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Wiring diagram and rules for its installation. Do-it-yourself wiring installation: how to competently perform electrical work Performing internal wiring diagrams

For any repairs in an apartment, a private house or in a country house, as well as a breakdown of any electrical wiring element, you need to know exactly where the wires pass. Otherwise, this can lead to additional problems associated with finding electrical cables disguised in the wall, or, even worse, getting the tool into a live wire. In this case, it is desirable to have a wiring diagram. But as often happens, it is not at hand, since when buying your own home, no one is interested in this documentation. Therefore, it is advisable to understand the various options for power supply, since they are standard in multi-apartment buildings.

Wire connection options

A person who understands what awaits him in the process of independently drawing up an electrical wiring diagram or directly performing work on installing sockets, switches and light sources in his own apartment with his own hands should know the basic ways in which electrical circuits are connected.

If the homeowner does not understand at all in the field of arranging electrical circuits, then it is better to entrust all the installation work in the apartment to professional electricians who, in a short time, will draw up a clear plan, including even the smallest details, which will save on the purchase of consumables.

Video: cable laying diagram in the house

How the wiring is done

The choice of the scheme should be done with full awareness of the matter. First of all, this is due to the safety rules for the use of electrical circuits. There are three main layout options available today.

  1. The most popular way of wiring is to connect all the constituent elements of the network using junction boxes. Such a scheme provides for the installation of a shield on the landing in a specially equipped niche, and not in a residential area. A device for monitoring the consumed electricity and several bags are located in the dashboard. Electricity is supplied to the apartment by means of a cable, the wiring of which to rooms is carried out using junction boxes.
  2. The wiring diagram in the "Star" method implies that each element is connected with a separate line connected directly to the shield through an automatic toggle switch. With such a wiring, the consumption of wires, physical work and the cost of the project as a whole increase significantly. But after evaluating all the advantages and disadvantages, it becomes clear that all the costs are justified, since the system provides the ability to fully control each consumer separately.
  3. The “Loop” scheme is similar to the previous version of the wiring. In this version, there is only one distinctive feature, which consists in connecting several consumers to one cable. Thanks to this, the volume of installation work and consumables is reduced, which leads to a decrease in the cost of the project.

In most cases, the wiring diagram provides for a combination of several ways of laying cables at the same time. At the same time, it is very important to think over everything to the smallest detail in order to ultimately achieve maximum efficiency and safety of the electrical circuit.

Standard scheme

It is advisable to translate all ideas for arranging electrical circuits before starting installation work in a detailed diagram laid out on a sheet of paper. At the same time, it is important to take into account the layout of each individual room, which will allow you to calculate the number of distribution groups and elements of the power grid. For convenience, each group can be performed in a separate scheme.

From practice, it was revealed that the maximum efficiency of distribution is achieved by combining consumption sources into several groups, each of which is connected to a separate automatic bagger. Thanks to this technical solution, further repairs and maintenance of the electrical network is facilitated without the need to de-energize the entire apartment. In addition, the connection of all consumers to one line is possible only if there is a cable with a large cross-section, which is able to withstand the increased load that occurs when all electrical appliances in the apartment are turned on simultaneously.

When placing the panel directly in the living room, it becomes possible to connect electrical appliances to separate machines. This greatly improves the efficiency and safety of using the electrical network. But, in this case, why did not such a scheme find widespread use? Everything is quite simple - this option for connecting devices to the AC network significantly increases the costs of implementing the project. Therefore, consumers are divided into the following groups:

  • lighting group of living quarters and corridor;
  • supply of electricity to rooms;
  • electricity supply in the kitchen and corridor;
  • supply of light and electricity to the bathroom and the bathroom. Moreover, this group implies an increased danger due to constantly high humidity;
  • if the kitchen is equipped with an electric stove, then its connection must also be carried out separately.

To ensure maximum safety of electrical installations, each group must be equipped with an RCD - a special protective device, which is nothing more than a differential circuit breaker at maximum current values. Also, such protective devices must be equipped with wiring in the bathroom and in the kitchen.

After the final formation of the main groups, it is necessary to distribute in which places the consumers will be placed, such as an electric stove, a water heater, an air conditioner, etc. At the next stage, the marking of the installation of switches, junction boxes, lamps and sockets is performed. In this case, all the elements must be entered into the wiring diagram, on the basis of which the number of wires can be calculated.

It is very important that the schematic diagram of the wiring of electricity is drawn up in several copies, one of which must be saved for the future. After all the little things have been taken into account, you can draw up a detailed finishing drawing in accordance with the exact plan of each room.

All installation points of electrical elements are marked on the diagram in accordance with the generally accepted designation system and are connected by lines indicating wires. To improve the readability of the circuit, it is advisable to mark different groups of wires with different colors.

The circuit must necessarily include all dimensions of the premises, distances from the electrical panel to sockets, switches and lighting sources, etc. Such a detailed plan will allow, in the shortest possible time, to carry out high-quality installation work and the calculation of all the necessary consumables, which will make it possible to plan costs.

Video: electrical wiring diagram in the apartment

To correctly make an apartment wiring diagram, you should know some important requirements for laying wires in residential buildings.

  1. The bathroom is not supplied with sockets, except for one connected by means of a transformer for switching on low voltage appliances such as an electric shaver.
  2. It is inadmissible to connect the grounding socket to the zero terminal. It is also strictly forbidden to ground the wiring elements to the battery or water supply. It is unsafe for the tenants of the apartment.
  3. If a stove is installed in the kitchen, connected to an AC network or other powerful consumers, then the main machine must be of a large rating so that false alarms do not occur.
  4. Wiring should be done only vertically or horizontally.
  5. Changing the direction of the wiring can put a nail or drill into a live wire during repairs. It is also unacceptable to cross cables.
  6. It is important that the electrical wires run 15 cm from the surface of the floor or ceiling, as well as window and door frames and outside corners of the room.
  7. The distance from the heating pipes or water supply should not be less than 3 cm. The wiring to the outlet should come from the bottom, while to the switch from the top.

It is desirable that all self-installed sockets and switches are located at the same level. So, for sockets, the acceptable height from the floor is 30 cm, while for switches they recede from 80 cm to 1 m. Naturally, if necessary, these parameters can be changed according to the needs of the residents of the apartment.

How to make your own wiring

To lay electrical wires in an apartment, you must clearly follow the prepared diagram. At the same time, there is a certain sequence of doing such work with your own hands.

To properly connect the wires, he uses three different methods - using terminals, soldering or twisting, which can be viewed in the video. The first two are considered the most effective in use, since they are considered the most reliable and have a high degree of safety, although they are more difficult to do with your own hands.

Video: electrical wiring installation

Which wires to choose

To make the correct wiring in the apartment, you need to buy the right wires. At the same time, a copper cable is considered the best for wiring for the simple reason that it has maximum flexibility, is less brittle and has high current conductivity. It is also more convenient to mount it in contrast to its aluminum counterpart.

In apartments, in most cases, wires are laid with two or three conductors with a cross section of 2.5–3 square mm for sockets and 1.5 for switches and lamps. For more powerful consumers, a separate line is laid with wires of more than 3 mm square, which will allow them not to overheat.

The wiring diagram may well be drawn up and implemented independently. But the responsibility for the quality of its work and the safety of the residents will lie with the person who carried out the installation work. Therefore, at least minimal knowledge in this area is welcome.

Video: how to choose the right cable cross-section

Electricity is a serious and responsible business. If you are going to do all the work yourself, you need to do everything very carefully and diligently. Correct wiring in a private house is a guarantee of safety, because according to statistics, 70% of fires happen due to electrical faults. If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to entrust the work to specialists, only proven ones.

Action plan

The wiring in a private house is done before the start of finishing work. The box of the house has been kicked out, the walls and roof are ready - it's time to start work. The sequence of actions is as follows:

  • Determination of the input type - single-phase (220 V) or three-phase (380 V).
  • Development of the scheme, calculation of the capacity of the planned equipment, submission of documents and receipt of the project. Here it must be said that it is far from always in the technical conditions that the power declared by you will be determined, most likely no more than 5 kW will be allocated.
  • Selection of components and components, purchase of a meter, machines, cables, etc.
  • Electrician input from the pole into the house. It is carried out by a specialized organization, you need to decide on the type - air or underground, install an input machine and a counter in the right place.
  • Install the shield, bring electricity into the house.
  • Laying cables inside the house, connecting sockets, switches.
  • Arrangement of the ground loop and its connection.
  • Testing the system and obtaining an act.
  • Electrical connection and operation.

This is only a general plan, in each case there are nuances and features, but you need to start with obtaining the technical conditions for connecting to the power grid and the project. To do this, you need to decide on the type of input and the planned power consumption. It must be remembered that the preparation of documents can take six months, so it is better to submit them even before the start of construction: two years are given to fulfill the technical conditions. During this time, for sure, you will be able to kick out the wall on which you can put the machine gun and the counter.

How many phases

A single-phase voltage (220 V) or three-phase (380 V) can be supplied to a private house. According to the energy consumption standards for a private house for a single-phase network, the maximum consumption for a house can be 10-15 kW, for a three-phase one - 15 kW.


A three-phase input is needed only when you need to connect powerful equipment operating from a 380 V network

So what's the difference? The fact is that powerful electrical appliances can be directly connected to a three-phase network - electric stoves or heating boilers, ovens and similar equipment. However, the requirements for the input and wiring of the 380 V network are much stricter: the voltage is higher, the more likely to get serious injury. Therefore, if your house is no more than 100 square meters, and you do not think to heat it with electricity, you better conduct 220 V.

Drawing up a plan and getting a project

Having decided on the type of input, you can start developing a plan for the electrification of the house. Take the plan of the house on a scale, and draw where the equipment will be, figure out where to place the sockets and switches. In this case, it is necessary to take into account where which large-sized furniture will stand, and where it can be rearranged, so as not to point outlets and switches in these zones.

On the plan, you will need to apply all the lighting fixtures: chandeliers, sconces, floor lamps, lamps. Some will need switches, some will need sockets. Then you will need to figure out which devices in each room will need to be turned on.

For example, the kitchen has a lot of equipment that works constantly. It definitely needs sockets. There is also a technique that turns on periodically. All this is applied to the plan, the optimal location of the inclusion points is determined. The same approach is in each of the rooms.


The result of designing electrical wiring in a private house. You should also have a similar scheme.

Determination of the total power

Having decided approximately what kind of equipment will be in your house, summarize its power. Average power can be taken from the table: there is probably no equipment yet. Moreover, where available, take into account the starting loads (they are much higher). Add about 20% of the stock to the found amount. The result will be the required power.

You specify it in papers submitted for obtaining permission to connect electricity to the site. If you are given the declared power, you are very lucky, but you should not hope for it. Most likely, you will have to invest in a standard 5 kW - the most common electricity limit for a private house.


Average power values ​​of devices for calculating the total load on the wiring of a private house with your own hands

Breakdown of consumers into groups

All these consumers (this is the term of professionals) - lamps, spotlights, switches, sockets - are divided into groups. An electrician is bred by a separate branch for lighting fixtures. Usually one is enough, but this is not a rule, it may be more convenient or more expedient to make two branches - for each wing of the house or for each floor - depending on the type and configuration of the building. The illumination of the basement floor, utility rooms, as well as the light on the street stand out in a separate group.

Then they are divided into groups of sockets. How much you can "put" on one wire - depends on the diameter of the wire used, but not very much - three to five, no more. It is better to allocate a separate power line for connecting each powerful device: this is more reliable from the point of view of fire safety, and will contribute to a longer operation of the devices.

As a result, three to seven lines can go into the kitchen - here the equipment is the most powerful, too: for an electric boiler, an electric stove, separate lines are needed unconditionally. Refrigerator, microwave oven, electric oven, washing machine are also better "put" separately. Less powerful blender, food processor, etc. can be included in one line.


Design of electrical wiring in a private house: we count the number of groups and plan what to connect to where

The rooms usually go along two or four lines: in a modern home and in any room there is something to be connected to the power grid. One line will go to lighting. The second will have sockets, into which you will need to turn on your computer, router, TV, phone charger. All of them are not very powerful and can be combined into one group. If you plan to install an air conditioner or turn on an electric heater, you need separate lines.

If a private house is small - a dacha, for example, then there can be two or three groups in general: it is for all lighting devices, the second is for the street and the third is for all internal sockets. In general, the number of groups is an individual matter and depends most of all on the size of the house and the amount of electrical equipment in it.


The wiring plan can be quite small if the house is small

By the number of groups received, the number of machines on the switchboard in the house is determined: to the received number of groups you add two or four for development (suddenly you forgot something important, or you will need to turn on something powerful, divide a group that is too large or far-apart group into two, etc.).

The switchboard and the number of machines in it are selected according to the number of groups: a separate machine goes to each group. If the private house is large - on several floors, it makes sense to put more powerful machines on each floor, and connect group machines to them.

Where to put the shield

The location of the shield is not standardized by the standards. There are only restrictions on the distance from the pipelines, it must be at a distance of at least 1 meter. Any pipes are taken into account: water supply, heating, sewerage, internal drains, gas pipelines and even gas meters.

There are no restrictions on premises. Many people put a shield in the boiler room: since it is a technical room, it is reasonable to collect all communications here. The receiving authorities make no claims. Sometimes it is more convenient to place the shield near the front door. If the protection class meets the requirements, there should be no complaints.

Selection of cables and accessories

The standard today wiring diagram for a private house includes two machines. One - the entrance - is installed before the meter, usually on the street. It and the meter will be sealed upon commissioning. The second RCD machine is placed in the house in front of the dashboard.

The actuation (shutdown) current of these devices is selected so that the machine installed in the house is turned off first (its current value is slightly less). Then, in case of emergency operation, you will not need to climb under the roof.


Typical wiring diagram of a private house: there can be many different groups

If the calculated load is less than 15 kW, the input machine is set at 25 A. Accordingly, the counter is also selected. With a higher power consumption, it will be necessary to install a transformer, its parameters and parameters of all equipment will be indicated in the project.

Recently, when connecting a private house to the power grid, they require to install a meter and an automatic machine on the street. This requirement is not legally confirmed, it is just that it is easier for the electrical service to control consumption. If you want, you can fight, if not - choose a counter and a machine in a case with increased dust and moisture resistance - protection class is not lower than IP-55. For installation inside a building, the protection should be less - IP-44, respectively, the price will be lower.

Choice of cables

For electrical wiring in a private house, it is better to use cables rather than wires. Their insulation is at least two times better, and therefore the requirements for laying are not so strict, and it is safer to use them. All internal wiring in a private house must be made with protective earth. Previously, there were no such requirements, but now many electrical appliances have three-pin plugs and require grounding for safe operation. Therefore, the cable must be three-core.

In electrical cables, the conductors are made of copper or aluminum. Although aluminum is cheaper, it is used less often: it is tough, it breaks more often, and it is more difficult to work with it. With self-wiring in a private house and lack of experience, this can become a problem. In addition, in wooden houses inside, it cannot be used at all.

Determination of the cross-section of the conductors

After you have decided on the material, you can choose the diameter of the cable cores. This is done depending on the planned load on the line according to the table.


Calculation of electrical wiring - the choice of the cross-section of the cable cores is carried out according to this table

The cross-section of the core is selected according to the current or according to the power of all consumers connected to one machine. This is where the home electrification plan comes in handy again, where you have drawn groups of consumers. Consider the sum of the currents or powers of all devices and choose the desired cross-section of the conductors according to the table.

How to use the table? If you decide to lay copper wires, the input voltage is 220 V, then the left part of it, the corresponding column, is suitable for internal wiring. The found power of all consumers connected to the group will be compared (it is easier to find and calculate it).

In the part where we are talking about copper wires laid in trays, voids, channels, the column "220 V", find the nearest higher value. Along this line, move to the right until the column “Section, sq. mm". The number indicated here will be the required size of the cores. From conductors of this diameter, it will be necessary to make electrical wiring from the machine to sockets or switches.

In order not to get confused when calculating and laying, mark the cores of the same diameter on the plan with a certain color (write down so as not to forget what color you designated what). After the diameter has been determined for all consumer groups, the length of the required cables for each size is calculated, a margin of 20-25% is added to the found figures. You have calculated the wiring for your home.

Choosing a shell type

There are certain requirements for the type of sheath only when laying electricians in wooden houses: it is recommended to use triple (NYM) or double (VVG) cable insulation there. Any kind of insulation can be used in houses with less flammable materials.

The main thing is that it is intact, without cracks, sagging and other damage. If you want to play it safe, you can use conductors with enhanced protection. This makes sense in rooms with high humidity (kitchen, bathroom, swimming pool, sauna, etc.).

Choice of sockets and switches

For some powerful devices, the sockets are selected according to the maximum (starting) current. For other low-power consumers, they are standard. You need to know that they are:

  • Outdoor - when the body sticks out of the wall. It is easier to install them: a substrate is attached to the wall, and a socket on top of it. But few people use such models now, even in summer cottages. The reason is aesthetic: not the most attractive sight.
  • Internal. A recess is made in the wall for the electrical part, an installation box is installed and walled up into it. The electrical part of the socket or switch is inserted inside this box.

It is the internal electrical outlets and switches that are most commonly used today. They are decorated in different styles, painted in different colors. They are selected mainly in the tone of the finish, and if this is not possible, they are put in white.

DIY wiring

Modern construction trends provide for hidden wiring. It can be laid in grooves specially made in the walls - grooves. After laying and securing the cables, they are covered with putty, comparing with the surface of the rest of the wall.

If the erected walls will then be lined with sheet materials - plasterboard, gypsum plasterboard, etc., then strobes are not needed. The cables are laid in the gap between the wall and the trim, but in this case - only in corrugated sleeves. The sheath with the laid cables is fastened with clamps to the structural elements.


How the internal wiring should be laid. In a private house, when making a device with your own hands, you must follow all the rules

When laying, you need to remember that the internal wiring of a private house is done according to all the rules and recommendations. This is the only way to guarantee safety. The basic rules are:

  • wiring only vertically and horizontally, no rounded corners or beveled routes;
  • all connections must be made in junction boxes;
  • horizontal transitions should be at a height of at least 2.5 meters, from them a cable is dropped down to an outlet or to a switch.

A detailed plan of the route, similar to the one in the photo above, must be saved. It will come in handy when repairing or upgrading wiring. You will need to be consulted with him if somewhere near you need to groove or make a hole, hammer in a nail. The main task is not to get caught in the cable.

Wire connection methods

A large percentage of wiring problems stem from poor wire connections. They can be done in several ways:

  • Twisting. Only homogeneous metals, or those that do not enter into a chemical reaction, can combine in this way. It is strictly forbidden to twist copper and aluminum. In other cases, the length of the bare conductors must be at least 40 mm. Two wires are connected to each other, as tightly as possible, the turns are stacked one next to the other. From above, the connection is wrapped with electrical tape and / or packed with heat shrink tubing. If you want the contact to be 100%, and the losses are minimal, do not be too lazy to solder the twist. In general, according to modern standards, this type of wire connection is considered unreliable.
  • Connection via screw terminal box. In the housing made of heat-resistant plastic, metal terminals are sealed, which are tightened with screws. The conductor stripped of insulation is inserted into the socket, secured with a screw, using a screwdriver. This type of connection is the most reliable.
  • Connecting blocks with springs. In these devices, the contact is provided by a spring. A bare conductor is inserted into the socket, which is clamped by a spring. And still, the most reliable connection methods are welding and soldering. If it is possible to make the connection like this, you can assume that you will not have any problems. Anyway, with connections.
  • Do-it-yourself installation of electrical wiring in a house requires careful fulfillment of all requirements. This is a guarantee of your privacy and the safety of your private property. After the wires from the machine to the connection point of the outlet or switch are laid, they are checked for integrity with a tester - they ring the wires together, checking the integrity of the conductors, and each separately to the ground - checking insulation is not damaged anywhere. If the cable is not damaged, proceed with the installation of the outlet or switch. Having connected, everything is checked again with a tester. Then they can be put on the appropriate machine. Moreover, it is advisable to immediately sign the machine: it will be easier to navigate. Having finished the electrical wiring throughout the house, having checked everything on their own, they call the electric laboratory specialists. They check the condition of the conductors and insulation, measure grounding and zero, according to the results they give you a test report (protocol). Without it, you will not be given permission to commission.

In the practice of any home craftsman, questions periodically arise related to the completion of the electrical circuit, when it is required to install an additional outlet, hang a new lamp or completely re-equip the room.

The question immediately arises: how is the electrical wiring diagram made, where should I connect to it?

The situation is aggravated when the building is old, the apartment has changed several owners, each of whom carried out repairs to his taste. As a result, all the electrical connection points are hidden inside the decorative coatings, and the routes for laying its cables and wires are unknown.

Principles of constructing an electrical circuit in an apartment

Any wiring is created according to general methods and is somehow different from all other laying schemes.

Mandatory elements of the scheme

The basis for creating electrical wiring is, to which electricity is supplied from the supplying organization. It can be installed at the entrance to a private house, on the staircase of the entrance of a multi-storey building - storeyed or directly inside the apartment.

Electricity in the apartment panel from the input immediately goes to the electricity meter - a device that takes into account its consumption. After it, it is distributed along the supply lines to consumers with cables and wires.

To protect the circuits, automatic devices are used that are cut into the circuit inside the apartment panel in front of the cable going to the consumer.

Distinctive features

Each specific wiring diagram necessarily differs from similar developments due to the use of numerous designs of all kinds of models of electrical devices, wires and cables with their installation according to standard or individual projects by different methods.

Methods for supplying voltage to consumers in an apartment

The electric current from each operating household appliance is summed up in the apartment panel and counted by the meter through which the total load passes. Therefore, the current-carrying lines of the apartment panel are made with a thick section, excluding thermal overload of the wiring, aging of the insulation.

To consumers from the apartment panel, wires are laid with a smaller section: the load through them is lower. But the material and cross-section of the core are selected according to reference books that take into account the operating conditions of the wires and the power transmitted through them.

In this case, there are three possible ways to implement the scheme:

    a loop (buses), when a common wiring line is created through junction boxes, and from them there are branches to electrical points (sockets, switches, lamps);

    the radial method, which consists in supplying voltage to each outlet with a separate cable that goes directly without breaks and connections from the protection of the apartment panel;

    in a combined way, combining elements of the first two principles.

Voltage supply by loop

All ends of electrical wires and cables are wired inside the junction boxes. An exclusion map is created to connect them.

An example is the electrical wiring diagram used in multi-storey residential buildings of forty years of construction. As an example, consider the structure of an old one-room apartment wiring.

An electric meter and two circuit breakers were installed inside the driveway. One was used for the outlet group, and the second was used for lighting. From them, cables or, more often, wires, "aluminum noodles", went in a loop to three (sometimes four) junction boxes:

1. rooms;

3. bathroom unit and bathroom.

Both loops were laid in parallel lines to each box and were commutated in it. Since previously the loads on the wiring were small, separation by wire thickness was not applied. The entire circuit was completely assembled with a cross-section of 2.5 mm2 aluminum conductors.

The junction box for the bathroom and the bathroom was installed in the corridor and connected with wires to control the lighting of both rooms.

The diagram shows an option for protecting consumers connected separately to sockets and lighting devices. The principle of managing consumers by their location in rooms was also often used. For example, AV # 1 protects the kitchen and bathroom equipment, and # 2 protects the corridor and room.

Inside one room, several sockets were often connected with a loop, and the lighting was done with a three-arm chandelier controlled by a two-button switch.

Voltage supply to consumers can be performed according to other principles, when part of the load is connected through the third backup circuit breaker of the apartment panel. To determine how to connect sockets and switches, proceed as follows:

    light all the lamps and plug in working electrical appliances, for example, a table lamp or a razor;

    disconnect any circuit breaker in the dashboard and monitor the consumers who have stopped working;

    record for memory;

    turn off the next machine and fix the changes;

    analyze information.

Radial stressing

The dashboard distributes power to the circuit breakers as in the previous case. In this situation, they are more carefully selected according to the technical characteristics for each consumer according to the individual load current.

The cable connects sockets, switches and luminaires directly to the circuit breakers without any additional connections.

With this principle, the electrical wiring provides increased reliability of operation due to disconnection from the protection of only the consumer on which the malfunction occurred. However, in this case it is required:

    increased number of circuit breakers;

    large dimensions of the apartment panel for their placement;

    long cable lines.

Due to this, the material costs for creating the circuit and its cost increase.

Combined voltage supply

The method combines two developments: a loop and a radial connection, taking into account their application to local conditions. Reasonable cost savings are created by choosing the right loads.

Principles of laying cable lines

Whichever wiring diagram is chosen, for its implementation it is necessary to connect the automatic devices of the apartment panel with the consumers with wires.

There are the following ways of routing cables on building structures:

    on the ceiling;

    on the walls;

    under the floor;

    mixed method.

Ceiling cable routing

The traditional old scheme, which is often resorted to today.

Cables from sockets, switches and the panel rise along vertical lines to the ceiling and under it go into the ceiling. When it becomes necessary to turn and connect the wires to the junction box, for example, to connect a switch, then only a right angle of at least 15 cm from the top is created.

This method allows in the future to avoid accidental damage to hidden wiring when drilling walls for attaching shelves, paintings and other elements.

Laying cables along the wall

The method resembles the previous one, but the cable lines are directed only along the walls.

Obstacles can be encountered on the way of the electric main: water supply pipelines, sewerage pipelines, heating pipelines, gas pipelines. They must be bypassed, creating an air gap as an insulating, dividing section of at least 3 cm.

Laying cables on the floor

This method began to be used relatively recently in the construction of new buildings. The cables from the apartment panel are lowered down, laid under the floor covering, and protected from mechanical stress. They are brought out to the sockets vertically.

When connecting the sockets with a loop, the jumpers are laid along the floor in pipes or the walls are grooved.

To connect lamps and switches, junction boxes are mounted.

Features of laying electrical wiring in panel houses

With the in-line factory method of manufacturing multi-storey buildings, the same type of templates for wall and ceiling panels are created. Inside them, empty channels are immediately made for laying wires.

For technological reasons, their direction may differ from the strict vertical and horizontal orientation.

The first panel buildings, called Khrushchevs, have specific wiring laid under the wooden floor of the apartment. It rises to the sockets vertically in the cavities of the walls, and to the lamps and switches it is supplied through the hole in the concrete slab of the floor of the neighbor from above.

In this way, they used to try to save material costs for wiring, but they neglected the safety elements.

How to make a wiring diagram in an apartment with your own hands

Electrical equipment requires adherence to strict operating rules. Incorrect connection of it to the voltage network creates an increased risk of domestic injuries. For this reason, all electrical work is carried out by trained professionals who have completed training and exams.

Self-connection of electrical devices is usually not very difficult, it ends happily even if you make a few small mistakes. However, when engaging in such activities, it is necessary to first study the safety rules and applicable regulations.

Design organizations that have received state permission for this type of activity are engaged in wiring diagrams. It is quite acceptable to try to make her project with your own hands and get advice from a specialist on it.

This will require:

    create a room plan to scale or use the developer's technical drawings;

    mark all furniture and large-sized items on it in compliance with the proportions;

    determine the installation sites for electrical consumers, assess their load;

    plan the placement of electrical points: sockets, switches, lamps, junction boxes;

    mark the routes of electrical wiring along the walls, ceiling or floor;

    make a sketch for each room.

Room plan

A similar drawing should be kept in the documentation of the housing and communal services. If you don't have access to it, you can use a tape measure and draw a simple sketch yourself on paper.

Furniture arrangement

Stationary placement of large items in the room should not clutter up sockets and lamps. Access to the switches must be made free and convenient to use.

Therefore, all electrical points are placed taking into account the free area of ​​building structures. This gets rid of.

Estimation of power consumption of electrical appliances

Analysis of the created loads allows:

    group consumers;

    select protection, switching devices for them;

    choose the design of cables, wires.

The selection and calculation of electrical wiring is carried out according to the applied load for open and closed operation using electrical reference books.

Determination of installation locations for electrical points

The planning of the location of switches, sockets and lamps is carried out taking into account the solution of the issues discussed above.

The coordinates of each electrical point are shown in the sketch. On them, markings are applied to building structures. It will allow you to design a direction and calculate the length of wires and cables for their purchase.

Such a plan is drawn up for each room. It will become the basis for creating a wiring diagram for the wiring in the apartment, will help to acquire the necessary material resources, and to carry out optimal installation work.

By saving it in your home technical documentation, you can always recall the features of the electrical circuit in your memory to carry out its modifications and modernization.

Electricity is a serious and responsible business. If you are going to do all the work yourself, you need to do everything very carefully and diligently. Correct wiring in a private house is a guarantee of safety, because according to statistics, 70% of fires happen due to electrical faults. If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to entrust the work to specialists, only proven ones.

Action plan

The wiring in a private house is done before the start of finishing work. The box of the house has been kicked out, the walls and roof are ready - it's time to start work. The sequence of actions is as follows:

  • Determination of the input type - single-phase (220 V) or three-phase (380 V).
  • Development of the scheme, calculation of the capacity of the planned equipment, submission of documents and receipt of the project. Here it must be said that it is far from always in the technical conditions that the power declared by you will be determined, most likely no more than 5 kW will be allocated.
  • Selection of components and components, purchase of a meter, machines, cables, etc.
  • ... It is carried out by a specialized organization, you need to decide on the type - air or underground, install an input machine and a counter in the right place.
  • Install electricity to the house.
  • Laying cables inside the house, connecting sockets, switches.
  • Arrangement of the ground loop and its connection.
  • Testing the system and obtaining an act.
  • Electrical connection and operation.

This is only a general plan, in each case there are nuances and features, but you need to start with obtaining the technical conditions for connecting to the power grid and the project. To do this, you need to decide on the type of input and the planned power consumption. It must be remembered that the preparation of documents can take six months, so it is better to submit them even before the start of construction: two years are given to fulfill the technical conditions. During this time, for sure, you will be able to kick out the wall on which you can put the machine gun and the counter.

How many phases

A single-phase voltage (220 V) or three-phase (380 V) can be supplied to a private house. According to the energy consumption standards for a private house for a single-phase network, the maximum consumption for a house can be 10-15 kW, for a three-phase one - 15 kW.

So what's the difference? The fact is that powerful electrical appliances can be directly connected to a three-phase network - electric stoves or heating boilers, ovens and similar equipment. However, the requirements for the input and wiring of the 380 V network are much stricter: the voltage is higher, the more likely to get serious injury. Therefore, if your house is no more than 100 square meters, and you do not think to heat it with electricity, you better conduct 220 V.

Drawing up a plan and getting a project

Having decided on the type of input, you can start developing a plan for the electrification of the house. Take the plan of the house on a scale, and draw where the equipment will be, figure out where to place the sockets and switches. In this case, it is necessary to take into account where which large-sized furniture will stand, and where it can be rearranged, so as not to point outlets and switches in these zones.

On the plan, you will need to apply all the lighting fixtures: chandeliers, sconces, floor lamps, lamps. Some will need switches, some will need sockets. Then you will need to figure out which devices in each room will need to be turned on. For example, the kitchen has a lot of equipment that works constantly. It definitely needs sockets. There is also a technique that turns on periodically. All this is applied to the plan, the optimal location of the inclusion points is determined. The same approach is in each of the rooms.

Determination of the total power

Having decided approximately what kind of equipment will be in your house, summarize its power. Average power can be taken from the table: there is probably no equipment yet. Moreover, where available, take into account the starting loads (they are much higher). Add about 20% of the stock to the found amount. The result will be the required power. You specify it in papers submitted for obtaining permission to connect electricity to the site. If you are given the declared power, you are very lucky, but you should not hope for it. Most likely, you will have to invest in a standard 5 kW - the most common electricity limit for a private house.

Breakdown of consumers into groups

All these consumers (this is the term of professionals) - lamps, spotlights, switches, sockets - are divided into groups. An electrician is bred by a separate branch for lighting fixtures. Usually one is enough, but this is not a rule, it may be more convenient or more expedient to make two branches - for each wing of the house or for each floor - depending on the type and configuration of the building. The illumination of the basement floor, utility rooms, as well as the light on the street stand out in a separate group.

Then they are divided into groups of sockets. How much you can "put" on one wire - depends on the diameter of the wire used, but not very much - three to five, no more. It is better to allocate a separate power line for connecting each powerful device: this is more reliable from the point of view of fire safety, and will contribute to a longer operation of the devices.

As a result, three to seven lines can go into the kitchen - here the equipment is the most powerful, too: for an electric boiler, an electric stove, separate lines are needed unconditionally. Refrigerator, microwave oven, electric oven, washing machine are also better "put" separately. Less powerful blender, food processor, etc. can be included in one line.

The rooms usually go along two or four lines: in a modern home and in any room there is something to be connected to the power grid. One line will go to lighting. The second will have sockets, into which you will need to turn on your computer, router, TV, phone charger. All of them are not very powerful and can be combined into one group. If you plan to install an air conditioner or turn on an electric heater, you need separate lines.

If a private house is small - a dacha, for example, then there can be two or three groups in general: it is for all lighting devices, the second is for the street and the third is for all internal sockets. In general, the number of groups is an individual matter and depends most of all on the size of the house and the amount of electrical equipment in it.

By the number of groups received, the number of machines on the switchboard in the house is determined: to the received number of groups you add two or four for development (suddenly you forgot something important, or you will need to turn on something powerful, divide a group that is too large or far-apart group into two, etc.). According to the number of groups, the number of machines in it is also selected: for each group there is a separate machine. If the private house is large - on several floors, it makes sense to put more powerful machines on each floor, and connect group machines to them.

Where to put the shield

The place of installation of the electrical panel is not standardized by the standards. There are only restrictions on the distance from the pipelines, it must be at a distance of at least 1 meter. Any pipes are taken into account: water supply, heating, sewerage, internal drains, gas pipelines and even gas meters.

There are no restrictions on premises. Many put a shield in: since the technical room, then it is reasonable to collect all communications here. The receiving authorities make no claims. Sometimes it is more convenient to place the shield near the front door. If the protection class meets the requirements, there should be no complaints.

Selection of cables and accessories

The standard today wiring diagram for a private house includes two machines. One - the entrance - is installed before the meter, usually on the street. It and the meter will be sealed upon commissioning. The second RCD machine is placed in the house in front of the dashboard. The actuation (shutdown) current of these devices is selected so that the machine installed in the house is turned off first (its current value is slightly less). Then, in case of emergency operation, you will not need to climb under the roof.

If the calculated load is less than 15 kW, the circuit is standard - RCD + automatic machine, counter and further division into groups. With a higher power consumption, it will be necessary to install a transformer, its parameters and parameters of all equipment will be indicated in the project.

Recently, when connecting a private house to the power grid, they require to install a meter and an automatic machine on the street. This requirement is not legally confirmed, it is just that it is easier for the electrical service to control consumption. If you want, you can fight, if not - choose a counter and a machine in a case with increased dust and moisture resistance - protection class is not lower than IP-55. For installation inside a building, the protection should be less - IP-44, respectively, the price will be lower.

Choice of cables

For electrical wiring in a private house, it is better to use cables rather than wires. Their insulation is at least two times better, and therefore the requirements for laying are not so strict, and it is safer to use them. All internal wiring must be done in a private house with. Previously, there were no such requirements, but now many electrical appliances have three-pin plugs and require grounding for safe operation. Therefore, the cable must be three-core.

In electrical cables, the conductors are made of copper or aluminum. Although aluminum is cheaper, it is used less often: it is tough, it breaks more often, and it is more difficult to work with it. With self-wiring in a private house and lack of experience, this can become a problem. In addition, in wooden houses inside, it cannot be used at all.

Determination of the cross-section of the conductors

After you have decided on the material, you can choose the diameter of the cable cores. This is done depending on the planned load on the line according to the table.

Calculation of electrical wiring - the choice of the cross-section of the cable cores is carried out according to this table

The cross-section of the core is selected according to the current or according to the power of all consumers connected to one machine. This is where the home electrification plan comes in handy again, where you have drawn groups of consumers. Consider the sum of the currents or powers of all devices and choose the desired cross-section of the conductors according to the table.

How to use the table? If you decide to lay copper wires, the input voltage is 220 V, then the left part of it, the corresponding column, is suitable for internal wiring. The found power of all consumers connected to the group will be compared (it is easier to find and calculate it). In the part where we are talking about copper wires laid in trays, voids, channels, the column "220 V", find the nearest higher value. Along this line, move to the right until the column “Section, sq. mm". The number indicated here will be the required size of the cores. From conductors of this diameter, it will be necessary to make electrical wiring from the machine to sockets or switches.

In order not to get confused when calculating and laying, mark the cores of the same diameter on the plan with a certain color (write down so as not to forget what color you designated what). After the diameter has been determined for all consumer groups, the length of the required cables for each size is calculated, a margin of 20-25% is added to the found figures. You have calculated the wiring for your home.

Choosing a shell type

There are certain requirements for the type of sheath only when laying electricians in wooden houses: it is recommended to use triple (NYM) or double () cable insulation there. Any kind of insulation can be used in houses with less flammable materials. The main thing is that it is intact, without cracks, sagging and other damage. If you want to play it safe, you can use conductors with enhanced protection. This makes sense in rooms with high humidity (kitchen, bathroom, swimming pool, sauna, etc.).

Choice of sockets and switches

For some powerful devices, the sockets are selected according to the maximum (starting) current. For other low-power consumers, they are standard. You need to know that they are:

  • Outdoor - when the body sticks out of the wall. It is easier to install them: a substrate is attached to the wall, and a socket on top of it. But few people use such models now, even in summer cottages. The reason is aesthetic: not the most attractive sight.
  • Internal. A recess is made in the wall for the electrical part, an installation box is installed and walled up into it. The electrical part of the socket or switch is inserted inside this box.

It is the internal electrical outlets and switches that are most commonly used today. They are decorated in different styles, painted in different colors. They are selected mainly in the tone of the finish, and if this is not possible, they are put in white.

Read how to connect pass-through switches (turn on / off the light from two or more places).

DIY wiring

Modern construction trends provide for hidden wiring. It can be laid in grooves specially made in the walls - grooves. After laying and securing the cables, they are covered with putty, comparing with the surface of the rest of the wall. If the erected walls will then be lined with sheet materials - plasterboard, gypsum plasterboard, etc., then strobes are not needed. The cables are laid in the gap between the wall and the trim, but in this case - only in corrugated sleeves. The sheath with the laid cables is fastened with clamps to the structural elements.

When laying, you need to remember that the internal wiring of a private house is done according to all the rules and recommendations. This is the only way to guarantee safety. The basic rules are:

  • wiring only vertically and horizontally, no rounded corners or beveled routes;
  • all connections must be made in;
  • horizontal transitions should be at a height of at least 2.5 meters, from them a cable is dropped down to an outlet or to a switch.

A detailed plan of the route, similar to the one in the photo above, must be saved. It will come in handy when repairing or upgrading wiring. You will need to be consulted with him if somewhere near you need to groove or make a hole, hammer in a nail. The main task is not to get caught in the cable.

A large percentage of wiring problems stem from poor wire connections. They can be done in several ways:


And still, the most reliable connection methods are welding and soldering. If it is possible to make the connection like this, you can assume that you will not have any problems. Anyway, with connections.

Do-it-yourself installation of electrical wiring in a house requires careful fulfillment of all requirements. This is a guarantee of your privacy and the security of your private property.

After the wires from the machine to the connection point of the outlet or switch are laid, they are checked for integrity with a tester - they ring the wires together, checking the integrity of the conductors, and each separately to the ground - checking that the insulation is not damaged anywhere. If the cable is not damaged, proceed with the installation of the outlet or switch. Having connected, everything is checked again with a tester. Then they can be put on the appropriate machine. Moreover, it is advisable to immediately sign the machine: it will be easier to navigate.

Having finished the electrical wiring throughout the house, having checked everything on their own, they call the electric laboratory specialists. They check the condition of the conductors and insulation, measure grounding and zero, according to the results they give you a test report (protocol). Without it, you will not be given permission to commission.

A person cannot do without electricity for a comfortable life. In its absence, it will not be possible either to cook food on modern kitchen equipment, or to use any power tools or household appliances, or to provide an acceptable level of lighting.

However, the wiring of the electrical network is an extremely demanding event. Even the slightest inaccuracy or erroneous connection can lead to sad consequences: damage to devices, and in the worst case - to a fire.

Therefore, even at the stage of planning work on the supply of electricity, it is necessary to pay close attention to the power supply scheme.

The detailed wiring diagram is a drawing that shows the main units of the in-house electricity supply system: input line, protective devices, an electric meter, junction boxes and taps from them, switches and sockets for connecting end consumers.

For each private house, its own wiring diagram is developed, if no standard project was used during the construction. However, the purpose of the schema will always be the same:

  • Having a detailed diagram in hand, it will be possible to plan in advance the list of equipment and materials necessary for creating an electrical network.
  • This will not only eliminate the need to hastily buy what is missing on the days of the installation work, but will also significantly save money. Achieving this savings will be an opportunity to find cheaper options and not buy anything superfluous;

  • It is much easier to determine the required input power with the circuit;
  • The drawing will clearly show the nodes with the maximum power consumption. This will allow them to be rescheduled in advance in such a way as to ensure hollow fire safety and not create an unnecessary load on the power grid nodes;
  • In addition, the scheme will make it possible to more rationally plan the work on arranging the electrical network in the house, dividing them into a rational number of stages without the risk of forgetting to mount one or another node.

Power input

Competently executed input of electricity into a private house from the power supply line is not only a guarantee of stable and high-quality power supply for all household appliances, but also reliable protection against fires.

In addition, its resistance to wind loads, as well as the degree of protection against electric shock in rain, snow, and also simply in wet weather, depends on the thoughtfulness of the input line.

There are two main ways how you can implement the introduction of electricity into a house: through an overhead line or through underground utilities. In the first case, it means pulling the wires between the wall of the house and the support of the power supply lines, in the second - deepening the wiring into the ground.

The most rational air input may be when the distance between the wall of the house and the power supply column does not exceed 20 m. If it turns out to be large, then one more additional support will have to be installed on the personal plot.

This is done in order to reduce the mechanical load on the input line, which, with a length of more than 20 m, can break either under its own weight or when swaying in the wind.

The air line is equipped as follows:

  • A hole is drilled through the wall, into which a piece of a metal pipe of a small diameter or a special plastic corrugation is installed;
  • An insulator on a bracket is cut into the wall of the house;
  • A steel cable is stretched between the insulator on the wall and the insulator on the pole;
  • The wires are pulled directly;
  • Lead wires every 0.5 m are fastened to the supporting cable using metal or plastic clamps;
  • Carrying wires are introduced through the wall and the inserted pipe, then connected to the distribution board of the in-house wiring.
It is very important that sufficient tension is maintained in the cable along with the wires attached to it.

This is achieved by tension between the insulators on the pole and on the wall. A piece of wire from the insulator to the switchboard must be laid freely, without tension. The minimum distance between the ground level and the lowest point of sagging of the tensioned cable should be 3.5.

Also, this cable should not come into contact along its entire length with any buildings, nor with the crowns of trees or shrubs.

The insertion point requires sealing. To do this, after laying an electric cable through the pipe, all the free space remaining in it is filled with either mounting foam or tightly compacted non-combustible mineral wool.

SIP cable can be used as a wire that can be used to supply electricity to a private house. Its insulation is designed for operation in conditions of exposure to atmospheric precipitation and solar radiation, as well as significant temperature fluctuations.

In addition, this cable does not require the use of an additional supporting cable, since it already has one. The minimum wire section is 16 sq. Mm. For 220 V input, a two-core cable is used, for 380 V - a four-core cable.

An underground input is considered to be more reliable than its aerial version. The increase in reliability is achieved by completely eliminating the impact on the cable of such unfavorable factors as temperature drops, precipitation and wind loads.

In addition, when entering underground, obstacles such as tree crowns or outbuildings can be ignored.

For all its stability, the soil is also a rather corrosive medium that, over time, can damage the protective sheath of an electric cable. Therefore, wires laid underground need protection.

Either steel or plastic pipes of small diameter are used as a protective element and in the arrangement of the underground input.

The pipe should be laid from the point of exit into the room and up to a level of 1.8-2 m already on the power supply pole.

The depth of laying the electric cable should not be less than 0.8 m. If the entry is organized through the foundation, then in this case the hole is reinforced by installing an asbestos-cement pipe.

When arranging the electricity input, it should be remembered that only the employees of the supplying organization have the right to perform the direct connection of electricity, as well as any work on the power supply poles.

Electricity consumers in a country house and drawing up a diagram

To facilitate the calculation of loads on the power grid and correctly draw up its diagram, all energy consumers in a private house can be divided into several groups:

  • Lighting;
  • Kitchen equipment (microwave oven, electric oven, multicooker, extractor hood, etc.);
  • Bathroom equipment (boiler, washing machine);
  • Sockets for connecting low-power electrical appliances and consumer electronics;
  • Power tools in the utility room.

The calculation of the total power for which the intra-house electrical network should be calculated is as follows:

  • The rated power of all available consumers is summed up;
  • The result obtained is corrected for the generally accepted coefficient of simultaneous switching on of devices, i.e. multiplied by 0.7.

In addition to the total power, it is very important to take into account the load for each of the consumer groups. At the same time, devices with a total power exceeding 4.5 kW should not be included in one group.

If the power exceeds this value, then some of the devices will need to be allocated to a separate group and plan to connect them on a separate line. The calculations can be guided by the following table:

To ensure a safe and reliable power supply, it is necessary to determine the type of wires used. For private houses, only copper wires with a long service life are allowed.

When calculating the wiring diagram, for each of its sections you need to adhere to the following rules:

  • The wiring must be absolutely safe during operation;
  • Cable losses should be kept to a minimum;
  • The service life of the cable cannot be less than 10 years.

These requirements are fully met by cables of types NYM, VVGng, VVG, PUNP. All of them can be used to supply energy with hidden wiring to sockets and lighting fixtures. If an open method of wiring is chosen, then you can use the cables PUGNP or PUGVP.

An example of typical solutions for a country house

To avoid mistakes, even before drawing up a diagram, it is worthwhile to fully understand for yourself how electricity should be distributed in a private house:

The circuit should start with an input switch, which allows you to turn off the power to absolutely all electrical appliances, including the meter. Next, there should be an electric meter, the installation of which should be carried out by the specialists of the service company.

This is followed by a circuit breaker with a trip threshold that allows the maximum possible power consumption.

In addition, separate protective devices will be required for each of the consumer groups. Moreover, for especially powerful devices, it will be necessary to use more powerful cut-off machines (25-40 A), as well as wires of increased cross-section.

Testing wiring

After completing the installation of the wiring diagram, it will need to be thoroughly tested for the quality of the work and the correctness of the general wiring diagram. This will eliminate the risk of overheating of its individual sections, which could result in a fire.

The main tool here is a simple device for dialing electrical lines, and best of all, a multimeter.

The sequence of actions during the test includes the implementation of several activities.

  1. Check for short circuits. To do this, using the device, it is determined whether there is no contact between the phase, zero and ground wires. Along the way, you can find out the quality of the insulation, for which measurements will need to be performed using a megohmmeter.
  2. The operation of all installed switches is monitored.
  3. The outputs of the lamps and sockets are called.
In order to avoid possible torment after installing the electrical network, it is advisable to ring the electrical wire itself in advance.

It is quite possible that in some area its mechanical damage occurred. If it remains unnoticed, then it is fraught with either a short circuit or a lack of voltage in one or another power supply line.

After making sure that the electrical network is built correctly and is fully functional, you can start operating it.

The development of a power supply scheme for a private house is a work that requires maximum attention. The slightest inaccuracy or an unattended electrical network unit can lead either to inoperability of the network, or to the impossibility of its safe operation.

However, with a full understanding of the tasks at hand and knowledge of the basic concepts of electrical engineering, almost any electrical network scheme can be implemented.

Watch the video about the already installed circuit in a private house and gain additional knowledge about various little things