Thanks to modern finishing materials, an ordinary cold loggia from a banal smoking room, a storage room and a place for drying clothes can be turned into a warm and cozy continuation of the living space - a study, a workshop, an extension to the kitchen or a comfortable recreation area. An important stage in this transformation is floor insulation on the balcony.
Features and Benefits
Considering a warm balcony an unnecessary luxury means losing not only additional square meters of your home, but also its thermal insulation, and the possibility of more rational improvement. After all, usually the base of the loggia consists of concrete slabs, which freeze strongly in winter and quickly collect condensation in summer. Therefore, in order to achieve the maximum effect when changing the functionality of the balcony space, it is necessary to combine the construction of a warm floor there with wall insulation and high-quality glazing.
The advantages of such an arrangement are quite obvious:
- a significant increase in useful square meters, which is valuable for small-sized housing; - a change in the microclimate in an adjacent room for the better;
- excellent noise insulation device;
- significant reduction in heat loss of the entire area of the apartment.
The main feature of the balcony insulation is that it is unlikely to connect the central heating of the apartment to it, but it is possible to arrange it with electric radiators and a convenient "warm floor" system. The thermal insulation material optimal for such work should be selected especially carefully.
Insulation types
Balcony - the structure is portable, usually located on one concrete slab, which connects it to the house. This means that it is impossible to overload it with heavy finishing materials. Therefore, for thermal insulation, one should select those insulation options that are lightweight, easy to cut and simply assembled.
Styrofoam - the cheapest option for insulating the floor on the balcony. However, all its indisputable advantages in the form of low price, excellent thermal insulation properties, lightness, hygroscopicity, bactericidal, frost resistance, long-term operation and simple installation more than outweigh the disadvantages: complete vapor tightness, high flammability and toxicity. Therefore, it is better to lay the foam only under the screed - so its vapor permeability will not be so important, and it will no longer be able to catch fire. Typically, the foam is produced in white sheets with a thickness of 2 to 10 centimeters. The thickest sheets are most often used to insulate the floor on the balcony.
Extruded polystyrene - an inexpensive material for insulating a floor on a balcony with a chemical composition similar to foam plastic and positive properties, but with fewer negative characteristics. Extruded polystyrene is capable of transmitting light, is quite resistant to negative environmental influences and temperature extremes, is not prone to decay, retains compressive strength and does not need to use additional insulation for high-quality thermal insulation. It is produced in slabs of 60x120 and 60x240 centimeters in size. The main disadvantage of polystyrene is its flammability.
Penoplex (expanded polystyrene) - belongs to the new generation of heat insulators. It, like polystyrene, is lightweight, low vapor permeability, easy to install, very effective as a heater and is also available in the form of plates with a thickness of 2 to 10 centimeters. At the same time, the thinnest slab is sufficient to insulate the balcony floor with penoplex - after all, it compares favorably with foam plastic with a denser, moisture and heat-resistant structure, excellent sound insulation, strong and durable in operation. The only significant drawback of penoplex is its significant cost. Although some manufacturers note that styrene that is part of the styrene foam is poisonous and volatile, and therefore it is advised to close it with plaster or drywall very tightly, without leaving gaps.
Minvata is considered the most optimal material for insulating a balcony floor. It is made of porphyrite, slag, gabbro, diabase and other minerals and is produced in the form of rolls or mats with a thickness of 5 to 10 centimeters.
Mineral wool is used most often not only because of its low cost, but also due to the abundance of its positive properties:
- high refractoriness (does not burn even at + 1000 ° С);
- minimum thermal conductivity;
- excellent sound insulation;
- breathability;
- resistance to negative bio-effects;
- environmental friendliness.
Minor shortcomings of mineral wool include fear of moisture (eliminated during installation of the film), intolerance to tamping, and therefore to laying under a screed (with the exception of high-density basalt mineral slabs) and an increased content of formaldehyde in low-quality samples. It is better to insulate the wooden flooring on the balcony floor with a "stone" (basalt) mineral wool laid under it.
System " warm floor"- the most comfortable solution for insulating a balcony. Its main advantages are the establishment and uniform distribution of the desired temperature throughout the room (allows you to save the balcony from settling dust and regulate the air humidity there), resistance to corrosion (thin aluminum tubes of the structure are covered with plastic outside and inside ), safety, compactness and aesthetics (all heating devices are hidden in the screed), as well as ease of installation, ease of use and further maintenance.
At the same time, equipping a balcony with a warm floor can bring some inconveniences:
- it slowly heats up and cools down due to the need to warm up the concrete screed;
- during major repairs, it is easy to damage and difficult to restore;
- not all finishing materials are combined with a warm floor;
- the furniture installed on it should not restrict the free circulation of air.
Expanded clay - although inexpensive, it is far from the best material for insulating the floor on the balcony. Firstly, it is not able to retain heat as well as mineral wool or foam. And secondly, the creation of a reliable heat-insulating layer will require a lot of expanded clay, which will significantly increase the weight of the balcony, which is undesirable. But expanded clay is completely environmentally friendly. And it is sometimes mixed with a concrete solution of a leveling screed or used in the "dry" technology of its device.
Which material is better
Usually, we need thermal insulation of the balcony to save us from the winter cold and summer heat, as well as to protect its facade and supporting structures from temperature extremes and precipitation. Conventionally, all heaters can be divided into traditional (expanded clay, polystyrene, mineral wool) and innovative (polystyrene, polystyrene, foam, underfloor heating, etc.), or according to the composition of the raw materials used for their manufacture (organic, inorganic and mixed).
By the way, all insulation materials with similar characteristics cost about the same, so you should not consider the price as a determining factor for their choice. But before you buy insulation for the floor on the balcony, decide what its topcoat will be and who will be engaged in the installation - you yourself or the master. And also remember that insulation should not greatly increase the weight of the balcony, otherwise it may collapse.
If your balcony is reliably protected from moisture from the street, and the base floor is sufficiently flat and dry, then it is cheaper to refine and insulate it with wood at the same time. Planks can be laid directly on a concrete base or fixed on specially installed joists. In this version of insulation, it is preferable to use a coniferous tree (its natural resinousness will increase moisture resistance) and it is necessary to arrange a slope in the flooring to drain accidentally moisture. If you need to insulate the wooden flooring itself, then with good waterproofing, ordinary mineral wool will do, and with high-quality sealing of joints - foam.
As a heater under a tile or tile, it is better to choose one that is not afraid of laying under a screed (polystyrene, polystyrene, penoplex, basalt mineral wool or "warm floor"). However, the construction of a concrete screed together with the laying of tiles on the floor of the balcony will ultimately significantly increase its weight, and this, as you know, is unsafe. For thermal insulation of the floor under linoleum, a sufficiently strong, springy and having good water-repellent properties insulation is needed - such as penoplex. It is possible to insulate the floor under the laminate on the balcony with expanded clay, and foam, and mineral wool, and plywood, and even foil - depending on whether it will be laid on a concrete or wooden base. Well, the most environmentally friendly, the most durable and at the same time the most expensive insulation option is cork panels.
As for the installation of insulation, the easiest to install are heat-insulating plates made of polystyrene, foam, polystyrene and mineral wool. It will be more difficult to equip active floor heating, which is recommended to be insulated with polypropylene, expanded polystyrene, cork panels and metallized lavsan film.
How to insulate a balcony: step by step instructions
Making the floor on the balcony warm, but not glazing it and not insulating the walls with the ceiling, is like throwing money away. Especially if it has a sunroof or panoramic windows. Only competent thermal insulation of all balcony surfaces without exception and the connection with their further high-quality finishing will allow you to stably keep the room temperature level there even in winter and even without heating. And by inserting the second glass into the window frame, you can make the balcony suitable for living, and this will increase its chances of joining the room according to the law, which is especially valuable in a small-sized "Khrushchev" building. By the way, the balcony will look especially advantageous if the space of it and the adjacent room is combined with the help of a stained-glass window or a partition - so the play of light, color and shadows can decorate and diversify both of these rooms
It is necessary to install insulation on the balcony floor only after installing high-quality glazing, sealing all cracks, removing the previous floor covering and thoroughly cleaning the room from debris and dust. If it is necessary to wash the floor, then work on its thermal insulation is possible only after the concrete of the balcony base is completely dry.
In addition to insulation, you may need a hammer, a construction knife, a jigsaw (preferably electric), a construction gun, dowels, a drill, self-tapping screws, a puncher and, of course, a tape measure with a pencil for marking.
Having prepared all the necessary materials and tools, you can start laying insulation for the floor on the balcony without heating:
- fill all irregularities in the base with epoxy resin or sand-cement mortar;
- the joints of the floor and walls are filled with polyurethane foam or a solution of cement with sand;
- we primer the area prepared for insulation and let the primer dry out;
- we waterproof the balcony base (prevents moisture drops from condensation);
- we install wooden logs (to the height of the door threshold - for easy connection to a room adjacent to the balcony);
- we lay out the required number of layers of the selected insulation between the lags;
- we fix a vapor-permeable diffuse waterproofing membrane;
- we lay plywood or boardwalk for installing the topcoat;
- we mount boards, linoleum, tiles, laminate or other selected material as a topcoat and fix the skirting boards.
For an active insulation device (such as a warm floor), the procedure after laying the insulation will be different.
All insulation plates must be tightly joined with each other (to cover the entire floor), and with waterproofing covering them. We put reinforcing elements on top (strengthen the outer part of the balcony), fill the screed along the exposed beacons, carefully level it and dry it for at least 6 hours (you can safely walk on it in a day). Then we fasten the mounting tape with the dowel-nails (we use the previously marked and drilled holes) and lay the heating cable of the "warm floor" on it with a snake.
By the way, it is more convenient to start laying the cable from the final section, putting a plug there, and end it by connecting it to the power supply network using a thermostat. After securely fixing the heating cable to the mounting tape, install the beacons again, fill in another level of the subfloor screed and let it dry completely.
Cover " warm floor"The balcony can be finished with laminate, tiles or other material only after the screed is completely dry - this will avoid deformation and do without mold. Usually the process of drying a cement screed takes about 7 days - provided that the beacons have been set correctly. at this time it is warm outside, you can open the windows - this way the floor will dry out faster and gain the necessary strength, but in winter the screed should be dried only with the shutters closed.
We warm inside
Without meticulous hermetic sealing of all the cracks at the joints of literally all surfaces of the balcony, its further internal thermal insulation is meaningless. But its competent device allows you to avoid the occurrence " cold bridges"and helps to shift the freezing points of the balcony from the inside to the outside.
No less important is the high-quality waterproofing of concrete elements of the walls, ceiling and floor of the balcony, with the installation of the ebb and the processing of the window frame hydrophobic antiseptics- especially if you don't want to find fungus or mold in any corner of it and at the same time safely maintain a comfortable temperature and ventilation on the balcony. Therefore, you should not ignore the vapor barrier of the insulation - the vapor barrier placed in front of it will not allow unwanted moisture accumulation and will provide the required degree of air circulation. In addition, good internal thermal insulation helps to get rid of extraneous street noise.
When choosing insulation for the inner space of the balcony, you need to pay attention to the coefficient of its thermal conductivity. For modern materials for thermal insulation, its average indicator is 0.03-0.04 W / mS, and the higher this value, the lower the thermal insulation qualities will be. This means that for insulation of the balcony it is worth choosing materials with a minimum value of thermal conductivity, but high cost, or simply increasing the thickness of the insulation, which will inevitably lead to a loss of the usable area of the balcony.
We insulate outside
It is believed that the external insulation of the balcony not only allows you to save its usable area due to the use of thin insulation on the inside, but also helps to save almost 30% of the cost of heating the apartment. However, residents of high-rise buildings will be able to use such external insulation only with the help of industrial climbers. But using various materials in the decoration of the balcony, the owners will be able to significantly change its appearance and even its configuration.
After insulating the balcony structures, there are ample opportunities for changing its functionality and interesting solutions in the design of its interior. By connecting an insulated balcony to the living area of the apartment, you can arrange a cozy office, a hookah room, a corner for children's activities, a dining area or even a small spa. When the balcony is warm, dry and comfortable, the development of its space depends only on the imagination and capabilities of its owners.
Our video will tell you about how to cut, lay and fix the insulation made of polythene foam. We wish you a pleasant renovation!
The balconies are a small outdoor seating area in the summer. From a small space, you can make a wonderful corner for relaxation. However, it should be borne in mind that there will be no point in insulating the floor if the balcony remains open to the outside. Therefore, before insulating the floor, you need to close the balcony. Warm floor on the balcony is simple and cheap.
Underfloor heating device
If you want to make floor insulation, you can't do without special tricks and technologies. There are many ways to insulate the floor on the balcony, but one of the most effective is using the "warm floor" system. The main feature of this invention is that it works on the principle of the so-called heating pad. This is a very useful invention, because it is forbidden to install a heating system on balconies that works by pumping water. All this is for the safety of the building.
This method of insulating a balcony is widely used by clients who have a habit of catching colds often. It is also extremely effective for people with allergies and bronchial asthma. The fact is that the floor, although it increases the temperature of the air around it, has practically no effect on the humidity of the latter due to the fact that it has a relatively low surface temperature. Also, when using such floors, the amount of dust in the insulated room is significantly reduced. An extremely useful characteristic for allergy sufferers and asthmatics.
Peculiarities
Heat transfer along the floor is carried out using an electric cable, which is also a heating element. Next, we insulate the entire device from the inside with a concrete screed within 3-8 cm. It is important to note that when assembling the heating element, the distance between the cables inside must be uniform. This will help to distribute heat evenly and also increase the assurance that the cable will not overheat.
The most important thing in such an assembly is that when insulating the floor, the cable does not need to be laid immediately, but on a kind of heat insulator. As a heat insulator in Khrushchev, you can use a simple aluminum foil with an artificial material attached to it. This is done so that the warm air flows only upward, that is, onto the insulated balcony. If you ignore this advice, then in the end it turns out that some of the heat will warm the neighbors from below the ceiling.
Heating elements are of two types - single-core and two-core cables. They differ in physical characteristics and electromagnetic conductivity.
In order to make high-quality insulation of the floor on the balcony, it is necessary to use cables of fixed length. The main secret is that the power of the heat release depends on the length of the heating element itself. Therefore, if you lay the cable under the tile, then you need to take into account how well the ceramic retains heat. Another important element when calculating the cable is the thickness of the walls, the area of the room, and the presence or absence of a ceiling with a hatch.
Here are some technical tips to help you solve your calculations:
- If you plan to heat the balcony with the help of other heating devices, then the average power should be enough if it is in the range of 140-180 W per square meter;
- When installing other heaters, 80-150 W should be enough;
- In the presence of wooden floors, a power of 80-100 watts will be enough.
These tips will help you save extra energy and prevent the heating element from overheating.
Types of coatings
To answer the question of how to insulate the floor on the balcony, you also need to know which floor will retain more heat. Nobody wants to waste half of the electricity, and they would also like the coating to last as long as possible.
The leaders in heat transfer are considered to be floors covered with ceramic tiles. It is a well-known fact that ceramic tiles, like bricks, are capable of retaining and retaining heat for a long time. Also, ceramics is a fairly durable material.
Ceramic tiles are followed by linoleum or carpet. These two materials retain heat slightly worse, but change them in case of deformation is much easier than ceramic materials like slabs.
Wood flooring is in the last place on the list for heat dissipation. These coatings do not retain heat in the best way, moreover, they are extremely short-lived. With constant heating, the wood dries up and soon the wood flooring will disappoint you. Such a coating also has a small advantage - it is a quick change in its temperature. That is, it will be much faster to warm up a wooden floor "from scratch" than its counterparts in the form of ceramic tiles and linoleum.
Features of the structure
It is necessary to lay the foil on the floor, but it is extremely important to cover all the gaps between the floor and the adjacent wall with putty. There is one more important rule to remember when insulating your balcony floor. Do not place the heating element directly on top of the foil. There must be a thin layer of cement between the foil and the cable. This moment must be fulfilled and in no case ignored, because this is part of the safety precautions.
If you want to make the concrete screed as flat as possible, then use a better level. Draw a uniform line on the wall using this device - a limiter along which you will be guided when pouring concrete. Next, fill the floor, leave a spare 0.5 cm and level it. This distance is necessary in order to use the so-called "liquid floor". An excellent invention that, when dry, will give an absolutely flat floor, and will save you a lot of time and nerves.
How to insulate?
It is not enough to run the heating element across the floor. You also need to consider the materials that will best retain heat. Today there are a lot of such materials. There are, both expensive and beautiful, and very cheap, and inconspicuous.
This type of insulation is called passive, since it does not use any cunning devices and is rather primitive. The basic principle is that the material itself is installed in the places that you want to insulate. Due to its properties to keep warm and not let the cold out from the outside, this option is great for people with an average income.
Here is a list of the most popular and affordable building insulators:
- penofol;
- Styrofoam;
- foamed polystyrene foam;
- mineral wool.
The most advanced and innovative material is penofol. This material is a polyethylene foam covered with a protective aluminum film. This substance is quite flexible, so it is extremely convenient to work with such a coating. There are two types of foam foam - with one-sided aluminum coating and double-sided.
Naturally, double-sided penofol has a wider range of useful qualities. One of them is protection against condensation formation. The production of the material and its storage is carried out in rolls, therefore, a special aluminum film is used to eliminate the joints. There is no need to be afraid that in case of bending it will deform, therefore this invention is at the top of the list for keeping warm and convenient in work.
If you want to achieve the maximum result in floor insulation with the help of a minimum cost, then among the materials, foam is best suited. It is considered the cheapest and most common, as insulation, along with penoplex. In addition, it is easily accessible, and it is extremely easy to transport it due to its extraordinary lightness. The good thing about styrofoam is that you can get it in all sizes and thicknesses, but the downside is that it is quite tough and brittle. When working with him, this must be taken into account. Otherwise, the cost of purchasing a thermal insulator will exceed the expected cost.
Another analogue of foam is extruded polystyrene. This material is practically the same cost as regular foam. Initially, it was created just for insulation and has become widespread due to its availability and low cost. Unlike pure foam, extruded polystyrene is more flexible and lightweight. Its main advantages are that it does not rot, is not subject to inflammation, and fungus and mold do not start in it.
One of the oldest, most reliable and proven materials on this list is mineral wool. Basically, it is made from fiberglass, although it happens that it is also made from basalt threads. The main difference and indisputable advantages is that mineral wool does not absorb moisture, does not burn, in general, does not react to almost any chemistry, and is also not a receptacle for mold and other living organisms. A huge plus is that it, like the material, is soft and can be used anywhere. Even though the coating is crooked, rock wool will handle it perfectly.
It is important that due to the special structure of the material, it is necessary to work with gloves in order to avoid unpleasant sensations. The fact is that the substance from which the cotton wool is made consists of fibers that are fragile and sharp in nature. On contact with the skin, they break off immediately, causing itching and discomfort. Therefore, it is imperative to observe safety precautions and wear gloves.
Training
It is imperative to start with the preparation of the floor. In order to properly make thermal insulation and not waste all efforts in vain, it is important to consider that the floor should be as even as possible and not contain cracks.
Experts advise to make a floor screed before starting insulation work. However, before proceeding with this preparatory stage, the administration of the house should clarify whether it will be safe to weight the balcony. If they give their consent to the repair work, then it will be possible to get down to business without fear. Otherwise, you will have to level the floor and cover up the cracks in another way.
How to insulate with your own hands?
For insulation, some options are available to us using expanded clay. The main thing to learn here is that, despite the strength of the house, you should not overdo it with the screed. You need to make it as thin as possible. Thus, the coating must be just thin enough so that it does not crack, and it must be quite durable. Basically, repairmen use expanded clay and perlite in their arsenal to carry out this kind of work. However, pearlite is not always convenient to use when space is limited. This is due to the fact that perlite needs to be kneaded in a concrete mixer. For this reason, more often expanded clay is used in confined spaces.
Here's a step-by-step guide to help you prepare the solution yourself:
- Three parts of refined sand, because the solution should last more than one year, so it is recommended to use only construction sand, and not recruited "in nature";
- One part of expanded clay and one part of cement. In the case when there is a need to reduce the specific gravity of the solution, then part of the expanded clay is reduced;
- One tenth of lime.
If the apartment has a balcony, then it would probably be unwise not to take advantage of this opportunity to slightly expand the usable area of housing. With the right approach to business, you can equip a small workshop there, partially bring the kitchen into this room, or even convert the balcony into a small office or resting place. - this is one of the most important stages of its transformation into a living room.
This is all the more relevant since the process of warming and the associated re-equipment is not so complicated, so it is quite possible to carry it out on your own. However, it will be useless without preparatory measures. And the first thing that needs to be done before proceeding with the insulation is to strengthen or re-fold the outer wall and install the frames.
Preparatory work
- You need to start with an audit - you may need to take certain steps to strengthen it.
This largely depends, of course, on the very design of the balcony. If it does not have a bottom support, then it may make sense to reinforce the plate with brackets-supports. However, this process is far from always possible - you will have to coordinate with the neighbors living in the apartment located below. And some additional structures on their own territory will please few people.
Sometimes an additional metal frame is arranged on top of the concrete slab, which is securely fixed to the wall of the house. In this case, a significant part of the load is removed from the concrete floor slab.
If the balcony slab rests on both sides on concrete supports (walls), then there should be no further problems.
- An important point is what material the outer wall of the balcony is made of. If it is just a metal lattice sheathed with some kind of thin sheet material, then, most likely, you will have to lay out a wall made of lightweight foam concrete. It must not be forgotten that this is only possible if the floor slab is supported by vertical concrete walls on both sides. In any case, such work should not be carried out without the consent of the architectural services - the margin of safety at the balcony may simply not be enough.
If the outer partition is concrete, then it certainly does not need to be strengthened.
- Any further work on it will be meaningless if this room is not glazed. This means that the next step should be the installation of balcony frames. What they will be - ordinary wooden, or modern metal-plastic with double-glazed windows - for the owner of the apartment to decide, based on his own preferences and financial capabilities.
- Having installed the balcony frames, you can start sealing cracks and cracks - this process is necessary to protect the balcony room from moisture penetration. It is no secret that even at the joints of the capital slabs, quite large gaps are sometimes observed - and this is a direct path to the penetration of dampness, soaking of insulation materials, the appearance of mold, and the development of further erosion of building materials.
If the gaps between the plates are wide enough, then long round rollers of various diameters, made of polyethylene foam, can be used to seal them. They are pushed tightly into the gaps, and then the joint is sealed from above with a sealant.
Such insulating rollers are also used in order to save polyurethane foam. For embedding in this way, a small amount of foam is applied in the gap and then immediately laid polyethylene foam roller. When expanding, the polyurethane foam tightly "seals" all small cracks and at the same time adheres well to the sealing material.
If there are small gaps, they are filled with ordinary sealant.
In addition to sealing the cracks at the joints of the balcony, it is necessary to get rid of all cracks and potholes that can be found on the floor and in the lower part of the wall.
These flaws must be thoroughly cleaned of dust, dirt, small solid fragments, be sure to cover with a primer for better adhesion. Then, they are filled with a sealant or a special cement-adhesive mortar. If the slots are narrow, then they must be widened using a drill with a perforator or a grinder with a circle on a stone - this is necessary for a deeper penetration of the repair compound into the slot of the slab or wall.
After the repair compounds have dried, they proceed to priming the entire surface of the slab and the lower part of the walls (to a height of 150 ÷ 200 mm), if the walls are all concrete. If the outer wall is made of foam blocks, it should be primed completely, to its full height.
Waterproofing works
In any case, the next step is to arrange a reliable waterproofing on the entire floor area of the balcony and on the lower part of the walls. Some owners, probably in order to save money or time, prefer to do without this preparatory stage. It is necessary to warn them - by abandoning waterproofing measures, they significantly increase the risk of moisture penetration under the insulation. This will lead to a sharp loss of thermal insulation qualities - the balcony will become cold. And besides, this is the likely appearance of fungus and mold, which can spread to the walls and flooring. Better not to risk it - waterproofing will not take much time and money!
Waterproofing can be done in several ways. There are many options, and the most affordable and simple ones will be given below.
Cast waterproofing
Such waterproofing is performed using various compounds - it can be "liquid glass", foam epoxy, bitumen perlite and many others. All of these formulations are poured onto the surface and spread using a squeegee or roller. Methods for applying cast waterproofing may vary slightly - some formulations are applied hot and others cold.
Cast waterproofing is usually applied in several layers, and its thickness can be up to 2 ÷ 3 mm. The next layer is applied only after the previous one has completely dried.
Before installing this waterproofing, the floor is well dried, bumpers with a height of 200 ÷ 250 mm are installed along the walls from a special thin waterproofing material or from an ordinary polyethylene film.
If such waterproofing is arranged "hot", then the composition is heated to the desired temperature, gently puddles on the floor surface and quickly smoothed with a squeegee. Reinforcing mesh or fiberglass can be laid between the layers, then the waterproofing will be stronger.
When applying the compositions in a cold form, the process is carried out in the same way, but the composition is not preheated. In this case, drying of each of the layers will take much longer than with the hot method.
Coating waterproofing
Coating or painting waterproofing can be carried out using bitumen mastics, polymer varnishes, "liquid rubber" and other compounds specially designed for this. This process is quite simple, but such insulation perfectly protects concrete surfaces from dampness.
The compositions are applied to a necessarily degreased and primed surface with a brush or brush. After complete solidification, they form a dense film on the concrete slab.
This type of waterproofing can also be applied hot and cold:
- cold applied "", made on the basis of artificial rubber, as well as waterproofing on an epoxy basis;
- polymer-bitumen and bitumen compositions are applied hot.
The surface is always covered with these compounds in at least two layers.
Such waterproofing fully complies with the characteristics necessary to protect the floor. It is important to note that a pure bitumen coating will last only five to seven years, since it does not tolerate low temperatures and will surely crack. Therefore, for balconies, it is better to choose waterproofing on a rubber or polymer-bitumen basis - these compounds are quite elastic and will last much longer.
Film waterproofing
This method is the easiest, as the plastic wrap is affordable and easy to install. A dense material is chosen and a solid sheet is laid on the floor surface, raising it to the walls above the height of the future floor by 50 ÷ 100 mm. Fix the film on the wall with masking tape.
However, there is one "but" - this material can be used only if the insulation or the crate under it will not be attached through the film, that is, the film should not be damaged under any circumstances.
When laying at the corners, it must be very carefully rolled up - you cannot cut the film.
Oleechnaya (roll) waterproofing
Waterproofing materials are produced in rolls or sheets. They are glued to the floor surface and on the walls on a height of 150 ÷ 200 cm. Such insulation can be based on bitumen or polymer-bitumen. It is not difficult to lay this option, however, you will need to heat the adhesive layer with a gas burner or a building hair dryer.
It is preliminarily applied to the concrete surface with a layer of 1.5-2 mm, which is then warmed up, and a waterproofing material is glued to the hot composition.
If necessary, then several layers of material are laid, which are coated with mastic. In this case, the canvases of the second layer are recommended to be arranged perpendicular to the first.
After laying the top, last layer, the edges of the waterproofing material are treated with a polymer-based putty.
Another option for waterproofing is a roll material made using modern technologies and having a special adhesive strip.
When laying overlapping strips of this roll material, a protective film is first removed from the back of the cloths. The canvas is applied with an adhesive layer to the surface and is well pressed.
When the base is ready, you can proceed to the heating work.
The choice of insulation
It is very important to choose the right one from a wide variety of materials for insulation the most optimal.
One of the main operational parameters of any thermal insulator is the thermal conductivity coefficient - the lower this value, the better the material in terms of keeping heat in the premises:
Expanded clay
In three different flavors:
- Large-fraction option - for backfilling between the joists before covering the floors with boards or plywood.
- Medium fractional expanded clay - for cooking expanded clay concrete, which can also be laid between the joists, on which boards or plywood sheets will later be fixed. In addition, expanded clay concrete can, after pouring, and simply be leveled along the beacons - in this case, it will be suitable as a basis for laying ceramic tiles.
Fine-graded expanded clay - an ideal material for "dry" screed - Fine-grained expanded clay is used most often for a bulk floor that is covered gypsum fiber plates (GVL).
Expanded clay prices
Expanded clay
Penoflex
Penoflex is a rolled polyethylene foam. It is produced both with a foil surface and without it. Usually, when insulating a balcony, this material is used as an auxiliary material, fixing it on the walls and floor over the waterproofing. First, it is attached to double-sided tape, and then a crate is laid on top of it.
The foil surface of the insulation does not allow heat to escape into the walls - it is reflected back towards the room.
Penoflex canvases are fastened together with foil tape, which makes the coating a single web.
On top of this reflective material, any insulation can be laid between the logs - it can be polystyrene, mineral wool, ecowool or dry expanded clay.
Mineral wool
Mineral wool is the most common and often used insulation, since it has all the necessary qualities for use in a balcony - low thermal conductivity, light weight, ease of installation, and most importantly, the environmental friendliness of the material.
Mineral wool is probably the best material for floor insulation Mineral wool mats, straightening out during installation, close all the gaps, so they do not need to be additionally sealed with polyurethane foam.
The general definition of "mineral wool" includes: glass wool, stone wool and slag wool. All of them have excellent insulation and soundproofing qualities. Ca = my easy-to-use is probably basalt stone wool - it is harmless to the skin of the hands.
If desired, this insulation can be used in combination with other materials, which will give an increased thermal insulation effect.
Expanded polystyrene
Everyone probably knows what styrofoam (expanded polystyrene) looks like, since it is often used to insulate buildings from the outside and from the inside.
Insulation is produced with different indicators of density and thickness. The lower the density, the higher the insulating effect, but the more fragile and crumbling the material becomes - this must be remembered when choosing it to insulate the balcony.
Polyfoam is very light in weight and quite easy to install. It can be easily cut with a regular utility knife, which makes it easy to adjust the slabs to the desired size. Another advantage of this insulation is its low price.
When installing the material between the lag bars, gaps may form, which must be sealed with polyurethane foam, otherwise the insulating effect will be significantly reduced.
Polyfoam can also be used in combination with any of the existing heaters.
Vapor barrier
If the insulation was carried out with mineral wool, it is recommended to lay a vapor barrier film on top of it, which will not allow moisture to penetrate into the insulation, but will facilitate its evaporation from the inside, that is, it will enable the material to "breathe".
The film is stretched and attached to the logs with staples clogged with a stapler. In the above diagram, the vapor barrier film is shown under No. 5.
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Carrying out floor insulation on the balcony
Today, there are a considerable number of insulation methods for turning a cold balcony into even a small, but cozy room.
Insulation of a floor with a crate
The process of warming with the use of various insulation materials can be carried out according to the same principle. For example, when using expanded clay, polystyrene foam or mineral wool, it is recommended to make a lathing of bars or boards with a thickness of 20 ÷ 25 mm.
First you need to figure out how to install it correctly, how to fasten it and how to raise the crate elements to the desired height.
- The first step is to determine the height to which the floor will be raised, minus the thickness of the coating (floorboards or plywood). Usually, the floor is raised to the height of the threshold of the doorway.
- Next, you need to decide in what way the floor will be raised to the desired height:
- due to the width of the boards;
- by installing the bars in two layers;
- the bars will be raised to the level of the threshold using special metal or plastic holders-stands, or wooden pads.
- Having chosen one of the installation methods, it is necessary to prepare all the elements of the sheathing by marking and sawing boards or bars.
- Then, the details must be treated with an antiseptic compound, which will protect the wood from biodegradation and the influence of moisture.
- After the tree has been prepared and dried, you can proceed to the installation of the sheathing on the floor.
Option number 1
Special U-shaped elements made of a bent metal strip are used as racks. In the gap between the two shelves, a bar is fixed, raised to the desired height - for this, holes are provided for self-tapping screws.
Such racks are installed at a distance of 500 ÷ 600 mm from each other, first along the walls, and then one or two more rows, depending on the width of the balcony, in the center. The holders are fixed to the concrete floor with anchors.
Then, cuts are made in the insulation mats (if mineral wool is used) at the same distance as the shelves of the holder are divorced, and then they are "put on" on a metal element and pressed to the floor. When the insulation is put on all the racks, the remaining open floor between the rows is also densely filled with insulation material.
If necessary, the second layer is laid in the same way.
Option number 2
Another option for raising the lathing to the desired height is with studs. They are screwed into the inserts installed in the concrete floors. The convenience of this method of fastening is that the protruding upper part has a thread, with which the lags can be adjusted and set to the desired height. They are also displayed according to the building level. The excess part of the stud, which remains on top, is cut off using grinders.
In this version, the insulation is easy to lay up to the upper level of the log and after installing the studs.
Instead of metal pins, PVC stands are often used, which are screwed into the holes in the logs. However, in order to use such stands, it is necessary to use sufficiently wide bars for the manufacture of logs, since the plastic stands have a much larger diameter than the studs.
On the outside of the tubes of such supports, there is a thread with which they are screwed in and adjusted in the bars.
Option number 3
If there is no desire or opportunity to tinker with the above-described stands, you can use a structure made yourself from bars. However, in order for the floor raised with this lathing to be even, it is necessary to have a perfectly horizontal surface of the concrete slab, since it will not be possible to adjust its individual elements. The fastening of the bars in this design is carried out using metal corners. In addition, the bars running along the walls are anchored to them.
If the floor is not very level, then you can level the floor along the top of the battens. To do this, you need to beat off a perfectly flat line on the wall and fix the side bars along it. If one of the legs on which the crate rests rises above the surface of the floor slab, then a piece of plywood or a thin board must be placed under it.
Option number 4
If the floor is not planned to be raised too high, then a crate of two layers of bars, laid perpendicular to each other, will do. The first row is fixed to the prepared surface, and the second is attached to the bars of the first row.
Lags of the first row are often glued to the surface of a concrete slab using polyurethane foam. It is recommended to fasten the second row to the first one only after laying the insulation between the guides,
Option number 5
The easiest way to arrange a crate for raising the floor on the balcony is the option using wide, flat and thick boards, which are attached to the balcony slab, as well as to each other, using a metal corner. The main thing is to find a suitable dried material and set the finished crate according to the level.
When installing the structure, the boards are installed on the edge with an indent from the walls of 50 ÷ 70 mm. Insulation must be installed in these gaps - this is necessary to create a warm layer between the walls and the floor lathing.
Between the guides of the crate, for any method of its arrangement, an insulating material is poured or laid. In the case of using expanded polystyrene, the remaining gaps are either sealed with polyurethane foam, or tightly caulked with mineral wool.
After the insulation between the lags is completely laid, it is recommended to lay a layer of film on top - it will not allow dust or small particles of insulation material to penetrate into the room from below. After that, you can proceed to the subfloor flooring or immediately - "clean" floorboards.
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Floor insulation without lathing
This type of floor insulation includes a bulk floor made using the "" technology. Recently, this approach has been increasingly used to insulate floors in private houses and apartments. It is also quite suitable for the conditions of the balcony.
When deciding to arrange a bulk floor, a polyethylene waterproofing layer will be required. It can be used in addition to other types of waterproofing.
A layer of film - required for backfilling dry insulation The film along the entire perimeter of the balcony is fixed to the wall with double-sided tape, and then a damper tape is glued, which compensates for everything fluctuations in the size of the floor covering with temperature changes when the material can expand.
In addition, you need to install beacons on the walls, according to which, using the rule, the bulk material will be equal.
After the base for the "dry screed" is arranged, you can pour out expanded clay in parts just above the level of the installed beacons.
Leveling the surface when backfilling the "dry screed" Then, the poured mass is leveled, and special gypsum fiber panels are placed on top of it, on which there are special locking parts for mutual connection.
For fixation between each other, the joints of the plates are glued with "liquid nails" or other polymer adhesives.
On top of such an insulated floor, you can put almost any topcoat that would be appropriate on the balcony.
Finishing floor covering
The floor covering, laid on the insulated balcony floor, will become another layer that will help maintain a comfortable indoor temperature.
The covering of the insulated floor can be chosen according to the taste of the owner of the apartment, but it is better to use a material that can create a comfortable feeling when walking on it, even without shoes.
A wooden floor will be especially effective, since wood has a natural warmth due to its multi-layered structure. Therefore, such a coating is most often found on insulated balconies.
Plywood is also well suited for covering, which, after laying, is covered with carpet, laminate or warm linoleum.
Video: work on floor insulation on a balcony or loggia
It is quite possible to carry out work on the insulation of the floor on the balcony on your own. Slowly, following the step-by-step guidance within the chosen option, even in the absence of experience, you can cope with this work in 3 ÷ 5 days.
Solving the problem of energy saving in residential premises, it is necessary to coordinate many diverse tasks with each other. Among them - the effectiveness of thermal insulation, safety issues, compliance with important dimensions. How to insulate the floor on a balcony or loggia in order to use this space as a living space? There is no one answer for all occasions. In this article, we will look at the main modern technologies and the boundaries of their capabilities. We will present the features of the application of each type of thermal insulation from the point of view of:
- the order of work and the materials used;
- reaching high-altitude marks;
- convenience of surface preparation for various types of floor coverings;
- difficulty level.
This spray material is a champion in heat saving: 2% to 5% better insulating properties than extruded polystyrene foam, which ranks second. However, this technology is almost never used to insulate balconies. The economic feasibility of using special equipment is manifested when working on areas of at least several tens of square meters. In some cases, it makes sense to carry out insulation of this type in rooms with attached loggias. The work is being carried out on wooden battens. Above, the rough covering is completed by slabs of moisture-resistant plywood.
The technology is not suitable for independent use.
The use of mineral wool
Not the most obvious material for insulating floors. Nevertheless, in some cases it will be correct to use it.
In addition to rolled cotton wool or mats, you will need a piece of wood 40 mm wide and with a height corresponding to the thickness of the insulator used. For example, it can be a 40 × 70 mm molding. Chipboard, OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood are used as a substrate for the finishing flooring, mounted with a gap of about 3 mm relative to each other. The minimum permissible thickness of all listed boards is 16 mm. If the balcony is not planned to be connected to living quarters or to equip floor heating on it, then work should be started by applying a layer of liquid or roll waterproofing to concrete.
First, transverse jumpers are cut from the timber, which are installed with an interval of no more than 60 cm. If the insulation is carried out in one layer, then the jumpers must be set in the horizontal plane using pads. When using the second layer, only the upper longitudinal beams are leveled with mounting wedges. The distance between the longitudinal moldings should not exceed 50 cm. It is not required to achieve the abutment of the beams to the walls. Let's say a gap of up to 10 cm (this applies to both layers of the structure). The lower lintels are attached to the concrete with anchors, the upper ones - to the lower ones with self-tapping screws. After installing the slabs and foaming the gaps between their ends and walls, the stage of the rough insulated floor is considered complete.
It makes no sense to use mineral wool less than 70 mm thick for floor insulation on the balcony. Thus, the minimum change in height during the roughing phase is about 90 mm (counting from the top of the concrete base). But, given the not the best hygroscopicity of this heat insulator, it is still better to insulate the floor with cotton wool in 2 layers. Then the total thickness of the structure will be 160 - 200 mm, depending on the section of the beams and the thickness of the slabs.
Linoleum, laminate (with backing) and carpet can be laid on chipboard, plywood and OSB without any additional preparation. Installation of ceramic tiles is difficult. It is possible with a special glue after increasing the adhesion of the plates with the help of serpyanka fasteners, a primer in several layers, or flooring of additional materials - gypsum fiber board, cement-bonded particle board, glass magnesite sheets.
In general, the technology up to the stage of the subfloor and even laying the topcoat (with the exception of ceramic tiles) is quite simple and quite within the power of a non-professional. However, you still need help - at least for transporting the slab materials to the apartment.
How to insulate the floor on the balcony with penoplex
One of the simplest and most effective technologies. Penoplex slabs are glued to a dust-free and primed concrete base. A special cut at the ends avoids cold bridges. The gaps between the walls and the foam are carefully foamed. It is best to use a glue-foam compound that can do both. It is important that the product does not contain toluene (this component destroys polystyrene foam).
For the last 10 years, extruded high-density foam has been the standard for insulating floors for subsequent facing with ceramic tiles. With this material, you can achieve the smallest possible change in elevation.
Thus, a 40 mm thick slab provides approximately the same level of heat saving as a 60 - 70 mm layer of mineral wool after a year of operation.
High strength properties allow, subject to certain conditions, to lay some finishing coatings on the penoplex without an intermediate cement-sand screed. What are these conditions? First, the expanded polystyrene must adhere to the adhesive layer over the entire area. Secondly, it is not necessary to use "foam glue", but a mixture such as tile adhesive for a comb. Thirdly, only laminate floors can be installed without screed. A layer of polyethylene film is laid between the elastic backing and the penoplex (the film joints are sealed with tape).
Scheme of floor insulation on the balcony with penoplex from the manufacturer's official instructions
Laying linoleum and ceramic tiles requires arranging a screed over the foam. However, the minimum thickness of this fill is a debated issue. Manufacturers of polystyrene foam insulation recommend a layer of at least 45 - 50 mm. However, this is done to play it safe from claims. The construction practice of the last 5 - 7 years has shown that high-quality thin self-leveling fillings (1.5 cm - 2.0 cm) are quite sufficient preparation for the installation of ceramic tiles on penoplex. The screed is arranged "floating", that is, no nylon or metal mesh is used to increase adhesion. Only a polyethylene film is provided as a vapor barrier. The final alignment of the tiles can be carried out on the adhesive layer.
An alternative to the finishing screed is to use plywood sheets with a thickness of 10 - 12 mm.
Of course, the absence of finished concrete pouring, or the use of plywood instead is possible if the concrete slab of your balcony has a flat surface.
Within one day, you can do the insulation of the floor on the balcony with your own hands without outside help:
- bring light penoplex into the apartment,
- dust off the concrete base,
- glue the plates,
- fill up the cracks and
- lay polyethylene on top.
For some time it will be possible to walk (but not in high-heeled shoes, of course) on the insulation covered with a film - nothing will happen to him. You have time to calmly choose a topcoat and an experienced installation and screed master.
"Good old" styrofoam
Polyfoam is produced on the basis of the same polystyrene as materials such as foam. However, foams are inferior to extruded boards in terms of strength and hygroscopicity. The relatively low price is the only reason why foam plastics have not yet been ousted from the construction market by more modern insulation.
Due to the low strength, the insulation of floors with foam is carried out using wooden logs, as is the case with mineral wool. There are 2 differences in installing foam on the floor instead of cotton wool:
- The wooden beam must necessarily be higher than the layer of the material to be laid.
- The joints between the foam and the wood must be foamed.
Arrangement of electric underfloor heating on balconies and loggias
The only legal way of arranging heating in these zones is the installation of electric underfloor heating. The use of a special cable requires laying it in a concrete screed. Low power electric mats can be used directly under the topcoat.
Floor heating on a balcony or loggia makes sense if this room is not combined with a room, but it is planned to use it as a living room (for example, to equip a small office there). Due to the high glazing area (increased heat loss), it is correct to choose an electric underfloor heating in favor of a powerful cable. It is technologically expedient to provide floor insulation from extruded polystyrene foam under such heating. This solution is better than others in terms of the total cost of all work and materials. It is also optimal if you need to minimize the elevation increase.
Summary
The answer to the question "how to insulate the floor on the balcony?" depends, first of all, on two points: obtaining the required elevation and the desire to carry out the insulation yourself.
If it is required to minimize the layer of thermal insulation and simplify the work to the limit, it is necessary to choose penoplex. The desire to raise the floor level on the balcony flush with the room justifies the use of mineral wool on the logs in two layers.
However, if you have other thermal insulation materials left from previous repairs, it will be correct to prefer them for equipping the balcony.
And finally, if you are the proud owner of a covered terrace with an area of 20-30 sq. m., it is better to invite a team specializing in the insulation of structures and premises using sprayed materials.
A well-equipped balcony significantly increases the usable space, which is so lacking in city apartments. The main condition for such an arrangement is competent thermal insulation, which can be done on your own. The most time-consuming stage is floor insulation on the balcony, so it takes more time. You need to start work by studying the characteristics of popular heaters and how to install them.
Features of thermal insulation of the balcony
As the balcony protrudes outward, the floor slabs are constantly exposed to the environment. They freeze through, are heated by the sun, draw moisture from the air, and from this they are more and more destroyed. If, during insulation, the floor is covered with heavy material, and a thick layer of concrete screed is poured on top, the floors may not withstand and collapse. Incorrect preparation of the base also contributes to collapse, for example, if the reinforcing frame in the slab itself is damaged.
To avoid such complications, before starting work, you should very carefully check the condition of the balcony floors, the integrity of all its structures,
Moreover, it is necessary to take into account not only the weight, screeds and topcoat, but also the weight of the parapet, double-glazed windows, wall and ceiling decoration, as well as the furniture that will be furnished with the balcony. According to the regulations, d the permissible load on the balcony slabs is 200 kg / m2, provided that the condition of the plates is satisfactory.
Which insulation is better
Most often, balconies are insulated with mineral wool, penoplex, penofol and polystyrene - lightweight and easy-to-use materials.
Mineral wool perfectly retains heat, does not allow street noise to pass through, does not burn and does not emit harmful vapors, it is not damaged
A layer of cotton wool 4 cm thick in terms of thermal insulation properties corresponds to a brickwork 60 cm thick. It is produced in rolls and slabs, it is easy to fit, it lasts a long time. But at the same time, mineral wool is a very hygroscopic material, and after getting wet it completely loses its ability to retain heat. In addition, the porous structure promotes the development of microorganisms, which negatively affects the strength of the structure and the microclimate of the balcony. High-quality waterproofing of floors and the insulation itself will help to avoid this.
Penoplex and polystyrene have similar properties. They are available in slabs of various thicknesses and densities, installation does not require much effort, and such thermal insulation serves for years. Due to the presence of fire retardants in the composition, these materials do not burn, which is also a big plus. The difference between foam and foam is in a denser structure, increased thermal insulation properties and chemical inertness, so it is much more expensive.
Penofol is a polyethylene foam covered on one or both sides with aluminum foil. It is produced in rolls with a thickness of 3 to 10 mm, at the joints it is connected with aluminum tape. The material perfectly dampens sounds and does not allow moisture to pass through at all, but does not have the highest thermal insulation properties. For greater efficiency, it is laid together with other insulation, for example, expanded polystyrene plates.
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Preparation for work
The preparatory stage is very important, because the quality of floor insulation largely depends on this. Slots in the ceilings, mold in the corners, large irregularities on the concrete base will reduce the effectiveness of thermal insulation several times, money and time will be wasted. Therefore, you should work hard and conscientiously.
Step 1. Removing the cover
Boards, linoleum or other covering are removed and taken out. If the floor is tiled and has no defects and chips, it is simply cleaned of dust and debris. Cracked and peeling concrete screed must be knocked down to the floor slab, cracks along the perimeter of the floor must be expanded and cleaned of debris.
Step 2. Repair work
After removing the old floors, you should carefully examine the floor slabs and assess their condition. You also need to check the strength and integrity of the parapet, the joints of the balcony with the wall of the house. If necessary, the structures are strengthened, the joints are sealed with a solution or blown out with foam. Separate defects in the floor slabs are eliminated with the help of building mixtures, but if the base surface is too uneven, it is better with a layer of 3-4 cm. When the floor is hardened, the ceiling, walls and windows are insulated, but without finishing.
Step 3. Waterproofing the floor
Cover the dry and clean substrate with a primer and dry again, and then lay a waterproofing membrane or ordinary polyethylene film. The edges of the film must be brought 10 cm onto the walls and fixed with a stapler; adjacent pieces of film are overlapped, and the seams are glued with tape. You can use a coating waterproofing: the screed cleaned of dust is treated with a liquid bitumen-based mastic, dried, and another layer is applied. After the mastic has dried, the floor is painted with a special polymer mixture.
Floor insulation procedure
For work you will need:
- jigsaw;
- drill with attachments;
- polyurethane foam;
- heat insulating material;
- polyurethane foam;
- construction knife;
- pencil, tape measure;
- plywood;
- primer for wood;
- bars 50x50 mm;
- self-tapping screws.
Step 1. Laying the first layer
Insulation sheets are taken, (penofol or expanded polystyrene sheet) are adjusted in size and laid on a waterproofing film. It is necessary to ensure that there are no gaps in the corners and at the joints - cold will penetrate through them. The seams between the plates should not coincide; for this, each sheet is shifted to the side.
Step 2. Installing lag
The processed ones are cut to the width of the floor and installed on insulation. The extreme beams should be located at the very walls, intermediate - every 50-60 cm. After that, a level is placed on the logs and the horizontal is checked. All the bars are set according to the level, after which they are fixed with self-tapping screws in at least 4 places. The extreme screws are screwed in at a distance of 7 cm from the ends of the beams.
Step 3. Laying the second layer of insulation
Now, between the beams, you need to tightly lay the second layer of material. The insulation is cut to the size of the cells and alternately inserted between the lags, trying not to make gaps. The heat-insulating layer should not rise above the beams, this will interfere with the installation of the topcoat. The resulting cracks are blown out with polyurethane foam.
Step 4. Finishing
If mineral wool is used for insulation, another layer of waterproofing is required, which will protect the insulation from condensation from the room. For foam and polystyrene foam, such protection is not needed. On top of the logs, plywood, pre-primed and dried, or boards with a thickness of 30 mm are stuffed. You can also close the insulation with a semi-dry or dry screed, but this will increase the load on the floors. Plywood and boards can be covered with linoleum, laid on them, or made a simple plank floor.
Insulation with penofol and expanded polystyrene
With combined insulation, the order of work is slightly different:
This concludes and begins the installation of the finished floor. If everything is done according to the rules, the balcony room will remain dry and warm even in severe frost. But the appearance of condensation will indicate an incorrectly selected thickness of insulation or poorly executed waterproofing.
Video - how to insulate the floor on the balcony