How to pull together a private house. Screed house from cracks

DIY crafts. Beading. Screed of a brick house. 3 years, 1 month back # 1365. Alenka.
Content
Method 1: frame (monolithic) reinforcement
Method 2: wire mesh reinforcement

Method 4: using additives in solution

General Tips
During the construction of a house or major repairs, most are faced with the question of the need to reinforce the screed during its formation. Someone decides to save money and is content with just a concrete screed, while someone reinforces all surfaces to give ultimate strength, so to speak "for centuries." It is worth understanding the need to use floor screed reinforcement and the ways in which you can do your own reinforcement.
The construction of the screed differs into several types, depending on the intended purpose and the place of its formation. So, there may be the following options for screeds:
Rough screed on the ground or base plate;
Floor screed on floor slabs;
Leveling screed, self-leveling floor;
Screed with a layer of sound and heat insulation;
It makes sense to reinforce the floor screed in cases where a rough screed is formed and when creating a multi-layer screed with thermal insulation. In these cases, it is necessary for the reason that the screed is not performed on a monolithic and fixed base and is subjected to tensile and bending forces. Also, reinforcement can be performed in order to save concrete, if it is required, according to calculations, to form a too thick layer of concrete.
Reinforcement of the screed can be done in several ways. You can choose the right one based on the design and operational requirements and only after the calculation of the reinforcement has been made. It is quite difficult to carry out independent calculations based on the requirements of SNiP and GOST, and you can miss a lot of nuances and features, so it is better to contact the design organization for this.
Now let's consider the materials and structures that can be used to reinforce floors:
reinforcement frame;
wire mesh;
welded mesh with a mesh of 5-20 cm;
polymer mesh, fiberglass reinforcing mesh;
addition of fiber to the composition of the solution.
In any case, the reinforcement technology is performed according to a certain construction scheme.
Any reinforcing material must be distributed in the thickness of the mortar used for the screed. To do this, it is distributed over the surface strictly before pouring on special props (does not apply only to additives in the solution in the form of fiberglass).
Screed with your hands with your walls of the house with fittings. KattyMorton yulka_shh Shusyik: D the thermometer wants you to go to school tomorrow LeraKirichenko3 I hope not for long so that I can contact you in February Another round of negotiations within the framework
The composition and structure of the reinforcement should not interfere with the distribution of the mortar under its layer.
The reinforcement material must have good adhesion to the mortar. To do this, do not allow it to be contaminated with oily substances or open it with paint or other substances.
The reinforcement must be completely sunk into the mortar layer to prevent corrosion, decay, oxidation by moisture or air.
Read: Properties of aerated concrete
The formation of frame reinforcement is advisable only in cases where the base of the house, that is, the foundation and the floor screed, are an integral system for holding the building. Also in cases where it is justified by calculations and the need in view of the unreliability of the supporting soils. In this case, reinforced concrete structures are formed with a total thickness of at least 10 cm and a reinforcing frame height of at least 5 cm.Method 1: frame (monolithic) reinforcement
You can build a reinforcing frame right on the spot, using reinforcement for this. In construction, rebar sizes from 6 to 40 mm are used, depending on the design requirements and the required strength. In private construction, reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm and 20 mm is most often used.
It is possible to "knit" the reinforcement frame using steel wire 2-3 mm. At the same time, a base mesh is formed with a cell of the required size within 10-20 cm and everything is connected with the mounting of lifting ribs. The upper layer of the reinforcing frame is formed on the ribs in the form of the same mesh as on the lower layer. It is best to use solid pieces of reinforcement in length and width. If you want to use trims and less long pieces, then the reinforcement is extended overlapping with at least half a meter overlapping each other. Next, the screed is poured. This option is also called monolithic reinforcement, because the result is an actually one-piece and unbreakable reinforced concrete slab. Video: knitting reinforcement mesh
Rebar clamps can be used as an alternative to knitting or welding.
Welding is often used to form a reinforcing frame. For independent work, this option is only suitable for those who have a welding machine and have enough skills to weld thin rods and wire. By the way, in industrial construction, only professional welders who have already proven themselves are allowed to such work, because this type of work requires attention and accuracy. If the welding technology is violated, there is often a thinning of the reinforcement and wire at the joints, which negates all the benefits of the frame.
how to pull the house with 7na8 fittings and the price. Petya. The annex is brick. The house is 50 years old. It is necessary to strengthen the house with a reinforced screed due to the appearance of cracks.
Read: Ideas for alteration, repair and operation of the "Khrushchev refrigerator" with your own hands Video: forming a mesh for welding reinforcement
During the reinforcement of a concrete floor, it is often required to bend the reinforcement to form the frame. This operation should be performed only using mechanical means without heating, as is customary among some irresponsible craftsmen. With any heating, the metal changes its structure and can easily burst. Method 2: wire mesh reinforcement
A simpler reinforcement option is a wire mesh. This method allows you to strengthen the screed up to 80 mm thick. It can be used to form a multi-layer subfloor on a soil base or as a reinforcement of a screed on floor slabs in places of high stress, such as a kitchen, bathroom, hallway or garage. The reinforcing mesh should also be distributed in the thickness of the mortar with which the floor will be poured. In fact, an in-situ mesh reinforcement scheme is similar to the first step in a wireframe reinforcement. As a result, the mesh is set at a height of 2-3 cm and poured with a solution.
The mesh can be either twisted wire or welded. It should be borne in mind that welding is advisable only when using wire and fittings with a diameter of 6 mm or more. If a heat-insulating layer and waterproofing are located under the screed layer, then the binding to the walls is not made and the mesh with its edges should be 3-5 cm away from the walls.
There are ready-made metal mesh for concrete reinforcement on sale. It is enough to lay them in strips over the entire surface of the floor with 1-2 cells overlapping each other and tying them with wire. In terms of cost, this option is only marginally more expensive than using wire to form the mesh on its own. But time is spent much less and the reliability of the mesh itself is slightly higher.
Method 3: reinforcement with polymer meshes
This is one of the simplest reinforcement methods. It is mainly used not for special strengthening of the screed structure, but to prevent cracking of concrete or cement mortar during complete drying and minor deformations. Often, the mesh is placed directly on the base, especially if it is a film placed on a loose cushion or layer of thermal insulation, to prevent cracks from forming on the underside of the screed.
Read: Do-it-yourself soft walls in the interior
The most widespread use of polymer meshes was found in the process of reinforcing the self-leveling floor. This is due to the simplicity of its distribution and the peculiarities of the technology of the self-leveling floors. During their formation, the main desire is aimed at reducing the volume of the spent solution and the thickness of the resulting layer, and for this, reinforcement options using wire rod, and even more reinforcement, are not suitable. Method 4: using additives in solution
Fiberglass
In modern construction, fiberglass is gaining more and more popularity. These are polymer fibers with a thickness of about 15 microns. By adding them to a cement-sand mortar or concrete, you can strengthen the screed layer and prevent the formation of microcracks during the drying process.
Even if the conditions for proper drying and setting of concrete are somewhat violated, the risk of microcracking in concrete is significantly reduced. However, you cannot rely on microfiber to circumvent the requirements and technological aspects of forming a concrete floor.
Video: Pouring a Reinforced Concrete Slab
General Tips
When using any method of reinforcement, you can use options for adding microfiber or plasticizers to concrete. You should only follow the instructions for their use and dosage.
The process of forming a screed or self-leveling floors contains many nuances and stages in addition to reinforcement, which must be taken into account and performed in order to obtain a reliable base for the floor as a result. The most complete and complex process is the formation and reinforcement of the floor on the ground. At the same time, up to the concrete screed and reinforcement, the device of layers of sand, gravel, thermal insulation and waterproofing is performed. Violation of the technology of building such a "pie" will nullify any reinforcement efforts.

Building a house using bricks is one of the most common options today.

By the degree of coverage, the collapse can be:

1. Complete. All load-bearing external walls are deformed to varying degrees.
2. Incomplete (partial). Some walls are deformed.

In both cases, even if only one wall is collapsing, we recommend applying a preventive screed on all sides to prevent the development of movement on other walls.

Depending on the degree of collapse of the walls, measures of different depth of influence are used. We will conventionally divide the degree of camber into three categories - light, medium and strong, and tell you what to apply in each case.

Light camber

Signs

The tops of the walls are noticeably deformed in the area up to 1/3 of the height of the wall (without the height of the foundation). Cracks in the corners of openings in 50% of cases. The rest of the walls and foundations are normal (no cracks, deformations).

Cause

It occurs due to the unreliability or lack of an armored belt, roof overload, when erecting an attic floor on old walls.

Note. The most common mistake leading to roof overload is unaccounted snow load.

Elimination method

In this case, it is reasonable to use a steel mono-yoke (hereinafter referred to as the cage) on the corner stops for screed walls. In this case, as in all cases of using various clips, the rods will pass from the outside along the facade of the load-bearing walls, standing in the shape of a rectangle. Sometimes it is necessary to make technological openings for rods in the walls of the outbuildings.

What you need:

1. Steel corner 100x100 mm (minimum 75x75) - 4 m.
2. Pipe 1 inch - 1 m.
3. Stud with thread 20 mm - 4 m.
4. Stud nuts and washers.
5. A circle (steel bar) with a diameter of 20 mm or a strip of 40x4 mm - as long as the perimeter of the house.
6. Welding, painting.

Note. It is undesirable to use reinforcement for rods, since it is not designed for outdoor work and is subject to corrosion.

How to make a corner stop: on a steel corner 100x100 mm in length equal to the distance from the top of the wall to the top of the window openings plus 20%, pipe sections 150 mm long are welded on.

The number of stops is equal to the number of corners (4).

Work order:

1. The rods (strips) are welded into two continuous lashes along the walls of the house minus 200 mm (per tightening stroke).
2. Then hairpins with a free end of 200 mm are welded at the ends of the lashes.
3. The pins are threaded into the tubes and the lashes are welded together in the middle.
4. The entire structure is assembled on the ground and fixed at the required height.
5. The nuts are tightened to a state of tension.

Attention! When using steel clips and ties, remember that they are for anchoring walls. An attempt to return the walls to their original state can result in breaks and sagging areas.

The design of the steel race may vary. For example, in the case of undulating deformations, a channel can be used as one, several or all four rods. Installation will be more difficult, but the entire load from the wall will be evenly distributed over the rigid channel.

Average camber

Signs

All signs of slight collapse spread to the level of 50% of the wall height (excluding the foundation). The probability of cracks in the corners and boundaries of openings is 80%.

Cause

Weak armopoyas. Lack of a bunch of corners and masonry in the wall material, high material wear, overload.

Elimination method

In these cases, a solid corner cage is used. It is arranged similarly to the mono-holder, but along the entire height of the wall and has more tie belts. With an average camber, it is recommended to arrange three belts.

In all cases, the circle can be replaced with a 10x40 mm steel strip.

Attention! The welds must be of good quality (they hold the load). The overlap is 250 mm.

Strong camber

Signs

All signs of medium and light, but at a level of more than 50%. In the overwhelming majority of cases, it is accompanied by the appearance of deep, sometimes open, cracks along the walls and foundation.

Cause

Most often, deformations of the base or foundation are combined with the causes of slight to medium collapse. May be accompanied by partial destruction of the foundation.

Elimination method

For repairs, a solid corner frame and a retaining wall (support) or a retaining belt of the foundation are used.

The retaining wall or support is part of the reinforcement belt applied in the deformed area.

Retaining belt is a repair structural element designed to strengthen the existing foundation walls along their entire length. It is used when it is necessary to strengthen the foundation. Material - reinforced concrete.

Back-up device. Let's consider an example of a corner section. A solid belt is arranged in a similar way.

First you need to determine the size of the backwater. If we had to resort to such radical measures, it means that it is too late to calculate the load, especially since the existing foundation remains in place. Therefore, we simplify the calculations towards increasing the safety factor. The backing thickness should be 50% of the foundation wall thickness, but not less than 400 mm. If possible, the bottom of the backwater and the foundation should be at the same level. The optimum ratio of the aboveground to the underground is 1 third above the ground, 2 thirds below the ground.

Attention! Reinforcement rods at the corners must be solid (bent at 90 °). The minimum side of the corner support is equal to three support thicknesses.

Work order:

1. We excavate the damaged area and clean the trench. We clean the wall of the foundation from oils and organics, residues of waterproofing.
2. We drill holes with a diameter of 18 mm into the wall of the foundation to a depth of 200 mm in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 200 mm.
3. We drive in reinforcing pins with a diameter of 16 mm and a length equal to the thickness of the support plus 200 mm (hammered into the wall) minus 40 mm (protective layer).
4. We tie a working reinforcement with a diameter of 16 mm with a pitch of 200 mm to the pins with a knitting wire.
5. We make U-shaped clamps from 10 mm reinforcement according to the dimensions of the frame of the beam (support) 600x360x600 mm (workpiece length 1600 mm) and install them with a step of 200 mm.
6. We install the formwork by size.
7. We lay concrete (factory or prepared on site) with vibration.
8. After the concrete has set (3 days), remove the formwork and apply waterproofing.
9. We perform backfilling of soil with ramming and pouring.

Backwater reinforcement: 1 - foundation; 2 - working L-shaped rods Ø 16 mm; 3 - formwork; 4 - U-shaped clamps Ø 10 mm; 5 - rods driven into the foundation, Ø 16 mm

Costs for the device 1 lin. m backing with a thickness of 400 mm, a height of 600 mm in the manufacture of concrete on site:

Blockage

The walls are piled up inside the building. Can be complete or partial (incomplete). In different degrees of deformation (light, medium, strong), one stop method is used.

Note. To repair the blockage, it will be necessary to carry out welding work inside the premises, which is most often associated with a major overhaul of the entire building. Take care of fire safety.

Full blockage

Sign

Three or more walls are piled up inside the building (to varying degrees).

Cause

Weak armored belt, material wear, violation of technology during construction (weak solution, lack of corner reinforcement, etc.).

Elimination method

Rigid self-supporting steel frame (frame) on through fastening.

What you need:

1. Rotary hammer with a drill 18-20 mm.
2. Channel 50x100-150 - length equal to the perimeter of the walls that need to be reinforced.
3. Steel plate 200x200x3-4 mm (up to 300x300).
4. Reinforcement 16 - 3 wall thicknesses for each running meter of the frame.
5. Good welding (tension), painting.

Operating procedure:

1. Determine the perimeter of the walls to be reinforced. If necessary, we punch technological holes (for the channel) in the partitions.
2. We break each wall into steps close to 600-700 mm (but no more). We retreat ½ step from each corner.
3. We drill through holes 18-20 mm.
4. On steel plates, perpendicularly weld reinforcement pins with a length equal to the wall thickness plus 100 mm.
5. We install the resulting anchors into the holes with the plate outward.
6. Trying on each channel from the inside, mark it under the holes.
7. We burn with welding the holes in the channel for the reinforcement.
8. We paint the outer shelf of the channel with a primer (it will adhere to the wall).
9. We install the channel on the pins in the holes.
10. We weld the pins in the holes.
11. In the same way, we install the continuation of the channel.
12. When the entire perimeter is installed, we weld the channel to each other along the joint and make welded linings from reinforcement 16 - 2 per joint with an overlap of 300 mm.
13. We reinforce the corners in any way possible (for welding).

Ideal for such a holder - if it will then be covered with a false ceiling. Then you can arrange diagonal rods. If a false ceiling is not expected, cover the tire with a box.

Attention! The plates on the outside and the reinforcement welded to them passing through the inside of the wall are a strong cold bridge and it will destroy the wall with condensation. Be sure to insulate the plates, and preferably the entire wall.

Partial blockage

Sign

One or two walls are overwhelmed.

Cause

The walls are located close to a busy roadway (with tram). Washing with atmospheric waters.

Elimination method

Partial cage arrangement according to the solid principle. The side of the interrupted corner is equal to one third of the length of the heaped wall, but not less than 1.5 meters.

Arrangement of a partial inner cage: 1 - wall with a blockage; 2 - reinforcement with a plate; 3 - channel 100x50x4 mm

In case of combined collapses / rubble (when the walls diverge in different directions), use the inner frame (first of all) and the outer screed (secondly) together. In severe cases, use all the enhancement options at once or a combination of them.

Calculation of the cost of 1 running meter of the inner cage:

Outbuilding department

Let's consider the most difficult and at the same time popular case - the combined one.

Sign

A through crack along the inner corner or at the junction of the extension with the main building with a medium to strong collapse of the outer wall.

Cause

Lack of attachment to the wall of the main building during the construction of the extension (in 90% of cases). Weak foundation under the walls of the extension. Overloading of the extension (superstructure, balcony).

Elimination method

Combination of through, semi-through or anchor cage and back-up:

1. Through cage - the rods pass through the load-bearing wall and are fixed (nuts, welding) on ​​a thrust bar or plate located on the inner side of the wall.
2. Semi-through cage - one side is of the through type, the other is fixed from the outside to the embedded part.
3. Anchor clip - rods are attached to embedded parts, arranged on anchors in the walls of the building.

Extension screed options: 1 - semi-through; 2 - through; 3 - anchor; 4 - corners 100x100 mm; 5 - rods (rod, plate); 6 - main walls; 7 - plate with anchor; 8 - plate 4 mm

You can arrange any of these types of clips using the instructions above.

Rules for the construction of anchor rods:

1. A thrust bar or plate located inside the building must not hit the top of the doorway.
2. Arrange embeddable parts in the walls at a distance of 1/3 of the extension wall length, set aside from the junction of the walls, but not less than 1.5 meters. Drill 3 points with a diameter from 12 mm, depth 2/3 of the wall thickness.
3. If the number of anchor rods is more than 2, place them with a breakdown along the length of 1 meter.
4. The walls of the main building must be free from deformations and cracks.

The support can be either separate (under the outer wall) or along the entire length of the extension foundation. In this case, the reinforcement is driven into the foundation of the main building at an angle.

Most often, the types of deformations described above occur in houses made of marl or bricks laid on clay. Even in the case of the initial stage of deformations (the appearance of small cracks), we recommend using a preventive screed at home on corner frames. Remember that any metal passing through the wall into the room is a cold bridge and will negatively affect the condition of the wall if it is not insulated.

Vitaly Dolbinov, rmnt.ru

The described problem resembles a typical case changes in bearing capacity due to changes in hydrogeological conditions. The bearing capacity of the foundation of the house became insufficient, and after the very first crack, it began to actively collapse at an increasing rate (now much less forces are needed for the development of destruction). The reinforcement in the foundation and masonry (armored belt) is most likely absent, and after the appearance of a crack, there is nothing to hold the walls of further destruction.

This problem is fixable. In any case, you should check with the design engineer, giving him the opportunity inspect the building structure in detail... Surely, the costs of restoring the integrity of the house will be incomparable with the cost of erecting a new similar structure or the risk of its sudden catastrophic destruction.

Restoration work procedure

1. Provide an opportunity for specialists examine the house in detail, including a fragment of pits along the foundations, punching walls for sampling and studying their construction.

2. If necessary, perform reinforcement of the foundation... There are many ways and techniques, so it is difficult to advise anything without studying the real situation. If from a specialist there is a recommendation to strengthen the foundation with an increase in its depth, you should first strengthen the house according to the recommendations below, and then return to strengthening.

3. It is necessary inject cracks and pull off the building... This requires:

3.1. Clean the plaster along the cracks down to the brick. The width of the cleared strip is at least 5 cm.

3.2. Flush the cracks water from a hose under pressure. Remove loose pieces of old mortar from cracks and any other debris accessible to removal.

3.3. Glue the fiberglass along the cracks on epoxy glue. After 20-30 cm, leave holes with a diameter of 8 mm.

3.4.Fill in the cracks repair staff. Normal tile adhesive gives good results. The solution should be diluted to the state of liquid sour cream. As an injector, a syringe gun is also used to seal the seams of the panels or a conventional silicone gun with an empty bottle of some kind of sealant. Cracks are filled from bottom to top from the outer and inner sides of the wall at the same time to the hole. Then you need to close it with a stopper (you can use plasticine), rearrange the injector higher and repeat the operation. In this case, it would be preferable to use a professional injector.

3.5. Pull down the building strands of smooth reinforcing steel according to this scheme.

The braces should be placed under the ceiling of the 2nd floor and above the floor of the 1st floor. Due to the high coefficient of thermal expansion of steel, they should be placed only inside the house. The range of rolled metal in the figure is roughly indicated, based on the assumption that the building is brick and has a maximum size of 8x8 m. The screw tightening process should be started at the highest possible temperature inside the building. Tighten the screws evenly throughout the building. At the end of this work weld the nuts with electric welding, paint the metal parts, plaster or concrete the ties and nuts with plates on the facade, complete the final finishing.

What to do if cracks appear in the wall of the house- is the problem, naturally, urgent not only for the residents of Saratov and Engels? A common occurrence, especially for brick houses. The foundation of the house has burst, the corner has moved away, cracks have started along the walls - do not wait for your house or summer cottage to fall apart - take measures.

Before covering the cracks with cement mortar, you need to strengthen the house. This is called pulling the house from cracks.

A metal screed for a house in Saratov is the installation of a kind of metal frame on top of a building so that the house does not "diverge" further. But just physical labor is not enough here - theoretical knowledge and skills of an experienced welder are required to perform screed work at a house in Saratov.

Our specialist visits Saratov to assess the complexity of screed work at home.

So, when a crack has appeared on the wall, in no case should it be covered up or foamed with polyurethane foam. pull down the house, and only then cover up. This is done in order to mind heal cracks when contraction.

The next stage to which you need to pay attention is the foundation, you need to determine the place where it sagged, it can also be strengthened but by another method.

Another important point is blind area at home.If the blind area has burst and departs from the basement or foundation, it must be replaced along the perimeter of the house, with reinforcement reinforcement into the foundation.

House Pulling Price 6 x 6 RUB 25,000 - without additional work.

alex-stroy64.rf

Can a crack break everything?

Of course, it can, if you do not attach importance to this right away. Cracks in the wall can be both harmless to the integrity, and turn a home into a heap of stone and dust, which can take away not only a lot of valuable things, but also human lives.

You see, a crack formed in the wall (in most cases) is just the tip of a huge iceberg, which is confidently moving towards the foundation, destroying it too. It makes no sense to explain what the danger of a split in the foundation is, since everyone knows what it will eventually lead to.

If you argue correctly, then it is not a crack that leads to the foundation, but on the contrary, it emanates from it, since only a serious physical impact can begin a split from the center and lead to two or more sides. In any other way, such an injury cannot form near the building.

You may encounter other reasons if your building was built of bricks that were laid out with gross errors. They often appear as a result of saving money on auxiliary materials that serve as the prevention of these diseases.

Why is this all happening at all?

There may be more than one reason, since a lot of factors affect the state of the foundation. Having identified the most basic ones, we are ready to present them to you:

• displacement of earth rocks from the seismic activity of the area. In the countries of the post-Soviet space, the phenomenon is quite rare, but, nevertheless, in some areas at the foot of the mountains, such cases take place. Even the Crimean mountains, not to mention the Caucasian ones, are no exception, from time to time making themselves felt by minor earthquakes. They are imperceptible to humans, but they can quite noticeably affect the foundations of buildings;
• climatic conditions also do not stand aside. Even though nature does not have bad weather, the foundation does not think so. From excessive moisture or, conversely, its lack, earth, clay, sand or their synthesis can sag from time to time, thereby affecting the position of the foundation, lowering one of its parts, forming cracks that will force you to pull the walls;


• trees could grow near your house, the power of the roots of which easily breaks through the foundation. In my memory, next to my parents' house, literally three or four meters from the wall from the side of the backyard, the previous owners planted a nut. By the time we moved there, it was already a little more than ten meters in height, and its roots were close to the building itself. After 3 years of our residence there, a crack about three centimeters wide and more than two meters long opened on the outside, which was very elegantly hidden by the old owners who had gone far away with the help of putty and whitewash. The unfortunate nut turned out to be the reason for this. The natural solution to this problem was sawing a tree, which also incurred certain losses. The first is permission to cut a tree, since you cannot engage in amateur activities in this matter. The second is a broken roof from falling branches, because it was insanely difficult to direct them in the right direction. And the third is a crack in the foundation, which later had to be reinforced with reinforcement;
• an initially incorrect design or place of construction can also cause splits in the walls of the house.
  significant cracks up to one millimeter wide are not normal, but acceptable for new buildings, so if you have one, do not be alarmed ahead of time. Almost all scientists and builders claim that any building takes about five years to sit normally on the surface of the earth due to its enormous weight. Do not ignore such moments at all. Any crack that forms should be monitored so that it does not begin to grow in size. If this happens, then this is a sign of improper construction, and you need to contact the developer for the necessary advice or even assistance. If you notice that cracks have appeared in your house, then you urgently need to contact specialists in this area, because only they can provide you with qualified support.

How to deal with cracks in the walls yourself

Any distortion in the foundation and therefore in the walls requires immediate repair. Many of us may face the problem of insufficient funding and looking for a more budgetary and independent restoration of the integrity of your home.

There is, of course, a solution, and, purely theoretically, it will not require a colossal amount of financial investments and physical strength from you, since pulling the crack is a very real task for any person.

Yes, it is with the help of an artificial reinforcement screed that you can strengthen the foundation and prevent your house from splitting in half, as if the world had begun to divide into continents again.

What is a screed and what does it consist of

The screed is the only solution that will help you suspend or root out the likelihood of a complete destruction of the house. Why suspend? You see, if the building was erected with errors in the construction itself or in an unsuitable place for this, then the process of destruction cannot be stopped. Whatever you do, you will only delay the outcome of the event. Naturally, this is if the problem is in the foundation. If you find that the wall itself is the cause of the split (it can be made of brick or wood), then everything will be a little easier.

If you have shown a desire to independently repair the resulting breakdown, then you will need certain skills, without which it will be a little tough:

• in order to save a lot and not buy an already welded screed, you can limit yourself to buying fittings and electrodes, and then welding the required size of the reinforced mesh on your own. So, the first is welding and the skills to use it.
• fittings. Something without which you will not be able to make a screed either for the base of the house, or for its brick or wooden components. She will be exploited in many ways, but her presence is mandatory. Why? The armature has the necessary ratio of size and strength in order for the structure itself to be as convenient, reliable and, if necessary, aesthetic;


• to strengthen the lower part of the base of the house, you will need a large amount of concrete mortar, the method of application of which I will tell you a little later;
• the piles will come in handy when shaping the area to be filled with concrete. And then you will need to give it the desired shape. Do not skimp on them, as low-quality wood can break and force you to redo all the work again. If you are not interested in the aesthetic beauty of the foundation, and you do not want to spend extra money on logs, think about how much money you will throw away on excess concrete mortar, which will certainly creep around the house for a distance of about half a meter.

Let's move on to the practical part of installing the screed on the base of the house

We have read stories and theories, but now we will analyze how to do it all in practice. The very first thing you will need to do is arm yourself with a shovel and, if possible, equip several of your acquaintances or hired workers with them in order to speed up the process. Begin to excavate the ground where the rift originates. Go deeper to a depth of about half a meter. It is possible that more depth will be required, given that it depends on the height of the building, its number of storeys and the load it creates. You can find out the depth of the foundation from the house plan.

It is necessary to excavate not only the place where the breakdown occurred, but also along the house at a distance of one and a half, and preferably two meters. This distance is also determined situationally and individually for each building. What is a large moat for? If you strengthen a small part, then the split will repeat itself much faster than you have time to cook dinner and raise a glass to a job well done.

The second stage will be the construction of the reinforced mesh. Reinforced mesh consists of rods of reinforcement welded in such a way as to create a mesh with squares, the side of which can be at least ten centimeters. If you decrease this distance, then the solution can simply split in two without fixing the required area.

An increase in this indicator leads to the fact that the reinforcement process does not in any way contribute to an increase in strength, but only creates the appearance of the work performed. If the financial issue does not play a big role, then it is better to make a double grid, that is, to build it in two levels. This will require more concrete but will give extra strength.

A little life hack: it is possible that you do not have enough funds to purchase the required amount of reinforcement for the screed. If time does not allow you to wait, then you can replace it with an ordinary concrete pillar. Yes, it will not give the same level of durability, but it will quite confidently serve as a temporary structure. And if we take into account the fact that there is nothing more permanent than something temporary, then we get an excellent alternative.

Once you've built the mesh, you need to firmly anchor it to the foundation of your home. Drill holes and install mesh. You can take your time to close up the formed cavities, because in the next step everything will become clearer. This ends the third stage.

The fourth is the installation of piles. In some cases, they are not needed, but if you have made a serious dig into the house, then they will come in handy. Install piles and wooden fences in order to proceed with the next step.

Fill everything with concrete. A very important point is that in no case should you fill the screed by manually filling the cavity between the mesh and the house. This process involves only pouring a concrete solution. Otherwise, all the work will be done in vain and will not show any result. The building will continue to deform.

After you have done everything that we indicated above, wait for the concrete to harden. This will take up to one week, depending on the climatic conditions in your area.

But what if the trouble happened on the masonry?

It is much easier to pull down the walls of a brick house, but it is unlikely to lead to a complete solution to the problem posed.

The reason for the formation of holes between the bricks, if the base of the building is not touched, is the incorrect laying of the stone itself. The right solution would be to demolish the wall and re-erect it, but if you cannot afford to demolish and rebuild everything, then there is also a solution. Let's look at it step by step:

1. Determine where the rift started. It was on this row that a construction error was made.
2. Install threaded holders on one side and on the other side of the wall to hold the tension reinforcement. Do not forget that the thread must also be on the reinforced rod.
3. Pass the reinforcement through the holders and fix it. Stretch the bar as much as possible to create tension. Do not overdo it with it, as you can pull out the extreme brick.

If the split in the wall is small, then you can use regular dowels along the entire crack.

There is a lot of information on the Internet on how to properly pull the walls. If you enter into Google the query "the wall has moved away how to pull the video", then the darkness of assistants will instantly come running to your aid. For example, here is a video on what to do if a similar situation occurs with a house made of timber:

But do not forget that the best assistance is provided by qualified professionals. Do not skimp on your home if you do not want to be left without it.

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Very often, the owners of private houses, especially brick ones, are faced with the problem of cracks on the walls. This happens due to the shrinkage of the foundation, deformation of the soil structure, with a strong flow of groundwater or with improper use of the building.

How the wall is repaired will depend on the cause of the cracks. The most difficult and difficult to repair a defect that arose as a result of poor-quality installation of the foundation. In this case, in addition to repairing the wall, it is necessary to carry out work to eliminate defects in the foundation and only after that proceed with the removal of cracks. Otherwise, if you neglect the repair of the foundation, all other work will be meaningless.

Most often, cracks near the walls of a brick house appear above the openings of doors or windows. If they are small, then they can be filled with a special liquid fraction. This is done in such a way that it fills all the empty space. If this method does not help, then you need to strengthen the window and door lintels.

In the event that such measures did not help, you need to think about how to pull off the wall of a brick house. Such measures are used to eliminate large cracks. To eliminate the vertical gap in the brick, holes are drilled through and through, into which metal fasteners are then inserted. These fasteners are steel beams that are pulled together with special studs. When the damage to the masonry is very significant, the wall opening should be completely disassembled and laid out again.

If the damage to the building is located in a horizontal position, in order to correct the malfunction, it is necessary to use metal plates. Such plates must be installed in the gap in such a way that a seam connection is obtained. This will allow you to reliably strengthen the structure of the house. This must be done, since such horizontal damage can lead to the fact that the wall is completely displaced.

When the damaged sections of the structure have both horizontal and vertical directions, steel brackets should be used. For their fastening holes are punched in the wall. And the final fastening is done with steel strips.

When repairing masonry, it should be remembered that the sooner a crack is found, the more efficiently it can be repaired. This is due to the fact that the longer it is unattended, the larger it becomes. In the future, this will lead to the fact that the house cannot be repaired and it will completely collapse.

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Screed houses with fittings

To perform this type of work, certain skills and abilities in welding are required, and you should also correctly calculate the required amount of reinforcement and its diameter. These parameters are determined depending on the area of ​​the entire building and the damaged areas.

You can carry out these events yourself, but it is better to contact a specialized organization. The professional employees of the company also take into account the degree of destruction of the building, the number of floors, the type of foundation and the type of roof, as well as the characteristics of the soil and territory.

In some cases, in places where the walls are not particularly destroyed, it is recommended to lay out new masonry, and in areas with an increased degree of destruction, pull them together using reinforced and more durable reinforcement.

Required materials for reinforcement screed

For screed with reinforcement, the following materials and tools are required, which include:

• Armature;
• Hairpins;

Rebar screed technology is not complicated and consists in the following: special corners are attached to the corners of the house, into which studs are threaded and washers and nuts are screwed. The screed of the house is carried out using nuts, which are regularly tightened depending on the state of the building.

Valve characteristics

Reinforcement bars are elements that are interconnected by means of concrete and are reinforced concrete tensile beams. It is also used to impart increased strength and rigidity to various structures. Its components can be rigid (various corners, channels and rolled I-beams) and flexible (meshes, frames and profile bars).

There are several ways to connect reinforcement to concrete, which include:

• Interaction by friction;
• Shear method;
• Coupling during concreting of a reinforcement element;
• Compound at the electrochemical level;
• Compression with concrete after shrinkage.

Rebar classification

Today the fittings have the following classification depending on different characteristics.

Depending on the scope of use:

• Strained;
• Unstrained.

Depending on the intended purpose:

• Working;
• Mounting room;
• Anchor;
• Constructive.

Depending on the location in the structure:

• Transverse;
• Longitudinal.

The main types of house destruction

Screed house from cracks is performed as a result of the following reasons, which lead to a violation of the integrity of the house.

And the following applies to them:

• Collapse;
• Blockage;
• Branch of the extension.

Features and description of the collapse of the structure

Mostly the collapse of the house leads to the formation of cracks in the upper corners of the openings, and the walls are deformed by waves or separated by the entire surface.

This type of destruction can be complete or partial. Full assumes a change in the state of all load-bearing walls of the structure, and partial - only some of the partitions.

Light collapse of the house

The main signs of such destruction include cracks in half of the corners of the openings, deformation of the head of the walls up to one third of the height with the normal state of the foundation.

The reason for the occurrence of such processes can be the significant weight of the roof, the construction of an additional floor, as well as the absence of a reinforcing belt. In order to eliminate this, it is necessary to use a steel cage on the corner supports.

The rods pass along the facade of the outer walls, and to complete the work, you will need steel corners, a pipe, studs and nuts, a steel bar, subsequent cooking and painting.

Average camber

The main signs of such destruction are all the same reasons that are observed with a slight collapse, but with a probability of up to 80%.

The reasons for the appearance may be an insufficient reinforcing belt, a significant overload and the absence of a bunch of walls and corners during the initial construction of the building.

In this case, it is recommended to screed along the entire perimeter of the house in three levels of overlapping steel belts to ensure better and more reliable fixing of the walls. In this case, the steel circle can be replaced with a strip, and the welds must be of excellent quality.

Strong camber

The main signs are the appearance of noticeable cracks in the walls and foundation of the building, as well as a combination of other reasons that are inherent in light and medium destruction. The reason for the appearance may be the destruction of the base of the house.

To exclude the complete destruction of the building, a continuous support and corner frames are used, as well as a support belt of the foundation.

To strengthen the foundation, reinforced concrete is laid along the entire length of the base.

Description of the blockage of the house

A blockage implies a blockage of walls inside the house, which can be complete or partial. In all cases, welding work is performed in the middle of the premises, which, as a rule, requires major repairs in all rooms of the building.

For complete blockage, three walls are blocked up to varying degrees. The reasons may be a broken technology for building a house and an insufficient reinforcing belt. For elimination, a rigid steel frame with a through fastening is used.

Watch the video:

For a partial blockage, two walls are blocked up, which may be caused by the negative effects of moisture or precipitation. For repairs, a partial cage is used according to the solid mounting principle.