Huge marketing budgets for the promotion of Rockwool (Rockwool), URSA (Ursa), Isover (Isover, Isover), Tehnonikol (Technonikol), Penoplex (Penopex, Penoplex), Knauf (Knauf), Isoroc (Isorok, Izorok) , Izolon), Energoflex (Energoflex) very often interfere with making the right decision. It's no secret that many reviews on forums and blogs appear precisely thanks to marketers. It is profitable for representatives of companies to sell their own product, they spend a lot of effort and money on this, so many thermal insulation materials remain in the shadows. But among the heaters that are not promoted with the help of advertising materials, there are real pearls. You can learn about them from rare materials such as video channel of Sergey Polupanov from Tomsk.
My notes on modern insulation based on Polupanov's video.
Sawdust
They shrink, they need to be poured (if you plan sawdust as insulation on the roof). They have no refractory properties, so sawdust and ash used to be interfered with, and on top they made a castle of sand or clay, which completely block the spread of fire.
Ecowool
Cellulose insulation: paper, including newsprint. The cardboard is added, but not more than 10%. Boron salts are added for low flammability.
If you remove the source of the flame, it will smolder for 5-6 hours. After a fire, you need to remove a piece of the wall, because smolders well.
Manufacturers save raw materials, more air is used.
It is better to lay it only by hand, only a good seal. Shows how to avoid cold bridges. If you blow out, then the shrinkage will be even greater.
If cardboard is added instead of paper, then the color is more brownish. In this case, the weight increases, and they are sold by kilograms. Thermal properties are significantly reduced in this case.
Ecowool has ecological properties, if, of course, we close our eyes to the boron content (somewhere around 15 percent or something), etc.
Appeared in Europe as a result of recycling. Therefore, it is not worth pinning hopes on it for economic feasibility.
Mineral wool insulation (mineral, basalt wool)
They serve only 10-15 years, after which they are damp, they need to be changed. Under ideal conditions, by factory standards, the service life is 25-35 years.
99% of houses are now insulated with mineral wool insulation, such as TechnoNIKOL P75. A reinforced concrete frame is built, then filled with foam blocks or Sibitov blocks, for example. Then outside 20 cm of mineral wool (basalt, stone, ...) Then everything is tightened with a windscreen, and then some kind of ceramic tile.
In 15 years, every owner of such a house will pay extra for heat loss in such a house. Imagine removing tiles and replacing insulation in a 17-storey building. The rise in heating costs is colossal. In 15 years, heating costs will be colossal. It turns out that the developer is selling a house in which substandard materials are deliberately used, because of which they will have to spend money in the future.
The manufacturer recommends using wind and vapor protection. porous and fibrous material tends to accumulate liquid in its structure, therefore it must be protected. Our house is humid, plus the air rushes from the high pressure area to the low pressure area. Thus, the air tries to break through from the house to the street, capturing it into the water in a vaporous state. At the same time, the air tries to break through the walls and ceiling. It is unlikely that it will pass through the floors, there may be enough moisture there, especially if the underground space is poorly ventilated. Therefore, to protect against steam, everything is covered with film. At the same time, they do not talk about the service life of small holes in the film. And after 10 years, these holes can become clogged with small fibers of mineral wool, which will begin to crumble. The fibers are bonded with formaldehyde and other resins. The resin breaks down over time, the fibers delaminate. Outside, a windscreen is used to prevent the fibers from loosening and weathering. When the cotton wool is moistened by 10-15%, the thermal properties are lost by 30%. When small holes in the film are clogged, you get a regular stretched plastic film that prevents steam from escaping, steam accumulates, additional ventilation is required. The windscreen is on the outside and therefore subject to freeze / thaw cycles. How long she will live is unknown.
Ordinary plastic film in greenhouses collapses due to temperature changes (closer to autumn, when freezing temperatures begin). Therefore, we can lose the windproof structure before the insulation loses its properties. Plus, the vapor barrier is installed incorrectly.
Does not have amortization properties. If you try to shove 60 cm of cotton into 58 cm, then it will bend.
This type of insulation has too many disadvantages.
Mineral (basalt) wool is obtained from waste slag production, as well as cullet. There are plenty of raw materials, so these types of insulation are widespread.
Mineral wool was forbidden to be produced in Europe, since the fibers enter the lungs, remain there, stick with needles and are not excreted. We made a chemical additive that allows you to dissolve mineral wool particles in your lungs for 40 days. And if you live permanently in such a house? You will receive any infection in the lungs, which can lead to illness, plus you will itch. Even if you cover it with a film on both sides, this infection will still penetrate. This happens through the vents. Plus, if the house is frame or wooden, then when the door slams, a vacuum arises.
In Europe, a standard has been adopted that fibers must completely degrade in 40 days.
Refractory properties of basalt wool - it burns out 20 cm in 17 minutes (there is a video of the refractory properties of heaters on the Polupanov channel). The cotton wool burns out, an influx of oxygen comes, the building starts to burn even more.
From a density of 75 kg / m3, basalt fiber or glass fiber starts to work as insulation. Basalt fiber is more efficient. There are basalt fibers, fiberglass and combinations. The thinner and longer the fibers, the less prickly and more pleasant to use the material, plus a more coherent structure is obtained.
At 17-20 kg / m3, convection begins in the wool layer.
Normal basalt fiber may be more profitable to find from suppliers rather than building materials stores.
The melting point of basalt is 1500 degrees. Small thread production technology is not cheap.
Fiberglass is cheaper because glass melts at 1200 degrees.
The segment with a larger and more prickly fiber is now actively decreasing.
Basalt fiber has a very large surface area, especially the super thin fiber. Moisture should not linger there, otherwise it begins to live there, the material begins to thicken, and water conducts heat well. Aerated concrete filled with water conducts heat very well.
The economic feasibility of insulation must be calculated. You must understand how much money you will spend and how much it will save you.
If you invest 300 thousand in mineral wool, then, after standing for 25 years, it will cost you 12 thousand a year. Is it worth it? It may be better to use another option, including worse insulation.
Of course, foam glass will last for a hundred years. Or you can insulate 60 cm of straw.
Heat transfer:
- thermal conductivity (heat is transferred from hot to cold),
- convection,
- radiation.
If there are large double-glazed windows or large walls with thermal transparency for infrared radiation, then we will lose heat. Competently located vapor barrier (foil, at a distance) and other methods help reflect heat inward.
Thermal insulation materials greatly reduce convective heat transfer.
Thermal insulation material should be of low thermal conductivity.
Mineral wool absorbs water very well, while thermal conductivity is greatly impaired.
The fibers are fragile anyway. Hold it in your hands, you may have a cough after working with it.
Basalt wool TechnoNIKOL P-75 has a density of 50 kg / m3 (not 75), P-125 - 80 kg / m3 (not 125). These materials were of a fairly high quality. Later, Technonikol released a cheaper analogue with less basalt and lower density. Gradually, cheaper material began to replace better and more expensive material. As a result, the company decided to curtail the production of more expensive and high-quality insulation.
Be sure to pay attention to the density of the heat-insulating material indicated in the passport!
Sausage-type materials sold in rolls packed in plastic wrap often have a density of no more than 15 kg / m3. As you unwind the roll, it gains height. In less dense mineral wool, the vacuum between the fibers is greater, so air, due to convection, moves more easily from cold to warm, transferring heat.
It is not necessary to catch convective currents. If you open a window or door, then cold air will quickly make its way into the room. But if the walls are made of heat-absorbing material. Then it stores heat during heating; if you close the vents and doors after airing, then the heat-absorbing material will give off heat to the air, heating the room. Heat-consuming materials are heavy.
Moss
Available. Eco-friendly. Lives longer than the timber on which the moss is laid. 7 magic antiseptics, different in structure (of which you can make dressings for wounds, pulling out pus dressings ...) No bikarasiki start in it. In dry material, no one gets started. If you put wet moss, it will still dry quickly, even in a confined space. Moss is used as a material for storing vegetables. Has amortization properties. It is pleasant to work with the material. Disadvantage: Does not have refractory properties. From the inside, ordinary plaster on the shingles is required, and from the outside it can be sheathed with flat slate. You don't have to worry about asbestos. Russian chrysotile asbestos does not have such a needle-like structure as foreign amphibole asbestos.
Peat
Peatlands have spontaneous combustion properties. Peat is mixed with cement and aluminum chips. It turns out a semblance of a porous sibite. Such a thermal screed was previously used in many villages on ceilings and seemingly on the floor. The 100-year-old building was being dismantled. The floor beams were not damaged at all. Since there is no oxygen in peat, it perfectly retains various materials (in fact, it mummifies). If you mix it with some kind of composition or take vermiculite, which has good refractory properties and works well with a liquid, then you can conduct an experiment how it all will stand.
Vermiculite and sawdust will definitely work optimally: the fire does not spread (promises to carry out a blowtorch test), the price is halved.
A fire in the roof can appear as a result of entering from a chimney. Especially if, as recently, two galvanized pipes with mineral wool inside are used. Galvanizing burns out quickly enough, it is designed for not very frequent use. When it burns out, the mineral wool, and then the outer cladding, also burns and burns out. A spark can enter the under-roof space. A lot of fires are happening because of modern sandwiches.
Good sandwich: Take a good thick-walled pipe (for example, 150 mm), outside the casing is made of galvanized metal. The pipe is placed at the base of the boiler. A space of 5 mm is filled with a mixture of vermiculite and liquid glass, carefully compacted. Even if the pipe burns out, the vermiculite will work as guides.
Classic foam, foam with additives, extruded polystyrene foam, penoplex (penoplex), technoplex.
(EPS, EPS, XPS), if I am not mistaken, is produced in the same way, only it is obtained using extrusion (the material is squeezed out through a nozzle), a composite material of high density is obtained. There are almost no voids between the cells.
When the insulation boom began, 90% of houses in Europe were insulated. Konrad Fischer from Germany says that after warming with vapor-tight insulation, such as polystyrene, polystyrene foam (this will be cheaper than lathing for mineral wool, and then external finishing). Therefore, the brickwork is insulated and simply bricked up with 5-10 cm of foam. In terms of calculations, the building's energy efficiency is improving quite well. At the same time, they often do not pay attention to the vapor transparency of the insulation.
Steam appears during breathing, evaporation from the body, bathing, cooking, ... Therefore, high humidity appears in the apartment. With poor or no ventilation, we get a damp space, mold and mildew may appear.
When using vapor-opaque insulation on top of standard houses using 1-2 cm of plaster outside, you get a lock for the liquid in the building. The liquid moves outward, rests against the foam. The polystyrene is glued to the mounting foam so that there are no air gaps, plus it is fixed with mounting anchors. After 3-4 years, homeowners in most cases received that such an amount of liquid had accumulated that the inside of the plaster began to become moldy. Fungi and mold are always present, but they actively multiply due to the presence of moisture. As a result, the wallpaper inside began to fall off, since the moisture simply had nowhere to go. Solution: Remove the insulation and finishing material, and then dry the building contour with infrared heaters, using convection, ... When the walls inside the house are heated, the liquid begins to be displaced, and since there is no obstacle outside, it actively evaporates, fungi and mold disappear. There is no point in using chemicals instead of this method.
Konrad Fischer studied the materials well. He is restoring museums, the structure of buildings, ...
There are no refractory properties in foams. Flame retardants are added to them so that the flame does not spread.
Penoplex (penoplex), extruded polystyrene foam (extruded polystyrene foam, EPS, EPS, XPS) have refractory properties K1, K4, but it also melts over 60-80 degrees, loses its structure and begins to collapse. The durability of flame retardants is also questionable. Extruded polystyrene foam (but not foam) can and is recommended to insulate only foundations, because the material has closed pores and does not absorb liquid. When insulating a blind area or foundation, the estimated service life is 50 years. The compression coefficient is good, it retains its strength during heaving or movement of soils. It is not recommended to insulate the walls with polystyrene and expanded polystyrene, since it is flammable, non-vapor transparent. Rodents like to start in the foam, dig holes in it. Previously, the foam was glued with formaldehyde resins, therefore, it exudes formaldehyde throughout its operation. Now they are supposedly glued together with the help of high temperature steam (there is such an advertisement).
The quality and evenness of the sheets of Technoplex (extruded polystyrene foam) is much better than that of Penoplex. Penoplex is unsuccessful enough for the assembly of frame walls and for other planes. Technoplex for excluding cold bridges, insulation of non-residential (!) Premises is much better than penoplex.
Vermiculite
Raw materials began to be mined in the 60s
Different composition, different impurities
It is often idle in Russia, because the equipment is old
Raw materials from Uzbekistan have unique properties
Made from rock mica when heated. When heated, it expands due to the presence of liquid, therefore, if you look closely, it turns out in the form of an accordion. The material increases in height from 7 to 10 times. Produced at temperature without binders. The temperature of destruction is about 1300 degrees, while it turns into a brittle glassy structure, it can be compressed, and its structural properties are lost. But at the same time it does not ignite, does not support combustion. Rodents do not like him, they do not start. This material absorbs the smell well, so rodents cannot leave a trace. The material is loose, so it is difficult for a rodent to stay on the surface. Vermiculite, poured into the holes of rodents, leads to their flight. Birds do not take this material away. They prefer fibrous materials for construction. The material is dry, so pathogens (like in wood) do not start in it. If the wood borders on vermiculite, then it is protected from the occurrence of mold-like lesions. Vermiculite works like a preservative. If excess moisture appears, then the material picks it up. There was a case that part of the roof tore off, flooded with water in the spring. The vermiculite absorbed the liquid. After the restoration of the roof, it was completely dry at a thickness of 20 cm.
In addition to overlapping, it can be poured into the floor or frame structures. If the plywood is in the frame, then the vermiculite is simply filled up and compacted. When mixed with small chips 1: 1 can be mixed directly on the building (hand mixer, drill, hammer drill) in the floor. Stir until smooth.
Wood shavings and sawdust can burn and absorb moisture. But vermiculite absorbs moisture, evens out the humidity regime and after about a month the sawdust / shavings will become dry. There will be no debate. Fungi and mold may appear. Sawdust has good thermal insulation properties (0.08), vermiculite (0.05-0.06).
Vermiculite does not lose its thermal properties when moistened by 15%.
Refractory properties Polupanov promises to check with a blowtorch.
In an agricultural environment, vermiculite can also be used. When adding 2-4 handfuls to a hole with potatoes (consumption 2-4 bags / 100-200 liters per 2.5 hundred parts). This mineral works with liquid. It works like a fertilizer if it is poured into a solution with a liquid with potassium permanganate or other nutrient liquid. Vermiculite will transfer the chemical component in micro doses, so the plants will not get a chemical burn. When exposed to rain, vermiculite retains moisture near the tuber. In a drought, there is enough water. If there is a lot of rain, then on the contrary, it absorbs excess moisture into itself, giving the potatoes as much as needed.
For other plants (flowers, ...), special soils are made. Almost all store-bought flower primers use vermiculite. Previously, expanded clay was used.
In animal husbandry, vermiculite is added to the feed. For example, cows that have a large mucus. Vermiculite, as an absorbent, cleans the intestinal tract of the cow, she is less susceptible to disease.
The scented bags of vermiculite can keep them for a long time.
Warm plaster has pores in its structure. Vermiculite performs this function. Now he will give it for examination and see what is better than 30%, 40%, ... for external and internal use. A certain result will be obtained in terms of thermal conductivity, in stretching and fragility, in elasticity.
A high-quality wooden house in Siberia should be at least 20-25 cm thick. Thermal conductivity characteristics will be minimal, but tolerable. From the inside, the house is plastered over the shingles, of course, when it shrinks. This gives a protective moisture-leveling layer of about 3 cm. Then ... then the finishing plaster, then the wallpaper. Such a layer of plaster with the correct operating mode of the house (settling in a year and a half after shrinkage, and not immediately), with the correct installation of window blocks (video about special shrink boxes to avoid freezing on the Polupanov channel).
Vermiculite is used in warm plaster. There are ready-made mixtures. You can use classic coarse-grained ready-made mixtures with a sandy composition, to which vermiculite is added. When plastering, small pores are formed. The thermal conductivity is reduced. Compared to ordinary plaster, such a 2 cm plaster can replace 5-10 cm in thermal conductivity. Such a log house provides minimal insulation plus a moisture stabilizer. Such plaster can give and take on moisture. Air with steam passes through it, moisture is removed to the outside. The result is a vapor-transparent construction.
Sewing it up with drywall instead creates an air gap between the wall and the drywall. This is a reason for rodents to get there. The main body of the wall does not warm up, since inside the house mainly convective heating is used, not infrared. The air heats up the structure very slowly. The wall will not warm up behind a layer of air gap and drywall. Consequently, the wall will freeze through more outside. Frost will accumulate, water will freeze. Water expands when it freezes, the timber cracks even more. The structure of the house is moving. Therefore, the use of gypsum structures on external walls is not recommended.
The walls need to be warmed up not only in the places where window openings are installed, but also with the contour of warm pipes. Warming up will be not only due to convection, but also infrared radiation.
The stretch ceiling is quickly done. But it is acceptable in apartments, and I would not recommend it in private houses. An air gap is formed. On ceilings, backfill from 20 cm plays the role of a heat-intensive base to stabilize heat, it accumulates heat. This pad cannot be cut off from the thermal circuit.
Basically, all heaters work to protect convective flows.
Similarly to warm plaster, warm floors with vermiculite are poured. Vermiculite is poured into the mixer, everything is mixed, then the screed is poured with a warm solution, aligned with the beacons. Canadians and Americans mainly use warm mortars in frame housing. Not concrete is poured, but a lighter mortar.
Porous ceramic blocks are recommended for use only on a warm solution. Such a solution has less thermal conductivity. Outside and inside, you can also make plaster with vermiculite. To avoid heat breakdowns, it is leveled with a layer of plaster.
It is an environmentally friendly material. During operation, inert gases, resins are not exuded.
Large foam balls (2-5 mm) form large pores, while rather heterogeneous. Vermiculite has a rather fine structure, these pores are tied with an array of plaster or screed. The surface is more uniform. Such plasters are more fireproof than classic ones.
Drywall 2cm layer has some kind of refractory properties, but you need to put it in several layers (and not one layer), with an overlap. Plaster with vermiculite behaves better. At the same time, fire resistance is relevant in wooden houses.
Vermiculite is better than many other heaters in terms of thermal conductivity. Foam glass has a slightly worse coefficient. In mineral wool, it is slightly less (with a density of about 100 kg / m3). Vermiculite under normal conditions gains about 10% moisture during long-term storage, if water is not poured onto it. If you pour water on vermiculite, then it will take 400% by weight, so it is used as a sorbent. Moistening from the air, it takes only 10%, but the coefficient of thermal conductivity practically does not change!
The best bulk density is about 75 kg / m3.
It is very convenient to work with vermiculite, it is easily filled up. It doesn't fly. It is convenient to use it in ceilings.
We tried to chew, but we're alive. But they wouldn't dare to eat the min. Cotton wool.
Finding alternatives to vermiculite is difficult. Small granular foam glass is certainly very interesting. It is not afraid of moisture, it does not burn in water. But if it is for sale, it is expensive. There are a lot of plans in the foam glass industry, but so far there is no real progress.
When foam glass appears, vermiculite can be used in agriculture.
Vermiculite is half the price of even good density mineral wool.
Laying vermiculite: In mats, loose, in bags. The latter option helps when you need to firmly fix the insulation in place (using an electric stapler, self-tapping screws, ...). The material for the pouches is the same as used in greenhouses; it is vapor-transparent.
Perlite (and comparison with vermiculite)
Perlite is a fine expanded glass. Density - 50-55 kg / m3. There are also varieties of 60-100 kg / m3. At the same density, the thermal conductivity of vermiculite is slightly better than that of pearlite.
He left both vermiculite and perlite above the water surface. A moldy film formed on the perlite after 8 months. Perhaps there were some prerequisites.
Vermiculite is less dusty than perlite. If it is still possible to fill the walls with vermiculite, then I would not fall asleep perlite. Perlite will shake and slip over time. Vermiculite in a pressed down stress state retains its shape.
Expanded clay (and comparison with vermiculite)
Expanded clay, unfortunately, is heavy. Thermal conductivity is three times higher, granules are large. Air moves between the granules. Therefore, a much larger layer would have to be poured. Although, it would seem, a cube of expanded clay is cheaper than a cube of vermiculite.
Heat capacity modern materials are often overlooked. Lightweight materials are used, including fibrous materials. In this case, protection occurs only from convective heat fluxes. The air is immobilized, so there is less heat loss. If you insulate with a light material like foam, then there will be no temperature stabilizing properties. The house will not be able to store heat or cold. Changes in temperature will affect the home. If complex electronics does not work ahead of the curve in a frame house, then there will be abrupt processes.
Heaters with higher heat capacity, for example, sawdust have a mass (300-400 kg / m3), while small air pores do not allow the air to accelerate quickly. If ecowool is laid normally, then it has about 85 kg / m3. Foams and foams do not have a significant mass, therefore they do not accumulate heat. Vermiculite is made from mountain mica and therefore retains heat. It is good as an accumulator both on ceilings and in wall cavities. It is also good when mixed 1: 1 with sawdust. The properties of expanded clay are several times different from vermiculite (20 cm of vermiculite in the backfill - 1-1.5 m of expanded clay).
The box of the house is often insulated with mineral wool. Front finishing: formerly metal square siding, but now it is often Chinese ceramics or our ceramic tiles. Less commonly, wet plaster is used, which often bursts, it has to be repaired.
During the construction of brick buildings, foam / extruded polystyrene foam is also laid in the monolith, although this is unacceptable. Often it is laid closer to the facing brick, often with gaps. The material is vapor-opaque, the wall begins to damp.
Old buildings - 50-70cm of monolithic brickwork.
If the well masonry, you want to put insulation there between the bricks, then the min. Wool lasts 10-15 years, and the brick is much longer. Disassemble facing masonry and change insulation? Therefore, outside they make metal siding, false beams, ...
Vermiculite can be poured into the cavity of the well masonry. The thickness of the backfill should be at least 15-20 cm. The approximate life of vermiculite is 70 years. In this case, do not forget to reinforce the outer facing brick with the bulk of the wall. This is the perfect solution.
We will not consider structural materials that can be considered as insulation (brick, wood, concrete).
All of the above heaters:
Natural insulation: Sawdust, moss and vermiculite.
(Update October 6, 2013)
Geokar (peat block), straw, foam glass are not widespread, since the place of production can be remote from the consumer. All three are environmentally friendly.
Geocar
made from peat. Peat is subdivided into high and low peat. Mostly horseback is used. Where moss turns into peat (1 mm per year), it is high moss.
Russia receives trillions of tons of peat a year for free. Natural wax is even obtained from peat, which is used in perfumery. High-moor peat contains less decomposed fractions. It is they, in my opinion, that are used in geocar. Horse peat is also used for fuel (briquetted peat). Peat is hard to come by. It is necessary to drain the swamps, squeeze the peat, dry, ...
Geocar production: Peat is mixed with water, resulting in viscous properties. The fibers are as small as cement. At the same time, the solution is plastic, you can even glue something on it. Also sawdust (usually 50% of the briquette) is included in the geokar. Pressing, drying, .... Sawdust acts as a stabilizer in terms of geometric parameters. Flammability class - slightly flammable. Up to 5 floors were built from the geokar block.
Geokar has very good antiseptic properties, completely disinfecting the room. In the prison, they laid out a geokarom and the incidence of tuberculosis was reduced by 90%.
Heat saving ability is good. The block is structural. Blocks 200 by 500, if I'm not mistaken, the height is about 5 cm. Thin blocks dry faster.
Inside, a brick house can be lined, but you can outside. It is imperative to plaster on top to protect it from fire. Rodents do not perceive it at all, if I am not mistaken. It can be used, in principle, in well masonry, but I have not seen this. In terms of operating conditions, in my opinion, it has 50 years of operation. The material is vapor-transparent. Poorly accumulates harmful impurities. The building is environmentally friendly with good side effects, such as purifying the air from germs and bacteria.
In terms of cost, it is quite competitive. But peat extraction is very costly. Plus, you need a lot of sawdust during production. All this can deter producers from expanding their assortment. The equipment is offered for 20 million rubles. Technologically, everything seems to be simple, so this price seems overpriced. You need a good peat deposit. With state support, the material could be widely disseminated. I liked and like the material. Safe, non-toxic, durable, completely fireproof, can be used for self-supporting structures.
The adobe construction was well described by a specialist who gave an interview on the Slavic radio Veda-Ra. There, the technological features of adobe, self-supporting adobe, adobe when using a frame were specifically mentioned.
In adobe house building, hay or any kind of hay is not used. Baled straw either after buckwheat, or millet or rye, I don't remember. The peculiarity is that there should be tubes that have a glassy hexagonal shape, which are preserved for a long time, do not rot, do not rot. It turns out to be a very good building material. You need to decide what adobe is made of and whether there are opportunities for its production in your region.
Straw is harvested using a baling machine directly in the fields during harvesting. It turns out a ready-made building material. It is worth transporting it and you can insulate the under-roof space with it, you can make a self-supporting adobe out of it, ...
The adobe blocks can be laid by piercing with carbon fiber reinforcement. Metal in construction, I generally do not consider in large volumes, especially the looped, pin-shaped, sticking out in the wall.
I admire the desire for harmony with nature. But it is wrong to pierce the adobe house with metal fittings vertically or horizontally, to use a metal mesh for plastering.
Self-supporting structure tends to shrink. After installing the roof, shrinkage occurs, then finishing. The self-supporting frame distributes the load on the straw blocks (somewhere a bubble may come out, the height may decrease). The best was the use of adobe in frame housing construction, in my opinion. Classic frame, double frame (for interior and exterior cladding).
Sometimes they themselves knit straw. The price of straw is cheap, but delivery can be expensive if the distances are long.
Adobe construction has become widespread in the south of Russia, in the Ukraine, in Belarus. In Siberia, I have not met such a constructive. With a large temperature conflict, condensation occurs. Such drops are repeated during one winter from 20 to 50 times can bring to the fact that adobe will become damp. Large amounts of snow also require a solid foundation. Our foundation is either stone-cobblestone or absent altogether. We also need a high base so that the snow does not get swept up.
From a commercial point of view, the market price will be ridiculous, as buyers will not appreciate it. Although the construction cost is comparable to a wooden house. A beam, frame, foam concrete can cause a greater feeling of reliability, durability, and practicality for the client.
Saman has no refractory properties. It must be plastered inside and out with clay mortars, plasters. Tests have shown that plastered straw can hold fire for about two hours, if I'm not mistaken.
Many say that such a house calms down, forms good energy. Residents in such a house are very comfortable. It is an integral part of sustainable building. The tree is some kind of violence. They used to chop correctly, asking for forgiveness from the tree. Straw has a minimal death that will not upset anyone. Plus the straw keeps life in your home. That's so tricky.
The minimum wall thickness is 50 cm, if I'm not mistaken. Those. up to 10 sq.m. in the house we lose 10 by 10 meters. The market price is from 10 to 15 thousand rubles per square meter, so count it.
A house of 10 by 10 meters, 3 meters high, requires 24 cubic meters of vermiculite in the well masonry for the frame (the cost will be 103 thousand rubles, and with insulation of the ceiling and floor 20 cm with vermix (vermwood) about 100 thousand rubles will come out).
Foam glass
The equipment and production that I know is located in Ukraine. Therefore, this insulation will be of interest to the residents of Ukraine. He enters Russia. But its cost, if I'm not mistaken, is 10-14 thousand rubles per cubic meter.
Production: The cullet is heated to a fluid state, then the foaming process takes place. Inside, small bubble voids are obtained. The material is black, porous. In terms of properties, we are indistinguishable from ordinary glass: durable, vapor-proof, does not burn. It can be cut, adjusted, i.e. good enough at handling. The compressive load is similar to a brick of 120th density or something, i.e. it can hold the load well on itself, it can be built from it, like a brick.
used as insulation in nuclear reactors, in all important buildings like hotels.
Can be used in regions with high humidity and under water. It does not absorb liquid. Two sizes, one brick-like, the other larger.
The service life is more than 70-100 years.
Ideal for basement use. Just like in penoplex (penoplex) there are no open pores.
Strongly resembles the rock after a volcanic eruption. Such insulation was used in ancient times.
The vapor transparency of the building will be reduced to zero, with the exception of masonry joints. Many experts say that it can be used to insulate brick houses. But in my opinion, the liquid will remain in the structure.
It makes sense to build completely from foam glass so that the liquid does not pass at all. But the market price is high.
Penoplex costs 4600 rubles per cubic meter.
Foam glass crumb (fight) is cheap. It can also be used for well masonry, since gaps are formed between the particles, in my opinion, steam can pass between them. In this form, still all right.
I may be delusional as there are enough sources.
Thermal conductivity is worse than that of the same vermiculite. Foam glass is needed twice as much.
In Ukraine (and not in Siberia) 15-20 cm for heat stabilization, I think, will be more than enough.
The product is often used for industrial purposes.
In order to protect from the rain, houses made of wood or adobe (clay with chopped straw) are often sheathed with boards that rot intensively. And plastering a wall containing organic matter is not only useless, but also harmful. The coating cracks, the wall stops "breathing" and a fungus appears.
A more reliable solution is the use of modern plastic lining (PV), plus competent wall ventilation. You can even lay insulation.
Here is a diagram of such a design (Fig. 1). Air through the ventilation hatch penetrates into the space between the cladding and the wall (or insulation), rises up and exits near the roof. In this case, it is important that the ventilation gap is at least 1-2 cm.
Cover it from above with fiberglass facade plaster mesh and nail it down with plastic washers (cut from 4 × 4 cm baklashki). We put a copper wire under the washers, tying the canvas.
We nail plaster shingles in the center. Maintenance of the wall is very simple: in the spring we open the hatches so that it dries properly, and we close it for the winter.
Attention!
It is impossible to use foam, pressed glass wool plates and mineral wool on aluminum foil for insulation - these are airtight coatings.
Decorating the walls of an adobe house and ventilation device: drawings
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Those living in adobe buildings note that due to the high massiveness and thermal inertia of the walls made of heavy adobe, in summer they are cool, and in winter, fluctuations in the outside temperature have little effect on the temperature in the house. However, walls made of heavy material are not always energy efficient enough, and they have to be insulated.
Heavy monolithic walls or built of blocks in terms of strength may not be inferior to brick
A wall made of heavy adobe, dense and without voids (density 1200-1600 kg / m³), is close in terms of its thermal conductivity to effective (hollow) brick or foam concrete (depending on the ratio of clay and straw in the material) and has a thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.3- 0.6 W / (m × оС).
The more straw it contains, the warmer it will be.
In the conditions of Ukraine, the thickness of the wall with such a thermal conductivity of the material should be about a meter, which is difficult to implement and unprofitable in terms of labor costs.
Therefore, a wall of heavy adobe is usually made 40-50 cm thick, and then insulated and plastered.
Saman requires the use of vapor-permeable insulation. Expanded polystyrene is excluded, mineral wool enthusiasts of adobe construction consider non-ecological.
Experts recommend using reeds (reeds), which do not absorb moisture, do not rot and have a tubular structure with air inside the stems. It is used in the form of mats, laid in a layer of at least 10 cm and firmly fixed to the wall with dowels.
There is a lot of straw in light adobe, so it cannot be used for the construction of supporting structures and requires a frame.
On top of the insulation, 2-3 cm of clay or lime plaster is applied (the latter is more durable).
The coldest places in any home are the corners.
The advantage of adobe technology is the ability to avoid problem areas by making rounded corners of the outer walls, slightly increasing their thickness.
Light adobe
Walls made of lightweight material do not have a high inertia, but they have a high energy-saving capacity (at a density of 500 kg / m³ and below, the material can be used as a heat insulator).
Their thickness can be 25 cm, but blowing through is possible (like shell rock) and, as a rule, the walls are made 30-40 cm thick. The denser the adobe is rammed, the warmer the structure.
Due to the fact that the structure of the walls has a frame, the density of light adobe can be significantly reduced, achieving a high level of thermal insulation with a thin wall. Even with a wall thickness of 25 cm, the house does not require insulation.
However, in this case, it is important to use a strong plaster and exclude the formation of cracks in order to avoid blowing through.
Cracks can occur when the material is loosely laid and shrinks around the window frames, in the places where the adobe comes into contact with the frame, when the plaster cracks. However, they are easy to cover up, to renovate the plaster (the adobe house is easy to repair).
Expanded clay or light adobe is usually used to insulate the floor in the house.
Good day! I ask for help in repairing and insulating an old adobe house. House built in 37 years. Saman measuring 20x20x40. Over the years, it has become so dense that it has become like a stone. There was a need to disassemble part of the corner - they could hardly do it, so adobe blocks were firmly adhered to each other. But the house is cold. The windows were replaced with modern ones, slopes and window sills were repaired "conscientiously" - nowhere from them blows. The house is lined with bricks. The foundation is also adobe. The floor is cold. Heating from the boiler - there are batteries and PVC pipes in the rooms. But even with a frost of 10 degrees - the walls are cold. How to insulate a house?
Olga, Salsk, Rostov region.
Hello Olga from Salsk, Rostov region!
Unfortunately, I cannot be useful with anything real, except for advice. You live too far from me to come to you with workers and try to rectify the situation.
From the available practice, I can say the following. There are such buildings that, no matter how much they would insulate, they still remain cold.
And in order to create a comfortable temperature in the room, it is necessary to have a powerful heating system constantly working. Which is associated with high costs for fuel or other energy resources.
Let's digress first and speculate purely in theory.
You have a fairly solid adobe house lined with bricks on the outside, installed on the edge, which was done for its more beautiful decoration on the outside. Most likely, there is no insulation between adobe and brickwork. As a result, the walls make up an array that accumulates the temperature regime that is dictated mainly by the external temperature background.
It is clear that heating the interior space somewhat increases the temperature of the walls, but not sufficiently. In addition, the surface of the ceiling (indirectly and the attic and the roof) and the floor also has a significant effect on the temperature inside the room.
Based on these tedious theoretical conclusions, it follows that in order for the temperature inside the house to be tolerable for living in the very cold season, it is necessary to insulate, or rather to isolate the flow of cold along all these surfaces. Including windows and doors, which are conductors of cold.
You write that the windows are made to last and the cold does not pass through them. On the doors facing the street, there should also be thermal curtains, and in short, there should be tambours-adapters or some kind of curtains.
Therefore, it remains to insulate the walls, floor and ceiling.
Most often, when lining adobe walls with bricks in problem houses, insulation is placed between adobe and brick. Since you have not done this, you should insulate according to one of two options. Or outside the house. Or inside the house. For your case, the second option is most likely suitable. Because if you insulate outside, you will be tortured to heat the heating system.
Ideally, insulation in such cases is done as follows. The walls are sheathed with clapboard, which is mounted on lighthouses (cranial bar with a section of 75/50 millimeters). Insulation 50 millimeters thick is placed between the lighthouses. Then an air gap of 25 millimeters is left between the insulation and the lining. Insulation on both sides is lined with a vapor barrier film. The distance between the lighthouses is usually 600 millimeters, a multiple of the dimensions of most heaters.
That is, once again and in order, the entire technology of wall insulation.
A vapor barrier film is attached to the adobe walls. With self-tapping anchors, beacons 75/50 are attached to the walls and installed on the edge. Between the lighthouses, a heater is attached with "fungi" (self-tapping screws with plates or special purchased ones). A second layer of film is mounted on the lighthouses. An air gap of 25 millimeters is obtained between it and the insulation. The lining is nailed (instead of it, other materials such as plywood, various panels, plates, etc. can be installed)
Insulation of the ceiling from the inside of the room is carried out in the same way as the insulation of walls. In addition, in the attic space, the floor can also be insulated by laying insulation (from expanded clay and ending with mineral plates or rolls).
Floor insulation is a special conversation. This insulation is sometimes more important than wall insulation, since there is not always a warm basement or underground under the house. If possible, then both the basement and the ceiling above the basement are insulated in approximately the same way as described above. If there is no basement, no underground floor, then a radical alteration is not excluded. When the entire old floor is opened to a decent depth.
That is, floor boards, logs are dismantled, soil is removed to a certain depth. After that, a new floor is mounted in the form of a puff cake. The soil is leveled, waterproofing from roofing material or its analogs is laid. Approximately 15 cm layer of expanded clay is filled in. Then a reinforced concrete screed with a thickness of 5 and more centimeters is made. Lay the genital lags, antiseptic. Lay the floor.
It is clear that all this is quite time-consuming and costly. It is associated with many inconveniences in removing furniture or dragging it from place to place, so as not to interfere with work. Possible dismantling of pipes of the heating system and its batteries, since it is necessary to move them from the old walls by an amount of 75 millimeters plus the thickness of the wall material. The internal usable volume of the room will also be reduced by double this size. It is also possible to reduce the height of the room by lowering the ceiling surface and raising the floor.
But in the end, the thermal regime inside the room rises and you will feel yourself much better than before.
There are, of course, many other insulation options. But the given one is the most frequently used one.
Other questions about adobe houses.
What is the best way to insulate the house from the outside? This question worries all owners. The cool temperature in the living quarters in the cold season creates discomfort, in addition, finances are spent on additional heating, and this is impractical.
The line of modern heaters is large. To choose the right thermal insulation, you need to familiarize yourself with the technical characteristics of each.
External insulation: choice of material
The market for modern thermal insulation materials is large. These are synthetic and natural insulation. All of them differ from each other in technical characteristics - thermal conductivity, water absorption, specific gravity, installation methods, strength and others.
Among the natural materials for insulating a house outside, the following can be distinguished:
- adobe (clay + straw + additives);
- expanded clay (relevant if the owner decides to build an additional outer wall in half a brick);
- warm plaster.
The assortment of synthetic insulation, which can be used to sheathe the walls of the house from the outside, is wider:
- expanded polystyrene (regular and extruded);
- polyurethane foam;
- penoizol;
- mineral wool (basalt is preferable).
All heaters can be divided into two groups:
- for self-assembly;
- for professional installation.
The first include any types of plasters (adobe and warm), expanded polystyrene (polystyrene and expanded polystyrene), mineral wool, expanded clay.
Polyurethane foam can be attributed to the ideal thermal insulation of a house from the outside, but only specialists can sheathe (insulate) it, since the material belongs to sprayable.
The situation is similar with penoizol (urea foam). This is liquid thermal insulation, for the installation of which you need a special installation and high-quality protection of the insulation from moisture.
In order to choose the right material, you need to decide on some conditions:
- financial component;
- insulation quality;
- complexity / ease of installation.
The most expensive insulation is the insulation of a house outside with polyurethane foam. The cheapest option is polystyrene. In addition, it is lightweight, so self-assembly is available (you can sheathe the outside of the house in a day). This insulation does not need a crate; it is glued with special glue directly to the wall.
Advice. Expanded polystyrene (polystyrene / polystyrene foam) is demanding on the quality of the walls. Therefore, before insulating them, they need to be put in order - cleaned of the peeling old coating, check with a level for deviation from the horizontal and align, if necessary.
The next option for the price is mineral wool. It is not demanding on the evenness of the walls, but it requires double-sided waterproofing and the installation of a ventilated facade, which entails additional labor costs.
What kind of insulation should you prefer? To answer this question, you need to consider some of the technical characteristics of each of them, and also decide how difficult it is to sheathe the walls of the house from the outside with one or another material.
Expanded polystyrene
Polyfoam and polystyrene foam are representatives of expanded polystyrene. The differences between these heaters in price are significant. The same can be said about their technical characteristics:
- Thermal conductivity. For foam and foam, it is approximately the same, but the water absorption of the former is 4 times higher (4% per day) than of the latter. Penoplex almost does not absorb moisture, therefore it is recommended for insulating walls from the outside.
- Strength / fragility. Polyfoam is difficult to work with, as it is fragile and crumbles at the cut. Penoplex has a fine-mesh structure, besides, all cells are very firmly connected to each other, therefore the material is much stronger than foam in bending and compression. It can be cut with a regular or clerical knife, the cut will not crumble.
- Flammability. Expanded polystyrene refers to combustible insulation. However, their modern versions are produced using fire retardants, which significantly reduces the risk of accidental fire. When choosing a material, pay attention to the "G" marking. G1 is a hardly flammable, self-extinguishing insulation. There is also polystyrene specially for insulating facades - PSB-S-25F. The share of fire retardants in such a composition is significant, therefore it is prohibited to use it for insulation inside residential premises.
- Sensitive to solvents. Polyfoam and polystyrene foam are sensitive to organic solvents, therefore, to sheathe a house with them, polyurethane foam glue or dry compounds are used, which are mixed with water according to the instructions immediately before use.
- The need for finishing. Both types of polyurethane foams must be protected from weathering. For these purposes, plastering is used on a fiberglass mesh and further painting or plastering the bark beetle. It is permissible to use warm plaster as additional insulation outside.
Important
... Polyfoam and polystyrene foam are rather fragile insulation. Therefore, the layer of plaster should be small.
The disadvantage of such wall insulation is the love of rodents to arrange nests in expanded polystyrene. To prevent them from getting to the insulation, it is necessary to install a zero level from a metal profile. There is no other way to protect yourself from the penetration of mice into the insulation.
Mineral wool
This insulation is chosen by many and this is quite justified. Its technical characteristics are more than attractive:
- The material is available in various densities, which allows it to be sheathed not only for the wall of the house outside and inside, but also used for thermal insulation of the floor or roof.
- The form of release of mineral wool - mats, rolls, plates, as well as foil insulation.
- Basalt thermal insulation does not burn, withstanding heating up to 1000 ° C. This allows it to be used not only for wall insulation, but also for chimneys.
- The thermal conductivity of mineral wool is low.
- Water absorption is artificially reduced due to impregnation with water repellents, however, during installation, it is still necessary to install waterproofing on both sides of the insulation.
- Rodents are indifferent to cotton wool.
- The material is inert to most chemical and organic solvents.
- It is easy to work with cotton wool, so DIY installation is available.
The technology of installing mineral wool on walls from the outside and from the inside - on glue and frame. In the first case, finishing with plaster is done (wet facade system), in the second - with siding, block house, porcelain stoneware (hinged and ventilated facade systems).
Frame technology installation of mineral wool includes the following steps:
- The wall of the house is treated with an antiseptic and dried.
- Then waterproofing is installed and the bars of the vertical crate are stuffed.
- The insulation is cut to size and installed in the niches of the lathing raspor (both "hanging" it and "protruding" is unacceptable).
- After that, the mineral wool is tightened with a vapor barrier membrane.
- You can additionally install horizontal guides that will fix the cotton wool in the niches.
Additional steps are not required to properly sheathe the outside of the house with mineral wool. The finishing of such insulation - siding, block house, porcelain stoneware - any options installed on a frame or lathing.
Expanded clay and adobe
Natural insulation is cheap, it is not a problem to purchase them. Therefore, quite often the owners of private houses choose them. In addition, they are environmentally friendly, breathe, which is attractive for many.
The walls of the house are insulated with expanded clay during the construction phase. You can do this after its completion, but for such insulation you need to lay out additional walls at a distance of about 20 cm from the main ones. You will get a well masonry. The space between the walls must be isolated from moisture and covered with expanded clay (mix the insulation of various fractions), then spilled with cement milk to reduce its settling and increase its strength.
Important ... As additional thermal insulation, walls already insulated with expanded clay can be finished with warm plaster from the outside.
Saman has been used to insulate the walls of houses for a long time. But the technology of its compilation is complicated. Nobody knows the exact recipe for the plaster composition, since much depends on the quality of the clay. Therefore, this method of insulating walls from the outside is considered difficult and time consuming (the master is experimenting every time). Insulated walls must be protected from moisture, so they are whitewashed with lime. The result of such insulation is an environmentally friendly house, which is pleasant to be in at any time of the year.
What material to stop on
After analyzing the installation technology and some of the qualities of heaters, it is easy to decide which one to choose. The easiest and cheapest way is to sheathe the outside of the house with Styrofoam. More expensive and better quality - penoplex. Mineral wool is a breathable material, but it requires a ventilated facade. Polyurethane foam is not picky about the quality of the walls, it adheres perfectly to them, completely insulates the house from the penetration of cold air and moisture, but the price of such insulation is high. Thermal insulation with natural materials - not for everybody. They are cheap, but they require significant labor costs.