How to make internal insulation of a country house. We make the country house warmer Eat and how to insulate the walls in the country

It makes sense to insulate both the outer door and the interior doors, especially those leading to cold utility rooms or a hallway. Our main task is close the gaps, which sooner or later form between the door and the frame. And this can be dealt with in fairly simple ways:

• put seals (this option is suitable if the gaps are small);
• if it blows from under the door - fix a special sealing brush on it from below (buy a finished product or make it yourself from thick rubber or other improvised materials)
• hang a thick curtain.

If you need a fast and efficient way, then the last option is the most successful. The main thing is that the curtain material should be really dense (summer chintz curtains will not save us from the cold). Such an element of insulation can become a bright and original part of the decor of the room. Well, if you care a little, then you can even use old woolen or wadded blankets.

Here, perhaps, someone will contemptuously wrinkle their nose: “Fie, old-fashioned!” - well, sometimes it’s precisely such old-fashioned things that work better than modern “bells and whistles”. I will give an example from practice. In my new home, I have a large (about 1.5m x 2m) opening in the wall that separates the warm living space from the cool hallway. Doors or any other fundamental structures in this opening are not yet included in my plans, but somehow I need to save the heat ... I found an old plush curtain of just the right size. Many people told me: “What is the use of it? All the heat will still go into the gap between the wall and the ceiling, and the curtain will not hold anything. But since none of the advisers offered anything better, this curtain “worked” safely all last winter. The temperature difference in the rooms that she shared could reach 3-4 degrees. And in my rural country house for the winter, the front door to the warm (residential) part was always hung with a wadded blanket - extremely simple, but effective.

Ceiling

I will say a few words about. Today it is considered almost mandatory. Meanwhile, take a look at the old village houses - do you find many insulated roofs there? And in a heated hut and in severe frost it is warm. Why?

Roof insulation makes sense if the second floor (attic) is residential. If it's just an attic, then you should focus on insulation of the ceiling (ceilings). Even those who are not familiar with physics are probably aware that warm air is lighter than cold air, and therefore rises. And leaks into the atmosphere through the cracks in the ceiling, if any. The ceiling, which does not allow heat to "escape" from the house, is one of the most important points of good insulation.

Perhaps the most economical and simple option would be foam. But, from my point of view, its advantages and merits end there. It is suitable if you need to insulate quickly and quite inexpensively (however, I would not recommend saving on the quality of the material and choosing foam with a minimum density; optimally - PSB-S 25).

I will not go into details - you can safely devote a separate article to this topic. I can only say: if you want better insulation, buy styrofoam boards with milled edges- they overlap. Attempts to tightly fit the usual smooth edges of the slabs are doomed to failure: there will still be gaps between them, which, when the wooden supporting structures shrink, can also increase. Well, through these cracks, of course, precious heat leaves.

Is there an alternative? Within the limited budget - I'm afraid not (if there are builders-specialists who will correct me, I will be extremely grateful: for me this issue is of great practical value. Earthfill, which was used in old village houses, is now practically not used.

Sometimes you can find recommendations to close the ceiling from the inside penofol(options: isocom, energy flex and the like). It is really fast, simple and relatively inexpensive (depending on the brand of material and its manufacturer). But (the subjective opinion of an amateur - do not judge strictly) I still think that this is not the best option for a living space ... Who tried it - let's discuss it in the comments, share your experience and impressions. I especially want to find out how much such insulation can affect the level of humidity in the room (does condensation form on such a ceiling?).

Floor

Cold floors are a problem for most wooden houses. Today there are many ways to radically solve this problem, but this time, as you remember, we are talking about the most simple and cheap options. Therefore, we will not consider the topic, for example. What then can be done?

The first is to insulate the living quarters around the perimeter: no matter how well the floor is fitted and the plinth is selected, there is a gap between the floor and the wall. If the basement is not insulated, cold air will penetrate through these gaps from below. And this is where penofol helps us: we fix the strips of this material (with a foil layer inside the room) with a furniture stapler (or small nails, if there is no stapler) so that one edge goes to the wall and the other lies on the floor. Quickly, simply - and the room becomes noticeably warmer. Check it out!

Penofol is also used for continuous thermal insulation of the floor (here someone already does it: someone fixes it from the side of the basement, someone uses it instead of a substrate for flooring, but I heard only positive reviews from both).

The second is the floor surface. Homespun rugs in village houses, in addition to a decorative function, also have a purely practical function: this is additional insulation. So if there is carpets, rugs, runners and rugs- lay them on the floor, and you will be warm. Read more about this in the article.

Dacha is a favorite place for out-of-town family leisure in the summer. With the onset of cold weather, the house becomes less attractive for long visits. This is due to the peculiarities of the design of country estates, especially the construction of the period of the late 80s of the last century and up to the early 2000s. Then the insulation of the country house was not among the priorities.

Video about the insulation of a country house

Fight for heat: basic rules

With a general improvement in the quality of life and the advent of new technologies, the situation has changed. The cottage easily turns into a house where you can create comfort at any time of the year. In addition, the use of special materials significantly reduces heat loss and contributes to significant energy savings.

The factor of increased consumption of fuel, gas or electricity often keeps you from spending time in the country after the start of the heating season. Few people want to heat the street and shiver from the cold in their own house, which does not want to warm up in any way.

When planning insulation work, you should pay attention to several significant features that will save time and money:

• external insulation is more effective than internal insulation;
• indoor work can lead to a reduction in usable area;
• sealing windows, entrance doors, floors, cracks and cracks reduces heat loss;
• an integrated approach will provide better results.

Thermal insulation of all structural elements of the building will improve performance. If, for example, the country house is insulated from the inside, but at the same time the cold is allowed to penetrate through the windows or the floor, the efforts will be in vain.

At the same time, excessive sealing can lead to poor ventilation and a decrease in the amount of oxygen. Therefore, the approach should be not only rational, but also competent.

One of the signs of poor insulation of country windows is frost on the inner surface of the glass.

It is important to know:
To insulate windows, it is enough to “plant” the glass on the sealant and press it tightly to the frame with glazing beads. Puttying cracks and painting windows will enhance the effect.

External insulation - an effective solution

How to insulate a country house, everyone decides independently, based on the available resources. Internal work traditionally costs less, but the loss of space is inevitable. This is important for a small house where every square centimeter counts.

But properly executed insulation of a country house from the outside is a guarantee of a successful solution to a difficult task. It should be noted that during such work it is not enough to install directly insulating material. You will have to resort to finishing work using certain technologies.

Most often, the following materials are used for external insulation:

• expanded polystyrene;
• mineral wool.

Mineral wool is an excellent insulation for wooden houses. After installation, it is advisable to sheathe the building with clapboard.

The crate is made in accordance with the width of the material. It is necessary to ensure a tight fit of the insulation

Work on the external thermal insulation of the house consists of several stages, which are important to follow:

1. The device of a wooden or metal crate, the thickness of which should be 2-5 cm more than the thickness of the material.
2. Insulation lining.
3. Formation of a waterproofing layer - suitable roofing material or dense polyethylene.
4. Creation of a ventilation system. The slat frame is attached to the crate and performs two functions at once: it leaves an “air cushion” between the waterproofing and the exterior finish; serves as a basis for fastening facade elements.
5. Finishing and decorative work using the selected material.

This is one method of outdoor insulation that can be called classic. It is allowed to apply heat-insulating material directly to the wall, from above it is covered with waterproofing, then - crate. It also serves as a frame for mounting siding or lining.

It is important to know:
A person begins to feel discomfort if the walls are more than 6 ° C colder than the air inside the room. The optimum temperature difference is 3 °C.

At the same time, there are more expensive insulation technologies: in particular, on a cross frame. In this case, the material is laid in two layers according to a special scheme.

The waterproofing layer is mounted without damage to the material and with a high degree of reliability - otherwise moisture will penetrate

The choice of method largely depends on the climatic features of the area. But in any case, the freezing of the heat-shielding layer should not be allowed. Such an unfavorable phenomenon is possible with the penetration of moisture into the material. Expanded polystyrene insulation and mineral wool have a porous structure and are exposed to water. Waterproofing and ventilation in the insulation system play a very important role. This must not be forgotten.

Work inside the house: a rational approach

Floors, windows, doors, ceilings and exposed walls are excellent conductors of cold air. Therefore, only outdoor work is not enough. The house should be like a box in which there is not a single crack. How to insulate a country house from the inside is a truly burning issue that requires an integrated approach.

First of all, you need to take care of the warm field. The order of work is as follows:

• frame device directly on the floor screed;
• filling the "cells" with insulation;
• laying the floor.

It is important to know:
For floor insulation, manufacturers offer a wide range of materials: expanded polystyrene, expanded clay, mineral wool, fiberglass, etc.

Will help to resist the effects of frost sealing windows and doors. To do this, a thorough examination of frames, loot is carried out, and work is carried out to eliminate cracks and gaps as much as possible. Surface painting performs not only a decorative function - there is an additional tightening of cracks.

Insulation of entrance doors with the help of polystyrene is considered effective - the creation of a kind of "pie" stuffed with insulating material.

The insulation is laid directly on the floor screed. The technology provides for the creation of a frame for laying the surface

When designing the insulation of a country house, you should carefully consider the mandatory internal work, including wall insulation. The technology is in many ways similar to the order of external insulation:

• material laying;
• vapor barrier device;
• provision of ventilation;
• Finishing work.

In this case, the usable area is lost, but the work is not as laborious and costly as with external insulation.

Insulation of the roof and attic - how to keep warm

A complete answer to the question of how to insulate a summer country house will not be given until the roof ceases to be a heat leakage channel. As you know, when heated, air rises. And it must not be allowed to volatilize freely. Especially if the roof is with a residential attic, and during the construction of the cottage, the features of the insulation of the room, which is most vulnerable to cold, were not taken into account.

Roof insulation is necessary in the presence of exploited attic space

If there are no attic spaces, in many cases it is enough to insulate the ceiling according to the same principle as insulating the walls from the inside. Thermal insulation of the roof, if necessary, is carried out in a similar way using traditional materials.

After completing the entire range of works, we can confidently say: the problem of how to insulate the cottage has been successfully solved.

It is important to know:
The performance of work on the insulation of the ceiling or roof is associated with increased danger. It is imperative to protect your eyes with special goggles from dust and particles of material.

In conclusion, it should be noted that the mass availability of building, finishing, insulating and other materials has created a deceptive illusion. For example, you can do the insulation of the cottage with your own hands. It is enough to get acquainted with the main technological stages and the sequence of work. But this is far from true.

Even a small house is an engineering and architectural object. And when planning actions aimed at improving performance, one cannot do without consulting an experienced specialist. A wrong decision made on your own can result in a lot of problems and significant financial losses. Professionals who have been working in the construction and repair services market for many years will provide the necessary consulting assistance and help in choosing the most suitable material.

Timely taking care of the insulation and heating of the country house, you can relax and work in the country in comfortable conditions at any time of the year

Equally important is the issue of recommended technologies. Warming a summer house is a rather complex multi-stage process. Even with a great desire to do everything yourself, there is not always time and opportunity to focus on labor-intensive construction work that requires a very careful approach. Therefore, the help of real masters of their craft will come in handy.

Greetings. This time you will learn how to properly insulate a country house. As an example, consider the popular methods of thermal insulation of wooden cottages and building objects made of concrete blocks. The types of buildings for the review were not chosen by chance, since most of the dachas were built from these materials.

I am sure that the methods proposed in the article will be of interest to owners of old country houses. However, if your cottage is new, but not warm enough, you will also find a lot of useful information for yourself.

Basic information about the insulation of country houses

Proper thermal insulation of a country house begins with an analysis of heat loss using special equipment - a thermal imager

Insulation of a country house has the following goals:

• Ensuring the comfort of living;
• Reducing the costs associated with heating;
• Ensuring a long service life of the facility without the need for regular refurbishment.

From the above points, the following conclusion can be drawn - the dacha should be energy efficient.

What is an energy efficient home? This is a construction site where, thanks to high-quality thermal insulation, an optimal microclimate is combined with low energy consumption.

In accordance with SanPiN 2.1.2.100200, the following requirements are imposed on the microclimate of residential premises during the cold season:

• the average air temperature should be from 18 ° C to 24 ° C;
• relative air humidity - within 35-40%;
• air flow speed is not more than 0.15 m/s.
• the surface temperature of the walls is lower than the air temperature in the room by no more than 4 °C;
• the temperature of the floor surface is lower than the air temperature in the room by no more than 2 °C.

Do you think that the microclimate in the walls of your dacha meets the listed requirements? If it doesn’t match, then it’s time to insulate the country house.

Instructions for warming the cottage depends on the following factors:

• The nature of the operation of the facility (seasonal or all-weather);
• Materials used in construction;
• Type of glazing of the object;
• The presence of technological errors made during the design and / or construction;
• The type and efficiency of the heating system used;
• The budget of funds allocated for the implementation of the project.

The thermal insulation of a building object can affect individual structural elements, for example, ceiling walls or foundations, or it can be carried out in a complex way. Despite the fact that the price of complex insulation is significantly higher than the cost of separately performed work, it is the integrated approach that provides the best result.

Warming of a wooden house

Wooden dachas are insulated in such a way that the lumber retains the optimal degree of moisture, does not rot and does not collapse. Conventionally, the thermal insulation of a wooden cottage can be external and internal. Which of these varieties is more preferable?

External (external) wall insulation prevents them from freezing. In addition, the dew point shifts towards the outer edge of the wall. In order to reduce the formation of condensate, a ventilated facade is installed. As a result, the wood remains dry and does not rot, which favorably affects the resource of the house.

Thermal insulation of load-bearing walls from the inside of the house reduces the useful area of ​​​​the room, which is especially noticeable if the cottage is small. In addition, by insulating the inner surface of the walls, you will provoke freezing of wood in winter and getting wet with the onset of the warm season. As a result, the wood will rot and break down intensively.

The conclusion can be drawn as follows - we do the internal thermal insulation of a wooden building only in combination with external insulation. In extreme cases, we are limited only to external insulation.

Thermal insulation of wooden walls

One of the most correct instructions for insulating wooden walls involves the installation of a ventilated facade with the laying of heat-insulating material. The advantage of this solution is the absence of condensate and the possibility of using thick insulation materials.

The following materials are required for installation work:

• Guide metal profiles 100×40 mm;
• vapor barrier film;
• Slabs of dense mineral wool (thickness similar to the width of a metal profile or will have to be laid in two layers);
• Double-sided tape;
• Windproof coating;
• Wooden blocks 50 × 20 mm;
• Vinyl siding.

The instructions for installing a ventilated facade with a heater are as follows:

• With the help of a plumb line and spirit level, the curvature of the walls was determined;

In our case, the attic bulges slightly forward relative to the first floor.

• At intervals of 60 cm from each other, leveling pads made of pieces of plywood were fixed on the surface of the walls in order to compensate for level differences;

• On the surface of the wall, vapor barrier strips were fixed with a stapler;

The vapor barrier has 2 sides - one smooth, the other rough. We direct the smooth side outward, and the rough side inward. We fix the vapor barrier horizontally, so that the upper strip protrudes onto the lower one and, thus, the condensate drain is ensured.

• Guide profiles were vertically fixed on top of the vapor barrier;

The profiles are mounted on leveling plywood pads, which are easy to feel under the vapor barrier layer. As a result, the guides should be spaced apart from each other by a distance of 60 cm.

• We insert mineral wool slabs into the gaps between the guides;

• On the outside of the guides we glue pieces of double-sided tape;
• We line the windproof coating, temporarily fixing it on double-sided tape;

• On top of the windproof coating, we stuff a crate of wooden slats;

We fix the crate in such a way that the rails are fixed on the metal rails that were used in the manufacture of the supporting frame.

• Vinyl siding was installed over the wooden battens.

Are there other ways to insulate wooden walls?

Due to the ease of implementation, polyurethane foam spraying is becoming increasingly popular. A two-component mixture under pressure is sprayed onto the wall, after which it polymerizes and forms a foam layer. Despite the obvious advantages, the method has a significant drawback - spraying equipment is expensive, and therefore such insulation cannot be done by hand.

Polyurethane foam is an airtight compound that will prevent the wood from breathing. Therefore, there is a possibility that the walls from the outside will rot and collapse.

Thermal insulation of the floor and ceilings in a wooden house

Floor insulation in a wooden house can be performed using various materials. For example, I recommend laying expanded clay backfill, mineral wool or crushed foam between the lag.

But the method of floor insulation you have chosen must meet the following requirements:

• Structural elements of the floor, including logs and boardwalk, must not rot;
• Filling the space between the lag should be unattractive to rodents;
• The thermal insulation layer must be fireproof and non-toxic.

As an example, I offer instructions for the correct installation of a heat-insulated floor pie.

The easiest way to perform thermal insulation of the floor on the logs during the construction of the cottage. If the insulation is carried out in an already operated house, the flooring will have to be completely removed.

After access to the logs is open, it is necessary in several layers, with a break to dry each previous layer, to cover the wooden parts with an antiseptic and fire protection.

After the impregnation has completely dried, the space between the logs is lined with a windproof coating. Such a measure will eliminate the likelihood of the formation of cold bridges. Wind protection is necessarily attached to the logs with brackets from a construction stapler.

Insulating material is laid or poured into the prepared space between the lags.

Traditionally, mineral wool is used as insulation. But such material, over time, can become a haven for rodents. Therefore, I recommend using a dense expanded clay backfill with a core diameter of 3-5 mm. This backfill is produced by Knauf for the installation of dry screeds.

After the insulating material between the logs is laid out, the top layer of the vapor barrier is laid. Vapor barrier strips, as well as wind protection, should be lined with an overlap so that there are no gaps. A boardwalk is mounted on top of the finished cake.

Floor insulation is performed similarly to floor insulation. But for these purposes, materials with low weight are used, mainly mineral wool or expanded polystyrene plates.

When arranging ceilings, a vapor barrier is placed at the bottom of the pie in order to prevent the penetration of moist warm air from the room.

The windshield is lined over the heat-insulating cake in order to serve as a barrier to cold air from the attic.

Insulation of a country house from aerated concrete or silicate blocks

Unlike wooden dachas, objects made of brick or lightweight concrete can be thermally insulated both from the outside and from the inside. And in this case, external insulation is an order of magnitude more effective than internal.

But the best results are guaranteed by complex insulation, during which the thermal conductivity of walls, blind areas, floors, ceilings and roofing systems is reduced.

Wall insulation

For thermal insulation of walls made of bricks, concrete blocks and similar building materials, cellular polystyrene boards can be used; mineral wool, application of foamed polyurethane.

Affordable price is a good reason to buy styrofoam boards

Of the listed materials, I especially recommend expanded polystyrene plates. Using this type of insulating material, you can not only reduce the thermal conductivity of load-bearing walls, but also subsequently plaster the building, giving the facade an attractive appearance.

Installation of expanded polystyrene plates with subsequent plastering is carried out in accordance with the following scheme.

For the thermal insulation device, the following materials will be required:

• Cellular polystyrene plates with a thickness of 150-200 mm (the thickness is selected depending on the climatic conditions of the region);

• Dish-shaped dowels (umbrellas) in the amount of 4-5 pieces for each plate;
• The initial bar is a profile for holding the plates of the first row in the required position;
• Alkali-resistant reinforcing glass mesh;
• Tile adhesive or special glue for polystyrene foam;
• Plaster mixture or tile adhesive for making a reinforcing layer;
• Plaster mixture for finishing.

The instructions for insulating the walls of a modern dacha from aerated concrete blocks or silicate bricks are as follows:

• Scaffolding is being assembled, from which it is easier and safer to work than from a stepladder;
• With a chisel from the surface of the walls, the influx of masonry mortar is knocked off;

• The surface is primed in one layer with a penetrating primer to strengthen the porous base, and in one layer with a film-forming primer for better adhesion;

The primer can be applied with a roller or even with a brush. But, given the large surface area and application in two layers, I recommend using a spray gun to work with the primer.

• Indicative cords are fixed along the level, along the edges of the wall, along which the insulation slab will be laid;

• Using a laser level or a spirit level with a plumb line, the location of the upper part of the plates in the first row is determined and a corresponding mark is placed along the perimeter of the walls;

• We knead the adhesive solution in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions and, after preparation, hold for 5 minutes;
• We apply glue to the plate;

• We install the first plate from the corner, so that its edge protrudes beyond the corner by a distance equal to the thickness of the plate;

• The second slab is placed from the corner close to the lining edge of the first slab, as shown in the figure;
• In a similar way, the entire first row is laid out along the perimeter of the walls;
• When laying each row, we check the horizontal and vertical position of the plates with a level;

• We begin to lay the second row also from the corner. The slabs must lie offset from each other as shown in the figure;
• The third row is laid with an offset relative to the second row, but so that it coincides with the plates in the first row;

• The next rows are installed in a similar way, so that as a result a jagged bundle is formed at the corner;

• We combine the plates with window openings, cutting the foam, as shown in the figure;

• If during installation there are gaps between some plates, we immediately fill them with mounting foam to prevent the appearance of cold bridges;
• After the foam dries, remove the excess with a sharp knife;

• Dish-shaped dowels are installed along the edges and in the center of the slab, so that their caps are recessed into the surface of the foam;

• Slopes are strengthened with reinforcing fiberglass and plaster mixture;
• The recesses for the dowels are filled with a mixture;

• Wall cladding is reinforced with fiberglass mesh and plaster mixture;

• Decorative plaster can be applied over the dried base layer.

Floor insulation

In previous instructions, he talked about how the floor is insulated on wooden logs. This technique can also be applied in brick houses, where the floors are laid on logs. But what if the house has a ready-made concrete screed?

I offer the following options:

• Installation of microlags with subsequent laying of thermal insulation and plywood flooring;
• The device of a dry screed from GVL with expanded clay backfill;
• Laying an additional layer of expanded clay concrete;
• Laying an additional layer of polystyrene concrete;
• Installation of underfloor heating systems for subsequent use as an auxiliary heating system.

If the level of the subfloor allows you to raise the surface by 5-10 cm, I recommend laying a layer of expanded clay concrete over the lighthouses. The advantage of this solution is low thermal conductivity and high strength of the material. Again, laying expanded clay concrete is much easier and faster than working with ordinary concrete, if only because the ready-made mortar is much lighter.

For dachas, the problem of rodents is relevant, which gnaw holes in the insulation layer and feel comfortable in the underground. Expanded clay concrete, after gaining brand strength, is practically not inferior to heavy concrete in terms of hardness, and rodents will not settle in such a subfield.

Another option that I personally tested in my house is the device of the “Warm floor” system based on infrared film emitters. This option is preferable for cottages that are used seasonally. If you decide to live in a country house, in winter it will be possible to quickly heat the floor, which means comfortable conditions for temporary residence will be provided.

Film infrared flooring is a versatile solution that can be laid under tiles, under carpet or under laminate. The only important condition for the uninterrupted operation of the film heater is a perfectly even base without a pronounced microrelief.

Why do I not recommend underfloor heating based on hot water equipment and? Most dachas and country houses in the province do not have a stable connection to the water supply. Again, the wiring in an old house may not be able to handle the load of a water heater.

Conclusion

Now you know how external insulation of low-rise buildings is performed. I am sure that the proposed instructions and recommendations will come in handy when arranging your dacha.

If you have any questions, ask them in the comments to read - I will definitely answer everything. By the way, maybe you will find answers to your questions by watching the video in this article.

To save money when warming a country garden house, you can:

• make the thermal insulation of a country house on your own without involving employees, which will reduce the budget for this event by at least half;
• apply cheap heaters and simple methods of their installation, or use what lies under your feet as thermal insulation.

Country houses can have a different design - this is either a wooden frame sheathed with clapboard, or a brick house on a massive foundation, or .... Therefore, the main ways of heat leakage can be different.

Consider how to prevent heat from leaving, how to make a country house warmer, not expensive, without serious mistakes that would lead to negative consequences and cost overruns.

Windows, doors

A draft, if any, will carry the most heat. Therefore, old windows and doors are the main sources of cold in an ordinary country house.

The best solution to the issue of windows and doors is to replace them with new modern systems, preferably multi-chamber ones. But if such a solution is not suitable for the cost, then everything possible must be done first of all with windows and doors to save heat.

There should be two glasses in the frame, you need to try to turn the frame into a kind of double-glazed window. It is necessary to take out the glasses, put them on the sealant, press them tightly with glazing beads - to make their joint with the frame completely airtight - for the outer and inner glass.

After that, using the same sealant, or cheaper window putty, in combination with matter, gauze, close up all the cracks in the frames, opening sashes. Moreover, the termination must be performed both from the inside of the room and from the outside.


Bringing the windows to any acceptable state will immediately reduce heat loss by more than a dozen percent.

Doors must be closed only on the seal. Slot seals are sold (inserted into a special slot in the loot) or self-adhesives, which are easier to apply.

The simplest wooden or metal door, as a rule, has insufficient thermal resistance. It is not difficult to increase it by gluing 5 cm of dense foam or extruded polystyrene foam to the canvas. Then the insulation can simply be pasted over with any panels, dermontine to give aesthetics.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling in the country - how to do it

The next most important ceiling. Warm air rises, without insulation of the ceiling it will warm the space. Which can't be heated cheaply.

Therefore, it is necessary to lay a sufficient layer of insulation on the ceiling. Which? At least 20 cm of mineral wool is recommended.

If this does not seem like a cheap undertaking, then you can, of course, replace it with leaves, sawdust, hay, straw, in general, “fluffy” organic matter, but preferably mixed with lime, so that living creatures and bacteria do not start there. It must be laid in a layer of 30 cm or more evenly over the ceiling. From above, press down with plywood, boards, for movement.


You can simplify such an event by laying 15 cm of foam, in 2 - 3 layers with offset seams in the layers. Styrofoam is dangerous in case of fire and is not suitable for indoor use (wooden ceiling is not fire resistant)

Under the insulation in the attic of a country house, you need to put a vapor barrier - a polyethylene film in a continuous layer - otherwise the accumulation of condensed moisture is possible in the structure.

Creation of non-cold floors

The floors in a country house are usually wooden, single-layer, and they cool the entire structure very significantly, passing heat into the ground. To make the building warmer, it is necessary to insulate the floors.

The easiest way to do this is to tear off the wooden flooring and fill the underground with a layer of insulation. If the floors are high, then the insulation will have to be fixed between the lags. After that, the wooden flooring can be returned to its place.


So, after removing the board or panel flooring, a vapor barrier is laid out on the ground - layers of roofing material or polypropylene film (more durable) are wrapped on the walls above the floor covering.

After creating a reliable vapor barrier, the same organic-lime mass is poured over the ground as in the attic, with a layer of 25-30 cm, or more. A gap of 3-5 cm is left before the final coating.

Or expanded clay, or coal slag, sifted from fines and coal, with a fraction of at least 3 mm, with a layer of 35 cm.

If not, then a flooring is arranged between the lags, closed with a vapor barrier, mineral wool is placed on it with a layer of 15 cm, covered from above with a vapor permeable membrane.

Styrofoam is eaten by rodents, so it can be used under the floor if it is protected with a metal mesh.

Insulation of the walls of a country house

The most not cheap issue is the insulation of the walls of a country house. In terms of importance for insulation, walls are in last place.

For the walls you will have to purchase insulation, it will take a lot. Either cheap foam plastic is used with a layer of 10 cm, if the walls are concrete, brick, cinder block, or 12 cm of mineral wool, if the walls are wooden, foam concrete, porous-ceramic.

Naturally, we can only talk about the normal scheme of insulation - outside. From the inside, it is possible to insulate only under duress ... under the pressure of circumstances ..., this insulation is so unprofitable, and even harmful.

In fact, in the case of polystyrene, you need to do the wet facade technology. You can read more about how to insulate the walls of a country house using wet facade technology on this resource. It is also worth noting here that foam insulation can be done by hand.

The same applies to the insulation of walls from the outside with mineral wool. The description is voluminous, we will not repeat. Look for a detailed description on the next page. It is necessary to make a frame from profiles, wooden beams, which are again sewn up from the outside with panels, siding ...

But if we consider completely cheap insulation, then you can try to build with your own hands around the country house, in fact, a false wall made of boards, plywood or some inexpensive panels for outdoor use.

To do this, a frame is installed on suspensions with a thickness of 15 centimeters of empty space, which is covered with hardwood-insulating material with lime. Horizontal bars are stuffed in increments of 40 cm so that the insulation does not fall down.

In this technology, it is only important to prevent water from entering the insulation from the outside, i.e. There should be no gaps in the outer lining. But due to the heterogeneity of the insulation layer, the fragility of materials, it is not necessary to talk about high-quality insulation.

As you can see, a summer cottage, a garden house can really be insulated not at all expensive. The main problem with this is the complexity of the work. But if you take your time, carry out the warming of the country house gradually, then problems should not arise.

Many summer residents want to insulate their house from the outside so that they can live in it during the cold season. It is important to isolate the walls, because up to 30% of heat is lost through them! A variety of heaters are presented on construction markets. Their types need to be sorted out.

Styrofoam

Styrofoam, aka expanded polystyrene. It is made in different ways, so the properties of the material are different. For wall insulation, it is best to take extruded polystyrene, strong and durable. It has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity (0.026 W/m°C). Thermal conductivity does not change even at high humidity, low water absorption and vapor permeability. Density - from 20 to 48 kg / m3.

On the photo-foam for warming the cottage outside:

The advantages include high mechanical compressive strength, which depends on the thickness and density of the material.

Fungus, mold does not form on it. Easy to install: easy to cut, the boards are attached to the outer walls with dowels. A metal or polymer mesh is mounted on top, on which a decorative layer is then applied.

Polyfoam is durable, does not deform and does not lose its qualities. The material is light, so no strengthening of the foundation is required, and it is easy to work with it. Affordable price is an important argument for those who decide to insulate the cottage.

For thermal insulation of walls, you should choose extruded polystyrene foam, made with the addition of flame retardants - this is a slow-burning material.

Disadvantages of expanded polystyrene:

1. combustibility. Easily ignites, burns, heating up to +75 degrees, acrid toxic smoke is released during combustion. You can secure your home by choosing polystyrene impregnated with an antiprene compound.
2. Low vapor barrier. Moisture may accumulate inside the room. Therefore, it is necessary to install additional ventilation, and this is an additional cost.
3. Not UV resistant– radiation, requires coating.
4. It can host rodents. although the manufacturers claim otherwise.
5. Mice make their holes in it and getting rid of such "neighbors" is problematic. It is possible to avoid them only with the correct installation of the foam.
6. Decomposes on contact with solvents(sometimes insulation is accompanied by waterproofing, for which bituminous mastic with a high solvent content is used).
7. Material retains water and steam if the house is wooden, then mold may appear in it, a musty smell, the tree may rot. The house does not "breathe", the concept of an eco-friendly house is violated.

On the video - insulation for walls outside the house in the country:

Specifications vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. The most popular brands in the Russian market: Rockwool, Isover, Ursa, Penoplex, Technoplex, Knauf.

The materials are similar, but there are differences. For example, graphite is added to Technoplex, it gives strength. Due to this additive, the material becomes gray. In terms of cost, Penoplex is cheaper than, for example, Knauf. To insulate the facade of the cottage, slabs with dimensions of 0.5 x 1, 1 x 1 m are suitable. They are easy to cut, it will not be difficult to insulate complex details on the facade.

It is necessary to insulate the walls of the house from the outside with foam plastic with a density of 25 kg / m3. Plates with a density of 15 kg / m 3 are not suitable for such work, the material is not strong enough and reliable, and is also short-lived.

Styrofoam with a density of 15 kg / m 3 is suitable for insulating those parts of the building where serious insulation is not required. For example, verandas, balconies.

Thicker slabs (35 kg / m 3) usually insulate the roof, the walls are not economically profitable. Therefore, the most demanded material is with a density of 25 kg / m 3.

Important! Polyurethane foam is not suitable for insulation (this is a well-known foam rubber that is short-lived, flammable, the smoke from it is toxic) and polyvinyl chloride foam (very similar to extrusion, but toxic when burned).

What it looks like and what is the name of the insulation under the linoleum on the concrete floor, the information from the article will help to understand:

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is available in many types. But not all of them are suitable for thermal insulation of cottages. According to GOST 52953-2008, fiberglass, slag wool and stone wool are considered heat insulators. Therefore, it is insignificant.

Glass wool. It is made by melting quartz sand or cullet and blown into fine fibers. Light yellow material. It has been used for insulation since Soviet times, the material is popular, cheap and very prickly! It is quite possible to use it, if you have not chosen yet, .

In the photo, glass wool for warming the cottage outside:

The structure of glass wool consists of fibers with a thickness of 5-15 microns and a length of 15-50 mm. Thanks to them, it is strong and resilient. But what is the difference between basalt wool and mineral wool, it will help to understand the video from this

Attention! Glass fibers that break can cause injury. You need to work in a disposable protective suit, gloves, goggles and a respirator.

Slag. Produced from blast-furnace slag (waste from blast-furnace metallurgy). Its fibers are 16 mm long and 4-12 mm thick. Thin and prickly, than they look like glass wool. They are sintered at a temperature of 300 degrees Celsius and the heat-insulating properties of the material disappear. Slag is toxic. And in this article, you can emphasize for yourself

In the photo - slag wool for warming the cottage outside:

Stone wool. Made from stone. Rocks are melted (which is why it is also called basalt) at a temperature of 1400-1500 degrees. The fibers are up to 7 microns thick and up to 5 cm long. There are a variety of shades from light brown to green.

The properties of glass wool and stone are very similar. There are still differences: glass wool is more elastic and lighter. But stone is more fire resistant. It is easier to work with stone wool, and its characteristics are higher: excellent thermal insulation properties, sound absorption, vapor permeability (steam is not absorbed, passes between the fibers), high fire resistance, and is non-toxic when heated. But what is it and where is technonicol rocklite stone wool used, the information will help to understand

In the photo - stone wool for warming the cottage outside:

Material in slabs or rolls is suitable for wall insulation.

Disadvantages:

1. High cost. As a heater for a country house, it may seem like an expensive material to many.
2. You need to work in a respirator, because in the process, small pieces still break off, basalt dust is formed.

Liquid thermal insulation materials

Liquid thermal insulation materials can be divided into types:

Ceramic compositions

It looks like thick acrylic paint. The base is really a water-acrylic mixture, to which silicone, rubber, etc. are added. Ceramic granules in the composition contribute to the reduction of heat loss. Some mixtures can only be applied at positive air temperatures, but there are those that can be worked with in frost. Liquid insulation is a homogeneous suspension, it can be applied with a brush and spray gun. In many respects, mineral wool and (expanded polystyrene) are better. But what is the price of liquid ceramic wall insulation from the inside, you can see in this

In the photo - liquid heat-insulating ceramics:

Popular Blends:

1. "Astratek" (produced by the Russian company "Astratek"). To insulate the facade of the cottage, "Astratek - Facade" or "Astratek - Universal" are suitable.
2. "Arktem" manufacturer - LLC "Arktem" (Russia). For wall insulation outside, Arktem-Facade and Arktem-Standard are suitable.
3. "Corundum",
4. "Armor".

Advantages of liquid ceramic heaters:

• a layer of 1 mm of liquid insulation in its properties corresponds to a layer of 50 mm of mineral wool;
• the liquid coating is seamless, unlike other materials;
• if summer cottages are insulated with such a coating, then you don’t have to worry that it will be dismantled or damaged during the absence of the owners;
• ease of application (the process is similar to conventional wall painting) allows you to do it on your own, you do not need special equipment and qualified specialists;
• resistance to fungi and mold;

The covering is durable, steady against rodents, moisture, pollution, mechanical damages.

polyurethane foam

Polymer gas-filled material. By structure, it is a cellular plastic. 90% filled with inert gas. Two technologies are used for wall insulation: pouring and spraying. When spraying, a spray gun is used.

In the photo, polyurethane foam for the outer wall:

When pouring, voids are filled with a homogeneous liquid.

Attention! It is possible to insulate a house with such materials in just one day. But special equipment and skills are required. You can't do it on your own. You need to invite the masters.

Advantages of polyurethane foam:

1. Thermal conductivity is lower than other thermal insulators. For example, a 1 cm polyurethane foam coating corresponds to a 30 cm brickwork or a 5 cm mineral wool layer.
2. Excellent sound and waterproofing.
3. It has high adhesion, therefore it is suitable for any surfaces.
4. Hard-flammable. It will only light up at 500 degrees Celsius.
5. Practically does not absorb moisture.
6. Easy to spray on various surfaces.
7. Applied quickly.
8. It is durable, properties remain till 60 years.
9. Lightweight material. Suitable for warming old houses, which have a small bearing capacity.

Disadvantages:

1. high cost. The price can be justified by durability, good heat and sound insulation properties.
2. Not resistant to UV rays: decomposes into monomers that are harmful to humans. Therefore, additional coating with decorative plaster or water-based paint is required.
3. Environmental friendliness not always supported by certificates. Therefore, in construction it is used for outdoor work in small areas.
4. When ignited, it smokes strongly, the smoke is toxic.
5. Installation is complicated by nuances: if sheet materials are fixed on top of the insulation with self-tapping screws or dowels, solidity is broken. If you give preference to plaster, then the mixture should reliably protect against exposure to ultraviolet radiation, moisture and air.

But what is the shell of polyurethane foam for pipe insulation, you can find out by clicking on

Ecowool

The material itself is not liquid. But it can be the main component of the mixture, which is applied in a liquid state.

In the photo - ecowool for the outer wall:

Ecowool consists of 80% cellulose (waste from woodworking enterprises, printing, waste paper), and 12% is boric acid. Another 8% is flame retardant - a substance that increases the fire resistance of products.

When cellulose is wetted, its fibers become sticky. In addition, glue is additionally added to the mixture. Such a composition is applied to the walls for their insulation.

Ecowool characteristics:

1. Low thermal conductivity.
2. The spraying is seamless, one hundred contributes to good thermal insulation.
3. Excellent soundproofing.
4. Environmental friendliness.
5. Fire resistance. Ecowool, even when ignited, quickly fades itself, and its smoke is not toxic.

On the video, what kind of insulation is better to insulate the house from the outside:

Disadvantages:

1. Ecowool “shrinks” over time. Therefore, initially it must be taken into account, the layer should be applied 10% thicker than necessary.
2. It must not be covered with vapor-tight materials. If there is no ventilation, the thermal insulation properties will be lost.
3. High-quality installation can only be carried out by professionals.

Choose the material for the thermal insulation of the dacha, based on the quality characteristics of the material, your financial capabilities and the feasibility of warming in one way or another.