A drill is simply irreplaceable in the household today; almost all craftsmen have it in their arsenal. Some models include a striking mechanism, as shown in the diagram that can be seen in Fig. 1. In this case, the device is more functional. The device can be seen from the diagram in Fig. 2, it shows the speed controller under the number 1; under the number 2 - reverse; number 3 indicates the brush holder with the brush itself; 4 is the motor stator; 5 - impeller designed to cool the engine; The gearbox is located under the number 6.
Tool motor design
The drill has a commutator electric motor in its design, which consists of 3 main components, among them:
- stator;
- anchor;
- carbon brushes.
Figure 1. Device diagram impact mechanism drills.
The first mentioned element is based on electrical steel, which is characterized by the quality of excellent magnetic permeability. It is made according to the cylinder principle and has devices for mounting stator windings. There are two of the latter, and their location is opposite each other. The stator is firmly fixed in the main apparatus housing.
The rotor is represented by a shaft, on the latter there is a core made on the basis of the same steel. Along the latter there are grooves spaced equally apart. The windings are laid with a single wire and have taps that are designed for fixation to the collector plates. This forms an anchor, which has segments in its composition. The collector is located on the shaft shank and is securely fixed to it. During the startup process, the rotor rotates at internal space stator on bearings. Brushes move along the plates during the operation of the installation. They are based on graphite.
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Triac regulator
The triac controller located in the start button is responsible for the speed of the installation when the drill is turned on. This regulator is mounted in the button body and is located on a lining made of textolite. The board is designed in such a way that it has small dimensions, which allows it to be completely located in the trigger space. After pressing the power button, an immediate break occurs in the device regulator, at which point the circuit is closed in a scanty period of time. And the regulator is not able to influence the voltage variation, however, the rms voltage level is subject to change.
After the drill starts operating, alternating voltage is supplied to the network.
Figure 2. Drill spare parts.
In parallel with this, a sinusoidal voltage is supplied to the control electrode of the triac. During the period when its level is greater than the operating voltage of the triac, the latter opens, which indicates the circuit is closed; at this moment, current flows through the load.
Wiring diagram and connection of the installation button in various models may differ from different manufacturing plants. The most simplified of all the diagrams and the one that best shows the principle of operation is shown in Fig. 3. One wire from the power cord is connected to the speed controller. The presented figure shows the electrical circuit of the device, where “reg. rev." — speed regulator, “1st stage. exchange." — primary stator winding, “2nd st. winding.” - respectively, secondary, “1st brush.” - first brush.
In order not to get confused, it should be remembered that the speed controller and the reverse control system are represented by completely different components of the tool, which in some models even have separate housings.
Figure 3. Typical diagram of a drill speed controller.
Only 2 wires go to the speed controller. And the one that comes out of the speed controller is connected to the beginning of the stator primary. In the absence of reverse, the end of the primary would be mated to the rotor brush, and the second brush would be mated to the beginning of the stator secondary. The end of the secondary goes to the second wire of the cord, from which the drill is powered during operation.
The rotor begins to work in the other direction the moment the end of the primary is connected to the second brush. In the reverse system, such a connection is made; for this reason, the rotor brushes are interfaced with the stator windings through it. In Fig. Figure 4 shows a connection diagram for the reverse device. Wires in the amount of 4 pcs. go to the rotor brushes, those that have gray, go to the end of the primary and the beginning of the secondary.
The system for adjusting the speed of the device involves the presence of a capacitor and the connection of wires that come from the outlet to the regulator. If we take into account the installation from the example, then only two contacts are used, which are located at the bottom. The system is completely devoid of a capacitor, and the second wire of the cord is connected directly to the stator winding.
The drill is considered one of the most popular tools for home craftsmen and is used for many types of work. Due to intensive use, parts of the tool can break, which disables the device. Don’t rush to the service center: it’s quite possible to repair the drill yourself and save a lot of money.
If you know the structure of the drill and the principle of operation of the tool, then repairing the product yourself will not be difficult for you.
Regardless of the model or manufacturer, all of these power tools consist of a typical set of basic components.
- Network cable. Many users do not pay due attention to the cord connecting the tool to the network, but according to statistics, 50% of malfunctions of electrical products occur because of it. The cord breaks easily during operation; its frequent break points are the entrance to the device handle and the place where the contacts are soldered on the start button. The defect often occurs due to the mobility of the entire button block.
- Capacitor. This small rectangular-shaped part is located in the drill handle and is designed to suppress the resulting interference from sparks.
- Start button. One of the weakest points is that if problems arise in the electrical part of the product, it is tested immediately after the cable.
- Stator electric motor . In the event of a short circuit, a breakdown of the winding may occur - a very unpleasant case, the entire winding must be rewinded. Inside is a rotor or armature.
- Support bearing.
- Location nodes motor brushes. The brushes are made of durable graphite and wear out from long-term use; they can be responsible for the malfunction of the electrical part of the product - during normal operation, each of them sparks. Frequent problems are a wad of dust between the brush body and the rotor.
- Collector. If its contacts are clean, then the rotor rotates smoothly.
- Product body.
- Fan. It is designed to constantly cool the electric drill motor.
- Mode switch.
- Gearbox. Always present in any model, since the cartridge does not fit directly onto the rotor axis.
- The largest gear in the gearbox. Frequent malfunctions: dust and foreign particles get into the lubricant, because of this it loses its properties, and the gearbox quickly wears out and needs to be replaced.
- Two chuck bearings. They bear the heaviest load, so they require periodic inspection and maintenance- removal, washing, replacement of lubricant.
- The axis on which the cartridge is mounted. In hammer drill models, it has a return spring.
- Product cartridge. Its collet mechanism for clamping a drill or various attachments can be of a quick-release type or clamped with a special key.
Any repair of a drill with your own hands must begin with a visual inspection of all parts. The principle here is simple - from simple to complex, i.e. first we check the cord, wiring, contacts, different mounts, then we begin to test the blocks and engine. It does not always come to complete disassembly of the product, but in practice one must be prepared for such a development of events. The instruction manual will help you disassemble a specific model.
Common breakdowns
Regardless of the build quality and manufacturer, the following malfunctions occur quite often:
- the electric motor fails due to a broken armature or stator;
- extreme wear of brushes;
- bearing problems;
- The speed control button does not work;
- the contacts of the start button oxidize or burn out;
- failure of the chuck clamping the drill due to wear of the jaws.
If you decide to make repairs electric drill yourself, you first need to diagnose and find the fault. It is rarely possible to repair a faulty part on your own; as a rule, it is simply replaced with a new one.
Electrical problems
Before disassembling the drill, you should make sure that it is unplugged. Any disassembly begins with removing the fasteners. Then unscrew the screws and screws and remove top part products - all components remain at the bottom. Electrical diagram of a drill It’s quite simple - there’s no need to separately describe all the elements, everything is already intuitive.
Naturally, for models with electronic adjustments it is much more complicated, but it is unlikely that you will be able to repair a drill with such components yourself; it is better to entrust this to specialists from the service center.
Connection cord
When the power goes out, you just need to change the position of the product - the reason lies in the cable, most likely one of the wires broke. You need to unplug the drill and check it with a multimeter cable. Can be used simplest option- light bulb and battery in one circuit.
Attention! Pulling the cord when the drill is plugged in is strictly prohibited; to avoid a short circuit, you will have to rewind the motor winding.
After checking, you can bend it however you like to find the break point, then part of the cable is cut off, the wires are stripped and new contacts are created for connection. When a break occurs in the middle of the cable, it must be completely replaced with a new one. True, thrifty users prefer to connect broken wires by soldering and then reliable insulation places of repair, but there is no longer complete trust in such a wire.
Power button
This item has a very simple design, but if a problem occurs it will prevent the drill from turning on. Its operation is simple: the key slides into special block, and closes the contacts with the pusher finger. From long-term use inside the block dust is gathering, which prevents the button from moving and blocks it, preventing it from closing the contact circuit. The defect can be eliminated simply by opening it and removing dust with a brush.
Important! Never try to lubricate the sliding surfaces of the button - dust mixes with the lubricant and wear occurs, as a result of which the entire unit must be replaced.
To repair the drill button, you need to remove the side wall and check the integrity of the contacts. When carbon deposits have formed, clean the contact with fine sandpaper. If the contact burns, we replace the entire unit.
Rotor brushes
Not all users know that power from the mains is transmitted to the rotor using brushes made of graphite - when normal operation There is constant sparking between them and the rotor.
During operation, the brushes gradually become smaller because their lower part is worn out. They need to be inspected and replaced periodically - this is not difficult to do, you just need to have a new set in stock.
When you notice strong sparking in the area of the brushes, and you have changed them recently, this may happen due to problems with the rotor or its collector.
Checking the rotor
For a thorough check, carefully remove the rotor from the stator. The contacts may be charred or have scale - you need to clean them with sandpaper strictly in the direction of rotation. Reason appearance of scale May be long work at maximum speed. How to check the rotor for serviceability? Test the adjacent lamellas with a multimeter - their resistance should be identical.
Do not forget check the winding- whether there was a short circuit with the magnetic circuit housing. If a breakdown is detected, the faulty winding is rewound independently or taken to a service center.
Drill stator
Visual inspection must be done periodically: in case of overheating, when the product was working with maximum loads, could melt protective varnish and happen turn-to-turn short circuit. In this case, the winding will burn out, and the electric motor is unsuitable for further operation. The check is done in the same way as in the case of the rotor - we check the windings using a multimeter. If a breakdown is detected, the stator winding must be rewinded.
Leading Impact Drill Manufacturers Special attention pay attention to the protection of winding wires, because their products operate in a special mode.
Mechanical damage
Why is the device still not functioning if you have checked everything and ruled out any breakdowns? electrical diagram drills? There can be only one answer - the non-working condition of the product arose due to the presence of mechanical faults.
- Bearings don't work. Dust gets into the lubricant due to a breakthrough in the oil seal, so they wear out quickly and may at some point jam. It’s easy to fix: wash the bearing in kerosene, change the seals, fill it with new grease, preferably a special composition for products with high rotation speeds.
- Broken gearbox- a very serious breakdown, spare gears are needed, or the entire module will have to be replaced. You only need to install the same model. If the drill is a common modification, then buying spare parts for it in stores is not a problem.
- Experts consider another of the most difficult malfunctions damage to cartridge parts.
During operation, drilling waste often gets into the inside of the chuck and mixes with lubricant, which jams the internal jaws. The cartridge must be disassembled, all parts are washed and lubricated before assembly. If extreme wear is detected, the part must be replaced; if the base or sleeve is severely worn, the entire unit must be replaced.
We tried to talk about all the failures that occur during the operation of electric drills. Remember that self-repair is always much cheaper than buying a new product.
You can repair a drill yourself, the main thing is to know the causes of breakdowns and methods of “treating” them. Today we will talk about what the drill button connection diagram looks like, and we will not ignore other faults, thanks to which you will be the proud owner of a working tool.
If your tool begins to work worse, or even stops performing its direct duties, it’s time to diagnose the problems and try to deal with them. First, we check the wire for damage and the voltage in the outlet, for which you can plug in any other device - a TV or a kettle.
If you are inspecting battery-powered devices, they should be checked using a tester - in this case, the voltage indicated on the case should have a similar value to the battery voltage.
If the voltage is less, you will have to replace the batteries with new ones. If the battery is working normally, the power supply is normal, look for hardware problems. The most frequent breakdowns consider:
- Problems with engine operation;
- Brush wear;
- Problems with the button operation.
Knowing how the electric drill button is connected, you can quickly solve the problem. In addition, a problem with the operation of the drill can also arise due to the dustiness of the tool, because the drill “takes” wood, brick, and other materials. This means that you should take care to clean the device after each use - this is the only way to reduce the risk of malfunctions due to contamination of the tool. That is why, after you have carried out, immediately clean the drill.
Unfortunately, to check the functionality of the tool, a tester will not be enough for you, which is due to the fact that most of The device buttons are equipped with smooth speed control, and therefore a regular tester may give you incorrect data. In this case, you will need a special connection diagram for the drill button. Often in instruments one wire is connected to a terminal, and therefore pressing the button simultaneously leads to ringing of the terminals. If the light comes on, everything is fine with the button, but if you notice a malfunction, it’s time to replace the button.
When making a replacement, keep in mind that the circuit can be either simple or with reverse. Due to this, all work on replacing the button must be carried out exclusively according to the diagram, without adding anything “on your own”. So, the part must be suitable in size and match the power of the tool. At the same time, calculating power is a fairly simple task. We use the formula P=U*I (taking into account that the drill power is 650 W), I = 2.94 A (650/220), which means the button should be at 2.95 A.
Despite the fact that this process is quite complicated, you can do all the work yourself, following some important rules. For example, remember that opening the case may cause all parts and loose parts to simply fall out of the case. Naturally, this should be avoided, because then it will be quite difficult to assemble the device together. To do this, you can smoothly lift the cover, noting the exact location of the spare parts on paper.
The button is repaired as follows:
- First, the clamps for the casing are hooked, after which it is carefully pulled together;
- All rusted and darkened terminals are cleaned of carbon deposits, for which you can use alcohol or sandpaper;
- We reassemble the tool, making sure that all parts of the device are in place, and check the functionality of the drill - if nothing has changed, we change the part;
- We fill the speed regulator with a compound, and therefore if a part fails, we simply replace it;
- A frequent breakdown is the abrasion of the working layer under the rheostat - it’s better not to repair it, it’s just a waste of time, it’s better to buy a new one and replace it.
Many people are interested in where to get such a scheme? First of all, it should come with the instrument when you purchase it, but if there is no diagram or you have lost it, you will have to look on the Internet. After all, only with its help will you be able to carry out repairs competently, without errors. By the way, the speed control button and the reverse control button are located in different places, and therefore you will have to check them separately.
There are several reasons for damage to the armature or stator of a drill. First of all, this is illiterate operation of the device. For example, many users simply overload the tool, working without interruption. This leads to the fact that the drill motor does not have time to “rest”. The second reason lies in poor coil wire, which is often found in cheap models. That is why breakdowns of cheap tools are much more common. In this case, repairs must be carried out using specialized tools. And it will be better if you entrust this work to professional specialists.
However, if you decided to carry out the repairs on your own, you will definitely have a question - how to do everything right? As you already understand, it “suffers” from armature and stator breakdowns, and this can be checked with several signs, for example, when the tool suddenly sparks during operation. If there are no “bright” signs, you can use an ohmmeter.
The stator is changed like this:
- First, carefully disassemble the device body;
- Remove the wires and all internal parts;
- After finding out the causes of the breakdown, we replace the spare part with a new one and close the housing again.
But the drill may not work due to trivial faults - for example, due to brushes inside the motor. This means that you can’t do without repairing brushes, and this work is quite simple - you don’t even need to have special knowledge and tools. To do this, we disassemble the device, remove the brush holders from it and replace parts that are broken. By the way, there are models whose body does not need to be disassembled - in them you just need to remove special plugs through the installation window, after which we change the brushes.
You can purchase these parts at any hardware store, there are also some models that are sold with a set of additional brushes. It is important that you do not wait until the brushes are completely worn out - check them from time to time. And all due to the fact that there is a risk of a gap forming between the bristles and the collector. As a result, this part will begin to overheat and eventually fall off - which means you will have to change the entire anchor, which will be much more expensive and more difficult, and it is not a fact that you will be able to solve this issue yourself.
As you can see, there are a variety of breakdowns, many of which will be within your control, others will only be possible for specialists in service centers. And to reduce the risk of such breakdowns, you need to take care of your tool, clean it after work, check the condition of the parts and brushes in order to replace them with new ones in time. However, if you see that you cannot handle it yourself, take the device to a workshop.
An electric drill in a home workshop takes special place. Therefore, tool breakage is quite a big nuisance. Despite the complexity of the design, it is quite possible to carry out independent repairs.
1. housing and power cord;
2. key with switching block – can be equipped
reverse switch (speed controller);
3. shaft rotation speed regulator (or reverse switch);
4. gear housing – performs load-bearing functions for rotating
elements;
5. gears and gear mechanism;
6. bearings of the cartridge shaft and motor armature;
7. electric motor;
8. brush assembly of the electric motor;
9. chuck with a mechanism for holding a drill or cutter.
The entire drill never breaks down: one of the elements fails. Having understood the design and interconnection of power tool components, it will be easier to localize the fault.
Algorithm for finding and eliminating electrical failures
Drill repair is carried out according to the principle “from simple to complex”. You should not immediately disassemble the tool down to the screw and evaluate the condition of all components at the same time.
- The drill does not turn on. We start with the power cord (at a minimum, you should check the voltage in the outlet and extension cord before doing this). Having disassembled the case, we find the cable contacts and “ring” them using a multimeter.
Important! Do not test the supply wire with voltage applied! If the current-carrying wires are broken, you can get an electric shock or cause a short circuit.
We connect to the connector of the power plug and the opposite terminal of the cord. Then we bend the cable several times along its entire length. Lost contact or its complete absence indicates the presence of a break inside the insulation. If the fracture of the current-carrying core is close to the edge, the cable is cut and reconnected. It will just be a little shorter. If the break is in the middle of the length, it is better to replace the wire. Splicing will be unsafe.
- The cord is working - check the switch. We connect the multimeter to the terminals and press the key. A large current passes through the contacts, sparking occurs (especially when dust gets into the case). Contacts may simply oxidize. Carefully disassemble the switch body and clean the contact groups with fine sandpaper.
If metal parts break, it is better to purchase a new unit.
- If there is an additional contact group in the circuit between the switch and the electric motor (for example, a reverse switch or speed controller), we diagnose this unit as well.
- Next, we check the connecting wires from the switch to the motor brushes. If they are in order, we diagnose the brush assembly.
The springs must confidently press the brushes against the armature slats, and we check the carbon elements themselves for wear. If necessary, we replace: spare parts are included in the delivery set, or can be purchased in specialized stores. The armature contact lamellas may be oxidized or clogged. They can be carefully cleaned with fine sandpaper.
- A more complex breakdown is the failure of the armature or stator windings. Using a multimeter, a short circuit is checked between the unit body and the winding contacts. Then the resistance is measured. The value should be the same on each winding, the spread of readings should not be more than 5%. Faulty windings must be rewound.
- You can do this yourself, or in a repair shop (in any case, it will be cheaper than buying a new engine).
Mechanical faults of the electric drill
Such breakdowns manifest themselves quite clearly. Extraneous noise, grinding, shaft jamming, etc.
- The motor rotates slowly and the windings become very hot. Or during normal rotation a characteristic hum (grinding) is heard. Most likely, the rotor bearings are worn out or clogged. Having disassembled the drill body, carefully remove the rotor. It is removed along with the bearings. By twisting the outer ring, you can immediately determine the malfunction. If the bearings rotate tightly, they must be washed with a penetrating liquid (WD-40 or regular kerosene)
Important! Make sure that no liquids get into the armature winding! Otherwise, the insulating varnish may dissolve and an interturn short circuit will occur.
Then, grease for high-speed units is placed between the races. Litol or graphite grease for automobile bearings is suitable.
If there is play between the bearing races, the units need to be changed.
Dismantling is carried out with a special puller or using an open-end wrench.
If there are no balls, be sure to find them in the body. Fallen objects can get between the parts of the engine or gearbox and damage the entire assembly.
- The chuck shaft bearings are diagnosed and repaired in the same way. You just can't dismantle them without a puller.
- If the mounting location of the outer race of the bearing (bed) is worn out (this happens when the bearing is jammed), it will be necessary to make liners from thin sheet metal. Otherwise, beats will occur when the shaft rotates.
- The engine rotates in normal mode, noise and grinding noises are heard from the gearbox housing. The shaft rotates unevenly. Worn or damaged gears of the gearbox.
We disassemble the housing and inspect the gears.
It is advisable to wash the assembly of old grease and rotate the shaft 360°, controlling the gear engagement. If play or excessive wear of the teeth is detected, the mechanical part will have to be replaced.
Perhaps there is simply accumulated in the gearbox housing a large number of dust. Together with the lubricant, an abrasive paste is formed. In this case, after washing the assembly, simply apply new grease.
Advice: The lubricant should be changed periodically, without waiting for a breakdown.
Especially if you often drill into stone walls.
- The cartridge is broken. This is a rarity for cam devices (turnkey), the design is reliable and simple. The unit is exposed to dust, so internal mechanism It might simply jam. Most often, the gripper guides become clogged with small abrasive particles.
If the cartridge does not tighten well, it is enough to blow it out compressed air and treat with penetrating lubricant.
Attention: The jaw chucks are not lubricated inside!
Disassemble the part without special tool It's hard enough. If any component inside is mechanically broken, you will still have to replace the entire assembly.
But quick-release chucks, on the other hand, are easy to disassemble and repair.
They are not as reliable and do not carry the load well. To disassemble such a cartridge, it is enough to remove a couple of lock washers. You will easily find a broken or worn part that will be easy to replace.
How to remove the cartridge?
There are two types of fastening: Morse taper and threaded. In the first case, you need to apply several blows with a small hammer to the back of the cartridge. After which it can be easily removed.
To unscrew the threaded fastening, the shaft is held wrench(there are special flats on the shaft).
There are no malfunctions that cannot be corrected with your own hands. If a separate unit cannot be restored, only it is changed, there is no need to buy a new drill.
To prevent breakdowns, you should follow simple rules:
- After dusty work, blow out the ventilation holes and internal cavity cartridge. Keep the tool clean.
- Do not overheat the engine - take breaks during prolonged use.
- Periodically renew the lubricant on the rotating parts.
Due to frequent use, the drill button becomes damaged and in such cases it must be replaced. Connecting a drill button does not require special qualifications and therefore it is possible to replace a failed part on your own. We will talk about how to connect the drill button on your own and what you need to do for this in today’s article.
Photo-1. Drill button equipped with reverse.
Drill button with reverse
Usually the drill button gives us a signal in advance that it will soon fail. In such cases, the button begins to work intermittently or requires strong pressing to turn on the electric motor. Then, after a while, the button stops working completely. In such cases, it is quite easy to detect a malfunction of the drill button. For a more detailed acquaintance with your own hands, I suggest visiting another article on this site.
To do this, unscrew the bolts securing the drill body, disassemble it and check the button using a probe. After this, you should plug the plug into the outlet and check the voltage at the input terminals. If your measuring device will show that there is voltage, but when you press the button the engine does not turn on, this will mean that the button is out of order. As a rule, in such situations they buy new button drills and connect it yourself or try to open it and repair it.
You can see how to connect the drill button in this video
Drill button diagram
Picture 1. Reverse button connection diagram
Drill button connection diagram
The drill button shown in photo -1 is equipped with a built-in electric motor speed controller as well as a built-in rotor rotation direction controller - reverse. The button is a very complex structure and therefore it should be disassembled very carefully, since usually after disassembly all its parts scatter in all directions and its further use becomes impossible. After disassembly, they usually clean the terminals of carbon deposits and put it back together, but if this does not help, then buy a new one.
Photo-2. Regular drill button without reverse
Drill button without reverse
It should be said that the buttons are different, just like electric drills, so you need to know that not all buttons are equipped with reverse and engine speed control. However, such buttons also represent complex designs and as a rule, if they fail for some reason, they are no longer restored to working condition. When purchasing a new button, you should take the old one with you so as not to confuse it with another model. There are many cases when the parameters of the buttons match, but when installed in the drill case they simply do not fit.
Figure -2. Ordinary connection
Drawing diagram for connecting a drill button without reverse
Connecting a drill button does not require any special knowledge or skills. To do this, you just need to remember that the new button must match the power of the drill and its size. If you are going to buy a new drill button, pay attention to the size and power of your drill. The button must match not only the power of the electric motor of your drill, but also its size. For example, if the drill has power R= 650 W, then from physics we know that Р=U·I, where I=P/U=650/220 and 2.95 A. So we need to buy a button BUE-3 ~220V 3.0A.
Drill button device
Well, at the end of this article, I would like to address the issue that many of you will encounter in the process of dismantling the old drill button. In order to perform high-quality dismantling of the button, you will need minimal knowledge of the design of modern drill start buttons.
The video above shows how the button works when you press it. If the reverse lever is set to tighten bolts, nuts, etc., then both lower terminals are closed. If you turn on the reverse in the opposite direction, then only one lower terminal is connected to the network, the second when this doesn't work. As a rule, in all modern drill buttons, the wire clamping devices are designed from durable steel and are not very convenient for dismantling.
The fact is that button manufacturers are concerned about increasing productivity when assembling their products. They design buttons in such a way that it is as convenient, easy and quick as possible to install electrical equipment, but at the same time the convenience of replacing and repairing buttons suffers.
Photo-3. The design of electrical wiring clamp terminals in modern drill buttons
In other words, the prepared wire of a winding or other drill part for installation can easily be inserted into the hole provided for it in the button body, but pulling it back out is problematic - this requires skill and ingenuity. The clamp terminals in the button body itself are installed at an angle of 45 degrees, and made of hardened steel.
If you look carefully at photo 3 presented in this article, you will agree with me that in order to pull out the wire you just need to push out the clip inside the button body and release the mounting cable. To do this, you will need a thin large needle or a thin strong awl, which you need to insert into the hole reserved for mounting the wire and push the clamp inside, thereby freeing the wire from the grip. That’s all, in conclusion I can say that the method I told you works very well (I checked it myself more than once). You can safely get to work and replace the drill button yourself with your own hands. That’s all for today, I’m waiting for your comments below, bye, see you next time!