3M Primer 94 adhesion promoter for vinyl films nNecessary when using calendered films!
Primer 3M 94 enhances adhesion and adhesion of vinyl film, PVC vinyl carbon film to the surface of the pasted material, ensures the quality and durability of the work performed.
Designed for bonding PVC vinyl films on surfaces such as polyethylene, polypropylene, ABS, concrete mixes, wood, glass, metal and painted surfaces.
Primer 3M 94 is most often used in car vinyl, i.e. when pasting cars with vinyl film.
It is applied to a cleaned and degreased surface.
Instructions for use of primer 3M Primer 94:
Shake the container with Primer 94 before use. The surface to be primed must be free of contamination, so wipe it down isopropyl alcohol
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Apply minimum even layer on the glued surface. Before proceeding with pasting, Primer 94 should not only evaporate, but also dry a little. Typically 1 to 5 minutes at room temperature is sufficient. If it is necessary to obtain high adhesion immediately, it should be dried for 10-15 minutes. Maximum adhesion occurs within 1-2 days after pasting. If the initial evaporation lasts longer than 5-10 seconds, then you have applied too thick a primer layer, this can lead to the formation of bumps and glue bubbles under the film.
For absorbent and porous substrates, it is sometimes necessary to reapply the Primer to create a uniform coating surface and good adhesion. In this case, you need to dry the first layer and only then apply the second. It is advisable to apply primer 3M 94 with a swab, napkin or a special spatula for applying primer, you can also use a spray gun, after work, soak the tool in
... When covering painted or varnished surfaces, it is not advisable to use brushes, because they give a thick layer of primer, this is only permissible on porous surfaces such as primer or wood. A paper napkin or thin cotton cloth works best.
Primer Application Tips:
Important! When using calendered vinyl, be sure to apply the primer to the bonded part under the edges of the film and on the concave surfaces and inner corners, this will help prevent the film from falling off during shrinkage!
1. Apply a thin layer of primer!
2. If even immediately after pasting it is necessary to tear off the film, then consider that it is no longer suitable for pasting in difficult places, since the primer does not come off the glue, as a result they are both either on the machine or on the film! In both versions, the film will only stay on for a while.
For example, when pasting the hood or trunk, the primer is applied along the edge of the hood from above with a width of about 5 cm and on the reverse side under the wrapped film as well from 1 to 3 cm.Otherwise, a slight shrinkage of the film over time can cause the folded edge to peel off and may even turn the film out.
This product, which has no complete functional analogs from other manufacturers, was developed by 3M, the world leader in the development and production of high-tech materials. Suffice it to recall the world-famous Thinsulate® insulation, Scotch® adhesive tapes, which gave the Russian name to similar products even from other manufacturers, and many other useful inventions for home and professional use.
The main purpose of the primer is to enhance the adhesive effect of films, scotch tapes or other self-adhesive materials. - an irreplaceable assistant when pasting a car with vinyl film! Not a single professionally done work can do without it.
All films for car styling have a self-adhesive base, everyone knows this. Why, then, a primer, you ask ?! When gluing the film on curved surfaces, it stretches strongly, its adhesive layer also stretches and becomes thinner, the film must be helped to stay on the surface to be glued in difficult conditions, for this it is needed! This is especially necessary when pasting concave surfaces. Having previously coated the glued surface with a primer, we reinsure ourselves against repeated work in such difficult areas as the stiffening ribs of the hood with a concave profile, complex-concave bumpers, places where glue is not enough. It should be remembered that the film loves to peel off at the edges of the parts, and to swell in the recesses, which is why it is advisable to use a primer.
Product description:
Can be used to improve adhesion to surfaces such as polyethylene, polypropylene, ABS, PET / PBT combination, concrete, wood, glass, metal and painted metal surfaces.
Transparent amber color, consumption of about one liter per 211 sq. m.
Surface preparation:
The surface to be applied must be clean and dry. To clean contaminated surfaces, it is recommended to use a 1: 1 mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water.
Application:
Shake the jar well before use, then apply a thin uniform layer on the surface to be glued, using the minimum amount necessary for an even coating. Allow time for the composition to dry before pasting. This usually takes 5 minutes at room temperature. Make sure that the surface to which the Primer is applied is free from dirt and dust. Porous substrates may require reapplication to achieve uniform surface coverage and good adhesion. In this case, it is necessary to allow the first layer to dry and only then apply the second.
Primer ZM 94 can be applied with a brush or swab. Isopropyl alcohol is used to remove Primer ZM 94.
Product shelf life:
12 months from the date of purchase, subject to the following conditions:
The primer is stored in its original packaging.
The package is tightly closed to prevent evaporation of the solvent.
Release form: metal cans with a volume of 0.946 l and 0.237 l.
As you know, the fundamental principle of successful painting is priming. The soil is a kind of foundation on which all further layers of paint and varnish are built, both factory and repair.
Most of the mistakes made by masters at the priming stage are associated not so much with a lack of painting skills (they just come very quickly), but with a lack of knowledge about the properties of various primers, with insufficient information about the correct methods of working with a particular product. Whether you want it or not, the complexity of the modern repair soil system is evident.
Indeed, every reputable manufacturer of repair materials today offers a wide range of soils. Let's try to understand this variety and answer the question: is it always necessary to use a primer, and if so, which one to choose in each specific case.
Today you will find out
Primer (from the German Grund - base, soil) - covering the base, an intermediate layer on which paints are applied.
Big encyclopedic dictionary
I would like to start the conversation about the primers used in auto repair with a short excursion to the automobile manufacturer: let's see what operations precede painting the body on the conveyor and what a primer is generally needed for. As they say, everything is easier to understand in comparison.
Before entering the paint shop from the tin and bodywork, the car body is, first of all, thoroughly degreased and washed to get rid of the contaminants obtained during the rolling of steel and the manufacture of the body on the conveyor.
Then the body is sent for chemical treatment - phosphating. This procedure is carried out by immersing the body in a phosphating solution, after which a thin film of iron and zinc phosphates forms on the metal surface, which protects the metal from corrosion and ensures high adhesion both to the metal itself and to the subsequent layers of the system.
Degreasing and phosphating are also mandatory for galvanized sheets, which are increasingly used today in the manufacture of bodywork and its parts.
After phosphating, the body is washed and dried again, after which a layer of water-borne primer with anti-corrosion additives is applied. The deposition is carried out by the method of cathodic or anodic deposition. In the first case, the process is called cataphoresis, in the second - anaphoresis.
Cataphoresis is better than anaphoresis - it provides more reliable corrosion protection for welded seams and hidden cavities. The thickness of the cataphoretic soil layer reaches 20 microns, and the application by electrodeposition ensures the formation of a uniform coating on both horizontal and vertical surfaces, and hard-to-reach places, hidden cavities, and cracks are perfectly primed.
To date, there are practically no anaphoresis installations for painting bodies, all of them have been replaced by cataphoresis ones.
Further, the cataphoresis layer undergoes high-temperature drying (180 ° C), after which one more, the last primer is applied to it - leveling. It performs a double function: firstly, it fills in and smoothes microroughnesses, creating a uniform substrate for the enamel, and secondly, it serves as a kind of damper that protects the paint from chips and cracks. Unlike cataphoresis, the leveling soil does not protect against corrosion.
Finally, after drying and sanding, a decorative coating is applied to the primed surface.
Factory body (BMW 7 Series)
Conveyor technologies perfectly illustrate the fact that it is impossible (at least for now) in one material at a sufficiently high quality level to combine anti-corrosion, and leveling, and shock-absorbing and decorative functions. Even the most modern car enamels will not provide a high-quality and durable result without thorough surface preparation, without forming a reliable base for a decorative coating.
Now is the time to move on to the main topic of our conversation - repair primers.
Primers for car refinishing
Like the primers used on the conveyor, all repair primers are divided into two large groups:
- primary - the so-called primers (from aggl. prime - main, main),
- secondary - fillers (from English fill - fill, fill).
The materials used in the repair painting differ from those used at the factory (by the method of application, drying modes, viscosity, method of surface preparation, etc.). But the functions are exactly the same. Primary ones are needed to protect the metal from corrosion and ensure strong adhesion of the paintwork to the surface of the part. Secondary - for leveling minor irregularities of the painted surface, creating a uniform substrate under the enamel and protecting the paintwork from chips.
There are soils that have the properties of both primers and fillers at the same time. Naturally, different materials are also used for application to metal and plastic.
But first things first. Let's start with the primary metal primers.
Primary primers
Primary soil - it is etching, it is anti-corrosion, it is also adhesive. Zones of its application - areas of bare metal, places most susceptible to corrosion.
Such primers have excellent adhesion to metal, because one must not forget that in addition to protective, the primary soil performs another, no less important function: the entire repair system is built on it, as on the foundation, the main requirement for which is good adhesion of each subsequent material with the previous one. Therefore, replacing this material or eliminating it can lead to the fact that the entire system crumbles like a house of cards.
Ensuring good adhesion is only half the challenge for the primary primer. Its anti-corrosion properties are no less important.
It would seem that today, when most cars are painted according to a two-layer system (base + varnish), and the varnish layer is strong and practically waterproof, anti-corrosion primer is not so necessary.
Indeed, if you paint an iron fence with modern auto enamel, then the metal will remain for many, many years. But we do not paint with you fences, but car bodies, and the situation with them is much more complicated.
The fact is that the thin steel sheets from which the bodies are made are subjected to constant alternating loads during operation, especially at the joints where the mechanical stresses are maximum. And since the top layer of varnish must have a high hardness in order to avoid abrasion and the formation of scratches, sooner or later microcracks are formed in it, which, gradually developing inward, reach the surface of the metal.
Then the matter is small: water under high capillary pressure penetrates to the metal and on a seemingly undisturbed layer of enamel, for no reason at all, an ugly red smudge appears ...
The situation is completely different when using anti-corrosion primer on bare metal. Now the development of the crack will be stopped at its boundary, since no cracks are formed in the soil itself - due to its very small application thickness (about 10 microns).
But an attempt to apply an anticorrosive primer with a thick layer, on the contrary, will lead to a decrease in its strength and adhesion properties. This is just one of those cases when porridge can be thoroughly spoiled with butter. Therefore, only one thin layer, which is also not worth sanding.
Acidic
Primary primers based on polyvinyl butyral (as it sounds!) Have the best combination of anti-corrosion and adhesion properties. They can be one-component (1K), but more often two-component (2K) PVB-primers are used (read what is one- and two-component paintwork materials).
A mixture based on phosphoric acid is used as a catalyst for the chemical reaction for these soils. That is why such soils are also called acidic or acid-containing, as well as reactive (because they enter into a chemical reaction with the surface), wax primers (from the English wash - to clean), phosphating, etc. (lovers of fine literature should be delighted).
Such primers dry quickly, have excellent adhesion to any alloys used in the automotive industry (ordinary and galvanized steel, non-ferrous metals, etc.), and perfectly protect against corrosion due to the formation of a film of insoluble phosphates on the metal surface (almost like in a factory).
The process of adhesion of acidic soil to the metal surface proceeds quite aggressively, one might say, at the molecular level. Therefore, its use can be especially recommended in metal areas with hard-to-reach places of corrosion. To some extent, the "acid maker" plays the role of a rust converter that does not require rinsing with water.
It is strictly forbidden to putty on surfaces treated with acidic soils, because during the curing of the polyester putty, an active chemical reaction occurs, which destroys the soil film. At the same time, the opposite operation, when the "acid maker" is applied to the hardened filler to protect the bare metal around the repair area, is possible without problems.
By the way, is it possible to do without etching anticorrosive primers? Sometimes you can, but more on that later.
In the meantime, let's talk about the soils applied immediately after the anti-corrosion ones.
Secondary soils (fillers)
Secondary primer is a filler, a filler, a leveler. From the name itself, the ability of these soils to fill in small irregularities on the surface of the elements being repaired is obvious.
The leveling function is more relevant specifically for a car service than for a factory - after all, there is smooth metal at the factory, here even in a nightmare you will not dream of such a thickness of soil, which is necessary to level irregularities on surfaces covered with putty. Therefore, in a car workshop, where you mainly have to deal with putty parts, the secondary soil becomes in the full sense of the leveling agent: it must hide all the pores and craters present on the putty, the risks left by abrasive processing, the transitions of coatings from one to another, etc. .d.
At the same time, the filler primer also plays the role of an insulator of a heterogeneous repaired surface from aggressive solvents that are part of the coating enamels, and also provides high adhesion to both the repaired surface and the paint. Each repair paint system has a basic acrylic two-component (2K) primer that solves all these problems.
And even though some shortcomings remain on the surface after priming, but, firstly, they are not as pronounced as on the paint (due to the high density of the leveling primer) and, secondly, it is sanded before painting. The large thickness of the leveling soils allows their grinding to a depth of 30-40 microns, which makes it possible to significantly improve the flatness of the element being repaired. The surface is smooth, homogeneous and with the required roughness - beauty!
Sandable and non-sandable
All secondary primers can be roughly divided into two types:
- traditional sanding - intended for the final leveling of the filled areas with subsequent sanding;
- non-sanding - designed to work "wet on wet", when the entire part is primed from edge to edge and almost immediately, without sanding, a decorative coating is applied.
The latter are indispensable when preparing new elements for painting or those that have already been used, but do not have defects (that is, not putty). allows you to exclude drying and grinding of the filler soil, and, accordingly, to reduce the time and material costs for these operations.
The main technological characteristics of "wet" soils are, firstly, excellent spreadability: they form a very smooth surface, suitable for applying enamels without preliminary sanding, and secondly, a minimum exposure time before applying paint. For such materials, it is usually 15-20 minutes, after which cover enamel can be applied to the primed surface and finally dried together with the primer.
Wet-on-wet primers are usually labeled as "Wet on wet", "w / w", "non sanding" and the like.
Many secondary primers, depending on the mixing ratio with thinner, can be used with equal success in both sanding and wet-on-wet versions.
High build
Standard leveling primers are applied in 2–3 coats, providing a total coating thickness of 100–150 microns. In most cases, this thickness is sufficient.
For comparison, the maximum scratch depth left by the abrasive grain of the P180 grade material is 8-10 microns.
But there are products on the market that allow you to achieve even greater thickness - up to 250-300 (!) Microns in three passes, which is comparable only with a liquid putty.
Such thick-layer soils are convenient to use for complex restoration repairs, when large areas and damaged parts are restored as a whole.
In such cases, the use of "thick" soil makes it possible to completely exclude liquid putty from the technological chain, and not only with an unconditional improvement in the quality of the resulting surface, but also with a significant reduction in time and labor costs: after all, before painting the part on which the liquid putty is applied, it it is necessary to dry first, scrub the filler and prime again on top. And High Build soils do not need this.
Colored (tinted) primers
I would not like to ignore such an interesting feature of modern secondary soils as the possibility of tinting. Tint allows, firstly, to increase the covering power of the cover enamels and reduce their consumption, and secondly, to obtain shades as close as possible to the factory primers, which means that the repaired part cannot be distinguished from the factory part even by chips that appear during the operation of the car. Such requirements are made by owners of serious, expensive cars.
In addition, when using a substrate close in shade to the topcoat, these chips will not be so noticeable and will not cause significant damage to the appearance of the car (as, for example, when using white or yellow soil on a dark car). This means that the repair of these chips can be postponed for a more convenient time for the owner.
Also, the tinted primer can be successfully used to imitate the factory painting of the engine compartment and internal cavities. After all, the pursuit of savings has already led to the fact that many manufacturers have ceased not only to varnish the engine compartment space, but also do not apply paint there at all, confining themselves only to colored primer (the so-called under-hood coating). This is especially common among Japanese and Korean cars (for example, "Nissan" is a blue metallic, and under the hood is a matte blue "non-metallic"). AvtoVAZ also recently switched to a similar technology.
In this case, the primer tinted in the desired color saves us from wasting time and unnecessary waste of materials, since without it we would have had to first apply a primer-filler, and then enamel with a matting additive.
Tinting is carried out both by adding enamels or pigment pastes to the soil, and by mixing primers of different colors with each other (of course, the primers must be of the same manufacturer).
For example, proportional mixing of white and black primers makes it possible to obtain material of any gray shade (according to the Value Shade scale), which will help to reduce the number of paint layers, which means to reduce its consumption and reduce repair time.
Several manufacturers offer complete colored primer systems. One of these is Sikkens' development of the Colorbuild system of colored primers, which includes primers in six colors (red, blue, yellow, green, black and white). By mixing these primers, you can get a substrate of 46 different colors without adding expensive tinting components of topcoats.
In spray cans
Another interesting material is a one-component leveling primer produced in aerosol cans. He earned special sympathy from the masters when used in the case when the ground was punched at several points on a part already ready for painting. In this case, aerosol soil saves a lot of time that would have to be spent on soil cultivation, filling it into the spray gun and washing it after work. After that, the applied primer must also be dried.
With the help of soil in a spray can, this work can be done in a minute, then in 5-10 minutes the soil will dry, then light sanding - and the defect is gone.
Epoxy primers
Continuing the conversation about soils, we, as promised above, will answer the question - is it possible to do without etching soils in painting?
It turns out that it is possible if a primer based on epoxy resins is used as the primary one. Epoxy primer can also be categorized as anti-corrosive. Only in contrast to acid-containing soils, which protect the metal through a chemical reaction, epoxy primer provides physical protection: thanks to its tough and rather thick film, it reliably blocks the access of moisture and oxygen to the metal.
So, these two soils perform their protective functions, albeit in different ways, but equally well. What, then, are the advantages of epoxy primer over acid builders? When and why to use it?
As you know, ordinary anti-corrosion primer can only be applied over the putty, but not under it. But in this case, it turns out that the metal will be protected only around the putty area, and there will be no additional protection under the putty itself.
And then the presence of microcracks in the metal is enough, as water, due to capillary effects, tends to get under the layer of putty from the inside. And since the putty is hygroscopic, absorbing this moisture, it begins to swell, and a freshly painted car soon literally blooms with ugly bubbles, the size of which can exceed the diameter of a five-ruble coin. That's really painted so painted!
How to protect the putty from moisture entering from the inside? This is where epoxy primer comes to the rescue: first, a layer of epoxy primer is applied to the metal, and putty work is carried out on it.
Epoxy primer is the only anti-corrosive material that can be applied under polyester putty - no more bubbles! This technology is used in top quality paint systems and allows you to extend the warranty for painted elements up to seven years or more!
Epoxy primers not only have excellent adhesion to a wide variety of surfaces (galvanized, galvanized steel, aluminum and all its alloys, stainless steel, fiberglass), they are also a good substrate for cover enamels (due to their good filling properties and good flowability). Therefore, you can cover the putty areas with a couple more layers of epoxy - and after grinding the part is ready for painting. Note that this is not the only possible option in this case, read about the rest in the article on priming.
It is also recommended to apply the liquid putty exactly on the epoxy primer and cover it on top with another layer of epoxy primer - like a sandwich. Also, this soil works well on fiberglass, and also as an insulator of old problematic coatings.
And if you treat the edges and ends of the elements with this soil, you can forget about chips and paint bursts in these places, as well as their premature corrosion. After all, it is the ends of the doors that often rust faster than the rest of the surface. This is because modern paintwork materials to improve decorative properties (reduce shagreen) have a high coefficient of surface tension, which leads to stretching of the paint at the edges and ends of the elements with a corresponding decrease in its thickness.
It is impractical to use two different anticorrosive primers in the repair process on one element. At the same time, most manufacturers categorically prohibit the application of epoxy primer over an acidic one.
Nevertheless, these soils also have some disadvantages due to their very properties - increased strength and impact strength. Because of this, epoxy primers are more difficult to process than conventional fillers. Also, epoxy primer can sometimes cause contouring when repairing a stain - again, due to its increased rigidity.
And the maximum thickness of their application is much lower than that of acrylic primers, which requires a very high quality surface treatment of parts, which is not attainable in every paint brushes. Therefore, epoxy primer manifests itself best of all when used as a primary primer, followed by application of a filler primer.
Insulating primers for incompatible coatings (sealers)
During refurbishment, in most cases we have to deal with already painted parts, including those that have previously been repaired, perhaps more than once. And here the question arises about the compatibility of the old and new coatings, since the origin of the materials of the old repair coating is unknown to us. And although no one has been painting with nitro enamels for a hundred years, as, indeed, with cheap repair "Sadolins", in car repair practice there can still be coatings that, by their properties, belong to thermoplastic materials (soften when heated or in contact with solvents).
To insulate such coatings, there are so-called insulating soils or sealers (from the English seal - to seal, isolate). They will help you to play it safe and avoid problems associated with a conflict between old and new coatings (swelling, loss of adhesion, contouring).
To check the coating for thermoplasticity before starting work on "used" parts, it is enough to carry out one simple test. Take a rag soaked in solvent and leave it on the old floor or where the paint has been damaged. If after a couple of minutes the coating has softened (the nail leaves traces on it), then it should be removed or isolated.
In many systems, primers that are designed to be wet-on-wet have insulating properties. Some of them are transparent and can be tinted, can be used both as substrates directly under the enamel, and with subsequent application of filler.
As mentioned, epoxy primer is also an excellent insulator for old coatings.
Adhesive primers for plastic
Drawing parallels with anticorrosive primers applied to metal and creating strong adhesive bonds with it, in the case of painting plastic parts, special adhesive primers for plastic are used for these purposes.
Such a primer is, as a rule, a very liquid transparent substance with a small amount of "silver" (to control application). The layer thickness is minimal - only a few microns. Basically, these are ready-to-use one-component materials.
As a rule, such soils are universal and applicable, if not to all, then to most types of plastics used in the automotive industry. You can clarify this in the instructions for the product, and you can find out the type of plastic from which the part is made by the marking on its inner side.
Most often it is plastic of the polypropylene group, always designated as PP by the first letters. For example:> PP / EPDMC<, >PP / PD< и т.п. Можно с уверенностью утверждать, что около 80% всех пластиковых деталей автомобиля (бампера, капоты, крылья, детали салона) выполнены из пластмассы этого типа. Использование праймера по пластику на таких деталях носит обязательный характер.
New original plastic parts may already be primed. Such parts do not need to be primed again.
The spectrum of all soils is, of course, not limited to the indicated materials. To consider all their types and subspecies within the framework of the article is probably an unrealistic task. But what has been said is enough to understand how flexible and versatile the system of modern repair primers is - with their help, you can solve any problem facing a painter.
All styling films have a self-adhesive backing, everyone knows this. Why, then, a primer, you ask ?! When gluing the film to curved surfaces, it stretches strongly, its adhesive layer also stretches and becomes thinner, the film must be helped to stay on the surface to be glued in difficult conditions, for this it is needed Primer 3M ! This is especially necessary when pasting concave surfaces and textured plastics. Primer 3M 94 is most often used in car vinyl, and on textured plastics in a snowmobile, cross-laced details. It is applied on a cleaned and degreased surface along the edge. |
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The main purpose of the primer- enhancing the adhesive effect of films, scotch tapes or other self-adhesive materials. Primer 3M 94 is an irreplaceable assistant when pasting a car with vinyl film! Not a single professionally done work can do without it.
All films for car styling have a self-adhesive base, everyone knows this. Why, then, a primer, you ask ?! When gluing the film to curved surfaces, it stretches strongly, its adhesive layer also stretches and becomes thinner, the film must be helped to stay on the surface to be glued in difficult conditions, for this we need Primer 3M! This is especially necessary when pasting concave surfaces. Having previously coated the glued surface with a primer, we reinsure ourselves against repeated work in such difficult areas as the stiffening ribs of the hood with a concave profile, complex-concave bumpers, places where glue is not enough. It should be remembered that the film loves to peel off at the edges of the parts, and to swell in the recesses, which is why it is advisable to use a primer.
Instructions for use of primer 3M Primer 94:
Shake the container with Primer 94 before use. The surface to be primed must be free from contamination, wipe it with isopropyl alcohol or white spirit. Apply a minimum even layer to the surface to be glued. Primer 94 should not only evaporate, but also dry a little before proceeding with pasting. Typically 1 to 5 minutes to room temperature is sufficient. Maximum adhesion occurs within 1-2 days after pasting.
For absorbent and porous substrates, it is sometimes necessary to reapply the Primer to create a uniform coating surface and good adhesion. In this case, you need to dry the first layer and only then apply the second. Primer 3M 94 is preferably applied with a swab or brush.
Primer Application Tips:
1. APPLY IN A THIN LAYER
2. It is dried
3. If even immediately after pasting it is necessary to tear off the film, consider it no longer suitable for pasting difficult places, since the primer does not come off the glue, as a result, they are both either on the machine or on the film!
For example, when pasting the hood or trunk, the primer is applied along the edge of the hood from above with a width of about 5 cm and on the reverse side under the wrapped film as well from 1 to 3 cm.Otherwise, a slight shrinkage of the film over time can cause the folded edge to peel off and may even turn the film out.
This clear yellowish liquid is used for tackifying a wide variety of self-adhesive materials. Technically speaking, it enhances the initial adhesion of the adhesive layers.
Where applicable.
The scope of application is not limited by anything, except for the recommendations of the manufacturer (3M), which, by the way, is a recognized leader around the world. Recommendations mean the acceptable materials on the surface of which the film is glued. This:- Polyethylene.
- Thermoplastic resin (aka ABS).
- PET (polyethylene terephthalate) and PBT (polybutylene terephthalate).
- Metals.
- Smooth concrete surfaces.
- Wood.
- Glass.
- Painted surfaces.
So, in any area where the above materials are available, this drug can be used.
What is it for?
Despite the fact that the self-adhesive base of the films is quite effective when applied on a flat surface, the adhesive effect along the edges is insufficient. As a result, the edges of the film flake off and bend. To prevent this from happening, a primer is used, smearing problem areas with it. But this is on a flat plane, but if it has bends, curvature and concavity, then it is generally impossible to do without this drug.The film is not only elastic, but also resilient. Therefore, it tries to take its original (even) appearance, which means that in all concave places it tries to peel off the surface. The same happens around curved places.
The use of a primer provides excellent adhesion of the film to the surface, even in the most difficult places.
How to use.
1. It is recommended to pre-degrease and clean the glued areas from dirt. To do this, it is advisable to use isopropyl alcohol in half with water.2. Allow the cleaned areas to dry thoroughly.
3. Shake the contents of the jar thoroughly so that the preparation takes on a homogeneous structure.
4. Apply a layer of primer evenly to the prepared areas of the bonded surface. The layer should be thin and uniform throughout the entire area. For application, you can use any suitable tool (brush, sponge, etc.).
5. Leave for 5-7 minutes until completely dry.
Then you can start gluing directly, but in some cases it is recommended to apply the 2nd layer of the preparation before that. For example, if the surface has a porous structure and the 1st layer is partially absorbed inside.
Naturally, the 2nd layer must also be allowed to dry.
If it becomes necessary to remove the applied primer layer, then this can be done using the same isopropyl alcohol.
Specifications.
The product has an amber hue and a pronounced solvent odor.It is stored for 1 year, provided that simple requirements are observed - that it is in a tightly closed original package.
Produced in metal cans of 0.946 and 0.237 liters.
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