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Do-it-yourself bunk bed from an array of drawings. DIY bunk beds: convenient, simple, economical

Bunk beds are popular for many reasons. They help to save space in small apartments, are convenient to use, and children like them very much. You can buy such a bed in the store, but it is better and cheaper to make it yourself.

Types of bunk beds

The type and size of beds depends on the purpose, the age of the children, their preferences and other factors. Berths may vary in width. It does not depend on the age of the child, since usually the baby sleeps downstairs, and his older brother or sister is on the upper tier.

A bunk bed with one sleeping place is used if there is one child in the room, but there is not much space in it. In this case, the baby sleeps upstairs, and below there is a space for games, a wardrobe or a desk with shelves.

If the lower tier is double, two same-sex children can sleep on it. Toddlers are placed on the lower tier, and an older child is placed on the upper tier.

At what age can a child be put up

A child 1–1.5 years old can be placed on the lower berth, but it must be protected by a high side so that the baby does not fall in a dream and is not frightened.

In order for the child not to fall during the ascent or descent to the second tier, it is necessary to provide the staircase with a handrail, and stick anti-slip stickers on the steps. The berth must also be protected by high sides.

Bunk beds come in a variety of designs.

  1. Two-section with two tiers. If you remove the upper berth, the structure turns into an ordinary bed.
  2. Whole bunk. At their cost, such designs are practically no different from collapsible ones.
  3. Loft bed with built-in wardrobe, table or shelves. Usually there is a sleeping place on the upper tier, and all the necessary details below.
  4. An attic bed, which has a free access area below. There is a staircase on the side.
  5. Bed with a sliding tier. This design has a height of 60 to 120 cm. The lower tier with a berth can be pulled out only if necessary.

Some models of children's bunk beds are made in lengths of 150–170 cm. Sometimes this is not very convenient, as parents often put their babies in bed and lie down next to them. For greater savings, it is better to make a bed with a length of about 180 cm.

The loft bed cannot be called a full-fledged bunk model, it has only one berth. At the same time, children like this design very much, it gives scope for their imagination and additional space for games.

Unusual options for bunk beds in the photo

What to make a bed out of: the pros and cons of different materials

Metal is the most durable material for making beds. The finished products have a light and aesthetic appearance, they can withstand a lot of weight. The disadvantages of metal structures are the high cost and the need to work with a welding machine.

Solid wood is an expensive and difficult material to process, but beds from it are beautiful, durable and reliable.

The most common beds are from edged or planed boards. For manufacturing, it is necessary to purchase a well-dried material, otherwise the structure can "lead" and it is deformed. With the correct drawing, such a bed can withstand an adult.

MDF beds are an inexpensive option. The product is durable and beautiful. During processing, the MDF board does not generate dust and does not form chips. It is better to use such a structure only in children's rooms, since it can break under heavy loads.

Chipboard contains formaldehyde, therefore, it is not recommended to use it for making a bed without an airtight coating. This material will not be suitable for the main structure, as it will not be able to support a lot of weight. It is better to make backs, decorative panels or drawers for things and toys from chipboard.

Furniture board is a reliable and durable material. This is a slab that is glued together from various pieces of natural wood. It is great for making a bunk bed. It should be borne in mind that the plate has an internal stress, which must be taken into account during operation.

The type of bed depends on the decision of which material to choose, how many kilograms it can withstand and how long it will last.

Suitable ladder and sides

It is equally important to pay attention to the stairs and sides when making a bunk bed, because it is they who ensure the safety of the child.

  1. Flat vertical staircase. Usually it is mounted on the Swedish wall and serves as a narrow protective side for the lower tier. The design has no railings, so it is not entirely safe for the baby. This option is suitable for children from 5-6 years old.
  2. A flat, inclined or forward-curved staircase. It can be in front of the front wall or on the side of the bed. This design, equipped with a safe handrail, is very child-friendly.
  3. Ladder with steps in the form of drawers. The design is comfortable and roomy, but the minimum length of such a bed is 240 cm, so it can take up almost the entire wall in a small room.

The main plus of the sides is to ensure the safety of the baby. Their optimal height is from 30 to 60 cm. Even if your child has grown, such fences will still serve as protection against falling during sleep.

Bumpers in bunk beds can be high or low, depending on the preferences of children, their age and other interior features.

How to assemble a ladder and boxes for a crib - video

Making a bed with your own hands: step by step instructions

There are a huge number of beds of various modifications. The choice of the option for self-production depends on the capabilities of the master and the preferences of the little owners.

Loft bed: drawings and manufacturing process

A bunk bed can not only consist of sleeping places, but also serve as a play or study area for a child.

For manufacturing you need tools:

  • electric screwdriver;
  • joiner's glue;
  • dowels;
  • sander or sandpaper;
  • wood primer, varnish or paint;
  • metal corners.

Make the elements of the bed from the materials in advance:

  • vertical racks - 4 pcs. size 50x100x1650 mm;
  • side boards for the supporting frame - 2 pcs. 50x150x950 mm;
  • transverse boards for bed ends - 4 pcs. 50x100x950 mm;
  • elements for fencing - 4 pcs. 50x100x1900 mm;
  • drawers (side bearing frames) - 2 pcs. 50x150x1900 mm;
  • bars that will be attached to the drawers inside the bed for mounting lamellas - 2 pcs. 50x50x1900 mm;
  • bars for steps with cut and rounded edges at 45 ° - 6 pcs. 25x50x200 mm;
  • boards for steps - 6 pcs. 50x100x450 mm;
  • element of the vertical post, which is located near the stairs - 1 pc. 50x100x1050 mm;
  • side ladder boards (cut at both ends at an angle of 45 °) - 2 pcs. 50x150x1000 mm;
  • landing boards - 12 pcs. 50x100x550 mm;
  • end boards for the platform - 2 pcs. 50x100x500 mm;
  • boards for installation under the platform - 2 pcs. 50x100x950 mm;
  • horizontal boards for supporting the platform - 2 pcs. 50x100x800 mm;
  • lamellas for laying the mattress - 13 pcs. 120x25x1000 mm.

Assembly stages.

  1. Putting together the left end side of the bed. We connect the transverse boards with the uprights with dowels, which we attach with glue into the pre-made holes. For strength, we also fix it with self-tapping screws, deepening them a few mm into the tree. We will mount a ladder to this side.
  2. Use the same method to assemble the right side of the bed. It will also serve as a protective fence.
  3. We glue the bars with dividing parts on the tsars, fix them with self-tapping screws. Then we connect the end elements with drawers and boards for the fence. We assemble all the elements with the help of bolts (self-tapping screws and dowels can be used), which must be fixed with carpentry glue. As a result, the berth turns out to be 1.9x1.0 m. Then we put the slats on the timber.
  4. We assemble the support frame for the platform. It must be very strong to support a lot of weight.
  5. We attach the staircase frame to the frame, then mount the entire system to the main frame. To do this, we use iron corners, which we fasten from the inner invisible side of the structure.
  6. We cover the stairs with boards. First, we attach them to glue, then additionally fix them with self-tapping screws. We sink the hats a few mm into the wood. All depressions can then be repaired with sawdust mixed with glue, or with a special putty for wood.
  7. We collect the ladder for the bed. We mark all the points of attachment of the bars, with the help of the building level we mark the points of installation. The steps should be exactly parallel to the floor. We fasten the bars opposite each other without distortions.
  8. We put the boards of the steps on the bolted bars and fasten them with self-tapping screws. For the convenience of work, you must first screw one board on top of the span, and one on the bottom. So the structure will gain greater strength. We fasten the finished staircase to the podium using metal corners. We check the strength of the bed and stairs.
  9. We close up all the grooves and grind the structure. We cover all the elements with a wood primer, then apply varnish or paint. After they are completely dry, we put the mattress. Below you can make a play area or put a desk.

Bed with a wardrobe with your own hands - video

Retractable (roll-out) structure made of laminated chipboard

In small children's rooms, it is better to install a pull-out bunk bed. It is an easy-to-manufacture construction that does not require special skills and experience.

To build it you will need:

  • laminated chipboard sheet (19 mm), from which we will make the main structural details;
  • furniture board (22 mm). From it we will cut out the cover and the lower side of the podium.

Making a frame according to a drawing

In order to independently assemble such a bed, it is necessary to cut the sheets into separate parts, and then use corners and screws with bolts to assemble the structure.

We equip the lower tier with wheels so that the bed can move freely if necessary. For the lathing we use wooden boards 10-15 cm thick. For a bed 1.8-2 m long, a minimum of 5-7 strips must be used.

Solid wood bunk bed

A wooden bunk bed is the most comfortable classic model, which is suitable for children and adults.

Name of parts Size (mm) Quantity (pcs.)
Racks (bars) vertical38x76x17304
Outer pillars for pillars38x76x17304
Side frame boards (drawers)38x140x20304
Planks for laying frame boards, which are attached to the drawer side inside32x44x18504
Panels for assembling the ends of the structure (headboard and footboard)20x140x9144
Central boards for assembling the headboard and footboard20x90x9144
Railings20x90x15101
Steps20x64x4823
Fencing strips20x90x18002
Cross slats to create a berth20x76x100024
Side planks for supporting frame20x140x9144

The tools you will need:

  • electric drill;
  • plane;
  • level;
  • roulette;
  • chisel;
  • screwdriver;
  • hacksaw;
  • electric jigsaw;
  • Sander;
  • a hammer;
  • glue for wooden parts;
  • special impregnations for wood;
  • waterproof varnish;
  • hardware (screws, screws);
  • mattresses of the required size - 2 pcs.

Stages of assembling the bed.

  1. We make 4 side parts (drawers) to create the upper and lower floors of the structure. They will hold the slats.
  2. We assemble the ends of the bed (headboard and footboard) using racks and crossbars. We make the supports from a bar and parts that will close the holes of the fasteners of the structural parts and create a groove for laying the drawers in it.
  3. We collect the headboard and foot of the structure. At the top of the headboard, we attach 3 overlays to the timber, between which we will mount the elements of the protective fence. We attach one solid pad to the legs.
  4. We assemble the details of the bed according to the specified dimensions.
  5. We collect the elements of the fence and berth on the second tier. The rack shows how the steps are located. There are three of them in total. When we attach the bottom step to the foot post, make sure that the screws do not rest against the frame fixing screws.
  6. We connect the side parts of the structure with drawers. To do this, we install them in the gaps that we left between the overlays. We fasten each side with four self-tapping screws.
  7. We put the structure on the floor and begin to mount the handrail, ladder, steps and a crossbar for the fence. We twist all the elements first together, and then with the bed racks using self-tapping screws. After we have assembled a one-piece structure, we lay the lamellas between the bars on the tsars.
  8. We grind the finished structure, if necessary, so that there are no clues. We process with special impregnations and cover with varnish or stain. We let the structures dry completely, put the mattresses.

For safety, it is necessary to fix the bed on the wall so that children do not accidentally overturn the entire structure.

The easiest option: a bed for a summer residence - video

Bunk bed made of metal corners and pipes

Metal bunk beds have long been used in everyday life. Strength and durability are the main criteria for choosing such a design. If earlier they stood only in army barracks, barracks or dormitories, now designers began to pay attention to them.

Such a bed is not just a crude structure of iron with two berths. If you add it with forged elements, then it can become a real decoration of a children's room.

The standard bed has dimensions 1.9x0.9 m. The frame is made in the form of a metal frame with sleeping places made of strong mesh. The bed should be about 10 cm wider than the mattress and 8 cm long.

Required materials and tools:

  • metal profile or corners 45x50 mm;
  • a special net for sleeping places of the required size;
  • channels - 32x65 mm;
  • pipes with a diameter of 25 mm;
  • wrenches for bolts and nuts;
  • grinder with circles for metal;
  • hacksaw;
  • welding machine;
  • electric screwdriver;
  • level and corner.

Assembly stages.

  1. We make a frame for sleeping places from the corners. We cut the metal corners with a grinder or a hacksaw into parts of the required sizes.
  2. At the ends of the corners, for reliable fastening, we cut out special sections and connect them with the help of channels. We weld all the elements, check the evenness of the corners and the parallelism of the frame slats.
  3. We cut out the vertical posts from the pipes and weld the frames to them. All actions are performed exactly according to the drawing. The main thing is to correctly and evenly weld all the elements, the strength and reliability of the entire structure depends on this.
  4. We weld the sides of the bed on the second tier to the uprights.
  5. From metal pipes, we cut off the elements of the crossbeams for sleeping places and weld them at the same distance from each other. The smaller it is, the stronger the whole structure.
  6. In the drawing, the staircase is located at two ends, so we weld the crossbeams in the necessary places. You can weld the ladder separately to the desired height, and then install it at the headboard or foot of the bed.
  7. After we have finished welding, it is necessary to sand the seams. This is best done with a grinder. Then we clean the metal structure from rust, treat it with a special primer and paint it.

A bed of two tiers: from a diagram to a finished product - video

If the room does not have enough space to install two beds, a bunk or pull-out design will come to the rescue. It is not difficult to develop a project and make it according to your own drawing. A hand-made thing will look perfect in the interior, save space and provide convenience to all family members.

Arranging the bedroom with a non-standard bed allows the owners to make the most of the free space and get a stylish room. At the same time, it is not at all necessary to buy an original bed with 2 tiers, supplemented by auxiliary compartments. You can make it yourself. For work, you can use various materials: wood, derived raw materials, iron.

Below we described how to make a bunk bed with your own hands is easy and simple. An accurate list of the tools you need, step-by-step instructions and assembly diagrams will help you make a homemade bed for your bedroom or your child's bedroom. If desired, the proposed drawings can be modified for the assembly of unique models with dimensional parameters or non-standard shapes. The main thing is to take into account the detailing of products and monitor the reliability of the connection of individual structural elements.

Advantages and disadvantages of a bunk bed

The main advantage of 2-tier beds is their convenience and compactness. Installing this model provides less use of space than installing two separate sleeping beds. Also, these models will help significantly save money when arranging a bedroom for two children. We must not forget about the variety of models, which can be not just a sleeping bed, but also be complemented by other furniture. For example, there are models that include a table, wardrobe and other important elements for a comfortable stay.

As for the cons, bunk beds are quite difficult to rearrange if necessary. For a neat change of location, you will have to partially disassemble the product (this is especially true for multifunctional modules). They are also of little use for children under 6 years of age. Even in the presence of a solid ladder, a high side, it is impossible to guarantee the complete safety of the baby when using such furniture.

Types and models of bunk beds

There are numerous models of bunk beds that differ in their design. The main criteria for differences include:

  1. The parameters of sleeping places and their number.
  2. The presence of auxiliary departments or furniture elements.
  3. Features of the location of the stairs and its parameters.

In addition, different materials are used in the production of bunk beds. They can be made exclusively of wood or include a metal frame and metal accessories. The design of the products is also varied. They can have a classic design, have a modern design. You can conditionally divide bunk beds into the following groups:

  • for adults (for example, for equipping bedrooms, working dormitories or a room for two teenagers);
  • for children (with appropriate design and increased safety);
  • for children and adults / adolescents (specialized models are suitable for equipping a common room).

Traditional model

A standard bunk bed consists of two identical sleeping beds located one above the other. They have a common framework. An important advantage of the "standard" model is the ability to install it in any small room. Such furniture has a small size and a clear rectangular shape. The ladder on it can be located both in front and at the end. To ensure safety, the upper sleeping bed is supplemented with a side. Also, a similar side can be located near the lower bed.

Models are made in a simple design, but can also be decorated with painting, plastic inserts. Traditional themed beds in two tiers are ideal for setting up a same-sex children's bedroom. The classic model made of wood will be a good addition to a boy's and a girl's bedroom.

Option of a bed with a sofa

An important difference between such bunk beds is the location at the bottom of a compact sofa. Even when folded, it can slightly exceed the width of the upper bed. But when the sofa is unfolded, the owners will receive not one, but two berths at once downstairs. This option is ideal for arranging a room for children of different ages. So, a child can sleep at the top, and a teenager at the bottom.

Non-standard furniture is also suitable for equipping a nursery where one child lives. The sofa can be used as a sitting and reading area. Also, friends of the child who have come to visit with an overnight stay will be able to sleep on it. The advantage of such models over traditional ones is a more modern presentation and maximum practicality (a compartment for storing bed linen can be located inside the sofa). True, they cost an order of magnitude, more expensive than standard products.

Bed model with drawers

A special subspecies of bunk beds are models supplemented by numerous drawers. Auxiliary compartments are located under the lower sleeping bed, they are mounted in the steps themselves (instead of risers, there will be ends of the boxes). This option is ideal for arranging a room for two children, where there is no way to place a spacious wardrobe. The presence of numerous compartments for toys, clothes, bed will help to compactly store personal belongings of babies and always keep a small bedroom in order.

Choosing a bunk bed with drawers in the stairs, you should give preference to a model with holes cut out to open the compartments. The presence of protruding handles will become a big problem when climbing stairs and will significantly reduce the safety of the furniture.

Model with a double bed on the first tier

The bed, which includes a single bed upstairs and a double bed downstairs, is great for equipping a parent-child shared bedroom. It is also suitable for installation in a room where a child and a teenager live. The capacious lower bed is usually complemented by internal compartments for storing things and bedding. Therefore, the need to equip the room with a wardrobe or chest of drawers disappears. But since such a model has a larger frame at the bottom than a traditional bed, it will not be able to fit well into a small room. True, it is suitable for installation in the hall of a one-room apartment (for example, a Khrushchev apartment), where the parents and the child live. The only drawback of such an arrangement can only be the discomfort of receiving guests.

Bed for a large family

The custom bunk bed for a large family is an improved traditional model. It includes 2 sleeping beds at the bottom and 1-2 sleeping places at the top. This option is suitable for installation in a room where 3-4 children live. It can also be a great addition to a shared bedroom for adults and children in a two-room apartment.

An important feature of such models is a reinforced frame designed for heavy loads. The sleeping beds themselves on the same level can be located with their ends to each other or separated by a small cabinet. For this reason, two-tier models for large families are equipped with two ladders at once. Quite often, they are purchased as a separate piece of furniture, less often they are assembled as stationary furniture in the room itself. The second option is attractive due to its economy, but at the same time it will not allow such a bed to be rearranged. In case of repair or change of furnishings, the built bed will need to be completely disassembled.

A very popular loft bed model suitable for installation in the bedroom of an adult or teenager. It is a structure in the upper part of which there is a single or double bed. Thanks to the raising of the bed up, the space below is completely free and suitable for installing a desk, chest of drawers, sofa.

The most practical are the models equipped with a wardrobe and chest of drawers, a desk. With them, the rest of the room remains free and is suitable for equipping a comfortable recreation area, reading. Quite often, a loft bed is equipped with wardrobes from one or two ends. This ensures the comfort of storing personal items. True, this model is more suitable for installation in medium or large rooms. For small bedrooms, it is recommended to select a compact module that includes a single bed on top and a desk at the bottom.

An important difference between children's loft beds and adults is their smaller size. A single bed will be enough for a comfortable sleep of the child. In the lower part, in almost all models, there is a desk, at which the child can be creative or do homework. The end of the models is often complemented by a wardrobe with different compartments: a bar, drawers and shelves.

There are also loft beds with two sleeping beds. But unlike traditional models, berths are located perpendicular to each other. Corner beds of this type are used to equip children's bedrooms where two children live. There may be a small desk or cabinets and dressers next to the lower bed. There are also models of loft beds, the lower part of which consists entirely of a spacious wardrobe.

Variety of materials: their pros and cons

When choosing or assembling a bunk bed with your own hands, it is imperative to take into account the characteristics of its materials. For such furniture can be used:

  • Chipboard (or chipboard);

Inexpensive material significantly reduces the cost of the model. But it has minimal resistance to damage and a short service life. For the manufacture of chipboard, glue is used, which is harmful to human health.

It is often used for the manufacture of sides, sides and cabinets adjacent to the bed. Has a long service life. Unlike chipboard, it is completely safe for humans.

  • solid wood;

Wooden beds have a long service life. They are durable, reliable, useful to humans. A good wooden bed will help create a special microclimate in the bedroom. True, such models have a high price.

  • metal.

They have a simple style and fit perfectly into a room with any style. Strong, reliable and durable. Such models represent a metal structure, complemented by wooden or metal bases and mattresses.

Safety: what should be the stairs and the sides of the bed

When choosing a bunk bed, you should pay special attention to its design. The ladder must be solid and include comfortable steps. In models equipped with mid-flight ladders, the depth and width of the steps must be sufficient to safely lift the child. These parameters are determined individually, taking into account the size of the child's leg (when climbing stairs, the foot should rest at least 3/4 on the step). The height of the steps should also be comfortable to climb. Models equipped with a simple ladder with thin rungs are more suitable for a teenager. As for the sides, their height should be at least 20 centimeters. Reliable fixing of the side is one of the main requirements for the safety of a bunk bed. The edges of the side must not have sharp corners.

Step-by-step instructions for making a bed with your own hands

Assembling a bunk bed with your own hands is a simple task. But to obtain safe and reliable furniture, you need to carefully consider the plan for its assembly, draw up a detailed drawing of the product. Below we reviewed master classes on self-assembly of beds with two floors of different types. The proposed schemes will help you to easily make furniture without mistakes. When changing schemes, it is recommended to maintain the proportions of products and take into account the parameters of the materials used (if they differ from those proposed). This will eliminate the danger of assembling low-quality furniture that will not withstand the load and can be damaged during operation.

Loft bed: diagram, tools and manufacturing process

It is necessary to make a bed with an "attic" immediately in the room where it will be used: the subsequent transfer of furniture will be impossible. For work, you will need a beam with a section of 10x10 cm, boards and slats with a thickness of more than 3 cm, a screwdriver, wood screws, a pencil, a level, a ruler, a saw. To equip sleeping places, we recommend buying a ready-made slatted bottom with suitable dimensions. Using plywood to organize it will not allow you to get reliable and safe furniture. The structure should be assembled step by step according to the following scheme:

  1. Assembly of U-shaped sidewalls from a bar. Additional fixation of the lintel from the board in the lower part (so that the "legs" of the bed are securely fixed).
  2. Assembling the top of the furniture: assembling a rectangle of boards turned upside down. Fastening from the inside of the assembled plank rectangle of 2 slats to prepare the base for the slatted bottom.
  3. Fastening the U-shaped sides to the assembled top of the bed.
  4. Installation of the side to the base of the sleeping bed.
  5. Assembly of a ladder from two beams and rails located between them.
  6. Painting products with harmless paints, varnishing.
  7. Installation of a slatted bottom, installation of a ladder, laying of a mattress.

The bunk bed with a roll-out mechanism has two sleeping beds located one above the other. But the distance from the base of the top to the base of the bottom is kept to a minimum. Therefore, for the accuracy of the assembly, we recommend drawing up a detailed project, taking into account the optimal distance from the bottom to the top, at which, during the roll-out of the additional bed, the upper one will not cling. For work, you will need: a beam of 10x10 cm, a board and slats with a thickness of over 3 cm, a roll-out mechanism, 2 rack-and-pinion bottoms, a screwdriver, a screwdriver, wood screws. The assembly of the crib is carried out according to the following instructions:

  1. A small frame is assembled from a bar, boards and slats (they act as the basis for a slatted bottom). The boards will determine the location of the upper sleeping bed.
  2. The lower sleeping bed is being assembled from boards. Rails are screwed inside the assembled rectangle under the rack bottom.
  3. The withdrawable mechanism is being installed. Fastening the bottom stock to the mechanism.

A bed with a roll-out second bed does not require a fixed ladder. It can be easily replaced by an attached model.

A 2-tier bed made of solid wood is assembled from the following materials: a beam with a section of 10x10 cm, boards and slats with a thickness of more than 3 cm, 2 rack-and-pinion bottoms. The tools necessary for work include a screwdriver, a saw, a level, a pencil, wood screws. The assembly is carried out as follows:

  1. Assembling the bases of sleeping boxes according to the size of the acquired slatted bottom from 4 boards (for each bed). Screwing along the perimeter of the assembled bases inside the rack support to install the rack bottom.
  2. Fastening the assembled bases to 4 support beams. Please note that the distance between the sleeping beds must be at least 1 m (in addition, a mattress will be laid at the bottom).
  3. Production of a side board from slats and boards, its attachment to the top of the bed.
  4. Screwing vertical slats (vertical parts of the stairs) to the baseboards of the boxes.
  5. Screwing steps made of rails to the vertical elements of the staircase.
  6. Painting the bed, varnishing the wood.

Bunk bed made of metal pipes and corners

An iron bed with high-quality painting and equipped with plastic corner caps can be used for both an adult and a teenage room. For the manufacture of furniture, the following materials and tools will be required: metal corners 45x50 mm, metal square pipes with a side of 25-30 mm, a net for beds, a grinder with circles for metal, a welding machine, a hacksaw for metal, a curved U-shaped pipe (for a side) ... Furniture should be made according to the following scheme:

  1. Welding the bases of sleeping beds from the corners. Cutting out parts of the corners for their tight abutment to square pipes during the subsequent welding of the elements.
  2. Welding of bed bases to 4 tubes to create a strong frame.
  3. Welding auxiliary legs to the lower bed.
  4. Welding the mesh and welding the rim.
  5. Separate welding from square pipes of the ladder and its subsequent welding to the bed.

Bed with wardrobe

Using a drawing of a traditional bed with two floors as a basis, you can create custom models with wardrobes and dressers. To make the simplest bed with a small compartment for clothes, you will need the following materials: timber 10x10 cm, boards and slats more than 3 cm thick, MDF, furniture fittings (hinges, handles, microlift, shelf mounts), screwdriver, wood screws, saw, level, pencil, 2 slatted bottoms. The model should be made according to this master class:

  1. Assembly of 8 boards (determine the bases of the sleeping boxes) and 4 frame beams.
  2. Installation inside along the perimeter of the plank rectangles of the base rails under the rack bottom.
  3. Installation from boards of a side, from rails - stairs.
  4. Assembling the top, bottom, sides and back wall of the future MDF cabinet (in height, it should reach the 2nd floor of the bed).
  5. Screwing the base of the cabinet to one of the ends of the future bed.
  6. Fastening of door leafs, installation of internal filling, installation of furniture handles.

When a second child appears in the family, which happens often, the question of compact sleeping places for children inevitably arises. The most rational and aesthetic solution is to buy a bunk bed for children. But not everyone can afford it, but making it with your own hands is much cheaper and easier.

Pros and cons of a children's bunk bed

Such a double bed is sometimes the only viable option for many families, because the advantages outweigh the disadvantages.

The main advantages of a bunk bed for children:

  • it takes up little space in the room (in urban apartments, where every square meter is important, this is a significant plus);
  • a bunk bed looks beautiful if it is made with skillful hands with due diligence;
  • it can simultaneously perform the functions of a sports corner and a workplace for a child;
  • making a bunk bed with your own hands is possible with minimal skills in carpentry.

But such furniture also has disadvantages:

  • the whole structure, due to its high height, sometimes looks too cumbersome;
  • a purchased bunk bed in cabinet furniture stores is expensive (from 7 thousand rubles and more);
  • a child may fall from the second floor if the sides are not sufficiently secured;
  • the bed may be unstable, it will probably have to be additionally fixed to the wall.

But all these disadvantages are not at all scary if you assemble the product yourself and follow all the recommendations of specialists.

Photo gallery: bunk beds for children

The design with a ladder at the end will be convenient for both children to use For a small room, a bed with a pull-out berth will do. A bed with a sports corner function will please boys. Symmetrical furniture will not leave anyone deprived. Sleeping places can be located perpendicular to each other. a whole functional complex can be made Suitable for a bunk bed and teenagers A bunk bed can have different shelves and drawers in its design The classic version is equipped with a regular staircase

How to make a bunk bed with your own hands (option 1)

And you need to start, as in any serious business, with thinking through the design and drawing up a project.

Construction description, drawing

Most often, the product is made from wooden blocks and plywood. This is the simplest and cheapest option. Remember that the bed must be wide enough to accommodate the standard mattress size. The optimal size is 80 cm.

As for the height of each tier, these parameters are taken individually. The first floor should be no lower than the tallest toy box, which will then slide under the bed. Usually it is 35 cm.

The second tier will rise to a height of 1.3 m from the floor or more. If you do it below, there may be some inconveniences. For example, an adult cannot sit up straight.

The total height of the structure should be approximately 2 m. It is more bad - the older (younger) brother (or sister), getting up in the morning, will poke his head at the ceiling. The length of the bed is taken equal to the maximum average height of an adult. Ideally, this size is between 1.75 m and 2 m.

The optimal width is 610 mm for the stairs. It will be convenient to use for children and adults.

As for the distance between the steps, it should be at least 200 mm, and the maximum - 260 mm. Otherwise, there will be difficulties for a child stepping from one step to another.

Material selection and quantity calculation

For a bunk bed, bars are ideal, since such material is inexpensive.

Selecting bars, you need to immediately look at their quality. You should buy only those that have as few knots as possible, a smooth surface and good straightness to the eye. Pine or spruce is best. Such material is inexpensive, durable and easy to process.

Let the height of the bed be 2 m, width 0.82 m, and length 1.88 m. Let's take the height of the first tier 35 cm from the floor, and the second one - 1.5 m from the floor. The width of the steps is set equal to 63 cm.

So, for the main frame, you will need strong bars with a section of 40x60 mm. Remember that there will be 4 vertical posts of 2 m each and 4 horizontal beams of 1.88 m each, and you will also need 4 end horizontal beams of 0.82 m each.This lumber is sold in beams 2 m long. ... As a result, you will need the total number of the indicated bars N = 4 + 4 + 2 = 10 pieces.

In addition, you will need sides made of a bar with a smaller section - 30x40 mm. Steps can be made from the same lumber.


A homemade bed can always be styled to match the overall design of the room.

Now you can calculate the bars with a section of 30x40 mm. The staircase will be located on the left side of the facade of the structure. In this case, the right ends of the steps with their ends will abut against a separate vertical rack and will be fixed on it. And the left overlapping ends will be fixed on the front main vertical of the bed with a section of 40x60 mm. The steps themselves will remain with a rectangular profile. Their total number is 6 pieces (since the distance between them is taken to be 250 mm, we divide the height of the second tier by this value and we get N = 1.5 / 0.25 = 6).

So, for the stairs you will need:

  • vertical right post with a section of 30x40 mm and a height of 2 m;
  • steps of the same section with a total length of L = 6x0.63 = 3.78 m.

It is easy to calculate that from each bar of a standard length of 2 m you will get 3 steps (0.63x3 = 1.89). This means that all these elements need 2 beams. In total, we use 3 bars with a section of 30x40 mm and a standard length of 2 m for the staircase.

As for the sides, these elements are not needed downstairs, on the first floor. On the second tier, you can make two sides - on the facade and from the ends. On the back of the bed, it is enough to make only one crossbar, because there will still be a wall of the room.

The two front sides are each the size of the bed (minus the width of the stairs). The same goes for the rear. And the end ones are 0.82 m long. There are 4 of them in total. It is easy to calculate that from one workpiece of 2 m you will get 2 end beams. This means that in total you will need for the boards the number of two-meter bars with a section of 30x40 mm, equal to N = 2 + 1 + 1 + 1 = 5 pieces.


The surface of the hand-made bed can be decorated as you wish

The flooring of sleeping places is made of plywood and reinforcing beams with a section of 20x20 mm. You will need an area of ​​plywood equal to the area of ​​the sleeping places. Thus, using the dimensions of the bed, you get: S = 0.82x1.88 = 1.54 m 2. This is the area of ​​one place. For the entire bed, we take a value of 3.1 m 2.

It remains to count the bars with a section of 20x20 mm. You will need 4 pieces of two-meter blanks to fix on the long horizontals of the bed. The sections reinforcing the plywood will be supported on these beams in the future. There will be enough such segments for 8 pieces for a single bed. The total length is L = 8x0.82x2 = 13.12 m. That is, 7 two-meter blanks. The total number of bars of this profile: 4 + 7 = 11 pieces.

In addition to wooden parts, it is necessary to use metal corners and self-tapping screws. This structure has 8 joints of the most powerful beams with a section of 40x60 mm. For each such element, you need to use 2 corners.

Self-tapping screws are enough for 100 grams of each of two standard sizes - 80 mm long for the main fasteners and 35 mm long for small things.

It is better to use black wood screws with a nominal diameter of 3 mm. They can be easily screwed into any tree without pre-drilling. And then the hats can be closed with special decorative "buttons".

Now you can make a final list:

  • bar with a section of 40x60 mm - 10 pieces;
  • blanks 30x40 mm - 3 beams for stairs and 5 for sides - 8 pieces;
  • plywood with a minimum thickness of 3-5 mm and an area of ​​3.1 m 2;
  • bar 20x20 mm - 11 pieces;
  • metal corners - 16 pieces;
  • self-tapping screws 80 mm long - about 0.1 kg;
  • self-tapping screws 35 mm long - about 0.1 kg.

Before starting work, it is better to decompose all materials in separate piles, combining by type and standard size.

Tools

To make a bunk bed, you will need the following locksmith and power tools:

  • screwdriver;
  • jigsaw with a set of wood saws;
  • roulette;
  • level;
  • electric drill and drill for wood with a diameter of 4 mm.

To assemble such a seemingly complex design, only a minimal set of conventional tools is required.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

All work on the collection of a bunk bed consists of several stages:

  1. Use a jigsaw to cut the long horizontal beams, 4 pieces. The total length of the bed, equal to 1.88 m, includes the size of the vertical profile. That is, you need to cut horizontal beams 1.8 m long each. Since the vertical has one of the dimensions of 0.04 m (40 mm) in cross-section, when assembling, the total length of the bed will be L = 1.8 + 0.04 + 0.04 = 1.88 m.
  2. In the next step, just assemble the verticals with long horizontal beams. To do this, first attach a two-meter workpiece to the lower cut-off crossbar along the markings and fasten it with a corner. Then do the same with the top horizontal.
  3. Attach a second vertical to the other ends of the cut beams. Then, repeating all the operations, assemble another symmetrical node, consisting of the bed racks and its horizontal beams.
  4. Having thus assembled the frame of the front and rear parts of the product, connect these sidewalls into one structure. To do this, first cut 4 pieces of 70 cm long from a bar with a section of 40x60 mm. These will be the end crossbars of the bed.
  5. Collect them with other parts of the bed. First fasten with corners in the same places where the long horizontal beams are attached. Then reinforce the entire structure with long self-tapping screws, which screw into the "body" of the bars. If necessary, pre-drill the holes for the fastener with a drill. As a result, the width of the bed will turn out to be 0.82 m. This size includes a segment of each end beam of 0.7 m and two vertical profiles of 0.06 m each (with a section of 40x60 mm).
  6. Now that the skeleton of the bed is made, you can start assembling the stairs. To get started, cut six steps (from blanks with a section of 30x40 mm) each 0.63 m long.
  7. Measure on the facade a distance of 0.63 m from the leftmost point of the bed and mark the location of the vertical ladder post. Screw the right two-meter vertical of the ladder to the horizontal front beams of the product.
  8. Attach steps in 0.25 m increments, counting from the floor. Moreover, the left side should overlap the bed rack.
  9. The right end of each step should rest against the vertical beam of the ladder. Therefore, on the right, drive the screw into the vertical profile each time, and on the left - into the profile of the step through the bed post. For fidelity, when installing steps, you can use a level by applying it on top of the mounted segments.
  10. It remains to fix the sides and cover the sleeping places. Cut the beams for a 30x40 mm bar fence. At the end ones, the length is equal to the same size of the corresponding crossbars of the bed - 70 cm. At the front sides, mark the length in place by attaching the blanks to the right bed post and to the stairs. The railing should end where the right edge of the step is. Finally, the tailgate is equal to the full length of the bed minus the two vertical profiles (1.88-2x0.04 = 1.88-0.08 = 1.8 m).
  11. Screw all railings to the overall structure on the top tier. The step between the sides is 0.15 m.
  12. Equip the flooring of the first and second berths. To do this, first screw a blank with a 20x20 mm profile from the inside to the bottom of each bed horizontal, after cutting it. The pieces supporting the plywood will rest on this part. They should be 0.66 m long. And screw onto the support beams.
  13. Cut the plywood to the size of the bed and screw it to the main, strongest bed beams.
  14. It also does not hurt to fix the flooring on the reference segments. Use small screws for this step. The bunk bed is ready.

It is also advisable to attach the entire structure to the wall of the room using the same corners. Otherwise, when the child begins to climb the steps, the product may tilt.

Usually plywood is sold in standard sheets measuring 1.2 mx 1.4 m. Cutting it is simple: first, a piece is cut to the width of the bed 0.8 m along the entire length of 1.4 m. Then it remains to cover about 0.5 m of the berth. Two rectangles of 0.4 mx 0.5 m are cut off from the remaining piece of plywood with a size of 0.4 mx 1.4 m and an open space is covered with them.

You can already use the bed, but it's better to additionally arrange it in order to avoid the feeling that something is missing.

Decoration of the structure

First you need to varnish the wood. It is better to use a matte finish for this purpose, since the glossy gives off antiquity. You can use an inexpensive stain instead of varnish. It emphasizes the structure of the tree well. The coating is applied with a simple brush.


The decor depends on the gender of the children

But in addition to painting, it would be nice to attach some kind of facade to the sides to match the color of the furniture that occupies the children's room. Any universal option will do. The dimensions of the facade should be such that all the sides are hidden behind this part. It is best if you can choose a decorative laminated chipboard with a rounding.

Do not forget that beautiful mattresses are necessary for a children's bunk bed. They are, of course, not cheap. If these mattresses are too expensive, you can purchase a simple version with a cotton filling.

How to make a bunk bed with your own hands (option 2)

The product of the second type is assembled from chipboard panels. In the end, such a design will look more beautiful, but the costs and efforts will noticeably increase.

Construction description, drawing

The backs of such a bunk bed are made from one piece. The same applies to boards and decks. Order these chipboard boards of the required size in the carpentry shop. There they will be made in the desired color and according to the required parameters, as well as decorate all the ends of the plates.

Now you need to decide on the size. Let the backs of the structure be 1.8 m high and 0.8 m wide (2 pieces each). The plate thickness is standard - 16 mm. At the bottom, it is necessary to provide supporting plastic pads, which are nailed with small nails.

Make the length of the bed equal to 1.8 m.This means that for the flooring, order two slabs of 0.8 mx 1.8 m. m in the amount of 4 pieces.

The sides will have similar dimensions. They are only needed for the upper tier. Dimensions of long front parts (2 pieces) - 0.4 mx 1.8 m.

Draw a rough sketch.

Of course, the slabs do not have to be ordered perfectly rectangular. For beauty, you can provide for different cuts, roundings. And below, if possible, there may be drawers.

As for the stairs, make it from the end. To do this, additionally order 5 steps from chipboard plates. The first is 0.8 mx 0.48 m in size, the second is 10 cm narrower. And so on: each one is reduced by 10 cm. Let the right side of the stairs be the headboard of the bed. Order the left slab with a size of 0.8 mx 1.36 m, while providing for the bevel of the upper part.

List of required materials

So, you will need:

  • chipboard plate (16 mm thick) 1.8 mx 0.8 m - 4 pieces;
  • sheets of 1.8 mx 0.2 m - 4 pieces;
  • sheets 1.8 mx 0.4 m - 2 pieces;
  • 5 slabs for steps (the first 0.8 mx 0.48 m, each subsequent one is 10 cm shorter);
  • side plate with a bevel 0.8 mx 1.36 m;
  • furniture screws for hexagon - about 50 pieces.

The latter are used to fasten the structure. They are also called Euro screws.

List of required tools

You will need a few tools:

  • roulette;
  • electric drill with a drill with a diameter of 4.5 mm;
  • Allen key for Euro screw;
  • screwdriver.

As time goes on, children grow up, cribs become cramped for them. The time comes to think about sleeping places with full dimensions, because the children will very soon turn into lanky teenagers. Putting two large beds is not an option, they will take up almost the entire space of the child's room. However, there is always a way out. For those who know how to hold a hammer and a screwdriver in their hands, we offer detailed instructions on how to make a bunk bed yourself.

General view of a bunk bed

Preparatory stage

First, we select mattresses of the required dimensions. Their standard sizes are 180x70 cm. The mattress should be comfortable, best of all orthopedic, spring. But if you wish, you can make it yourself. You will need foam rubber and thick fabric for the cover (teak, calico). It is better to take two layers of foam rubber, the first 10 cm thick, the second 15 cm. The density coefficient of the lower layer should not exceed 35 kg / m3 to make the mattress softer.

We will make a bunk bed with our own hands simple and comfortable. The product will consist of the following parts:

  • Four racks,
  • Two shelves with edging and railings,
  • Vertical staircase.

Now you need to decide where to put the bed. However, keep in mind that the width of the bed will be 5 cm wider when adding a ladder. So, the estimated dimensions of the finished product will be:

  • Length - 1904 mm,
  • Width - 744 mm,
  • The total height of the bed is 1800 mm,
  • Height to the bottom tier - 200 mm,
  • Height from floor to second tier - 1220 mm. Before making a bunk bed, check in practice if you can get up without hitting the second tier with your head.

We carry out a drawing with full detailing and indication of dimensions. Now you can go to the construction base for lumber.

Tools and materials

To make a bunk bed with our own hands, we need lightweight and durable softwood. The board and timber must be flat and well dried. If it is possible to cut the material at home, then it is better to do so. Otherwise, wood cutting can be ordered at the base. Here are the dimensions of the required parts:

Material Dimensions, mm Qty.
Bed racks
Board section 90x22 1800x90x22 2
1680x90x22 2
Board with a section of 70x22 1800x70x22 2
1680x70x22 2
Top and bottom shelves
Beam 50x40 mm 1860x50x40 6
700x50x40 8
Plywood 8 mm 1240x700x8 2
620x700x8 2
Plywood 4 mm ("ceiling" on the top shelf) 1240x700x4 2
620x700x4 2
Shelf edging
Board section 120x22 1724x120x22 4
560x120x22 4
Fencing
Board with a section of 70x22 1764x70x22 3
600x70x22 5
Stairs
Beam 70x40 1360x70x40 2
Round timber 30 500x∅30 6

To work, we need the following tools:

  • A hacksaw, simple or electric.
  • Drill with bits.
  • Electric planer.
  • Clamps.
  • Chisel, screwdriver.
  • A hammer.
  • Jigsaw.
  • Level, tape measure, ruler, pencil.
  • Lots of sandpaper.

Preparation of parts

Racks

The bedpost consists of two planks held together by four screws at right angles. To do this, we tighten both boards with a clamp. We drill the marked holes with a drill, screw in the screws, remove the clamp. In the same way, we prepare three more racks, and those that go to the headboard should be longer. When considering how to make a bunk bed with modern shapes, we round off the top of the racks. To do this, we cut them along the radius with a jigsaw, remove the chamfer from the corners of the radius, grind the surface with sandpaper.

Bed shelves

Saw them out of 8mm plywood. To make the material less deformed, we make two blanks for each berth. One sheet should measure 124x70 cm, the other 62x70 cm, so that their joint falls on the transverse beam.

Stairs

For the rungs, you can take 3 ready-made gymnastic sticks and cut each into 2 pieces of 50 cm each. The ladder racks are made of 70x40 mm timber. The top of the racks is rounded in the same way as the bed racks.

Beam for installing shelves

We cut the timber for the installation of the lower shelf:

  • Longitudinal parts 1860x50x40 mm - 6 pcs. (3 for each shelf),
  • Transverse parts 700x50x40 mm - 8 pcs. (4 beams per shelf).

We saw boards for edging and railing after the bed base is assembled. In the manufacture of bunk beds, it is not always possible to follow the exact dimensions, so it is better to adjust the decorative details to the finished frame.

Assembling the bed

Step 1. Assembling the frame of the bed shelves. To do this, we select nests in the bar, about half the thickness of the tree, to connect the longitudinal and transverse bars. We assemble the frame and check its perpendicularity. We attach plywood panels to the frame, having coated them with carpentry glue. We reinforce the connection with screws with a pitch of 200 mm. The finished shelves should be dried, then the front surface should be sanded.

Step 2. Putting the ladder together. We mark the racks and drill holes for the crossbeams using a feather drill. Hole diameter 30 mm, depth 15 mm. We insert the halves of the gymnastic sticks into the holes and fix them with screws. You can pre-coat the walls of the grooves with wood glue.

Stairs

Step 3. Connecting the bed racks to the shelves. How to make a bunk bed with sturdy sun loungers? Safety comes first. Our solution is simple and reliable. First, we mark the height of the attachment of both shelves. This is done from the inside of the racks at the level of the lower surfaces of the shelf frame. We tighten the shelves with racks with clamps, check the perpendicularity and make marks for the fasteners. We drill holes for screws in both boards of the rack. We fix the shelves by tightening the screws.

Fastening shelves with racks

Step 4. Hanging decorative edging. We measure the distance between the posts, saw off and adjust the longitudinal and transverse edging boards. We install them 5 cm below the frames to hide the bar structure. We fasten the edging to the shelves with screws.

Fastening edging to shelves

Step 5. Installation of the ladder. The left ladder post is attached to the bed post with three screws. The right pillar is screwed to the upper edging with two screws, and one to the lower edging. The screws are screwed in from the inside of the bed.

Fastening stairs and edging

Step 6. Installation of the fence. A do-it-yourself bunk bed should be not only durable, but also aesthetic. Therefore, we will make a beautiful fence. We cut longitudinal and transverse boards with dimensions of 70x22 mm into the bed racks, having previously selected the nests in the wood with a chisel. A railing is not required on the bottom shelf of the front side of the bed. We fix the rails with screws, screwing them to the racks. Sew up the openings between the edging and the fence with a beautiful fabric. The assembled product can be painted or varnished.

Step 7. Setting up the bed. To keep the bed stable, it must be attached to the wall with brackets.

Installing the bed

After finishing the work, we will free up a lot of space in our living space. Made to strict dimensions, this neatly assembled bunk bed will become a real decoration of your bedroom.

Need a bunk bed for your nursery? You can go to your nearest furniture store and choose the model you want at an affordable price. And you can save money by making a bed with your own hands, especially if you have the talent and skills of a carpenter.

How to make a bunk bed with your own hands?

  • Materials (edit)
    • 4 timber 5 cm x 10 cm 3 m long;
    • 4 timber 5 cm x 10 cm, length 2.5 m;
    • 2 boards 10 cm x 2 cm, 3 m long;
    • 1 board 15 cm x 2 cm, 3 m long;
    • 1 board 20 cm x 2 cm, 3 m long;
    • 2 sheet of plywood, chipboard or MDF 2.5 mx 1.25 m under the mattresses. Not less than 2.5 cm thick;
    • Self-tapping screws 70-80 mm;
    • Self-tapping screws for drywall 40 mm;
    • 8 screws 15 cm with washers;
    • 10 bolts with nuts and washers 8 cm;
    • 2 bolts with nuts and washers 16 cm;
    • Varnish, sandpaper, wood glue.
  • Tools

    • Screwdriver;
    • Saw;
    • Level;
    • Roulette;
    • Construction pencil;
    • Hands and head.
  • Assembling the frames

    We measure the mattresses that you are going to use and leave a small margin of 1-2 cm. We get the size of our frame. We measure the parts of the required size from the beams, cut and fasten with long self-tapping screws.

  • We attach to the side frames

    We saw off wide boards according to the size of the length and width of the frame and fasten them along the perimeter of the sides with self-tapping screws for drywall. For the upper berth, wider ones can be used.

  • Making a leg

    We use one leg for this children's bunk bed, as it will be attached in the corner to two adjacent walls.

    Measure the desired height distance from 10 cm of the bars and fasten with screws to each other, as shown in the image.

  • We install and fix the future bed

    Pre-drill a hole in the upper assembled frame for attachment to the leg. Then drill a hole in the leg at the height of the bed.

    Drill holes in the assembled frames for wall mounting.

    Screw the leg to the top frame and have someone hold the frame with their elbows against the wall. Level the frame and mark the holes in the wall.

    Drill holes in the wall and secure the top. Fasten the bottom in the same way.



  • Making the top fence

    Saw off 4 pieces of height from the timber under the upper fence. Saw off the fence boards to the size of 10 cm. We fix it to the bed.

    Do not forget to leave room for the stairs.

  • Making a ladder

    Depending on the height of your bunk bed, the stairs can be different sizes. For my case - the figure shows the dimensions. I bolted the steps.

  • Ready!

    We connect the ladder to the bed and set the base under the mattresses. Your bed is ready!

  • A do-it-yourself bunk bed should be not only durable and comfortable, but also beautiful. Therefore, sand the visible parts and varnish, and it will retain its appearance for a long time.

    Video: how to make a children's bunk bed.