Gvlv moisture resistant elastic seam putty. How to putty gvl for painting and wallpaper

Increasingly, for high-quality wall insulation, fire resistance and moisture resistance in domestic and industrial premises, sheathing with gypsum fiber sheets is used. It is an absolutely environmentally friendly material. When used indoors, a favorable microclimate is created, which has a positive effect on the general condition of a person. But for the topcoat, additional sheet processing will be required. You need to know exactly how to putty gvl.

To install the GVL on the walls, you need to carry out some preparatory work:

• all old coatings are removed to the ground. Requires as little interaction of the element with other building materials as possible;
• if the base is concrete, then you need to carefully remove all elements that have already begun to flake off. So that the surface for working with GVL was without noticeable flaws;
• if it turns out that there are several concrete slabs on the same surface, additional work with the seams will be required. They need to be completely eliminated. In any hardware store, you can easily find the latest generation of plastic compounds. They are great at filling in the blanks. How to putty GVL is discussed further.

In addition to interior wall treatment in rooms, gypsum fiber sheets are excellent for outdoor use as well. There are many features when facing GVL walls. They can be simply glued to the wall, or they can be fixed to profiles.

If a frameless cladding option is selected, then the joints are sealed with a special material. Putty with the required markings is available in all building materials stores. With this finish, no reinforcing tape is required.

But in order to skip this stage of work, you can immediately take care of it. A wide range of different types are available at building materials stores. In addition to the main characteristics, resistance to moisture, low flammability and high thermal insulation, they are available with a polished surface and ordinary. And the edges can be chamfered or not. If the edges are chamfered, then the joints are much stronger and more invisible. No reinforcing tape is required for these seams either.

How to putty GVL for painting and wallpaper

Decorative painting and wallpapering are the most popular finishing options for surfaces sheathed with gypsum fiber board. Maximum smoothness can be achieved only by putting putty on everything, the joints between the plates, and the self-tapping screws. All work will be in three stages:

1. padding;
2. preliminary puttying of the place where the sheets are glued;
3. final putty of the entire surface completely, finishing stage.

Do not forget that you will need special diluted compounds for the installation of GVL elements.

How to putty GVL for painting and wallpaper:

Preparation by priming will improve the bonding properties of the putty with GVL. You can choose a primer from any company with a special marking for surfaces with absorbent properties. Apply the liquid with a roller, paying particular attention to the joints and corners. After drying, you can proceed to the main stage;

first it is necessary to cover up the gluing points of the gypsum fiber board and fastening. Before starting work, you need to check with your hand all the protruding elements, if you need to deepen the screws as much as possible. A self-adhesive mesh is glued to the seams, it prevents cracks and helps it to better hold in the seams. Dilute the filler of your choice according to the technology. With a spatula, the joints are completely filled with a putty mixture, a layer such as to hide the mesh. In the corners, first one side is processed, then the other. The indentations from the fasteners are covered with a cross. After drying, it is advisable to repeat the procedure. The recommended thickness of each layer is no more than one and a half millimeters. Of course, small irregularities and roughness will remain, which must be eliminated with a grinding device, on which a sanding mesh of different grain sizes is attached. There is a misconception that this is where you can finish the putty if you have chosen thick vinyl or non-woven wallpaper for wall decor. In fact, room lighting can highlight bad places, so try to go over with putty again ;;

for the final layer of putty, you will need a special high-tech polymer mixture, which will allow you to create the thinnest layer, less than one millimeter. The last layer is applied most carefully, close to ideal. Any connection must be absolutely inconspicuous under all conditions. This work is best done with different tools: wide and narrow spatulas. The first putty is applied to the second and all unnecessary is necessarily removed. With a wide spatula, the mixture is smeared over the GVL from the previous smear to a dry place. Professional craftsmen are able to apply the most common, but high-quality putty mixture so accurately that there is no need to do anything else. Small roughness is removed with a large spatula after drying.

In any case, in a building materials store, you will think about which putty is best for GVL. The choice of mixtures for these purposes depends on the price and manufacturer.

Secrets of GVL putty

When the decision is made to paste over the room with wallpaper, you need to remember that rolls need to be bought with a margin. They will firmly adhere to the walls if there were no drafts in the room when gluing, the windows were tightly closed.

So, it turns out three stages: processing of seams and final. When decorating with thin paper wallpaper for painting, it is recommended to putty with a final putty in two layers and sand with a fine sanding mesh.

If the choice of interior decoration fell on gypsum fiber sheets or slabs, then the service life is noticeably reduced. This leads to an undoubted saving not only of time, reduction of manual labor, but also saves money.

The options for attaching it to the walls are different. It can be used on metal profiles, on wooden beams, or simply glued onto special glue. Thus, quickly and less costly than leveling the walls with plaster and putty, it turns out to make the walls even. And they are practically ready for wallpapering and painting, as well as for facing with tiles or tiles.

Gypsum fiber sheets or slabs are a fairly versatile building material, since they can easily decorate walls, ceilings, floors, slopes, and even external cladding of buildings for various purposes.

Experienced professionals strongly recommend that you apply a primer coat after each work. Do not forget that it must be special, not destroying the glue at the joints. The primer will not be superfluous before the putty. And already when it is completely dry, you can process it again with a primer, and then any wallpaper, be it paper, non-woven, photofilm and others, will firmly adhere to a perfectly flat surface.

Also, based on experience, sheets of gypsum fiber shine through the wallpaper. And the option just to putty the joints and the places of deepening of the self-tapping screws is not suitable. But if it was decided to save money, then you can use a dense white primer to even out the color of the gypsum fiber board under the wallpaper.

Before direct coating with paint or wallpapering, it is advisable to sand the dried putty well, since all irregularities will be noticeable through the wallpaper, no matter what material they are.

Plasterboard is a very practical and easy-to-use material, and it is also inexpensive. The installation process excludes the "wet" cycle, but at the final stage, it is necessary to seal the mating lines between the sheets. The durability of the repair measures depends on the quality of the work, since the violation of the technology turns into cracks at the joints of the plates. Therefore, it makes sense to familiarize yourself with the features of the GCR filling procedure.

Question number 1: how to putty the joints between drywall sheets: tools and materials

Any construction operation is not complete without the presence of certain tools. Leveling the surface of gypsum plasterboards is no exception. To close the folds, you will need the following tools:

The latest developments in the construction industry in the form of rollers make it possible to efficiently process lines of joints between gypsum board sheets both at the outer and inner corners. This is important when quality formulations. The long handle makes it possible to work in rooms up to 3.5 meters high.

Necessary materials

From the materials it is necessary to prepare the following:

• Reinforcing tape in the form of a perforated paper strip or serpyanka. The use of the latter is justified when working in a new house, when a slight shrinkage is expected with the appearance of cracks between the slabs.
• Joint putty. Good results are shown by the use of Knauf Uniflot dry putty mixture.
• Primer for gypsum board, which increases the adhesion properties of the surface. Some formulations are water-repellent and antiseptic.

What kind of putty is used to seal the seams between drywall sheets in private housing?

When choosing mixtures for processing linear gypsum plasterboard joints, it is important to consider what the final finish will be in the end. For example, or plaster, you can use inexpensive materials, because the possible appearance of cracks does not threaten the integrity of the topcoat. Craftsmen mainly use Knauf products:

1. Fugenfüller.
2. Uniflot.

The first plaster on the list for drywall joints is just suitable for pretreatment under decorative plaster or wallpaper. The mixture is inexpensive, therefore it is very popular with developers. When working with Fugenfuller, it is advisable to use serpyanka as a reinforcing layer.

The second version of the putty mixture under the Uniflott brand is a more expensive product, because it contains polymer additives. The strength and quality of the coating created by this compound is much higher than that of Fugenfüller. Before as , their plane can also be processed by Uniflot. If you plan to use paint as a finish, then this mixture is just right.

Types of plasterboard edges

The transverse edge is the same for all types of gypsum plasterboards, it is always straight and not covered with a layer of cardboard. Another thing is the longitudinal edge of the sheet, there may be the following options:

• Direct (PC) - is done, as a rule, on gypsum-fiber boards. These joints are not sealed during roughing.
• Semicircular (PLUK) - an edge thinned from the front side of the sheet. The most common type of longitudinal end, which is sealed with a reinforcing tape and putty mixture.
• Beveled (CC) - the process of sealing these edges is quite laborious and consists of three to four stages with the obligatory use of a serpyanka.
• Rounded (ZK) - reinforcing tape is not used when sealing such seams.
• Seam (FK) - similar in shape to the PK edge, is mainly used on gypsum fiber board.

There are several other types of edges in production, but it is almost impossible to see them on the shelves of our building markets. The most common types of edges are PLUK and UK. They do not need additional processing, so they can be putty immediately.

How to putty joints between drywall boards: technological moments

The process includes preliminary preparation of the abutting edges. In places where the connection line is formed by a straight cut edge, you need to make chamfers. To do this, use a construction knife to cut the edge of the sheet at an angle of 45 ° to a width and depth of about 5 mm. Further, the folds are cleaned of dust and primed.

While the primer is drying, you should think about how to putty the joints between the plasterboard plates, in other words, start preparing the mixture. It is prepared according to the instructions on the package. A mixer is used to mix dry powder with water, turning it on at low speed. The finished solution resembles thick sour cream in consistency. Now you can start directly with the process:

• Using a narrow spatula, apply the mortar across the seam, while trying to rub it into the gap so that the mixture fills the thickness of the gypsum board. If the connecting lines exceed 3 meters in length, then it is worth dividing them into sections.
• Place reinforcing tape or fiberglass mesh on the applied mixture. With the rubbing movements of a spatula, immerse the mesh into the depth of the mortar.
• Use a 250 mm wide spatula to "pull out" the rest of the mixture on the sides of the joint in order to level the plane.
• The inner and outer corners are sealed using the same method using corner spatulas. At the same time, the grooves from the self-tapping screws are covered over.
• Using a sanding block, after the mixture has completely dried, the surface is trowelled in a circular motion.
• After sanding, remove residual dust and prime the joints with a primer.

In order for the putty of joints between drywall sheets to be performed efficiently, work should be started only after the humidity in the room has normalized. Temperature differences are also undesirable, which lead to the appearance of cracks.

The quality of the topcoat is taken care of in advance, even at the installation phase of the sheets. It is only necessary to dock the slabs on the profiles; their edges must not be left unsecured. The gap between the sheets is required, its size should be at least 3-5 mm, because in the future, cracks may appear.

Among the many interior finishing materials, drywall is recognized as one of the most common. This material is a gypsum board of a certain thickness and size, covered on both sides with a layer of cardboard. Such sheets are used to create volumetric structures, arches, align walls and create suspended ceilings from plasterboard of varying complexity.

Why do you need to putty?

The smooth surface of the boards does not require additional leveling. But at the time of assembly of the structure, butt seams appear, fastenings with self-tapping screws create irregularities, there are material defects. When leveling the surface with putty, all these defects are eliminated, and a single plane is created.

The cardboard on the surface of the drywall sheet is not intended for painting, it can deform or collapse, which will lead to the need to replace the material.

Using an open sheet of cardboard covering for wallpapering means that the next time you change the wallpaper, you will have to replace the boards, since the wallpaper is tightly glued to the cardboard, and you will have to tear them off together with the top layer of the board, after which it will lose strength.

Puttying drywall is necessary in order to:

• create a flat surface;
• protect the facing material from destruction;
• to carry out a single structure in conjugated places.

Before starting work on drywall putty, you should carefully examine the surface of the structure. Screws or self-tapping screws must be screwed in flush with the surface. If the head of the hardware is recessed, it should be replaced with another, longer one and screwed in again.

Docking seams should be cut. The sheet should have bevels along the seam at 45 degrees, allowing it to be sealed with putty. If the sheet of cardboard on the board has defects, they should be repaired. Subsequently, all defects will become noticeable.

At the same time, slopes, corners and radially mating surfaces are being prepared for further finishing. At the sharp corners of the slopes, it is necessary to fix a metal or plastic corner. It connects two uncut joints. At the installation site, cardboard and a little gypsum are removed from the gypsum board, the corner is glued in or sits on the putty, creating a geometric profile. For smooth transitions, special plastic overlays are used, which are attached with a stylus. You can see these operations in detail in the video.

How to choose a filler?

How to putty drywall is decided depending on the purpose of the room and the qualifications of the master. A wide range of building materials of this type are presented:

• cement;
• plaster;
• polymer putties.

At the same time, in places with high humidity, do not use gypsum-based putty. For professionals, the best material will be the professional material of the German company Krauf. But since this is a quickly drying material, it is better to use Vetonit polymer material for plasterboard putty with your own hands. This is a plastic putty that does not lose its quality during the day.

Material consumption per 1 square meter of surface on the packaging is indicated and it is not difficult to calculate the required amount for plasterboard putty with your own hands. When sealing drywall joints, you cannot do without a self-adhesive serpyanka mesh. It helps to create a solid structure.

Required tools and preparation of the composition

In order to make drywall putty you need:

• bucket;
• spatulas large and small;
• mixer for mixing the putty mass;
• slow-speed drill;
• rule.

At the same time, you should be aware that not every drill can withstand the mixing load, only a professional one. The amateur one can be used, including the reverse.

In addition, you will need a comfortable, stable stand for work at height.

Putty mixtures are supplied dry or ready-made. In order to use the ready-made mixture, it is necessary to put it out of the storage container into a bucket, bring it to the consistency of thick sour cream by stirring with the addition of water. The rest of the composition should be stored in a closed container.

Dry mixes are diluted in strict accordance with the recipe written on the package. If this requires a holding time of the composition before secondary mixing, it is clearly maintained. But in the future, the mixture should be used within the period of time indicated in the instructions.

The most effective are German Krauf mixtures, but their fast solidification allows only professionals to work with them. For do-it-yourself putty, it is better to use a plastic and long-drying ready-made putty Vetonit. In addition to this mixture for skilled hands, you can recommend the ready-made mixture "Prospectors". It lies flat on the surface, is flexible and easy to grind.

Operating procedure

Even before the plasterboard is putty, the slabs must be primed. This composition increases adhesion, and the subsequent layer adheres well to the surface of the processed material. Soil compositions are carried out on various bases. In this case, you cannot use an acrylic primer. In order for the cladding to be strong and durable, a layer of primer follows a layer of putty before painting or wallpapering.

How to putty drywall depends on the type of finish. One layer of putty is enough under the wallpaper, while the primer can be done with an adhesive. To prepare the base for painting or tiling, you need to create a stronger protective layer. It will include sequentially several operations.

1. Initial coat of primer followed by trowelling after drying.
2. Gluing fiberglass.
3. Finishing putty with stripping and priming.

Each of these operations strengthens the base, allowing it to carry more load.

The first layer of putty is applied to the primed surface after the obligatory work on the design of the corners and joint seams. In this case, the seams should be well dried, the caps are hidden in a protective composition, additional corners and plastic are processed.

"How to properly putty drywall - video" presents a step-by-step disassembled course in the course of work. It follows from it that work is carried out without interruption until the processing area is completed. The thickness of the applied layer does not exceed 1.5 mm. The plasterboard putty is distributed with sweeping movements with a large trowel. A small tool is used to deliver material from the bucket and remove residues from the rule.

The rule is required to remove irregularities on the canvas with its conical part when plastering drywall. For experienced craftsmen, this is irrelevant. But when plastering drywall with your own hands without work experience, the rule is a necessary tool.

It is important to use the entire putty solution before it hardens, as it loses its properties later on.

Why do you need resurfacing?

The surface obtained after finishing drywall putty can hide imperceptible flaws that will appear during front processing. Therefore, sanding the resulting surface will create a perfectly flat surface. The operation is performed after the final drying of the surface.

This will take 4 to 6 days, depending on the temperature and humidity in the room. When drying the surface after puttying, drafts of the surface are not terrible. Therefore, you can open the vents.

The grinding operation is accompanied by a lot of dusting. Therefore, you should use a respirator. After sanding and priming the surface, you can proceed with the veneer.

When creating a structure, it should be understood that the aesthetic design includes both accuracy and professionalism in the performance of all work. Only then will the appearance be complete and pleasing to the eye. Plasterboard plastering is the most important stage in the design creation.

More recently, the decoration of the room consisted in pasting the walls with simple paper wallpaper, but now many people have a question about how to properly putty drywall for painting, since the surface should be perfectly flat and smooth. This work can be done independently, adhering to a certain algorithm of actions.

Why putty drywall?

Some home craftsmen believe that plastering drywall under the wallpaper is a waste of time and effort. This work is very painstaking and requires special perseverance. In some situations, when decorative panels are used for surface cladding, it is possible not to putty the plasterboard surface. In other situations, you need to putty.

Seams and fastener caps must always be repaired, regardless of the finishing method. Also, during transportation or improper storage, GVL boards can deform, which can be easily corrected with putty.

Plastering of drywall walls must be performed, under wallpaper, painting, and decorative plaster. If ceramic tiles or PVC panels are used as facing material, it is enough just to seal the seams and fasteners.

Plasterboard putty technology

As soon as the drywall construction is ready, we proceed to puttying. In order to have an idea of ​​\ u200b \ u200bthe performance of the work, we will analyze the complete algorithm for finishing drywall with our own hands for painting. So:

• surface primer from gypsum plasterboard;
• sealing of fastener caps;
• putty of seams using serpyanka;
• installation of a perforated corner;
• applying a starting layer of putty;
• padding;
• finishing layer of putty;
• priming for finishing lining.

Which putty is best for drywall? You can use any - plaster, polymer, cement (for wet rooms).

Finishing polymer coatings are applied in a thin layer, while the surface is smooth.

Gypsum putties are of two types - starting, applied with the first base layer, and finishing. These compositions differ in plasticity and the size of the particles that are in the composition. These mixtures are used very often, their cost is not high.

Putty for GVL is made in two forms - in containers, ready for use, and dry, which must be diluted with water before use.

Sealing and fastening

First of all, before the final putty of drywall structures, preparatory work should be done: prime the drywall and seal all joints. The work should be done using the following technology:

• dilute the composition according to the manufacturer's instructions. It is worth remembering that gypsum mixtures do not last long, so you need to dilute exactly as much as you can work out in 30 minutes;
• with a small spatula, apply the mixture to each head of the fastener over the entire surface of the gypsum fiber board. Carefully remove the excess, do not leave too much material on the caps, forming irregularities. Once all the screws are masked, you can proceed to the graying stage;
• close up the seams in the material. It is worth noting that there are two types of joints in the construction of large drywall structures - vertical and horizontal, and the filling technology is different.

For high-quality sealing of seams, it is worth tearing apart the technology of each type in detail.

Vertical connections

It should be noted that a sheet of drywall has a beveled edge on the vertical side, which should be carefully hammered in with a starting putty before sealing. Then they should be glued with a serpentine, to prevent the appearance of cracks later. As soon as the seams are glued, a small layer of putty is applied to the serpyanka using a wide spatula, so that the surface becomes even. As soon as all the seams are sealed, work is stopped until the solution is completely dry.

Trim seams

Before sealing the horizontal GVL connections, you need to do the following:

1. to expand the seams - cut the edge at an angle of 45 degrees on each side of the joint;
2. apply a brush to the primer, and walk along the seam to remove dust and increase adhesion;
3. as soon as the soil dries out, we clog the joints with putty, while it is more convenient to work with a small spatula;
4. align the seam surface and glue the serpyanka;
5. using a large spatula, apply a small layer of putty to the mesh.

This completes the work on sealing the seams and masking the caps of the screws.

Arrangement of external and internal corners

Before starting this process, you need to prepare:

• perforated corner;
• serpyanka.

Serpyanka is used for arranging internal corners when puttingty plasterboard boxes, wall and ceiling joints. The technology is simple:

• apply a small amount of the composition to the corners;
• glue the serpyanka;
• remove the remnants of the material with a spatula - in this case, the serpyanka will be pressed into the solution;
• apply a thin layer of putty, masking the mesh.

To equip the outer corner, use a perforated, corner profile, for this:

1. cut off the element of the desired size with metal scissors;
2. cut off the edges by 45 degrees to prevent the edge from wrapping when puttying;
3. apply a thick putty to the corner of the structure, with small sticks on both sides in a checkerboard pattern and press the corner into the material;
4. check the level of the installed element, if required, immediately carry out an adjustment until the material has set;
5. remove excess mortar with a spatula so that the surface of the corner is level with the plane;
6. leave the corner until the solution sets, or until it dries completely;
7. then the surface is sanded and a small layer of putty is applied over the entire surface of the corner on both sides.

After all the corners are in their proper shape, they should be left for 12 hours, until they dry completely.

Before continuing to putty the surface, you need to carefully grind the corners and joints, so the quality of the drywall finishing with finishing compounds will be better. You need to grind with an abrasive mesh with a mesh of 180 microns.

Leveling the plane of gypsum plasterboard with putty

In order for the work on drywall filling to be done quickly, you need to prepare a large spatula (400 mm), and a spatula "help" (100 mm).

The first layer will be the application of a starting layer of putty - the layer thickness is 5 mm, usually more on drywall is not needed. This layer will be enough to mask all irregularities in the material and possible defects.

The mixture is prepared as written on the manufacturer's packaging.

The solution should be the consistency of thick sour cream without lumps. This can be achieved with a drill and a mixer attachment.

The technique of plastering the surface of drywall is simple: we take a large spatula, at its end with a small spatula, lay out the roller from the putty. We press the blade to the surface and stretch the composition. We repeat several times, filling in some piece of the wall or ceiling. Then we clean the blade and run it over the surface that has just been putty, leveling it. You need to align as carefully as possible - it will take less time for sanding.

When the drywall is finished, wait until it dries. Then you take the already familiar tool - a bar with a net and level out all the flaws. Sanding is completed, remove dust, pass the surface again with a deep penetration primer. After drying, proceed to the application of the second layer.

Next, you need to putty drywall with a finishing compound. As they wrote, it can also be based on gypsum, like the starting one, or maybe based on polymers. Both are suitable, but with some it is more difficult to work - they quickly begin to roll down and freeze.

The finishing putty is made more liquid and applied in a thinner layer. The application technique is the same, nothing changes. In addition to the fact that it is more difficult to work, it spreads worse, but you need to stretch it in a thin layer and quickly align. On the primer, everything is much better, and without it, the lower layer quickly draws moisture out of the fresh plaster, and it begins to roll. After applying the finishing putty, they again wait until everything is dry, then they begin to level it, but this time they use not a mesh - noticeable grooves remain from it, but sandpaper with a fine grain. It is not so convenient to work with it - it quickly clogs up, but the surface is smooth. If you prepare the surface for painting, we do the backlighting from below or from the side and you can use not an incandescent lamp, but an LED one - all the flaws are visible. Even very small ones.

To create a beautiful, flawless interior in an apartment, the walls in the room must be perfectly flat. The finishing putty of the walls, which is easy to do with your own hands, can help in this. To do this, it is enough to adhere to the selected algorithm for performing the work.

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Plasterboard putty under wallpaper is the key to a successful repair

Putty is one of the main and highly desirable stages of rough finishing of plasterboard surfaces Today, the decoration of walls and ceilings from plasterboard is becoming more and more popular. This is due to the fact that the material is inexpensive in price, easy to install and use. Drywall offers many possibilities. With its help, you can align walls and ceilings, create a wide variety of designs. However, simply walls and ceilings made of plasterboard will not look very aesthetically pleasing. Therefore, wallpaper or paint is used for its decor. Plasterboard putty under the wallpaper is not a prerequisite, but it is highly desirable.

Many are worried about the question - is it possible to paste over the walls without putty. In theory, this option is possible, but professionals advise against it.

It is important to take into account that, despite the perfectly smooth surface, which assumes unhindered gluing of wallpaper onto drywall, the method of pasting walls and ceilings without putty can spoil the material once and for all.

Drywall requires special preparation before wallpapering. This procedure will prolong the life of the material and will also provide the surface with a beautiful appearance.

If the wallpaper is glued to the gypsum board surface without prior filler, then the likelihood of damage to the structure during their dismantling increases dramatically

Why you can't glue wallpaper without putty:

• When wallpaper is glued onto drywall, their strong adhesion occurs, which leads to the impossibility of replacing the wallpaper in the future. You will either have to rip the wallpaper from the drywall, which will ruin it, or stick new wallpaper over the old finish.
• Drywall has a characteristic shade that will glow through the light-colored wallpaper, resulting in a change in its natural shade.
• Despite the smooth surface of the drywall, when installing it, joints and seams are formed that need to be putty, otherwise the appearance of the surface covered with wallpaper will be poor.

Putty is an important stage in finishing work. It gives the surface an ideal shape, provides reliable protection of the material, makes it possible to make the next repair without problems and additional costs.

Do I need to putty drywall before gluing wallpaper

When doing repairs with their own hands, many people have a question about the expediency of a putty. After all, the procedure takes time, and the flat surface of drywall seems ideal for gluing wallpaper directly on it.

To putty drywall or not is everyone's personal business. It is important to familiarize yourself with the repair rules before performing any repair work, and consult with professional builders.

It is the professionals who advise not to glue the wallpaper directly onto the drywall. The only plus in this situation will be time savings only for a short period. When deciding to glue new wallpaper, you will have to change not only them, but also install new sheets of drywall.

Plasterboard structures include sheet joints and attachment points, which will be clearly visible on the surface of incorrectly pasted wallpaper

Consequences of gluing wallpaper without putty:

• Irregularities and seams may be visible.
• Light-colored wallpapers can change color.
• When removing old wallpaper, sheets of gypsum board will also have to be replaced.

You can glue the wallpaper on drywall. For example, if this is the last renovation. When gluing wallpaper directly onto drywall, the procedure for preparing the walls is still inevitable. Before gluing the canvases, it is imperative to apply several layers of primer, which will protect the surface from the appearance of mold and mildew.

If in the future the wallpaper is supposed to be replaced, it is better to spend a little time and provide a high-quality surface for finishing work.

How to putty drywall under the wallpaper correctly

Putty is a simple construction process when it comes to drywall. It is easy to putty on a smooth surface. The most important task is to putty joints, remove surface defects.

Before puttingty, it is important to check the surface of the gypsum board for self-tapping screws that can stick out of the wall. To do this, you need to run a spatula over the entire surface, listening to the metal sound. If self-tapping screws are found, they should be screwed in even deeper, while the depth should not reach half the sheet thickness.

Serpyanka is needed for high-quality sealing of gypsum board joints. It is glued to the surface, then a layer of putty is applied. If you do not use tape, subsequently, cracks may appear at the joints of the sheets.

The surface preparation process includes putty, primer and seams with special tape.

1. Prime the surface to protect the drywall from mold and mildew.
2. For a better application of the putty, the surface can be sanded, eliminating unnecessary irregularities and dirt.
3. Prepare the necessary working tools. This requires two spatulas: a large and a small one. A large spatula is used to apply a putty material to the surface, a small putty is applied to a large one, while evenly distributing the material over the entire working surface of the spatula.
4. It is necessary to apply the putty strictly from top to bottom. It is important to follow all the rules and apply the putty in two layers. The first layer will eliminate all defects on the surface, the second will complete the complete finish of the drywall. After applying the initial layer, you need to let it dry. The second coat can only be applied to dry surfaces.
5. After the second layer of putty has dried, it is necessary to sand the surface. For safety reasons, a respirator and goggles must be worn. Sanding is done in a circular motion, with minimal pressure on the wall.
6. Apply a primer. It will protect the surface and improve the adhesion of the glue and wallpaper. For reliability, the primer can be done twice.

A layer of primer will also protect the decorative wall surface from possible dampness.

In order for the wallpaper to lay on the surface easily, the putty must be even, without irregularities and depressions. It is important to perform all its stages correctly, make sure that each layer dries out, only then apply a new layer of putty and primer.

How to choose the right filler

The quality of the putty depends on the materials from which it is made. There are many companies on the market that offer putty at a wide variety of prices.

It is important to understand that the minimum price indicates the low quality of materials. Therefore, when choosing a putty, you should not save.

The putty can be designed for different types of work, so it is important to choose a specialized putty.

It is not recommended to choose a loose putty if there is no experience in finishing work. Failure to comply with the proportions when breeding it can ruin all the work done before.

Material selection rules:

• Do not use putty marked "for outdoor use".
• Do not use a putty that has already expired.
• You can't use too cheap material. Firstly, such material will not ensure the quality of the putty and its reliability. Secondly, the consumption of such materials will be large, which will lead to costs.
• Give preference to ready-made mixtures. This will allow you not to waste time preparing the solution, and will provide confidence in its quality.

Correctly selected filler material will provide a high-quality surface that will be a reliable protection for drywall and an ideal surface for wallpapering.

Do-it-yourself drywall putty under the wallpaper (video)

Drywall is a modern building material that is widely used for renovation work. Consumers choose this material because it is inexpensive, high quality and easy to install. Those who carry out repairs on their own, after installing gypsum plasterboards, think about the advisability of puttingty before applying wallpaper. Professionals definitely advise to putty drywall. This will provide a solid surface. Drywall will last a long time, and boring wallpapers can be changed to new ones without additional costs and efforts.

homeli.ru

Plasterboard for wallpaper

Do-it-yourself plaster of drywall walls under the wallpaper

An important stage in the renovation work is the preparation of surfaces for painting and wallpapering. Drywall is a popular coating because it perfectly insulates and levels walls and does not require the dirty work of plastering. The question of whether to putty plasterboard under the wallpaper, each owner decides on their own, but experts recommend puttingty.

If you do not putty the surface, then when using light wallpaper, the seams will become noticeable, and the wall will not look very aesthetically pleasing. In addition, after a while, the old wallpaper will be difficult to remove, since they are removed along with the cardboard cover. The walls will have to be renewed and reinforced with plasterboard. Therefore, it is easier to remove the old wallpaper if the drywall is putty under the wallpaper. After cleaning the old canvas, an even layer remains, ready for pasting with new wallpaper.

What type of filler should you choose?

An important role in the performance of work on putty is played by the material, the speed of the processes and the result depend on its quality.

• Do not purchase material marked “for outdoor use”. Such a putty can be intended for finishing work on the outside of the house, facades and contain harmful substances;
• Check the expiration date of the material;
• Do not buy cheap putty, as its consumption will be higher and the quality will be worse;
• It is better to use a ready-made putty, since dry material requires mixing with a mixer and special containers. The finished mixture is always prepared correctly and it is easier for the master to work with it.

For leveling surfaces, putties are used for various purposes.

Varieties of putty materials

• Leveling putty (masks visible defects);
• Putty for the second layer (prevents the first layer from peeling off, creates a smooth and perfectly flat surface);
• Special putty for filling cracks and joints.

The leveling putty can be made from cement, plaster or polymeric materials. It should be noted that it is not advisable to use gypsum plaster in a humid room, since this material is not resistant to moisture. It is better to use a cement putty, however, when it dries, it can create microcracks. The most acceptable polymer material, but it is more expensive.

Most often, builders use finishing putties from well-known manufacturers. Such putties eliminate the smallest defects and are applied in a thin layer not exceeding 1-1.5 mm. Layers with the help of "superfinishing putties" are even thinner - less than 0.3-0.5 mm. The variety of putties allows you to choose the optimal material and perform high-quality work.

Plasterboard putty

Plastering drywall under wallpaper is carried out in several stages, starting with surface preparation, priming, putty, and ending with surface grinding. The primer must dry well before applying the first coat. The optimum wall temperature is at least 5?, Otherwise the adhesion of the putty material to the drywall will be fragile. It is better to use the entire ready-made mixture in buckets at once, since the unused mass becomes unusable after storage. If the mixture is prepared independently, then for this you need a drill and a mixer, the prepared putty is insisted or applied immediately (indicated in the instructions).

Drywall sanding

To obtain a perfectly smooth surface, drywall after putty is sanded using a special-purpose trowel with a fine emery coating. However, sand the surface carefully so as not to remove too much, otherwise the cardboard cover will show through.

After this process, the room is removed from dust, then a primer is applied to the surface of the drywall. Drywall after carrying out the listed works is ready for painting or wallpapering. It should be remembered that all processes (cleaning, putty, priming, grouting) must take place on a dry wall and apply each subsequent layer after the previous one has dried. Otherwise, pellets may form, which will negatively affect the operation.

Drywall primer

Preparatory work includes cleaning the surface from dirt and dust, removing improperly screwed self-tapping screws, and applying a mesh (serpyanka) between the joints of drywall so that cracks do not form afterwards. Further, defects are eliminated - dents or scratches are covered with putty. The primer is applied to an entire sheet of drywall, or joints, corners and repaired areas are selectively primed. This operation requires a roller and a special primer. The material consumption is small, one layer is usually sufficient and the primer does not need to be saved.

Nuances when carrying out puttying

• For convenience, it is better to have two spatulas - wide and narrow. A wide spatula is needed for applying layers and leveling the surface, and a narrow one is needed for finer work and removing the remains of the first layer;
• An angled spatula is useful for working in corners;
• You can use the building level to determine how even the layers are laid;
• The seams are started from the top, putty is applied to the seams and lightly pressed into the recess with longitudinal movements. When performing this work, you should not save material, since after the putty dries, pits may form at the seams;
• When applying several layers, the next layer is always applied after the previous one has dried.

The main guarantee of successful work is accuracy and patience, since wallpapering requires a perfectly flat and smooth surface. To check the quality of the putty, you can make control strokes, this will allow you to feel the material and find out its properties (how quickly it sets). If you observe the correct angle and pressure of the trowel, then as a result of sweeping movements, a smooth and even surface is obtained. The resulting minor protrusions are easily removed with an abrasive mesh. Drywall sanding

Tools used during work

To carry out puttying work, you will need special tools - spatulas of different widths, an abrasive mesh, a roller, a float. A wide spatula is required for leveling, and a narrow spatula is required to remove an extra layer of putty or work in hard-to-reach places. When working with corner joints, use a corner spatula or special plastic or aluminum corners. It is recommended to first treat all corners and then apply the entire layer of putty.

A roller is used for priming work, and a float with a fine emery cloth is used for grinding. To clean the surface or remove excess layer, use an abrasive mesh. Finished surfaces should be carefully treated with mesh to avoid minor scratches. If the master prepares the mixture on his own, then you must have a low-speed drill and a mixer attachment.

Thus, plastering drywall walls under wallpaper is an important and painstaking process that requires skill and skill, the quality of the work done depends on the accuracy of the master. Your home will become cozy, beautiful, and the interior stylish and fashionable, if the best materials are used, and the repair processes are carried out efficiently and correctly.

shabashka-pro.ru

Plasterboard putty under wallpaper + video

Recently, drywall has become often used to insulate and level walls. This choice is very convenient, as it allows you to quickly and efficiently level the surface. Also, such work is considered clean and after completion you will not need to waste time removing dirt. In this article we will analyze how to do it yourself drywall putty under the wallpaper.

Why putty drywall

Many do not understand why putty drywall under the wallpaper, if the surface is already perfectly flat. The thing is that it will be very difficult to remove the wallpaper from the wall without putty. The sheets will be removed along with the drywall layer and the wall cladding will have to be re-done. Also, if you decide to glue thin wallpaper of a light shade, then the seams between the sheets will be visible. Therefore, we highly recommend to putty the walls in order to avoid possible problems with wallpapering.

What putty to buy

It is very important to buy quality material. In order for your purchase to meet expectations, follow these tips:

The first step is to clean the dust and debris from the surface of the sheet. Then you will need to inspect the drywall to identify incorrectly screwed screws. You will need to hold a spatula over the sheet, if the blade does not cling to anything, you do not need to change anything. If obstacles interfere with the spatula, it will be necessary to tighten the screws.

Also, make sure that the screws are not screwed too deep into the walls, otherwise problems may arise with the putty. If the screw is screwed in deeply, remove it and screw in a new one a short distance.

If defects were found on the surface - cracks, dents and scratches, it will be necessary to seal them with putty before applying the main layer. In the event that the defect is serious, the filling must be carried out in several layers, but remember that before continuing, the layer of the mortar must definitely dry.

Surface priming

We recommend applying the primer to the entire sheet. In no case should you save on material, since the success of the work done depends on the primer. It will protect the walls from mold and other bacteria, and will also help prevent the wallpaper from peeling off.

It is necessary to apply the primer with a roller. It only takes one layer, so it won't take a lot of time and effort. After that, you will need to glue the joints with a special reinforcing tape. It must be applied so that it is exactly in the middle of the seam formed by two sheets of drywall. Watch a video that will help you better understand the surface primer with your own hands:

Preparing putty

If a ready-made mixture was purchased, it will be possible to proceed immediately to putty and wallpapering. But the dry solution will first need to be prepared according to the instructions on the package. Usually it is necessary to dissolve it in warm water and stir it well using a construction mixer. If you don't have a mixer, try using a drill attachment, which can also help. In no case try to stir the mixture by hand, as you will not be able to do this, and most likely you will ruin the solution.

Remember that some mixtures require infusion, while others are recommended to be applied immediately. After preparation, stir the solution again. In order to prepare with high quality, be sure to follow the tips and instructions on the package, otherwise you risk spoiling the putty and putting the wallpaper under attack.

To do the work with your own hands efficiently and avoid stupid mistakes, we recommend using the following tips:

In order to understand in more detail all the nuances of plastering drywall walls under the wallpaper with your own hands, we strongly recommend watching the following training video:

Surface grinding

Since the wallpaper can only be glued onto a perfectly flat surface, the plastered walls will also need to be sanded. To do this, you will need to use an emery float. Remember that a lot of dust will be generated during the process, so we recommend that you wear protective equipment that can protect your eyes and body.

After completing the work, do not forget to remove the dirt with a vacuum cleaner. One more layer of primer will need to be applied to the surface, and now it will be possible to proceed directly to wallpapering. Watch the following video to better understand the nuances of sanding for wallpapering:

As you can see, it is not so difficult to putty drywall under the wallpaper with your own hands. The main thing is to do everything carefully and not to rush anywhere. Remember that if a mistake is made, all wallpapering is at great risk. For a better acquaintance with the putty of the walls under the wallpaper, we recommend watching the training video:

Gypsum fiber sheets (GVL) are an excellent building and finishing material that has found wide application in modern technologies and floors. We will tell you how to build a plasterboard partition and what is the DIY wall decoration of GVL.

Partition construction

Structure and composition

Before starting work, you should determine what elements our partition will consist of.

The structure and composition of the plasterboard wall:

1. Frame made of galvanized metal profile... Includes the following elements: rack-mount profile (PS) for vertical frame parts and guide profile (PN) - for horizontal wall-to-ceiling and floor abutments;
2. Soundproof filler... In this capacity, non-combustible polystyrene foam or mineral wool slabs (glass wool) are usually used;
3. Frame cladding, double-sided... It is carried out with gypsum fiber sheets (GVL) by fixing them to the frame racks with self-tapping screws on both sides of the structure;
4. Filling seams and joints... For these purposes, they use fast-hardening putties for joints such as KnaufFugenfuller or KnaufUniflot, as well as fiberglass reinforcing tape, which is popularly called "serpyanka";
5. Wall surface leveling putty... It is necessary to create a flat plane on the surface of the structure, it is performed by applying a solution to the walls with a thin uniform layer;
6. Finishing putty... It is necessary if you plan to paint the walls. It is carried out with any finishing plaster mixture, which is applied in a thin layer, and after drying, it is sanded with an abrasive coated float or emery cloth;
7. Finishing... This can be wallpaper, panels, decorative plasters and other facing coatings. In this case, the finishing putty is not produced.

For the construction of the frame, the following elements are used: PS and PN profiles. They come in various sizes:

Sketch of the cross-section of the PS profile	Marking		Sketch of the section of the PN profile	Marking	Aspect ratio, axb, mm
	PS 50/50	50x50		MON 50/40	50x40
	PS 65/50	65x50		MON 65/40	65x40
	PS 75/50	75x50		MON 75/40	75x40
	PS 100/50	100x50		MON 100/40	100x40

As you can see, in various brands of profiles, only the size of side a changes, while side b remains unchanged. Therefore, when purchasing a set of profile elements, make sure that the dimension a for the upright and guide rails is the same, otherwise their joint installation will not be possible.

Depending on the height of the structure, profiles of different sizes are used (the size of the side is indicated, a, mm):

• Up to 3 meters - 65;
• From 3 to 4.5 meters - 75;
• Over 4.5 meters - 100.

The maximum height of partitions that can be built using this technology is 5 meters. In the work can also be used auxiliary profiles with a side dimension a = 50 mm for the installation of horizontal lintels, framing holes, etc.

As sound insulation, you can use polystyrene foam boards with a fire retardant thickness of 50 mm, as well as mineral wool boards with a thickness of 50 - 100 mm. These products fill the gap between the frame skin.

To cut GVL sheets, use a construction knife (for longitudinal and transverse straight cuts), a hacksaw for GVL (for cutting rectangular holes) and a drill with a circular saw (for cutting round holes up to 80 mm in diameter).

Important! Before installation, the sheets must be held in the room where the work is planned for at least 4 days in order for them to acquire the same humidity.

Assembling the frame

The instructions for assembling a metal frame are simple and straightforward:

1. With the help of a coated cord on the floor, we beat off the line of the partition according to the project. The line should be strictly perpendicular to the opposite walls. Then, using a plumb line, we transfer the markings to the walls and ceiling;

1. We take the PN and cut two segments along the length of the line on the floor, glue them with sealing tape and fix them along the floor and ceiling using BS-K 8x50 mm dowels and 4.2x51 mm galvanized screws with a pitch of 50 cm, but not less than 3 per one segment profile. We make sure that the details are located exactly according to the marking;

1. We take the PS and cut out two segments along the height of the room minus 5 - 10 mm, which we glue with sealing tape and fix along the walls between the guides. The step of installing the screws is 100 cm, but not less than 3 for one piece of the rail;

1. Next, we expose the PS on the sides of the doorway, which we reinforce with wooden bars inserted into the profile. For work, we use a plumb line or a level, the parts are connected using special fasteners in the profile structure or galvanized self-tapping screws 4.2x14 mm.

1. We make the upper border of the doorway from the PN segment, which we reinforce with a vertical crossbar (or two) from the PS, installed between it and the ceiling guide;

1. We install the PS with a pitch of 402 mm along the entire partition, except for the doorway. We observe verticality, if the intended place of the joint of the sheets did not fall on the substation, then we put an additional profile in this place.

We connect the profiles with screws after the PS is inserted into the PN:

Sheathing and soundproofing

After the end of the frame assembly, it should be sheathed with GVL sheets. To do this, cut out the sheets and cut out the necessary parts. If the vertical size of the sheet does not overlap the height of the structure, then horizontal jumpers from the PN of a smaller size should be installed at the joining point, or holes for joining should be cut out in the normal profile.

The sheets are fixed to the frame with two-thread self-tapping screws with a self-centered head measuring 3.9x30 mm with a pitch of 30 cm at a distance of 12 mm from the edge of the gypsum sheet. The length of the screw should allow it to enter the profile by 1 cm. A gap of 10 mm is left between the sheets and the enclosing structures, and 5 mm between adjacent sheets.

Fastening is carried out from an angle in two perpendicular directions: vertical and horizontal:

After sheathing one side, the structure is filled with sheets of mineral wool, inserting them between the posts so that they are slightly compressed and do not fall. Then sheathing of the other side of the partition is performed, thereby closing the soundproofing layer.

Important! Joining of sheets (horizontal or vertical) is performed only on the profile. If there is no profile at the junction of neighboring GVLs, it must be added.

Wall decoration

For finishing and leveling the walls, GVL is glued to their surface with putty or glue. If the irregularities on the walls exceed 20 mm, then strips of gypsum with a width of 100 mm are first glued to the wall, to which the sheets are then glued using a putty:

Here, as in the case of the partition, sheets are preliminarily marked and cut out, which are then glued to the walls, creating the most even surface. If you are not intimidated by the higher price, use waterproof products.

Important! Remember to cut out the holes for sockets and switches in advance. This is easily done with an electric drill with a circular saw.

We maintain a standard gap of 5 mm (for gypsum board) or 1 mm (for gypsum board) between the sheets, which will then be filled with putty.

If the walls are too crooked, or their internal insulation is required, the frame finishing method is used. For this, the wall is pre-leveled with a structure made of PS and PN, which are fixed to the surface with dowels or brackets.

The step of the racks and the principle of assembling the frame is the same as in the construction of the partition, only here each rack and horizontal part are attached to the wall in three places.

After assembling the frame, it is sewn up with drywall like the frame cladding from the previous chapter. The space between the wall and the sheathing can be filled with insulation.