House from a bar instruction. The sequence of building a house from a bar with your own hands

The decision to build a house from a bar is not made immediately and not suddenly. It's just that this technology, with a simpler assembly of the walls, allows you to get excellent characteristics for housing: for the Moscow region, a 195 mm thick bar is enough. With such a thickness of the outer walls, it will be warm, but in order to save on heating it is better to insulate it (outside 10 mm of mineral wool) and make a reclaimable facade. Then there will also be savings on heating.

Plasticity in processing is one of the advantages of wood

Which wood to choose

For the construction of a house, coniferous wood is usually used. There are several reasons. First, the high content of resins, which are natural preservatives and antiseptics. Due to their presence, wood is not destroyed for a long time. Secondly, the affordable price. You can, of course, build a house from beech or oak beams, but the price will be simply exorbitant. Thirdly, the wood is soft and easy to process.

Of all the conifers, a house made of pine logs is most often put. With good performance, it is relatively inexpensive. Houses made of larch and cedar are rarely installed: they are too expensive. Spruce is even less common, but for a different reason: it is destroyed the fastest of all, and even difficult to process. So with regard to the type of wood, there is, in fact, no choice. In 95% it is pine. But it is necessary to deal with the type of timber.

According to the method of processing, the timber can be:

• Plain or solid, non-planed timber. Sawed from a solid log, the cross-section is a quadrangle (square or rectangle).
• Profiled timber. It is also cut from a solid log, but after that it is processed: spikes and grooves are formed by cutters - profiles, with the help of which one bar is joined to another. The side faces are also processed. They come out of the machine already planed. The section is of a complex shape. The side faces can be smooth, rounded, curly - with chamfers, the shape of the "lock" - numerous barbs and grooves.
• Glued laminated timber. Outwardly similar to profiled, but assembled (glued) from several boards.

Let's analyze the features of each of the types of timber, regarding the construction of a house.

House made of ordinary timber

If earlier they said that they decided to build a house from a bar, then they definitely understood an ordinary rectangular bar. There was simply no other, or it was too expensive: it was brought from abroad. Ordinary timber is the most affordable price per cubic meter. But, as a result of all the required measures, the cost of construction may turn out to be higher than from the profiled one. It's all about the features of the material. They lead to significant additional costs even at the construction stage: when erecting a house from unplaned timber, an inter-crown insulation is necessarily used. Its geometry is imperfect, and if this is not done, the blowing through the gaps between the crowns will be soooo strong. The second feature is that the surface of the walls turns out to be uneven and you cannot do without finishing inside and out.

In addition to laying the inter-crown layer, the delivered log house is caulked, additionally sealing the seams. Caulk is needed not one, but at least two, sometimes more. And all because it is made from wood of natural moisture. In practice, this has the following consequences:

Another feature of a house made of ordinary timber: the walls are uneven. To give them a "decent" look, they are either sheathed with finishing materials, or polished. But grinding is a controversial undertaking: the inter-lead seal makes it almost impossible. Even if you manage to grind the timber, what to do with the seams?

So it turns out that the cost of the house as a result may be higher: add to the cost of the timber an inter-crown insulation, caulking material and the work itself (and it is not cheap), the cost of external and internal finishing. Consider also that moldings are brought to your site - bars of the ordered length. The bowls are cut out on the spot. This means that the qualifications of the carpenters must be high. How warm the corners will be depends on how the cut is made. And in a log house, it is the corners that are the most problematic place.

Features of the profiled bar

Considering the profiled timber, the first thing that catches your eye is the almost perfect geometry and smooth surfaces. In any case, it should be so. With good workmanship, finishing is not needed: the wall immediately turns out to be even and smooth, even if immediately for painting.

The second, also quite obvious feature, is due to the fact that the edges that join two profiled beams have recesses and protrusions (locks) of through slots cannot be. Manufacturers of profiled beams say that walls can be laid without inter-row insulation: it will be warm anyway. But few people listen to them. They put at least thin, but insulation. Someone uses a thin substrate under the laminate, someone uses self-expanding tape for mounting plastic windows, as well as jute tape and similar materials.

In the photo, by the way, the most widespread profile among developers lately is “comb”. It can have a "tooth" of different heights and widths, and is loved by everyone because, in theory, it is impossible to "blow" it. Nevertheless, here they are insured by laying insulation.

Several typical timber profiles (the two extreme ones on the right in the picture are glued timber, but the same profile is made from solid wood)

In general, there are a lot of profiles. Some of them are in the photo. When choosing a supplier, it is necessary to pay attention not only to the shape of the locks, but also to how they are made. The match in any pair should be maximum.

Having made the decision to build a house from a bar with a profile, you need to decide on its moisture content. Profiled timber can be of natural moisture (cheaper), sometimes it is chamber drying with a moisture content of no more than 14-16%. The features of lumber of natural moisture have already been considered, now let's talk about chamber drying. The company installs large drying ovens, into which the finished profiled timber is loaded. There, in conditions of high temperatures, it loses excess moisture. At the same time, all the processes that usually accompany the drying of wood take place in the chamber: it bursts, it twists. Accordingly, part of it goes to waste, and the rest is sold at a higher price. The reasons seem to be clear.

If you decide to build a house from a kiln-dried timber, you can start finishing earlier. The blockhouse should still stand, but it will take 9-12 months. In this case, new cracks are rarely formed, only existing ones expand. But it should be borne in mind that due to the high costs of drying, most often they only reduce the humidity to operational - 16-18%, while wood is considered to be 8-12% for chamber drying.

In any case, gaps will need to be sealed. Caulking is needed in very limited volumes: first of all, you will have to look through all the corners and cuts, if any (this is the name of the attachment points of the walls). Even a well-made bowl can dry out unevenly when it comes to gaps. Also, the beam can be turned out, which will also lead to the appearance or expansion of the gap. So a periodic revision of the corners is also required during operation. Wood is a living material, and something will change all the time. Also, after a year of sludge, too large cracks in the timber will have to be repaired (without fanaticism, so that the tow does not open up the crack).

The blockhouse is assembled from numbered blanks with a molded bowl (numbers in blue at the ends)

The situation with the assembly may be simpler. If you just order lumber, you can cut corners from a profiled bar, as from a usual one, on the site. But many enterprises, in the presence of a project, offer to take on part of the work. With the help of a special program, they make a layout on the timber: they make a list of "spare parts" from which the house will be assembled. Then, according to this list, blanks are cut out, and with molded thickets. The blanks are numbered and brought ready-made to the site, where it remains to fold the house, like a designer: folding the bars according to the numbers marked on the plan.

This is convenient, especially if you are going to build a house with your own hands without construction experience. It is clear that the service is not free, but you can save on paying for carpenters: assembling such a highly qualified designer is not required. Only in this case, whether your home will be warm or not, depends on how exactly the bowls are made in production. Sometimes there are firms that make very low-quality cuts. You can see several of these in the photo.

Poorly made bowls - the blowing will be incredible, and caulking will badly save

In general, there are disadvantages and advantages, but compared to a regular bar, a profiled one is more convenient in construction, and at a price it can also come out cheaper if you count with finishing.

Glued laminated timber

It is clear from the name that it consists of glued parts. First, lamellas are cut out, they are treated with antiseptics, dried to a certain humidity, and then glued. Due to the complex manufacturing process, the price tag of this material is about 2.5-3 times higher than that of a conventional material and 80-90% higher than that of a profiled one.

What are its advantages? Correctly made, it does not crack, it does not lead: dry material cannot have shrinkage, and glued beads should have a moisture content of no higher than 12-15%. Therefore, the finishing process, with a beam width sufficient to compensate for heat loss, can only be used for painting or varnishing, since protective impregnation is also carried out at the enterprise (it should, in any case).

What does glued laminated timber and its profiles look like?

Another consequence of the lack of shrinkage is that the folded log house can be immediately put under the roof after a few weeks, and after a few more weeks, finishing can be started. This time is necessary for the bowls to shrink, and the geometric dimensions of the laminated veneer lumber should not change. That is, a significant time saving is obtained - everything, including finishing work, can be done in one season.

But is glued bead so good? In terms of construction speed, yes. But it has serious drawbacks. First: it is glued. This negates one of the main advantages of wood - environmental friendliness. Second, it has low vapor permeability. Many people put up wooden houses precisely because of their ability to naturally regulate indoor humidity. Glued laminated timber is deprived of this due to the presence of layers of glue. Of all the advantages of wood, only an attractive appearance remains, but finished with a clapboard of the corresponding profile or block house, it looks exactly the same. Therefore, the use of glued beams for building a house is a very controversial issue.

Stages of building a house from a bar

A log house has several advantages:

• The walls are lightweight, which is why the load on the foundation is low, which means that the costs for its construction will be lower.
• Wood is an elastic material and it compensates for small movements of the foundation without compromising the integrity of the building. And this, again, allows shallow foundations to be made on well-draining soils.

The choice of the type of foundation depends largely on the soil, but most often they do it, if there is no need for a basement, you can put a columnar one (for small buildings for temporary residence - summer cottages, baths, etc.) or without). The choice should preferably be based on the results of geological studies. The process is described in more detail.

While the foundation “grasps”, prepare the wood. All timber and dowels are treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. Compositions are used that do not form a film on the surface of the log. They will not interfere with the drying process. After the preparation of the timber, the actual construction of the house begins:

• Cut-off waterproofing. To prevent wood from the foundation from pulling moisture, it is necessary to lay a layer of hydrophobic material. Previously, two layers of roofing material were laid under the first crown. Today there are more modern materials - coating and roll. You can use them, and in combination: coat, stick roll.
• Laying the flap. The beam is chosen without signs of blue, with a minimum number of knots. Desirable - from the middle part of the tree - with the maximum density of annual rings. It is additionally treated with impregnations intended for wood in direct contact with the ground. In order to ensure the best preservation of the first crown, there is a trick: a wide board, impregnated with bitumen mastic with mining, is laid on the waterproofing. Another layer of waterproofing is placed on it, and on top is already the first crown. All these layers are connected to the foundation by pins, which are poured into the foundation.
• Rough floor. Floor logs are attached to the first crown - a bar with a section of 150 * 100 mm. They are laid out with a step of at least 70 cm. To make it more convenient to work, boards of the subfloor are laid out on the logs without nailing them.
• Assembly of walls from a bar. If a wall kit with ready-made bowls is not ordered, they are "stabbed". Saw out according to the template. A template is drawn from a piece of plywood, it is circled, then cut out. A chainsaw is used more often, but a fairly high degree of ownership of the tool is required: how warm the house will be depends on the accuracy of the saw. The joining shapes of the timber are shown in the picture.

We have already spoken about laying the mezhventsovy insulation: when using a regular bar, it is mandatory, under profiled - it is desirable in bowls, the rest is optional. The crowns are connected to each other by pins - long round bars carved from a solid piece of wood, dowels - rectangular or hairpins - metal rods. In any case, a hole is drilled under the connection, into which the connecting element is hammered.

• The order of work depends on the type of roof chosen. When a simple device is installed, the rafter legs are installed, while the order is different. A windproof membrane is rolled out and fixed onto the assembled rafter system. In this form, the house is left for a long period of time to dry out.
• Door and window openings. For speedy shrinkage and shrinkage, you can cut out window and door openings, put a window or fixing strips. Door and window blocks are not placed until the end of the main shrinkage.

After a year or two, you can start finishing work. All the time, while the frame is being defended, it is necessary to monitor the processes taking place in the wood. It is immediately necessary to inspect the corners and, if necessary, drill them. Then monitor their condition, as well as the joints of the bar. If the pins were driven in with great effort, the timber may hang on them during shrinkage, which causes cracks to form. You can solve the problem by rambling around: they take a huge wooden hammer and knock on the walls, causing faster shrinkage. The same technique is used if the house sits down too slowly.

The video shows the main steps on how to build a house from a bar. Despite the lyrical digressions, there is a lot of valuable information.

How to build a house from a bar: photo report

They built such a house.

We ordered a wall kit according to the project, a strip foundation was poured under it.

They brought blanks with washed down bowls. They were carefully unloaded, while inspecting for flaws. One beam turned out to be problematic - it was in the middle of the ligament and suffocated - it became covered with a fungus. It was postponed for a separate "treatment". The rest were covered with impregnation (Valti Pohusta) and piled up.

So that there are no problems with the fungus, a gasket is laid under each - boards lying across.

Also, rolls of insulation and dowels were purchased. Nageli was sent to swim in the impregnation. They poured impregnation into the old bathtub and left them for half a day, then they took them out and dried them.

On the waterproofing laid on the foundation, the first crown was laid out - a half-beam. It has no grooves at the bottom.

It was pulled to the foundation with anchors to the studs poured into concrete.

The first crown was laid. The one that was previously fixed on the foundation is often called "zero".

We measure the diagonals. In order for the cups to fit without problems and there is no distortion, they must be equal. Allowable misalignment is a couple of millimeters.

Having aligned the diagonals, we drill the holes for the dowels. So that there are no holes larger / smaller than necessary in length, a limiter tree was planted on the drill.

The walls are gradually growing. We fasten them in a checkerboard pattern with pins.

In general, the timber is more or less normal, but there are problems with incorrectly washed down cups. When laying the timber, we get a huge gap. The fight against this is only to manually adjust the cups so that everything lies flat.

It takes a long time to eliminate these inconsistencies, but gradually all the walls are laid out.

Profiled timber walls kicked out

We start assembling the rafter system. First, as is customary, the two extreme farms are installed, then - everything else, according to the project.

The finished crate was sheathed with roofing material. So let's leave the house to dry.

Inside we lay out the boards of the subfloor, nailing every fifth one. They will dry with the house.

Related Videos

The mistakes that are made when building houses from profiled timber are described in detail and discussed in this video. Very helpful. Take a look.

Environmental friendliness and high quality characteristics are inherent in wooden housing construction. Our grandfathers collected whole houses from round timber, the beauty of which is still delightful. And thanks to modern antiseptics and neomid, a wooden blockhouse is not afraid of fires and fungus. In installation on your own, it is easier to use a bar of the correct shape. How to make a log house from a bar with your own hands, the main stages of installation, the rules and recommendations of specialists can be found in this article.

We design your house

Before assembling a house from a bar, you must choose the right project. Log buildings are assembled according to standard or individual designs, they can differ in architectural complexity or have simple shapes. If you plan to assemble a ready-made factory log house, then we recommend opting for a standard project, which has advantages:

1. The blockhouse has already been tested in operation, and the manufacturer has eliminated the main drawbacks.
2. The material for manufacturing is used as economically as possible, so the price for a finished box is cheaper.
3. It is easier to choose a finishing material and a roof, as you can see with your own eyes several finished houses and chat with the owners.

When choosing an individual design, timber is also the most suitable material. It has the correct shape and fits any size. Therefore, with the advent of this lumber, it became possible to assemble wooden boxes of the most complex and unusual shapes.

By choosing a timber of the desired section, any project can be easily adjusted to any region with different average temperatures and climates. A small section material is suitable for a garden or country house: 100x50 mm, 100x100 mm. For permanent residence, a bar with a section of 150x150, 150x200, 200x100 mm is taken. The simplest option is a square section - 150x150 mm. The square shape allows you to quickly assemble the walls without selecting the technical and external sides. But on condition that the timber is simple. In this case, a section of 150x150 mm must also be insulated.

One of the economical options is profiled material. The spike and groove on the technical sides of the timber are firmly connected during installation and create a reliable barrier to the wind. The walls are insulated with a tape heat insulator, right during assembly. And if the front and back sides are additionally sanded, then after assembling the box, you only need to walk along the walls with paint and varnish and the house is ready for living.

A separate group is made of glued sawn timber. This bar consists of lamellas, which are interconnected under the influence of a press and glue. But scientists still argue about the environmental friendliness of glued sawn timber. From the positive stand out: high strength of the walls and increased thermal insulation properties. So for the construction of a residential building from glued material, a cross section of 100x100 mm is suitable, at winter temperatures up to -15 degrees, additional wall insulation is not needed.

When choosing a project, it is worth considering what type of timber the walls will be assembled from. Since further finishing work depends on this, which means additional material investments.

Where to start?

When the project is selected, the assembly of a log house from a bar begins. The base of the house is being prepared - the foundation. Since the material is lightweight, any type of foundation is suitable:

1. Columnar;
2. Tape grillage;
3. Tape.

We do not recommend a monolithic one, since this is the most expensive option, which will be profitable only if the soil is mobile and strongly crumbling. For loose soil with a high groundwater table, a pile or columnar foundation is suitable. How to build a house if the soil is swampy and mobile? It is wise to use screw piles. It is easy to mount them with your own hands, and there will be less "walking" in the future. But, choosing a columnar or pile foundation, it is worthwhile to understand that in the future, the basement of the house will have to be additionally framed and insulated. Otherwise, there will be no basement or cellar in the house, and the heat loss after insulating the basement will decrease by 15%.

One of the most popular types of foundations for a wooden frame is strip. It got its name for its external resemblance to a concrete tape rolled out on the ground. The height of the foundation is selected individually and is related to the characteristics of the groundwater.

With a high level of groundwater occurrence and freezing in winter by more than 1.2 m, a tape-grillage option can be used. The structure combines a concrete strip, but on piles every 1.5 - 2 m. Moreover, first the piles are poured, then the formwork is made for the strip. Before pouring, it is recommended to calculate the cubic capacity of the foundation, this will reduce the cost of concrete.

A detailed technology for assembling a strip-grillage foundation is disclosed in one of the previous articles.

Lego for adults

The manufacturer will deliver the finished log house to the site in a sealed package, it will be easier to assemble it with your own hands. It is difficult to assemble your house from a solid bar without experience and skills, since the correct connection of the corners is required. But more on that below.

Strapping

Before laying the first crown, it is necessary to waterproof the foundation. The tree is hermetically sealed, and along the microcracks in the foundation, moisture will get to the first crown and over time it will begin to rot. For work you will need materials: bituminous mastic (price from 350 rubles) and roofing material (price from 220 rubles)

Waterproofing is carried out as follows:

1. From above, the foundation is coated with hot bitumen mastic.
2. The first layer of roofing material is rolled out from above. When docked, the material is overlapped.
3. Roofing material is again coated with bituminous mastic.
4. The finishing layer of roofing material is rolled out.

The width of the roofing material should exceed the width of the foundation by 15–20 cm. The remaining ends of the roofing material can later be hidden under the plinth trim.

First crown

The first crown of the log house is laid on the level of the dried waterproofing. In cross-section, the first crown is larger than the others in the box. This will increase the stability of the structure.

The first crown of a log house is the most important in the design, therefore, to increase durability, it is worth overpaying for larch or aspen. They are less susceptible to moisture, and over time they acquire a hardness comparable to iron. But we do not recommend using aspen from the Volga region. The tree has a fragile core and in 90% of cases is not suitable for construction.

Before laying, the first crown is covered with protective compounds (Sanezh, Belinka Bio, Tikkurila, Neomid 440 and Valtti Aquacolor (price from 120 rubles / l). The first crown is laid on unfolded slats or a lining board. The slats are laid in increments of 30-40 cm across the foundation strip, the boards are sewn to the base using metal pins.The slats are 10 mm thick and create an additional gap between the foundation and the strapping, which creates additional ventilation.The wooden strapping is attached to the foundation with metal anchors.But the box is attached to the base only in light Large houses with several floors are quite heavy and will not move from the base without additional fasteners.

We fold the box

It is not difficult to build a log house from a ready-made kit, but you will have to tinker with a solid bar. There are several options for corner joints of a bar with a remainder and even:

1. Assembling in the paw. At the ends of the timber, spikes and nests for them are cut out. It has disadvantages: it is blown out, over time the material will dry out and serious insulation will be required.
2. Dovetail. The option is similar to the previous one, but has a special cut at an angle. Minus the difficulty drank.
3. Into the bowl. In each beam, a bowl is made from below for the upper link. The upper crown fits into the bowl and creates a sealed connection. Cons: You need skill and a special cup cutter.
4. Half a tree. Half of the section is cut out in each end part. The upper crown fits into the resulting nest. Disadvantages are blow-through and unreliable connections. To increase the grip, a key is made of wood, with which the ends are connected.

Cornering with the remainder is considered warmer and more reliable. The corners and the timber are additionally connected to each other using dowels. Nagel used wooden or metal. The latter option is more reliable, but when the log dries up, cracks form in the walls, and metal pins spoil the appearance of the house. Wooden dowels can be made independently from the remnants of lumber or birch. The dowels will give the structure additional strength, and will not allow the timber to twist when it dries. Dowels are attached to every two crowns, passing one, in increments of at least 150 cm.

A jute insulation is rolled out between each bar (price from 110 rubles). If the material is profiled, then between the spikes and grooves there is a special groove for laying tape insulation. If joints of a bar are needed along the length, then a joint in a root spike is used. The essence of the connection is in the cut-outs of the thorn and groove, which are securely connected and additionally fastened with dowels.

Internal partitions in a log house do not need to be assembled immediately. They are made with a material of a smaller section and are attached to the main walls. But if you plan a two-story log house from a bar with your own hands, then at least one partition is assembled immediately. It serves as an additional support.

Sub-floors can be installed immediately. They further serve as the basis for a warm "cake" of the finished floor. Mineral wool or ecowool, polystyrene can serve as a floor insulation. The most inexpensive option is to use foam, it will add additional sound insulation between floors.

It is not recommended to cut out window and door openings in a log house right away. The structure must stand. Even chamber drying during the first three months will shrink at least 3%, natural humidity at least 10%. Before inserting the frames, a jar is made, which will give the structure more strength and will not allow distortions to occur during the walking of the ground.

Choosing a roof and roof

Until complete shrinkage, a rough roof is erected. If the timber is chamber-dried or glued, then the shrinkage is insignificant and you can proceed to the finishing roof. Any material is suitable as a roof: corrugated board, ondulin, soft tiles. The most economical option for garden houses is roofing material or slate. The pitch of the lathing will depend on the choice of the roof. The softer the roof and the flatter the roof, the more often the lathing is done. For example, under the soft tiles, a substrate is made of thin plywood.

The roof structure is selected individually. But the fewer bends and angles in the structure, the more reliable it will be. The simplest option is a shed roof or a gable roof, they are assembled with their own hands.

The rafter system is assembled from the laying of ceiling logs. A bar with a section of 100x50 mm is suitable for work. The technical side will be 50 mm. The front and the frame of the rafter system are assembled from material with a cross section of 150x100 mm. They are attached to the Mauerlat, which is laid on the top of the wall. A bar with a section of 150x150 mm is taken as a Mauerlat. The most difficult thing in installation is to install the first rafters and a matrix. You can fasten the rafter system to the walls using metal brackets or anchor bolts. The lags and the Mauerlat are connected to each other using a thorn-groove lock. Readers can read more in the article on roof installation.

The finished roof is insulated and waterproofing is done. This is necessary to reduce heat loss in the house. Next, they proceed to additional insulation and finishing. The wooden house will completely shrink after three years. It is not recommended to carry out grandiose design finishing work at this time, but it is already possible to live in the house.

What how much

As you know, the road will be mastered by the walker, but the owner's hands are not always sharpened for construction work, or the work eats up all free time. Specialists will complete the assembly of the log house in a few weeks, and the quality of the work will be high. The installation price will depend on what work needs to be done. There are two types of standard log house installation services:

1. Full construction.
2. Simple assembly.

The service differs in the list of works. Turnkey installation includes: foundation (casting, formwork), box assembly, rafter system, roofing, subfloors and ceiling, installation of windows and doorways, all internal partitions. A simple assembly can include individual jobs. For example, the foundation is made by hand, and the box and the rafter system are assembled by specialists.

Wooden houses have always been considered the warmest, most comfortable and environmentally friendly. Therefore, it is not surprising that in our time, many owners of suburban areas dream of building a wooden dwelling.

What will be discussed:

We build from a bar

Today, instead of traditional logs, wooden beams can be used for this purpose. This is a new generation material, characterized by strength and wonderful appearance, and it is so easy to assemble buildings from it that even non-specialists can cope with it.

The advantages of buildings made of this lumber also include:

• · High thermal insulation, which is several times higher than the similar property of other building materials and allows you to significantly save on energy resources.
• · The timber is more than twice as strong as logs, it does not crack.
• · For the manufacture of the material, polyurethane glue, safe for humans and the environment, is used.
• · Houses made of timber, unlike log houses, are practically not subject to shrinkage, therefore construction and interior decoration will take much less time.

Material selection

Before you start building a house with your own hands, you need to choose a material. In today's building materials market, manufacturers offer several types of timber, which differ in their functional characteristics.

Glued laminated timber is considered the most durable and resistant to external influences. He is shown in the photo below.

Well-dried lamellas are used for its manufacture. Due to the fact that all areas with various defects are removed from the initial material, glued laminated timber becomes more durable, and its appearance is also improved. Then the lamellas are spiked and glued so that different layers of wood fibers complement each other. This way of assembling the timber makes it very strong and pressure-resistant. Assembling a house from laminated veneer lumber is quite simple.

Profiled beams are also produced today (in the lower photo). Its main difference is the presence of special grooves that facilitate the assembly of the structure. It can be solid or glued, rectangular or D-shaped.

The main difference between the glued material is that it does not shrink. You can start finishing the walls immediately after the end of the assembly. Profiled lumber can give a slight shrinkage, however, it is many times less than that of a wooden frame.

The answer to the question: how much does it cost to assemble a house from a profiled bar depends on how thick the material you choose and what degree of humidity it will have.

Material calculation

If you decide to assemble a dwelling from a bar with your own hands, at the initial stage of construction, you should calculate the volume of the required building material. For this, the perimeter of the future building is calculated and multiplied by the estimated floor height. The resulting result is multiplied by the thickness of the lumber. As a result, you get a figure equal to the number of cubes of material for the construction of one floor. A tree should be added to the resulting volume for the assembly of interior partitions.

Preparing for assembly

To properly assemble a house from a bar with your own hands, you must adhere to some recommendations. All lumber is carefully inspected and sorted. Further, all noticeable irregularities are shaved off the surface. Following the project, the length of each timber is determined, trimmed and marked. To speed up the assembly process, you must first prepare the pins and drill holes for them. All prepared timber is laid out on the side of the wall where they will be laid.

Construction stages

Before assembling a house from a 150x150 bar, you should prepare the foundation. Its depth and type depend on the size of the house being built and the characteristics of the soil on the site. After the foundation has stood enough, you can start laying the first crown. If you are assembling a house with your own hands, be sure to take into account the advice of experts: do not lay the first crown immediately on the foundation.

This is the place most exposed to moisture, so a board should be laid between the concrete and the timber, which can be easily replaced if necessary. Its thickness must be at least 50 mm. Before laying, the board is treated with an antiseptic solution.

After laying the first contour layer of the beams, masonry is performed. Jute is used to seal the joints between the previous and subsequent rows. To strengthen the structure, every two beams are connected with dowels.

So that the lumber does not deform in the area of ​​window and door openings, part of the timber is laid according to the size of the wall. After the shrinkage has passed, the unnecessary tree is cut out.

The floor of the first floor and the attic are insulated with a layer of mineral wool. After 3-4 months, you can start internal work. Before that, they once again inspect all the walls. If cracks appear on the surface of the beams during shrinkage, they must be repaired, the cracks are caulked with jute.

The top of the wall can be varnished. It will protect the tree from moisture and UV rays. To reduce the cost of paints and varnishes, the walls are sanded. In addition, a coating applied to a smooth sanded surface will last longer.

Step-by-step instructions on how to assemble a house from a bar in the video below. This video describes in detail all the necessary stages of work.

In order for the house you built to be reliable and serve for more than a dozen years, do not forget about the following recommendations.

1. Before assembling the structure, the material is cut and chamfered.
2. It is impossible to use nails to fix the bars; pins are suitable for this purpose. For a 6 m long timber, you will need four dowels (two at the edges and two in the middle at the same distance from each other).
3. Walls are assembled from smoother beams, material with a slight curvature is used for short sections in places of door or window openings.
4. To assemble the corners, a thorn-groove connection is used.

A house correctly assembled from glued or profiled timber will serve for more than a dozen years, allowing you to enjoy warmth and comfort.

Profiled wood, with the proper quality of processing, gives a gapless connection. A bolt made of groove elements - the tongue of a labyrinth-type double cup lock has been tested for decades. Fitting gapless corner joints is able to turn the frame of a log house into a thermos without significant heat loss.

Cold bridges blocked

It is profitable to order a ready-made standard project for the construction of a cottage from a bar with reference to the region. To select from the savings in the network and adapt the technical project to the request by the designer. What is the advantage of the project:

• Get a detailed cost estimate for material, components, cost of work;
• The questions of lack of material or the sale of the remaining surplus will not arise;
• Detailed drawings and subassemblies will lead you out of the maze of errors;
• Transport costs are optimized;
• Laying pipes and cables will not cause difficulties;
• The maximum cost of a standard project is 20 thousand rubles.

But the implementation of the idea rests on the need to hire a team of qualified carpenters. The level of responsibility, skill of specialists and the severity of hidden flaws will become clear during the first winter.

How to be inexperienced in construction for the layman, who has conceived to build a warm house from profiled timber with his own hands? Order a house kit at a local house-building plant and save a substantial amount by this step and bring the settlement date closer.

In fact, a house kit is a constructor for a builder. The profiled timber is cut to size, the dovetail-type connecting locks are made without gaps on precision factory equipment, which excludes the appearance of cold bridges.

In the attached video, craftsmen use a chainsaw with jewelry for this purpose. But are they capable of replicating the precision of a machine tool production line? It can be seen that the cuts are made approximately, with a margin. They will surely caulk or foil inconsistencies in the cuts? Doubt pushes to engage in self-construction. And the cost of work will result in no less amount than factory processing.

DIY profiled timber house

Benefits of purchasing a house kit from a profiled bar

Technological worker replaces carpenter - that's what machining means

The developer is limited in time, he is looking for an opportunity to reduce the cost of erecting a log house. Let's figure out whether the costs for cutting and sampling are reasonable:

• You get kiln-dried wood with 10–16% moisture content in sealed bags;
• End treatment with INDULINE film-forming stabilizer. This means that the main channel for absorbing moisture is blocked, the web of cracks will not disfigure the cut;
• Each part is numbered, the instructions will indicate the place of assembly;
• Adjustments and modifications are excluded, time is spent only on the assembly process at home;
• Check prices at wholesalers for a cubic meter of long profiled logs. It turns out that the cost of a similar unit of a house kit is the same or more expensive by up to 10% - this is where the benefit is hiding;
• A set of timber for a house with an area of ​​120 m 2 will cost about 650,000 rubles, for 190 m 2 - about 950,000 rubles;
• The cost of assembly is averaged 25% of the cost of the timber. Dispose of the reserve fund at your own discretion;
• The thickness of the log house will be offered according to the climatic zone: the common size of the timber is 150 x 150 mm, suitable for Voronezh. In Siberia, wall thickness less than 220–250 mm is unacceptable;
• Installation will be accelerated twice;
• The material is treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant 100%.

Complete set 100% from base to ridge, such is the construction service

Ready-made house kits from the manufacturer

Laying the foundation

The weight of 1 m 3 of dried coniferous timber is 0.5 tons. Roofing, interfloor ceilings, furniture, wind and snow loads will be added. The total weight will not exceed 40 tons for a two-storey house of 10 x 10 m. The depth of the groundwater and the type of soil affect the choice of the basis.

The pile will speed up the start of the assembly of the frame. Columnar and shallow foundations are laborious: the volume of excavated soil is large. To prevent the concrete from getting wet, a compacted sand bed of 0.3 m is made, on top of a gravel pad.

The concrete foundation is poured in advance, at least six months before the start of construction. Box-shaped reinforcement with a metal period Ø 12–14 mm will strengthen the monolith. After the concrete has cured, the base must stand so that the swelling of the soil during freezing and thawing reveals weak points or confirms strength.

The layout of the foundation of the house is carried out in accordance with the drawing. The corner base points of the outer and inner fillets require special attention. Precision is required in the location of the threaded inserts. After removing the formwork, the walls and the upper edge are coated with a waterproofing agent. Insulation with expanded polystyrene will extend the life of the foundation. Backfilling of clay is done with a bevel outward.

We raise a house from a profiled bar

We level the upper edge of the foundation according to the level, lay 2 rows of roofing material for waterproofing. We lay antiseptic and treated with bitumen mastic boards of fifty of a larger format: the logs will rest on them.

The bottom row is prone to decay. Let's donate boards - it's easier to replace them. We put the first crown on the layer of insulation. We pay special attention to the coincidence of the angles. We do not let go of the level, plumb line, and the cord for checking the diagonal.

Insulation tape is inserted into the sinuses of each row of the profiled timber and the corner joints of the outer walls. Wooden dowels, hammered in with an interference fit, strengthen the connection between the elements of the frame. Steel screeds will cause dew point in the thickness of the material, provoke decay and decay. Therefore, they are used only to connect the log house with the foundation.

There is no loophole for the cold: the barrier is reliable

The installation of the log under the subfloor is consistent with the size of the slab mineral wool insulation with a step of 0.6 m. Fastening to the timber with reinforced corners and on suspensions stabilizes the spatial position of the log.

Splicing is allowed by overlap or by overlapping a cut with a fixation zone of at least 0.6 m of each end. On both sides, the logs are sewn up with 9 mm OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood. Laying of a vapor-conducting membrane is obligatory.

The floor slab is analogous to the subfloor. The only difference is in the amount of insulation, which has become a sound insulator. Partitions are mounted in one axis - partial unloading of load-bearing walls is required: in addition to its own weight, the roof transmits wind load.

The skill of assembling walls from profiled timber and partitions according to the drawing and instructions comes quickly. An important concern, until the roof is covered, is to protect the log house and unclaimed workpieces from precipitation and air humidity in bad weather.

In the heat and frost, cracking of a tree saturated with moisture is inevitable. Cracking will worsen the thermal conductivity of the wood. Eliminating damage is a long-term "pleasure" for more than one day.

Let's give the floor to the Scandinavians

There are a lot of heaters that are superior to wood in terms of heat conservation. And profiled timber of a large format is expensive due to the abundance of waste that is unsuitable for processing into building materials. Swedish builders decided to reduce the cost of the processes by including paired parts with a thickness of 70 mm.

Using a smaller section of wood reduces costs by up to 40%. Foamed breathable insulation seals the joints, allows you to reduce the power of heating devices, even in the Arctic zone. Penoizol is ideal in terms of cost and thermophysical properties on the market.

An option was tested with the replacement of a wooden beam with a laminated chipboard analogue from chips. A heat insulator of 100 mm bears the main load in terms of heat saving. The resulting monolith is not afraid of warping and cracking. Shrinkage has also decreased. It often makes sense to adopt such a novelty.

Progress does not stand still

You know how to build, learn to wait

After you have brought the house under the roof, closed the windows and doors and left only cracks for a draft (let it blow out excess moisture), you need to wait for shrinkage. Under their own weight, the spikes of the timber will cut deeper into the grooves of the structure. The pause lasts up to six months. Windows, door frames are waiting in the wings, otherwise the structure will warp.

Now is the time to carry out additional insulation from the inside. It should be noted that in this way the costs for profiled timber are reduced: a reduction in size by 50 mm in thickness and width brings savings of 2–2.5 thousand rubles. per cubic meter

The only condition: natural and artificial materials with steam conductivity are used. Let's turn the dwelling into a foam box - we will destroy the tree, we will arrange a bathhouse in the room. We'll have to invest in forced ventilation.

No matter how good the profiled beam is, the smoothness of the walls is relative. If you like the interior of the hut, leave it as it is. The texture of the timber under the varnish layer looks attractive. But, of course, the design of a modern stylish home requires a different approach.

As an option - drywall, fixed on vertical holders - will hide flaws. A heat insulator will be arranged between the guides and the house will not be afraid of the cold. While one floor is being finished, the other will already become residential.
Protecting the facade of a house from profiled timber, as a regular event, will drive you crazy. Varnishes, paints, impregnations fade under the sun and lose their protective properties. Perhaps sooner or later you will have to think about a ventilated facade. But a house assembled from a bar, under a plastic cladding, will lose the charm of a natural material.

Bottom line: your own roof over your head

Conclusion

Building a house from a bar on your own for the summer season is a feasible task. Do not make adjustments to the finished project - this is perhaps the only wish of the manufacturer. The implementation of a large-scale project by the customer and the contractor in one person ensures that your expectations are met.

All photos from the article

We suggest that you consider a step-by-step guide on how to build a house from a bar with one or another type of foundation and a gable roof. It should be said right away that we will not go into the smallest details, since this material is designed for the reader who knows how to hold any instrument in his hands. All this is below in the text, and you will also see a thematic video in this article.

Construction stages

Note. Do not forget that the longest bar is only 6m long, and if you are planning, for example, a 7 × 8m house, then you will have to dock in rows, which complicates installation.

Types of foundations used for wooden houses

Construction method:

• the pillar itself is usually a masonry of bricks or concrete blocks, 40-50 cm high, which mainly depends on if the slope is on a given site;
• a hole is made for masonry, 20-25 cm deep and 40-50 cm wide, a sand pillow is poured there, and then a concrete solution is poured. With this pillow, you can adjust the height of the post - simply by adding or removing a certain amount of concrete mixture;
• the distance between the control points should be no more than 2m, moreover, they should be at every corner and at every junction.

Construction method:

• for the location of the support points, the instruction here is the same as in the case of a columnar foundation - a distance of at least 2m, plus supports at each corner and at each connection;
• for the construction of such a base, they take metal or asbestos-cement pipes at least 20 cm in diameter and dig it into the ground by 40-50 cm, thus obtaining a casing;
• then the pipe is poured with concrete and reinforced, although this is not a prerequisite for steel elements.

Construction method:

• if the construction of a log house with your own hands is done on a pile-screw foundation, then the number of screw piles will be exactly the same as the number of rammed piles or pillars;
• such a pile is simply screwed into the ground with a lever to any depth, although you still have to cut off the excess later;
• such a foundation is very convenient for areas with a steep slope - the pipe simply compensates for it.

Construction method:

• strip foundations can be monolithic, that is, poured into a trench or formwork with a reinforcing cage, or prefabricated - assembled from brick, stone or blocks;
• the depth of the tape depends on the condition of the soil and the weight of the higher building - they are buried and shallow;
• buried foundations are used on heaving soils, and it should be 40-50 cm below the freezing point of the soil;
• such foundations are considered the best for any type of building, although this is not always advisable, since cheaper versions can be dispensed with.

A little about the timber

The beam has not only a different cross section and length, but also by the type of profile - it can be profiled (have grooves for longitudinal connection). The percentage of an architectural structure sagging will depend on moisture - it can be wet and dry.

Such material also differs in the type of manufacture - it is made from solid wood or glued from lamellas (the price varies greatly). Profiles can be made from different types of wood, where Siberian larch is considered the most valuable, followed by the Ural spruce.

All these nuances must be taken into account when designing a house. The fact is that joining into a smooth joint needs a sealing gasket (jute or linen tape) and pins for fixing.

In addition, it is very important to provide for communication channels such as water supply, sewerage, heating, electrification and communications. It is advisable that all the "wet" rooms such as a bathroom, toilet, kitchen are next to each other - this will facilitate the insertion of channels.

Box construction

It all starts with the installation of the piping, which is installed on any type of foundation, pre-laying the shut-off waterproofing. When we build a house from a bar with our own hands, then it is on the lower crown that the greatest load in terms of humidity falls.

That is why a wedding board made of larch with a thickness of 50 mm can additionally be placed under it. Either the board or the lower crown must be impregnated with an antiseptic, which increases its operational period by an order of magnitude.

But let's see, what benefits does a wedding board bring? Sooner or later, the bottom will rot and no preparations used to treat wood will help in this. But after all, replacing the board is much easier and cheaper than the whole crown!