Not so long ago, metal-plastic windows were considered a kind of "elite" element of a house or apartment, accessible to very few wealthy owners. Today the situation has changed - these window systems have become less expensive and have become widely used by almost all average families. They significantly outperform wooden ones both in terms of the degree of insulation, and in terms of sound insulation, and on by fitting all the elements, which becomes a reliable barrier to drafts and street dust. And just outwardly, such windows are very nice and easily fit into any design of the house and its premises.
In a word, both during the construction of new housing and during repairs, the issue is almost always unambiguously resolved in favor of installing just such. There are a great many companies, large and small, involved in their assembly at the present time in almost all regions of the country. Large companies immediately include their installation in the price of their windows - with large volumes of production, they can afford it. But you can often meet small private enterprises that require a separate fee for installation - and this is about 2.5 ÷ 3.0 thousand rubles at the present time. It is clear that the thought immediately arises - is it so difficult to install a plastic window with your own hands? Is it possible to save on this by carrying out an independent installation?
It turns out that this is quite doable. The main thing is to understand the process technology well and immediately prepare the necessary consumables. And, of course, during installation, exercise increased accuracy, strictly follow the installation instructions.
The main stages of installing a plastic window
Must be carried out in a clear sequence. This technology has already withstood the “test of time”, and it will not be advisable to make adjustments to it at your own discretion.
- First of all, the necessary measurements are carried out, an order is made for the window structure.
- After the window is manufactured and delivered, the old frames are dismantled, the opening is cleaned, and it is adjusted - if necessary.
- The next step is preparing the new window for installation. It may vary - depending on the chosen method of installing the window, which will be discussed below.
- The most important step is the correct installation of the window in the opening, its vertical and horizontal alignment, leaving the required gaps, and fastening to the walls.
- Next, there is a sealing of the seams between the frame and the opening, providing hydro- and vapor barrier.
- The next step is to install a low tide outside and a window sill inside the room.
- The final adjustment of the window mechanisms is carried out, the installation of the necessary fittings.
- When the room will be finished, window slopes are installed.
Now about the main stages - with all the details.
Two main ways of fixing plastic windows
Before undertaking independent work, you need to understand a little theory.
- Firstly, one should not be taken for window installation by someone who does not quite accurately represent his device. First, let's look at the window from the outside:
1 – Window frame assembled from PVC profile.
2 – Openable window sash, also made of a special profile. It can open in several planes, for example, be tilt-and-turn. It is suspended from the frame by means of special fittings, which allow precise adjustment of the sash position.
3 – The central post is an impost dividing the common plane of the entire window into two or more parts. The material of manufacture is the same frame profile.
4 – Installed in the opening sash or directly into the frame profile (with the "deaf" part of the window) double glazing. It can be single-chamber (two panes) or two-chamber (3 panes).
5 - Fittings. In this case, the handle of the opening sash is shown.
6 - PVC window sill, which is usually ordered, purchased and installed at the same time as the window itself.
Now let's look at the same window in a section (for convenience, continuous numbering is used, that is, if the positions coincide with the top figure, their numbers are saved):
- The frame profile (pos. 1) has several air chambers (usually from 3 to 5 ÷ 6) - the more there are, the higher the thermal insulation qualities of the window system. Profiles are counted along a horizontal line in the direction from the street to the room. In this case, the figure shows a three-chamber profile.
— Inside the profile there is a reinforcing metal profile (pos. 7). This element etc idae T t the required rigidity of the frame structure.
- The sash profile is arranged in approximately the same way (pos. 2). The number of chambers is usually the same as on the frame; a reinforcing metal element is also placed inside (pos. 8)
- A double-glazed window in the frame or in the window sash is held with glazing beads (pos. 9).
- The diagram additionally shows the installation of a PVC panel window slope. Pos . 10 - starting profile, pos. 11 - PVC panel, pos. 12 - also made of PVC.
Of course, windows from different manufacturers may have their own characteristics, the shape of the cross-section of profiles and reinforcement, the number of air chambers, the design of the double-glazed window, but still the typical scheme remains the same.
More details about, and how to choose the right model for it, are described in a special publication of our portal.
- Secondly, you need to decide on the method of fastening the window in the opening. In practice, two main approaches are used - installation directly through the frame with dowels or anchors, or installation using brackets (anchor plates) previously fixed to the window.
A. In the first case (in the figure - on the left), the frame is drilled through, and a hole is made in the wall coaxially with the hole in it. The fastener is inserted through the frame, tightened, and its head will then be hidden by the installed double-glazed window or covered sash.
Advantages of this method:
- The window in the opening is set much more accurately.
- The fixing strength of the entire window system is higher, so this approach is the only possible one for large windows (2000 mm or more on either side), or where high external loads are expected (especially windy places, high number of storeys, etc.)
Flaws:
- The window requires mandatory disassembly - removal of glazing beads and double-glazed windows, opening sashes. For the inexperienced master it's an extra problem, since when dismantling the glazing beads it is easy to scratch or even bend, and the removed double-glazed window requires especially careful handling. For the need for disassembly, this method is often called installation with unpacking the window.
- Violation of the integrity of the profile (drilling it through) reduces its thermal insulation qualities, and under certain conditions can provoke.
- This installation takes longer.
B. Installation on anchor plates or other brackets fixed on the end part of the PVC window frame. After placing the window in the desired position in the opening, these platinums are fastened with dowels or anchors to the wall (schematically shown in the upper figure on the right). The window sill and further finishing of the slopes will hide them from view.
Advantages:
- Such installation is easier and faster, especially if regular anchor plates are used, which fit snugly into the grooves intended for them on the end of the profile.
- The integrity of the profile is not violated - there is no need to drill through it.
- There is no mandatory need to disassemble the window - you can install it in a mounted form. (Because of this, this method is sometimes referred to as "without unpacking"). True, this advantage can be called very conditional, for several reasons at once. Firstly, windows are most often delivered unassembled from the manufacturer. Secondly, it is very difficult and dangerous to mount a window assembly with double-glazed windows installed, especially on a high floor, due to its large mass. And thirdly, filling the remaining gaps from the outside, providing external waterproofing and installing a low tide is still more convenient to carry out with completely removed double-glazed windows.
Flaw, in principle, one that has already been mentioned - in terms of the strength of the installation, in terms of the resistance of a large window to weight and wind loads, this method is significantly inferior.
Taking measurements
Immediately it is appropriate to make one very important remark. The owners of the apartment, one way or another, will have to contact the company that manufactures windows to place an order. The best situation would be when a representative of the manufacturer comes and independently takes all the necessary measurements. Firstly, a specialist in this matter has much more experience, and the probability of error will be minimal. Measurers, as a rule, are already familiar with all typical buildings, and it is much easier for them to deal with the nuances of window openings. And secondly, if it suddenly happens that the manufactured window for some reason suddenly does not correspond to the opening, then all responsibility will fall on the employees of the company, and the customer will have the right to demand the manufacture of the correct window structure.
Measurements are most often a free service. Very often, in serious companies, the measurement of the opening is included in the cost of the order and is not paid additionally, so there is no need to fool yourself.
If, nevertheless, it is decided to carry out measurements on your own, then you should first understand the configuration of the window opening.
- In panel high-rise buildings, most often there are openings with a quarter - a monolithic side on both sides and on top of the opening, forming such way the outer slope of the window (in the figure - on the left).
- In brick houses, there is usually no quarter - the opening is formed by straight planes perpendicular to the wall (in the figure - on the right).
Measurements of different openings have their own characteristics.
Measurement of a window opening with a quarter
When measuring a window with a quarter, it is taken into account that on both vertical sides and from above the window frame should be a quarter by 15 ÷ 25 mm, and at the same time there must still be a gap to fill it with mounting foam.
So the measurement is done like this:
- Outside, in several places (top, center, bottom), the distance is measured strictly horizontally A between opposite slopes. Given that the window should go on them by 15 ÷ 25 mm, 30 ÷ 50 mm are added to the resulting distance. In this way, the required window width is preliminarily obtained.
Now measurements are taken inside. The width of the opening is determined WITH at its widest point, at the level of the wall (also horizontally in several places - for control). Not to be confused with magnitude V, which shows the distance between the slopes at the frame itself - this indicator in this case has no determining value.
Now you can compare the previously obtained width of the required window with the width of the opening. On each side, at least 20 mm must remain on the sides for sealing with mounting foam. It is possible to correct the ordered width, as there is a certain range of window setting by a quarter.
- Now about the height of the window. The entry of the frame to the upper quarter remains the same. lower quarter, usually, it does not happen in the openings, since a window sill and an external ebb are installed here. For their installation, it is necessary to additionally use an installation profile under the window frame. Most often, manufacturers mount it even in the process of fulfilling an order, but it never hurts to check.
An important structural element is a substitution profile So, how to correctly measure and calculate the height of the window:
Measurements are taken from the outside - from the upper quarter to the point where the tide located at an angle (if it is standing) touches the outer corner of the opening ( F).
To this value is added 15 ÷ 25 mm - this is the entry of the frame into the upper quarter. Now you need to subtract 30 mm - this is the height of the installation profile. Under it, there should also be a gap for sealing - from 5 to 20 mm. They are also subtracted from the resulting value. The result should be the required height of the window.
For control, measurements are made inside - from the top point of the opening to the window sill ( E), and then you need to try to measure the distance from top the surface of the window sill to the “bare” opening (sometimes it makes sense for me to remove the window sill altogether, since it will change soon anyway). The resulting opening height will allow you to check the correctness of the calculations - window height + substitution profile + not less 20 mm from above and 5 ÷ 20 mm from below for sealing with polyurethane foam.
Note - if it is not planned to install a substitution profile (which in itself is already a serious drawback), then the gap between the frame and the opening from below is left not less than 40 mm.
You can immediately take measurements to order a window sill, low tide and slopes.
- The length of the ebb is equal to the distance between the quarters (A) plus 50 mm. Width - the distance from the window to the edge of the opening plus 20 ÷ 30 mm.
- The length of the window sill - the maximum width of the opening ( WITH) plus 50 mm. The width is usually standardized and the most suitable option for specific conditions is selected, taking into account the distance from the frame to the corner between the opening and the inner wall, plus the desired distance of the window sill to the outside (usually another 30 ÷ 50 mm).
Measurement of a direct opening, without a quarter.
With a simple straight opening, measurements and calculations will be much easier.
Measuring for a direct opening - much easier The opening is measured vertically and horizontally at several points, in the widest places (in the diagram - a).
- The width of the window will thus be equal to this distance minus two mounting gaps. WITH. We take it, as before, for 20 mm, that is, in the end we subtract 40 mm.
- The height of the window is determined by the difference between the height of the opening, the mounting gap from above (20 mm) and the thickness of the mounting profile (30 mm) and 10 mm of the gap below it. If the profile is not installed, then the mounting clearance from below is 40 mm. In total, 60 mm is subtracted from the total height of the opening.
Otherwise, the measurements remain the same as with a window with a quarter.
If the measurements are done, you can go to place an order. But one more time not superfluous will repeat - it’s better to call the measurer to the house so that he takes into account all possible nuances, for example, a slight skew of the opening, which arose due to the shrinkage of the building.
Preparing Instruments and Consumables
While the window is being made, it makes sense to start preparing for further work. It is necessary to prepare the tool and consumables for installation.
Of the tools and materials you will need:
 | Perforator with a set of drills (6, 8 and 10 mm) and a chisel-blade |  | Screwdriver with bit set |
|---|---|---|---|
 | Drill 10.2 mm for metal |  | Screwdriver Set |
 | Roulette |  | Building level, better than 300 mm long |
 | Construction knife |  | Marking pencil |
 | Rubber or special plastic hammer for PVC windows |  | Spatula, width 50 ÷ 60 mm |
 | Hacksaw for cutting PVC |  | Wood saw |
 | Anchor plates - if the method of fastening "without unpacking" or combined is used |  | Drive-in dowel nails, Ø6 mm - for anchor plates or Ø10 mm - when fastening through the frame. |
 | Metal frame dowels (anchors) Ø 10 mm |  | Self-tapping screws 4×16 and 4×25 |
 | Pre-Compressed Self-Expanding Sealing Tape (PSUL) |  | Thermo-vapor barrier tape PPE, best of all - foil |
 | Vapor Permeable Diffusion Tape |  | Mounting foam and a gun for its application |
 | Silicone sealant - a small tube should suffice. |  | Wedges for window alignment. You can use specialized plastic ones or limit yourself to wooden ones. |
The table needs clarification:
I.First of all, we deal with the number of points for fastening. It depends on the size and design of the window. There are certain standards that ensure reliable fixation of the window system. Below is a diagram of the approximate placement of points for fastening. Three of the most common options - a window with an impost, a completely blank window and a balcony block.
In all three cases, there are three main quantities, A, V and WITH.
A- the distance from the inner corner of the window frame to the fixing points. Be sure to put two points from the corner, both vertically and horizontally. The value A is taken equal to from 150 to 180 mm.
V- the maximum distance between adjacent points on one side of the frame. It is taken equal to:
- for "white" PVC windows - no more than 700 mm.
- for windows made of colored PVC profiles - 600 mm.
WITH- the distance from the impost to the attachment point towards the larger sash (if two wide sashes are the same, then it is better to install fasteners on both sides). The value of this distance is from 120 to 180 mm.
Having such a scheme in front of your eyes and knowing the linear dimensions of the ordered window, it is easy to calculate the required amount of fasteners. It is advisable to even immediately sketch out a scheme for arranging points for fasteners - this will be a good help when carrying out work.
II. What type of fasteners will be needed? It depends on the wall material and on the method of fixing the window in the opening.
If the “unpacking” fastening method is used, that is, through the frame, then metal, frame dowels (anchors) or dowel-nails with a diameter of 10 mm are taken. At the same time, it is advisable to use anchors on concrete, brick (solid or hollow brick), expanded clay concrete, foam concrete walls or made of natural stone. Dowel nails are preferred on walls made of materials that do not have a high degree of compressive strength, such as lightweight concrete or other porous materials. They will also fit hollow blocks and bricks.
In the case when installation on anchor plates will be used, it will be enough for each attachment point of two dowel-nails with a diameter of 6 or 8 mm. In addition, the plates themselves will be needed - and it is better to purchase them in the same organization that manufactures the window - special hooks on the plate must fit exactly to the PVC profile. To fix the plate, in addition, you will need self-tapping screws with a drilling tip 4 × 25 mm - one piece for each attachment point.
The length of the main fasteners must be such that, taking into account the thickness of the frame and the width of the mounting clearance, a minimum penetration into the thickness of the wall is ensured. For various wall materials, it has its own value - see the table:
Small 4 x 16 self-tapping screws may be needed to attach the sill and accessories for installing the window sill. They are also needed if it is planned to install a mosquito net on the outside of the window - they attach plastic brackets to the frame profile.
- The PSUL tape is purchased with the expectation that it is enough for the entire perimeter of the window. It is installed in such a way as to seal the gap between the window and the adjacent quarter - on the sides and top. And from below it will be attached when installing an external tide. If the window opening is without quarters, then, accordingly, less tape will be needed.
- PPE tape with foil - it will be necessary to completely isolate the perimeter of the window from the inside.
- Vapor permeable diffuse membrane tape - will cover the bottom side of the window from the outside when opening with a quarter, and it is desirable to glue it around the entire perimeter, if the opening is straight, without a quarter.
- Polyurethane foam: the best option is to purchase cylinders with "pro" - foam, which will require a special gun to use. It does not give "inadequate" expansion, like cheap ones sold in spray guns, and will not have a deforming effect on the frame racks. In addition, it is much better, more durable, it is much easier to apply it to the right places, without unnecessary overspending.
- Finally, silicone sealant. It may be needed to seal narrow gaps between the frame and the window sill or slopes. With proper installation, the gaps, if any, are very small, that is, a large amount of sealant is not required.
And finally prudent the owner will purchase a film that will cover furniture, walls, floors in the room where the window will be installed - at first the work will be quite dusty.
Dismantling the old window
After the window is made and delivered to the place of work, you can move on. It is clear that before installing a new PVC window, it is necessary to dismantle the old one and free the opening. This work is quite dirty and laborious, but you can’t do without it. An approximate sequence of actions is in the table below:
| Miniature | Description of the operations performed |
|---|---|
 | First of all, the largest sashes are removed. For example, if a balcony block is dismantled, then the door is removed. There is an important nuance - it is possible to remove sashes or doors along with glass only if the design has retained its rigidity. If the window "plays" or is very rotten, then for reasons of elementary safety, the glass is first removed and taken out. |
 | It is recommended that all dismantled parts be taken out of the work area immediately - there is a high risk of accidentally breaking the old window glass and getting injured. |
 | If the side of the window has a window, then first remove it. If it was not possible to unscrew the old hinge fasteners (and most often this happens), then you will have to make an effort - usually this is enough to remove the window. |
 | Windows are usually hung on hinges, from which they can be removed by simply lifting them from below with a pry bar. |
 | All windows and vents are removed - you can proceed to dismantle the frame. |
 | First, the central rack is removed - the impost. To make this easier, the import is cut closer to the bottom of the frame. It is necessary to cut with a hacksaw - in some videos, the masters flaunt the fact that they use a “grinder” for this. To repeat after them - in no case should it be - it is extremely dangerous! |
 | The sawn impost itself becomes a lever, which will not be difficult to break out of the frame. |
 | Next, the lower jumper of the frame is removed. Again, for ease of dismantling, it is advisable to cut it using a jigsaw. |
 | Using a pry bar or a nail puller as a lever, one of the halves is pulled up. |
 | If there is resistance at the place of its attachment with a vertical stand, then you can help yourself with a mount there |
 | After that, the second half is broken out in the same way. |
 | After removing the lower jumper, the window sill is dismantled. It can be knocked out with a hammer from the side of the street. |
 | The window sill is removed and exposes the lower plane of the window opening. |
 | Go to the vertical stand. Often it is tightly wedged from above and below. Then it is better to move it somewhat away from the wall, and also cut it with a jigsaw. |
 | It will not be difficult to pull out the two halves of the rack one by one |
 | The upper part of the frame on one side is no longer supported by anything, and should move away without any problems. |
 | The last vertical leg of the frame should also not resist if it is properly pry with a pry bar. Sometimes, in order to get to the gap between the racks of the frame and the wall, you have to cut off the plastered slopes with a puncher. |
 | The last stage is the cleaning of the vacated window opening from the old sealant, construction debris, etc. cleaning is carried out very carefully so that the opening remains completely clean before installing the window. Ingoda it makes sense to use hard brushes and a vacuum cleaner. All garbage is loaded into bags and immediately removed from the work area. |
Sometimes you have to resort to correcting the opening - removing defects in concrete casting, mortar residues, etc. The easiest way to do this is with a puncher by installing a chisel-shovel on it. It is also advisable to immediately drill small grooves in the wall on both sides, about 50 mm wide and deep and about 30 high, at the place of the future installation of the window sill.
After cleaning the dust, one should not be too lazy and walk around the entire opening with a layer - this will strengthen the surface to a certain extent and improve adhesion with the mounting foam.
Preparing a new window for installation
A. If it is planned to install the window “with unpacking”, then it is advisable to stipulate the order even at checkout so that it is brought disassembled (and this is most often the case). If not, then you will have to disassemble it yourself.
- First, glazing beads are removed from the blind sash. They can be pry off with the blunt side of a knife or a spatula, starting from the center. Then, when the first gap appeared, it is expanded by gently moving the instrument in one direction and the other.
The main thing is to carefully pry the glazing bead in the center The glazing bead should disengage in the groove and separate in the interlock. Then it remains to put your fingers under it and carefully separate along the entire length. It is advisable to number the removed glazing bead - so that there is no confusion during reinstallation. But it is better to make a mark with a pencil from the inside out - the pencil mark is very hard to rub off from the PVC surface.
- is retrieved. It is most convenient to do this with a special suction cup, but if it is not there, then you can do it that way. Caution - the double-glazed window is quite heavy and may have sharp edges - it is better to work with gloves.
Please note that plastic inserts may be located under the double-glazed window. Their position will need to be marked in some way so that during installation they stand in the same place.
Prices for a popular line of windows
Video: how to remove a double-glazed window from a PVC window
- It is not required to get a double-glazed window from the opening sash - it is enough to remove the sash itself. It is quite easy to do this. To begin with, the sash handle is transferred to the “closed” position - it looks down. From both hinges, from the top and from the bottom, the decorative casing is removed - it should be easy to pry off with a thin screwdriver. Then we move on to the top loop. It has an axial vertical pin, slightly protruding outward. It is pushed down, and then either carefully knocked out using a thin screwdriver (its diameter should be less than the diameter of the pin), or pulled out by picking it up with pliers.
After that, the sash handle is transferred to the "open" position. The door leans back on top of itself, and then is removed by a translational upward movement from the lower axis. The removed sash, as well as dismantled double-glazed windows, are temporarily removed from the working area so as not to be accidentally damaged during further operations.
Video: how to remove a PVC window sash
- The next step in preparation is drilling holes for fixing the window in the opening. To do this, according to the previously drawn up layout of points for fastening, the centers of the holes are marked and slightly punched. A drill for metal Ø 10.2 mm is inserted into the chuck of a drill, hammer drill (switched to non-impact action) or a screwdriver.
Drilling is best done from the outside of the frame. In this case, the drill, having quickly passed the PVC layer, immediately, without distortion, rests against the reinforcing profile. After it is passed, there will be one insignificant obstacle in the form of the inner PVC surface of the frame. If you change the direction of drilling a hole, then it is much more difficult to achieve its perpendicularity and evenness of the edges.
- Checks for the presence of a wildcard profile. It is attached from below with a conventional locking connection, entering the grooves of the frame part. If for some reason it is not available, then it is advisable to purchase and install it. Most often, it does not require additional fastening. Experienced craftsmen advise in advance, about a day before installing the window, to fill the cavities of this profile with mounting foam so that it does not become a “weak link” in the thermal insulation of the entire window system.
- The protective coating is removed from the outside of the frame. If this is not done immediately, then it will be very difficult to separate the film that has been in the sun at least a little. And in general - it will be difficult to remove the protective coating from the outside after installing the window. On the inside, this coating can be removed later.
If there is a mosquito net on the window, now is the time to mount brackets for it. They are mounted on self-tapping screws 2 × 16 mm, screwed to the PVC profile.
Their placement should be such that it does not interfere with the pressing of the window to the upper quarter of the opening, and that the mesh is securely fixed, as well as its installation and removal by its translational movement upwards until it stops against the upper brackets.
- The last preparatory step in this case is gluing the PSUL tape on three sides of the window, in those areas where the frame will be pressed against the quarters of the opening.
Usually PSUL is placed in such a way that between its inner side facing the center of the window and the edge of the quarter there is a gap of about 3 ÷ 5 mm.
B. If it is planned to install the window on anchor plates, then the preparation process will have its own characteristics.
- Firstly, the deglazing of a deaf sash may not be carried out - it will be enough to remove the opening ones. True, this has already been mentioned, installation will become somewhat more complicated due to the large mass of the window.
- Secondly, anchor plates are installed at the intended attachment points. They have serrated or even hooks, which must perfectly match the grooves on the outside of the frame profile. It is enough to make a moderate effort, for example, knocking out with a mounting hammer - and they will fall into place.
Installing the anchor plate in the profile groove ... There is a hole in the center through which they are fixed to the profile with a 4 × 25 mm self-tapping screw - after passing through the reinforcing metal profile, it will securely hold the plate in place. The plates are fixed perpendicular to the frame, and then they are bent so that they fit into the window frame when installed. opening.
... and fixing it with a self-tapping screw On the opening itself, on its slopes, in those places where the plates will fall, recesses can be made in advance with a perforator. The goal is to reach the wall material, having beaten off the unreliable plaster layer (if any), and facilitate further work on finishing the slopes - the plates will not interfere with this. However, such an operation, especially when installing a window in a “bare” opening, is not mandatory - all this can then be closed with a finish.
The rest of the preparation steps do not differ from those about to which were mentioned above.
Installation and fixing of the window in opening
Very carefully, in compliance with all precautions and, possibly, additional insurance against tipping the frame outward, it is exposed to the window opening. If the opening is with quarters, then the frame should fit snugly against them through the glued PSUL.
The next most important task is to very accurately set the frame in vertical and horizontal planes, and the building level becomes the main tool. You can give one good advice - temporarily fix the window approximately in the center on top of the anchor plate - the degree of freedom will be preserved, and it will be much easier to work.
The level is set on the inner plane of the lower jumper of the frame - that's why the tool is preferable dl other 300 mm. The absence of vertical blockage of the frame is checked by applying a level from the side of the room to the impost and to the side posts.
To ensure the necessary clearances on all sides and the correct position of the frame, wooden or plastic wedges are used.
Plastic ones are definitely preferable, and if you can get them, then this would be an ideal option. They "work in pairs", engaging one after the other through small teeth. Moving (knocking) them one relative to another, you can set the desired height to the nearest millimeter.
You can, of course, completely get by with wooden wedges or linings, but often this requires trimming, replacing, installing several pieces in a “pyramid”, etc.
The wedges should wedge the window so that you can move on to fixing it in the opening.
When installing fasteners using the “unpacking” method, experienced craftsmen often practice making a hole in the wall directly through the already drilled channels in the frame profile. This is quite acceptable, but only if the installer is 100% sure of the quality of the wall, the power of the tool, and the hardness of his hand. It happens that the perforator drill hits an obstacle, a beating begins, which, if not kept, can turn a neat hole in the PVC profile.
Drilling a hole right through the frame is dangerous enough If there are any doubts about this, it is better to carefully mark the centers of the holes with a puncher, then remove the frame, and then start drilling. True, in this case, you will have to re-set the window to its previous position and wedge it, but with drilled holes, this will already be easy to do.
Driving the anchor into the prepared nest ... The anchor is inserted into the hole directly through the frame, knocked out with a hammer until it is completely immersed, and then twisted, but without a "fanatical" effort so that the head does not deform the PVC profile. If dowel nails are used, then the plastic part is inserted first, and then the expansion nail is carefully driven in.
… followed by tightening The fastener heads are decorated with special plugs, to be sure, lightly lubricating them from below with a drop of silicone sealant.
When installing a window on anchor plates, the process is even easier. They are finally given the desired bend so that they fit snugly against the surface of the window opening. Holes are drilled directly through their holes in the wall Ø 6 mm, into which dowel-nails are installed and hammered.
Window installed using the method "without unpacking" The standards define two fasteners per plate, although, judging by the numerous photographs on the Internet, many masters are limited to one. Probably, nevertheless, with two - more reliable, and they are not at all expensive. However, sometimes the steepness of the bend of the plate simply does not allow you to install two dowels.
Sealing gaps
After the window is securely fixed in the opening, you can proceed to sealing the gaps between it and the opening, installing a window sill and low tide.
An important note - in the case when the installer decided in order to save ( absolutely unjustified) to use inexpensive "household" mounting foam, you must first assemble the window - install the sashes and double-glazed windows. The fact is that such a foam has a very significant expansion force, which can lead to even slight deformation - deflection into the frame profile. And even a slight curvature can lead to difficulties with installing a double-glazed window or closing the sash, which means that the window needs to be given “standard” rigidity before foaming.
Filling openings with high-quality "professional" foam will not entail such consequences. With the help of a pistol, which has a long and easy-to-use mouthpiece, filling is carried out upwards. In no case should there be internal cavities - the foam should lie evenly and tightly. Its residual expansion is insignificant, which makes it possible to economically control its consumption. Particular attention is paid to narrow cavities, for example, under the staging profile.
While the window is in a disassembled state, nothing prevents you from checking the filling of the openings with foam from the outside, if necessary, making certain adjustments. This is especially important if opening has no quarters.
If the width of the gap between the frame and the opening is more than 20 mm, then it is likely that you will have to fill it with foam in two passes, with a pause between them of 2 ÷ 3 hours. The quality of the filling will only benefit from this.
Mounting - an excellent insulation, but very vulnerable. It must be protected from sunlight and excessive moisture. This should be done immediately after it completely hardens (in about a day), and the excess is cut off.
If opening does not have quarters, then you should not delay with the device of external slopes, which should completely hide the hardened layer of foam from direct exposure to ultraviolet rays. Solutions here may be different, for example, plastering or paneling.
But in any case, it is recommended to first cover the outside of the foam with a diffuse membrane - it is necessary to ensure the free exit of water vapor into the atmosphere, while preventing the penetration of moisture from the outside. Moisture, if it accumulates in the thickness of the insulation, is capable of damaging effects when freezing and expanding.
And from the inside, another tape is used - PPE, which has both hydro and vapor barrier qualities. It will not allow from the inside either a direct ingress of water into the insulation layer, or the penetration of steam. In addition, the foil layer facing the room is another frontier of reliable thermal insulation.
Installing a window sill and tide
A. Installing a window sill can be done in different ways. So, they are mounted on glue or mounting foam, on special brackets or same using self-made fasteners made, for example, from straight hangers, which are usually used with galvanized drywall profiles.
Ideally, the window sill at its base should fit into a special groove for it on the substitution profile. Sometimes the frame design itself implies the presence of a special quarter, designed specifically for mating with the window sill plane. If it is not there, then the panel can be slipped under the frame profile, wedged from below for a snug fit to it.
To make it easier to understand, an approximate diagram of the correct installation of the window sill and low tide is given. Pay attention to location film membranes.
Consider the option of installing a window sill on mounting foam, as one of the most common.
- Wedges are placed under the window sill panel (again, better adjustable plastic ones), with a step of 400 ÷ 500 mm. The panel itself is cut to the exact size, often taking into account a slight penetration into the wall on both sides. You can cut the window sill with a hacksaw with a fine tooth.
- Then, by adjusting the height of the wedges, they ensure that the panel inserted into its intended slot on the frame or staging profile is occupied in an exactly horizontal position.
- Now the window sill must be loaded so that when the space below it is filled with foam, it does not move from the set position. The load can be given by placing on the windowsill evenly along the entire length, for example, water containers.
- The space under the window between the wedges is completely filled with mounting foam. She will and thermal insulator and act as glue.
- It will be possible to remove the load only after the foam has completely hardened.
- If a small gap remains between the frame and the window sill, it is carefully sealed with white silicone sealant.
B. The next is the installation of a low tide from the outside. An exemplary circuit is shown in the figure.
The place of fastening of the ebb is already covered vapor permeable a membrane that completely covered the mounting foam. It is recommended to glue the PSUL strip along the opening plane - the ebb located at an angle will rest on it, which will create another barrier against the penetration of moisture from the street.
The ebb itself is attached to the substitution profile with 4 × 16 self-tapping screws, with a pitch of 100 ÷ 150 mm. It can be mounted flush, and then it makes sense to smear its edge with silicone sealant. But it’s even better if its curved edge enters from below into a special groove of the production profile - then you won’t have to be afraid of rainwater penetrating under the tide at all.
Just like the window sill, it makes sense to slightly deepen the plane of the wall on both sides by gouging grooves for this. Then it will be easy to fix them with plaster.
Final window assembly
When the installation of the main elements is completed, it is necessary to bring the window into fully working condition.
- Double-glazed windows are inserted into place, using those plastic linings¸ that were originally installed. According to the numbering, glazing beads are mounted in place. This is most conveniently done with a special rubber or plastic hammer. The glazing bead should sit exactly along its entire length - straightness, an audible click and the absence of a gap will indicate that it has clearly taken its position.
- The removed sashes are installed in place - how to do this has already been described and shown above. After installation, the operability of the mechanism for opening and closing the sash in all modes and the tightness of its fit to the frame are immediately checked.
- If necessary, an accurate one is made (how to do this - in a special article of the portal). If there is no need for adjustment, then the hinges are closed with decorative casings.
In fact, the installation of the window is completed. Only the issue of installation remained unresolved - but this is already a topic for separate consideration, which is also paid attention to on the pages of our portal.
Finally, detailed Video instruction for the installation of metal-plastic windows. Read, watch, evaluate your strengths in order to make a decision - is it feasible to install a plastic window with your own hands, or does it still make sense to turn to specialists for help?
Video: instructions for self-installation of PVC windows
Plastic window structures are rapidly replacing their wooden counterparts from the market. If you also decide to replace old windows with more modern designs, it will not hurt you to familiarize yourself with the instructions for installing new PVC windows yourself. Professional installers charge quite a lot of money for such work. Does it make sense to overpay if you can handle all the tasks yourself?
It is assumed that before starting the installation, you have already decided what size of windows will suit you, what configuration new systems should have, what fittings you will order, etc. Deal with the solution of these issues on your own or with the help of a consultant of the company to which you decide to entrust the manufacture of plastic windows.
Immediately before starting installation, you need to decide whether you will fasten the windows through the frame or use the method that involves the use of special fastening "lugs".
The first option is more common. However, it may seem inconvenient to you for the reason that before starting the installation, you will need to remove the hinged doors from the frame, and remove the double-glazed windows from the deaf doors.
The second option is more convenient for self-installation - you don’t have to disassemble anything, therefore, the risk of damage to the structure and violation of its tightness is minimized.
When choosing the second method, find yourself an intelligent assistant in advance. The window in the assembly weighs quite a lot, and installing it yourself is incredibly difficult.
Preparatory work
Right before the installation of PVC windows, you have to perform a number of important preparatory work.
Site preparation
When ordering windows, specify when they will be delivered to you. Start preparing the site shortly before the delivery of the windows.
First step. Move all furniture and appliances away from the window opening.
Second step. Cover the floor and radiators with a protective film or thick cloth.
Third step. Organize your workplace so that nothing interferes with you, and everything you need to install the window is at hand.
First step. Remove the sashes and dismantle the double-glazed windows if you prefer the method of fixing through the frame.
To remove the double-glazed window, carefully pry off the fastening bead with a simple chisel and, with a careful blow on the same chisel, snap the fastener out of the groove. First, pull out the vertical fixing glazing beads. Then, in the same order, get rid of the horizontal fasteners.
In order not to get confused in the future, be sure to mark the fasteners. Their size may differ slightly, but even a difference of a fraction of a millimeter will be enough for gaps to appear.
Second step. Tilt the window frame. The double-glazed window will independently come out of the mounting grooves. Carefully place the removed double-glazed window against a wall or other stable surface at an angle.
Third step. Remove the plugs from the canopies of the wings and unscrew the fixing bolts. Next, you need to release the upper part of the swing window sash. To do this, turn the knob "for ventilation". Get the hook located in the lower canopy.
As a result, you will get a “bare” frame with jumpers.
Fourth step. From the inside of the window frame, prepare holes for the anchor. Place holes around the perimeter of the product so that there are at least 3 attachment points on each side, and at least two at the bottom and top.
The diameter of the anchors for fixing windows is 0.8-1 cm. To create holes, use a drill of the same diameter.
If the plastic window is fixed using special "lugs", the disassembly of the structure can be ignored. In such a situation, all preparation comes down to fixing the fasteners from the kit to the frame with screws.
Video - How to remove glass from a PVC window
Window dismantling instructions
First step. Remove or tear out the sashes, depending on the design of the window.
Second step. File the box and frame at several points.
Third step. Pry off each part of the structure with a crowbar and remove the frame from the opening. In some situations, it is more convenient to immediately find two-hundred nails, due to which the window is held, and pull them out.
Fourth step. Remove the heat-insulating and sealing materials that appear under the box.
Fifth step. Dismantle the old slopes with a puncher. If the slopes are in good condition, you can not touch them. At this point, be guided by your plans for the further design of slopes.
Sixth step. Pry and dismantle the old window sill.
Seventh step. Get rid of the cement backing under the window sill and at the bottom of the window opening. A perforator will help you with this.
Eighth step. Collect construction debris in suitable containers and take it to the trash. Take the remains of the dismantled window there.
Ninth step. Align the ends of the opening, clean them of dirt. Prime surfaces.
Tenth step. Relevant only for residents of old wooden houses. Lay waterproofing material around the perimeter of the opening. In some situations, it is required to additionally install a wooden reinforcing box.
If necessary, the dimensions of the opening can be reduced with a cement screed. At this point, be guided by the conditions of your particular situation.
Installing and pinning a new window
Proceed with the installation of a pre-prepared window.
First step. Lay special plastic substrates or wooden blocks on the bottom end of the opening. Select the dimensions of the substrates in such a way that their upper faces are connected in a straight horizontal line.
Substrates are laid in the corners and in the center of the opening.
Second step. Install a “bare” or assembled frame on the substrates, depending on the window installation method you have chosen. The substrates do not need to be dismantled, they will continue to perform their supporting function.
Without substrates, the window can simply fall out. Anchors, no matter how often you check and tighten them, will still loosen under the weight of the structure. Therefore, for additional strengthening of the substrate system, it is necessary to place not only at the bottom, but also along the side faces, closer to the top of the opening.
Third step. Check the horizontal position of the window structure using an ordinary water level.
If deviations are found, add pegs or get rid of unnecessary elements of the substrate.
Fourth step. Check the vertical position of the window. The detected deviations are eliminated in the same way as in the previous step.
Fifth step. Proceed to fixing the window with anchors in accordance with the chosen method of fixing.
Fastening by the method "through the frame"
First step. Take a puncher and directly through the holes prepared in advance in the frame, drill similar holes for fasteners in the wall.
Second step. Fasten the lower part of the structure from two sides. To do this, you need to insert and fix the anchor, but you do not need to immediately complete the fastening to the end.
Third step. Make sure the window is vertical. Immediately correct the deviations according to the pattern already familiar to you. If everything is fine, drill holes in the center and top of the window frame with a puncher. Insert and tighten the anchor. Information about the required number of fasteners was given earlier.
Fourth step. Recheck the window for evenness. Get rid of deviations immediately if they are found.
Fifth step. Tighten the anchor all the way. Do not overtighten them, as the frame can be deformed from excessive tension.
Video - How to install a PVC window
Plate fastening
In this case, special plates will be used to fix the window. They are placed on one or two sides of the window block. The plates are made of thick metal and look like "ears". In such elements, holes for anchors are initially provided.
With this mounting method, you need to bend the mounting plate into a step. The "ear" of the plate should fit as closely as possible to the wall surface. The second part of the plate is bolted to the frame.
Fastening is carried out with the same anchors. The window is fixed in the same order: bottom first, then top and middle. At each stage of installation, be sure to check the evenness of the placement of the structure. Without respect for the vertical and horizontal levels, your window simply deforms over time.
Assembly and final check of the window
After fixing all the anchors, proceed to the assembly of the window, if you originally disassembled it. The process is performed in the reverse order of disassembly.
First step. Insert the double-glazed windows into the window frame and fix them with glazing beads, first at the top, then at the bottom, and finally on the sides. A rubber mallet will help you snap the glazing beads.
Second step. Hang back and fix the swing sashes accordingly. Follow the reverse order of dismantling them.
Make sure the flaps move normally. In the normal state, the sash does not make any unauthorized movements when it is opened 45 degrees and 90 degrees.
Third step. Complete the check and seal existing gaps between the walls and the newly installed window. Fill the gaps with special mounting foam in cylinders.
On this, the main work on the installation of PVC windows by hand is considered completed. In the end, you just have to install a plumb line, window sill, mosquito net and make slopes at your discretion.
Installing a window sill (Read the article about installing a window sill with your own hands). Wetting with water. Dedusting
Installing the window sill Laying out the cement mortar
Window sill installation. Wetting with water. Dedusting
Window sill installation. Alignment. Grout
Window sill installation. Drying
Window sill installation. Finished work
Successful installation work!
If you or your friends have previously used the services of companies for the installation of double-glazed windows, then you know that installation can be ordinary and in accordance with GOST. The second option is more expensive, but if all the requirements are met, then the quality will be much higher than in the first one (for more details about the standards, see GOST 30971-02).
Consists of several stages.
Note! When manufacturers do not give a guarantee if the measurements were not carried out by their employees. If the windows are installed incorrectly, they will soon begin to freeze, and if even the slightest mistake was made in the calculations, then the structure simply will not enter the opening.
However, if you study all the subtleties of the process, then there will be no difficulties during installation. Moreover, this way you can save a decent amount of money.
Video - Installation of PVC windows in accordance with GOST
Stage 1. Measurements
In most apartments there are openings without a quarter.
Note! A quarter is an internal frame 6 cm wide (or ¼ of a brick, hence the name), which prevents the window from falling out and strengthens the structure as a whole.
If there is no quarter, then the frame will be installed on anchors, and the foam will be closed with special flashings. Determining the presence of a quarter is quite simple: if the inner and outer widths of the frame are different, then there is still a quarter.
- First, the width of the opening (the distance between the slopes) is determined. It is recommended to remove the plaster so that the result is more accurate.
- Next, the height is measured (the distance between the slope from above and the window sill).
Note! Measurements must be repeated several times and take the smallest result.
To determine the width of the window, two mounting gaps are subtracted from the width of the opening. To determine the height, the same two gaps plus the profile height for the stand are subtracted from the height of the opening.
The symmetry and straightness of the opening is checked, for which the mounting level and plumb line are used. All defects and irregularities must be indicated in the drawing.
To determine the width of the outflow, 5 cm should be added to the already existing outflow for bending. Also, the width of the insulation and cladding is taken into account (subject to the subsequent finishing of the facade).
The dimensions of the window sill are determined as follows: the size of the departure is added to the width of the opening, the width of the frame is subtracted from the received figure. With regards to departure, it should cover the heating radiator by a third.
Note! measured after installation.
Stage 2. Order
After measurements, the finished drawing should be taken to the window manufacturer, all the necessary fittings will be selected there. It is worth remembering that installation can be performed in one of two existing ways:
In the first option, you will have to pull the package out of the frame, insert it into the opening and install the glass back. In the second case, the entire structure is attached entirely. Each option has disadvantages - if you pull out the package, then it can; and vice versa, if the window is installed assembled, then it can be damaged due to its large weight.
Prices for a popular line of windows
Stage 3. Preparation
This stage of installation begins only after the delivery of the ordered windows. First, the workplace is vacated, all furniture is covered with plastic wrap (there will be a lot of dust).
Step 1. If required, a double-glazed window is removed from the window. To do this, the glazing bead is slightly tucked in with a staple and pulled out. First of all, vertical glazing beads are removed, then horizontal. They are necessarily numbered, otherwise gaps form after installation.
Step 3. The bolts are unscrewed after the plugs are removed from the canopies. The handle is turned to the "ventilation mode" (in the center), the window is slightly opened and removed. Only the frame with imposts remains.
Note! Imposts are special lintels intended for dividing sashes.
Then you need to make markings for the anchors and make holes on it - two from the bottom / top and three from each side. This will require anchors ø1 cm and a drill of the required diameter.
If the material from which the walls are made is loose (for example, cellular concrete), then fastening is carried out using anchor hangers. The latter should be fixed on the wall and frame with hardened self-tapping screws (eight pieces each).
Note! To avoid the formation of a thermal bridge in the window sill profile, it must be filled the day before installation. So the element will not freeze through.
Stage 4. Dismantling work
This procedure is recommended to be carried out immediately before installing a new window. In most cases, the old ones are thrown away, so the structure can be pulled out along with the mount, and, if necessary, the frame can be sawn.
Step 1. First, the seal and thermal insulation are removed.
Step 3. The window sill is removed, the cement layer under it is cleaned off.
Step 4 Adjacent surfaces are treated with a primer (by the way, many installers forget about this). In the case of a wooden opening, a layer of waterproofing material is laid around the perimeter.
Note! Installation can be carried out at a temperature not lower than -15ᵒС. Mounting foam must be frost-resistant.
Stage 5. Installing a plastic window
Step 1. First, wooden wedges are placed around the entire perimeter, a window is installed on them (it will be easier to align the structure), only after that it is fixed to the wall. Substrates can be left - they will serve as additional fasteners.
Step 2. The absence of a stand profile can be considered a gross violation of GOST standards, since it is not only needed for stability, but also makes it possible to install an ebb with a window sill. In the absence of a profile, they are attached directly to the frame, which violates its tightness.
The correct location of the stand profile is shown in the diagram.
Step 3. Next, the evenness of the window is checked in three planes, for which the mounting level and plumb line are used. It is characteristic that traditional bubble levels are not suitable for this due to insufficient measurement accuracy, therefore it is better to use.
Step 4. If the window is straight, then it is fixed with anchors. To do this, a wall is drilled through pre-prepared holes in the structure with a puncher (about 6-10 cm). The lower anchors are fixed (not completely), the evenness of the package is checked again, after which the remaining points are attached.
Note! The final screed is made only after the final check. Do not tighten too much, otherwise the design will “skew”.
Prices for mounting foams and cleaners for mounting guns
Mounting foams and cleaners for mounting guns
Stage 6. Drainage
Outside, an ebb is attached to the stand profile with self-tapping screws. The joints are carefully sealed with sealant to prevent moisture from penetrating into the structure.
The edges of the tide are recessed into the walls for several centimeters, having previously made recesses with a perforator.
Note! Before installation, the lower slot is also sealed.
Stage 7. Assembly of the window
After fixing the anchors, the double-glazed window is inserted back.
Step 1. The glass is inserted and fixed with glazing beads (the latter should snap into place, for which you can lightly tap them with a rubber mallet).
Step 2. The flaps open, the tightness of their fit is checked. In the open position, arbitrary opening/closing of the sash cannot occur if the window is level.
Step 3. A mounting seam is sealed on the sides. Polyurethane foam will provide high-quality waterproofing and prevent glass from fogging. Before and after sealing, the joints are sprayed with water to improve polymerization.
Note! The seams are filled no more than 90%, otherwise the structure will “lead”. If everything is done correctly, after drying, the foam will come out a few centimeters.
Step 4. The perimeter of the window is glued with a special vapor barrier tape, and a material with a foil surface is used from below.
Stage 8. Installation of the window sill
Step 1. The window sill is cut in such a way that it enters the opening and at the same time rests against the lining profile. There remains a small gap (about 1 cm) for thermal expansion. In the future, the gap is hidden by plastic
Step 2 Wooden wedges are placed under the windowsill. It must be laid with a slight slope towards the room, and then applied with something heavy for a while until the foam dries. Additionally, the window sill can be fixed with anchor plates.
Video - Instructions for installing plastic windows
conclusions
Now you know how plastic windows are installed, so you can safely get to work. The final check of all elements can be carried out only 24 hours after the end of installation (then the foam will already “grab”).
The described technology is quite applicable to, although there are some nuances there too - such as, for example, installing a parapet to create a partition.
Find out how to do it right from our new article.
The technology for installing plastic windows in a brick house differs from the rules for installing PVC profile products in concrete or panel walls. It is important to understand these differences before starting installation work and avoid mistakes.
Installation of plastic windows requires a set of tools and consumables.
Plastic windows in a brick house can be installed on anchor plates or bolts. Their dimension depends on the depth of the quarters into which the product will be attached, as well as the quality of the brick from which the walls are laid. It can be gas silicate, foam concrete, etc.
//www.youtube.com/watch?v=PkRy0THGINA
If the installation is carried out in a secondary housing stock, before installing the window, you must first remove the old frame from the opening. This will require:
- removing sashes from hinges;
- removal of the old;
- dismantling of the window sill and low tide;
- removal of roofing felts and tow, once used to insulate the opening;
- beating old plaster, if necessary, alignment of the geometry of the opening.
For dismantling, you will need a small crowbar. If the frames are massive enough, then to facilitate the scrapping process, you can use a hand saw for wood or an electric jigsaw.
To drill holes for fasteners, you need a puncher, to fasten the frame to the anchor - a screwdriver. You will also need a construction knife with replaceable blades, a level, good quality construction guns for foam and sealant.
What materials are needed to install a plastic window?
Installation of plastic windows is a multi-stage process. At each stage, it is necessary to use various consumables:
- mounting wedges;
- professional foam;
- PSUL or acrylic sealant;
- waterproofing tapes;
- anchor plates or bolts.
- cyacrine;
- sealant.
Mounting wedges are needed to level the level, if necessary, they are placed under the stand profile.
Mounting foam- insulating material for filling the installation seam, i.e.
space between wall and window frame. Professional pistol foam must comply with the temperature regime of the season in which the installation of a plastic window is planned.
PSUL (pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tape) is glued around the perimeter of the window frame and expands from the street side of the seam - from the edge of the frame to a quarter. It looks like gray foam. If there are no quarters, a special acrylic sealant will be required.
A waterproofing tape made of membrane material is placed under the ebb for ventilation and protection of the bottom seam from moisture.
Sealant is needed to fill the seams where the window sill adjoins the slopes and the window frame.
How to fix a window in an opening?
The rules for installing plastic windows are explained in detail by GOST R 52749-2007 “Mounting window seams with vapor-permeable self-expanding tapes. Specifications". This state standard prescribes that before you start installing a window in an opening, stick a PSUL around its perimeter.
This self-expanding material is an independent mounting layer that cannot be covered with plaster, putty, or painted over. Otherwise, the insulating material will not perform its functions.
When inserting the frame into the window opening, you should adhere to the tolerances. The deviation of the window frame in the horizontal and vertical plane should be no more than 1.5 mm per 1 m of length, but not more than 3 mm for the entire height of the window.
//www.youtube.com/watch?v=J4zdj8hP5As
The frame is attached to a brick wall according to the following rules:
- from the inner corner of the frame to the first fastener, the vertical distance should not exceed 150-180 mm;
- from the impost to the fastener horizontally, this distance is recommended at 120-180 mm;
- vertical anchors - with a gap of 700 mm for white plastic windows and 600 mm for laminated profiles.
The inserted block must be checked for deviation from the level and foamed around the perimeter.
Assembly seam device
PSUL along the perimeter and foam insulation are only 2 parts of the three-layer filling of the assembly seam described by GOST.
After foaming the frame, it is necessary to remove the installation wedges from under the support profile and fill the voids with foam. For better adhesion, the inner surface of the window opening can be moistened with a spray before foaming.
Before installing the outflow from the outside, a waterproof vapor-permeable tape should be glued. The ebb is screwed to the stand profile with self-tapping screws. The edges of the tide must be bent to the outer slopes to avoid moisture getting under it.
On the inside of the window along the perimeter (except for the lower horizontal part of the frame), a vapor barrier is glued, which provides an additional sealing layer to the installation seam and isolates it from moisture. Such a tape is produced in various widths and can be glued both under wet finishing of slopes (plaster) and under dry (slopes made of expanded polystyrene or plastic). They also produce universal tapes for slopes.
A vapor barrier is also installed under the window sill: a full-butyl tape with a foil layer.
We collect the installed window
The frame installed in the opening and foamed around the perimeter must be assembled.
Double-glazed windows are inserted into the deaf, non-opening parts. To fix (fix) the installed double-glazed window, you will need a medium-sized Plexiglas hammer. The glazing beads are cut at an angle of 45° and inserted into the frame along the perimeter of the double-glazed window with some force. In order for the glazing bead to finally snap into place, it must be lightly knocked out with a hammer.
If the installed window unit has opening sashes, it is necessary to hang them on the hinges. It is not difficult to cope with this task, since modern window fittings are very easy to operate.
But putting the sash in place is not enough. You should check its performance and, if necessary, adjust it in the hinge part using a special adjusting key.
To check how accurately the level of the plastic window is, you need to open the sash. If by inertia it does not slam shut or open wider, then the block is installed correctly.
Installing window sills and slopes
The installation of wooden windows, like plastic ones, cannot be considered complete if a window sill is not installed. The window sill is snapped into place and attached to the support profile.
If voids under the window are found during dismantling, you can fill them with insulation, for example, rolled or tiled, and then install a window sill.
For the final finishing of the opening, you need to understand how to properly install the slopes. They can be plastered or assembled from expanded polystyrene sandwich panels.
With the latter option, the panels are cut to size in place, taking into account the geometry of each slope. A U-shaped plastic profile is screwed to the frame close to the slopes, otherwise called the starting one. A panel is inserted into it. The voids are foaming.
Foam is a sealant made of polyurethane foam, which, due to its properties, takes a certain time to fully expand and harden. Typically 1 to 24 hours.
In places where they adjoin the wall, sandwich panels are closed with a decorative profile, most often of an F-shape.
The junctions of the slopes and the frame to the window sill are sealed with sealant.
Who is responsible for window installation?
Installing a PVC profile window and installing a wooden window are not the same thing. Installing windows in a brick house is associated with certain nuances. It is required to have all the necessary tools at hand, including adjusting keys for window fittings, as well as a supply of fasteners and special mounting tapes.
It is equally important to choose the right mounting foam and sealant. As an alternative to the latter, so-called liquid plastic can be used. This is a special adhesive-sealant that hardens very quickly, but also creates a particularly strong sealed seam.
If you are not sure that you can handle the installation yourself, it is better to enlist the help of specialists.
//www.youtube.com/watch?v=qMBqdgWXysU
PVC windows have proven themselves from the best side for a long time. They are multifunctional, reliable and durable. However, these indicators directly depend on how well the installation of the window system was carried out. There are only two ways: mounting windows on plates and unpacking method. With the first method, you do not need to remove the glazing bead and remove the double-glazed window from the frame. The window structure is fastened with anchor plates, which allows you to install the window without any special skills.
Methods for mounting a window structure
Both methods have their own nuances, positive and negative qualities.
Unpacking or fastening through the frame with self-tapping screws
This fastening method is characterized by the fact that the frame must be completely disassembled before installation: the blind and opening doors are removed, and only then the installation is carried out through the profile with self-tapping screws.
The unpacking method is mainly used when installing large-sized windows.
After installing the profile, the system will have to be assembled and adjusted again. This option is used for large windows with an area of 4 square meters for the reliability of fixing such an overall structure.
Leveling plates are installed between the double-glazed window and the profile Here it would be appropriate to mention the straightening plates, which are installed in order to avoid contact between the edge of the double-glazed window and the window profile. Their presence will ensure uniform distribution of the weight of the double-glazed window and ventilation of the rebate space. The plates are made of plastic, the width of the element corresponds to the width of the double-glazed window.
Mounting with plates
When installing PVC windows on plates, there is no need to remove the double-glazed window Installation of windows on plates begins with the acquisition of these same plates. There are models for universal use and made for use with a specific profile system. They are usually supplied with designs of complex shapes. Their peculiarity lies in the fact that they have special "lugs" and can be inserted into existing grooves on the surface of the frame.
Anchor plates with lugs are used with complex window structures Plates without ears are fastened with bolts, and with ears - with self-tapping screws.. Requirements for bolts: 4.5 * 25 and the presence of a drill for metal.
Installation rules
A standard window requires at least five plates. In the central part of the frame, one plate is fixed, and on both sides - two each: one from above and one from below. At the same time, 20 cm should be retreated from the border of the frame.
5 plates are enough to mount a standard-shaped window Installing windows without unpacking involves fixing the frame with anchor plates on the outside of the window opening. In this case, there is no need to remove the glazing bead and double-glazed window. When unpacking, fasteners are provided through the frame with a preliminary analysis of the window system into its constituent elements: sashes, double-glazed windows.
Fastening with plates is appropriate to use on windows of medium and small size, more often these are standard windows of houses and apartments. Large window systems (more than 4 square meters) are mounted on anchor dowels through the frame, since the weight of such a structure is significant and the plates will not withstand it.
Large window systems are installed using anchor dowels With the help of anchor dowels, door frames are also fixed. In professional circles, among the masters of installing metal-plastic structures, this method of installation is considered the most reliable, but it has some disadvantages:
- this type of installation is difficult even for professionals. There is a high risk of damage to the double-glazed window when removed from the frame;
- this type of fixation by one person is often not possible;
- this is a labor-intensive method that takes considerable time and requires the availability of appropriate skills.
When installing windows on dowels, there is a high risk of glass damage If there is a desire to install the window yourself using this method, then you will need to buy dowels 10 * 132 mm. Of the tools, you will need a powerful puncher - this device is professional and expensive equipment that is rarely used on the farm, so it is not advisable to purchase it for the sake of installing one or two windows. You can look for a company that rents out construction equipment, usually hammer drills are the most popular product.
With the installation of a window on the plates, all these problems will not have to be solved. You just have to buy the plates themselves.
Bolt Mounting Difficulties
A few more reasons why you should not get involved with bolting during self-installation, but you should prefer plates. In order to fix the anchor bolt, it will be necessary to drill a hole in the PVC window frame. As a result, depressurization of the double-glazed unit chamber is possible.
As a result of the fact that when drilling, the reinforcement of the system is possible, problems are observed in the future when the window system freezes through.. As a result, there is excessive moisture formation indoors and the appearance of mold on the surface of the slopes.
When fixing a PVC window on the bolts, depressurization of the double-glazed window may occur With a lack of experience, not knowing the properties of the material from which the structure is made, it may turn out that it will stretch if improperly installed. Correcting the geometry of the window frame will be almost impossible.
There are still positive qualities in attaching plastic windows to anchor bolts:
- reliability of fastening of the structure - in order to dismantle it, it will be necessary to perform the reverse order of work that was during installation;
- after fixing the window system, there is no need to perform additional work, as is the case with fixing with mounting foam: time for solidification, leveling, cutting, finishing;
- the structure can be fully exploited immediately after it is installed;
- a similar connection method is reliable and durable, and fastening materials in the form of bolts are commercially available and have an affordable price.
Features of fastening to anchor plates
This method of fastening the window system is as simple as possible and accessible to everyone.
Compared to the unpacking method, the method is considered absolutely safe for the window system, but the only drawback is that some fastening-plate elements will remain visible after installation. However, they can also be properly disguised, hidden under the slopes during their fine finishing.
Inserting a plastic window with plates is easier and safer than bolting There is one more recommendation from experts: if the window has an opening sash, which will be used very often, then the window may fail. This fastening is recommended for moderate opening or fixed windows.
An alternative is the combined method of fastening: the upper part of the structure is mounted on plates, and the lower part is fixed with anchor bolts.
Rules for attaching a window to plates
Self-tapping screws should be used as a fixing element. Glue or foam is not suitable. The use of a percussion mechanism to create holes is only possible for concrete surfaces.
To avoid damaging the window frame with a drill, it must be of sufficient length. Additionally, you can protect the surface of the frame by placing a piece of PVC near the hole to be drilled..
Self-tapping screws are used as a fastener When installing a window in a brick opening with vertical voids, holes for fasteners are formed in the interblock joints. To control the immersion of the self-tapping screw into the body of the frame, it is necessary to use a screwdriver with the appropriate function, which limits the torque.
The process of attaching the window to the plates
First of all, anchor plates are fastened in increments of no more than 1 meter. In order for the frame to maintain a stable position, the fastening elements must be located at a distance of no more than 25 cm relative to the corners of the frame.
The distance from the plates to the corners must be at least 25 cm It is important to remember that the distance from the border of the window structure to the opening must be at least 2 cm.. In the case when this condition is not met, it is necessary to make recesses in the surface of the opening to accommodate the fasteners. To do this, the plates are installed on the frame, then it is installed in the opening.
On the surface of the wall with a pencil or chalk, mark the future location of the fasteners. Then the frame is taken out and a recess is made at the place of the marks with a chisel, into which the plate should enter and fix tightly. This will subsequently effectively mask the plates when finishing the slopes.
At the next stage, a window structure is placed in the opening and its position is leveled using wooden bars prepared in advance. Their thickness should not exceed 3 cm and their installation takes place only horizontally, while vertical alignment occurs, which is controlled by a level.
Vertical alignment is carried out according to the level When the position of the frame is leveled, you can proceed to fixing the plates with dowels 6 * 40 with a concrete base or with self-tapping screws in other cases.
Gaps are filled with foam To avoid distortion of the frame, the plates are fixed in order. First, fix the lower left corner, then the right, exercising control with a level. The top plates are fixed last. At the final stage, the seams are sealed with mounting foam.