How to install vinyl siding with your own hands. Do-it-yourself siding installation: similar instructions and a step-by-step master class from siding experts (130 photos)

The popularity of siding is increasing day by day. This is the most demanded material for facade cladding. It is available to any cottage owner, looks beautiful and is easy to install.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for installing siding with your own hands will help you complete the cladding efficiently and quickly. Whatever panels you choose: vinyl, metal, fiber cement, the technology of work is almost universal.

First step: Lathing device.

Installation is carried out on a pre-prepared frame made of metal or wood.

Choice of crate.

The crate is assembled from a metal profile or wooden bars. The step is maintained at 40cm for vinyl and 50cm for metal.

The metal frame is stronger, it is not subject to rotting and deformation, it is easier to install it on an uneven surface. Profiles are attached to the wall on brackets or hangers, which allow you to adjust the structure in terms of level.

A crate from a bar will cost less. The main thing is that the wood is dry, without defects. The timber must be treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant impregnation. Fasten with screws.

Surface preparation.

The walls are cleaned: unnecessary details (platbands, tiles, etc.) are removed, adjacent elements (gutters, lamps, visors) are removed. If necessary, cover up cracks. The wooden facade is impregnated with an antiseptic solution.

Frame installation.

The guides are fixed following the rule: if the casing is horizontal, the profile / beam is placed in a vertical position, and vice versa.

The connection is made with dowels for a brick wall and self-tapping screws for a wooden one. The structure is leveled.

There are two ways to insulate the facade:

set the step of the crate according to the width of the insulation, lay the insulation between the rails,
build an additional frame for the insulating layer, then the crate will go parallel from above.

Second step: Installing the starting bar.

This is an important stage by which the quality of all work is determined. Therefore, the installation of the starting bar is carried out exactly horizontally!

Using a level or water level on the crate, find the lower point, from which it is 5 cm higher. Put a mark - screw in the screw.
In the corners and around the entire perimeter, set screw marks in the same way.
Pull the nylon threads between the marks on the corners.
Attach the corner profile and mark the border on the crate.
We retreat 6 mm from the corner bar. (thermal expansion gap) and fasten the starting rail to the frame. Between the rails we observe a gap of 1 cm.
We check the horizontalness of the installed J-profiles. It is important not to allow deviations, otherwise the siding panels will warp!

Third step: Installation of corner strips.

External and internal elements at the corners are installed using the same technology.

Mark spotlights.
Attach the profile to the corner of the crate, retreat 3mm from the edge of the soffit. Lower the lower edge by 6 mm. below the edge of the J-profile. Fix the corner element with self-tapping screws in two places.
Check verticality, then fix from top to bottom with a distance of 20-40 cm. Place self-tapping screws in the center of special holes along the edges of the planks, fix the highest point in the upper zone of the hole.
When the height of the facade is more than 3 meters, connect the corner profile with an overlap of 2.5 cm in length. To do this, cut the top element so that there is a gap of 9 mm between the planks of the joining elements. Joint at all corners to perform at the same level.
If the plinth is protruding, maintain a distance of 6 mm from it to the profile.

Fourth step: Installation of platbands.

There are three systems for framing openings:

The window or door is flush with the wall.

In this case, you can use the J-bar. It is important to connect correctly at the corners.

Lay waterproofing.
Install two vertical J-strips or trim on both sides.
Fasten the profile horizontally above the opening with a minimum of 6 cm extension beyond the frame. from each side.
Connect the slats in the following way: cut a strip in the lower part of the horizontal profile and bend it down, make a 2 cm incision on the vertical slats on the side. and cut at a 45 degree angle. upper part.
Fasten the top and side elements.
Attach the bottom rail in the same way, but run the strip on the vertical elements. It is necessary to make strips so that they cover the joint of the skin, protecting it from the penetration of moisture inside.

Openings with slopes no more than 20 cm.

Finish with window slats or platbands.

Mount the finishing strips around the perimeter.
Install the top and bottom profile first, then the side profiles.
Make connections as described above.

Openings with deep slopes.

Usually they are trimmed with siding. From the inside, a flexible ebb is installed.

Fasten the inner and outer corner panels around the perimeter.
Install siding between them.

Fifth step: Fastening the first panel.

The general rule of fixation: you can not nail and pull the siding tightly, gaps are required for temperature changes in size. It should be fastened in increments of 30-40 cm.

Insert the first panel into the corner piece and the lock of the starter bar. There is a gap of 6 mm between the panel and the lower edge of the lock. (when installing in the cold season, leave 9 mm.).
Attach the siding to the batten.

Extension can be done:

Overlap 2.5 cm, to do this, shorten the fastening strips and panel locks.
H-profile - performed similarly to the splicing of corner strips. Before the soffit, leave a gap of 3 mm., For the starting bar, lower the profile by 6 mm. The same gap is maintained near any structures protruding on the wall.

Sixth step: Installation of siding.

Mount the remaining panels in the same way as the first.
Check the level every 2-3 rows.
When installing siding around openings, trim if necessary. At the bottom of the window, fix an additional finishing rail to align the sheathing plane.
Fasten with "hooks".

Seventh step: Cladding under the roof.

A finishing bar is attached under the roof structure:

Measure the distance between the lock of the penultimate panel and the bottom line of the lock of the finish bar, step back 2 mm.
On a separate panel, cut off the top locking module.
Make hooks on top at a distance of 20 cm from each other. Bend the cuts to the outside.
Insert the cut siding into the penultimate panel and snap the locks of the finishing element.

Eighth step: Sheathing the gables.

Finish the gables around the entire perimeter in the same sequence as the installation of the main panels, using an internal corner or starting rail.
Trim the edges of the connecting elements and attach the receiving strips with locks. Maintain an interval of 6/9 mm.
Fix the last panel to the crate directly through the material.

Key points in the work of finishing the siding.

Perform horizontal sheathing in the direction from bottom to top from left to right.
When locking the two panels together, effortlessly push the top siding into the bottom siding until it clicks into place.
Consider the thermal expansion of the material. Fix metal and PVC siding with a slight gap.
For fastening, only stainless (for example, galvanized) self-tapping screws or nails with a length of 35 mm or more, with a head of at least 8 mm, are suitable.
Fasten the self-tapping screw exactly in the center of the factory holes specially designed for this purpose, do not press the panel tightly. The exception is the last plank on the pediment.
Panel fixing pitch is not more than 45 cm, accessories - 25 cm and less.
On the facade of a log house, assembly can only be started after the building shrinks, otherwise the siding will “lead”.

In the company Vasha Roofing you can always order the installation of siding. Our installers will complete the work professionally and on time. With us you will receive a written guarantee for the installation and keep the manufacturer's warranty card for the material.

Siding is actively used for exterior decoration of buildings and structures. An inexperienced person will quickly get confused in a variety of materials, there are several technologies. When installing siding, it is important to stick to the plan, slowly completing each step.

Do-it-yourself installation

When installing siding, experts follow the instructions:

Material preparation.
Procurement of accessories for installation.
Design, layout.
Lattice installation.
Foundation preparation.
Fixing guides.
Installation of a profile under a siding.
Corner installation.
Finishing around windows.
Framing to taste.
Panel installation.
Fronton trim.
Walkway under the roof.
Final score.

We mount the crate

When installing siding, everything rests on the material, so it is recommended to do it conscientiously. Well-known and less popular materials are available, each with its own advantages. For fasteners, the condition of the surface is taken into account. In general, the following main stages of work can be distinguished:

Decide on the material.
Take care of the foundation.
Install guides.

The first stage - choose the material

According to the material for a residential building, they choose between metal, wood. The easiest way is to buy bars of the required thickness, but the metal has its own characteristics. Durability is taken into account, plus it is suitable for drywall, but thermal conductivity affects. For wood, it is not necessary to use a heater. The metal is considered durable, but after a while it will be overtaken by corrosion.

To fence off this trouble, materials with a galvanized surface are used. If we consider large residential buildings, it is foolish to hope that there are bars of an ideal even shape. With any change in temperature, the wood is driven in an unknown direction, and in places a large degree of curvature. According to physical laws, even a small bar, when humidity increases, twists like a drill. Metal, in turn, is ideal in any situation.

The second stage - preparing the base

Regardless of the square of the building, you will have to start from the corners. Bars or profiles are fixed in a vertical position and checked for level. Further, a cord is stretched between the blanks, you can use a regular thread. This is the easiest option, there is no need to install a laser level on the wall.

When installing the crate, the step of each section plays an important role. Many are repelled by quadrature, but other factors will have to be taken into account:

Selected material type.
Surface condition.
The need for a heater.

Also at this stage, platbands and drains are prepared.

The third stage - set the guides

When the siding is fastened from top to bottom, the bars are laid in a horizontal position. Wooden blanks are better fastened on self-tapping screws. Nails are used as additional fasteners. Considering the concrete structure, you can not do without pre-drilling holes and further installing dowels.

We mount J-profiles

To prevent the panels from warping during operation, it is necessary to set the profiles according to the level. To do this, it is recommended to follow the instructions for dummies:

Applying markings to the railings.
Self-tapping fixing.
We make marks around the perimeter.
Level check.
Mounting the starting guide.
Gap check.

The profile should not rest against the corner, an indent of 6 mm is observed. If, when fixing the dowel, the bar is skewed, it is necessary to remove the fastener and re-install it. In the future, it will not be possible to correct the position of the element; it is worth double-checking in advance.

When attaching external corner profiles, the following instructions are observed:

Marking with a marker.
Sample profiles.
Self-tapping fixing.
Level check.

The slightest deviation is unacceptable, the distance between the clamps is about 400 mm, the indentation from the edge is 6 mm. The stores sell a profile of various lengths and when applying elements, the minimum overlap is 9 mm. To work with workpieces, an electric saw with a high torque is used.

Important! If a professional tool is not available, metal scissors will come in handy, in extreme cases, a hacksaw with fine teeth is taken.

We mount internal corner profiles

According to the technology, the fixation of the internal corner profile may differ. Workpieces with a length of 1 meter or more are used, and the elements are overlapped. In the upper part, it is necessary to provide a ledge, which is attached first. In total, 3 popular options for installing a profile are known:

Using a zigzag element.
Vertical fastening.
Horizontal fixation.

An indent of 10 mm is observed between the slats, fastening occurs from the upper workpiece.

We mount the frames of the openings

If the house has many windows, doors, a novice master may get confused. To get it right, it's important to follow a plan:

Waterproofing of openings.
Fixing platbands.
Profile attachment.
Final finishing.

If there are problems with the platbands, you will have to carefully remove the excess material. Initially, incisions are made, then the workpiece is gradually bent. If the material is deformed, the elements will not fit together. The profile must fit snugly against the bridge, distortions are not allowed. If we consider wide frames, the bridge has to be bent.

Openings in the same plane with the facade

As in the case of platbands, near window profiles love precision. At the first stage, the depth of the opening is estimated, then the bridge is prepared. The specialist is obliged to understand the finishing elements in order to prevent moisture from entering the surface. When the opening is flush with the facade, a slope is not required.

Apertures recessed into the facade

To make a slope with your own hands, measurements are made, bridges are prepared. All finishing elements should be at hand; at the end of the work, the profile is fixed.

Installing the first panel

Siding installation starts from the back wall of the house. Various surprises are possible, it is important to be prepared for the worst scenario.

Overall plan:

Panel installation.
Connection check.
Fixing to the crate.
Level check.

When fixing the panel to the crate, a person evaluates the technological indent. The parameter depends on the ambient temperature, in summer it is less than 6 mm, and in winter the panel is set to a distance of 9 mm.

We build up panels

If a non-H profile is used, the panels are overlapped. This method is considered simpler, since there is no need to check the locks. The minimum indent from the top of the soffit is 0.3 cm (the panel is laid with an overlap of 3 cm). A large indent is allowed from below, the distance from the guide is taken into account.

Installing the rest of the siding

According to the technology, the whole house is facing, it is recommended to take the level after installing 2-3 rows of siding. To avoid fiddling around the edges for a long time, it is recommended to shorten the panels in advance.

Interesting! In order to level the cladding along the plane, a finishing profile is used.

Mounting under the roof

Only the J-profile is suitable for the wall, and when installation is carried out, the specialists act according to the plan:

Measuring the distance between the panels.
Markup for finishing elements.
Calculation of indentation from above and below.
Siding preparation.
Cuts are made on the panel.
Checking the hooks.
Siding fixing.

We mount the pediment

Gables are found in various shapes, but they begin to sheathe them around the perimeter. At the same time, the necessary fasteners are installed in the central part, the starting profiles are fixed according to the level, and the inner corners are checked. As with wall panels, various mounting technologies are available.

To speed up the siding installation process, it is recommended to trim the elements in advance. Most often, difficulties arise precisely with locks, since the indentation is not respected (at least 6 mm). If the last panel does not become, then the level has swum, you will have to redo everything.

Features of installation in winter

If you install siding in the winter, there is a high risk of doing something wrong. The discomfort of workers due to low temperatures is taken into account, and technology is additionally taken into account. The material can react differently to frost, the difference in humidity is taken into account. The main thing is to prevent significant overheating of the material, try to keep a stable temperature.

If the panels are unloaded near heating devices, its deformation will definitely occur. When vinyl siding is on hand, it should only be exposed indoors. Panel preparation also takes place under the roof. Already at a temperature of -5 degrees, the plastic becomes unusually fragile. Even if you work with a grinder, a big crack can go, so the specialist decides for himself the possibility of bending the workpiece, this is displayed on the amount of marriage.

As mentioned earlier, when working in winter, the indentation of the panels is taken into account. In the cold, the siding will definitely become smaller and straighten out when it gets warmer. In order not to miscalculate the gap, it is important to leave a distance of 6 mm. If the temperature does not rise sharply, everything will be fine.

Compensation for the length of the workpiece is partially extinguished by the adjacent panel. Another secret lies in the use of fasteners, self-tapping screws are considered effective, but nails increase the chance of damaging the siding. Elements with a 2 mm head are selected, self-tapping screws are fixed clearly in the center, work is not allowed along the edges.

Do-it-yourself siding dismantling

If you do not want to contact specialists, you can make an independent dismantling of the siding. Such work may be required when the panels are deformed, or the window is moved. Also, often the owners are looking for better quality siding and want to replace it.

Important! From the tools for dismantling, you will need an unpacker, as well as a nail puller.

Special skills are not required, the main thing is to follow the step-by-step instructions. The unpacker can be sold in the store, but it is easy to do it yourself, you only need a plate with a sheet thickness of 3 mm. Touching on the theme of the nail puller, tools with a wide foot are suitable. If we consider compact models, the likelihood of damage to the insulation increases. Also, inexperienced builders with screwdrivers are able to break through the membrane.

Dismantling begins with the lower slats, everything is done easily, without excessive physical effort. The big advantage is that you can do without a partner on the construction site. Finished panels are recommended to be laid side by side on a pre-prepared site. All the work is that the unpacker needs to pry off the panel from the bottom side.

Then there is a tightening on itself, the siding is shifted slightly down. If everything is done correctly, the lock opens, the panel is easily detached. Some will have difficulty with fastening, since the life of the elements is taken into account. If the siding was installed recently, it is much easier to detach it.

The problem is that the plates lose their elasticity during prolonged use, they are easy to break in half. Thus, it is recommended to work carefully, not to make sudden movements. Having reached the starting bar, a previously prepared nail puller will come in handy. Fasteners are hooked from the top side.

Cost of siding installation

If there is no possibility or desire to independently install the siding, you need to familiarize yourself with the price list:

Installation of plastic siding on the wall - 250-300 rubles per square meter.
Hemming the roof - prices from 300 rubles. per square meter.
Work with fiber cement siding - 700-800 rubles. per square meter.
Film fixing - price per m2 60 rubles.
Collection and installation of wooden crates - 100 rubles. per metre.
Lathing on a brick surface - the cost per square meter is 200 rubles.
Collection and installation of a metal crate - the cost of work is 400 rubles. per metre.
Installation of a metal crate on a brick - 500-550 rubles.
The use of insulation with a thickness of 50 mm - 100-150 rubles. per metre.
Fixing insulation with a thickness of 100 mm - the price for the work is 200 rubles.

cost of siding removal

If you find a little-known company, it will dismantle the siding at a price of 100 rubles. per square meter. There are individuals who take up work at a price tag of 500 rubles. per square meter, the average price is 300 rubles. per metre. This cost includes the following steps:

Departure of the brigade.
Inspection of the object.
Removing siding.
Dismantling of decorative overlays.
Removal of slats ebbs.
End closures.
Dismantling planks.
Frame disassembly.
Removing the trim.
Removing the heater.
Final disposal of materials.

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How to properly install siding

Let's take care of the exterior of the building. It would seem that what a problem it is to choose siding and sheathe a house with it: the main thing is to like it and serve for a long time. I went to the store, bought materials, the necessary tools and started finishing.

In fact, it turns out to be a little more complicated: it is easy to make a mistake in the calculations, when choosing a sheathing or when installing finishing panels. Before buying the siding you like, you need to decide what material you will sheathe the house with. Vinyl and acrylic panels, wood, metal and fiber cement plates are used for decoration.

Vinyl and acrylic panels are most often used to finish the building (photo # 1)

We will tell you what material to choose, how to fix the siding so that it lasts a long time, does not crack or fade. In addition to siding, you need to choose the type of crate and insulation. Insulating a house is worth it if you live in it all year round, and not just in the summer.

You can do all the work yourself or hire an installation team. In the case of hiring workers, you will control the finishing process and point out errors during installation. If you decide to install siding yourself, you will need tools.

Tools that may be needed to attach the siding (photo # 2)

Choosing the right tools

You will learn how to attach siding to the wall from the outside and what tools you will need for this:

Construction roll. The length of the finishing panels is 3 meters or more (there are panels measuring 3.10 and 3.66 meters). If you mount the strips yourself, you will need a tape measure of the appropriate length (for example, 5 meters);

Building level. How to fix siding so that it does not break or deform? To do this, you need to install the crate and fix the panels strictly according to the level. It is desirable to have two levels: for short sections, use a tool with a length of 70-100 cm, for long surfaces - from 150 cm. Measure the vertical and horizontal laying accuracy;

Screwdriver. You will have to tighten a lot of screws, so it is better to refuse to use a screwdriver. To mount the panels on a wooden crate, you can use nails, then instead of a screwdriver you will need a hammer;

To attach the siding to the frame, a screwdriver is most often used (photo No. 3)

Drill. If the walls of the house are made of brick, concrete or foam blocks, to install the crate, you will need to drill holes and install dowels in them;

Hacksaw for metal. Vinyl and acrylic siding is easy to cut with a hacksaw. For these purposes, they also use an electric jigsaw with a metal blade;

Knife cutter. To give the slats the desired shape, use a cutter or a clerical knife with a thick blade (thin can break). A curly cut can also be made with a jigsaw.

Punch. Finishing and window strips often have to be cut. Cut off the part on which the mounting hooks are located. To make new hooks, professional installers use a punch.

To make new hooks on the bar, installers use a punch (photo # 4)

Stairs. For installation on the upper floors and on the gable, you will need a ladder. You can use an attached or folding ladder. To avoid damage to the sheathing, do not lean the stairs against vinyl or acrylic siding.

Types of crates

Let's move on to the installation and start with the choice of crates. The crate is made from:

wooden bars;
profiles for fixing drywall;
metal U-shaped profiles for siding;
plastic structures designed for mounting vinyl and acrylic panels.

Before installing the crate, inspect the surface. If there are cracks, crevices and other defects on it, they must be repaired. In the event that the old lining crumbles (for example, paint or plaster), it must be removed. If there are strong drops and irregularities on the walls, they should be smoothed out. Otherwise, the geometry of the wall will be violated and the siding may crack or deform.

After removing the irregularities, you need to treat the walls with a protective coating. To protect the walls of a wooden house, use an antiseptic and flame retardant: the first will cope with moisture and decay, the second will prevent fire. Treat concrete walls with a deep penetration primer. It will prevent mold and mildew.

Wooden crate for siding (photo No. 5)

The crate is mounted perpendicular to the siding panels. In other words, if you want to lay the siding horizontally, then the frame of the crate must be made vertical. And vice versa. The step between wooden beams or metal profiles should be 30-50 cm.

Hydro-wind insulation is laid under the crate. It protects the building from wind and moisture. Due to the presence of the crate, a ventilation gap is formed between the walls of the house and the finishing panels. The gap prevents the appearance of condensate harmful to the walls and cladding. To keep the house warm, you can lay insulation between the crate. For this, mineral wool and expanded polystyrene foam are used.

Let's consider in more detail each option of the crate

Wooden crate. It is made from bars 4 cm or 5 cm thick. When choosing bars, pay attention to the smoothness of the surface and the absence of cracks. Before installation, you need to dry the wood and cover it with solutions that protect the wood from decay and fire.

If you are faced with the question of how to fasten siding to wood, then there are 2 options: with a screwdriver and self-tapping screws or with a hammer and nails.

Metal lathing of walls and plinth (photo No. 6)

Profile for fixing drywall. If the task is to save money, then profiles for interior work are used for the installation of siding. Most often, drywall sheets are attached to such structures. Manufacturers do not recommend using drywall profiles outdoors. Due to the thin zinc coating, corrosion appears on them under the influence of moisture. They are intended for indoor use and are not suitable for attaching siding.

Metal U-shaped profile. For fastening the siding, a durable metal profile 1 mm thick is also used. This design is more reliable than the crate with a drywall profile, but it will cost more. If you are using heavy cladding panels (for example, plinth or metal siding), then you need to use street profiles.

Polymer facade fastening system "Alta-Profile". Polymer profiles are not subject to rust and decay, they do not need to be further processed and create special storage conditions. If you chose vinyl siding for the cladding of the building, you need to take into account that it expands in the hot summer and narrows in the winter. Polymer profiles prevent deformation of the cladding panels due to sudden temperature changes, they have the same expansion coefficient as the siding.

Plastic profiles are not subject to rust and decay (photo No. 7)

How to fix the siding starter strip

After installing the crate, we proceed to fixing the siding. If you are new to finishing and don't yet know how to install siding, start at the back of the building - possible mistakes will be less noticeable. For fastening the siding, auxiliary elements are used: mounting strips and profiles. They are starting, corner and connecting.

For fastening the siding, auxiliary elements are used: finishing strips and profiles (photo No. 8)

Siding installation begins with the installation of the starting bar. To do this, determine the lower mounting point and step back from it 1-2 cm up. Next, use a building level, chalk or marker to mark a horizontal line. To keep the structure stronger, a rigid base is attached under the bar, for example, a metal corner.

The bar is attached to the crate with self-tapping screws. Use galvanized fasteners, they are not subject to corrosion. Under the action of temperature, the bar expands, so do not tighten the screws (do not drive nails) to the end, leave a small gap (1-2 mm). Further laying of the skin depends on the accuracy of mounting the starting bar. After mounting the starting bar, mount the corner and near-window elements.

Expert advice. Self-tapping screws must be screwed into the middle of the oblong hole. Fasteners should not press the bar to the frame.

How to fix window siding strip

To fix the siding at the window, use a near-window bar or J-profile. The choice of fastening element depends on the location of the window. The window can be located flush with the wall or equipped with external slopes.

If the window is flush with the batten, use a J-profile. First fix the slats on the sides of the window opening, (vertically) so that they do not protrude beyond the window. After that, install horizontal rails: above the window and below the window.

Cut horizontal J-rails not flush with the window, but with a margin of 6 cm on each side. The cutting angle can be made straight or 45°. Do not forget about temperature differences, leave a small gap between the joints of the profiles.

To fix the siding at the window, use a near-window bar or J-profile. The choice of fastening element depends on the location of the window (photo No. 9)

For finishing a window opening with slopes up to 22 cm wide, near-window (or wide near-window) strips are used. The installation of the near-window structure takes place in two stages: first, finishing strips are mounted along the perimeter of the window, after which near-window strips are installed on them.

Slopes with a width exceeding 22 cm require an integrated approach to installation. From the side of the window, a J-profile is installed along the perimeter, from the outside, a structure is mounted from the outer corner, into which the siding panels are inserted.

Installing door trims

For mounting around doors, J-profiles and window trims are used. During installation, it is important to remember the temperature deformation of the elements and not to install them tightly to each other.

Finishing bar attachment

To install the last siding panel, a finishing bar is used. Most often it is used in the upper part of the wall under the eaves. A plank prepared in size with self-tapping screws is attached to the crate (leaving a gap of 1-2 mm). After that, the top part of the siding is placed under the bend of the finishing strip. The last panel may need to be trimmed. To fix the trimmed panel in the finish bar, make new hooks, for this use a punch.

To install the last siding panel, use the finishing bar (photo No. 10)

How to install siding on a wooden house

Finishing panels are installed on any type of building. It doesn't matter if the house is built of brick, foam blocks of concrete or wood, it can be finished with siding. We will talk about how to fix siding on a wooden house and other types of buildings.

Expert advice. Check siding for accuracy every 3 rows. Do this with a building level in the vertical and horizontal direction or use the Alta-Profil facade fixing system in order not to follow the level.

Before installation, wooden walls should be treated with a protective coating: antiseptic and flame retardant (photo No. 11)

Before installation, wooden walls should be treated with a protective coating: antiseptic and flame retardant. For mounting the crate, you can use nails or self-tapping screws, no additional holes need to be made.

When finishing concrete and brick buildings, the walls are covered with a primer, for mounting the battens, holes are drilled for dowels, into which self-tapping screws are screwed.

Attaching basement siding to foundation

Basement siding is used to cover the foundation. For this, vinyl panels of increased strength are chosen. Such panels are resistant to damage and any temperature changes. The structure and shape of the facade panels offers a wide variety of options. The design of facade panels is done "under the stone" and "under the brick".

Plinth panels are resistant to damage and to any temperature changes (photo No. 12)

Which panels to choose, and how to fix the basement siding to the foundation, you can decide for yourself. First, measure the foundation and calculate the required volumes. As with conventional siding, charge 10-15% more so you have a spare panel in case of a defect.

Plinth panels are thicker and heavier than usual, so for their installation choose a metal U-shaped profile for siding or ready-made polymer solutions "Alta-Profile" (facade fastening system). Otherwise, the installation of basement siding proceeds in the same way as the installation of standard panels.

Conclusion

We told how the siding is properly fastened, explained how to install the crate and choose materials. If you decide to sheathe the house with siding yourself, first of all check the availability of the necessary tools and calculate the required volumes of materials.

Prepare the walls, choose the type of lathing, insulating materials and insulation. When installing, do not forget that siding expands under the influence of temperature. Leave small gaps, so you can avoid deformation of the panels.

Siding is an excellent material for cladding a house. This rather inexpensive and long-lasting material can be installed with your own hands even by a person who does not have special building skills. To do this, just study the installation instructions for siding and watch the video material.

Wall surface preparation

Before starting work on the installation of panels, the walls of the sheathed building must be carefully prepared.

First of all, you should:

Remove all protruding window sills and ebbs.
Remove all kinds of fasteners, downpipes, existing moldings from the walls.
Remove loose plaster from the plastered surface.
On the wooden walls, nail all the lagging boards and replace the rotten ones.

After that, you can proceed with the installation of the frame, which can be made of a metal profile or a wooden beam.

Profile mounting

Experts recommend using a durable and strong metal crate, which you can attach with your own hands even to an uneven base. Such a frame is installed with a half-meter step and attached to the surface with the help of suspensions. This will fix the structural elements in level and smooth out surface differences.

When choosing a wooden crate, you should note for the following points:

the material should not have traces of rot and bluish spots;
it is unacceptable for the bars to be deformed;
the material must not flake.

In order for the wooden crate to last for a long time, it is impregnated with an antiseptic or fire retardant.

Profiles or bars are installed vertically on the wall of the house. They are attached to a wooden surface with self-tapping screws or nails. If the building is built of bricks or concrete blocks, then holes are drilled in the walls into which dowels are hammered.

Rules for fastening the frame of the crate:

Bars are mounted every 40 cm.
The rails should be fixed around all doors and windows, at all corners of the building, at the bottom and top of the siding.
The crate must be securely fastened.
The plane formed by the frame must be strictly vertical.
The panel is attached to at least two bars.
The front parts of the bars should not have distortions.

When installing the profile with your own hands, you must use a plumb line and a long level. With their help, the surface must be carefully marked, and the verticality of the plane carefully checked. Otherwise, the facade cladding may turn out to be uneven and wavy.

If the building must be additionally insulated, then the space between the lathing bars can be fill with special material. Under siding, it is recommended to use mineral wool in slabs. It is better not to lay loose insulation under the panels, since it is often deformed during operation. To make the surface of the house even, the thickness of the material must be equal to the thickness of the bars.

Sequence of work for home insulation:

Plates are fastened between the bars of the crate.
A diffusion wind-hydroprotective layer is installed on top of the insulation, which is fixed with perforated membranes.
Bars with a section of 4x2 cm are stuffed, with the help of which a gap for ventilation is provided.

Siding installation: video instruction, stages of work

Before starting work, prepare the following tools:

Roulette.
Building level.
Screwdriver.
Perforator or drill.
Electric jigsaw or knife. With their help, the panels will be prepared in size. Experts recommend using a jigsaw, after which a more beautiful cut is obtained.

You should be aware that if a grinder is used to cut panels, then it can only be used at low speeds. Otherwise, the cut of the vinyl sheet will heat up and melt.

Starter bar attachment

To a wooden or metal crate, the first siding panels are attached from below, and then each subsequent one is placed above the previous one. Due to this, the insulation and surfaces have an additional rain protection.

The correct installation of the entire cladding depends on the initial bar attached around the entire perimeter of the building, so this type of work should be approached with all responsibility.

The lower mark is marked (a self-tapping screw is screwed in or a nail is driven in), which should be 50 mm above the lower point of the crate.
Such marks should be made on all walls of the building. At the same time, a thread is pulled between the screws, the correct tension of which is checked by the building level.
On a stretched thread with the help of chalk, a line is marked along which the starting bars will be installed. As a result of the work, the start and finish marks should match.
Attach a bar to the corner crate and mark the boundaries of its location.
Stepping back from the marked border of 6 mm, you can proceed to fixing the starting profile. Do not forget that the distance between the slats should be from 10-12 mm. This is necessary so that during temperature changes they do not touch.
When using brackets as fasteners, the gap between them and the profile should be 1 mm.

Some experts advise immediately installing starter strips on door and window blocks. But the need for them does not always arise, since the sizes of windows and doors are often not ideal, and ordinary profiles may end up not at the level of the initial bar.

Do-it-yourself installation of corner profiles

Ordinary panels will be installed in the corner strips, so they are mounted first.

Mounting Features:

In order for the appearance of the building to look harmonious, the joints at the corners and the connector must be on the same level.

Installation of siding around openings

Openings can be located in the same plane with the facade or be recessed into it. So installation of panels around openings can be done in two versions.

If the openings with the walls are in the same plane, then the waterproofing is first mounted, and then 4 platbands are attached to each opening and the panels are connected. To prevent connections from being visible, the following rules must be observed:

make incisions-bridges on both sides of the upper profile with your own hands (they should be equal to its height);
bend the bridges down;
on the side profiles, remove pieces of material that interfere with the connection;
connect the side and top panel of the siding so that the bent bridges are inside;
connect the lower casing and side elements, in which bridges are notched on the sides.

The incised bridges go down so that atmospheric precipitation from the upper bar goes to the lower one.

If the openings are recessed into the facade, then the cuts on the profile must be equal to the depth of the opening. All other work is carried out in the same way as when installing platbands. The bridges should be bent so that the joints of the cladding parts are not visible. In this case, moisture will not get inside.

Installing the first panel

When doing the installation of siding with your own hands for the first time, it is recommended to start installing the first panels on the most inconspicuous side of the house.

Insert the panel into the corner profile and connect to the lock of the starter strip, leaving a 6 mm gap.
Attach the plank to the crate without tension.

Vinyl siding in the cold season can increase its size to 18 mm. Therefore, when installing it, it is necessary to strictly observe technological indents. If the cladding is installed in the winter season, then the gaps should be 9 mm, if in the summer - 6 mm.

Siding extension

Panels are stackable overlap or with H-profile.

Before overlapping, locks and fixing frames are trimmed so that the overlap length is 25 mm.
When installing the H-profile, 6 mm should be retreated from the starting strip at the bottom, and 3 mm at the top from the soffit. If there are protruding obstacles on the facade, 6 mm should be retreated from them, that is, the H-profile should not touch them. The H-profile is overlapped, in the same way as the corner strips.

Features of the installation of the main siding

To securely fasten the panels, a punch (special punch) is needed, with which “hooks” will be made.

From the bottom of the panel falling on the opening, a part is cut off equal to the width of the opening plus a double technological gap of 6 mm.

The strips cut off at the ends will be able to move in the lock of the near-opening profile and provide a margin of 2 mm.

A finishing profile must be installed in the lower part of the opening, with the help of which the cladding is leveled in a plane.

When installing siding with your own hands, it should be remembered that every third row of panels must be checked for horizontality, using a level for this.

under the roof J-profile should be installed, work with which is carried out in the following order:

The distance between the lock of the penultimate and the lock of the last panel is measured, from which 2 mm is subtracted by an indent.
On the whole bar, the result is noted and the upper part with the lock is cut off.
In the upper part of the resulting element, “hooks” are created, the distance between which should be 20 cm. For this, cuts are made that are bent to the front side.
The prepared panel is installed in the penultimate plank and connected upwards to the lock of the finishing profile.

The building is completed with siding along the perimeter of the pediment. To do this, you can use the start profile or panels for internal corners.

Installation is similar to installation of wall panels:

Since the profile will not be visible under the roof, the remains of the panels can be used to finish the gable.

Do-it-yourself siding installation will not cause difficulties if you first study video lesson and during work, strictly follow the instructions, as well as the advice and recommendations of specialists. As a result of such a finish, you will get a house that will delight the owners with its appearance for many years.

Sheathing a house with siding is possible even for a beginner. It is enough to know the procedure and some of the nuances of installation. If you decide to choose vinyl siding as a facing material, do-it-yourself installation is more than simple.

PVC siding is flexible and pliable, which reduces the likelihood of panel damage and injury. A step-by-step guide will allow you to sheathe the facade of the house with siding, even without construction experience.

Based on the material below, you will learn how to fix the siding to the wall correctly.

For greater clarity, each stage is accompanied by photos, diagrams, drawings and videos.

Please note that these instructions are for installing vinyl siding, which is different from metal siding.

Knife. Who does not know how to cut vinyl siding: vinyl is a soft material, it can be easily cut with a sharp knife. To do this, you need to designate a groove on the panel. Bend and unbend the strip several times. As a result, it will break according to the intended cut.

Electric jigsaw. Used instead of a knife. It gives a more beautiful cut, and also allows you to speed up the process of preparing panels to size.

Drill or perforator. With their help, it is convenient to increase the holes for fastening hardware or punch new ones.

Screwdriver. For screwing fasteners.
Building level. The laser is very easy to use.
Roulette.

Good to know. If you are going to use a grinder to cut siding panels, this is acceptable. However, keep in mind that at high speeds, the sheet cut will begin to heat up and melt. This will cause it to deform. Therefore, use the grinder at low power.

When starting to clad a house with vinyl siding, always keep in mind that this material has a high coefficient of linear expansion. This means that a gap of 5-7 mm must be observed between the starting strips, as well as between rows and strips. And if the installation is carried out at a temperature below -10 ° C (which is generally unacceptable from the point of view of common sense, but it is quite customary for domestic practice), then the gaps should be at least 10 mm.

There must also be a gap between the working surface of the material and the fasteners. Below we will talk about this in more detail.

Vinyl siding should rest at least a couple of hours at outdoor temperature before installation begins.

Under no circumstances should siding be screwed through with a self-tapping screw. This approach to installation can lead to cracking of the sheet of material. But, if such a need arose, to fix the sheet not where the nail holes were punched, you must first drill a hole for the hardware, and only then fix the sheet or additional element.

Despite the fact that fastening siding with self-tapping screws is the most common in domestic practice, you can still use fasteners such as nails and staples.

Installation of vinyl siding - instructions

In general, the installation of vinyl siding can be divided into several stages:

fixing the starting bar;
installation of vertical bars (corners and H-connector);
installation of siding panels;
framing window and door openings with siding;
installation of vinyl siding around the arch;
arrangement of protruding elements;
fastening of finishing strips;
soffit installation;
pediment lining.

Good to know: fastening siding to a metal crate or to a wooden one, or even to the base of the wall surface, always starts from the bottom. This allows each subsequent panel to be placed above the previous one. Thus, additional protection of the surface or insulation from moisture is achieved.

1. Installation of the starting bar (starting strip)

Installation of siding panels always takes place using the starting bar. It is attached around the perimeter of the building (or that part of it that is planned to be sheathed).

The initial bar is closed by a number of panels, so there are no special requirements for it. It can be connected from scraps or a bar of a different color can be used.

The starting bar sets the tone for the whole work. It is better to spend more time leveling it than trying to correct even the smallest slope during the installation work.

Before you begin to fasten it, you need to designate the place of the future fastening.

To do this, drive in a nail (screw in a screw) at the lowest level of the wall.

The distance from the nail to the ground should be equal to the width of the starting bar.

Next, stretch the thread between the nails. Check the correct thread tension using the building level. Next, using chalk, draw a line along the thread between the nails. It will indicate the line of attachment of the starting strip.

The more often you use the level, the more correctly and evenly the installation of the siding will be performed.

However, at least every third row of ordinary strips of siding should be checked for the possibility of deviation from the level.

After that fix the bar.

How to attach vinyl siding to a wall

When installing vinyl elements, fasteners must be properly carried out. Namely, it is important to adhere to the following conditions:

- the distance between two adjacent self-tapping screws should be about 250-300 mm.

It is necessary to twist the hardware or hammer in a nail strictly perpendicular to the plane.

- fasten the screws only in the middle of the nail hole, which has an oval appearance, it is this trick that allows the panel to slide when expanding. The correct way is shown in the figure.

- the self-tapping screw is not fully tightened. A gap of 1 mm must be observed between the surface of the material and the head of the self-tapping screw.

The desired gap is achieved in two ways.

First, you can attach a coin.

Secondly, you can twist it all the way, and then loosen it one turn. There should always be a gap of 5-7 mm between two starting bars located in the neighborhood.

The gap compensates for the linear expansion of the material.

Installation of the strip at the corners is not carried out completely. Since a special corner bar is used to arrange the corner.

Using staples as fasteners, you must also maintain a gap of 1 mm.

Good to know. Some builders recommend immediately installing the starting bar on window and door blocks. However, this should not be done, because the need for it does not always arise. The dimensions of the window are not so ideal that ordinary siding strips during installation turn out to be just at the level of the strip.

2. Fastening of vertical strips - corners and H-connector

2.1 Fastening the planks

The corners are set before the installation of the main strips. It is in them that ordinary panels are wound up.

Mounting a vinyl corner also has its own characteristics:

First, the angle is set to 5-7 mm without touching the ground. When heated, the angle will expand vertically and the gap left will not allow it to deform.

Secondly, it is important to properly fix the screws. As you can see in the figure, the corner is attached starting from the top nail hole. Moreover, the screw is twisted into its upper part. On this self-tapping screw (nail) the whole corner seems to be hanging in the air.

Thus, the material can only expand downwards and to the sides.

The rest and the last self-tapping screw are twisted in the same way as the starting strip - clearly in the middle of the nail hole.

Thirdly, the lower edges of the corner are cut to the width of the starting bar. This avoids deformation of the material when heated.

It will look as shown in the picture.

Separate cases in the technology of installing vinyl siding

The length of the corner bar is up to 4 meters. But you may need to lengthen the corner.

Mount the bottom bar of the corner, then cut off the fasteners on the sides from the top and “put” on the bottom, leaving a gap of 5 mm for compression under the influence of temperature.

The overlap is 20-25 mm.

The figure shows how to lengthen the bar

Good to know:

The joints at the corners and the H-connector must be at the same level. This will make the appearance of the house more harmonious.
The upper bar of the corner is mounted on the lower one, and not vice versa. This will protect the corner from water leakage.

Since the corners of vinyl siding are flexible, they can be used to trim blunt and sharp corners of a building.

For an obtuse angle, the profile must be pressed down, for an acute one, narrowed.

For the inner corner, the procedure will be similar.

Given the cost of the corners, you can save on them if you mount two J-bars in their place. The installation process is shown in the figure.

2.4. H-profile installation

This type of work also does not take much time and effort. It is important to correctly calculate the location of the bar. Fastening is carried out similarly to fastening corners.

the lower bar is mounted first, and then the upper one;
if necessary, lengthening is cut into pieces of 5-7 mm with perforation (to compensate for expansion);
overlap profiles.

Keep in mind, the starter strips must be adjacent to the H-connector, and not vice versa.

Good to know. You can do without installing an H-shaped profile in this case, the siding strips will overlap.

The photo shows how the wall should look before starting the installation of ordinary siding panels.

3. Installation of ordinary siding panels

We’ll make a reservation right away that ordinary panels can be fixed in a circle, or you can trim one wall. From the point of view of siding installation technology, this does not matter.

Installation takes place in several steps:

3.1. The first strip of siding is inserted into the vertical grooves of the angled or H-shaped profile and fixed with a self-tapping screw exactly in the center of the nail holes.

At the same time, hardware is attached from the center of the panel to the edges, towards the vertical slats.

Good to know.
To make it easier to insert the strip, you need to slightly bend it outward.

As already mentioned, the siding panel starts in the outer or inner corners. In the event that you use a budget mounting option, you can equip the inner panel in the ways shown in the figure.

Don't forget to leave room for expansion.

3.2. The siding panel must be lowered to the initial bar and snapped into place. To do this, you need the strip lock to catch on the starting bar. Never "pull out" the panel. Since in this case the radius of the panel will stretch and the locks will be deformed. How to install the siding panel correctly - see the picture.

Good to know.
If, after the lock of the next strip snaps onto the lock of the previous one, the panel can be moved horizontally, then its installation was carried out according to the rules.

3.3. After the panel is installed, it can be fixed with hardware.

3.4. All remaining rows, with the exception of the last one, are performed in the same sequence.

If you need to connect the panels together, and you did not provide an H-profile or you do not like how it looks, you can do it as follows.

First, remove the interlock from the panel.
Secondly, lay two sheets on top of each other.
Thirdly, put the cut off part of the sheet under the lock.

The photo shows what it looks like in practice.

For your information:

Some manufacturers produce panels without locking on the end of the siding sheet.
Panels at the joints are not sealed.
The mounting line can be flat, or it can be offset.

4. Installation of a window siding strip near window and door openings

There are two possible ways of arranging openings relative to the wall surface.

in one plane. In this case, the openings are simply sheathed around the perimeter with J-profiles and the siding panel is already inserted into them.

with slope arrangement. With this arrangement, the panels are installed in the manner indicated in the figure.

In practice, it looks like it is shown in the photo.

Getting the panel into such a design is also not difficult. Because the vinyl is quite flexible, the panel is simply bent slightly and installed into the J-profile.

The main thing here is to properly cut the strip of siding.

Docking ears are holes in the strip of material designed for fastening hardware. They are made with a punch.

5. Installation of vinyl siding around the arch

If the openings in your house end in an arch, this is not a problem for installing plastic siding.

Finishing an arch with vinyl siding differs from finishing a regular opening only in the way the J-bar is installed.

Flexible J-bar greatly simplifies the finishing of arched openings. To do this, notches are made on the profile and the smaller the radius, the more often notches should be made.

The process is clearly shown in the photo.

Installation of siding around protruding objects occurs by cutting the strip and attaching it with an overlap.

7. Installation of finishing strips and the last row of siding panels

It is done like this - first the finishing bar is fixed.

Then the distance from the last ordinary strip is measured from it. This is the value that the last siding panel should correspond to.

The strip is bent horizontally in an arc and wound into the lock and the finish bar.

8. Installation of siding soffit

8.1. With wind bar

If the frontal board is small, it can be closed with a wind bar. To do this, a finishing bar is mounted along the upper edge of the frontal board, and the wind bar is attached so that its upper part is fixed by the finishing profile.

Then a J-profile is attached to the wall and a soffit is installed between it and the wind bar.

In this case, the soffit can be installed in one of the two ways shown in the diagram.

In this way, installation is carried out if the frontal board is wider than the wind bar.

In this case, the outer corner is attached to the edge of the frontal board, and the J-profile on both sides of it at the required distance. A soffit of the desired size is cut out and wound up between one of the parts of the corner and the J-bar.

Similarly, the finishing on the second side.

It is not recommended to mount a dark-colored soffit in this way, since it is highly prone to fading on the frontal bar.

9. Mounting the gable with siding

Installing a gable is no different from installing ordinary siding strips. Produced as follows:

9.1. installation of the starting line. Occurs in full accordance with the rules described above.

Good to know:
You can use all the remnants of the J-profile that you have accumulated during your work to finish the pediment. It is not visible under the roofing material anyway.

This work is done as shown in the photo.

To do this, the J-strips must be laid on top of each other and cut diagonally on the front. Let's not forget the gap.

9.5. Plank preparation.

In order to cut off the siding strip correctly, you need to measure the angle of inclination of the roof slope.

This can be done using a simple technique: put a piece of a strip of material to the surface of the pediment, and the whole panel is level with the J-profile.

Then you need to draw a sharpened pencil over the overlap of the sheets. The result will be an accurate angle of inclination. Next, you should remove a short piece and cut off the siding along the line.

The process is more clearly shown in the drawing above.

Cut the corner of the last siding panel and bring it into the J-profile.

This is an exceptional case in the installation of vinyl siding, in which the hardware or nail hits the panel through and through.

Installation of vinyl siding - video instruction

Conclusion

In this article, we tried to reveal all the features of installing vinyl siding. We hope now you know how to mount facade siding with your own hands, as well as components for it.

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