For about twenty years now, lining has been actively used as a material necessary for various types of finishing work.
Natural wood is taken as the basis of this material, so absolutely everyone likes it: builders specializing in interior decoration, simple customers, as well as such house owners who are used to doing various work on their own, because they already have experience in laying lining.
This article will talk about how to properly carry out finishing work using lining. But first it should be noted that this material is environmentally friendly.
The lining has a number of positive properties, these are:
- structure made of natural wood with the ability to breathe;
- attractive appearance;
- easy installation method;
- visual alignment of any sutured surface;
- the ability to create a warm and cozy atmosphere that lining can give to absolutely any room. Due to this, such material is popular even during the implementation of the final interior decoration, as well as during sheathing from the outside of a country house, summer house, sauna and bath.
It is worth noting that the tree gives the room a warm atmosphere and a certain aroma, provides environmentally friendly conditions, which allows it to prove itself when finishing work in the sauna and bath, although in such rooms the temperature is high, and air humidity is almost always at the limit.
Such factors do not make it possible to choose other finishing materials, as they are harmful to health.
In the production of lining, a high-tech four-sided machine is usually used, designed directly for wood processing.
Due to the fact that such machines produce products that differ in thickness and profile, and also because of the high quality of processing and the special type of wood, all finished lining is divided into grades, according to the classification common in Europe.
In accordance with quality, usually all manufactured products are divided into:
- Variety Extra it is an absolutely smooth processed board, which is devoid of various kinds of knots and other mechanical damage, and its moisture content does not exceed 8%;
- Grade A or Premium, this is a perfectly planed smooth board, without various kinds of damage, without a blue tint, cracks or chips, but small and healthy knots with a light color are acceptable on it;
- Grade B or Standard, this is wood processing performed at a high level, without chips, cracks and blue, but the presence of light and dark knots is possible;
- Grade C(Economy), here they allow the presence of fallen knots, small chips, as well as cracks, but only not exceeding 0.3 millimeters in size.
It is important to note that the moisture index for any of the listed varieties should not be more than 12% of the total mass, this figure is officially established by GOST.
In addition, the lining is divided into groups, depending on the type of wood used in its production.
For this purpose, pine, spruce, larch, linden, aspen are increasingly being chosen, but oak, maple and other hardwoods are used a little less often.
In the production of lining, pine and spruce wood is popular. This is due to the fact that they have a beautiful and golden texture, durability, susceptibility to various types of processing, as well as their availability. These properties made it possible to produce lining on a mass scale.
A noble material growing in the territory from the Urals to the Far East is larch. True, the creation of a finishing material from such wood cannot be mass-produced, due to difficulties in the production process.
As for linden and aspen, such wood is considered to be specially created for use in many areas of production. If you need to finish a bath or sauna, then it is better to choose lime lining, since other breeds simply cannot serve for a long time in such conditions.
In order to start work on the installation of the lining, you should calculate the total area of \u200b\u200bthe surface to be treated, that is, where it is planned to lay these boards. Then you need to purchase the required number of boards, but it is important that you have at least a 10% margin. Currently, lining is sold in different lengths and you just have to choose the most suitable one, since it is important that there are not too many trimmings.
If you need to finish the living space inside, it is best to choose material from pine or spruce, the thickness of which should not be more than 16 mm, and the width - 110 mm. It is also recommended to check the moisture percentage of the boards, it should not be more than 12, but if the indicator exceeds this number, then cracks will begin to form over time, and the boards will undergo significant changes in shape.
As for the installation process itself, in most cases it does not cause any special problems even for those who are doing this work for the first time.
The next step for preparation is related to the fact that it will be necessary to determine the direction of laying the lining. If the room is small, but with a high ceiling, then it is better to lay it horizontally, it is sewn on long walls in a vertical position, and the material can also be laid in the form of a Christmas tree, although this option is best suited for wall cladding from the outside.
Installation of the crate under the lining
Before installing the crate under the lining, the walls should be carefully leveled. If you need to sheathe the walls in a wooden house, then for this the crowns of the log house, assembled from unrounded logs, are recommended to be cut with an ax and then made smooth, and for this use a planer.
Once all the described steps are completed, then you can begin to mount the crate.
Recently, technology for laying lining in a vertical position has been increasingly used, and for this you will need to perform the following steps:
- The upper bar is installed along the surface of the ceiling, and the lower one - on the opposite side;
- How vertical the bars are, you can find out with the help of a level or plumb line;
- In the corners formed between the bars, you need to pull the threads in a vertical position, and then after 1.5 meters you should add the same ones;
- It is better to fix the bars on the wall through a distance of 100 cm using a self-tapping screw. If the walls have uneven places, then the entire crate should be made even thanks to the lining under the bars, but this should only be done in those places where there are self-tapping screws.
To create a crate, it is better to give preference to bars of 50 × 40 mm, which must be processed in advance with a special tool, like Senezh. And, if the crate is mounted on walls made of brick or stone, then the bars are fixed with a self-tapping screw, and place a plastic dowel under it. In case of urgent need, you can take a wooden cork instead of plastic dowels.
We lay the lining on the wall
It is best to lay out the lining starting from the corner of the room, and the first board should be mounted carefully, and the correct position can be checked using a level. Then you can attach it to the crate bar.
The board is mounted in such a way that the comb is in the corner, as a result, the groove will remain open and you can later drive nails into it or screw in a screw. It is only necessary to do this so that one installed lining board with its crest covers the place of fastening of the previous element.
Of course, the top and bottom of the board can be attached openly, but the main thing is that it should be near the edge, since in the future you will hide the nail heads under the installed plinth and ceiling cornice.
There are situations when the last board simply does not fit completely into the corner, then you need to cut off the excess part with a jigsaw, and it is recommended to do this along the lining. Also, during the installation, it should be taken into account that in the future the house may shrink or the boards will expand due to a high percentage of humidity, which means that a gap will be required from the upper and lower sides, the size of which should not be more than 20 mm. At the end of the work, it can be covered with skirting boards, both for the ceiling and for the floor.
Decoration of windows and doorways
The most difficult moment in such work is the design of the doorway and window. Often, when the turn comes to the openings during the installation of the lining, the boards usually go beyond it, so everything that is superfluous must be drawn along the slope with a pencil and removed with a jigsaw. At the end of the finish, it is recommended to decorate these slopes with corners made of wood or plastic material.
It is important to note that if you arrange a balcony with a clapboard, then its appearance will become very aesthetic.
Now you can take a closer look at the detailed plan for laying the lining on the ceiling surface. True, the order of work performed, as for the wall, remains the same. The only thing that experts advise is to reduce the distance between the bars to at least 80 cm, as this will strengthen the structure.
In addition, in order to lay the lining on the ceiling, it is often necessary to constantly adjust the boards or buy them of such a length that will be more than necessary, and this, of course, always causes a lot of difficulties.
The next issue is the installation of lining in the bath and sauna, where it is very important to take into account the specificity and manufacturability of the room. It is also important to correctly combine the simplicity and environmental friendliness of the material used.
- First, apply aluminum foil to the crate of the ceiling and walls and secure with staples.
- Then, on the surface of the walls and ceiling, a lining should be laid, made only of aspen or linden wood.
Lining is an excellent versatile material for the final finishing of ceiling surfaces, interior and exterior walls. Such a sheathing is also perfect for finishing door panels in combination with a similar type of platbands. Regardless of the selected objects for cladding, the panels are fixed every time according to the same pattern.
What is particularly impressive is the ease of working with this material. You can easily deal with clapboard lining on your own.
But first, you should always use the tutorial. This can be an instruction for mounting the lining with your own hands.
Using instructions
Detailed instructions are one of the best assistants in the process of learning any business. In construction, the prices of professional teams for work are quite high. Doing something yourself is profitable, first of all, from a financial point of view. Especially when it comes to simple processes. Wood paneling falls into this category.
For better understanding, it is customary to use illustrated tips. In this case, a photo of the installation of the lining is suitable as an additional visual material. And of course, one cannot ignore the numerous video materials that the Internet is so rich in.
It is important, using all the educational materials, to study all the details, to master the technology. Then, being already confident that no problems will arise, you can safely begin work.
Stages of sheathing
Do-it-yourself step-by-step installation of lining with your own hands consists in performing the following steps:
Carry out preparatory work. The lining is prepared for installation. They are impregnated with special compounds, such as antiseptic and flame retardant. For further processing, stain or paint of the desired color is used.
After the paint composition has dried, a crate of wooden slats or timber with a section of 5x5 cm is mounted on the selected area. The fastening step of the frame elements should be 10-20 mm less than the width of the insulation plate. Screws or self-tapping screws are used to fasten the rails.
The position of the rails or bars can be vertical or horizontal. The future arrangement of the skin depends on this.
The variant of the installation position of the lining depends entirely on the desire to visually change the appearance of the room. On this, the initial order of fastening the frame is built.
Vertical cladding increases the height of the room. Do-it-yourself horizontal installation of lining makes the room seem more spacious.
In the cells formed, when using a beam, heat-insulating plates are arranged. Upon completion of the work, the entire working area is covered with a plastic film, fixing it on the bars with thin slats. In the future, they will be the element to which the lining itself will be attached.
The final stage is the finishing with wood panels. The room is getting finished.
The technology for the correct installation of lining on the walls is distributed over several steps and is clearly observed during the entire period of work.
The process goes in the following order:
- wall fastening of panels is carried out from the ceiling to the floor line.
- lining is mounted on wooden bars or slats. The grooves are placed down. For evenness of the panels, a bottom fit is made using a piece of wood board. This method eliminates the formation of gaps between the skin and the floor.
The difference between fasteners and their characteristics
For fixing, fasteners are used. The spikes of subsequent skin elements are inserted into the grooves and fixed with specially selected parts. It can be staples, clamps or ordinary nails and screws. Each of these elements of hard fixation has its own meaning.
Nails hammered into grooves are among the neatest, almost imperceptible type of fastening. Kleimers are characterized as high-quality fixation. For staples, it is necessary to use a mounting gun, since fastening occurs by shooting.
Panel Alignment Reception
The last board of the lining is adjusted in width with a hacksaw. A decorative plinth is laid along the line of its docking with a corner. It is attached to liquid nails. It turns out a very beautiful appearance.
A similar finish with a plinth is carried out along all the lines of interface of the surfaces of the walls with the ceiling, along the wall corners and ledges.
The order of the ceiling sheathing
Do-it-yourself installation of lining on the ceiling is carried out in a manner similar to wall decoration. The difference is only in the initial order of the panels.
The layout and fastening start from the window and lead towards the opposite wall. Thus, the shadows arising between the facing elements are hidden.
Photo of lining installation
The wooden finish of the house makes it more cozy and warm inside and out. However, this can be costly. Therefore, materials that imitate wood are more often used. The wagon does a great job with this. It can be mounted on ceilings, external and external walls of the house and even doors. There is a wide range of this material. The process is so simple to perform that lining the walls with clapboard with your own hands will not cause difficulties.
Classification
There are different types of distillation according to the type of material from which it is made.
Clapboard made of wood
It can safely be called a classic of the genre. There are a huge number of different subspecies of wooden lining, which differ in the type and breed of wood used to make it.
This is an environmentally friendly material that can be chosen for facing any surface. There are other positive qualities, such as environmental friendliness, lightness, ease of installation. However, when choosing a material, it is worth remembering that there are disadvantages:
- the influence of natural factors on the external state (temperature changes and high humidity deform the material), which requires processing with special means;
- the need for meticulous care.
Plastic lining
This option is considered budget. They can decorate the ceiling and walls. Has a beautiful appearance. Mounted without seams. The disadvantages include the fact that such lining is short-lived, can fade and turn yellow, easily collapse, especially in the cold. However, all the shortcomings of the material are offset by its low cost.
Metal lining
It is made from thin sheets of steel and aluminum, which are covered with protective materials. They differ in color and texture (it is possible to select a lining that imitates wood).
Aluminum lining is characterized by a long service life. Most often, it is sheathed with facades of houses.
Steel lining is budgetary, but short-lived. If the protective coating is damaged, then irreversible corrosion will begin, and the thin material will quickly rot.
Table: classification of lining by cross section
| Name | Description |
| Standard | Equipped with a thorn-groove system (the thorn of one board is inserted into the groove of another). The spikes in the lining are slightly shorter than the grooves. This is necessary so that when the tree completely dries out, its deformation does not begin. Standard lining has good sound and heat insulation. When correct, there should be no gaps between the slats. |
| "Calm" | She is also called a "collective farmer", Russian, classic or simple. It differs from the standard view only in the rounding of beveled corners. The high demand for "calm" is due to the high quality lining and neat appearance. |
| This lining has a longer groove, which gives the surface a slightly different look. Production takes place in European countries, Russia and Belarus. | |
| Softline | "Soft line" translated from English - "soft line". The name encodes its main distinguishing feature. If we talk about the appearance, then this is a kind of mix of “calm” and eurolining, where there are rounded bevels and an elongated groove. |
Ceiling rail, block house, floorboard and timber imitation also often refers to subspecies of lining. This is because these materials are manufactured and fastened in the same or similar way.
Photo gallery: different types of material by section
When installing such a lining between the slats, there will never be gaps 
Differences of lining calm from the standard is only in the presence of rounded bevels 
Eurolining is produced in Europe, Russia and Belarus 
Combines the features of eurolining and "calm"
Table: division into classes
| Class | Description |
| A | The material is of good quality, sometimes knots can be seen on the surface that do not fall out. A few resin cracks on the surface or blind cracks are also normal for this class. Suitable for home decoration. |
| V | On a plank 1.5 m long, there can be 4 knots, but no more, resin pockets and blind cracks in a small amount. Not recommended for home decoration. |
| WITH | Low quality material. They often sheathe outbuildings. In such slats, knots can fall out, there are through cracks, the color differs from the standard. |
| Extra | This wagon is perfect. There are no knots or other flaws on the slats. |
Table: material classification by wood species
The lining is made from deciduous and coniferous wood. Each of them has certain characteristics that may be suitable for a particular place of cladding.
| wood species | Description | |
| hardwood tree | Oak | Resistant to rot, mold and mildew. Durable and flexible. The color ranges from light fawn to dark brown. Sanding oak to perfect smoothness is almost impossible. High price. |
| Linden | Very good for residential cladding. It is also suitable for facing the bath, because it emits a pleasant smell, and it does not heat up from high temperatures. It has an aesthetic appearance and low density. Turns yellow over time. | |
| Aspen | It is very easy to handle. In terms of its properties, it is in no way inferior to lining made of linden. Holds its shape very well. Suitable for covering surfaces of housing and baths. In the latter case, when interacting with high temperatures, the aspen does not dry out, and cracks do not appear on it. | |
| Alder | Wood contains a large percentage of tannins. The characteristics are similar to oak, but easier to process. Expensive and rare breed of wood. | |
| Ash | In terms of strength, wood is slightly worse than oak, but visually more aesthetic. Has a rich texture. Easily processed. Expensive. It has a dense and elastic texture. | |
| coniferous wood | Cedar | The noble beauty of the material is quite expensive. It has a pleasant healing aroma. Soft and plastic material, which makes it easy to process. |
| Larch | Has a very high density. Thanks to the gum in the composition, it is moisture resistant and protected from decay. When exposed to high temperatures, it gets very hot. Smells nice. Difficult to process. | |
| Pine | Budget and common cladding option. A healing aroma emanates from the wood of this species. It is easy to handle | |
| Spruce | Its loose and soft structure does not tolerate moisture very well. But this is a great option for cladding the interior walls of residential premises because of the excellent thermal conductivity. It has a pleasant coniferous smell and aesthetic appearance. When processed with special means, the service life is significantly increased. |
Preparation for sheathing the walls of the house
The first stage of facing a log or brick house is the preparation of walls and material:
Stock up on all the necessary tools and materials in advance. You will definitely need a hammer, a building level, a puncher, a screwdriver, a tape measure and a jigsaw.
Which mounting method to choose
Usually the lining is equipped with a tenon-groove system, which allows you to fasten the planks well to each other. However, the material must also be fixed on the crate. This can be done with staples, clamps, screws and nails. The mount can be placed openly or hidden. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the entire structure is well fixed, and the lining is not damaged.
Kleimers
Kleimers will fix the lining with the highest quality. But it is important to choose the right size of nails. It is selected depending on the thickness of the grooves. Often, clamp sets already have nails.
Video: how to fasten the lining with kleimers
Mounting gun with staples
Staples are fired from a pistol into the groove of the board and securely fix the lining to the frame part. But it is very difficult for beginners to do it the first time.
Decorative screws
Qualitatively fastens the boards, while the aesthetic beauty of the material is not lost.
Nails and screws
Both those and others should be fastened diagonally. So, the rail is clamped into the groove of the previous strip of material, and the cap presses it to the base.
Material calculation
An example of calculating materials for a room with dimensions of 5x4x2.5 m.
- length (A) - 5 m;
- width (B) - 4 m;
- height (C) - 2.5 m.
Using these parameters, you can calculate:
- A * C \u003d 5 * 2.5 \u003d 12.5 m 2 (the area of one of the walls);
- 12.5 * 2 \u003d 25 m 2 (the area of \u200b\u200btwo opposite walls);
- A * B \u003d 5 * 4 \u003d 20 m 2 (the area of \u200b\u200bthe second wall);
- 20 * 2 \u003d 40 m 2 (the total area of \u200b\u200bthe other two opposite walls);
- 40+25=65 m 2 (total surface area to be finished).
To find out how much material is needed for such a room, you need to determine the size of one lining plank.
How to clad the walls with your own hands using the horizontal placement of the lining
The work is carried out in several steps:
How to sheathe walls if you place the lining vertically
Wooden facade cladding
When facing a house from a log house, there are some features
If you plan to paint the walls of the facade after cladding, then you can purchase a middle-class lining for finishing. Otherwise, it is better to take a better quality lining, since all the flaws will be visible (even if the surface is varnished).
Perform the work in the following sequence:
The process of cladding the walls of the facade does not differ from the interior decoration.
Windows, protruding corners and skirting boards can be decorated with decorative elements for beauty.
Before facing the clapboard, do not forget to mount a layer of insulation and vapor barrier Material handling after installation
Choose only high-quality processing tools.
You will need:
Ideally, the surface treatment of the facing material should be done before its installation.
Perform the work in the following sequence:
- Clean the surface of the wood from dirt, dust and fungus with a steel or hair brush, and then with fine-grained sandpaper.
- Treat the planks with an antiseptic and primer. These funds can be found 2 in 1.
- Paint or varnish the surface. But before proceeding to this stage of work, wait until the previous layer dries well.
You can easily finish the walls of your house both outside and inside, using lining for this. There are practically no difficulties. The main thing is not to be afraid and boldly follow the instructions.
Lining is a popular finishing material, which is equivalent profiles with spikes and special grooves for strong fastening. It is made of wood or plastic, and has a flat surface.
Recently, lining has become widespread, because with its help you can sheathe almost any surface, achieving perfect smoothness. In addition, the material has a lot of other significant advantages:
- Ease of installation. Even a person who does not have any building experience can cope with the installation of this material.
- Low price. Compared to many other materials, it is inexpensive.
- Environmental friendliness. Wooden lining is an environmentally friendly material that is made from wood with high decorative performance. Throughout the entire period of operation, it retains the properties that are inherent in the tree.
- Natural beauty, pleasant smell.
- Good performance.
- Large selection of colors and shapes. You can pick up a lining for any room, whether it is a living room or a barn.
- With this facing material, you can control the humidity inside the room.
Preparation for the installation of lining
Before starting the installation of the lining, preparatory work should be carried out, which relate not only to the preparation of the walls, but also to the material itself. Before use, the lining must be sanded and carefully checked for any defects. After that, the lamellas are necessarily treated with an antiseptic and a primer, which will protect the material from decay and make it less fire hazardous.
You need to process all sides of the material, including grooves. If the lining is made of resinous rocks, then it may be necessary to carry out deresining. To do this, apply acetone to the places of secretions, and then wipe the surface.
If critical defects were found on some lamellas, then they should be put aside. In case of minor defects, such as a loose knot, a small crack or a pothole, the damaged areas are treated with putty. It is very important that the lining before installation "gain temperature" of the room in which it will be attached. To do this, for some time you need to put it in this very room. If it will be used for outdoor work, then nothing needs to be done.
In addition to processing the material itself, you need to prepare the surface on which it will be attached. Lining does not provide for preliminary alignment of the walls with putty or plaster. It is only necessary to make and install a simple frame structure, to which the lamellas will be attached. To create such a design, you can use ordinary rectangular bars 20 × 40 millimeters or 15 × 30 millimeters, depending on the curvature of the walls. It is important to remember that when mounting the lining horizontally, the battens of the crate must be mounted vertically. And when vertical - horizontally.
First, the crate is mounted around the perimeter of the surface and in the corners. In this case, there should be two slats for each corner. After that, installation is carried out around doors and windows, if they are on the surface that is sheathed. And after all this, intermediate rails are attached. It is extremely important to check all rails with a plumb and level. The more accurately and evenly the crate is set, the easier and faster the installation of the lining will be. If you do not keep track of the level, then at subsequent stages of work this can lead to significant problems.
How and with what to fix the lining
Before proceeding directly to the installation of the lining, it is necessary to install the insulation and waterproofing, as well as choose the method of fixing the material. You can attach the lamellas to the ceiling, wall and crate. What exactly to fasten depends, first of all, on the customer himself and his preferences. There are several possible options:
- Nails. Nails firmly and securely fix the lining to the crate. But, if eurolining can be nailed strictly perpendicular, then it is recommended to hammer the usual one only at an angle, otherwise the material may crack. In this case, the length of the nail should be at least twice the thickness of the lamella. Fastening with nails is recommended to be used if a used lining is used.
- Self-tapping screws. Basically, self-tapping screws are used for through fastening the lining to the crate. They are rarely used for secret fastening. Self-tapping screws are best suited for fastening in the event that the room is always a high level of humidity.
- Kleimers. It is necessary to use kleimers if in the future it is planned to carefully disassemble the lamellas without damaging them. They are also used for secret fastening, making the mounted lining more aesthetic and neat.
- Staples. This method of fastening requires a special construction stapler (pistol) that can penetrate thick wood. In addition, not all types of wood can be pierced with this tool. But using staples has its advantages. With their help, installation can be done very quickly.
- Combined method. This method of fastening involves the use of clamps or nails and self-tapping screws to fasten the lamellas from below and above.
Which method of fastening to choose depends both on certain factors and on the preferences of the customer himself.
Horizontal installation of lining: instructions
Horizontal installation of lining is the simplest. Finishing with clapboard horizontally allows you to hide all the flaws on the surface of the walls. This type of fastening is used mainly for the exterior decoration of the building, while it is recommended to fasten the lining with grooves down so that water does not flow into them, and over time the walls do not begin to swell at the junction of the lamellas.
Installation should start from the corner. In this case, special attention should be paid to the first lamella, because it will set the main direction of work. The more evenly the first board is fixed, the easier it will be to continue the installation process. The first lamella is attached only at one end, after which the second side is set strictly horizontally using a level. Only when the board is level, you can fix it.
In order for the next board to enter the groove, you will have to make a little effort. As a rule, a rubber mallet is used for this. If it is not there, then you can use the so-called padding (trimming of the lining). It is through the lining, so as not to damage the front side of the material, that you should carefully strike.
It rarely happens that the width of all the lamellas perfectly matches the height of the wall. Most often, you have to trim the last board along the entire length, and you need to do this very carefully, even if the edges are covered with decorative elements. To make the wall look beautiful and aesthetically pleasing, it is better to use self-tapping screws to fasten the extreme lamellas, on which you can then put on wooden plugs, or special finishing nails without a hat.
Vertical installation of lining: instructions
Vertical lining with clapboard is the most common method of fastening. First of all, vertical mounting helps to make the ceilings in the room visually higher. Also, with this method of fastening, the grooves are reliably protected from water flowing into them, which, in turn, has a positive effect on the life of the material.
First you need to fix the topmost board. Just as with horizontal fastening, it is very important to correctly set the first lamella. However, in this case, we are interested in its vertical. Therefore, at first only one edge of the board is attached, then the correct level is set, and after that the next lamella is mounted. This avoids distortion. The rest of the installation is carried out in the same way as with the horizontal mounting method.
There are other ways of fastening: herringbone, diagonally, combined. But they are quite complex, so it will be extremely difficult for a person who does not have construction experience to perform such an installation.
You should be aware that not all lining allows you to choose the installation method. There are lamellas that are mounted strictly horizontally. Therefore, before buying a lining, it is better to consult and find out if it is attached in any way or in some specific way.
Mounting lining on the ceiling
To mount the lining on the ceiling, first, of course, you need to make a frame. It can be wooden or made from a metal profile. To mount the frame, you need to find the lowest point on the ceiling and measure down from it by 5-7 centimeters. After that, from this point, using the water level, beat off all the corners of the room. Next, draw a contour along these points, along which the frame will be set.
When the frame is made, then you can proceed with the installation of the lining. To do this, you need to cut strips of the right size. They should be about 5 millimeters less than the length of the room, this is necessary in order to leave a small gap between the boards and the wall. This will help protect the ceiling from the unpleasant effects of thermal expansion. If the walls are not perfectly parallel, then it is better to cut the lamellas in fact, because at different ends of the room their length may differ slightly.
In general, the installation of lining on the ceiling is no different from wall mounting. The only thing is that it will be quite difficult to deal with it yourself, since it is inconvenient for one to set the board at the right angle, while holding it and fastening it. Most likely, everything will not be possible without an assistant.
The cost of mounting the lining
The cost of lining depends, first of all, on the material itself (plastic or wood, type of wood, workmanship). To date, the price per square meter starts from 3-4 dollars and reaches 25-30 dollars. In addition, do not forget that you will have to buy not only the lining itself, but also bars for battens, skirting boards, decorative elements and various consumables.
If we talk about the work itself, then a good construction company will make the simplest installation of lining on straight walls for $ 3-4 per square meter, excluding the installation of skirting boards, insulation, antiseptics and other additional work. However, installation is not something complicated, so many people prefer to do it themselves, saving a lot of money. In general, lining is rightfully considered one of the best finishing materials in terms of price / quality ratio.
Features of mounting lining
The main feature of do-it-yourself lining installation is the correct placement of the first board. If it is not set perfectly evenly, then all subsequent lamellas will be installed crookedly, and in the future this will result in big problems. In order for beginners to insure themselves against such troubles, it is recommended to fasten the lining with kleimers. In which case, they can be easily removed, dismantled, rearranged lamellas and re-fix them.
Due to the numerous advantages of lining, this material occupies one of the leading places among other finishing building materials. Clapboard can give any room a decorative look and bring comfort and warmth, so the material is actively used for cladding walls, ceilings, saunas and other rooms.
A variety of types of lining wood allows you to always achieve the desired result in the interior design of the interior. Moreover, laying the lining allows you to significantly save the budget due to the fact that it does not require preliminary work on finishing ceilings and walls.
Laying lining, like any other material, of course, involves following a clear sequence of actions and knowing some of the nuances of work. And one of these nuances is the correct selection of lining for specific operating conditions. It is also important to maintain a certain level of humidity and temperature during storage. Lining should be protected from sudden changes in temperature and exposure to direct sunlight.
Before laying the lining with your own hands, it needs to be acclimatized, for which, after removing the material from the package, it is left for 48 hours in the room where the laying is planned. These measures will avoid distortion of the material after installation work.
It is best to lay the lining at a humidity of up to 60% and a temperature of + 5 ° C. A prerequisite for installation is to maintain small gaps (1-3 mm) during installation, since the tree can change its size with changes in humidity and temperature.
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Preparation for laying lining
As a rule, before laying the lining, preparatory work is carried out for the installation of the crate. The only exceptions are those cases where the walls are a wooden base with a perfectly flat surface.
The construction of the crate consists of wooden bars, which are nailed to the walls along the upper and lower edges. The distance between the bars usually varies between 0.5-0.8 m. When irregularities in the walls are detected during the installation of the crate, special wedges are used, which are placed under the bars in the right places until a single mounting plane of the crate is reached.
When installing the crate, vertical, horizontal, diagonal fastening of the rails is allowed, they are also fastened with a herringbone. Fastening is carried out in a perpendicular direction with respect to the lining. That is, if a horizontal installation of the lining is planned, then the laths of the crate should be fixed in a vertical position, and vice versa, when the lining is laid vertically, the laths of the crate are mounted horizontally. These measures make it possible to ensure the strength of the crate-lining structure, its rigidity and to avoid the formation of panel deflections during installation.
When laying the lining, they are guided by a simple rule: if it is necessary to visually increase the width of the room, the material is mounted horizontally, and the disproportionately wide room is narrowed by mounting the lining in the vertical direction. To give the room a special decorative effect, it is better to put the lining in a herringbone or diagonally. In the second case, one should take into account the fact that this installation method is much more complicated and costly, so the material is purchased with a margin.
The ceiling frame is usually made not from individual slats, but from a whole array of wide boards. This design is less springy, it is more durable, which ensures the quality of installation and durability of the cladding.
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Wall insulation
Having finished with the crate, proceed to the next important step - laying the insulation. It would be very appropriate to lay a layer of insulation in the cavities between the slats. When planning the interior lining of a room with a clapboard, forced ventilation is mandatory, without which condensation can form during temperature changes and, as a result, mold. The insulation layer is covered with a waterproof film. Only after that it is advisable to carry out the installation of the lining.
To date, there are many options for heaters. But experts recommend paying special attention to sheets from URSA, Rockwool or their analogues.
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Methods and sequence of fastening the lining
Having completed all the preparatory work, proceed directly to the process of fastening the lining. The required amount of material of the required size is cut and, depending on the goals, fastening is carried out using one of the following methods.
Work is carried out using a level or plumb
Method 1 - fastening with self-tapping screws. For work you will need:
- drill;
- screwdriver;
- wood screws (about 30 mm).
This method is optimal when fastening lining, which is laid in a horizontal direction.
Installation starts from the floor or from the ceiling from the surface that visually looks the most even.
At the first stage, holes for self-tapping screws are drilled from the side of the spike. For the most convenient insertion of a self-tapping screw with a screwdriver, it is enough to drill holes of 10 mm.
Then the screwed screw is covered with a dowel, and its protruding part is cut off and ground. It is best to use 30 mm self-tapping screws.
Method 2 - hidden fastening with staples. For work use:
- staples;
- stapler.
The method of blind fastening with staples is based on fixing the material with staples, which are driven in by means of a stapler at an angle of 45 °.
The main condition for this method is the installation of lining in the direction from the ceiling to the floor.
Staples driven in this way do not prevent the introduction of each subsequent spike of the boards into the groove.
Method 3 - hidden fastening with nails. When working are used:
- galvanized nails;
- doboynik.
Fastening the lining in this way is carried out similarly to the previous method, only here the brackets are replaced with galvanized nails. The head of the nail is completely driven into the tree, for which a doboy is used. This is a prerequisite for a successful result, otherwise the introduction of the next board will become very problematic.
Method 4 - use a dowel for secret fastening. Are used:
- self-tapping screws or paper clips with a stapler;
- dowel.
With this method of fastening, the lining panels begin to fit from below. The panels are fastened with self-tapping screws in such a way that the dowel caps are closed. The next row of panels is also fastened by means of self-tapping screws to the stud until the same level of the surface of the stud and head plane is reached. This solution ensures that the next panel can be mounted without any problems.
Some experts replace self-tapping screws with paper clips, which are fixed with a stapler. In this case, the process of fastening the last board is identical to fastening the first. All protruding elements of the dowels are eventually cut off.
Method 5 - fastening the lining on the kleimers. The work uses:
- kleimers;
- self-tapping screws;
- dowel.
It is immediately worth noting that this method of fastening is optimal when installing a thin eurolining.
According to this method, the first board is fastened with self-tapping screws, the heads of which are masked with a dowel. Cleimers are mounted to the rear surface of the panel spikes. Then the panels with fixed clamps are screwed to the crate using self-tapping screws. The fastening of the last board is carried out identically to the first - by means of self-tapping screws, as a result, the caps are closed with a dowel.
All of the above methods are most common and appropriate when using the horizontal method of laying panels and placing them with spikes up.
With vertical laying, the same technique is generally used, the only difference is that the first panel is laid from the corner of the room.
At the final stage of installation work, the lining surface is protected with stains, after which it is varnished. The final touch in the work is the installation of the baseboard, which is usually pre-painted.
If the installation of the lining is carried out in a room with high humidity, then in addition to applying the stain, the surface of the material is impregnated with bioprotective agents, such as Sadolin, Caparol, Rogneda, etc., which are sold in sufficient quantities on the market.