Fence: optimal distance between supports. Pillars for a fence made of corrugated board: the materials used, what determines the distance and depth, the stages of installation At what distance are the posts for the fence

27.05.2012 04:11

The most popular country fence today is chain-link fence... Mass recognition and interest of summer residents he
earned it not by chance. The most important plus is the price of a fence from a mesh chain-link. The cost of installing a fence from a mesh netting , in comparison with other types of fences, it differs at times, of course, in a smaller direction. The low price of a chain-link fence is due to two indicators: the price of the material and the cost of installation. The price of a mesh netting, or to be more precise, one roll today ranges from 280 to 550 rubles. The cheapest is a galvanized chain-link mesh with a small wire diameter, and the most expensive is a polymer-coated chain-link mesh. The color of the polymer coating of the mesh netting has practically no effect on the price of the goods. As for the installation of a chain-link fence, we can say - "a chain-link fence is easily installed with your own hands, without the use of special installation tools." ASK Aegida will help you understand all the intricacies of this type of work.

Installation instructions for a fence from a mesh chain-link

Before starting the installation of the fence, we mark the corner posts and the installation site of the entrance gate with a wicket. Corner posts it is recommended to use concrete, since the main force from the mesh tension will be distributed on them. The posts for the installation of the netting, the chain-link, are used mainly of circular cross-section, with a diameter of 38 to 60 mm, and a length of 1.5 to 4 meters, depending on the type of soil and the purpose of the fence. The most common mesh roll height, the chain-link, is from 1200 to 1500 mm, and the length is from 10 to 15 meters. After installing the corner posts, we pull the twine between them along the top and bottom. The lower twine is necessary for straight-line marking of the fence between the main corner posts. The upper twine will further serve to mark the height of the fence and horizontal alignment. The next step in installing a fence from a chain-link mesh is to determine the equal distances between the posts and their number. Example:

• Let's say the distance between the corner posts is 36 meters. The distance between adjacent posts should be 2.5 meters.
• We divide the length of one side of the fence by the distance between adjacent posts 36: 2.5 = 14.4 We got the required number of posts - 14.5 pieces. Further, the distance between the corner posts (36 m) is divided by the number of pillars obtained (14.5 pieces) 36: 14.5 = 2.48 meters. We have determined the distance through which it is necessary to install the pillars from each other. It was 2.48 meters. Millimeters do not need to be caught, since visually on such a span they will not create problems with asymmetry.

Having determined the distances, we choose the method of installing the posts for the fence from the chain-link. There are three of them. The first one is the simplest: driving a pole into the ground. It is carried out using a unified device. If you hammer with an ordinary sledgehammer, then there is every chance of crushing the pipe heads and spoiling the presentation of the future fence. Be careful. The next type of fence pipe installation is layer-by-layer crushed stone with tamping. It belongs to the cheapest and at the same time reliable installation method. This type of installation completely eliminates winter heaving and squeezing the column out of the ground. The last type of installation includes two previous methods, only together with them, the process of concreting is going on in parallel, both partial, only the upper part of the column, and complete to the depth of soil freezing.

Well, now the pillars are set and it's time to perform mesh installation chain-link... The installation of the netting of the chain-link begins with the deployment of net rolls along the installed posts. Next, it is necessary to connect the edges of adjacent rolls together so that a single mesh is obtained, equal to the length of one side of the section. Tying the ends of adjacent rolls is performed as follows: it is necessary to unscrew the outermost wire from the end of one roll, then both ends of adjacent rolls are aligned, and the twisted wire is screwed back, connecting both ends. In this way, all other rolls are connected to each other.

After weaving mesh netting we proceed to the final stage
installation of a fence, hanging the mesh on mounted poles. Here you will need an assistant, pulling the netting of the chain-link alone is a very tedious task. Two people lift the net from the ground and lean it against the posts. If there are mustaches prepared in advance on the posts, then the netting is put on them. If there are no such mustaches, then the netting is fixed to the first post using metal clamps or plastic ties. Next, one person goes in front and lifts the net, and the second pulls it on and fixes it on the pole with clamps. Thus, the entire perimeter is hung out. In order to avoid sagging the wire in the future, especially in winter, when the mesh is covered with wet snow, and it sags under its weight, it is necessary to pass a steel wire along the top of the mesh fence. It is passed between the top mesh cells along the entire perimeter of the fence. After installing it, you will forget about the problems associated with the sagging of the fence. The article was prepared by the company

Fences are of various types - from modern fences with horizontal metal picket fences, which can be ordered on the website zabor2000.ru, to brick or from a chain-link mesh. The choice always remains with the owner of the suburban area, but with its independent installation or construction, it is necessary to determine the dimensions of the structure, and most importantly, the distance between the pillars in the 1st span. The stability, reliability and durability of the entire structure depend on this.

The length of the span between the supports is selected depending on the type of fence. The greatest demand is for enclosing structures made of the following materials:

• brick (stone);
• corrugated board;
• wood;
• Rabitz.

Brickwork

When building a fence made of brick or stone, the pillars are usually made of a similar material or reinforced concrete. The distance between the pillars is mainly provided within 2.5-3.5 m. They are encountered with spans up to 6 m, when the total length of the fence is too large, and the finances for the purchase of building materials are limited. In this case, in order to increase the strength characteristics, it is recommended to additionally reinforce the structure - in the seams between the rows of bricks (over their entire length), additionally lay steel wire with a cross section of 4-6 mm. It is more expedient to reinforce every 2-3 rows.

There are many design options for brick fences - with forged sections, corrugated board inserts, wood, mesh, etc. But this should in no way affect the length of the span between the bearing supports - it should be no more than 3.5 m.

Installation of pillars for the installation of a fence made of corrugated board, boards and netting

As pillars for fences made of these materials, it is advisable to use a profile pipe with a section of 40 × 20 or 40 × 40 mm. It is allowed to use a round pipe with a diameter of 40 mm or angle No. 63.

For the installation of supports, it is necessary to prepare a pit 500-600 mm deep and 300-400 mm wide, place a prepared post in it and hammer it a little into the ground. Tamp down to a height of 100-200 mm with dump slag and pour the base with concrete level with the ground. This will significantly increase the rigidity of the fence.

When creating a fence between the pillars, a distance of 2-3 m must be observed. These are optimal values, which ensure high structural strength and minimal labor intensity of the process. An increase in the step leads to a decrease in the reliability of the fence, its increased tendency to deformation, and, as a result, to unjustified financial costs for restoration.

Properly installed high-quality pillars are the key to the durability and steadiness of any fence. Supports made of any material: wood, metal, concrete, with the correct calculation and professional installation, are able to withstand the greatest loads: in summer - wind loads, in winter - frost heaving forces. For the entire range of fences: from profiled sheet, boards, mesh, monolithic concrete and even rare polycarbonate and triplex, only a few types of supports are used, on which the strength, reliability and stability of the fence depend.

Correct installation of pillars is a guarantee of the longevity of the fence.

What types of pillars are most often used in private housing construction? Of course,

• wooden supports,
• metal round pipes,
• profiled pipes of different cross-sections,
• screw supports,
• concrete,
• brick pillars with a core inside.

  Wooden fencing.

Many of the options for installing them are -

• step between the pillars,
• penetration depth,
• method of fixing in the soil

depend on the type of fence, the depth of soil freezing, the level of groundwater. How to install the pillars correctly so that the fence stands for a long time?

Supports from a round pipe for a fence made of corrugated board.

• 1 Processing of supports
• 2 How deep to bury a post
• 3 How to find out the depth of soil freezing
• 4 At what distance to put the pillars

Support processing

Supports are a very important part of the structure of the fence, which, no less than the filling material, is exposed to rain, snow, hail, ultraviolet radiation and wind. The underground part of the support is also affected by aggressive soil moisture with alkalis and acids dissolved in it, and pushing forces - straight and tangential, which appear under the influence of frost heaving. Therefore, any supports buried in the ground, except, perhaps, screw ones, must be processed with special means.

Bituminous varnish.

To protect wooden supports, impregnation of antiseptics is used, the bottom of the pillar is treated with bitumen mastic, working off or creosote, roofing felt glasses are arranged in the hole, and even just the bottom of the pillar is wrapped in dense polyethylene. An effective method of installing wooden supports downward with conductive channels - according to the law of osmosis, they do not draw moisture inside.

Impregnation of a wooden post.

The bottom of the metal supports and recessed fittings should be treated with an anti-corrosion primer and painted. Particular attention on all types of pillars should be paid to the border of the ground part of the pillar and the buried one - as the most susceptible to corrosive processes, it is in this place that, with insufficient processing, the pillar breaks.

Priming the metal support.

How deep to bury the pillar

The depth of burial of supports depends on the type of soil and the level of groundwater in each specific area. Moreover, even within the perimeter of one intake, the groundwater level can change. In this case, the fence will have to be installed either on screw supports or cast a shallow strip foundation. The force of pressure from the ground in winter will be absorbed and evenly distributed by the concrete belt. It is noteworthy that the force of frost heaving pressure also depends on the depth of the snow cover in the area. That is, the supports located near the tracks to be cleared of snow will be squeezed out faster than the pillars covered with snow.

Pouring the foundation for the fence.

When building light and temporary fences from a chain-link mesh or picket fence, the supports are shallow - by 0.7-0.8 m, sometimes they are installed by hammering. Often in the spring, you can observe the pillars that have partially left the ground or rickety pillars, which the owners of the plots with a sledgehammer again deepen into place.

The pillars will have to be driven in annually if they are not deep enough.

For more serious fences - fences made of corrugated board, wooden fences, pillars with a metal core, it is necessary to deepen the supports below the freezing depth of the soil by 20 cm.Pulling forces from below do not act on the pillar installed at such a depth - they are simply not there, but only tangential forces act ... If the supports are smooth, in a roofing felt glass, polyethylene or covered with rubble, the tangential forces will not produce any effect on the post. In no case should you make a concrete blotch around the support, driven in or sprinkled with rubble. In winter heaving, the ground, bound by frost with concrete, will pull the pole out of the ground.

If the soil is very heaving or it is not possible to deepen the support so much, a metal heel or 2 rods of reinforcement crosswise are welded onto its bottom. They will keep the pole from being pulled out of the ground.

TISE piles.

How to find out the depth of soil freezing

The standard depth of soil freezing is given in SNIPs by region. In fact, you will have to recognize it yourself at each site. The best source of information is neighbors with already installed fences, foundations, or water wells. For more comprehensive information, you can dig a hole with a depth of 2-2.5 m.

Standard frost penetration depth.

GPG depends on 3 main factors:

How far to put the pillars

When designing a fence, the question arises: how far apart should the posts be? Pillars, like solid fences, are constantly under wind load. There is no region in which a storm with a wind force of 20 m / s has not happened at least once a year. Fences made of mesh, picket fences, lattice and forged fences are subject to less wind load. The owners of fences made of corrugated board, solid wooden fences will have to pay attention to the calculations of the wind load.

A fence made of corrugated board, rickety from the wind.

The forces of weight and wind forces act on the fence in summer. The force of the weight acts along the axis of the column without causing a bending moment. The wind blows across the fence and causes a significant load, many times higher than its own weight. Therefore, a bending moment acts on the support, which has a maximum point of application at the point where the column exits the ground.

Strong winds can tear down the fence.

For solid fences, the best distance between the posts is taken to be 2 meters. If a fence is arranged from a chain-link mesh, then the supports will not be affected by the wind load, but by the compression force of the mesh. It is recommended to put supports for a chain-link fence at a distance of no more than 2-2.5 m from each other, and to maintain it, arrange logs or stretch a supporting wire. Low windage and no compressive force on the welded mesh fence supports - they can be placed at a distance of 3 to 6 m from each other.

The chain-link fence has a low windage.

If the distance between the supports depends on the length of the fence sections and cannot be changed, the stability of the pillars will only have to be adjusted by the depth and strength of the pillar itself. To compensate for the load on the pillars, their depth should be at least equal to the height of the fence, plus another 10 cm.

It will be necessary to adjust the stability of the sectional fence by the depth of installation of the supports and their strength characteristics.

The greater the distance between the posts and the longer the section, as well as the higher the fence, the stronger the pipe must be chosen. For example, for the device of a fence made of corrugated board with a section length of 2 m and a height of 2 m, a round pipe with a section of 76 mm and a pipe wall thickness of 4 mm or a square pipe with a section of 60 mm and a wall thickness of 4 mm is suitable. When the section length is increased to 2.5 m, these parameters must be recalculated according to the formulas for calculating the support pillar for strength - you will need a round pipe with a section of 89 mm with a wall thickness of 3.5 mm and a square pipe with a section of 80 mm with a wall thickness of 3 mm.

The 2 mm thick pipe, loved by sellers, is not suitable for fence posts.

When calculating the wind load, you need to take into account in what area the fence is being erected. It will be necessary to increase the strength of the fence with additional logs or jibs if the fence passes through the territory blown by all the winds. If the fence passes through a forest, gardens or on the territory of a cottage village with low-rise buildings, the influence of winds will be reduced.

One of the obvious advantages of fences made of such material as a professional sheet is that it is quite possible to build these fences with your own hands, without resorting to the help of expensive construction teams. The work is quite simple, after studying the instructions, in fact, anyone who is familiar with the instrument firsthand will probably be able to cope. But there are also corresponding nuances. For example, one of the key problems is the correct positioning of the posts. How to deal with this task effectively? What should be the distance between the posts of the fence made of corrugated board, and how to calculate it correctly? After all, this is the main parameter that is designed to ensure the strength and durability of the structure. Indeed, even the most reliable material will not withstand the onslaught of weather conditions or an accidental mechanical shock if it is not securely fixed with pillars. And they, in turn, will not bear the load when they are not installed according to the rules.

The basis of every “self-respecting” fence is pillars with lags. And installing them is the most time-consuming part of the whole work. Of course, the maximum possible distance between the fence posts made of corrugated board significantly reduces the overall cost, saves money. But too long runs make it difficult to install the profiled sheet and "undermine" the strength of the structure. The optimal golden mean would be about two and a half or three meters. This figure may vary in one direction or another, but, as a rule, no more than 3. Also, the gaps between the supports directly depend on the materials from which the pillars themselves are made, and on the installation method (we will talk about these two nuances below). In addition, the more firmly the supports are rooted, the longer the distance between them can be. And when they build a fence with a height of more than 2.5 meters, then on the contrary - it is shorter. Structures with brick pillars have the greatest strength. Used as elements and metal pipes and profiles, wood and asbestos products. So the choice is large enough for a building under construction. It is important to observe some of the rules for marking with the installation, and an important security function of the home or site is at your service.

An example of marking pillars for a fence made of profiled sheet

Pillars - the basis of the fence

In general, the structure on which the profiled sheet is attached consists of:

• The main supporting elements, which are installed at the corners of the site and on the sides of the gate. Usually, these pillars differ in their slightly greater thickness, as they experience increased loads.
• Intermediate support elements. Often, for economic reasons, they are chosen to be thinner, because they are less loaded.
• Raskosov. These elements are used to level the supports when the soil conditions do not allow concreting with the proper efficiency.
• Horizontal lags. They are constructed from beams, or from small section profiles (30x30, 20x40 millimeters).

Fence construction drawing

All elements must be rigidly connected to each other. For this, both welding and mechanical connectors are used. How to choose the right supports, because the modern market provides products of various types?

A matter of choice

Which of the supports are commonly used for corrugated sheet fences? The following types are widely used:

• metal;
• wooden;
• profile;
• reinforced concrete;
• with brick pillars;
• asbestos-cement.

Their length can be determined, depending on the height of the canvas (selected, as a rule, individually). The posts usually get slightly longer than the chosen height (per meter). The upper sections, if the supports are hollow inside, are welded, sealed, a plug is installed - depending on what material they are made of. This prevents liquid from getting inside the racks.

Metal

It is the most common material for fence posts. Such supports are made from sections of a round or profiled pipe with rather thick walls (thickness is at least 2 millimeters, for high structures - up to 3). The second option is distinguished by greater technical strength, and it looks much more presentable and modern. The length of the parts depends directly on the height of the fence. Deepening into the soil - from a meter (on dense soils) to one and a half. The metal must be subjected to additional anti-corrosion treatment. And the upper segment of the support must be renewed annually, covering it with protective compounds (for example, paint or varnish). The profile cut should be welded, or a suitable plug should be installed to prevent water from entering the product.

Profile posts for a profiled sheet fence

Wood

This post material is used in temporary structures. Wooden supports, of course, are inferior in their characteristics to the same metal or brick ones. But when it comes to saving, they are applicable quite often. Usually, these are conifers: pine and spruce. The material itself is chosen with a sufficient section and without large knots and cracks, even. Do not forget to treat the supports with an antiseptic agent - from pests. And grease the lower part with mastic to prevent moisture penetration.

Example of a base for a brick pillar

Concrete and brick

Prefabricated concrete structures are an alternative to the above supports. The product is made of sand, cement, construction crushed stone. The pillar itself is divided into 2 sections: the lower one is embedded in the soil (0.8 - 1.2 meters), and the upper one is equipped with grooves for lag fastenings. Such products have reduced deformation from the effects of windage. As an option: with brick pillars, as well as in combination - brickwork and a round pipe. This method is excellent in terms of strength and aesthetic appearance, but erection of a structure "on a brick" will require more substantial costs and additional work.

Asbestos-cement pipes

The supports made of this material still hold a fairly solid position. After all, asbestos-cement pipes coated with a special composition can stand for decades, almost without requiring attention - painting, processing! Low cost, resistance to moisture, pests - an excellent budget option. But each material has its own drawbacks. They also have asbestos-cement products. They are very fragile, which makes them difficult to transport. The pipe is heavy, bulky, which makes installation difficult. You also need to prevent liquids from getting inside the product: when they freeze, they will expand, and the pillar may split.

Asbestos-cement pipes for supports

Top pipe plug option

Work order

Let's say you have decided on the choice of supports, and now you need to proceed directly to the installation. The simplest option is concreting (unless it is a short-term structure). Here is a rough work plan step by step.

1. We start by marking the area to be fenced off. On the ground, we mark the perimeter with a measuring cord (we also use wooden or metal pegs).
2. Next, let's start applying the markings, actually under the supports. The optimal distance for fences made of corrugated board, according to many masters, is a distance of 2.5-3 meters - from post to post. This is directly related to the nuance that the profile used for mounting the log horizontally of the structure is six meters long. Thus, when marking spans of a specified length, it is easier to dock the logs.

Drilling holes for supports

1. At the marked points with the help of a drill (see photo) we make holes in the soils. The diameter of the holes for the pillars should be at least a hundred millimeters larger than that of the supports.
2. We fill the drilled holes with crushed stone. We seal with a tamper. We put each element separately, leveling it along the plumb line / level.
3. We fill up the gravel on top (up to half), and fill in the cement solution.
4. We fix the posts with boards or braces. When the solution hardens completely, remove the fixation. Only then can the lags be attached.

We draw your attention to the fact that the installation of pillars for a fence made of corrugated board according to the rules is an indispensable condition, it determines the durability of the structure, its strength. Experts advise at this stage not to rush, but to do everything thoughtfully - as described in the instructions. Better to spend a little extra time than to rebuild the "collapsed" fence later!

Be sure to watch the video:

The distance between the fence posts made of corrugated board, picket fence, mesh or other materials is the main parameter that ensures the strength and durability of the entire structure. Even reliable materials for the fence fabric will not withstand the onslaught of bad weather with strong winds, or an accidental mechanical shock if they are not securely fixed to the fence posts. And the fence posts will not withstand the loads if they are incorrectly installed.

You can protect yourself from prying eyes or limit the entry of people and animals into the territory by correctly installing a fence.

A fence for a site can tell a lot about the owner. Both positive information about its good taste, and very undesirable information about the possibilities for illegal penetration.

Varieties of fences

• Wooden fence. Positive qualities are the availability of material, cheapness and speed of construction. Negative properties - fragility, the need for constant care in the form of tinting, unreliability. Such a fence can itself askew from time to time or be easily damaged. Various types of timber or a metal pipe are used as pillars and guides for securing the fence-lag curtain. The distance between the fence posts in this case depends on the thickness of the supports and on the height and weight of the canvas boards. A kind of wooden fence, a picket fence, is good only as a separator between the areas of neighbors, as an external fence it is suitable only as the upper part of a fence with a brick or concrete base.

If you are attracted by the grace and lightness of the picket fence, but there is no desire to constantly tint and repair it, it makes sense to pay attention to. It is an increasingly popular material, easy to install, combining all the advantages of the lightness of a wooden picket fence, and the strength and durability of metal. To protect against corrosion, the metal picket fence can be galvanized or durable powder paint.

Fence made of pre-fabricated concrete sections. A clear advantage is durability and strength. Negative properties - the impossibility of construction without construction equipment, the need for a serious foundation for the installation of powerful concrete pillars, high cost, boring exterior.

The distance between the posts in a mesh fence is not so critical, since non-solid fences are less susceptible to wind conditions. In this case, more attention should be paid to the weight of one section, if the canvas is framed, or the weight of the gap between the posts. It should be remembered that in such a design of the fence there are no transverse logs and the entire load falls on the pillars. The weight per square meter of the mesh, depending on its type, is usually indicated by the manufacturer. The metal pipes of the supports should be buried at least 1.0 m if they are not installed in foundation blocks, but directly into the ground. The hole under the support from further subsidence should be compacted with a layer of crushed stone.




The distance between the fence posts from the chain-link mesh should not be more than 2 meters, since it is difficult to pull the mesh, and the fasteners may not support the weight of the material, which will lead to the mesh lagging behind the posts and sagging.

Brick pillars - reliable and beautiful

Durable and beautiful pillars made of brick or stone will decorate any fence. Over time, the canvases between them can be replaced with any material you like, the supports themselves will last a very long time and will invariably decorate the entire structure of the fence.

Without support on the foundation, a brick pillar, despite its solid weight, will not stand for a long time.

The choice of the type of foundation depends on what material the filling will be from. For light spans, a columnar foundation is suitable for each support. The penetration depth should be determined taking into account wind loads and winter heaving, especially for areas with a high groundwater occurrence. The distance between the brick pillars of the fence made of corrugated board, due to the reliability of the supports, can be over 3 m.

The supporting structure for the brick post will be an internal reinforcement with a steel pipe or reinforcement cage.



Columnar foundation.

If you are planning a completely brick fence, a fence made of decorative fence blocks cast from concrete, or a heavy forged fence, you will need a strip foundation.




The erection of brick pillars should begin after the concrete of the foundations has gained sufficient density, at least two weeks in the summer and four in the autumn - winter. Concrete work should be carried out at a positive air temperature.

Usually, fence posts are made in 1.5 or 2 bricks, with dimensions of 380x380 mm and 510x510 mm in cross-section, up to 3 m high. More powerful posts usually frame the gate.




The masonry is carried out with an offset (bandaging) in such a way that the vertical seam of the lower row is half overlapped by the body of the upper brick. Joint width - 8-10mm. For masonry, a cement-sand mortar with a ratio of 1: 5 is used. Cement - high grade, not less than M400.

For the top of the post, a concrete or metal cap with waterproofing of the top row of bricks should be provided. This will protect the inside from destruction by atmospheric precipitation.

For example, for a post with a height of 2.5 meters, you will need:

• 2.5m / (65mm (brick height) + 10mm (masonry joint)) x 4 = 133 pcs.

  Up to 10% per battle should be added to the required amount.

During the laying process, the following should be carefully monitored:

Verticality. After several rows of bricks with a plumb line or level, otherwise minor deviations when laying a row of bricks can lead to an increase in overall dimensions or a slope of the surface to either side;