What is the best way to build a house. What is cheaper to build a house from - various ways

The first and main issue to be resolved before the start of construction of a country house is the choice of material.

Not only the comfort of living, but also the level of energy saving depends on the correctness of his decision. Let us consider in more detail what materials are offered on the market today and how each of them fits into the universal formula "price-environmental-friendliness-energy saving".

Brick house (brick, ceramic blocks)

There are two advantages of such a building - durability and environmental friendliness. Indeed, in terms of its bearing capacity, a brick wall is not much inferior to a concrete one. At the same time, it does not contain crushed granite, which gives a radiation background in buildings with a monolithic reinforced concrete frame and floor panels. However, in terms of energy saving, walls built entirely of solid clay or silicate bricks are seriously inferior to other materials.

In order to meet the modern rigid framework of energy efficiency, the thickness of a brick wall must be at least 120 cm. It is clear that there is no point in building such a powerful "bunker". Therefore, nowadays brick is losing its primacy and is most often used as a decorative exterior cladding.

Attempts to improve the energy-saving qualities of bricks have been going on for a long time. To do this, voids of various shapes (point or slot) are made in it. Such a modification gives a small increase in the energy efficiency of the wall structure, but does not fundamentally solve the issue. If we add to this the laboriousness of building walls from small-sized standard clay bricks, it becomes clear that he needs to look for a replacement.

A good solution to the question of what is better to build a house from is to buy, produced under various brands (Porotherm, Kerakam, Poroton, etc.)

This large-sized material (250x250x140 mm, 380x250x219mm, 510x250x219mm) replaces 4 to 14 standard bricks (250x120x65mm). Thanks to this, the laying process becomes faster and easier.

The thermal conductivity coefficient of such walls is 0.21 W / m ° C, which is almost 3 times less than that of ordinary bricks. In terms of strength, the ceramic block is also not inferior to it (100 kg / cm2) and at the same time it has good frost resistance (up to 50 freeze-thaw cycles) and vapor permeability.

The only drawback of porous ceramic blocks in the recent past was their high cost (more than 4,000 rubles per 1 m3). In 2016, the average price for this material decreased and ranged from 3,500 rubles per cubic meter.

House from building blocks

Large-sized building blocks seriously pressed the standard clay brick. And the point here is not only that their installation requires less time and effort. Affordable price is an important factor determining the choice of a developer. Since the list of building blocks produced today is quite extensive, we will talk separately about each type.

Foam and gas blocks

These materials today enjoy deserved popularity in low-rise construction. The fundamental difference between foam and gas blocks lies in the manufacturing technology and internal structure.

Aerated concrete is obtained by introducing a powder blowing agent into a mixture of cement, sand, lime and water, which creates a network of small through channels inside the material. A foaming agent is added to the raw material for foam concrete, which creates closed pores filled with air inside the block. This also significantly reduces the weight of the unit and increases its energy-saving characteristics.

Open channels serve as good conductors of moisture, so gas blocks need to be protected from getting wet. The foam block is more profitable in this regard, since it absorbs less water. The thermal conductivity and frost resistance of these materials are almost the same.

Density is in the range from 300 to 1200 kg/m3, which allows the developer to accurately select the block for their needs. Manufacturers produce heat-insulating (density from 300 to 500 kg / m3), structural and heat-insulating (500-900 kg / m3) and structural (1000-1200 kg / m3) blocks in several thicknesses - 10, 15, 20 and 30 cm.

This allows you to make the wall warm without additional costs for laying insulation and its protection. To do this, it is necessary to lay a thinner heat-insulating block (15 cm) in the outer row of masonry, and make the inner layer of denser structural and heat-insulating blocks 30 cm thick.

Thanks to the ideal geometry, a do-it-yourself block house without the involvement of professional masons is built quickly and requires minimal finishing in the form of putty or decorative plaster.

The cost of these materials starts from 3000 rubles. for 1 m3. In their reviews, the owners of houses made of lightweight cellular blocks highlight the low cost of construction and minimal heating costs.

Expanded clay blocks

Without abandoning the use of solid bricks, builders invented in the last century. This composite material consists of expanded clay gravel (pellets of burnt and porous clay) and a cement mortar that holds them together.

The material turned out to be quite warm (density from 500 kg / m3) and very durable (you can build houses up to 3 floors high).

For the price, the expanded clay concrete block looks attractive (from 2900 rubles / m3). The environmental friendliness of this building material also deserves attention. The absence of synthetic and polymer additives, good vapor transmission allow it to be fully used in housing construction.

Shell rock blocks

In the era of cheap cargo transportation, the shell rock was a serious competitor to the expanded clay block. This "free" material, which had only to be cut out of the marine sedimentary massif and loaded into wagons, has become "biting" today.

Judge for yourself, the price per cube with delivery to the central regions of Russia reaches 5,000 rubles. Coupled with the fragility and poor geometry of the stone, the developer can only rely on its excellent environmental friendliness.

Arbolite blocks

The main components of this material are wood chips and sawdust (4:1 ratio). They not only make the block warm and light, but also reinforce it, increasing its strength and crack resistance.

The binder, as in the case of expanded clay blocks, here is the cement mortar. The density is in the range from 500 to 850 kg/m3. From it you can build low-rise buildings without using a reinforced belt. This material is sufficiently elastic, therefore, without the formation of cracks, it can withstand the load from floor slabs. The breathability of wood concrete blocks is high and quite comparable with wood.

Its low density speaks eloquently about the good heat and sound insulating qualities of wood concrete. Impregnation with cement makes wood chips durable and resistant to decay. Finishing the walls of wood concrete does not require the use of a reinforced mesh, since the rough surface of the material perfectly holds the plaster. The price of wood concrete blocks starts at an average of 4,000 rubles per 1 m3.

Teplosten blocks

The developer's dream of a masonry material, which simultaneously contains a load-bearing part, insulation and exterior finish, has found its embodiment in Teplosten blocks.

By design, it is a three-layer "sandwich". Its outer and inner layers are made of expanded clay concrete, and inside there is foam. Dissimilar materials in the contact zone protect the fiberglass rods installed inside the block from delamination.

On the outer face of the three-layer block, we see a textured pattern. Having built a new house from this material, the owner can only paint the walls in the desired color, without resorting to expensive decorative plaster.

Appearance of the Teplosten block

The main disadvantage of Teplosten blocks is obvious. This is a foam plastic enclosed between layers of expanded clay concrete. It does not allow water vapor to pass through, so without forced ventilation the house will be damp. Manufacturers solve this problem by releasing special blocks in which there is a vent with a grate.

If the owner of the future house from Teplosten blocks does not take care of the ventilation problem in time, then the foam plastic can give him another unpleasant surprise. Consider the physics of the process of diffusion of water vapor through a wall. Having met an insurmountable obstacle in the form of foam plastic on its way, water vapor will condense in the inner layer of expanded clay. This will lead to wetting of the walls with all the ensuing uncomfortable consequences for living.

The cost of Teplosten blocks starts from 7,000 rubles/m3. Despite the rather solid price, let's not forget that such a wall does not require insulation and rough finishing.

cinder blocks

They were produced in the 80s of the last century as an inexpensive alternative to scarce bricks. Today, cinder blocks are rarely used in residential construction. The large weight and high thermal conductivity of cinder block walls require insulation with mineral or ecowool slabs (10-15 cm) and high-quality finishes.

The cost of cinder blocks offered today to private developers is low and ranges from 2300 to 3000 rubles per 1 m3.

Houses made of logs, timber, wooden frame

At the same time, you should know that a warm enough house for permanent residence can only be built from a log with a diameter of at least 40 centimeters. Today, the standard thickness of the walls of a log house is from 24 to 32 cm, which does not meet the requirements of thermal engineering standards. Therefore, in order not to spend significant amounts on heating, a wooden frame must be additionally insulated.

The cost of 1 m3 of rounded logs prepared for laying in 2016 is from 7,000 to 10,000 rubles. The cost of dry profiled timber is even higher and starts from 10,000 rubles per cubic meter.

For glued profiled timber, which gives minimal shrinkage and is practically not subject to warping, sellers ask from 22 to 26 thousand rubles. Forecasts of market specialists indicate that in 2017 a price jump for this material is not expected.

Finishing a brief review of materials for the construction of wooden houses, a few words should be said about the frame technology.

It is difficult to call it high-speed, since the degree of factory readiness here is practically “zero”. At the facility, builders assemble a frame from individual beams and boards, spending no less time on this than masons laying blocks. But in terms of reliability and durability, a house built using frame technology is not much inferior to capital structures made of wood.

There are no problems with energy saving in such housing either. The customer can choose any thickness of insulation, without spending money on external insulation and finishing, as in the case of block or log construction.

Since no one regards the frame in cubes, then we will have to compare the cost of 1m2 of a frame wall with the cost of a log and timber wall.

The main elements of the frame - racks, board, mineral wool, vapor barrier, wooden blockhouse or DSP slab (outside), drywall or lining (inside) are considered quickly and simply, amounting to a total of 1,200 rubles / m2.

At the same time, the cheapest wall made of logs with a thickness of 32 cm will cost you 2,500 rubles per 1 m2. Do not forget that it will still have to be insulated, spending from 250 to 300 rubles. Thus, at the price of materials, the “framework” noticeably outperforms the log house.

With the same heat-insulating ability, the wooden wall of a frame house turns out to be cheaper than a block one (a frame with 150 mm mineral wool versus 40 cm thick aerated concrete blocks + 5 cm mineral wool).

SIP panel house

This material cannot be called optimal from the point of view of environmental friendliness, although the manufacturers of such buildings are trying to prove the opposite.

The main advantage is the high speed of construction. It is difficult to categorize these designs as cheap.

The cost of 1 m2 of a sandwich plate, depending on the thickness of the insulation (10,15,20 cm), ranges from 900 to 1500 rubles. For comparison, the cost of 1 m2 of a gas block wall 40 cm thick is about 1200 rubles.

LSTK (light steel structures)

The undivided dominance of drywall technology has prompted engineers to create a more durable analogue for assembling the frame of low-rise buildings. So a new technology was born. It was based on light steel structures (LSTS).

The assembly of buildings from a steel profile is similar to the installation of wooden "frameworks". At the same time, LSTK houses surpass them in terms of durability, biostability and fire safety. The speed of construction of such housing is lower than when using SIP panels, but higher than that of block and log construction.

The high cost of the metal is the main drawback of the LSTK technology. The average cost of materials for the construction of 1 m2 of a metal profile wall is about 2,400 rubles.

concrete panels

Large-sized expanded clay panels are rarely used these days. The main reason for the low demand is the minimum choice of sizes and layout solutions.

Expanded clay concrete wall panel

However, one can quickly build a new house from them compared to using bricks, timber or cellular blocks (the price of 1m2 of a 34 cm thick panel does not exceed 1,300 rubles). To this price you need to add the cost of insulation (150-200 rubles per 1m2). Without it, the wall will not meet modern thermal standards.

Summing up our review, we will give brief practical recommendations.

1. Among the most popular budget options for low-rise construction are gas and foam blocks, expanded clay concrete blocks and a wooden frame.

Ceramic blocks, which were included in the category of expensive materials, have fallen in price in most regions of Russia today. Therefore, we will also rank them in the category of budget solutions for private construction. Excellent heat-insulating qualities, impeccable environmental friendliness, a large selection of standard sizes - all these positive qualities of ceramic blocks deserve your attention.

2. Arbolite blocks occupy a higher price step. The house from them turns out warm and durable. It creates a comfortable microclimate and comfortable acoustics. The disadvantages of wood concrete should include the dependence of quality on the production capabilities of a particular manufacturer. Not all companies producing this material use high-quality wood chips, adding a large amount of sawdust and substandard woodworking waste to the feedstock.

3. Blocks Teplosten and LSTK at first glance cause sympathy. Houses of them are built quickly and not expensively. At the same time, many developers have reasonable doubts about their reliability and environmental friendliness, which does not have the best effect on the popularity of these materials.

4. Installation of a house from SIP panels can rightly be called the fastest and most budget option. It is difficult to attribute these designs to the category of popular solutions, since there are serious doubts about their environmental friendliness and reliability.

5. A log and profiled timber, as a first approximation, look quite budgetary. However, here it is necessary to take into account the additional costs of insulation and regular antiseptic treatment of the walls. In addition, the quality of log cabins strongly depends on the quality of the material used and the qualifications of the installers. The main advantages of round logs and profiled timber are environmental friendliness and aesthetics.

6. Glued laminated timber is an elite building material. Beautiful and environmentally friendly houses are being built from it, which cannot be classified as budget houses. The lack of shrinkage and high assembly speed please developers who have chosen this option.

Concluding our review, we note that when looking for the best option for building a new house, you need to:

  • Find out the availability and price of the material you like in your region.
  • Study the reviews of the owners of houses built from it.
  • Get as much information as possible about suppliers, manufacturers and contractors offering construction services from the material you are about to buy.
  • Visit construction exhibitions in your region, production workshops and facilities under construction. Here you will receive valuable and objective first-hand information.

The future owner of his own cottage has to solve many problems and make responsible choices more than once. For example, it is very important to accurately determine what to build a house for permanent residence from. After all, the comfort and safety of a home directly depends on the reliability and quality of the main building material.

How to choose building materials for building walls at home

When choosing materials for the construction of a private cottage, it is recommended:

  • Gather information.
    Carefully and in detail study the characteristics of not one or two, but several types of materials used in low-rise housing construction.
  • Check out the reviews.
    Look on the forums for real messages from people who built houses from certain materials, live in them and can draw some conclusions.
  • Chat with experts.
    Visit specialized exhibitions and facilities that are under construction. There you can get firsthand reliable information about the building materials of interest.
  • Find responsible contractors.
    Pay special attention to the selection of the manufacturer of the selected material, as well as the search for a reliable and experienced construction service provider.

Fig.1. In addition to good building material, you will also need reliable and professional performers.

Basic materials for private housing construction

Consider the most common options.

Wood

Natural wood is actively used in the construction of houses for year-round use. Manufacturers offer several types of such building materials.

Regular solid timber

This is a material of natural moisture, edged on four sides. Its main advantage is low cost. The main disadvantages are shape defects and significant shrinkage, during which quite deep cracks can appear. Cottages for permanent residence are not built from this material.

Dry profiled timber

This material is subjected to better processing and pre-drying. Work surfaces have a system of joints consisting of spikes and grooves. Profiled timber provides better thermal protection than conventional timber, and also gives less shrinkage. But it also cracks, costs more, and requires special storage conditions.

Glued profiled timber


Fig.2. Glued laminated timber is one of the most elite materials in wooden housing construction.

A common question from customers: “Which timber is more suitable for building a cottage?” Everything depends on the goal. If you need to quickly build a high-quality, durable, warm and reliable house, it is better to choose glued beams. Arguments for this decision:

  • One of the main advantages is minimal shrinkage. Due to the stability of geometric parameters, it becomes possible to reduce construction time, since finishing work can be carried out immediately after the assembly of the house kit.
  • Another advantage of glued beams: the length of beams from it can reach 12 m. Therefore, there is no need to provide intermediate supports in large rooms.
  • Additional advantages are the high strength of the walls, the minimum cost of finishing them, and low thermal conductivity.
Houses made of glued beams form an elite category in wooden housing construction. They are warm and extremely comfortable. The appearance of such cottages is only admirable, although it is not required to invest a lot in decoration to create such an effect.

Hand-cut log

The main advantages of chopped logs are low thermal conductivity, good breathability, and durability. Log walls also do not require expensive finishing, they fully retain the unique natural aesthetics of natural wood. A house made of hand-cut logs is beautiful, safe, reliable and comfortable to live in.

The main disadvantage of such a log is that it will not be possible to quickly build a house from it. The manual cutting process is laborious and time consuming. In addition, the log house must stand for at least a year until the shrinkage is completed and the geometric parameters stabilize.

We build high-quality solid houses from hand-cut logs, including those with a frame made of massive coniferous timber.


Fig.3. Long, expensive and completely handmade. It's all about houses made of hand-cut logs.

rounded log

Houses made of logs are also aesthetic and durable. To obtain this material, high-quality heartwood is used and precise machining is used. Therefore, they do not need to be finished inside and out.

The disadvantages of the material are cracking, flammability, the likelihood of bending and twisting. Among the shortcomings, one can also name the fact that a rounded log blackens more intensively in the sun when it dries than a hand-made log house. In addition, it absorbs moisture to a greater extent.

Brick

It is durable, strong, frost-resistant material. At one time, it was considered the best choice for construction, but after the advent of new building technologies, the situation has changed. Today, brick houses are built infrequently. There are several reasons. This is a high density and, accordingly, a large mass of bricks, because of which it is necessary to build an expensive foundation. The disadvantages also include high cost, low masonry speed, high thermal conductivity, susceptibility to damage during careless delivery.

Building blocks

Cellular concrete blocks are similar in structure to porous chocolate. They are lighter than bricks, environmentally friendly, inexpensive. Aerated concrete is considered a more durable option in this category, so it is used to build the base of the house and load-bearing walls.

The advantages of a block house are their relatively low cost, as well as a higher speed of building walls than a brick. The advantages include the fact that under the walls of concrete blocks it is not necessary to build a complex foundation, which means that construction costs are reduced. The disadvantages are: the need for high costs for exterior and interior decoration, poor fixation of standard fasteners in the walls, high hygroscopicity (for aerated concrete).

Frame technology

A distinctive feature of a frame house is that the load-bearing and enclosing functions of its structure are delimited. The frame is a rigid frame made of wood or metal. But the walls themselves are relatively light, and this makes it possible to reduce the load on the foundation. In Russia, more wood is used in the construction of frame houses than in Europe, so these cottages are more environmentally friendly and comfortable to live in.


Fig.4. From the outside, frame houses are sometimes difficult to distinguish from brick or stone houses due to the corresponding facade panels.

Canadian technology involves the use of SIP panels, which have their pros and cons. The first include good thermal protection, energy efficiency, low cost. To the second - the fragility of the structure, the non-environmental friendliness of some heaters.

Comparison of building materials used in residential low-rise housing construction

Comparison of the main characteristics of five popular building materials:

CharacteristicsWoodBrickBlocksFrame walls
StrengthThe most durable wood material - glued beamsIt is a reliable material that can withstand high loads.Cellular concrete is not strong enough for multi-storey constructionLess durable than other building materials, not resistant to hurricanes
Density (kg-m3)500 1200-1800 600-1000 -
Environmental friendlinessLog and timber - completely natural, breathable materialsBrick can have a high background radiationThe most environmentally friendly material of this group is aerated concrete. He is second only to the tree in this indicator.There are synthetic materials in the walls of many frame buildings. Air and moisture exchange through such surfaces is difficult
Thermal conductivityLow. With an appropriate thickness, a house made of logs or timber perfectly retains heatHigh. Brick walls require high-quality insulation, otherwise you will have to spend a lot of money on heatingHouses made of foam concrete and gas silicate blocks warm up 30% faster than brick onesFrame houses for year-round use warm up quickly and keep heat well
PriceThe most expensive wood material is glued beams. Round logs are much cheaperBrick is an expensive material. It also requires a lot of money to finish the walls from it.Block materials are relatively inexpensiveFrame walls cost less than block, brick, wooden
Curious fact! Professionals working in the field of low-rise housing construction have noticed an interesting pattern. People who choose wooden building materials are distinguished by a calm and balanced character. They are democratic, think ahead and, as a rule, are successful in their profession. For such people, the word "ecology" is not a hackneyed cliché, but a credo and lifestyle.

If you also prefer eco-friendly prefabricated wooden houses, order their construction from Garden House!













Who today does not dream of a big country house? But before you decide to make your dream come true and start building a home ownership, you should think carefully about the purposes for which the future construction is planned. If you need a dacha for a seasonal stay, this is one thing, but building a house for permanent residence is a completely different construction format. And the most exciting question: from what to build a house inexpensively and efficiently. Let's try to understand our article.

Source domastroika.com

The first thing you need to decide when deciding to build your own house for permanent residence is the building material, the choice of which depends on a huge number of related factors:

  • strength and durability;
  • microclimate inside residential premises;
  • thermal conductivity and sound insulation;
  • frost resistance;
  • thermal insulation and moisture resistance.

What materials for suburban construction does the modern market offer, and what is the best way to build a house for permanent residence?

Of course, you need to choose the material for individual construction, taking into account all of the above parameters, but The main criterion is considered to be strength, since it is she who forms the structure of the building and affects the load-bearing function of the walls.

When choosing what to build a house for permanent residence from, all materials can be divided into four main groups:

  • brick and stone;
  • lightweight concrete materials;
  • wood;
  • chipboard panels.

Construction of a house for permanent residence from bricks

Brick buildings are the most massive structures. They perfectly resist the effects of various natural factors and, at the same time, have an attractive appearance. However, in order to build your own house, from the most seemingly popular material - brick, you will have to incur no small financial costs.

Source sk-mera.ru

The main advantages of a brick house are the high strength of the material. And in terms of its bearing capacity, a wall erected from this type of building materials is almost as good as concrete. Such characteristics are ideal for both low-rise suburban construction and for the construction of multi-storey buildings. In addition, a brick house will not burn, rot or shrink.

Only, in terms of maintaining energy efficiency, walls made of ceramic or silicate bricks lag far behind other building materials. In order to ensure sufficient energy efficiency for a private house, a brick wall must have a minimum thickness of 120 cm. It becomes clear that no one will build a "bunker" with such walls for permanent year-round living, so today more and more often brick is used as a facing material.

Another important disadvantage of building a brick house is the high cost of the material, so it is important to correctly calculate your financial capabilities, otherwise the construction may take a very long time.

Summarizing all of the above, we can say that the main The advantages of brick as a building material are:

  • the possibility of long-term operation of the built house;
  • high frost resistance;
  • exact geometry of products;
  • good combination with any type of masonry mortar;
  • high strength;
  • aesthetic appearance.

However, brick has many disadvantages:

  1. Low moisture resistance some types of material. For example, silicate brick strongly absorbs water, this can be clearly seen when it acquires a dark shade during rain. This quality greatly affects the humidity inside the room. In this regard, silicate brick is not used for laying basements and basements; you should not use silicate brick when building a house in regions with high air humidity.
  2. High thermal conductivity. To achieve positive characteristics, it is necessary to resort to additional costs for thermal insulation of walls or their thickening.
  3. High product weight. The brick has a large mass, which makes the structure heavier and creates an even greater load on the foundation. To solve such a problem, it is necessary to build a stronger and more solid foundation, and this further increases construction costs.
  4. High material cost.

So, it turns out that brick has significant drawbacks, so before making it the main material in the construction of a private house, you should think carefully.

brick houses

Source comfortoria.ru

Building a house from concrete blocks

Today, among building materials, brick significantly reduces its position, giving way to modern building blocks.

Affordable price is the main reason for choosing blocks. At the same time, building a house for permanent residence from blocks is not only cheaper, but also much faster, since such a large-sized material can replace from 4 to 14 ordinary bricks in quantity.

Today, the building materials market offers block types:

  • gas blocks;
  • foam blocks;
  • cinder blocks;
  • expanded clay concrete blocks;
  • wood concrete;
  • shell rock blocks.

Let's take a closer look at each type.

Gas and foam blocks

Gas and foam blocks have the same technical characteristics and are great for the construction of low-rise buildings. Their only difference is in the internal structure of the material.

gas blocks are made from a homogeneous mixture of sand, cement and lime with the addition of a special powder - a blowing agent, in order to achieve small through channels inside the block.

Source dizajio.com.ua

foam blocks, on the contrary, they have closed pores inside the material. Such a structure is achieved during production by adding special substances - foaming agents to the concrete solution. It is worth noting that such production allows you to increase the quality of foam blocks, creating additional energy-saving opportunities for the material and significantly reducing its weight. Also, unlike a gas block, the open channels of which conduct moisture well, foam blocks do not need additional protection from moisture.

They produce blocks of various formats and thicknesses, which allows the developer to choose the best material for individual construction without extra costs for additional insulation. Good geometric data make it possible to build houses with a complex structure.

Also, foam blocks and gas blocks do not need complex finishing, this can be done using putty or decorative plaster.

In addition to all these advantages, a weighty argument in choosing this particular material for construction will be its low cost. Average price in the construction market 1 m 3 is about 3 thousand rubles.

Among the disadvantages of foam and gas blocks can be identified the following characteristics of these materials:

  • fragility;
  • high water permeability (for gas blocks);
  • mandatory external and internal decoration of the house;
  • the presence of chemical elements in the composition.

houses from gas blocks and foam blocks from construction companies represented at the exhibition of houses Low-Rise Country.

Cinder blocks and expanded clay concrete blocks

Cinder blocks are also inexpensive building materials, however, due to the too high thermal conductivity of the erected walls, they require additional insulation. In addition, the cinder block has a lot of weight. It is these shortcomings that can explain the fact that consumers prefer expanded clay concrete blocks.

Source action-stroy.ru

As positive characteristics of cinder block builders provide:

  • fire resistance;
  • low cost;
  • high thermal insulation;
  • resistance to fungus and mold damage;
  • long service life of the built house.

The main disadvantages of cinder block are:

  • brittleness of the material;
  • low moisture resistance;
  • low sound insulation;
  • the need for interior and exterior decoration of the house.

Expanded clay block products, at the same cost, are less thermally conductive, more durable and environmentally friendly material.

Expanded clay blocks are a material consisting of expanded clay gravel (the result of special firing of clay) and cement mortar. Such raw materials have high strength indicators and are designed for the construction of individual houses up to 3 floors. At the same time, the construction process does not take much time. In addition, expanded clay concrete is a fairly warm and environmentally friendly building material, as it does not contain synthetic additives.

Good vapor permeability creates an optimal balance of humidity in the living room.

Prices for expanded clay blocks quite acceptable, 1m 3 will cost about 3 thousand rubles.

And also, on our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects houses from expanded clay blocks from construction companies represented at the exhibition of houses Low-Rise Country.

Arbolit

The constituent components of wood concrete blocks are wood chips and cement mortar with special additives. This composition allows you to get a warm and light block.

Source woodh.ru

In terms of its density, arbolite allows the construction of buildings with a small number of storeys, while its elasticity, it is able to withstand, among other things, floor slabs.

Such material breathes well, is very environmentally friendly, has excellent heat and sound insulation.

The disadvantages of arbolite include:

  1. High rate of moisture absorption. A house made of wood concrete blocks requires additional protection from moisture, which means that you will have to invest in insulating and specialized moisture-repellent finishing materials.
  2. The uneven surface of the block leads to some difficulties in the construction of walls, and also causes a large consumption of concrete mortar.

Also, a significant disadvantage of wood concrete is often considered a large amount of low-quality material in the construction market. In view of the fact that the production of blocks does not require specialized equipment, they are often produced by an artisanal method, using non-certified chemical additives and violations of production technology. All this causes a deterioration in the quality of finished raw materials, so you need to buy wood concrete only from trusted sellers and manufacturers.

Prices for the purchase of wood concrete start from 4 thousand rubles per 1m 3.

You can also see the most popular projects on our website. houses from wood concrete from construction companies represented at the exhibition of houses Low-Rise Country.

Shell rock blocks

This type of material is the most expensive among the blocks and will cost at least 5 thousand rubles per 1 m 3. At the same time, the technique of obtaining raw materials from the marine sedimentary massif additionally makes the shell rock fragile.

Advantages of shell rock blocks:

  • sound absorption;
  • good thermal insulation;
  • durability;
  • good vapor permeability;
  • environmental friendliness.

In addition, the shell rock has a number of exceptional properties determined by its nature. So, the material during its formation is impregnated with sea salt and absorbs a large amount of iodine. The presence of these substances in the composition of raw materials endow the house from it with healing properties. Also, it is thanks to iodine that shell rock walls protect very well from radiation.

The cons of the shell rock can be considered:
  1. The need for strengthening in the case of building a house of more than two floors with the help of special armored belts.
  2. The absence of unified forms of blocks (it is practically impossible to find two blocks of shell rock that are identical in shape).
  3. The need for additional protection of the structure from moisture.
  4. The material, due to its fragility, requires care during transportation, as well as unloading or unloading.

Source recon-stroi.ru

Construction of wooden houses for permanent residence

As for wood, there are two options for building materials:

  1. log;
  2. timber;

A house for permanent residence made of wood has a minimal load on the foundation, which allows you to save money already at the very first stage of construction.

An important point when choosing a building material is also considered the fact that it is possible to build wooden houses regardless of the season and in any weather.

Timber house

A modern timber will allow you to build a neat individual house in any style. It has good geometric parameters, rectangular or square section and smooth, very even sides. Houses made of timber give minimal shrinkage, the manufacture of a log house does not require the use of special construction equipment, and the aesthetic data of the material make it possible to do without external and internal decoration, and thus save on finishing work.

Source strojka-doma.ru

The beam has a large number of advantages:

  • environmental friendliness;
  • aesthetics;
  • the efficiency of the construction of the building;
  • high level of sound insulation and good thermal conductivity;
  • strength and reliability of the structure;
  • the possibility of installation at any time of the year;
  • does not require the construction of a bulky, expensive foundation;
  • does not require decorative finishing;
  • positive, healing properties from wood.

However, the beam also has disadvantages:

  1. The need for additional material processing. The main, common disadvantage of wood products is its susceptibility to moisture and insects. In addition, over time, it has the properties of cracking and rotting, thereby losing its original aesthetic appearance, so the tree must be constantly treated with special substances.
  2. High fire hazard of the material. Any wood is highly flammable, and because of this, it requires additional protection by treatment with fire-retardant compounds.
  3. Requires additional costs for heat and waterproofing.
  4. Long term shrinkage. Despite a slight shrinkage, a private house will sag within six months. In this case, cracks may occur in the walls during shrinkage.

On our website you can see the most popular projects houses from double timber, glued laminated timber and profiled timber from construction companies represented at the exhibition of houses Low-Rise Country.

log house

Log buildings are classics of wooden houses. In addition to the traditional Russian hut, modern building technologies allow you to build a log house of any configuration, from a small Finnish house to a cozy Art Nouveau cottage.

Source kirpich174.ru

Modern building logs are 100% natural and environmentally friendly, which provides excellent natural ventilation of the room.

As in the case of timber, no cost for a massive foundation is required.

Durability, reliability and beautiful appearance are also the main characteristics of a log house.

The advantage is the rapid warming up of a house made of wood, because this significantly saves heating costs.

The availability and lightness of the material make it possible to build a comfortable wooden house as soon as possible.

To the minuses of the log, like any wooden material, include:

  • susceptibility to decay;
  • strong and prolonged shrinkage;
  • fire hazard of the material;
  • additional costs for insulation and waterproofing of the structure.

Today, the construction market offers two types of logs, chopped or rounded.

rounded log- a product of the industrial processing of lumber. It has a lower price, does not require additional finishing and looks quite attractive.

Chopped logs they are more expensive due to their manual processing, but they have greater strength.

Beautiful log house Source tr.decorexpro.com

When deciding which specific construction technology to choose, you should pay attention to two aspects:

  1. When building a house from timber and logs of industrial processing, there is absolutely no need to cut recesses (bowls) for greater stability of the structure.
  2. If you choose to build a house from hand-cut logs, then you have to pay for the very expensive work of a professional cutter (a specialist who cuts bowls - special recesses for connecting logs into a log house).

Building a house from a log can hardly be called quite affordable. So, cost of 1 m3 rounded log ranges from 7 to 10 thousand rubles, and chopped is much higher.

Also, on our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects houses from hand-cut logs and rounded logs from construction companies represented at the exhibition of houses Low-Rise Country.

Construction of a frame house for permanent residence


A brief description and description of the main pros and cons will be made between country houses from the following materials:

  • bricks;
  • sawn shell rock;
  • foam blocks;
  • gas blocks;
  • reinforced concrete on fixed formwork;
  • timber or round logs.

Country house made of bricks

To build a brick house, a solid foundation is needed, either a deep-buried type or a slab type. This is due to the large load of the entire structure. The load primarily depends on the weight of the building, and masonry bricks cannot be called easy. 1 cube of brick weighs on average 1200-1800 kg. To make it more clear, 5 square meters of a wall 25 cm thick will weigh about 2 tons. Considering that the foundation is massive, the financial costs of construction increase dramatically.

Brick in its technological range is the "smallest" masonry material. If, for example, it is compared with a shell rock or foam block. Based on this, for the laying of load-bearing walls, a significant amount of binder, that is, a cement-sand mortar, will be required. This also entails significant financial costs.

The cost of masonry is a very conditional indicator, since it all depends on the desired result. For example, you can save money and buy grade 2 bricks. Considering that the brick initially has discrepancies and small irregularities, you can order dirty masonry from the construction team and in this case save a little. The result is load-bearing walls that require mandatory plastering. This is where the catch lies, the money saved on grade 2 bricks and dirty masonry will go completely to plastering work.

Brick houses have good heat and sound insulation, good durability

The second option is when a top-grade brick is purchased and a clean masonry is ordered from specialists for jointing. Initially, more money is spent than in the first case, but as a result, load-bearing walls are obtained that do not require external facade decoration at all. Plaster only finishes the inner surface of the walls.

At first glance, it may seem that brick construction is a very costly undertaking. However, a brick house has its own set of positive qualities. Not bad, but not the best thermal insulation and sound insulation, good seismic resistance, high strength and long service life of the building, about 100 years or more.

Attention! Given the high strength of the main walls, absolutely any type of roof can be mounted on them, so you can already try to save on roofing material.

Houses from sawn shell rock (cauldron)

Construction of a house from sawn shell rock (cauldron) is not available in any region. The main quarries and mines where kotelets are mined are located in the southern regions. According to its structure, the cauldron is a stone with a regular rectangular shape, dimensions 39x19x20 cm. The structure of the stone is relatively porous, but the cauldron has fairly good strength and low thermal conductivity.

To build a house from a cauldron, as in the case of a brick, a good capital foundation is needed. Therefore, choosing this material, we advise you to immediately calculate the cost of pouring a monolithic reinforced concrete foundation.

Considering that the cauldron is almost 3.5-4 times larger in volume than a brick, much less binder cement-sand mortar will be required for masonry. Here the boiler outperforms the brick, however, the walls of sawn shell rock will have to be plastered. A variant with a fine classic masonry from a cauldron, not very suitable for residential buildings. Clean masonry with jointing from a cauldron can only be used for the construction of non-residential buildings, for example, a garage or a fence.

The load-bearing walls from the boiler are “warm”, have good sound insulation, below average waterproofing and excellent strength. Boiler walls, like brick walls, have high strength and seismic resistance, which allows them to make roofs of any design, type and from any materials.

Country house from foam blocks

The load-bearing walls of a country house made of foam blocks are the warmest when compared among the masonry stone. The thermal conductivity of the foam block is only 0.2 - 0.4 W / (m * K), and for example, for the same brick, it is about 0.8 W / (m * K). The lower the thermal conductivity, the less cold penetrates the housing in winter at sub-zero temperatures.

At a cost, a foam block is about 2 times cheaper than a brick and 1.5 times cheaper than a boiler, if we compare the price for 1 m / cu. At the same time, even less masonry bonding mortar is required for the construction of walls than when using a boiler. This is due to the large dimensions of the foam blocks 20x30x60 cm. As a binder solution for foam blocks, not a cement-sand mortar is used, but an adhesive mass, which makes it possible to obtain a thin seam between adjacent stones with a thickness of only 5 mm.

For the construction of main walls from foam blocks, it is not at all necessary to make a massive foundation. Yes, the foundation must be solid and made of reinforced concrete, however, the foundation strip can be laid only 90-100 cm, that is, below the freezing point of the soil for the middle lane. This is due to the fact that the foam block has a light weight compared to brick. 1 m3 of foam blocks weighs about 600 kg.

Any medal has a reverse side, the foam block is no exception. Possessing good thermal insulation and sound insulation, this stone has poor waterproofing. The structure of the foam block is very porous, not that it passes water, but it absorbs moisture like a sponge. Due to poor quality, the walls of a country house made of foam blocks must be plastered, after which, in most cases, they are puttied with waterproof embossed facade putty.

It is worth mentioning another drawback. Compared to brick or koteltsovy capital walls, walls made of foam blocks have less strength. That is, in general, the building is earthquake-resistant and durable, but the choice of design and materials for the manufacture of the roof is limited.

Advice. Most often, a light roof is made from foam blocks on cottages from metal tiles or flexible bituminous tiles. You will have to forget about the classic ceramic tiles forever.

Country cottage from gas blocks

The gas block is the same masonry stone as the foam block. The thermal conductivity of the gas block is approximately 0.2 W / (m * K), which also does not emit this masonry material. In general, the gas block is as good in terms of thermal and sound insulation qualities as the foam block, however, the gas block has greater strength and better waterproofing.

A house made of gas blocks is stronger and more resistant to moisture than a house made of foam blocks

The whole point lies in the difference in the composition of masonry materials. Foam blocks are made from cement, sand and water, and aluminum powder is used as a foaming agent, which, in reaction with water (H2O) and oxygen (O2), produces a reaction in the form of a huge amount of oxygen bubbles. These bubbles form the porous structure of the foam block. Two more components have been introduced into the composition of the gas block: quartz sand, which increases the strength of the structure, and lime, which increases the strength of the connection between ordinary and quartz sand particles in the structure.

Considering the increased strength of the material, almost any type of roof can be mounted on the load-bearing walls made of gas blocks, and the outer walls can not be plastered with a cement-sand mortar, but simply puttyed with facade waterproof putty. There is only one minus for gas blocks - this is a high price compared to foam blocks.

Country house made of reinforced concrete on fixed formwork

The construction technology is relatively new, it is no more than 15 years old. The construction technology is as follows. On the surface of the fabricated strip foundation, a fixed formwork is installed, consisting of two sheets of dense polystyrene foam (polystyrene). No supports or formwork struts are required. The distance of 20 cm between two parallel sheets of expanded polystyrene is set by special plastic holders, which are fixed to the sheets.

The height of the foam sheets is not more than 25 cm. Having thus installed the formwork around the entire perimeter, it is reinforced by passing reinforcement or reinforcing cages between the sheets of foam plastic and the entire formwork is poured with liquid concrete. After that, they begin to install the second row of formwork, etc. In one day, 2-3 rows of formwork are poured with concrete in this way.

The advantage of this technology is that the walls are the most durable, which is important for areas located in an unstable seismic zone. In addition, a record-breaking construction period stands out. The walls of an ordinary one-story country house are raised in 7-9 working days. Another advantage is that the process of manufacturing load-bearing walls takes place in parallel with their internal and external insulation.

Attention! The downside of the construction technology on fixed formwork is the high consumption of by no means cheap liquid concrete and reinforcing elements.

Country houses made of timber or logs

For the construction of a house from a bar, a bar with a section of 100x150 mm or 150x150 mm is mainly used. And for the construction of a house from rounded logs, logs with a diameter of 15 to 25 cm are used. It must be said right away that the construction of a wooden house, in comparison with housing from any of the above-described stones, is much cheaper.

Timber houses require mandatory regular treatment from moisture

Saving starts from the very beginning, that is, from the foundation. For a wooden country house, it is not at all necessary to make a reinforced concrete foundation; it is quite possible to get by with the manufacture of a pile-screw or columnar type of foundation. The installation of walls itself also does not imply the use of any kind of binder solution or glue. The fastening of the timber to each other in the wall structure is carried out on dowels, and the walls of rounded logs are mounted using chopped or sawn cups.

The catch of such cheap and environmentally friendly walls lies in their increased vulnerability to moisture. And if there are a huge number of ways to protect the same walls from foam blocks from moisture, for example, plaster, putty, etc., then to protect wood from decay, there is only a small set of liquid emulsions that need to be impregnated with wood before the construction of load-bearing walls . Another disadvantage of wooden housing is the increased risk of fire, which will require you to fork out a lot when doing electrical wiring, which is more demanding than when building stone walls.

We have no right to specifically recommend or impose this or that building material or technology. Everyone chooses according to their personal preferences and based on their own financial capabilities. In this article, we only tried to give a brief description of the various construction technologies, and you decide for yourself what is more promising for you.

What material is better to build a house from - video

Since you are reading this article, a vacation outside the city on your site is attractive to you. A country house for this, of course, is necessary. It is highly desirable to build it simple, cheap and. For the sake of saving not only money and their labor, but also land. In this publication you will find information on how to build a country house with your own hands, perhaps easier, faster, easier and cheaper. It is also desirable that the ergonomics of the house allows you to wait out a long bad weather in it without experiencing discomfort, and the design of the building makes it possible to use various design solutions for its external and internal design.

Where to start

The first question that needs to be solved when planning to build a country house is what to build it from? Where - it is already known, the site will not be moved anywhere. According to the material, soil at the construction site and weather conditions, the design of the house is selected, a ready-made project is developed or selected for it, and then - estimates, purchases, and for business. We will start with the choice of material.

What to build from?

Since we are interested in options that are easy to implement, log houses are also excluded from consideration: it is very difficult to build them on your own. In addition, such houses are sensitive to seasonal ground movements and therefore require a foundation no less reliable than a fully buried tape one (from 0.6 m below the standard freezing depth of the NGP, counting along the bottom of the tape). The foundation of full penetration must stand to give its own shrinkage, at least from the end of summer until full spring warmth next year. The same endurance is required for insulated slab foundations, for example. swedish plate. True, there is a type of foundation for wooden houses that does not require a technological break (see below), but the timber or log structure itself must shrink for a year before it is ready for finishing. So a log or log house will be disproportionately expensive (from approx. 12,000 rubles / sq. m) and difficult to build on your own.

The same situation arises with brick houses and. Ultimately, the construction of a small country house made of brick, foam block or timber turns out to be appropriate only in very small areas, when an extremely compact structure is required. In this case, the house is built 2-storey; brick and lumber technologies allow an unprepared, but attentive and accurate builder to build a house on 2 floors. Examples of the layout of compact 2-storey brick and timber houses are shown in Fig.:

Note: it is easier for a novice builder to build a foam block house than a brick, timber or log house. The construction of a country house from foam / gas blocks makes sense if the cottage is visited all year round - no additional insulation is needed and there will be less heating costs.

The easiest and fastest way to build a small house is to assemble it from a prefabricated panel house kit or structurally insulated panels (SIP). A 20x20-foot (6x6 m) prefabricated house is set up in a week by a pair of chimpanzees of average mental ability trained according to the instructions for the kit. No joke, there were such experiences. But, alas, the cost of construction. At current prices, somewhere from 18,000 rubles / sq. m. Without foundation.

A SIP house will cost less, approx. from 15,000 rubles/sq. m with a foundation on geoscrews (see below). However, SIP structures are held on locks between the panels. In order for a SIP house to be completely reliable, it must have a lot of internal partitions from the same SIP with locks. Since there are few or no partitions in a compact house, we also do not touch SIP as a material for it.

So we come to the conclusion: to build a country house, so that it is fast, simple and inexpensive, you need it from wood. With one small but very significant exception, see below.

Project

An inexpensive garden and / or compact country house is best built according to a standard project; see below for essential construction details. A ready-made free project of a country house is quite easy to find using any search engine. Or for a fee - a detailed standard project of a garden house for 300 rubles. find really on the relevant sites.

How to choose easier and cheaper

However, when sorting through projects, it is necessary to take into account some significant circumstances, namely, the cost, duration and complexity of the zero cycle, i.e. earthworks and laying the foundation. It's the frosty heaving of the soil. With seasonal shifts, the ground under the house does not shake and does not roll over in waves. Summer cottages are cut into soils that are diverse, but have one common property - their own sufficient connectivity, otherwise no one needs such a summer cottage. Therefore, within a certain space on the surface, frost heaving of the soil is reduced mainly to raising/reverse subsidence of its surface with a slight heel.

On the other hand, a small country house has excessive rigidity and elasticity. Here the square-cube law, well known to technology (and stubbornly overlooked by amateurs), operates here. It is easy to test it by experience: glue cubes with sides of 2 and 10 cm from ordinary writing paper and try to crumple one and the other. The third factor is the intrinsic cohesion of the soil is inextricably linked with its mechanical properties.

Without going into further details, we will immediately report the conclusion: if a small wooden country house in terms of fit into a circle of a certain diameter, then on ordinary soils of garden plots it can be built on an unburied foundation, which is much faster, easier and cheaper. In what circle should the project of a wooden house fit in the plan so that it can be built on an unburied foundation on soils up to and including medium-heavy, is shown in fig. It all depends, as we see, on the proportions of the structure: the more square the house, the better it plays out seasonal ground movements. Therefore, it is better to build “tramway” houses for narrow sections, without looking closely, on the foundation of a normal depth. But if the ratio of the “sticks” of a T-shaped house lies within 1

Note: the veranda/terrace is included in the projection of the house if it is rigidly connected with its design. Verandas that do not have a mechanical connection with the house or are hinged to it are excluded from the projection of the house in the plan.

Foundation

We will assume that we have decided on the foundation. We only recall that under a brick, timber or log house on all soils, except for non-rocky ones, it is necessary to lay a normally buried tape or TISE foundation. The slab foundation with insulation “settles down” on the ground for 2-3 years; this is enough for a timber or log house to begin to split. Under a house made of timber or foam blocks on slightly heaving soil, it is possible to lay a foundation on geo-screws (see below) with a steel grillage.

Unburied

An unburied foundation for a compact country house is the easiest and cheapest way to assemble a columnar foundation from ready-made concrete blocks 200x200x400. Blocks are laid out on a cement-sand mortar from M150, two in a row; top across the bottom. Thus, the column is obtained in terms of 400x400 mm.

Pit pits for posts are dug to a depth of 0.5 m; of which 15 + 15 cm falls on the anti-rock sand and gravel pillow. It makes no sense to deepen the columns of blocks by more than 20 cm: the dressing of the seams is weak, and the horizontal components of the frost heaving forces will tear the columns. The number of rows of blocks in the column is made more than 2 if the house needs to be raised above the ground by more than 20 cm. a week.

buried

The recessed foundation of a compact house is often, following the model of large buildings, piled on bored piles in soft roofing material formwork. If the house is on a slope, asbestos-cement pipes are taken to the pile shell, which makes it possible to compensate for the height difference along the slope of up to 1.7 m or more. With regard to fast small-sized construction, the disadvantage of these foundations is the same as that of the tape - it must stand and settle at least from autumn to spring.

Note: there is no point in laying a TISE foundation for a light compact house - the “caps” of TISE piles normally work in the ground only under a sufficient weight load from the building. Of the small-sized houses, only a 2-story brick or concrete one is capable of creating one.

Geoscrews

The best option for a recessed foundation for a compact house is on geoscrews. Geo-screws are a type of shortened screw piles especially for light buildings. Unlike conventional ones, ground screws are not designed for swampy, loose and floating soils. A foundation with geoscrews for a large house will cost significantly more than a self-made tape foundation, because. ground screws are not cheap in themselves, but for a small house this is not so scary, since few screws are required.

A geo-screw for soils of low and medium density, according to the principle of keeping it in the ground, is somewhat similar to a furniture confirmation screw and also looks like it, see Fig.:

The smooth head of geoscrews for dense soils is uniformly cylindrical. Those and other ground screws can be used on soils up to excessively heaving. On the heads of geoscrews, you can either lay the wooden lower trim of the structure, or mount a steel grillage. For information on how a wooden house is built on screw piles, see, for example. track. video:

Video: installation of a frame house


The advantages of ground screws for quick construction on a small site in cramped conditions are huge:

  • No preliminary geological surveys are required.
  • Geo-screws can be wrapped in rather heavily clogged soil: a cobblestone or a piece of concrete with a child's head will push the screw to the side.
  • Special equipment and access roads for it are not needed: 2 people with a crowbar or a home-made collar from a piece of pipe wrap up to 10 or more geo-screws per day.
  • Preparatory earthworks are not required: the screw is simply placed with its end in the hole on the bayonet of the shovel and twisted. Align vertically when the pointed tip enters the ground by a third - half.
  • Screwed geoscrews can be turned in/out to align the heads to the horizon.
  • There is no need for a technical break for foundation settlement - construction can be continued as soon as the last screw is wrapped.
  • An incorrectly wrapped screw can be unscrewed and wrapped again close to the old well.

Note: if you are building according to a ready-made project, which indicates the type and characteristics of the foundation, then you need to follow the recommendations of the designers, or consult with them about whether such and such a foundation is suitable on such and such soil.

What house to build?

We come to the very essence: what kind of simple country house will be built cheaper and most likely? In ascending order of cost, complexity and time of construction, as well as potentially aesthetic qualities (suitability for design and decoration), the options are next. way:

  1. House from a military kung;
  2. House-hut;
  3. Bungalow house;
  4. Frame house.

When not to excess

KUNG is an abbreviation for a Unified Body of Normal (Zero) Size. In the USSR, unified closed bodies for cars appeared after the Second World War and, thanks to their convenience, the name kung soon became a household name. A country house made of kung, most importantly, is very cheap: a decommissioned kung change house from ZIL-131 can be found for 30,000 rubles. And the construction comes down to bringing it and putting it on posts, concrete supports of grape trellises, etc., laid on a crushed stone pillow (so that weeds do not germinate and annoying living creatures do not start). The foundation for the kung is not needed on any ground in any climate - the kung is designed for off-road driving and overturning of the carrier vehicle.

The kung has only one drawback as a country house: a utilitarian appearance, which any designer's attempts only stick out. But there are a lot of advantages:

  • Excellent insulation - a stove the size of a desktop computer system unit heats the kung from the most severe frost.
  • The price is more than an order of magnitude less than that of a construction change house, a residential container or a section of a modular country house.
  • High resistance to external influences - warehouses, change houses and utility rooms made of kung have been standing almost without maintenance for more than 50 years, and they are not visible to demolition.
  • Fire safety is built in.
  • Built-in electrical wiring or channels for it, electrical input board (VS) and terminals for grounding connection.
  • Ample opportunities for redevelopment, interior equipment and decoration (see below).
  • No legal clearance or installation permit is required. Bought - brought - put - live.

It is better to look for a kung for a country house from ZIL-131 or GAZ-66 cars (see fig.): they have a flat floor and it is easier to put them on posts due to small or no recesses for wheel niches. You need 6 columns (it can be brick folded dry): in the corners in the middle of the long sides. Among other things, kungs from ZIL-131 and GAZ-66 are cheaper and easier to convert into housing than Ural and KAMAZ ones.

Note: do not take non-standardized "booths" from the ancient ZiS's and GAZ-51-53, their frames are highly susceptible to corrosion and insulation is no good.

The width of the kung is standard according to the zero auto-dimension (2.4 m), and the length can be in the range of 3.5-8.5 m. laying a deep foundation.

For a country house, it is preferable to look for a two-slot kung (two-slot), on the left in fig. But any other empty one turns out to be surprisingly spacious, in the center. Kung change houses (top left and right in the figure) already provide normal habitability for 3-4 people, but it would be even better to look for a kung from old hardware communications. There, too, there are sleeping places for a crew of 3-4 people, and after some application of their hands from such a kung, it turns out not a house, but a candy, at the bottom right in fig. It is better to remove the right (looking from the entrance inside) compartment for the autonomous power supply (BEA) gas unit: a mini-toilet with a shower is placed in its place. Removing half of the shelves above the left compartment of the BEA, we get a place for a gas stove for 1-2 burners and a small cutting table. The BEA compartment itself, as if on purpose, is intended for garden tools, planting material, etc., and with access also from the outside, through a wide hatch. In addition, there are side windows in the hardware communications kungs, which can not be said about all kungs - military cabins.

Chalet

Chalet means hut, and what changes the meaning of this word has undergone with the development of architecture is another matter. A country house-hut is durable almost the same as a kung, because. its load-bearing trusses are triangular. A small house-hut (approx. up to 4x6 m) can be placed on a non-buried foundation on any soil, except for excessively heaving. Materials for a hut house are required 1.5-2 times less than for a bungalow or frame house, and it is easier to build it without experience and with a minimum set of tools. The hut house has one more advantage inherited from the ancestors: it fits perfectly with almost any finish in any landscape, see fig.:

There are few drawbacks to the chalet. The house-hut retains all its advantages up to a size in terms of approx. 6x9 m, then it becomes more complex and material-intensive than traditional ones. Even in a small-sized hut, one of the sleeping places has to be equipped in the attic, where you have to climb a vertical ladder, that's all.

In America and Canada, single hut houses are quite widespread - shelters for hunters, fishermen, beekeepers, seasonal sharecroppers (this is the same as the Soviet hectare farmer, who remembers), on the left and in the center in the figure:

Arrangement of a single-seat house-hut - a shelter and a 3-seat country house

But a house-hut of only 3x3 m in plan can also be a country house for 2-3 people, on the right. In both cases, there are few heating costs, because. the relative area of ​​heat loss of a house-hut is smaller and it warms up faster due to more active air circulation. If your dacha is commercially inhabited from the first spring heat to the winter cold, then the hut house is optimal for you. After the kung, if you manage to buy it, who knows, they know the real price of the kung.

How to build a chalet

The construction of a hut house with dimensions in terms of up to 6x4 m is carried out step by step. way (this is the so-called airship technology developed by the Germans to build their zeppelins):

  1. They lay a columnar or pile screw (on geoscrews) foundation;
  2. The supporting A-frames of the frame are assembled from boards (130 ... 150) x40 lying on the plaza - any fairly solid flat surface;
  3. The assembled frames are stacked in order to check for skewness and in size, this is extremely important for a hut house;
  4. The verified frames are transferred one by one to the foundation and laid flat with the sole in place;
  5. Each frame transferred to the foundation is lifted with a rope, set vertically and fixed with temporary jibs;
  6. When all the frames are right, they fix the frame in the corners - at the bottom with cornice boards (see below), at the top with a ridge run, also from a pair of boards;
  7. When building a house more than 3x4 m, the frame is reinforced with additional longitudinal screeds;
  8. At the puff level (cross tie of the A-frame), the ceiling is assembled; without it, the house will not be strong;
  9. The floor of the house is assembled according to the usual technology for wooden houses;
  10. Sheathe the wings of the frame with 40 mm boards lengthwise, highly preferably tongue-and-groove;
  11. Assemble the frames of window and door openings;
  12. Sheathe facades;
  13. Produce other required construction work.

The hut house will be strong enough and durable only if the work on its construction is carried out in the specified sequence. This is probably the reason why few build hut houses - it’s easier to work on the principle of “take more, throw more”.

Drawings of a house-hut 3x3 m for two or three are given in Fig.:

The inset at the top left shows the design of facade frames for a house up to 4x6 m. The material, as well as intermediate frames, is timber 150x75. Firstly, on the facade frames, 2 ties are added to the tightening (intermediate frames without them). Secondly, instead of a ridge run, a ridge beam of the same section is used. Thirdly, the frames, except at the corners, are fastened with middle and upper straps (longitudinal stiffeners) from the same beam. Longitudinal and transverse bonds are connected by a half-tree tie-in. Those. using the example of a 4x6 m house, it is already clear how the complexity of construction and the material consumption of a hut house grow with an increase in its size.

Note: on the lower screed, 2 more ends of the beam 100x75 are visible on the sides of the window. They are supported by internal partitions. The door frame on the other façade extends up to tightening and is made of timber 75x150; the lower screed of this facade is split. If this house is without a base, the window frame is similarly performed.

Bungalow and… bungalow

In the general concept of a bungalow, this is an unheated one-room country house with an extensive covered veranda, structurally integral to it. For a weekend summer cottage in fairly warm regions, a “generally accepted” bungalow house is optimal, because. it is spacious, well ventilated, does not overheat by the Sun, and in construction it is no more complicated than a frame house, but less material-intensive.

However, today little is known to professional builders outside the tropics that the bungalow is also a kind of building technology. Bungalow huts built on it (another name is hakale) can still be found in the wilds of Russia, the north of the USA and all of Canada. Some of them are over 200 years old, but most of them are still habitable. A house built using bungalow technology is easily recognizable by its 2-layer sheathing of vertical boards; the outer row is intermittent, see fig. on right.

Bungalow, as a technology of wooden construction, combines elements of half-timbered structures and frame with working sheathing. Compared to both, bungalow technology has a footprint. advantages:

  • In wooded areas with developed logging, it is cheaper, despite the increased consumption of material for sheathing, because. unseasoned low-quality materials are suitable for it (sheathing), up to unedged boards and waste in the form of slabs.
  • The bungalow house is very different and can be built on a non-buried foundation on soils up to and including strongly heaving.
  • In damp places, houses built using bungalow technology are very durable due to the fact that the penetration of atmospheric moisture into the sheathing is minimized: the upper ends of the boards are covered with roof overhangs.

The disadvantages of building using bungalow technology are, firstly, the increased requirements for the experience and accuracy of the worker (see below). Secondly, there is some complexity in the design of openings: the outer skin boards need to be cut in place to fit the trim, otherwise pockets are formed - moisture traps.

Bungalow like bungalow

Bungalows as shelters are generally more popular than huts due to better habitability. In a bungalow, you do not have to climb up to sleep and stick out to eat.

The device of a bungalow-type shelter is shown in the figure:

Drawings of a mini bungalow house - shelters

The foundation, of course, is not necessarily a strip foundation (in this case, an unburied strip foundation, NZLF), but any one suitable for local conditions. If columnar or pile, then 12 supports are needed: 3 on the sides along the veranda and 4 (under each vertical rack) on the others. This house can be extended in length up to 3-3.5 m. Then, if you do not lengthen acc. veranda, you can fence off the toilet, and the attic in any case remains free for property and supplies.

The “real” bungalow for outdoor recreation with dimensions of 4x5.875 m is, of course, more complicated in plan (see the next figure), just like a frame house (see below). There is no attic (this is a characteristic feature of "real" recreational bungalows). The requirements for the foundation are the same, but already for soils up to and including medium heaving; prev. the option is excellent also on strongly heaving soils.

Bungalow as technology

The main features of the bungalow as a building technology are indicated above. In addition: the power frame is assembled from a bar from 150x150 without jibs. Yes Yes! The rigidity of the structure is given by the sheathing of vertical boards. Plywood and OSB are of little use, because under each joint of sheets, lining racks and valleys are needed.

Bungalow construction schemes are given in the figure:

The truss floor structures are not conventionally shown, they are ordinary. Please note, on the left in the figure: the triple corners of the frame are assembled in a half-tree and into a spike, and the spikes of the racks are on the inside of the corners. This is an indispensable condition for the strength of the structure: the elements of the load-bearing frame must cling to each other at the corners even without steel fasteners. Although it is necessary, see the scheme for reinforcing the corners in the center in fig. It is unacceptable to use steel corners, linings, etc. in this case! For the Old Testament "oakness" you have to pay with labor.

Sheathing boards need to be oriented with “humps” (bulges of annual layers) as shown on the right in the figure: inner inside, outer out. The outer boards should be slightly narrower than the inner ones, then in the process of warping the wood, the sheathing will compact and compress the frame. With any other arrangement of "humpbacks" it will split and the whole house will weaken.

All boards are attached to the frame along short (end) edges with three (not in pairs!) Nails or self-tapping screws. The edge boards are also fastened along the long edges to the corner posts with the same fasteners in a row or with a snake (zigzag) in increments of 100-120 mm. The outer boards are attached to the inner boards along short edges with pairs of fasteners; long - in a row with the same step.

The assembly of the power frame of the bungalow is a very important stage of work. And laborious, because you can’t hammer staples with a carpenter’s hammer, and you can’t tighten 12x300 self-tapping screws with a screwdriver. In old designs, instead of self-tapping screws, oak dowels were placed in wedging. The frame of the house using bungalow technology is assembled in the next. order:

  1. Assemble the bottom frame on the foundation;
  2. Racks are installed, aligned vertically and fixed with temporary braces;
  3. Assemble the upper frame on racks;
  4. Pioneer holes are drilled for the brackets (marking - by the brackets themselves at an angle of 45 degrees). The depth of the pioneer holes is 2/3 of the length of the mustache of the staple, the diameter is 3/4 of the diameter of the mustache;
  5. The grooves are chosen under the shelves of brackets, because. staples must be recessed into the tree;
  6. Staples are baited with a hammer;
  7. Once again check the verticality of the racks and put the top steel fasteners;
  8. Finish off the staples with a sledgehammer;
  9. Produce wall cladding;
  10. Temporary braces are removed and other work is done.

Skeletons

The frame mini-house does not have any features compared to the large residential one; the scheme of its device is given in Fig.:

The order of construction is described in detail and with illustrations in many sources. You can also watch a video about the construction of a "classic" frame house 6x4 m:

Video: country house 4 × 6 using frame technology

The complexity and cost of building a frame house is higher than all those described above. The attention, knowledge and accuracy required to build a hut house and a bungalow do not count: they do not require costs and do not take time. But the frame mini-house also has an undeniable advantage: a simple shape with vertical walls and smooth cladding make it suitable for a wide variety of design delights, see fig.

Also, the design of the frame house is very plastic. On the one hand, it forgives rather gross mistakes of novice builders. On the other hand, it gives creative lovers a certain scope for experimentation. See, for example, a video about the construction of a small frame house-shelter:

Video: do-it-yourself mini-frame house

It is only necessary to add to this plot that the comments of the audience about the insulation are fair. Since it is impossible to “drive out” the dew point once and for all outside, and there are no massive walls where it could “walk”, insulating materials in such structures must be used to prevent condensation in the insulation layer and further inside: EPPS or cellulose insulation (ecowool) .

In conclusion about the roof

The crossbar of the roof (all as it is, its supporting structure) of a small house also has a feature. It is determined by its small size, and, as a result, the excessive rigidity of the structure, as well as the absence in it (forgive the clericalism), put a load-bearing partition (internal main wall). To hold the latter, a fully connected foundation is needed; at least - tape normal depth.

Rafter structures (in this case, this is the same roof beam) are, as you know, hanging (pos. 1a in the figure) and layered (pos. 1b):

In the first, the rack of the truss truss rests on a transverse screed beam, and in a layered truss, on a load-bearing partition; split tie. It is technically possible to make a load-bearing partition in a small house, but it is not justified in any sense, including ergonomic - habitability. Therefore, the roof trusses of small houses are made only hanging. As for the methods of assembling the truss structure of a small house, they can be any of the well-known poses. 3 and 4. Choose whatever you like according to skill, availability of materials and desire. The minimum size of boards for a house up to 6x6 m is 40x130, ridge timber - 100x75 and Mauerlat - from 150x75. In a bungalow house and a frame Mauerlat, a beam of the upper trim can directly serve.