Brickwork ovens. How to fold a brick oven with your own hands: a step-by-step guide for properly laying a brick oven in the house

Kinds

There are many varieties of heating and cooking stoves, each stove-maker probably has several tested drawings and schemes in stock, according to which he does the masonry with his own hands. But, one way or another, they are all built on the basis of long-known ones, which are discussed below.

swedish oven

"Swede" was originally intended to perform several functions: heating, cooking a variety of food, as well as drying and keeping clothes warm. Its design is thought out for trifles, the stove is equipped with a hob, an oven, and well-heated oven niches. In addition, her smoke channels are made in such a way that the furnace body is heated evenly from bottom to top which keeps the temperature in the room stable.

A distinctive feature of the Swedish stove shown in the photo is the oven. And its function is not limited to baking and baking. The oven is located next to the firebox and is separated from it by a thin layer of masonry. The vault of the firebox is formed by a slab located in a niche. Immediately after the start of the firebox, the hob and the wall between the firebox and the oven warm up well.

In winter time when the furnace is fully loaded, the initial heating of the room occurs by convection currents from the stove and oven, after the end of the furnace - due to the heated walls of the furnace. The hob does not overheat. because air is constantly circulating above it.

In summer, the oven is used mainly for cooking.. In this case, intensive convection does not occur, since there is no temperature difference, and a small amount of fuel is sufficient for good heating of the stove. The oven also warms up, creating a high temperature zone at the outlet of the firebox, due to which the flue gases go into the channels completely burnt out. At the same time, the body of the furnace heats up slightly.

The scheme and drawings of the masonry of the Swedish-type furnace with your own hands are shown in the figure.

For laying a classic "Swede" with your own hands, you need:

• solid red brick brand M 150 - 580 pieces;
• clay-based dry masonry mix - 200 kg;
• cast-iron grate;
• furnace door;
• the door blew;
• cast iron stove with two collapsible burners;
• oven welded from sheet metal;
• chimney valve - 2 pcs;
• cleaning - 3 pieces;
• equal-shelf steel corner 40 mm - 170 cm;
• steel strip 5x50 mm - 65 cm;
• flat slate 10 mm thick - 1 sheet;
• roof iron.

The foundation for the Swede is made solid, made of concrete. Under the foundation, it is necessary to make a sand and gravel cushion 15-20 cm thick. The height of the foundation itself is at least 30 cm, with a two-layer reinforcement made of a bar. The foundation before the start of laying is kept for at least 20 days to gain strength.

Level the foundation with a screed with the floor level. After it dries, it is necessary to insulate the furnace from concrete, otherwise it will take a significant part of the heat.

Execute it like this:

1. a sheet of asbestos 3-4 mm thick is laid on the foundation with dimensions that are 30 cm larger than the dimensions of the furnace from the sides and rear and 60 cm from the side of the furnace;
2. a heat reflector is laid on asbestos - foil or thin galvanizing;
3. next - another similar layer of asbestos with the same dimensions;
4. a sheet of roofing iron with the same indents as asbestos;
5. over iron - technical felt impregnated with clay milk according to the size of the furnace.

On top of the felt, after it dries, they begin laying the furnace according to the scheme-order:
First two rows- continuous. They form the base of the oven. Third and fourth- install the blower door, cleaning and begin to form the lower part of the smoke circulation and the ash pan. In the 5th row install grate and oven. In the 6th row continue to lay out smoke channels, install a partition between the oven and the combustion chamber. In the 7th row put the firebox door, fix it in 8 and 9 rows, continue laying out channels. 10 row forms a support for the hob. To properly install it, you must first lay the brick on a dry one, attach the slab and mark the laying grooves.

For the convenience of laying, the bricks are numbered, the row is disassembled and the recesses for laying the slab are selected with the help of a grinder so that a gap of 5 mm remains on all sides. After that, the row is assembled on a masonry mortar, and the slab itself is placed on a clay-asbestos liquid mortar. For its preparation, crushed asbestos is introduced into the masonry mortar, diluted to a creamy consistency. When laying the slab, be sure to check it for level. If the burners are of different sizes, the larger one is placed above the firebox, the smaller one is above the oven.

Rules for laying the hob: video

From 12 to 16 row lay out the walls of the niche above the stove and smoke channels. Over 16 rows put a sheet of flat slate according to the size of the niche, and in 17 and 18 rows lay it with a brick, forming the ceiling of the furnace. Further masonry lead according to the scheme up to 30 rows, in which they put a valve, after which they proceed to laying the desired height.

Small cooking stove

In the country house or in the summer kitchen, the stove can be installed for only one purpose - cooking. In this case, there is no need to waste material on smoke circulation. An excellent model of the cooking oven is presented in order.

This multifunctional wood-burning stove has several functions: on the hob you can cook and fry, in the oven you can bake, in addition, it is equipped with a built-in tank for heating water.

Its elements are indicated on the sketch of the facade:

• 1 - firebox;
• 2 - ash pan and blower;
• 3 - oven;
• 4 - water tank;
• 5 - cleaning door.

The stove resembles a “Swede” in design and type of heating, but without smoke channels. The heated smoke goes immediately into the chimney, so the stove is heated with a small amount of fuel. The outlet to the chimney is located at the back, which allows you to bring the pipe through the wall with your own hands, observing fire safety standards.

For this stove no more than 250 bricks are required, which allows you to install it on the floor of the house without building a foundation. In this case, it is also necessary to do thermal insulation, but in the reverse order: felt is impregnated with a liquid clay solution on the floor, and a sheet of roofing iron is laid on it. Laying begins on top of the sheet.

First two rows, like the Swede, solid. In the 3rd row install purge, at 4 and 5- an ash pan door, they form a smoke circulation and an exit to the chimney. In the 6th row make an overlap of the ash pan door, install an oven and a water tank. In the 7th row a grate is placed at the bottom of the furnace, from 8 to 10 row lay out a partition between the firebox and the oven, put the furnace door. 11 row- overlapping over a fire chamber door, an oven and a tank. Also in the 11th row, a recess is made for laying the slab.

The top of the oven is covered with a cast iron hob with two burners. They are selected so that the most heated one is located above the firebox. Lay a slab with a gap of 5 mm on a clay solution with the addition of asbestos.

Kuznetsov's furnaces

Fundamentally new design Furnaces are implemented in Unlike channel furnaces, they are devoid of a complex system of internal passages, and the circulation of gases occurs in cavities - caps. For this feature, Kuznetsov's stoves are called bell-shaped. Among his developments are heating, cooking, stoves for baths and cottages.

In channel furnaces, hot gases pass through labyrinths of passages, gradually giving off heat. This causes uneven heating, and sometimes the destruction of the elements of the furnace. If the channels are not long enough, for example, in sauna stoves, the gases do not have time to cool down, as a result, efficiency decreases, and the stove heats the air.

In bell-type structures, heated smoke rises into the bell - a cavity bounded by a ceiling from above, and having an exit from below. The hot gas at the top of the hood gradually cools down, heating the walls of the furnace, and gradually descends. The circulation of gases in Kuznetsov's bell-type furnaces is shown in the figure.

For full heat transfer in Kuznetsov's furnaces, not one, but two or three caps are made, and their placement can be either vertical - one above the other, for example, in sauna stoves, or horizontal - in models equipped with a stove bench. Heating and cooking stoves, as a rule, imply a vertical arrangement of caps.

The cooking surface is located either above the firebox, or forms the arch of the lower hood. In the second case, the temperature on it will be more stable. Do-it-yourself orders for masonry, as well as photos of the most popular designs of Kuznetsov furnaces, are presented below.

Heating and cooking stove

Kuznetsov's stove for a bath

Video: laying Kuznetsov's heating and cooking stove

Video: Kuznetsov's stove for a bath

A heating and cooking stove is an indispensable attribute of a village house, as well as a recreation area in a bathhouse or in a country house. If you have a diagram, drawings, ordering and detailed instructions, you can fold it with your own hands, and it will heat the house and delight the owners with a variety of delicious and fresh dishes.

Once upon a time, classic brick stoves for the house were its obligatory attribute and the only way of heating. Professional stove-makers were in demand and respected. To date, there are many new means for space heating, which operate on various energy sources, from solid fuel to electricity. However, good stove-setters remain in demand and the online request for “brick ovens for home drawings with orders” remains frequent.

Some build stoves for baths, for giving, or simply because of the remoteness of housing, which is why there is no alternative. Different types of ovens can perform a heating function, some models can cook traditional dishes. Some are large in size, others are compact and prefabricated. Some plan before building a house, while others need to fit into an existing room. Furnaces are ordered or made with their own hands in order to save money, others are erected to fill the decor. In any case, all such equipment should be built from high-quality and suitable materials, in accordance with the existing SNiP. On the Internet, you can find any drawings with orders, but you need to understand that it will not be so easy to build a stove for a house with your own hands.

Why does the brick oven remain competitive, more and more are being built, so many advantages?

It would seem that today there are many alternatives for heating, which are much more convenient to operate, and according to manufacturers, have a greater efficiency (coefficient of performance). But why are bricks still in demand in some areas or buildings. One of the reasons is that the brick stove “breathes”.

This means that when the furnace is heated, moisture is released from the base of the structure. As it cools, the moisture reabsorbs. Due to this, it maintains a normal dew point in the room. It is this indicator that indicates that "a cozy atmosphere is maintained in the house."

The ability of a brick oven to "breathe" not only has a positive effect on human health, but also allows you to feel comfort even at a non-domestic level. During the heat engineering calculation of the house, the temperature indicators during the heating season are set within 18-20 Celsius. At the same time, air humidity should be optimal for health. The furnace for the house provides optimum humidity of air, at a temperature of warming up about 16 degrees Celsius. At this temperature, a person does not feel discomfort, clothes, bedding remain dry. At the same time, in panel houses, when using centralized water heating, even at a temperature of 18 degrees Celsius, excessive air humidity can be felt.

For water heating, the optimal temperature range will be 20-23 Celsius. And for electric heating with infrared emitters, the temperature should be even higher (since they dry the air a lot). It turns out that a brick oven with an efficiency of about 50% will be more profitable, in terms of economy, than modern systems, with indicators of 60-80%. Thus, the savings will be more significant, because the heat loss of the house depends on the difference in temperatures inside and outside the room.

Selecting the size of the furnace surface

Before proceeding with the construction, it is necessary to choose the type and model of the future structure. The main criteria for selection will not be its appearance and ease of construction, but heat transfer (the ability to heat the required area).

When choosing a place for its placement, you should know that the side surfaces of the furnace have the highest heat transfer. This factor determines when choosing a place.

Different models have different forms:

• Rectangular;
• In the shape of the letter T;
• With a bench or kitchen equipment for cooking.

They can serve as a heating device for living rooms, or be a space separator.

For a small house area, you should not choose too massive structures, even if they have a wide range of functions, they will take up too much space and give off too much heat. To warm up the entire furnace, a lot of fuel is needed, while the heat transfer will be too great.

The location of the stove, relative to the living rooms, is also important, and the criterion is the insulation of the whole house.

Oven dimensions table, taking into account the area of ​​​​the room

The structure of the stove for the house, stoves for the house of the classical scheme

The furnace consists of 3 main parts. Furnace body, foundation and chimney leading to the roof.

Furnace diagram example:

The oven consists of:

1. Foundations - foundation;
2. waterproofing material;
3. Shantsy. They are holes, they make you create heating in the lower part of the room. They perform the function of "legs" in the design;
4. Blew;
5. The opening of the air channel, contributes to the heating of the room along the entire height;
6. Door for blower;
7. grate grate;
8. Kindling door;
9. Furnace part;
10. Arch of the furnace part;
11. “Hailo” (Sometimes the vertical part of the firebox with a nozzle is called a hail);
12. door for cleaning;
13. Dusnik pass;
14. Dusnik;
15. Valves regulating the direction of travel;
16. Convector channel;
17. A valve that closes the chimney after heating the furnace. Close after heating, so that the furnace does not cool down.
18. Air outlet door;
19. flue hole;
20. Overlapping (upper part of the furnace);
21. Cutting the chimney under the ceiling;
22. overlap;
23. Chimney on the roof (otter or fluff).

Foundation

masonry base

The base of the masonry is made in oblique hatching from a simple red brick, on a cement-sand mortar. This part is located under the firebox and will not experience high thermal loads. The furnace part is laid out of red ceramic bricks, in combination with refractory (chamotte) material. As a clay mixture with sand is used (sometimes with the addition of fireclay).

A sheet of metal and asbestos is placed in front of the blower door. The thickness of the asbestos layer should be about 5 mm. Its edges should be laid in the masonry of the furnaces. Removal of a metal sheet not less than 250 mm. The edges are tucked, knocking to the floor.

Unlike a cement-sand mortar, a mixture of clay and sand dries rather than sets. Therefore, with the constant action of moisture (especially in winter), the solution soaks. For this reason, some part of the furnace that does not experience high temperatures (up to 300 degrees Celsius) is placed on a cement-sand mortar. Portland cement grade 400 and quartz quarry sand are used.

To ensure the accumulation of soot in the lower part of the channels, the edges of the transitions are made of a rounded appearance. Each new channel must be higher in height than the first (bottom transition). It is much easier to clean soot from the lower channels.

Chimney

It is laid out from red ceramic bricks and ordinary cement-sand mortar. Such a brick is cheaper than fireclay, and the solution is much stronger. We must not forget about cutting the chimney inside the apartment (in the ceilings). The cutting performs fire-fighting functions. A thick layer of bricks warms up more slowly, in the event of a soot fire, and thereby gives less heat load to the ceiling.

The upper chimney pipe (otter), which is located above the roof, performs decorative functions, is a side for rain to drain. From the height of the pipe, the draft in the furnace will hang.

Place for the stove in the house

Its effective operation will depend on the installation location of the furnace. The best location will be the intersection of all the walls in the house. With no larger area, it will be possible to effectively heat the entire space. The closer the oven is to the outlet, the better. The heated air will prevent cold air from entering from outside. In addition, in this case it will be easier to deliver fuel for the furnace.

Factors to consider:

• The structure must be installed so that all side parts can be reached. This is necessary for proper operation and the possibility of full cleaning.
• The stove should not be part of the general foundation of the house, as its foundation will experience completely different types of loads.
• The location must be such that the chimney pipe does not rest against the floor beams. This must be calculated when building a house or when laying the foundation for the furnace.
• In front of the door of the furnace part, there must be a flooring that can withstand fire. (metal sheet or ceramic tile) to prevent accidental fires.

Do-it-yourself equipment and building materials for building a furnace

Brick

There are sources on the Internet claiming that brick for furnaces and refractory are one and the same. In fact, they have only linear dimensions in common. The dimensions of an ordinary single building brick are 250 by 125 by 65 mm., And the standard stove has a size of 230 by 114 by 40 mm. Sometimes there are 230 by 114 by 65 mm. In the construction of the furnace, a special high-quality brick of grade 150 is used. It is resistant to temperatures up to 800 degrees. It would be possible to build an entire furnace from it, but it cools quickly and is not suitable for a full-fledged furnace.

Fireclay bricks are used for laying furnace channels in the furnace part. It withstands high thermal loads. It is used in Swedish ovens or sauna ovens. It is able to withstand temperatures up to 1800 degrees, but in home ovens, this temperature does not happen. It is valued for other qualities - the ability to keep warm for a long time. It does not make sense to build the entire body of the furnace from it, since it is very expensive and has poor strength.

In order to distinguish high-quality fireclay from low-quality fireclay, there is an opinion that it should have a yellowish tint. But such a calculation is not correct, since chamotte can change color depending on its deposit. A sign of high-quality fireclay is the fine grain of the brick. Another way to check is to check for sound. The brick is tapped with a hammer. The sound should be loud and clear, not dull. The last way to determine the quality of the material is radical. The brick is broken in half and looked at the break. Qualitative fireclay is broken into large pieces.

As a substitute for expensive fireclay, clinker bricks are sometimes used in furnace construction. It is that de red ceramic, only it is fired at elevated temperatures. It has greater strength and fire resistance.

White silicate is not suitable for any parts. It is not resistant to thermal stress and absorbs moisture too much.

Sand

Quarry sand of medium fraction is used as sand in a cement-sand mortar. It is sifted through a sieve to sift out large fractions and various organic inclusions. The presence of additional inclusions in this case is very important. All organic impurities will burn out from heating, due to which the masonry will crack and begin to crumble.

Masonry mortar

For laying the furnace, you will have to use several types of mortar based on:

• cement;
• Lime;
• clays;
• Fireclay.

Characterized by its plasticity. It is used in places experiencing high temperature loads. This solution is cheap. Clay can be easily found on almost any land, after cleaning it. It can withstand temperatures up to 1100 degrees Celsius. Such a mixture dries out under the action of high temperature, but becomes wet when exposed to moisture. The stove masonry can always be disassembled and reassembled. But it is impossible to lay the foundation on such a solution.

A mixture of clay with the addition of fireclay is used in furnace parts. Such a solution withstands the highest thermal loads.

The lime mixture is used on the foundation masonry or for the chimney. This solution is strong enough, but can only withstand 450 degrees Celsius.

Cement-lime is even more durable than ordinary lime, but the fire resistance is reduced even more. Used in foundation.

Cement-sand mortar is used for laying a chimney. It has the best indicators of strength and resistance to precipitation. The seams of such a solution will not let smoke through and dig into the room and provide good draft for the firebox.

Brick oven projects examples

Furnace for giving

The average size of a country house is about 15-20 square meters. With a consumption of only 280 bricks, you can build a small stove, 2 by 3 meters in size and with a heat capacity coefficient of 1.90 kW. As mentioned earlier, the furnace part is made of refractory bricks, and the whole body is built from ceramic red.

The figure shows the project of the furnace in the context

Such a simple option can easily be made of bricks with their own hands by every beginner, without even making mistakes.

Scheme with ordering, ordinal instruction

Despite the small dimensions and light weight, it still requires the construction of a separate foundation. The foundation must also withstand the pressure of the chimney.

The thickness of the seam for masonry should be standard 8-10 mm., while the thickness of the seam between refractory bricks should be half as much.

It is better not to change the drawing if you do not have your experience.

For such a furnace, the chimney is laid in a brick floor.

Material Quantity:

You will need about 210 pieces of ordinary brick, about 75 pieces of fireclay. The clay solution will take about 70 liters. Sand 0.4 cu. m. One grate, door for furnace, blower and cleaning. Two smoke dampers. Sheet of metal for the foundation. For waterproofing about 3 meters of roofing material.

The number of bricks is approximate, as there will be a certain percentage of brick battle.

Russian oven

Such a furnace has an efficiency of 80 percent. She has a beautiful appearance. On such an oven you can cook food and there is a stove bench in its design. Laying and erection schemes are quite simple. Its main disadvantage is the design feature, due to which it heats only the upper part of the room. But in our country, it is still popular.

What does it consist of:

• A) the ward part;
• B) niche;
• B) six;
• D) bugle;
• D) stuffy part;
• E) shield;
• G) valve;
• H) chimney pipe;
• I) Repainting the crucible.

Large, small and medium-sized furnaces are built according to their size. Consider a small one, measuring 1270 by 650 by 2380 mm.

Necessary materials:

Brick red about 1620 pieces. The clay solution will take about 1000 liters. From steel, a plug measuring 430 by 340, a valve measuring 300 by 300 (two pieces), a samovar, measuring 140 by 140 (one).

Order of the Russian stove:

Row No. 1 is laid out from solid ceramic bricks, on lime mortar with the addition of cement. There is a formation of the ward part;

Row number 2 to number 4 is laid out well. All sutures are tied. On the one hand, they leave room for baking;

Rows No. 5 to No. 7 erect a vault over the oven;

Row No. 8 to No. 10 a lock is being erected for the vault;

Row number 11 lay out a cold stove. Sand is poured into the remaining space between the stove and the stove;

Row number 12 is laid out "under". It is made from a special brick;

Row No. 13 the beginning of the cooking chamber;

Row No. 14 to 16 are done in the same way as the previous one;

Row No. 17 set the vaults of the mouths;

Row No. 18 laying the walls of the furnace;

Row No. 19 of the wall of the vault;

Row No. 20 with the help of halves of bricks narrow the hole above the hearth;

Row No. 21 align the walls;

Row No. 22 stage of alignment and reduction of the pre-pipe part;

Row No. 23 lay out a samovar;

Rows from No. 24 to No. 32 installation of view valves;

Row No. 32 chimney masonry. In a Russian stove, a chimney is laid in 2 bricks.

Some features can be seen in Fig.

Before you start laying furnaces, you should try to lay out at least one without mortar in order to understand the essence of the schemes. But with effort and patience, everyone can make a stove with their own hands.

Video

In the proposed video you can see the order of the heating furnace:

© When using site materials (quotes, images), the source must be indicated.

The oven is rude and a source of considerable confusion. The fact is that “rude” or “rude” is not a well-established term. In the Western and, partially, in the South Slavic languages, it is either just a house heating and cooking stove, or a wood-burning stove for a summer kitchen with 150-200 bricks. Well, according to Dutch, Swede, bath (!), bell-type (!!) stoves, etc. fly out on a request in Runet.

In fact, a stove with a coarse, or simply a coarse, is a compact heating and cooking stove with a heating shield, separate from the stove according to the thermal cycle, but technologically integrated, i.e. they are built jointly (see also below). Hence the conclusion that there can be no bell-shaped coarse - heating shields for furnaces are always channel. Do-it-yourself rough is built simpler than a channel furnace of equal thermal power with a single thermal cycle, requires fewer materials and weighs less. However, its thermal efficiency (similar to the efficiency for furnaces) is lower. Therefore, rude people are built in seasonally inhabited premises or small houses with good thermal insulation, where some excess fuel consumption in absolute and monetary terms does not hit the budget.

Note: heating and cooking rough brick for 12 kW of heat requires up to 1200 bricks; the same power without a hob - 1200-1350, - 1800-2000, - 2500-3500 bricks.

Varieties

Do-it-yourself grubka can be built with a shield built into the body (structure) of the furnace, and then it looks indistinguishable from a stove, pos. 1 in fig. The rough-plate is compact, the least material-intensive, the lightest, requires a minimum amount of additional construction work, but its thermal power is limited to 10-12 kW, and then with great strain. Therefore, rough-slabs are mostly installed in seasonal dachas (spring-autumn) with occasional trips there in winter, hunting lodges, etc. An important advantage of a rough slab is that it can be built without a foundation directly on the floor if its bearing capacity is at least 500 kgf / sq. m.

Rough with an attached shield (pos. 2) is structurally more complicated and heavier, although a simplified foundation (see below) is also suitable for it, but its thermal power is potentially greater. Rough on wood with an attached shield is capable of developing up to 16-18 kW; on coal - up to 20-22 kW. The diagram of the flue gas current in the rough with a shield is given in pos. 3; the popular Galanka oven was built on this basis. However, you need to know that it makes no sense to build a rough for more than 3 turns: such a furnace with a single cycle will be simpler and cheaper. In addition, during the construction, it will be necessary to pay special attention to some features of the coarse furnaces, which are considered in a significant part of the material of the article.

Note: wood-fired roughening can also be done with a stove bench, see below. It is undesirable to heat such coal, the couch overheats.

Why is rude - rude

Visually, a rough oven can be distinguished from a stove with a later attached shield by the integrity of the structure (pos. 4), but in essence they are one and the same. The calculation of a heat-efficient furnace is very complicated and requires a fairly deep knowledge of heat engineering, and the development of a furnace design based on its results also requires solid practical experience. It is much easier to develop and build a rough because its furnace (firing) part and shield are calculated separately, and then “blinded” together according to the rules for conjugating building structures, taking into account the requirements of heat engineering. Naturally, the thermal efficiency of the resulting device will be lower, because. the interaction of the thermal cycles of the firing part and the shield is not taken into account, namely, due to its consideration, it is possible to increase the efficiency of the single cycle furnace. So, if you live in a region with a harsh climate, it may only make sense for you as a seasonal temporary oven.

Firebox, shield and chimney

The main differences between a rough stove and a solid fuel stove are a more powerful firebox and the absence of a pass (smoke tooth) in the furnace part. The tooth retains hot gases under the hob, which in the summer stove allows you to reduce fuel consumption for cooking. In rough it is not needed, because. excess heat will be used for heating.

The coarse furnace should have a more powerful firebox because the shield provides additional resistance to the flow of flue gases. A chimney with enhanced draft will not help here: the gases in the shield will immediately expand and cool down. Their thermal energy will turn into mechanical energy, which will successfully fly out into the pipe. Figuratively speaking, a firebox with a chimney in a stove with a shield works on the push-pull principle, and “push” here is a firebox of greater power. This is the reason for the special requirements for the firebox and furnace fittings of coarse, see below.

Shields

Depending on the purpose, heating shields for them are of different types. Schemes of heating shields for furnaces are given in fig. below; the fuel part is shown conditionally everywhere.

1. Consistent stroke with short vertical channels. The least material-intensive and the easiest to build. The resistance to the current of gases is the greatest. The compactness and heat efficiency of the furnace are average. The most commonly used scheme;
2. Sequential course with horizontal channels. The mass and dimensions of the furnace are the same as in the previous. case, but building a shield with horizontal channels is much more difficult. Gas flow resistance approx. 1.5 times less. As a result, the heat efficiency of the furnace is higher. It is possible to arrange a couch, i.e. the upper channel does not get very hot;
3. Consistent stroke with long vertical channels. Thermal efficiency is like that of a shield with horizontal channels, technological complexity is like that of a shield with short vertical channels. It occupies the smallest area, but requires a lot of materials and a good foundation (see below) due to the high specific pressure on the support. The best option for a house heating stove for 2-3 rooms, see below;
4. Parallel move. The highest thermal efficiency, the smallest mass per unit of thermal power. The occupied area and technological complexity are the greatest. Use with a fire chamber of the reduced power is possible. Optimum for an extension to an existing slab without altering it.

Note: there are also shields of a series-parallel circuit or chess. The most complex, but also the lightest, resistance to the flow of gases is the least. The only possible option for being rough in a house with a heated attic, see below.

Special Requirements

We repeat: the advantages are rude - compactness and the possibility of building in an existing house without capital construction work. But it is not so easy to place a more powerful furnace in the structure of the furnace in general of the same dimensions, it will quickly become unusable from excessive heat load. If special requirements are not met for:

• Furnace foundation.
• Masonry solutions.
• Ways of laying the structure of the furnace.
• The choice and methods of installation of furnace fittings.

Foundation

The design of the foundation for the rough is given in Fig. The crushed stone pillow without sand filling is leveled into the horizon before pouring. Filling mortar M150 - cement M300 and sand 1: 2. The gap between the rubble foundation and flooring is 30-40 mm. Do not forget to support the cut logs! Leaving their ends hanging is a common but gross mistake. The dimensions of the foundation in the plan should protrude on the contour of the furnace by at least 100-150 mm.

Note: a brick bed on the foundation for the furnace is laid out with dressing in rows and between rows in the same way as the first 2 rows of masonry of the furnace structure, see below.

Solutions

To fold the rough, 3 types of solutions are used, see fig. below. The bed on the foundation and the chimney are laid out on a lime mortar, as it combines sufficient heat and moisture resistance, but the rubble must be laid only on a completely moisture-resistant cement-sand mortar. Sand for clay mortar is highly desirable to take mountain or ravine, with rough grains. Ordinary clay - purchased oven, guaranteed fat content and, most importantly, purity. Self-digging clay, brought to the desired fat content with sand, is of little use for rough masonry.

masonry

For masonry, a stove is used and, if the order (see below) is provided, fireclay bricks; the red worker is suitable for the highest quality - light red in color (completely annealed), without burn marks, warping and swelling. Dry molded brick is absolutely unsuitable. The masonry of the structure is rough. rules:

• If you are an inexperienced stove-maker, each row of masonry is first laid out dry; detected defects in trimming / chipping of bricks are eliminated.
• Before laying on the mortar, each brick is soaked until the release of air bubbles stops. It is impossible to plump all the bricks into a barrel indiscriminately!
• A layer of mortar 5 mm is applied to the bed and poke of the brick being laid.
• The brick to be laid is laid with a smooth movement slightly with an inclination and moved to the previous one so that there are no air bubbles left in the seam.
• The brick is pressed until the seam converges to 3 mm; can't be tapped!
• Between fireclay and ordinary masonry, the initial seam is 8-10 mm; after pressing - 6 mm.
• The seam between bricks and metal embedded parts (see below) is 10 mm.
• Excess mortar squeezed out of the seam is removed with a trowel (trowel).
• The recesses in the seams found after cleaning the excess mortar are filled with mortar by indentation without transverse movements, but not by rubbing!

Those who prefer to learn visually can watch a video tutorial on laying heating and cooking stoves below:

Video: laying a heating and cooking stove

accessories

Fittings and grates for coarse need cast iron; doors and latches - with an installation skirt and holes in it for diagonal wire whiskers. Welded steel or cast iron fittings with lugs for straight whiskers (laid along the corresponding furnace wall) are unsuitable in this case. However, install the doors/latches as in fig. on the right, it’s impossible to be rude; It's not by oven rules at all. For a country Dutch woman 2.5 bricks in plan, which is heated once or twice a season, maybe it will work, but not for being rude.

It is necessary, firstly, to compress the whiskers (wire - galvanized 2-3 mm) with wrapping so that they do not move. Press at first not tight, set at the desired angle (at least 12 mm should remain from the far end of the mustache to the inside of the masonry). Then gently tighten, shake the door/latch lightly. Haven't left? Good. Then, secondly, you need to wrap the skirt tightly with asbestos cord (or basalt fiber), and only now put it in place. You can also watch the following videos about installing accessories in the oven.

Video: installing the oven door

Video: grate and stove

Design examples

The figure below shows the order of a simple coarse for a seasonal dacha or a temporarily inhabited house. The peculiarity is the minimal use of fireclay bricks (highlighted by textured filling), which, generally speaking, is difficult to do without, and a niche above the hob. In cold weather, it speeds up cooking, and if it is already warm enough outside, it does not allow the stove to overheat the room during cooking.

On the trail. rice. - the ordering of a single-burner coarse is also compact and light, but more complicated, with a combined channel system. This option is more for a hunting lodge or a summer house, where they spend the weekend in the winter.

Further on fig. - ordering the house heating and cooking coarse with switching to winter and summer running (two-way). This stove is quite complicated, but quite economical both in winter and in summer. Option for a permanently inhabited cottage or one-room house.

On the trail. rice. - ordering and drawings of the heating rough - fireplace stove (furnace door can be glass) for a house of 2-3 rooms. In a 2-room apartment, this rude is placed in a wall, and in a 3-room apartment - with a facade to the living room and rear to 2 adjacent rooms; the partition between them falls on the back side (back) of the furnace. Agree, 650 bricks for a heating stove for a 3-room house is not much.

Now - in fig. below the scheme and order are rough with a stove bench: a cooking part in the kitchen / hallway with a bathroom; couch - in the living room. This is already a very complex design for an experienced stove-maker. For a firebox in warm weather, the stove bench is covered with a feather bed, etc., so that the room does not overheat, but then the windows in the kitchen / hallway will have to be kept wide open, because. there is no switchover to summer running.

And finally - rough, so to speak, aerobatics, see fig. below: for a house with a heated attic, where an additional shield with staggered channels is located (in the inset at the bottom right). This stove can also be a fireplace stove if you take a glass firebox door. She is 2-way; ZLH on the drawings - the valve of the summer course.

About chimneys

The chimney for the rough must meet all fire safety rules. Here it is only necessary to note that the best chimney for rough is a sandwich one, because. it also does not require additional capital construction work.

Finally

If rough is your first oven (which is quite possible), don't rush to build, model on the table first. Suddenly there is a little extra money - you can buy a kit for modeling furnaces with ordering schemes and plastic bricks on a scale, such are sold. No - bricks can also be cut to scale from foam. Then it is convenient to imitate masonry seams using strips of thick paper or thin cardboard, depending on the selected scale.

The construction of complex variants of furnace structures is a painstaking process that requires great patience, knowledge, skills and financial costs. Therefore, if funds are available, it is recommended to use the help of professionals. And those who want to build a furnace with their own hands should study the advice of experts on choosing a competent project and high-quality equipment.

Performing accurate calculations and strict adherence to the laying scheme will allow you to get a reliable thermal unit and, with its further use, will provide protection against ignition and carbon monoxide poisoning. Therefore, any stove must meet the basic requirements - not to smoke, supply heat and guarantee fire safety. For beginners for construction, it is better to choose a simple model of the device in order to independently carry out high-quality laying of the furnace.

Construction tools and equipment

For installation work are used:

• acute-angled and rectangular sledgehammers;
• plumb;
• brackets (mooring);
• combined trowel;
• hammer;
• rammers;
• putty knife;
• level, square and tape measure;
• meter (folding);
• seam liners, markings for openings, templates for channels;
• brick and clay (red);
• cement;
• sand;
• grate;
• doors, stove (cast iron) and latches;
• aluminum and steel fittings (corners and strips).

Procedure

1. First stage.

To verify the accuracy of the calculations, first lay the masonry according to the finished scheme of the unit, but without using the mixture. The furnace is mounted on a foundation that complies with all technical safety rules. To do this, they dig a pit (depth 1 m), where sand is poured (layer 11 cm), and concrete is loaded from above. After that, on the hardened surface, following the instructions, a quadrangle of bricks is placed, which will serve as the basis for the furnace. Using the level, check the horizontal masonry. A couple of bricks are moistened with water so that they are easier to bond with the mortar, they are placed on the mixture and pressed down (slightly), and its excess is removed with a spatula and the further construction process is continued according to the same principle.

A roofing material (triple layer) is laid on the first level, which performs a waterproofing function. Before performing the 2nd row, a blower door for the oven, wrapped in wet asbestos cardboard, is attached with special brackets. The third level should consist of fireclay bricks, here a grate is placed above the blower. The laying of building material on the 4th tier takes place on the edge. A chimney is built inside the furnace. On the back surface of the device, the masonry is made without a mixture so that its edges protrude slightly from the main row, which will facilitate the cleaning of the smoke passage hole from debris.

The firebox door is wrapped with an asbestos cord and fixed on the 5th tier with bricks (temporarily) and wire. The material at this level of masonry, as in the main part of the furnace, is located flat (along the contour of the previous layer). The edges of the sixth row of the device are hewn, the grate is fixed flush, and the bricks are placed on the edge. It is recommended to wipe the chimney with a damp cloth. Brick (at level 7) is laid out flat, and on the back wall of the furnace a couple of pieces are attached to the edge. The furnace door is covered with the eighth tier of masonry.

2. Second stage.

Further, work on the furnace continues according to the finished scheme until the beginning of the twelfth row. On this tier, a cast iron slab is mounted on the mortar (with a slight shift back), and an asbestos cord runs along the perimeter of the masonry, which is covered with corners from above. The pans are supported by strips of steel inserted into the walls of the cooking chamber and strengthened from the fourteenth row, through the next 2, to the twentieth. On this tier are placed: a corner, a frame and an exhaust channel made of sheet iron. Before installing the chimney, the gap between its lining and the ceiling is filled with asbestos.

3. The third stage.

After making the thermal unit with your own hands, the chimney is cleaned, temporary bricks are removed and painting work begins. The oven surface is dried before plastering and lime whitewashing. A mixture of clay, asbestos, sand and cement is used as a coating. First, according to the instructions, a liquid layer of the composition is applied to the outside of the masonry, and after it dries, a denser layer is applied. Whitewash the stove with lime mortar and salt. Drying oil or oil dyes are not suitable for coating masonry, since when heated they emit vapors that are harmful to health.

1. When building a furnace with your own hands, strong and properly fired bricks should be used, with a smooth surface and without various damages, since its functioning and duration of use will depend on their quality. The strength of this material is determined independently. To do this, using a hammer, you need to break one brick, if it breaks up into large pieces, then it is suitable for use in the masonry process. In the area where the fire is made, a refractory type is used that can withstand strong heat.

2. The reliability of the furnace design depends on the optimal ratio of sand and clay in the solution. A composition with a plastic and thick consistency is considered to be of high quality.

3. The thickness of the seams - from 3 to 5 mm.

4. Pre-prepared recesses in the bricks, designed to install the grate, dampers and doors, provide the latter with a longer operation. The depth of the grooves must correspond to the thickness of the casting.

5. Bricks on the tiers of masonry are placed as close as possible to each other. During the construction of the furnace, the procedure is constantly checked against the finished scheme of the device, which allows you to control its exact observance.

6. The gap between the masonry and the floor is hidden by installing an iron pre-furnace sheet or a plinth. To protect the corners of the structure from possible damage, it is advised to attach protective devices to the frames (using bolts).

7. It is permissible to start operation 14 days after completion of installation work. Hardening of the unit is recommended to start with the burning of thin chips to prevent cracking. After the end of the furnace process, following the operating instructions, the chimney is closed with the help of valves.

Cost of materials and labor

Self-construction of the furnace is much cheaper compared to the services of a skilled worker. The minimum price for the work of the master starts from 25,000 rubles and is negotiated individually at the conclusion of the contract. Payment for work and the cost of laying for various types of furnaces are determined taking into account their volume, design features and location in the house. The purchase price of the building material and its quantity required for the construction of the selected type of structure, design and color scheme are the main indicators in determining the final payment. An important role is played by the types of cladding. Finishing with tiles costs 1200–2500 rubles per 1 m2 (excluding the amount for masonry equipment).

Average cost of building supplies:

The cost of a brick varies from 20 to 150 rubles per piece. The difference in prices is also present when buying castings and other masonry materials. If a door for a Russian-made firebox costs 400 rubles, then an imported one costs 4,000. One bag of ready-made mixture for building a stove (consumption for 35 bricks) is 400. The estimated price of masonry is determined only after a thorough study of the future design, taking all measurements.

During the construction of the stove, it may be necessary to purchase additional equipment. The cost calculation also takes into account the cost of delivery and unloading of masonry materials, which is assigned by carriers.

The house will cost less than installing a stone stove with your own hands, since the cost of stone is higher than brick. If there is no desire to build a brick stove or no experience, then you can install an iron stove, for example, a potbelly stove. However, installing a brick oven is not too difficult, as it seems at first glance, the most important thing is to have a certain amount of patience. The preparatory stage of construction provides for the construction of the foundation.

The foundation for the furnace must be laid separately from the foundation for the room.

This is necessary to prevent deformation of the furnace foundation from the main one as a result of raising heaving soil under the building. Next, a furnace is erected using red solid bricks.

What tools and materials should be used to build brick ovens

Figure 1. Ordering a brick oven.

You can prepare a mortar for masonry in a special container. In any case, you should have a building level on hand for even masonry, since each row should have a flat surface. Among the main materials for preparing the furnace for masonry, it is worth highlighting:

• sand;
• clay;
• red solid brick;
• ruberoid;
• grate grate;
• pipe;
• tree;
• gravel;
• cement.

Before laying the stove, a carefully designed scheme for building a brick stove should be prepared, for example, as shown in the figure (Fig. 1). Next, immediately begin with the preparation of masonry mortar. Concrete should not be used for this. Usually clay is mined from a depth of half a meter, then it is cleaned so that it does not contain impurities with stones. The solution should be prepared using clean sand.

Figure 2. The sequence of actions when laying bricks: A - spoon row; B - tychkovy row.

Clay must be softened before using it. To do this, it is placed in water for two or three days to soften it. In the process of preparing the solution, the clay is constantly stirred, adding sand to it. Sand with clay can be taken in equal proportions, that is, 1/1.

If the solution is prepared with high quality, then it is homogeneous without various pebbles and lumps. The quality of the solution must firmly ensure an acceptable level of reliability of the furnace, its strength. If you prepare a large volume of mortar at once, then if it is not necessary to use it, it loses its useful properties, so the masonry mortar is prepared several times during the masonry process.

For high-quality laying of the furnace, it is necessary to make a preliminary layout of bricks, which allows you to check the quality of the first row on a separate foundation. Carrying out all work should be based on referring to the scheme of the developed design of the furnace. Careful use of the solution allows you to carefully cover each seam.

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How to start building a foundation slab for a brick oven

Figure 3. Types of brickwork.

A carefully designed furnace according to the corresponding finished drawing is laid out on a separately erected foundation, as noted above. The principle of the foundation slab should be the same as for the main building. The foundation begins to be poured with the preparation of the foundation pit below the depth at which soil freezing begins, it can be about 1 meter.

You can fill up the bottom of the pit using wet sand, laying a layer of broken brick or stone on it. The size of this layer should be 15 cm high, and crushed stone is poured on top of it. To create a removable formwork, specially prepared boards are used, hammered together. The formwork must be made strong, as it must withstand pouring concrete. The level of quality of concrete pouring will be decisive for the reliability of the entire structure.

After 2 or 3 days, the formwork is removed from the hardened concrete pour, and its surface is covered with tar, as well as roofing material. All layers of these materials should provide maximum reliable waterproofing of the foundation slab. The remaining space between the foundation and the ground should be covered with sand with coarse grains or a layer of gravel.

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How to make a brick oven in the house with your own hands correctly

Figure 4. Chimney masonry.

Tips for laying a brick oven.

The principle of laying the furnace can be based on the following algorithm of actions:

1. Foundation plate device.
2. Heating device.
3. Laying the furnace in rows in accordance with the ordering scheme.
4. Grate grate device.
5. Fitting bricks.
6. Furnace door device.

Among the recommendations for laying the stove in the house, a number of basic ones can be distinguished. For example, a grate should be mounted in the oven without it resting against the inner walls of the oven, otherwise, when heated, the grate expands and deforms the masonry of the walls. The foundation of the furnace must be arranged with waterproofing. The foundation base must protrude at least 10 cm.

When making rows of bricks, be sure to carefully fit them to each other so that there are no gaps between the bricks (Fig. 2), since they must reliably block the smoke channel from the rear wall of the furnace. When covering the cracks with clay, they will still not be processed at the proper level.

The bricks are shifted from the blower by 3 cm to the side, and the left bar is shifted forward by 1.5 cm. The tank door is usually wrapped in two layers with asbestos cord at all points of contact. The furnace door is fixed with three layers of galvanized wire. The use of high quality bricks will help to avoid the formation of cracks in the brickwork.

Bricks must be moistened with water before laying, and they are laid on the foundation without mortar to create a pattern. It will help to check the quality of laying brick corners and walls of the future furnace design. All corners and walls are made straight and even, for which they use the building level.