Do-it-yourself polymer coating for a concrete floor. Instructions on how to lay a polymer bulk floor

Self-leveling polymer floors are also called "liquid linoleum" - they are so comfortable to use. This is a new word in interior design and a godsend for industrial premises. They give any interior an extra visual dimension with their soft sheen and seamless surface. Minimal shrinkage, high elasticity and modern aesthetics - these are the qualities due to which polymer floors are gaining more and more popularity in the CIS countries, and abroad they have been on the market for a long time at number one.

Polymer flooring: fashion or practicality?

There are many types of polymer flooring today: for every taste, style and idea. And according to their composition, they are divided into:

• Polyurethane. The floor has a good performance and can be laid independently both in a technical room and in a residential building.
• Epoxy-urethane. Such a coating is especially resistant to abrasion and is indispensable for significant pedestrian and transport loads: workshops, corridors and warehouses. True, the price is quite high.
• Methyl methacrylate. When laying such a floor, it is necessary to strictly observe the technology of the process, but after 2 hours after drying, you can walk on it. It is frost-hardy, and perfectly tolerates any bad weather in the open air.
• Cement-polyurethane coatings are mainly used to create floors with heavy use: high temperatures, exposure to aggressive chemicals and live steam. It is such a floor that most effectively protects the concrete base from destruction, which is why they are most often ordered for car service premises.

Of course, epoxy and polyurethane floors are more popular today due to their coating thickness: from 0.5 mm to 6 mm. Let's compare these two types of sex. So, epoxy ones are much harder, they are cheaper, but they are laid in a layer up to 5 mm, while polyurethane is enough 3 mm. And polyurethane floors are more scratch resistant than epoxy ones.

Self-leveling floor: we reveal the secrets of technology

So what is a polymer floor? All the compounds that are used today are divided by experts into two main groups: polymer and mineral. The latter are a mixture of cement, modifiers and fillers, on which the rate of filling the mixture depends. These are self-leveling floors that easily form a flat finish due to their low cohesion. Polymer floors are used as a continuous topcoat, which may depend on the mixture itself and the fillers.

A self-leveling polymer floor is made by modern manufacturers from epoxy resins or polyurethane. Initially, this beauty was used only in industrial workshops, but apartment residents also like the dustlessness, the absence of floor seams and the possibility of its unlimited decoration.

For a bathroom, a polymer floor is an ideal option. Due to the absence of seams, moisture will not penetrate under it, and to the touch this coating is as pleasant and warm as linoleum, only not so soft. Another significant plus for the bathroom: polymer floors are not prone to mold or mildew.

Interestingly, even the most glossy, at first glance, self-leveling floors still have a valuable anti-slip property. That is why today, even in swimming pools, tiles are abandoned, replacing them with colored and fashionable polymer floors. And recently, they want to see such floors in the bedroom, and in the nursery, and even in the office. After all, polymers have simply amazing qualities, and, due to the fact that they are the main components of a self-leveling floor, any design idea now has the right to life.

Even stunning 3D effects, for which airbrush artists are often invited today, for whom it is enough to add a few additional touches to the same fish underwater to make them seem bright and alive.

Coating specifications

To the touch, such a floor is warmer than a tile and even softer than linoleum, and it can be easily combined with a floor heating system. Plus a lot of nice benefits:

• High wear resistance;
• Lack of traumatic sliding;
• Resistance to aggressive household chemicals;
• Absolute environmental friendliness - all components of the solution are non-toxic;
• Perfectly flat surface for any subsequent finish;
• Hygiene and easy cleaning;
• The ability to apply any image;
• Fire safety and high level of waterproofing;
• Complete absence of seams and joints, where bacteria and dirt do not collect;
• And polymer floors are so resistant to low temperatures that they are even used as a base for large freezers.

The resistance of the bulk polymer floor to the effects of temperature is amazing: it will not lose its properties in the range from -60 ° С to + 90 ° С. And even on the verge of these values, the floor will neither ignite, nor smoke, nor release any toxins. And all because polymers meet international standards.

And yet, unlike, these floors never emit dust or life-threatening compounds. In addition, interesting images are applied on them: 3D pictures, small details and much more. We can say that polymer floors are a real field for the imagination of modern designers.

But polymer floors have some disadvantages that you should know:

• Quite a large amount of work and the deadline for its completion
• The high cost of the materials used
• High cost per quote if you hire a construction crew

And also take into account this in advance: if you ever want to change the floor covering, then it will be extremely difficult to peel off the self-leveling floor - it is much easier to fill it with a new layer or simply by laying the same or. In general, that's all the disadvantages.

What does the market offer?

Self-leveling floors have a wide range of colors and patterns - much wider than even tiles. Prices for polymer coatings are quite different: they depend on the design, the polymers used and the brand. Also, with a strong mechanical effect on the floor in the room, they prefer the polyurethane version, since the epic ones are less elastic. But for a constant static load - just right.

As for the brand, so far the best reviews can be heard about the Gipcreet Thermafloor filling field. It is a lightweight polymer mortar that never cracks. The brand of self-leveling floor "Elakor PU" is no less popular today. This mixture has a good hardener and color base, which are mixed right before use. As a result, the floor is resistant to stress, moisture and active use of chemicals.

You can also hear good reviews about Praspan and Proplan, SIKA and Hyperdesmo. And for the most complex projects, RINOL is more often chosen - an Italian company that is today considered the world leader in self-leveling coating systems. Such floors are not interchangeable for those premises where special or increased requirements are imposed:

• Parking lots;
• Operating rooms;
• Supermarkets;
• Public spaces;
• Transformer substations.

The environmental friendliness, durability and UV resistance of the final coating really depend on the quality of the materials used. If you hire a team to fill a polymer floor, it will not be superfluous to ask them about the availability of certificates.

It is not the polymer floor itself that is expensive, but its installation. Construction companies really often inflate prices for such services, which they themselves often admit to. That is why, if you learn how to fill such a coating yourself, then a modern self-leveling floor will not become a luxury for you, but an excellent option for renovating your home. And over time, thanks to its impressive service life, the polymer floor will pay off at least twice.

Do-it-yourself pouring - how realistic is it?

Absolutely real. After all, the self-leveling floor adheres tightly to any base: tiles, concrete and even wood. The main thing is that it is clean, dry, even and fat-free. The total moisture content of the base should not exceed 5%.

So, after you put the mixture on the floor, it will spread itself and take on a perfectly horizontal level. Your only task is to prevent air bubbles from appearing anywhere - and for this, a spiked roller is used.

And you can place any objects for creation just at the finishing stage: we spread it on a thin layer of polymer varnish and fill it all over again.

How to care for a self-leveling floor?

And, finally, it is not difficult to take care of the self-leveling floor -. Periodic it needs to be renewed, covering it with a protective varnish, and the rest of the time, wet or dry cleaning is enough.

Polymer self-leveling floors are washed with special household chemicals with a high acid content. It should be applied to the floor surface for five to ten minutes, then thoroughly clean off the remaining polish and rinse the coating well using as much water as possible. This is usually done using a special technique, but you can do it yourself. If there are tire stains or other difficult dirt on the floor, then these places are covered with a deep cleaning detergent for five minutes, and then cleaned off.

In industrial premises, where there is a particularly strong mechanical load on the floor, dirt gets clogged into microcracks invisible to the eye, and the coating becomes a little dull. Then modern high-pressure washing units are used, which easily knock out all the dirt and the renewed floor is varnished.

If a self-leveling polymer floor in the future will often be washed with aggressive chemicals (for example, in medical institutions), then it is protected from damage even at the stage of pouring - by covering it with a special protective polish using a monomial. And this polish needs to be updated every six months.

Also remember that polymer coatings are not designed for prolonged exposure to alkalis or acids of high concentration - and therefore, detergents cannot be left on the surface for a long time. And another tip: it is advisable to install rubber pads on the legs of furniture or work equipment - this way the floor will last longer.

So why, given the relative low cost of the material and the completely understandable laying technology, they take so much for such work? It's just that for our country, such floors are to some extent still a novelty, but it is always good to make money on new products. Try to do it yourself - in the next step, you will replace the floors in absolutely all other rooms!

When deciding on the arrangement of a self-leveling polymer floor, the owner must be aware that the work performed must be of a high quality level and last as long as possible. Therefore, in the future, we will focus specifically on modern methods of obtaining self-leveling floors. The technology discussed below is not the most affordable and easy.

Self-leveling polymer 3D floors are currently recommended as a topcoat. It will not only give the floor originality and originality, but will also make it an equal component of the interior.

The essence of 3D floors is that thanks to the decorative component based on high-strength polyurethane, such floors allow you to create a quasi-three-dimensional image. Such floors are made in two stages: first, polymer filling is performed in the usual way, and then, when it is ready, the topcoat is applied. Since transparent polymers are used, the resulting image will have a certain depth.

The aesthetic level of such floors is very high, which allows you to create real architectural compositions, even using components such as painted sand or marble chips.

Naturally, the implementation of this type of self-leveling floor will have its own nuances, which will be discussed below. In the meantime, let's look at the steps required to create the main polymer coating.

Preparatory activities

The room intended for pouring must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and debris, and all unnecessary items (for example, baseboards) must be removed from it.

Next, you should prepare the materials and tools necessary for work.... In particular, it is advisable to use a vacuum cleaner to remove debris, and to remove old paint residues, traces of glue, etc. - a grinder. By the way, the quality and durability of the floor to be laid directly depends on the thoroughness of cleaning.

It is very important what material the coating is made of. For example, if a wooden base is to be poured, then for better adhesion of the polymer to the surface, the wooden floor must first be sanded, opened all cracks found, and then degreased with special compounds. Degreasing is most often used with conventional organic solvents - acetone, gasoline or white spirit. But for the subsequent polymer filling, it is worth using more effective compositions.

If there are no problems with the disposal of the residues of the degreasing solution, then you can use an alkaline solution of KM or simply add surfactants to the composition. Special degreasing wood flooring compounds are also sold (for example, from the Mellerud trademark) - in this case, you can protect yourself from possible fungal formation.

Next, you should evaluate the moisture content of the floor. It should not be more than 10%, otherwise it will be impossible to fill such a coating with a high quality polymer. At the last stage, it is necessary to seal the cracks with special building mixtures.

The preparation of the concrete floor for pouring is performed in a specific sequence.

Assessment of the relative humidity of concrete

It should not exceed 4%, otherwise the coating should be dried. The simplest method for assessing the suitability of a concrete floor for pouring in terms of its moisture condition is to lay a regular rubber mat on it, which should be pressed firmly on top. If after a day the concrete coating has not changed its color, then its humidity is within acceptable limits.

Checking the strength characteristics of concrete (if the laying was carried out recently)

The compressive strength must be at least 20 MPa, and the peel strength must be at least 1.5 MPa. You can also perform such a check with improvised means. This requires a chisel and a hammer. Having installed the chisel perpendicular to the concrete surface, it is necessary to apply several hammer blows on it with an average force - if the marks on the concrete are barely noticeable, and the concrete after the impact has not crumbled, then its quality meets the requirements;

Determination of the presence of a waterproofing layer

If it is not there, then the work on arranging the self-leveling polymer floor will have to be stopped, since over time the process of peeling of the coating will begin. This circumstance is especially important for self-leveling floors, equipped in rooms with high humidity, for example, in bathrooms. In case of poor-quality waterproofing, the resulting fumes will penetrate through the capillaries in the concrete to the inner surface of the polymer floor and cause its destruction.

All other preparatory operations on a concrete base do not differ from those on a wooden base.

If it is planned to pour a polymer floor over ceramic tiles, then it should be checked for possible voidness (it may appear when the glue used to stick the tiles dries out). Tiles lagging behind the surface are removed, and the resulting voids are putty. Next, the surface is degreased.

Priming the surface before pouring

The greatest danger when making self-leveling floors is air bubbles that can form in the polymer during pouring. In addition, the primer provides better polymer spreading over the surface to be poured. This is very important because the setting process is extremely fast.

The wooden surface should be primed in two or even three layers, which will ensure the complete closure of the pores. Here it is most advisable to use primer mixtures with a high viscosity, for example, from the brands Litonet Pro, Knauf, etc.

For concrete surfaces, a two-component epoxy composition is suitable, which does not contain mineral components that contribute to the formation of bubbles. The primer is carried out in two stages, and the secondary primer is made only after the first layer has completely dried.

It should be recalled that the primer formulations are very toxic, so the room must be constantly ventilated. At the same time, one should not allow an excessive decrease in temperature, since at + 15 ° C and below, the effectiveness of adhesion of the primer mixture to the base decreases. After complete drying, the primed surface should "rest" for about a day.

An integral part of the preparatory work is the laying of a thermal compensation joint around the entire perimeter of the room. To do this, you can use regular hardwood slats. The presence of such seams will protect against possible deformation of the finished coating in the event of significant temperature differences.

How to prepare components for pouring

Poor casting will hopelessly ruin the coating, so this stage should be taken with the utmost seriousness. To mix the components, you will need a low-speed electric drill with a wide paddle-shaped nozzle. Even better, a building mixer is available. The quality of the self-leveling floor decisively depends on the speed of the mixing process, since the finished composition must be used (that is, poured over the surface) as quickly as possible.

In the process of mixing the components, an exothermic reaction occurs, as a result of which the temperature of the mixture rises. In order that the polymerization of the components does not occur too quickly, the container in which the mixing is performed is placed in another one filled with cold water. As a result, the temperature of the finished mixture will not rise as quickly.

For the same reasons indoor humidity should not exceed 80%... At higher humidity, condensation occurs on the surface of the poured polymer, as a result of which the quality of the pour will decrease, and the setting time, on the contrary, will increase.

In the process of mixing the working mixture, it is necessary to quickly check the mixing quality. Routine visual inspection (for example, for lumps) is often insufficient. Experts recommend checking the polymer-containing mixture for readiness for pouring as follows:

• a plastic ring with a diameter of 50 mm and more and a height of 30 mm (for example, a cap from a bottle with an air freshener is suitable) is placed on a perfectly flat and smooth surface. It could be a piece of thick glass;
• the stirred mixture is poured into the ring, after which the ring will rise, and the mixture in the middle will pour out onto the glass surface;
• if the mixture spreads evenly, with a “spot” diameter of 18-20 mm, then it is ready for use. Smaller spot diameters will result in a mixture that is too thick and subsequent leveling will be difficult, if not impossible. With a larger diameter, the mixture turns out to be more liquid, and the components initial for pouring should be added to it.

How to fill the floor

It is better to start the process from the wall, which is as far as possible from the front door. The filling is carried out as uniform stripes as possible, parallel to the wall of the room. Particularly problematic areas - between adjacent strips - should be smoothed out immediately using a wide trowel.

It is important to keep the minimum difference in thickness between adjacent strips. A needle roller will help in this, rolling it over the surface of the self-leveling floor, achieving its uniform thickness. At the same time, the quality of the filling is improved by removing possible air bubbles.

The final pouring time is determined by the volume of the prepared mixture, but in most cases it should not exceed one hour. For the proper quality of the filling, the interval between the laying of adjacent polymer strips is also important - it should be no more than 10 minutes. After the end of the pouring, the surface must be covered with plastic wrap. It will prevent dust and dirt from falling on an incompletely solidified surface, and will also contribute to a more uniform solidification of the polymer.

3D decorative coating

The decorative layer can be formed in two ways - either by drawing with the desired image, or by drawing directly on the coating. For the second option, acrylic paints are required, which do not deteriorate under the influence of ultraviolet radiation. The first way is cheaper, because now you can find a sufficient number of vending drawings, which can then be obtained by printing on a plotter, using banner fabric as a basis. To increase durability, the fabric should be covered with a thermal protective vinyl film.

The image should be slightly larger than required, since it is always easier to cut a piece of a picture than to glue it onto a self-leveling floor - this is ugly and inconvenient.

To connect the 3D image with the base layer, it should be pre-primed using the same composition as for pouring, but diluted with any organic solvent to half the concentration. The primer will cure within 20-24 hours.

The printed image is glued to a primer and rolled using a dry roller. At this time, it is possible to move on the surface of the coating only in shoes with spikes on the sole, otherwise the coating will be damaged! The thickness of the transparent polymer coating should be within 3-4 mm (the greater the thickness, the brighter the effect of the 3D coating).

The preparation and application of the clear resin to cover the banner fabric is the same as for the base fill. Full polymerization will take place in 20-30 minutes, after which, to ensure greater durability, the surface is covered with a layer of transparent varnish.

Video - Self-leveling polymer floors with your own hands

Recently, new types of floor coverings have appeared on store shelves. An innovative discovery was the emergence of a polymer self-leveling floor, which appeared relatively recently on the market of building and finishing materials.

His path began with the use in industrial premises, where high dynamic loads are used.

But also, they are often used where aesthetic appearance and environmental friendliness is required, this is the food production sector, sanatoriums and so on. This type of flooring is poured, after hardening it becomes an absolutely flat surface and has no seams.

It looks like linoleum, so sometimes a bulk polymer floor is called "liquid linoleum". Due to its phenomenal properties, beauty and practicality, it has become widespread not only in industry, but also in general household consumption.

Types and classification of self-leveling floors

The most basic classification is by composition, and so they are divided into:

One of the advantages is that you can carry out work in cold weather, not susceptible to low temperatures. There are also disadvantages, poor resistance to chemically active substances, and high cost.

• Polyurethane floors- shows resistance to everyday household damage. They are used in unusual cases, when flexibility and elasticity with a combination of strength come first.

Due to its elasticity, it is able to withstand any dynamic influences, without cracking and deformation. Also resistant to chemical damage.

In industrial buildings, the first types of self-leveling floors are usually used. Subsequent types of polymer self-leveling floor are widely used for decoration of residential premises.

The following type of classification by layer thickness:

There is also a classification, depending on the properties:

Advantages and disadvantages of self-leveling floor

Like all building materials, self-leveling floor has its own advantages:

But, like all materials, there are drawbacks:

1. Very high cost
2. Due to all its positive properties, it is very difficult to dismantle a self-leveling finishing polymer floor; specialized equipment will be required.

Preparation for pouring a polymer self-leveling floor

As with any floor covering, surface preparation, tool preparation, preparation of a ready-made mixture are required.

We start with surface preparation. We remove garbage, vacuum cleaner. We conduct a visual inspection for defects, chips, cracks, height differences.

We eliminate defects, in the presence of minor defects, we use a putty, in the presence of rough irregularities, we use a floor screed. We wait until everything is dry.

In the process of mixing, an endothermic reaction occurs, you should be careful and careful. We take a mixer or a drill attachment and mix the components, after which we pour the finished mixture onto the prepared surface.

Polymer floor pouring technology

The pouring process consists of three stages:

1. Stage - Preliminary or base layer.
2. Stage - Finishing layer.
3. Stage - Lacquer coating.

And so we start by filling the preliminary layer. The pouring process is best done together, one prepares the polymer mixture, the second smoothes it, the finished solution removes air.

In most cases, an epoxy polymer mixture is used as a subfloor, with the addition of quartz sand or granite sand. Pouring the mortar usually starts from the far corner, it is recommended to pour in stripes.

For a perfectly flat surface, it is possible to use beacons that are pre-set using a level. The finished solution is poured onto the prepared surface, evenly distributed with a rule or a metal spatula.

Afterwards, air bubbles that form when the components are mixed are removed with an aeration roller. Rope casting is also possible. The thickness of this layer should not exceed 1-2 mm. Drying time is approximately one day.

Once the subcoat is completely dry, you can proceed with the final fill. It is important to wash the instrument thoroughly after each use to avoid agitation.

At your discretion, the use of decorative elements is possible. Coins of different sizes, buttons of different shapes and sizes, small river pebbles, seashells and much more can be used as elements.

It is also possible to use stencils, landscapes and drawings painted with paints. And recently the use of 3D films. The process of pouring a finishing layer is no different from the process of pouring a preliminary layer.

After the final coating has dried completely, a special varnish is applied.... That's all the floor is ready after the varnish dries. Professionals warn that drafts and direct sunlight do not favorably affect the drying process of the flooded floor.

And it is also required to clearly maintain the time between pouring each layer. When pouring a floor with your own hands, we recommend that you watch video lessons on how to properly install a polymer self-leveling floor.

Prices for polymer bulk floors

The price will be influenced by manufacturer, brand, region and place of purchase.

Now we will consider the average cost of one kilogram of the mixture:

• Polyurethane mixture - 230-260 rubles.
• Epoxy mixture - 250-280 rubles.
• Methyl methacrylate mixture - 340-380 rubles.
• Cement-based mixture - 310-340 rubles.

It is important to know that the price per square meter of a polymer self-leveling floor is made up of the price of a primer, a preliminary layer, a finishing layer, and if the price of decorative elements and varnish is required. And the thickness of the layer also affects the cost.

On average, the price for 1 sq.m. and a layer thickness of 1-2 mm. material is:

Depending on the complexity, the number of decorating elements, the amount of work, the use of 3d films - and the price of work per 1 sq. M. Varies.

A polymeric self-leveling floor is a finishing floor covering consisting of polymeric materials. In other words, it is a seamless polymer membrane that is applied to a screed or cleaned concrete slab. Such a polymer self-leveling floor has increased wear resistance and at the same time protects concrete well from destruction. This floor covering is a popular novelty in modern construction, which has already earned considerable prestige.
Self-leveling floor - an ideal replacement for the usual parquet, tiles, linoleum or laminate

The color palette of a self-leveling self-leveling floor can be completely varied. In the catalogs you will find 10 - 15 standard colors that a polymer self-leveling floor can have, but in reality you can get exactly the color you need. This is achieved by the fact that various organic dyes are simply added to the building mixture.

Self-leveling floor application

• in apartments, residential buildings
• in production facilities
• in public, commercial establishments (parking lots, shopping centers, clubs, offices, restaurants, etc.)
• in premises with food industry
• for sports facilities, stadiums

Specialized polymer coatings are used depending on the scope and conditions of use.

Self-leveling floors are made of high-quality building materials that are extremely convenient and easy to prepare and equip

We are ready to make three types of self-leveling floors for you:

• glossy (creates a feeling of water on the surface)
• semi-matte (slightly dimmer glossy)
• matte (practically non-reflective)

Options for the self-leveling floor:

Self-leveling floor type No. 3 is an author's design self-leveling floor, has a thickness of the total coating from 3 mm and includes the following types of components:

• The first component: the Europoll primer is applied to the prepared substrate, followed by the addition of dry quartz sand (0.3 - 0.8 mm fraction).
• The second layer is the base base (Evropoll EP-Base).
• The third layer is decorative. This layer can be filled with various decorative elements, fabrics with any images, self-adhesive vinyl films.
• The fourth layer is the finishing element (Europoll NEW Finish).

Self-leveling floor type No. 5 is a design polymer self-leveling floor with a total coating thickness of three millimeters and including the following components:

• The first component: Europoll primer is applied to the prepared concrete base, followed by sanding with quartz sand (0.3 - 0.8 mm).
• The second layer is the fundamental base element (Evropoll EP-Base).
• The third layer is designer (Evropoll Ral -Base).

Floor type No. 8 is a stone carpet (smoothed pebble / compacted), has a coating thickness of 6-8 mm, includes the following types of components:

• First layer: Evropoll primer is applied to the prepared substrate, followed by the addition of quartz dry sand (0.3 - 0.8 mm fraction).
• The second layer is the foundational base (Evropoll EP-Base).
• The third layer is sealing (Evropoll NEW Finish).
• The fourth component is the finishing one (Europoll NEW Finish).

Polyurethane or epoxy flooring?

To figure out what kind of coverage you need, you need to compare their positive and negative characteristics.

Epoxy self-leveling floor contains epoxy resins at the heart of its composition. It is characterized by high strength, rigidity, hardness and has the following features:

Polyurethane self-leveling floor it is characterized by elasticity, flexibility and shock resistance. Has the following features:

• resistant to constant mechanical stress
• has increased wear resistance
• not afraid of ultraviolet rays (does not lose its color, does not fade)
• made exclusively in two component composition, which, after mixing, begins to harden quickly (this dictates the accuracy and efficiency of work)
• applied to the surface only at a positive temperature (at least + 5 degrees)
• does not emit odor when applied
• as a minus - it penetrates well into the pores of the concrete surface

• endowed with high stretching rates
• resistant to continuous vibrations, mechanical stress
• with direct exposure to ultraviolet radiation, a slight yellowish tint may form on the surface
• can be one-component and two-component
• impregnation depth on concrete is from 2 mm
• hardens slowly (no need for quick application to the surface)
• when applying it is necessary to use protective respirators, as harmful vapors are released
• the floor is applied at a positive temperature

Features of the polymer self-leveling floor

1. High wear resistance to abrasion, that is, such a floor is not susceptible to the effects of various grains of sand, dust
2. The elasticity of the coating, allowing the floor to withstand significant temperature fluctuations
3. Resistant to vibration, possible shock. Self-leveling floors will perfectly cope with all physical activity and at the same time will not lose their original decorative effect
4. Durability and reliability. If you choose the right type of self-leveling coating and lay it according to all the rules, then the floor can last more than 20 years.
5. Floor seamless - provides hollow protection and moisture resistance of the concrete base
6. Resistant to corrosive chemicals
7. Hygiene (does not contribute to the development of pathogenic microflora)
8. Environmental friendliness (does not emit harmful chemical compounds into the air)
9. Easy to clean, suitable for machine cleaning with active cleaning agents
10. Attractive appearance, variety of colors and aesthetics (thanks to the use of decorative materials)
11. Fire safety (in case of a possible fire in the room, the floor has moderate toxicity and low flammability)
12. The floor ensures that there are no sparks, which makes it possible to install it where work with explosive substances is carried out
13. Maintainability - allows you to fully or partially restore the coating
14. Quick and easy to fit (work can take 1 - 4 days)
15. Provides a perfectly flat surface

Self-leveling floor formation technology

1) Preparatory stage - leveling and preparation of the base

Any self-leveling floor requires a perfectly flat concrete floor surface. Horizontal deviations should not exceed 2 mm. If possible, the base should be made of solid concrete (minimum M200) or sand concrete

The concrete base must be completely dry and must not have any contamination on the surface (various greases, oil stains, any previously applied old coatings, etc.). All dirt is removed by milling, grinding

If the leveling of the surface is not effective, then a new screed must be made.

2) Priming the concrete base and sanding with quartz sand

The prepared soil is poured over the surface of the base and evenly distributed with a roller. If the concrete base does not absorb the soil uniformly, then after the first layer, highly absorbent areas are additionally primed. After the first layer of primer has polymerized, a second protective layer is applied, at the time of application of which dry quartz sand is evenly applied on top (fractions 0.3 - 0.6 mm)

3) Preparation, application of the finishing layer

For the manufacture of a self-leveling self-leveling floor, a specialized dry mixture or two dry components are diluted in a certain amount of cold water (if there are two components, then first the first is diluted, and then the second is gradually poured in). The entire composition is continuously stirred with an electric mixer for two to three minutes (direct and reverse rotation is activated). As a result, a homogeneous fluid mass without lumps should be formed, which must be calmly settled for two to three minutes in order for the air entrained by stirring to escape. After that, the mixture is evenly distributed over the surface and wait for its complete hardening.

The thickness of the general floor covering should vary from 3 to 8 mm, depending on the selected type of self-leveling floor

The final step, but not necessary, may be the application of a protective polyurethane varnish, which can accentuate the surface or make it matte, removing light reflections

Distinctive properties of the decorative self-leveling floor

Installation of a decorative self-leveling floor is carried out with the help of a master, designer and decorative artist. The embodiment of the design idea is a fundamental property in this type of coating. The floor should blend perfectly into the interior of the room. It can contain various special effects. The thickness of the coating in this case can be up to several centimeters.

Decorating options and ways to change the shade of the self-leveling floor:

Adding chips

The varieties of bulk polymer floors, their advantages and areas of application are described in.

Now it makes sense to learn about the technology of their filling, especially since it is quite unique, has many important nuances.

In addition, readers will probably be interested in reading reviews of such floor coverings from people who have already experienced their daily use, as well as navigate the approximate price level for such materials.

Pouring polymer floors involves several characteristic stages of work carried out in a strictly defined sequence, in compliance with the technological requirements established by the manufacturer of the system.

It is clear that different types of coatings can have significant differences in the nuances of the preparation of the mixture and the timing of its use, the time intervals for drying each layer, the use of special additives, fillers or coloring pigments.

However, the approximate sequence of actions is the same for all types of bulk polymer floors.

As an example, we will consider the technology of pouring a two-component epoxy-based coating of the Elakor-ED system, which is widely used in industrial and private construction, includes all the necessary components for all stages, and has earned the most positive feedback from consumers.

Materials and tools for work

The amount of material is indicated on the basis of a fill of 10 sq. meters of floor with a thickness of 2.5 mm (this is the minimum permissible layer for this system). So, a high-quality filling of a polymer epoxy floor will require:

• Two-component soil "Elakor-ED 2K / 100" - 3 kg.
• Self-leveling floor "Elakor-ED" - 25 kg (7 kg for the base layer, and 18 for the main one).
• Refined quartz sand, fraction 0.3 - 0.6 mm - 23-25 ​​kg.
• Finishing polyurethane varnish "Elakor-PU - Lux" - 1.2 - 1.5 kg.

The necessary tools are prepared in advance:

• Spatulas of various widths, from 200 to 600 mm.
• Sintepon rollers with a pile of 10-15 mm.
• Needle roller.
• Squeegee with adjustable clearance.
• Drill with attachment for mixing building mixtures. The drill must have speed control and reverse.
• If a large area is covered, you will need attachments for work shoes - paint shoes.
• Hard synthetic broom, powerful vacuum cleaner (better - industrial).
• Containers for mixing the component solution.
• Be sure to use protective equipment for the skin of the hands and face.

Preparation of the base

The pouring work begins with the preparation of the base. Polymer floors can be poured onto a concrete screed, wooden surface, old tiles, but any type of surface requires careful revision and appropriate preparation.

One of the most important requirements is the horizontal surface. The epoxy floor is self-leveling. However, large differences in level will lead to a serious overspending of a rather expensive material and a general rise in the cost of the coating.

A height difference of up to 1 mm per linear meter is considered acceptable. If it is larger, it makes sense to first eliminate this with a leveling screed.

• The concrete floor should not have unsealed cracks, deep potholes, crumbling areas.

Absorbed oil or other stains are unacceptable - they are hollowed out to clean concrete, followed by potholes.

For repair work, polymer putties are used, which can be supplemented with quartz sand.

The residual moisture content of the cement base should not exceed 4%. If the work will be carried out on fresh concrete, the minimum curing period should be at least 4 weeks.

• When covering a wooden floor, pay special attention to the stability of the base - it should not "play".

The tree must be cleaned of dirt, old paint, sanded and sanded. The relative humidity of wood is allowed up to 10%.

• When laying on a tile, all tiles must be tapped to identify loose ones.

They should be removed from the common masonry, and the resulting grooves should be repaired with putty.

Immediately before the application of the primary primer layer (no more than 2 hours), the entire floor surface must be cleaned again of debris and dust with a powerful vacuum cleaner.

Conditions for floor pouring work

Filling technology assumes compliance with certain conditions for work:

• The air temperature in the room and the surface of the base is within + 5 ... + 25 degrees.
• Air humidity - no more than 80%.
• The optimum temperature of the components during mixing is 15-20 degrees.
• To prepare the solution, you must choose a place that will exclude the possibility of accidental splashing on the surface to be poured.

Priming the floor aims to clog the pores of the concrete, improve adhesion, and prevent peeling or swelling of the future coating.

In this case, the soil is a two-component composition; in other systems, a ready-made deep penetration primer is often used.

Add the required amount of component B to component “A” and mix thoroughly using both forward and reverse direction of rotation of the drill. Optimum speed is 500 rpm.

After obtaining a homogeneous mixture, an exposure is made for 2-3 minutes. to release air bubbles, and you can start working.

1. The soil is poured over the surface with a snake and evenly distributed with a synthetic winterizer roller.

If areas with increased absorbency are identified, they are immediately re-primed. You should get a uniform, smooth, glossy surface. The primary soil layer will require 18 hours to 24 hours for polymerization.

1. If required, at this stage it is possible to repair small irregularities by mixing for this an epoxy putty or even a small amount of the base composition of the self-leveling floor with 1-3 parts of quartz sand.
2. After the primary layer, a second layer is applied - a protective layer of soil, which is immediately sprinkled with a small amount of sand.

A day later, preferably no more, proceed to the next stage.

Creating a base layer

The base, underlying, layer will become a reliable base for the finishing, front surface. It completely seals all remaining pores, hides all irregularities and differences. It is also poured in two steps.

• First, a generous layer of epoxy primer is again applied to the surface, which is spread with a spatula so that no puddles form. Quartz sand (approximately 1.5 kg per square meter) is poured over the uncured soil with excess.

• After 15-18 hours, excess sand is removed with a stiff brush, the surface is dust-free.
• Prepare the main composition for pouring the floor.

There are some subtleties in its preparation - first, the component "A" is mixed, in the forward direction and the reverse, and then, without stopping the rotation, the component "B" is poured.

An absolutely homogeneous composition should be achieved.

After stirring again 2-3 minutes for aneration - and immediately the mixture is put into operation. Leaving it in a container for more than 10 minutes is contraindicated.

• The composition is poured on the floor in even stripes and spread to the required thickness using a squeegee. In some hard-to-reach places, you will need to use a spatula.

Average consumption is about 400-500 ml per square meter.

If you plan to decorate the floor with polymer inclusions (chips), then they are laid at this stage. Work is best done by wearing paint walkers on your feet and avoiding shuffling movements.

• After leveling the spilled mixture, it is given 15-20 hours to harden.

This layer will become the "face" of the future floor, therefore, when pouring it, increased accuracy is required. In addition to the decorative function, this layer also bears the main mechanical load.

The composition is mixed in the same way as described above, but the amount of the mixture per square meter will be greater - at least 1 liter per square meter at a surface temperature of about 20 degrees, or even 1.8 liters at 5 degrees.

With a smaller amount, the self-leveling effect may not be achieved. Pre-leveling is also done with a squeegee.

Time is limited - the prepared epoxy mixture needs to be worked out in 30 - 45 minutes.

In 10-15 minutes after the uniform distribution of the composition over the surface, but no later than half an hour, rolling with a needle roller takes place, which will free the layer from possible air bubbles.

Polymerization will last about a day, but the floor should be exposed to mechanical stress no earlier than after 4-6 days. During this period, the surface must be open, but protected from dust, dirt, liquid.

A good addition is the application of a protective clear coat of polyurethane varnish. It is applied twice in a thin layer using a roller or brush. Its polymerization will take another day, and after 3 days the floor will be completely ready for full use.

After all layers have completely solidified, expansion joints are cut along the perimeter of the room, which are sealed with a special sealant.

How much is the material for a polymer self-leveling floor

For example, the prices for several popular systems of polymer self-leveling floors of various types: