Undoubtedly, people who live in a private house or who often go on hikes need such an irreplaceable tool as an ax. To purchase it, you just need to go to the market.

If you have questions about the quality of the purchased ax, you can make it yourself. Moreover, this can be done very easily if you use the instructions and tips for making it.

Classification of axes

Axes are of the following types:

1. Joiners. Light, small axes with a sharp blade. Designed for undercutting and precise work with wood.
2. Carpentry universal. Axes of various weights. They don't have a big handle. They are used for inaccurate woodworking.
3. Lumberjack's ax. Used for chopping wood, has a wide blade and a long handle.
4. Ice ax. Used in mountain climbing. Consists of a spike, a head, a blade and a handle sharpened at the base. Outwardly, it looks like a pickaxe.
5. Cleaver. A cone-shaped ax with a lot of weight. The shape and weight help to split hard wood.
6. Blacksmith. With such an ax it is possible to chop off metal materials. They apply an ax to the place where it is necessary to chop off, and beat them with a hammer on the butt.
7. Potes. With its help, they cut a tree. For efficiency, the ax has a rounded blade.
8. Povarskaya. An ax with a shortened handle and a heavy and sharp cutting surface.
9. Paznik. Used to cut grooves with a rib onto a blade. The cutting part is perpendicular to the handle.
10. Fireman. Ax with a metal handle that is insulated to withstand a voltage of 1000W. Its peculiarity is that there is a spike on the butt, which is used to cut through the rubble.
11. Assault firefighter. A massive ax with a long handle. In case of fire, heavy structures are broken with the help of it.
12. Tourist. A small ax with a short handle. Can be combined with a knife or saw. For safety, it comes with a cover.
13. Tsalda. The ax blade, made in the shape of a sickle, is used to clear the area from small bushes.

Self-production

The order of work is as follows:

Hatchet cutting works

Before starting work, it is necessary to make cross-sections at the top and bottom of the timber. The depth of the cuts should not reach the line of the ax by 2-3 mm. An extra layer of wood is removed with a chisel. Use a rasp to cut out places where corners and transitions are needed. At the end, the hatchet is sanded with sandpaper.

Choosing the piercing part

At home, a metal sheet cannot be made, so you need to know what to look for when choosing it in a building market:

• ideally, steel should be marked in accordance with GOST;
• the eyelet must be in the form of a cone;
• the blade should not have dents, bends or jags;
• if you look at the butt, then its ends should be perpendicular to the blade.

Planting an ax on a hatchet

This can be done by performing the following simple operations:

1. On the hatchet in the upper part, transverse and longitudinal cuts are made.




2. Cut 5 wedges from hardwood.




3. Gauze soaked in resin is wound over the handle for tighter passage into the eyelet.




4. Hammer the ax into the eye of the ax.




5. Drive wedges into the incisions.




6. After drying, the protruding parts of the wedges are cut off.

Sharpening the blade

Good functionality of the ax will ensure the correct sharpening of the blade. Depending on the type of work performed, the sharpening angle should be selected.

For example, a taiga ax is sharpened at an angle of 25-30 degrees. If fresh wood is to be cut, it must be sharpened at a 25 degree angle.

If a grinding wheel is used, the butt must be held at a 45 degree angle. All movements are performed smoothly, without jerking.

As you can see, having in your arsenal a small set of tools, instructions for making an ax, it is not at all difficult to make it according to your size and needs.

Look video instruction for making a taiga ax with your own hands:

The ax is one of the most famous and affordable tools in the arsenal of most summer residents and professional craftsmen. If used correctly, it can simplify many of your workflows, resulting in great results. An ax can not only be bought ready-made in a specialized store, but also made at home. It will not take a lot of time, effort and money. Today we will take a closer look at how to correctly make an ax with our own hands.

How to select and prepare wood?

Many works are impracticable without a well-sharpened and strong ax. This tool is often needed both in everyday life and in larger-scale works. In retail outlets, you can find many different models of such tools, because there are quite a few types of axes themselves. It is possible to choose the ideal option in accordance with any requirements.

But there are also cases when the consumer could not find a suitable tool for himself. Many people in such situations find an easy way out for themselves - they make an ax on their own. For a tool to be of high quality, reliable and durable, it must consist of good elements. So, to create a hatchet, it is very important to choose the right material.

Not every kind of wood is suitable for creating this part of the ax. It is believed that a true master will go around the entire forest before finding the very tree from which it will be possible to make an ax. In most cases, the specified element of the ax is built from the root section of a birch, and even better, if we use the growths that are present on its trunk. These parts are characterized by a very dense and curled structure.

Birch is not the only tree that can make a good ax. Instead, it is permissible to refer to trees such as oak, maple, acacia, ash and other hardwoods. According to experienced craftsmen, beech, oak, larch, walnut and elm produce the most reliable, comfortable and durable handles of the highest quality. But it is not enough to find the ideal material for making a hatchet. It is also necessary to competently prepare him for the upcoming work.

The workpieces must be dried well. This is done only in natural conditions, and it often takes a lot of time - on average 3-4 years, or even longer (5 years will be quite enough). The wood should be dried exclusively in a dark and dry place where there is good ventilation. Precipitation, moisture and water should not penetrate into the space where natural material will be prepared. Otherwise, there will simply not be any sense from such drying, and you will not be able to make a good hatchet.

How to make a template?

If you have already prepared and dried to the required degree of material, then you should proceed to the next stage of creating a handle for an ax. Next, you need to competently make a convenient template, which will be an excellent assistant in further work.

It is important to take into account the fact that there are quite strict rules governing the shape of the ax based on the main type of device. So, light tools, the weight of which usually ranges from 0.8 to 1 kg, are usually made with a handle having a length of 0.4-0.6 m. As for more "serious" heavy axes, there is a length of 0.55-0.65 m. It should also be borne in mind that all existing types of axes are divided according to their basic functionality.

So, the following types of these tools are distinguished:

• carpenter's;
• lumberjack;
• delimbing;
• cleaver;
• butcher's.

Before embarking on the independent design of such a tool, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the detailed drawings of different handle models.

When making a template, you should take into account a number of important features.

• So that in the process of work the ax does not slip out and does not jump out of the hands at the moment of the swing, its "tail" must be made a little wider than the place of capture.
• When making a hatchet for a cleaver, it is necessary to make a part with a length of 0.75-0.95 m. Carpentry tools are made short. Their handle generally reaches the 0.5 m mark.
• To the parameter of the length of the handle, the will of the butt, it is necessary to add another 8-10 cm for the allowance. It will be possible to cut it off after installing the butt. It is very important to make sure that the tree does not start to split at this moment.

The template with its correct shape and all dimensions will need to be applied to paper or cardboard.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

It is not difficult to prepare an ax with your own hands. To do this, you must adhere to a not very complex technology of work. Let's get acquainted with it:

• mark the workpiece using a template;
• after that, it can be carefully cut out with a jigsaw or other similar tool;
• further, the prepared part will need to be turned on a special machine and polished.

There are a number of important rules that must be adhered to in the course of work.

• The processing of the attachment place of the hatchet must be carried out as carefully and accurately as possible so as not to accidentally remove the excess part of the tree. Otherwise, the butt simply cannot be firmly fixed in place. It is better to periodically try on the handle to the eyelet, so that in the end you get a small margin (no more than 2 cm).
• Do not use the file in the process of finishing the part. This will lead to the inevitable loosening of the wood. Because of this, it will be more difficult to work with him further. It is better to use fine abrasive sandpaper with a grinder instead of a file. You will need to move the tool along the wood fibers.
• It is necessary to give the final, correct and beautiful shape to the fixing place of the handle, taking into account the angle of the butt nozzle. As for the cleaver - for him the specified angle should be approximately 85 degrees. For a standard ax, 75 degrees.

When making a hatchet yourself, you need to act very carefully. There is no need to rush. If you wish, you can decorate the handle of the tool with patterns and carved decorations (for example, you can wrap it with a jute cord - it will also hold the blade more securely). When the hatchet is ready, it will be necessary to correctly install the cutting part on it.

Let's consider how to do this.

• Match the top of the part to the eyelet of the blade. Remove the excess wood with a knife. Be careful.
• On the handle, exposed horizontally, put the cutting part on top. Then you need to put a mark on the handle with a pencil, to which it will be driven in. Divide the line and make another mark.
• Lock the handle in an upright position using a vise. The wide piece should be at the top. Prepare a hacksaw for metal. Cut exactly to the second wedge mark.

• At a specialized outlet, pick up a metal wedge or make it yourself from wood.
• Place the board on a separate countertop. Expose the blade to it. Lay it upside down. Throw the prepared hatchet over this part, tapping it on the board. Now turn the fixture over and knock on the board with the handle. At the same time, the part will continue to fit. These steps should be repeated many times. As a result, it will turn out to drive the ax into the eyelet well.
• Then set the part upright. Install a wedge in the cut. Hammer him in with a mallet. Saw off excess protruding parts

How to protect against decay?

The wood from which the ax is made, like other similar materials, is subject to decay. Such problems always arise over time or in improper storage conditions of the tool. It is important to take care of a homemade ax in advance, protecting it from decay. It is strongly discouraged to use compounds such as varnishes or paints to protect wooden handles. The ban on the use of such compositions is due to the fact that their presence on the handle can lead to it slipping out of the hands during certain work. The reason for this is the glossy smooth texture.

Other suitable impregnations will be the best solution for protecting the ax from decay. You can cover the handle with linseed oil or good old drying oil. There are other highly effective antiseptic agents available that will extend the life of natural wood. But we must take into account that they will need to be applied periodically. Don't forget about this procedure.

Some masters add red pigment to antiseptic protective agents. They don't turn to this trick to make the instrument look more interesting. After this coating, the ax will be much easier to find in the grass, because its color will become more vivid.

Please note that the handle should be made so that its section has a characteristic oval shape. Only by observing this condition, it will be possible to hold it successfully, without straining the hand too much. In this case, blows with an ax will be more accurate and light. It is recommended to make wood blanks for creating a hatchet in late autumn. It is during this period that the movement of sap is reduced to a minimum (practically stops), which means that the tree becomes, as it were, dehydrated.

Many inexperienced craftsmen neglect to dry wood for the construction of an ax. As a result, it ends with the handle changing in size, and the metal part with the butt on it holds very poorly. It is permissible to refer to undried material only in special situations when the handle needs to be built urgently, and this spare part is done as a temporary one.

When making a new hatchet yourself, you need to draw up a detailed drawing / template of the future tool. If you have a very handy old ax in your arsenal, then you can remove all parameters from it. It will be much easier and more convenient. Take your time to turn the cutting edge of the tool. First you need to make sure that the metal is sufficiently hard. If it turns out to be too soft, then it will need to be additionally hardened under the influence of high temperatures.

It is permissible to start sharpening the ax blade only after installing it on the ax.

It is very important to use a ready-made ax (both homemade and purchased in a store) correctly. Experienced craftsmen strongly do not recommend trying to cut various metal parts with such a device. Even if you plan to chop wood, it is best to make sure there are no hard particles inside that could harm the tool.

It is strongly discouraged to throw the finished tool on hard surfaces, especially from a great height. It is not recommended to leave the ax outdoors. Precipitation or aggressive sunlight can negatively affect the quality of the wooden part. Keep such a tool in a dark and dry place. Only under this condition will the ax serve you for many years.

The ax is rightfully considered the "king" of the carpentry tool. A true carpenter, professional in his craft, knows how to make an ax that is perfect for a given operation. The master, as a rule, has several axes, always ready to go. However, this tool is needed not only by carpenters, but also by ordinary people living outside the city in private houses, as well as by townspeople who go to summer cottages or on weekends. Each owner has to chop wood to heat the stove in the house or in the bathhouse. In order for this process to proceed faster and not to cause trouble in the form of a flying ax, a dull blade or a broken hatchet, it is necessary to be able to properly prepare this tool for work and maintain it in "combat readiness" throughout the entire service life. The shape of the hatchet can be different. It is important to correctly fit the ax, wedge it, and then sharpen the blade at the desired angle.

When buying an ax, or rather its piercing part, you should pay attention to the quality of the metal taken for the manufacture of the tool. Look for the GOST sign on the ax, which confirms the metal's compliance with state standards and requirements. Be on your guard if instead of this sign there is TU, OST or MRTU. In this case, the manufacturer can make changes to the technology. Soviet-era axes of high quality metal can be purchased at the flea market.

The quality of the metal can be checked empirically, taking two axes and hitting the blade of one of them on the blade of the other. On a lower quality product, jags will remain after impacts. Also, the quality of the metal is checked by the characteristic sound that is emitted when the ax is tapped. In this case, the tool must be suspended.

You should also focus on the following points:

• there should be no bends or dents on a well drawn blade;
• cone shape of the eyelet;
• alignment of the eyelet and ax blade;
• small thickness of the butt and the perpendicularity of its ends to the blade.

Do not be upset if you cannot find an ax that meets all of the above requirements. After all, the identified deviations can be eliminated by sharpening the burrs, boring the eyelet and giving the butt a symmetrical shape.

There will also be useful material on how to make a device for carrying firewood:

The choice of blank and the manufacture of a hatchet

The length of the ax is chosen based on the height and strength of the master. The quality of the wood plays an important role in this. Lightweight axes, weighing about 800-1000 g, have handles ranging in length from 40 to 60 cm.In a heavy tool (1000-1400 g), the length of the ax varies from 55 to 65 cm.

The force of the blow depends on the length of the ax. The longer the handle of the ax, the easier it is to chop wood. A person's strength and height also matters

Not every type of wood is suitable for making an ax handle. For this purpose, a true master goes through the entire forest before finding a suitable tree. Most often, the blank for the ax is made from the root part of a birch, or better from the growths on its trunk, which are distinguished by a special twisted and very dense wood. Maple, oak, acacia, ash and other hardwoods can be used in place of birch. The workpieces must be well dried in natural conditions, which will take a lot of time.

On the prepared workpiece, the contours of the future hatchet are outlined according to the selected template. A bulge should be provided at the end of the ax handle, designed to "brake" the hand in the event of the tool slipping out. Then the excess wood outside the contour is removed with a knife, ax with a perfectly sharpened blade, chisel or jigsaw, which is much faster. After fitting the ax to the ax with a mallet, and making sure that these parts fit snugly, you can continue further finishing the tool handle. Glass is used for scraping, and fine-grained sandpaper is used for grinding.

Above is a drawing of a hatchet (a) that meets the requirements of GOST 1400-73, and below is a handle of a camping ax (b) with an undisturbed fiber zone of 40 mm

Important! If the handle easily fits into the eyelet, this means that the master made a mistake in the calculations and drew the template incorrectly. In this case, even a driven wedge will not correct the situation, providing a short, tight fit of the ax on the hatchet.

How to fit an ax onto a handle?

Below is an algorithm for carrying out operations, showing how to fit an ax onto a machined and polished hatchet. This is one of the possible ways:

• Fit the top of the ax to the eye of the ax. At the same time, cut off excess wood with a knife. You should not use a file, as it "sweeps" the tree.
• On a hatchet, placed horizontally on the table, place the ax on top, and with a pencil mark on the handle a mark to which it will fit. Divide the segment in half and add a second mark.
• Clamp the ax upright in a vise with the wide end up. Take a hacksaw for metal and make a cut to the second mark for the wedge.
• Buy a metal wedge from a store or plane a wooden counterpart, the thickness of which should be between 5 and 10 mm. The length of a wedge made for an ax with your own hands should be equal to the depth of the cut, and the width should be equal to the size of the eye of the ax.
• Place a board on the table and place the ax upside down on it. Put the ax on the ax and start tapping it on the board. Then turn over and knock on the board with the handle of the ax, while the process of insertion continues. Turning over and tapping must be done several times. As a result, the ax will go into the eyelet.
• Next, place the hatchet vertically and insert a planed wedge into the cut, hammer it with a mallet to half or almost to the end. With a hacksaw for metal, cut off everything that remains sticking out from above.
• Apply oil (motor oil, linseed oil, sunflower oil, etc.) to the ax, let the excess drain off and leave to dry. Wipe down the ax and handle with a rag.

After fitting the ax to the hatchet, shown in figure (a), its attachment (b) and wedging of the handle (c) are performed: 1- ax, 2 - hatchet, 3 - wedge

How and at what angle is the ax blade sharpened?

In order for the tool not to be a hassle, it is necessary to properly sharpen the ax blade. According to the requirements of GOST, the angle of sharpening of a construction ax should be 20-30 °. Carpentry tools are sharpened at a slightly higher angle of 35 °. The recommended angles must be observed as thinner blades will bind in the wood. Extra efforts will have to be made to pull them out. On knots, the thin blade can easily bend. The blade, sharpened at an angle of 35 °, breaks the chips separated from the main log, does not get stuck in the wood.

First, a "rough" primary sharpening of the ax is carried out, during which it is possible to remove all the cracks, minor damages and large potholes with a rotating grinding wheel. At the same time, a new clear cutting edge of the ax is being formed. Then the roughly sharpened blade is subjected to "fine" sharpening. Grinding is carried out along the entire length of the blade on both sides with a fine-grained bar that removes all burrs.

Three ways to sharpen an ax blade: a) a grinding wheel; b) a bar, moistened with water; c) dressing with a touchstone moistened with machine oil

Important! The shine of the ax blade and the absence of burrs on the cutting edge indicates that the sharpening process was successful.

How to store an ax correctly?

After work, it is recommended to put on a cover made of thick leather, birch bark or other material on the ax blade. You cannot leave an ax stuck into a log. A true master takes care of his instrument, because the ax is a "continuation" of his hands.

Having tried to chop wood with a homemade ax at least once, you will not be able to work with a store tool. If you doubt your abilities, then use the services of craftsmen who know how to make a convenient hatchet for an ax from a selected and dried blank.

Each country house has a number of necessary tools for different jobs. An ax is required to build a house, chop wood or butcher meat. You can purchase it from the store or make your own. The purchased tool may be inconvenient or unreliable, and this is unsafe. A hand-made tool is particularly convenient and reliable. Before making an ax with your own hands at home, you need to know what the ax looks like, what parts it consists of, and decide on its purpose.

Types of axes

The tool is usually classified by the type of handle.

In addition to basic axes, there are tools designed for special jobs. This includes a cleaver, a carpenter's, a large carpenter's, a sculptural ax, as well as a figured tool and an ax for concave surfaces.

Self-production of an ax

Components of an ax: a hatchet, a metal blade and wedges. How easy and comfortable it will be to work with the tool depends on the length and shape of its handle, called a hatchet. Let's see how to make it the right size and size. To do this, you need to select the material and cut the workpiece according to the template.

The homemade product is impregnated with a protective agent, this will help protect the ax from decay. The impregnation is done in several layers of drying oil or linseed oil. Each subsequent layer must be completely saturated. It is not recommended to cover products with varnishes and paints. They will give the handle a sliding effect, and the ax will constantly slide out during operation. Sometimes a bright dye is added to the impregnation. The handle of the tool takes on a bright color, which is good when work is carried out in overgrown areas. The ax will always be visible and will not be lost.

Choosing a metal tip

It is impossible to forge metal tightly with your own hands, so they buy it at a hardware store. Tips for choosing a piercing part:

1. A quality blade should be solid, without chipping, chipping or dents.
2. The metal is marked in accordance with GOST.
3. The butt ends should be perpendicular to the blade.
4. The eyelet must be tapered.

Ax attachment on a hatchet

The process is carried out in several stages, such as fitting, fitting and wedging.

It is possible to eliminate cracks that will arise when the metal sheet is installed using epoxy resin. It is poured into the cuts before driving the wedges. The resin will dry in a day. And only then you can saw off the protruding part.

Sharpening and hardening the blade

The performance of the tool depends on the sharp blade. Therefore, you need to know how to sharpen the ax correctly. For each type of work, a different cutting angle of the blade is selected.

Sharpening is done on an electric grinding wheel, smoothly moving the blade along the circle at an angle of 45 degrees. To ensure that the quality of the cutting edge does not deteriorate, do not overheat the blade. To do this, a container with water is installed near the grinder. A blade is periodically lowered into it for cooling. At the end of the work, the blade is polished. To do this, use a sharpening block or sandpaper.

A metal sheet made of soft material will often have to be sharpened. To avoid this, you can do the hardening of the ax. This requires a gas burner, oil and water. The blade is heated on gas until a red color appears. Then it is dipped in oil and cold water. All repeat 3 times.

DIY ax

If you live in a private house or often relax in nature, the ax is sure to be one of the basic tools that you should always have on hand. While at home, it can be used for chopping wood or chopping up large bones. And in nature, an ax is an indispensable tool at all, because it will help you chop wood for a fire, and put together a simple shelter from the weather, and even come in handy in cutting game.

Unfortunately, not all tools on the market are of high quality. To get a truly high-quality and comfortable ax, it is better to make it yourself. So you can be sure that the handle will be comfortable, and the blade will remain sharp for a long time and will not let you down at the most crucial moment. In this article, we will consider not only the features of self-made axes, but also describe the main varieties of this tool so that you can choose the model that is most suitable for your purposes.

Types of axes and their characteristics

At first glance, it seems that there are no special differences between the axes, although in fact they differ depending on the area of ​​use (Figure 1).

The main types are distinguished:

1. Cleaver: used mainly for chopping firewood. It is this type of ax that is most often made independently, because special skills are not required for this. A distinctive feature of the cleaver is its heavy weight and tapered blade shape. Due to its weight, the tool is excellent for chopping large logs or hard wood.
2. Joiner: Usually such a tool is light and small, since its sharpened blade is used for precise and accurate work with wood.
3. Taiga: such an ax is great for hunting and survival in the wild as a whole, because with it you can chop wood for a fire, and clear the territory, and build a shelter, and even partially butcher the caught game.
4. Tsalda: This model is also called a tourist ax, because its shape and sharpness of the blade is perfect for clearing the area from dense bushes.
5. Kitchen: Features a sharp and durable double blade, but is used exclusively for chopping up thick bones or frozen meat.

Figure 1. The main types of axes: 1 - cleaver, 2 - carpentry, 3 - taiga, 4 - tourist, 5 - kitchen

In addition, a lumberjack ax or poleaxe is distinguished as a separate one. It has a long handle and a wide, sharp blade. However, this type has a limited scope, since it can be used exclusively for felling trees.

We have considered the main types of axes only briefly, but if this information is not enough, we will give a more detailed description of the main types so that it is easier for you to decide on the model of the tool for self-production.

Combat

A battle ax is more likely not a carpenter's or a tourist's tool, but a very dangerous weapon that was used in ancient times in Russia and by the Scandinavian Vikings (Figure 2).

Figure 2. Reproduction of battle axes

At the moment, this weapon has lost its relevance, but for lovers of historical antiquity, there may be interesting information about making a Viking ax, close to the original, with their own hands.

First of all, the interesting shape of such an ax should be highlighted. Its blade tapers slightly towards the center and widens towards the edge. This was done so that the ax would serve as both a reliable weapon in battle and a good helper in everyday life.

By the way, the ancient Vikings built their famous Drakar boats with just such hatchets, and then plundered neighboring settlements, using the same axes as weapons.

Another distinctive feature of this type is the long handle, which made it possible to comfortably hold the weapon in hand and make large-scale swings during the battle.

Wood

A wooden ax is of no value either as a household tool or as a weapon, because its main difference is that not only the handle, but also the blade is made of wood. Moreover, no matter how strong the wood is, the finished tool will not be able to cope with either chopping wood or chopping other hard materials (Figure 3).

Figure 3. Wooden products perform exclusively decorative functions

In fact, this is a kind of costume element of a certain historical era, which may be needed during a masquerade or other similar event. However, if you are interested in how to make an almost real ax out of wood with your own hands, then we can clarify that the handle will have to be cut in the same way as for a regular tool, but the blade will have to be hewn out of solid wood using a ready-made template. The assembled structure can be decorated with a pattern by burning or painting.

Hunting

The hunting ax is included in the list of basic tools that must be included in the equipment of any hunter. Without this tool, it will be almost impossible to start a fire or build a simple shelter from the weather (Figure 4).

Contrary to popular belief, a hunting ax has nothing to do with a massive felling tool, although it is often used for the same purposes.

The main requirements that a hunter's ax must meet are as follows:

1. Compact size that will allow you to carry the instrument with you over long distances without much discomfort.
2. Ergonomic design that allows you to handle the instruments for a long time without excessive fatigue.
3. The power and sharpness of the blade are also not the least important parameters. The sharpness of the ax will determine how quickly you can chop branches to light the fire.

Figure 4. Models for hunters

It is believed that a high-quality hunter's ax should weigh no more than 750 grams with a total length of 30-40 cm.However, many outdoor enthusiasts, given the disadvantages of such small hatchets, still prefer to take more massive axes with them to fishing, which will help not just chop thin branches, but also chop large and hard logs.

Taiga

Of all the types of axes, the taiga one is considered the most versatile and irreplaceable during a hike or hunting. It has a relatively low weight, and the piercing surface has a small area, which allows you to drive the cutting edge as deep as possible even into the hardest wood (Figure 5).

Figure 5. Taiga model of the tool

If you plan to start making a taiga ax for personal use with your own hands, you should take into account that it is characterized by a special sharpening of the blade. Its trailing edge is much smaller and thinner than the leading edge, which provides high piercing characteristics of the tool.

How to make an ax step by step

Experienced hunters prefer to make axes with their own hands, because in this case, you can create an absolutely unique tool adapted to your personal preferences and functions that the tool will perform in the future.

Since the taiga ax is considered the highest quality and most versatile, we will provide detailed instructions and tips for making this particular model.

We select materials

The first step in making a tool will be the selection of suitable materials, not only for the blade, but also for the handle. In this case, it should be borne in mind that the convenience of further use will directly depend on the shape and length of the handle, therefore it is better to make the handle oval and slightly curved.

Some lovers of folk crafts are interested in whether it is possible to make a whole stone ax and how to do it correctly. Of course, it is realistic to hew out such an imitation from a stone, especially when it comes exclusively to a blade, but using such a tool in everyday life, and even more so when hunting, will be very problematic.

Theoretically, you can make an entirely metal cast ax, and put on a rubber pad on the handle, which will prevent your hand from sliding while using the tool. Still, it is better to make a wooden handle and a metal blade.

It is better to use oak, maple, birch or ash wood as the material for the handle, since these species tolerate vibration well when hitting a hard surface. It is advisable to harvest the wood in the fall and dry it in a dark place throughout the year. If you use raw wood, it will dry out over time and will not hold firmly in the eyelet.

It is impossible to make a high-quality ax blade at home, so you will have to buy it at the market or in a building materials store. When choosing a workpiece, pay attention to the presence of the GOST marking, which indicates that you are buying truly high-quality steel, and not a homemade blade remelted from old rails. It is also necessary to inspect the hole for the handle: it must be cone-shaped. Only in this case the blade will be securely held on the handle. In addition, carefully examine the blade itself: it should be perfectly flat, sharp and free of any defects or nicks.

Cooking a template

A cardboard template is needed first of all for making a handle. On cardboard, you need to draw a future handle of the required shape and size, and then transfer this drawing to a tree and cut out using carpentry tools. Thanks to this algorithm of actions, you will be able to create a handle with optimal ergonomics (Figure 6).

Figure 6. Required templates for DIY tool making

If you are interested in how to make a high-quality taiga ax from an old double-sided ax, then you should immediately clarify that you will need a template in this case as well. The fact is that the taiga ax differs from the usual carpentry ax precisely in the shape of the blade. In order not to risk it and not to give it a shape "by eye", it is better to immediately use the template. Then the workpiece will have the optimal shape and size.

Blank production

If you bought a ready-made ax head from a store or market, all you have to do is attach it to the handle. But, if you prefer to make a blank according to drawings from scratch at home, for example, from an old ax, you will need some advice on technology and design.

To do this, you need to do the following:

1. Take an old head from an ax, and it is advisable to choose a product with a weight of no more than 1400-1600 grams.
2. The front ledge of the blade must be cut flush with the butt. It is in order to make an accurate cut that you need a template. Despite the fact that a deviation of 5-8 degrees is considered acceptable, in real taiga axes the edge of the blade is exactly flush with the butt.
3. The back of the blade needs to be slightly rounded by cutting off some of the metal so that the entire touching surface of the blade does not have corners. For this purpose, you can use an ordinary grinder, but a more accurate cut will turn out on an emery wheel with a medium grain.
4. In the inner part of the blade, you need to cut a small semicircle, which will help to more comfortably hold the ax when carrying out more accurate work. In addition, this semicircle will help to reliably hang the ax from the branch, and the head itself will weigh about 200 grams less without losing the basic mechanical properties of the ax.

Figure 7. Procedure for making a blade

At the final stage, you can cut off the upper parts of the butt to make it more rounded. This will help increase the maneuverability of the tool, but if it suits you in its original form, this procedure can be omitted (Figure 7).

Carving out a hatchet

An equally important role in the manufacture of a high-quality ax is played by the manufacture of its handle. To use the tool conveniently, the handle should have an ergonomic shape, but at the same time be as simple as possible (Figure 8).

You can make it as follows:

1. Prepared dried wood is cut parallel to the grain. In the process, it is necessary to ensure that the finished handle is slightly longer than the original template.
2. The upper part of the handle, which will be inserted into the eyelet, needs to be made slightly wider than the main one.
3. To cut the hatchet more accurately, it is better to make small transverse cuts on the workpiece, not reaching the edge of the handle by 4-5 cm. This will help to quickly and easily remove the remnants of the wood.

Figure 8. Stages of manufacturing the handle

All manual transitions and corners are done with a chisel, and when the handle is fully made, it is brought to smoothness with sandpaper so that it is beautiful.

Water-repellent treatment

Since the taiga ax assumes constant use in the open air, it is advisable to treat it with special water-repellent compounds. This will help keep the implement from constant exposure to moisture and will minimize further grip restoration.

Any wood preservative can be used to treat the handle of a carpentry tool. All of them protect the material from rot and deterioration under constant exposure to high humidity.

Handle attachment

When the head and handle are ready, you can proceed to the direct assembly of the ax parts. To do this, the upper part of the handle is cut up and down and cut into five small pieces of hardwood.

We take a piece of gauze, soak it in resin and unwind the upper part of the handle with it so that it fits better into the hole on the piercing nozzle. Then, using a hammer, drive the handle into the head of the ax, and fix the prepared pieces of wood in the upper part of the ax (Figure 9).

Figure 9. Stages of assembly of the finished product

Sharpening the blade

To give the tool the necessary sharpness, you need to sharpen the ax correctly (Figure 10). The sharpening angle directly depends on what kind of work you plan to do with the ax.

Figure 10. Blade sharpening mechanism

For example, in order for the blows with the blade of a taiga ax to be accurate, sharpening is carried out at an angle of 30-35 degrees. for comparison, a lumberjack's ax, designed for working with raw wood, is sharpened at an angle of 25 degrees. As a rule, a special grinding wheel is used for this procedure. Since this tool requires care, it is best to make the handle long enough for you to comfortably hold the tool at a sufficiently large distance and at an angle of 40-45 degrees to the grinding wheel itself. In this case, the rotation speed of the grinding wheel should be low so that the metal does not overheat, and the blade is sharpened as efficiently as possible.

We make a cover for storage and transportation

To make the ax convenient to carry, a special cover is made for it made of thick leather or tarpaulin (Figure 11). To do this, it is enough to create a pattern for the future cover and firmly sew the parts together. However, if you are going to wield a large ax in the forest, it is impractical to make a special case for it, and you will have to carry the tool either without additional protection, or sew those separately for the blade.

Figure 11. Options for shipping covers

Many hunters and outdoor enthusiasts prefer the latter option, since it makes it easier to carry the tool, which is extremely important if you have been making axes yourself and the finished product is large enough.

Professionals recommend that you be especially careful when choosing materials for making a homemade ax. For example, wood for making a handle is best harvested in the fall, and then dried in a dark place throughout the year. But the future handle will become even more durable if it dries for five years. Of course, if you do not have that much time, you may well wait a year, but then the treatment of the finished handle with water-repellent compounds will become mandatory.

It is better to buy a blade in hardware stores or on the market, and priority should be given to products with the GOST marking. This will ensure that the steel has been hardened properly and will not crumble or lose sharpness when cutting trees. In addition, when making an ax, you need to decide in advance for what purposes you will use it. The angle of sharpening of the blade will depend on this, because axes for felling wood, carpentry or hunting differ precisely in this parameter.

You can see how making an ax with your own hands looks like in practice in the video.