Diagram with dimensions of the partition frame with jumpers
Dimensional drawing of a partition with lintels

Its stages are as follows:

How to make jumpers from a profile

There are several ways to make such elements on your own, you just need to carefully study the technology of the process.

The video tells how to properly make a drywall jumper.

The procedure for attaching the jumpers

On the wall

When all the profiles are installed on the wall, take into account that when joining two sheets of drywall, it is necessary that the edges are fixed to the metal. In the case of two-layer partitions and you can use:

1. A common jumper with "petals". It is installed instead of the future connection of the face layer on top of, fixed with screws and covered first.
   The scheme of attaching the jumper to the frame

   
   
   

2. If the partition or wall is sheathed in one layer and there is still cotton wool that tends to squeeze out the sheet, then it is better to use another method, more reliable, when the jumper is placed from the inside of the rack, that is, it has an emphasis, you cannot squeeze out the gypsum board.
3. Another method, which is suitable for single-layer wall and ceiling cladding: the CD profile is inserted into two short guides. In this case, everything is on the same plane, nothing protrudes. This method is more suitable for the ceiling, because there is an overlap of metal and a screw on top. At this point, at the junction, the rail will swing. Can be used instead of guides, but in this case, you get a weak connection.
   Installation of the box structure on the ceiling

   
   
   

On the ceiling

It is advisable to use a method with jumpers that do not protrude beyond the plane of the profile and there will be no difference in this place. Jumpers with "petals" will not fit, they do not reach each other.

A variant of the design of the ceiling frame with lintels

In this article, we have to figure out from which profile to make a plasterboard partition and how to assemble it correctly. In addition, we will familiarize ourselves with the technology of plastering plasterboard walls. Let's get started.

Installation of a plasterboard partition frame.

What is offered by the market

First, let's find out what, in fact, we have to choose from. On sale we can find the following profiles:

• Ceiling (60x27 mm);
• Ceiling guide (28x27);
• Rack (side walls 50 mm high, bottom - from 50 to 100 mm wide, depending on the requirements for the rigidity of the structure);
• Guide (40x50-100 mm);
• Flexible arched;

Arch frame made of flexible profile.

By elimination method

The last two can be discarded at once: the first of them is intended for the assembly of curved frames, the second is for strengthening the plaster corners.

Reinforcement of the outer corner with a perforated corner profile.

Ceiling and ceiling guides are quite predictably used for the assembly of suspended ceiling battens. With the same success, however, they can be used for leveling solid walls with significant irregularities; in this case, the ceiling profile is attached to it by means of straight hangers.

Lathing for leveling the wall from the ceiling profile.

Are these profiles suitable for partitions?

No. They are sorely lacking in rigidity: a wall assembled on a frame made of a CD ceiling or UD ceiling guide deforms even with a slight lateral load.

What's in the bottom line?

That's right, there are only two varieties:

Rack profile. Curved edges provide maximum rigidity with minimum weight.

Guide profile 50 mm wide.

The first, as the name implies, is used in the role of vertical frame struts, the second provides fastening of the struts to the capital structures of the building - adjacent walls, ceiling and floor.

Thickness and stiffness

We found out what profiles are needed to assemble the frame. But they have different thicknesses. Hence the next question: what width of the bottom wall should it have?

There are three factors at play here:

• The stiffness requirements already mentioned by me. In rooms with high traffic (public buildings, hallways, kitchens), it is better to use a profile with a width of 75 or even 100 mm, and when building walls that do not experience serious loads during operation, 50 mm is quite enough;

When strength is needed: frame thickness - 100 mm.

• The need to place communications in the partition - water supply, ventilation ducts and sewerage. For a sewer pipe with a nominal section of 50 mm, a frame with a thickness of at least 75 mm is required;

Plumbing and sewerage are divorced inside the partition frame.

• Finally, sound insulation requirements are no less important.

The children's room has special requirements for sound insulation.

Loopholes

What if, for some reason (for example, due to the peculiarities of the layout or lack of usable space), you do not want to use a drywall profile for a partition more than 50 mm wide?

For obvious reasons, nothing can be done about sound insulation: a thin wall will always conduct sound better than a thick one. Communications of a significant section also will not fit into a narrow frame, but the stiffness and strength of the wall can be increased without a serious increase in its thickness.

• The rack profile 50x50 can be reinforced with wooden inserts. A bar of the same section is embedded in the racks and multiplies their ability to withstand horizontal loading;

The racks are reinforced with bars embedded in them.

• The same effect can be achieved by folding the plasterboard rack profile for partitions in pairs. You can nest the racks into each other or simply install them side by side, sewn with self-tapping screws for metal or leave a gap between them. The rigidity of the structure will increase in all cases;

The opening is reinforced with an additional stand.

• You can make the frame more rigid by reducing the step between the posts. Normally, it is 60 centimeters, but it can be reduced to 40 or even 30 cm. The main thing is that the width of the drywall sheet remains a multiple of this step, and that the seam between the sheets falls exactly in the middle of the rack;
• Finally, the strength of the wall will increase when it is clad with gypsum board in two layers on each side.

Two-layer sheathing is always performed with overlapping seams between the sheets.

Wall project

Calculation

We found out which profile is needed for a drywall partition, but we still do not know how much to buy.

The instruction for calculating the number of a profile is extremely simple:

• The total length of the guide profile must be equal to the perimeter of the partition without cutting margin. The guides can be connected in length without any restrictions;
• The height of the racks must be at least the height of the room (it can be equal to 3 or 4 meters);

In theory, the length of the racks can be up to 6 meters. In practice, I have never seen a PS profile longer than 4.

• The number of racks is calculated based on the length of the partition and the step between them, rounded up to a whole value. For a wall 4 meters long, for example, it is equal to 400 / 60-1 = 6.

The standard pitch between the frame posts is 0.6 meters.

The task becomes somewhat more complicated if the wall is supposed to have a doorway, shelves or skylights. Any opening is tied with a rack-mount profile vertically and rack-mount or horizontal guides.

Stage 1: markup

What and how to mark up before starting the construction of the frame?

We need to draw a line for the axis of the frame on the floor, ceiling and adjacent walls, and then mark the position of the posts. This will require:

• One of the profiles prepared for the assembly of the frame for the role of a ruler;
• Plumb line;

In the photo - a construction plumb line.

I am doing the markup in the following order:

• I draw a line on the floor;
• Using a plumb line, I transfer it to the ceiling;
• I close the outline with lines on the walls connecting the markings above and below;
• I mark the position of the racks on the floor;
• I transfer them with a plumb line to the ceiling.

With the help of a plumb line, the position of the posts is transferred to the ceiling.

The markings for the position of the posts must be made so that they remain visible after the frame has been sheathed. The marks will help you find the racks when attaching the gypsum board.

Stage 2: assembling the frame

How to build a partition frame with your own hands?

Easy peasy:

• Fix the guides to the floor, ceiling and walls with dowel screws with a step of about half a meter;

In a wooden house, you can use ordinary self-tapping screws with a length of 45 mm or more to fasten the guides.

• Cut to length and set all the racks according to the marks;

You need to cut the profile with metal scissors. Abrasive cutting with a grinder is undesirable: at the same time, zinc burns out in the cutting area, leaving the steel defenseless against rust.

• Screw each post to the rail on both sides with 9mm metal self-tapping screws.

You will need a screwdriver to assemble the frame. It is almost impossible to screw a self-tapping screw into a steel profile with a screwdriver.

When installed in a partition of a door or window unit, its installation is carried out at the stage of assembling the frame. The block is placed close to the vertical post and is attached to it with self-tapping screws screwed from the side of the profile. Additional fixation can be provided with a strip of foam or sealant.

Then, on the opposite side, the second post is attached in the same way, after which the posts are connected to each other by a horizontal jumper. Do not forget to wedge the door leaf in the box with chips or pieces of plywood.

Tying the door block with a profile.

A special case

If you need to ensure the maximum quality of sound insulation, the frame is assembled differently:

• The guides are mounted in two rows with a minimum gap between them;
• The posts in two rows are installed so that they do not come into contact with each other anywhere.

Why is such a complex and relatively expensive scheme needed? The fact is that two independent frames make it possible to perform acoustic decoupling of the sides of the partition, completely excluding the transmission of acoustic vibrations from one side to the other.

Noise isolation is complemented by a couple more measures:

• A porous damper tape is laid under the guide profile;
• The partition is filled with sound-absorbing material (as a rule, glued mineral wool slabs 600 mm wide).

Noise-insulating partition device: 1, 5-GKL, 2 - guides; 3- racks; 4 - self-tapping screws for drywall, 6 - dowel screws, 7 - floor, 8 - mineral wool.

Stage 3: covering and filling

GKL is attached to all profiles (both rack-mount and guides) in increments of no more than 20 centimeters. Fasteners - phosphated self-tapping screws for gypsum board, tool - screwdriver.

For damp rooms (bath, toilet, combined bathroom), use moisture resistant drywall. It is easily recognizable by the green face of the sheet.

The hat is heated approximately 1 mm below the surface of the sheet, while the attachment points should not be closer than 2 cm from the edge. The price of not observing this simple rule is the crumbled edges of the sheet.

The filling is done in two steps:

• First, the seam is filled through the cells of a serpentine glued along it - a reinforcing material based on fiberglass;
• Then the reinforcement is covered with a second pass using a wide spatula.

Partition after filling seams and fasteners.

For painting and wallpapering, the wall is sequentially sanded (with a hand float or sander) and primed with a penetrating primer.

Conclusion

From the article you learned that the installation of partitions from gypsum plasterboard does not present any difficulties even for a beginner. The video in this article will help you find out more. I look forward to your additions and comments. Good luck, comrades!

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Choosing the right profile for drywall partitions

Today we will try to give you the most practical advice so that the profile for the plasterboard partition that you build with your own hands is reliable and durable, and the structure can serve for a long time.

Which profile should I use?

In order to determine which profiles are needed for erecting a partition with your own hands, first of all, you need to navigate in their types, only then you can choose the right one. As practice shows, it all comes down to one thing, that the GKL partition is built using two types of profile - a guide and a rack. However, there are partition structures that include non-standard elements (rounded protrusions, niches, doorways or columns).

In order to fully control the situation during the construction of any structure and be able to independently assemble any plasterboard partition with your own hands, it is worth learning in more detail about the types of profiles.

Guide profile

It is marked ud. The main purpose of this type is to create a plane for the future surface. The guide profile is installed strictly along the perimeter of the future structure and serves as the basis for the formation of the frame.

Standard dimensions of the guide profile:

• Length - 3000 mm;
• Width - 25 mm.

The thickness of the metal from which the guide profile is made is the main criterion for the reliability of the future frame.

The thicker the steel, the more possibilities the profile has.

A guide profile marked uw is used to define the direction of the future plane. Variety sizes are standard for the guide profile.

Carrying profile

View marking - cd. It is used for the final formation of the partition frame and imposes on itself the main load: when sheathing the frame with material, it is on it that the gypsum board is attached.

Standard dimensions of the bearing profile:

• Length - 3000 or 4000 mm;
• Width - 60 mm;
• Thickness - 25 mm.

The thinner the metal of the bearing profile, the more it will be needed for the frame of the future partition.

Arched profile

When erecting structures with rounded elements, it is difficult for a novice home craftsman to do without it. It is the arched profile that contributes to the design of curly bends. Due to the many cuts, this type of profile is somewhat weaker than other varieties.

Standard dimensions of the arched profile:

• Length - 3000 mm;
• Width - 60 mm.

Having experience in assembling drywall structures, you can make an arched profile with your own hands.

Rack profile

Marked as cw, it is used to strengthen and strengthen the frame of the structure being erected. Fastened with a pitch of 400 mm.

Unlike profiles designed for cladding ceilings, walls and other planes, profiles for creating partitions with your own hands are slightly larger and, accordingly, have a different purpose. They are produced in a different range of overall dimensions, which were indicated above, and their choice is determined by the requirements for the future design (protection from extraneous noise, thermal insulation, the possibility of laying communications, etc.).

As a rule, for the assembly of most of the simplest gypsum plasterboard structures (partitions, walls and ceiling), two types of profile are sufficient - cd and ud. But, as practice shows, an arched profile is also needed.

How to choose

Here the task is a little more difficult, since there are a lot of different profiles and markings on the market now. Choosing quality becomes even more difficult. We will try to help you identify a solid and reliable profile, from a good manufacturer and made of appropriate materials.

To build a plasterboard partition with your own hands, it is important to choose the right bearing elements of the future structure.

Profile coverage

So, we will start with the profile coating, which is made from zinc. It directly affects all profile indicators. In a quality product, the zinc content is above 99%, but now you can often find a profile with a zinc content not even more than 30%. This means that such material is not suitable for construction, as it is poorly protected. In addition to the fact that the profile easily succumbs to corrosion and rust, it can still collapse after a while, and the entire structure based on it will simply collapse. It is even more dangerous to use such a profile in damp rooms. We recommend refraining from buying it altogether.

See also: Installation of plasterboard partitions on your own

Further, about the next trick of manufacturers and sellers, which it is advisable to bypass - a painted profile. There is no need to buy such a profile, no matter how you are assured that the paint is applied to the base of the material for additional protection. In most cases, this is done only in order to hide the factory defect. Believe me, this profile painting does not mean anything anymore, especially since most of the paint peels off easily during installation.

Material thickness

Pay attention to the profile thickness, which should be at least 0.5 mm. This thickness will provide good strength, but only for a simple design. If a more complex framework is needed, it is worth considering this indicator.

Metal profile perforation

Perforated knurling is another step towards lowering quality. It is by this method that many manufacturers try to hide the real thickness of the profile and save well on material. When we acquire such a profile, we don’t even think about it, and we do not buy what we need at all.

See also: Design options for drywall partitions

Criterias of choice

There are so many shortcomings around that it is very alarming, and therefore the question arises: so how to determine a high-quality profile for a drywall partition?

Squeeze the profile with your hand, firmly and without regret. Nothing will happen to a good profile from this pressure. A low-quality profile will immediately be felt in the hand as its flimsy. By the way, the stiffer the profile when compressed by hand, the better it is, and the longer the drywall construction based on it will last.

Strength and, accordingly, durability are provided by the profile and ribs. If they are quite pronounced and are located along the entire length of the product, then such a profile is highly durable and can easily bear the heavy weight of even a massive partition.

You can also find out how high-quality coverage the profile has. A good product will shine in the sun, while a less high-quality product will give off haze and heterogeneity. We advise you to refrain from purchasing such a profile.

Do-it-yourself drywall profile installation (video)

Attention, only TODAY!

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Plasterboard partition profile

• 1 Nomenclature of profile systems
  • 1.1 The main elements of the lathing
  • 1.2 Additional elements of the lathing
• 2 The introduction of iron parts for the installation of the partition
  • 2.1 Tools for profile processing
  • 2.2 Assembling the base of the plasterboard false wall

In modern design, a rather popular element is false walls sheathed with gypsum plasterboard. For the construction of the frame of such walls, i.e. vertical posts and lathing under the cladding, a special profile is used for drywall partitions.

The choice of a suitable profile is very fundamental, which is why our article is completely devoted to the technology of working with this element of drywall structures.

Nomenclature of profile systems

The main elements of the lathing

The frame and lathing for partitions with gypsum board sheathing are installed from iron panels of a special shape. The raw materials for the production of these parts are zinc-coated steel strips, which are cold rolled into a specific configuration. The thickness of the metal and the configuration of the frame panel itself depends on the type of product.

All profiles for drywall partitions are divided into main and additional. The main ones are:

Guides (PN) - are installed on the floor and on the ceiling of the room, in rare cases they are also installed on the walls. The main function of this part is to ensure a reliable connection of the partition with the load-bearing elements of the room, therefore, you should not be pushed around by choosing a high-quality guide profile. (see also the article Soundproofing drywall partitions - legends and reality)

The more popular sizes of PN include:

• 50 x 40 mm.
• 65 x 40 mm.
• 75 x 40 mm.
• 100 x 40 mm.

It is produced in panels with a length of 3000 mm, in most cases it is supplied with special fixing holes every 200 - 4000 mm.

Rack (PS) - installed in the rails at an angle of 900, forming the so-called "rack unit". Provide vertical hardness of the partition and its resistance to deformation.

More common sizes:

• 50 x 50 mm.
• 65 x 50 mm.
• 75 x 50 mm.
• 100 x 50 mm.

Both rack and guide elements can be made of metal of different thicknesses (from 0.38 to 0.45 mm). The larger the dimensions of the profile, the thicker the metal is used, and the higher the mechanical properties of the product.

Direct your attention! Usually, in the lines of metal structures from the 1st manufacturer, the rack profiles are produced 0.5-1 mm narrower than the guides corresponding to them.

This allows you to form a rack assembly without deforming the rails.

Some models from this line are produced with special technological holes created for laying communications inside the partition (pictured). This is very convenient, since the introduction of such holes reduces the risk of damage to the insulating sheath of the cables. (see also the article Installation of plasterboard partitions - a development that turned our mind around)

Additional elements of the lathing

Apart from the rack and guide parts for erecting a frame for a plasterboard partition, you cannot do without various additional parts.

These include:

• Ceiling profiles (PP). In most cases, these parts are used to form the planes of suspended ceilings, but when building interior gypsum partitions, PP is used to form the arched parts of door openings, as well as to connect vertical racks.
• Corner cost elements - are perforated corners made of narrow zinc-plated metal. They are used for finishing the joints of gypsum boards under 900 in order to protect them from damage during puttying, finishing and future operation. In most cases, they are used when arranging door openings in partitions.

Apart from profiles such as those for the production of partitions with your own hands, other iron elements may also be required. They can be made without the help of others from iron strips or frame scraps, but it is ideal to obtain these parts from the same manufacturer as the profiles themselves. This way we can be convinced that their geometry and mechanical properties match each other.

Such additional equipment includes:

• Plate suspensions. They are used for fixing parts of frames on the walls, as well as for fixing them to the ceiling. Partitions from a drywall profile occasionally require the use of suspensions, but still, in a number of various cases, this universal part can be useful.
• Connectors. They are used when you need to dock and firmly fix two panels. Although the cost of such connectors is low, many craftsmen prefer to do without them, joining the iron parts directly. But still, to increase the strength of the frame, it is better to use special components.

All these details make it possible to make the base of the partition between the rooms, while making it quite strong and reliable. Next, we will tell you how to use a partition profile for drywall.

Introduction of iron parts for the installation of the partition

Profile processing tools

One of the main advantages that virtually no matter which partition from the drywall profile has is its manufacturability and ease of installation.

To work with metal panels, we will need the following tools:

• A metal saw is the best tool for adjusting panels to the size we want. Circular saws with cut-off blades or reciprocating models are ideal for this purpose.

Direct your attention! The introduction of a grinder with a grinding disc is not necessary, since in the zone of the highest heating the element loses its anti-corrosive properties, and at the highest humidity in the room, the crate may begin to rust.

• Scissors for metal work. They are used in most cases for cuts of the profile sides when forming a rack unit, as well as when bending arched parts.
• A punch is a good candidate for a drill, since drilling a rather narrow profile metal is rather awkward. Punch holes are used to punch holes in the walls of iron parts.

• Pliers (scrapprofile) - used to connect parts of the frame without using screws and other fasteners. In terms of the mechanism of operation, this tool is identical to the punch, but when pierced, the two parts are connected according to the principle of rivets.
• Drill or hammer drill. It is used to fix parts of the frame on the walls, ceiling and floor. In rooms with concrete bases, experts advise using drills and drills with victorious tips.
• A screwdriver is a tool that will take 80: your time to work with. It is used to connect all parts of the frame to each other using special screws (3.9 x 25 mm).

In addition, we will certainly need a hand tool (hammers, screwdrivers, etc.), also a tape measure, a measuring cord and a level. (see also the article Plasterboard partition with a door: installation features)

We collect the base of the plasterboard false wall

So, we have the materials and tools ready, which means it's time to get to work.

Here is an annotation describing the main steps in the process of erecting a false wall box:

• From the PN panels of the selected width, using a metal saw, we cut off parts of a suitable length for us. With all this, do not forget that in the floor part of the frame there will be a gap in the area of ​​the doorway.

• Having laid the panels on the floor, using a punch, we make fixing holes in increments of 40-60 cm. Insert dowel sleeves into the holes, after that we fix the panels to the floor, tightening the locking screws with a screwdriver.
• We do the same operation with the ceiling.
• Rack profiles, cut in accordance with the height of the room, are inserted into the guides.
• We connect the rack units using screws (4 screws for each connection) or a scrap profile. The connection process is carefully shown in the video.
• We form the frame of the future wall from the rack parts by installing two panels on the sides of the doorway.
• In the upper part of the door, we connect the side posts with a horizontal lintel (a smaller segment of the PS).

Advice! To make the door clearance more rigid, we install mortgages from a timber bar in the vertical parts of the frame.

• Using the technological holes, we lay the wires, leaving free cable sections for connecting sockets and switches.

This completes all the work with the iron profile for the false wall. It remains for us to sheathe the constructed frame with gypsum plasterboard, putty the joints between the panels and the attachment points, the field of which is to proceed with the final finishing.

We pin our hopes that in this article you will find the answer to the questions, which profile is needed for a drywall partition, and how to assemble a reliable frame for a false wall from this profile. So if you carefully study all the tips, then you will definitely cope with the work of building a partition!

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Plasterboard partition profile

In the process of renovation work, property owners often have a question about which profile to choose for a plasterboard partition. This factor is very important and requires attention. Indeed, the strength and durability of the entire structure directly depends on what the frame will be.

Renovation of an apartment is always associated with the loss of money, time and nerves. Some people start it and cannot stop for several years. They are busy little by little, they finish one part, start another - and so they can continue indefinitely. Saving money on repairs Now we will not talk about reducing the repair time, but about saving. Think carefully about what you want to receive after the completion of the renovation. This is to ensure that in the process not to abandon everything halfway, wasting money and time. Have you figured it out? That is great. Now measure the room and make a list of everything you need to buy. All materials must be bought at once before starting the repair. Find out in advance where and in which hardware stores discounts, promotions, etc. are held. Before purchasing materials, ask your friends, as it were between times, if any of them has a discount card of the stores you need.

As you know, the bedroom is the most isolated room, which is a room for rest, sleep and privacy. How to place furniture in the bedroom Undoubtedly, everyone tries to make a bedroom according to their tastes and needs, to fulfill all their desires and ideas. But only professionals will help you figure it out. With competent and careful design, the bedroom can be turned into a cozy corner of your home, in which an atmosphere of comfort and pleasure will reign. This material will help you create the necessary atmosphere in your favorite room. A standard set of furniture for placement in a room are: an armchair, a bed, bedside tables, a chair and a dressing table, a desk (if there is nowhere else to place it), a mirror, a separate or built-in wardrobe.

We all remember this wonderful age, this bright time, full of ideas, hobbies and all kinds of hobbies. Unique room design for a teenager When you are between 13 and 20 years old, you definitely want to be unique and in line with the latest fashion trends. Of course, this desire will not leave you throughout your life, but the time of adolescence is a time of change. Therefore, the design of a teenager's room should easily change depending on the mood and, at the same time, the change should not be a huge cost and hassle. Each teenager has his own room - a place where he can be himself. A place where he can invite his friends and demonstrate his uniqueness. Therefore, it is necessary to take into account, first of all, his interests during the furnishing and decoration of the room.

Designers know that it is quite difficult to create a comfortable and, at the same time, comfortable interior in a one-room apartment. True, it is not necessary to be upset prematurely, first of all, you need to clearly understand what the owner wants to have in the apartment, what areas in it will certainly be needed. Decoration of a 1-room apartment Before starting work on the arrangement of the interior design, it is necessary to note the primary tasks of the room. First of all, it is a bedroom where the owners of the house will rest. In most cases, another and at the same time key function for the space of the room will be the reception of guests and acquaintances, that is, it will also be the living room. In addition, when guests come, the space of the room should be at the same time a refectory. Therefore, the area of ​​the room should be symbolically divided into two separate zones - an area for relaxation and a guest area.

At this time, interior decoration in various types of design is gaining rapid recognition, which can often express a national trend. Japanese style Among the huge number of available fashionable styles of interior decoration, the so-called Japanese style has long occupied a special position; it is preferred not only for decorating living spaces, but also for creating an extraordinary appearance of a bath room.

Teenager, boy or girl aged 13-19. Not yet an adult, but no longer a child. Down with toys and forward to adulthood. How to furnish such a room and what features should be taken into account, who chooses the design - parents or a child? So, your child has grown up and is no longer a toddler, but a teenager who has a sense of his own importance. It's time to change the interior of the room to something "adult" and "cool". Room for a teenager First, you need to think about what kind of room design would be more to your child's liking, because if parents can dream of a classic style, then a teenager will easily call it "old-fashioned", but nevertheless, everyone will have to live in this room -So him, not you. Therefore, we choose, listen to the opinion of the teenager, discuss and come to some kind of common decision based on the points listed below.

In new apartments with a large area and in old apartments with outdated layouts, there is a desire to remake the premises for themselves. From one large room, you can always make two smaller ones. For these purposes, interior drywall partitions are used. They are an effective solution in this situation due to their lightness and ease of installation. Also, their construction does not need to be coordinated with anyone.

Such partitions can be used to separate the nursery where children of different sexes live. Alternatively, the living room can be converted into two bedrooms. Regardless of the situation, the process of erecting plasterboard partitions in the room will be the same.

Any design must have a number of positive qualities so that it can be used in practice. Let's consider what advantages can be given by drywall partitions that are used in the room of the apartment.

Selection of basic materials

Having decided on the need to use partitions to divide the space in the room, you should figure out the tools and materials that will be required to carry out the work.

Drywall is of course number one. A typical 12.5 mm thick plasterboard wall is used. The sheets have a standard width of 1.2 meters, and the lengths are 2.5 and 3 meters. There are other options, but these are standard. It is better to take those sheets that are shorter, since they are easier to bring into the house. You can take fire-resistant sheets (they have pink cardboard). In this situation, they will be appropriate if the children's room is divided, and power cables will be laid in the partition itself.

Sound insulation material is fixed thanks to metal profiles

An interior partition made of plasterboard with sound insulation will allow neighbors to comfortably listen to music, watch a movie or talk calmly. Since the room is divided into two parts, the use of soundproofing materials is necessary. They are installed in a metal frame.

Various profiles that can be used to assemble the frame

To assemble the frame, metal profiles are required. The standard length of such profiles ranges from 3-4 meters (short ones are more convenient, since it is more realistic to bring them into the apartment without cutting or bending). What profiles might you need?

1. Guides are classics of the genre. They are fixed to the surface and serve as the basis for attaching other profiles. It is convenient to cut jumpers from the guides.
2. The post profile is a thrust element of the supporting structures. It seems to support the entire frame, because it is used as a vertical support.
3. Corner and ceiling profiles are not used when creating interior partitions.

Installation of interior drywall partitionsinvolves the creation of a frame from profiles. But which profiles to take, because they all have different sizes? It is necessary to select the size so that the rack profile fits tightly into the guide. You need to look at this first. And then if you take guides 28x27 mm and racks 50x50 mm, then nothing will come of it. If a 50x40 guide profile is used, then the 50x50 mm racks will be just right.

Selection of fasteners and tools

To fix all elements of the interior partition made of gypsum plasterboard you will need:

• dowels 6x40 mm for fixing the frame to the floor, wall and ceiling;
• self-tapping screws phosphate black. The length of the self-tapping screw should be 25 mm if the wall plasterboard is attached in one layer. Sometimes, for greater reliability and better sound insulation of the interior partitions, drywall sheets are attached in two layers on top of each other. In this case, self-tapping screws 3.5x35 mm will be required for the second layer;
• bugs (small screws with a drill and press washer) are used to fasten the profiles to each other. They should be as short as possible (for example, 4.2x19 mm), and the head should be as flat as possible. The presence of the "bugs" drill simplifies their passage through two profiles.
• the sealing tape must be used. It is installed between the surface and the frame, thereby improving the sound insulation characteristics of the assembled structure.

In addition to fasteners, you will need special tools for the job. Without them, the installation of an interior plasterboard partition will not succeed. These tools include a screwdriver, drill, level, plumb line, metal scissors, construction knife, hammer and tape measure. However, this list is not complete or mandatory. Some tools are not required, but others may be useful instead (hole saw, cutter, chopping line, hammer drill, edge planer, etc.).

When the partition for dividing the room is assembled, it will need to be prepared for finishing. For these purposes you will need:

• primer;
• a roller with a container for it;
• putty;
• serpyanka;
• a set of spatulas;
• reinforcing corners;
• sandpaper.

Room layout

The quality of the partition depends on the correct layout of the room.

It is necessary to decide on the place where the partition will pass. With the help of a laser level, lines are drawn on the ceiling, walls and floor. If it is not there, then you will need to draw the first line on the ceiling. This requires a water level and a long ruler (guide profile).

Using a plumb line, the extreme points of the line on the ceiling are transferred to the floor. Now there are two points on the floor, between which another line is drawn. Upholstery cord can be used. Next, it's up to the little, draw lines on the walls in a similar way, focusing on the mark that is already on the floor and ceiling.

When do-it-yourself drywall partitions are assembled, they usually have a doorway, although not always. The space under the doorway also needs to be marked out in order to know to what place to let the profile on the floor and where to insert additional posts with mortgages.

General rules for assembling a frame for a partition

The interior partition should not rest against the window

The base of the frame is assembled from guide profiles that are attached along the perimeter of the future partition. The best place to start is from the ceiling. The guide is pressed against the ceiling and a hole is drilled with a drill. Then the dowel is hammered, which presses the guide to the surface. The fixing step is 0.5-1 meter, depending on the upcoming operational loads. Perhaps only a couple of hangers will be hung on the partition, or maybe it will be tiled and several massive book shelves will be attached to it.

Do not forget to use sealing tape wherever the profiles are in contact with any surface. This improves the soundproofing characteristics of the partition.

Similar to the guide, the rest of the profiles are attached to the ceiling. It is not necessary to dock them together in the corners. All the same, drywall in the corners is not attached with self-tapping screws. Now the perimeter of the future partition made of a metal profile and drywall is ready.

The location of the profiles in the frame

It is necessary to insert racks to strengthen the structure. They are inserted in increments of 40 to 60, depending on how the drywall sheets will then be attached. The fact is that the joints of the sheets should fall on the profile. Usually, the racks are installed with a step of 60 cm with the expectation that the entire structure will be additionally reinforced with jumpers.

The uprights should be installed sideways so that drywall can be attached to them from both sides. In other words, the ribs of the rack profile should run parallel to the plane of the frame.

When assembling an interior partition from drywall with your own hands, it is important that the gypsum board lies flat on the frame. Therefore, the racks are attached to the rails using a special cutter tool. If it is not there, then use small self-tapping screws for metal. Screw in two bugs in each place where the rack-mount profile enters the guide (in total, 8 self-tapping screws will come out for each rack). However, the caps stick out a little, which is why the drywall also does not fit perfectly flat.

Jumpers make the whole frame more durable

If the vertical posts were installed in 40 cm increments, then jumpers can be dispensed with. If the step is 60 cm, then you need to install several horizontal jumpers for greater structural strength. A profile is simply cut from the guides, which are mounted horizontally between the vertical posts. The step of fastening is 50-60 cm. The lintels are also fastened with bedbugs or with a cutter.

Jumpers can be specially installed at the attachment points of future shelves, so that their installation is even more reliable. You can insert a wooden bar into such a jumper if you plan to hang something massive on the wall.

How to fill the void of the partition: sound insulation

Depending on the thickness of the interior drywall partitions, you can choose how to fill the resulting void. The thickness is the sum of the width of the guide and two thicknesses of the gypsum board. The width of the rail is the same as the height of the rack-mount profile (not to be confused with the length) and is chosen by everyone individually. This width gives a certain void inside the partition.

It is possible to assemble two frames for partitions at a distance of 10-20 cm from each other. They are then sheathed with plasterboard, and a thick partition is obtained. They go to this step when they are going to place a lot of things inside such a structure.

There is enough space inside the structure to extend the power cable to connect an outlet or wall light. Such cables must necessarily go in a corrugation for fire safety purposes.

Soundproofing material should not be subject to combustion

In most cases, the cavity is filled with soundproofing material. Therefore, vertical posts are often installed with a pitch equal to the width of the soundproofing material. Then it fits without the need for additional trimming and does not tilt to the side. Sound insulation of interior drywall partitions should be carried out after one side of the structure is sheathed with gypsum board.

The sound-insulating material fits comfortably into the grooves of the upper and lower profile. It will rest against the back of one rack-mount profile, but will fit well into the intercostal space of the second rack. For this reason, the racks are placed so that they all look in the same direction. Some people prefer to install two poles back to back so that the soundproofing goes into them and does not rest on anything.

The horizontal lintels also serve as an additional fixation for sound insulation. Although this is not so critical, everything will ultimately be pressed by sheets of drywall.

Installing a doorway

Separately, it is worth dwelling on those cases when a door is required to be installed in the interior partitions. We will not consider the process of installing the door itself, but we will focus on how to correctly make an opening for this very door.

The interior door is not heavy enough to damage the partition structure

Before making an interior plasterboard partition, you need to decide where the door will stand. After calculations with the doorway, the points are marked on the floor where it will be located. It is necessary to take into account not only the width of the door leaf, but also the door frame itself, therefore the calculations are carried out carefully.

The floor profile is laid on both sides up to the doorway. A rack profile is inserted into each end of the rail, which goes all the way to the ceiling. There will be a doorway between these two profiles. To indicate the height of the opening, a horizontal lintel is installed between the two profiles. All actions are carried out using a level, because here errors are especially dangerous.

It is necessary to use wooden blocks that are inserted into the posts and the lintel. They should fit tightly into the profile, after which they are fixed with self-tapping screws. The upper jumper is additionally fixed with nails, which are driven into its end by two pieces. The resulting doorway, although it came out of the metal profile, is reinforced with wood bars.

Plasterboard step-by-step

When the frame of the interior partition is ready, then the matter is only small, because there is nothing complicated in plasterboard cladding.

Preparation for finishing

The resulting interior partition cannot remain in this form. It should be prepared for finishing.

Self-tapping caps do not need preliminary priming

All caps of self-tapping screws must be puttied. The joints between the sheets of drywall are first primed, and then putty. In this case, the primer makes sense only if the edges of the sheets have been chamfered. The use of a primer will make the adhesion of the starting putty to the surface of the gypsum board better. After applying the putty to the joints, you need to use a serpyanka, which will prevent the putty from cracking in these places in the future. The corner parts of the interior partition must be putty and reinforced with a special reinforcing corner.

When the putty is dry, you will need to sandpaper it to remove the bumps and sagging that may have formed during the work. After that, the interior plasterboard partition is all primed and putty. If necessary, the second layer of finishing putty can also be sanded with sandpaper.

Now the interior partition can be painted or pasted over with wallpaper of your choice.

30737 0 6

Frame from a profile for drywall: accessories and installation procedure

This article is about what and how to assemble a frame from a drywall profile. In it, I will describe the order of work, the design of the frames and the tool used in their assembly. Let's start, however, with why the galvanized profile is the optimal material for the lathing.

Why profile

When assembling the frame, we have to choose between an inexpensive bar with a section of 40x40 - 50x50 mm and a profile. I highly recommend choosing a profile for the following reasons:

• He always has perfect geometry... The block usually has to be sorted out, with a significant part of the material going to waste due to bends and "propellers";
• Geometry and dimensions of galvanized steel part remain constant at any fluctuations in humidity. The wood swells in damp weather (this, in particular, is associated with the rubbing of jambs with a wooden door on rainy days) and warps during drying. Deformation of the frame often leads to the appearance of cracks on the drywall at the seams;

Reinforcement of the seams solves the problem only with small deformations. Significant bending of the bar will inevitably damage the finish.

• Galvanizing in living conditions serves indefinitely... The bar cannot boast of this: mold, rot and insects often lead to the loss of strength in the structure or even its destruction after 10-15 years.
  Of course, there are methods for protecting wood from these factors (for example, sequential impregnation with antiseptic and drying oil), but they deprive wood of the main advantage - cheapness - and significantly increase the time required for assembling the frame or lathing.

Materials (edit)

Profiles

Now - about what types of galvanized profiles can be found on sale.

For the assembly of battens and frames, only four types of it are usually used:

The length of the guide profiles is 3 meters, the rack and ceiling profiles are 3 or 4 meters.

In addition, if desired, in hardware stores you can find:

• Corner perforated profile to strengthen the corners of walls and partitions;

• Flexible profile for arches and vaults.

Auxiliary components

For fixing the ceiling profile to capital structures, direct hangers are used. The ears of the U-shaped suspension are provided with perforations and are attached to the side walls of the CD.

Direct suspension. Product price - 4 rubles, design load - 40 kilograms, packing - 100 pieces in a package.

To connect the frame elements to each other, self-tapping screws for metal with a length of 9 mm are used.

When installing suspensions of guide profiles to solid walls and ceilings, dowel screws with a size of 6x60 or 8x80 mm are used. The size of the fasteners depends, first of all, on the material of the capital structures: longer dowel screws are useful with a thick layer of loose plaster.

Tools

What tool does the assembly of a frame from a drywall profile require?

• Metal scissors are needed for cutting galvanized;

Sometimes it is cut with a grinder with a circle for metal, but this is not entirely correct. Heating during abrasive cutting causes the zinc coating to burn out, and the edge of the profile in a humid environment begins to rust.

• Level and plumb line. They are needed to orient the frame elements in strictly horizontal and vertical positions;
• Square, tape measure, long ruler and marking pencil;
• Perforator with a drill for drilling holes for dowel screws;
• Screwdriver. It is absolutely unrealistic to screw in with your own hands, using a screwdriver, several hundred self-tapping screws for metal.

The screwdriver is the main tool for working with drywall and galvanized profiles.

Mounting

What scenarios does a novice builder most often encounter when working with drywall?

• WITH wall cladding(aligning their surface with the frame);
• With the installation of internal partitions(deaf, with door or window openings, with shelves and niches);
• With assembly false ceilings(horizontal, inclined and multilevel);

The photo shows a sloped plasterboard ceiling in my attic.

• WITH boxes for risers, combs (horizontal intra-apartment sewage system), air ducts, etc.

Let's see how to make a wireframe in each of these cases.

Wall cladding

1. We mark the position of the frame border. In general, the closer the guide profile is to the main wall, the better: so the cost of the useful area of ​​the room will be minimal. An exception is cases when the space between the main wall and the cladding is used for laying large-diameter communications (sewers, air ducts) or for creating niches.
   The markings are first performed on the floor, then transferred to the ceiling using a plumb line, after which the lines on the walls are drawn between the marks on horizontal surfaces along a long ruler or a profile pressed against the wall;

1. We fasten the guide ceiling profile UD along the entire perimeter of the wall with dowel screws with a pitch of 50-60 cm;

Captain Evidence suggests: if there is a doorway in the wall, a gap is left in the bottom of the doorway along the entire width of the opening.

1. The position of the ceiling profiles is marked on the main wall. They are usually mounted vertically. The step between the longitudinal axes of adjacent CDs should be exactly 60 centimeters: then the seams between adjacent sheets of gypsum board (remember, the standard width of a drywall sheet is 120 centimeters) will fall in the middle of the profile;

A pair of additional CDs are installed along the edges of the doorway, connected at the top by a lintel from the same profile. They will allow you to sheathe the slopes.

1. Along each line with a step of 80 cm, direct suspensions are attached with dowel screws;

1. Then the ceiling profiles are cut to length and inserted into the guides along the marking lines;
2. The ears of the suspensions are attracted to a ruler aligned along the edge or according to the rule of the profile with self-tapping screws 9 mm long. The free parts of the ears are bent towards the wall.
3. Each CD is attracted to the UD at the top and bottom by a pair of metal screws. This completes the assembly of the frame, you can proceed to its plasterboard sheathing.

If the height of the wall exceeds the length of the gypsum board, at the junction of the whole sheet with the additional one, it is worthwhile to provide a horizontal jumper from the same CD. When the edges of adjacent sheets are attached to a common profile for them, the likelihood of cracks along the seam is minimal. However, in the upper part of the wall, where the sheathing does not experience deforming loads, with high-quality reinforcement of the seams, you can do without jumpers.

Partition

When assembling the partition, the structure of the frame made of a metal profile for drywall is noticeably different from that described above: UW guide profiles and CW rack profiles are used.

Here are the step-by-step instructions for installing the frame:

1. Guides are attached to the capital structures along the perimeter of the partition. For fastening, dowel screws with a hose of the same 50 - 60 centimeters are used. If a doorway is provided in the partition, a gap is left in the lower guide in this case in its entire width;
2. With a step of exactly 60 centimeters, the posts from the CW profile cut to the required length are inserted into the lower and upper rails. It is better to take measurements of the height for each rack separately: the differences in the distance between the floor slabs can be calculated in centimeters;

When marking the position of the posts, take risks not on the profile, but on the floor and ceiling surfaces with a small distance from the guide. These marks will help you locate the uprights when plastering the frame with drywall.

1. Each rack is attached to the rails with metal screws.

Doors, windows

Installation into a partition deserves a separate description.

It is performed at the stage of assembling the frame in the following order:

1. The door leaf is hung on hinges and wedged in a box with cardboard folded in several layers, scraps of hardboard, plywood or chips. This is necessary so that the door does not overwrite the jambs after installation;
2. One of the pillars adjacent to the doorway is installed in a strictly vertical position and is attached to the guides;
3. A strip of polyurethane foam or sealant is applied to it, after which the rack is attracted to the door frame with self-tapping screws 16 - 25 mm long in increments of no more than 50 cm;
4. On the opposite side, the second post is attached in a similar way;
5. Both posts are connected with a horizontal crosspiece from the same CW profile. The method of fastening to the horizontal crossbar of the door frame is the same.

A light window (for example, in the wall of a bathroom) is fixed in the same way. There are only two differences:

• A break in the bottom rail is understandably unnecessary;
• There are two horizontal bridges between the posts - above and below the window opening.

Arches

The arch frame is bent from a special flexible profile, as well as from a guide or post cut with a step of 10-15 cm. The arch becomes rigid in the process of plating the gypsum board; additional reinforcing bridges between the elements of its frame are possible, but not required.

Gain

In rooms with significant loads on the walls (in an apartment this is primarily a hallway and a kitchen), they need a reinforced frame. Stiffness in relation to horizontal loads is achieved, first of all, by increasing the width of the post and guide profile from 50 to 75 or 100 millimeters. If this is undesirable due to the small area of ​​\ u200b \ u200bthe premises, you can make the frame as strong as possible in other ways:

• By reducing the step between the uprights from 60 to 40 centimeters;
• By connecting the rack profiles in pairs;
• Putting in the racks wooden mortgages- bars with a section of 50x50 mm.

In addition: with significant expected loads on the walls, they are sheathed with plasterboard in two layers. Sheets of the first and second layers are fastened with the obligatory overlap of horizontal and vertical seams. The first layer is fixed with self-tapping screws 25 mm long at the rate of 20 - 30 pieces per sheet, the second - with self-tapping screws 45 mm long at the rate of 50 - 70 pieces per sheet.

Noise isolation

The hollow GCR baffle has an unpleasant feature: it acts as a resonator, amplifying sound vibrations. Soundproofing a wall requires an integrated approach:

• Placed under the guide profile damper tape, which will exclude the transmission of low-frequency vibrations to capital structures. Instead, you can use polyethylene foam cut into strips of the appropriate width;
• The frame is filled with mineral wool. It is better to use glued plates with a size of 1000x600 mm: they will fit between the racks without cutting in width, and will not cake, leaving voids in the filling of the wall;

• Finally, the most effective solution is to acoustically decouple the partition surfaces from each other by creating two independent frames for them. In this case, two guide profiles are mounted along the perimeter of the partition at a minimum distance from each other; the posts are installed in them in a staggered manner so that each post is in contact with only one side of the casing.

Captain Evidence suggests that the thickness of the partition will increase to at least 100 millimeters.

Shelves, niches

To place niches or shelves in the partition, we also have to build two independent frames. The basis of the shelves is the horizontal lintels between the CW profiles. With a partition thickness of more than 15-20 centimeters, the shelves are reinforced with additional bridges between the two frames.

Suspended ceiling

How to make a frame from a drywall profile correctly when installing a suspended ceiling?

The general principles for assembling the frame of a single-level ceiling are the same as for wall cladding with plasterboard: ceiling and guide ceiling profiles are used; CDs are attached to ceilings or beams with straight hangers.

There are, however, differences:

• It is better to reduce the step between suspensions to 60 cm, which will exclude the possibility of ceiling sagging;
• It is advisable to align the ceiling profiles not along the ruler or the edge of another profile, but along several strands stretched across them between the guide threads. At first, the CDs are pressed against the ceiling with the curved ears of the suspensions, then they are released one by one, aligned in the horizontal plane along a thread, and finally attached to the suspension.

If the ceiling is multi-level, the drop can be created in several ways:

• By combining straight hangers and elongated hangers with knitting needles;

• Using post and guide profiles. CW is used as uprights, while UW connects them and secures them to the floor;

• Finally, with a low room height, the higher part of the ceiling is made of plaster or leveled with plasterboard, fixed to the floor surface with gypsum glue and (temporarily) with dowel screws.

The last case should be analyzed separately. GKL is attached in the following order:

1. The surface of the rough ceiling is cleaned of low-adhesive coatings (peeling plaster, whitewash, paint, etc.);

Hint: Plaster and whitewash can be removed with a hard steel trowel without raising any dust if soaked in water. To do this, the ceiling is wetted from the sprayer two or three times with an interval of 10-15 minutes.

1. Then the surface is dust-free with a brush or vacuum cleaner;
2. The cleaned ceiling is primed with a penetrating acrylic primer. The primer will prevent the surface from shedding and will adhere the remaining dust to the substrate. It is advisable to add an antiseptic to it, since the gypsum board will limit the ventilation of the ceiling;
3. A sheet of drywall is pressed against the ceiling by assistants, after which holes for dowel screws are drilled right through it in the ceiling. The step between the attachment points is no more than half a meter;
4. Plaster glue cakes are superimposed on the sheet in increments of no more than 15 cm. Along the edge of the sheet with a small indent from it, it is worth forming an intermittent roller of glue. The gaps will allow air to escape from the space between the gypsum board and the rough ceiling;

1. GKL is pressed against the ceiling and fixed with dowel screws;
2. Then the sheet is leveled horizontally. You can raise or lower a section of the sheet by screwing or unscrewing the dowel screws;
3. When the glue sets (it takes up to 6 hours), the fasteners are removed, and the holes from it are putty with gypsum or acrylic putty.

Box

The easiest way to assemble a box from a drywall profile is from the rack and guide profiles. The guide rail is used for fastening the frame to the floor, ceiling and main walls, rack-mount - for the manufacture of vertical frame elements and lintels between them. Jumpers, by the way, are not necessary: ​​the frame will acquire maximum rigidity after sheathing with wall gypsum board.

Different types of profiles can be combined. In the picture, the uprights are made from CW and UW, and the lintels are from the ceiling CD.

An important point: in most cases hiding communications in a non-separable box is a very bad idea... So, risers and water supply lines, as well as sewage can be made hidden only if the following conditions are met:

1. There are no revisions or tees on the riser for cleaning;

1. The sewer riser is assembled from plastic pipes, each of which is fixed at the socket with a clamp, which excludes its subsidence;
2. Water supply risers are made of polypropylene, copper or corrugated stainless pipes with maintenance-free connections (brazed or, in the case of stainless steel, compression with silicone seals).

It is categorically impossible to hide steel pipes in a non-separable box for two reasons:

• They have a limited lifespan. Leaking pipes in the box will force you to dismantle it to repair or replace the riser section;
• Lack of ventilation in the box will lead to the appearance of condensation on the cold water pipes in the summer. Dampness will shorten the already short life of the steel riser.

In addition: risers are common property of residents of the house, and access to them may be required at any time. For example, when a neighbor leaks from below or above, or when a sewer riser is clogged.