got a ready-made composter with our own hands.
Making compost for the garden
What are the components of compost
Compost is a natural nutrient that helps to restore the structure of the soil and increase its fertility. But first you need to know how to properly compost. T It is required to create certain conditions for the composting to take place normally:
- Creation of an optimal moist environment inside the compost heap. It should approach the reading from 45 to 70%. But if it is not possible to measure moisture readings, then this is done "by eye" - the normal moisture of the substance resembles a squeezed sponge. The temperature indicator is also important - within 28-35 degrees. Overdried waste will not decompose, and too wet will start to rot. In hot and dry weather conditions, the compost needs to be watered. If it rains constantly, then you should certainly turn the contents of the pit over. Overheating of the substrate over 60 degrees is unacceptable, because at such a temperature regime all beneficial bacteria die.
- A prerequisite is oxygen access to all layers of the compost heap. To do this, it must be shoveled constantly (about 2 times a month), and the lower layers must be lifted up, the side layers must be moved to the center.
- The presence of bacteria and earthworms in the compost pit will have a positive effect on the composting process of biomaterials. They are involved in the decomposition of waste.
Observing all the conditions, you can make compost in the country with your own hands quickly and easily.
What components can be used for composting
We learned how to make compost, now we need to figure out which ingredients are suitable for this. Symbolically, all components can be attributed to two types:
Components with an increased level of nitrogen, in another way they are called green mass. These include:
- cultivated herbs;
- massive parts of vegetable and fruit and berry plants;
Composting greens
- food waste of plant origin;
- bird droppings, animal manure.
Can plants be grown without fertilizers? Probably, this is possible, but what will be the result of such agrotechnical actions is not difficult to predict. In other words, far from perfect. Therefore, we will not "reinvent the wheel", but we will teach you how to prepare compost or humus.
Most summer residents are used to composting themselves. This allows you to save money and time, and also frees you from a lot of unnecessary worries.
Why do you need compost
Humus is one of the best fertilizers, when applied to the soil, it is possible to fill it with a large number of microelements. Although its price is low, thanks to the practicality of the material, it is possible to achieve the correct structuring of the soil. For example, moisture saving is increased and the loosening necessary for plants is created.
Tip: If you scatter humus over the soil surface, you will create the best organic mulch that conserves moisture and suppresses the growth of most types of weeds on the site.
In addition to the beneficial process associated with composting, you also make a significant contribution to the protection of the environment. It is difficult to find a mineral fertilizer that can compare with high-quality humus, besides, a well-formed pit, where organic components are processed, becomes a real incubator for beneficial microorganisms and bacteria.
Advice: ready-made country houses from block containers will allow you to quickly settle in a suburban area.
By composting, you can reduce the physical labor on the site. Now there is no need to remove garbage from the territory, since almost everything can be placed in a special pit.
Garden compost - what is it
This name was given to a product that is obtained from organic waste under the influence of the environment, as well as a large number of various microorganisms and insects. It is used for structuring the soil, in the form of fertilization and mulching.
Do not know what to do with fallen leaves in the country, branches and bark of trees, as well as their stems of plants?
Then, to get high-quality and environmentally friendly compost without toxic compounds, do the following:
- put them in a specially prepared hole in a certain order or just on a pile;
- provide adequate conditions for rotting and recycling.
Of course, there is a certain drawback in the method - the decomposition time of organic residues is quite long, sometimes several years. However, as a result, you will have a really high-quality product, and not a store-bought one made on the basis of incomprehensible components.
Compost pit
Before moving on to the main phase, let's make a compost bin or pit. In the first case, you will have to make a box according to certain dimensions and requirements.
The following suggested instruction will help you with this:
- Prepare wooden planks or planks that have not previously had contact with toxic materials and are not rotten... Otherwise, you can poison the product, irreversibly spoiling its quality, or your structure will simply collapse at some point.
Advice: take unedged pine boards for the box, then such a container will last a very long time, and its cost will be minimal.
- It's time to choose a place for compost to start building... It can be a hill or a flat area, there is not much difference if the groundwater is not close to the surface and the area is not rainy.
Tip: Try to place the container under the compost just above the ground to prevent it from being washed away.
- Make a box with your own hands, reminiscent of a standard vegetable box, only of much larger dimensions... At the same time, one should not forget to observe the gaps between the planks to ensure ventilation of the compost, so that internal biological processes take place correctly.
- Install supports at the construction site, to which you attach 3 finished structure walls... The last side should be removable, so it will be more convenient to get humus for work.
- Place old linoleum or something similar on the bottom of the box.
Advice: if you have difficulties with, renting a diesel generator for a summer cottage will help you.
Composting methods
Experts use the fast and slow method. They also received another name - hot and cold.
| Fast (hot) |
Cooking in this way takes several months. It is better to start using the material from the lower layers. |