The costs of housing and communal services are growing several times a year, so it is logical to think about the possibilities of saving energy resources. You can use less water with simple savers that slide directly onto the faucet. These devices are sold in plumbing stores and online stores, and are mainly produced in China. However, you can make a do-it-yourself aerator to save water. Let's take a look at how this device works and if it really helps keep costs down.
How does it work
The saver is a simple device that is a water spray. According to the manufacturers, it mixes water with air, which gives a higher head without having to open the tap. There are two types of such devices:
- screen with disk;
- slotted.
A screen aerator is installed in almost every new faucet; it is nothing more than a regular mesh. It consists of a body, into which a brass membrane (aka a screen) is inserted, then a disc with holes and an adjusting washer are located. Such a device is inserted directly into the tap, it is not noticeable to the naked eye, as it is hidden inside.
Slotted economies are hung on the faucet itself or the mixer, therefore it is not very convenient to use them if the distance from the sink to the faucet is short. The structure of the device is also quite simple. A water jet diluent with holes is inserted into the outer body, then an element for adjusting the angle of the jet, the base of the aerator and the slotted disc itself.
Additional features
In addition to the fact that the economist allows, according to manufacturers, to reduce water costs by up to 60%, it is endowed with other abilities. Most often, advertisements claim that the flowing stream is disinfected with ions, filtered and enriched with valuable properties. However, the nozzle is made of low-grade metal, which is not able to make the water either cleaner or healthier. It also contains plastic particles, the healing properties of which have not been scientifically proven either.
However, the device also has one pleasant nuance: by displacing the slotted aerator, you can make a regular stream or spray.
The device can be in two positions alternately, so washing dishes or brushing your teeth will be doubly more fun. There are also more expensive backlit options. The water will be red or blue, depending on whether it is hot or cold. However, this function of the aerator is not affected in any way.
How to do it yourself
You can buy an aerator for about 800-1300 rubles. However, its design is quite simple, so it will be quite easy to make a water saver with your own hands. For this we need the following materials:
We unscrew the nozzle and remove the brass grate from it. A plastic gasket will be installed in its place. If you managed to find just a piece of plastic, you need to carefully cut it out, observing the dimensions of the previous lattice, then draw the mesh and make holes.
After the replacement of the elements is done, we assemble the nozzle again and attach it to the crane. Such a device will perform the same functions as a store aerator, but, unlike it, will really help save money.
The advantages of doing it yourself
A store aerator is expensive, but its real price is about 50-100 rubles, depending on the design. However, manufacturers promise that their know-how pays off in just a couple of months or even one. This is a false statement, which we will now prove.
Attention! All calculations are approximate and may differ from actual figures.
The average cost of the aerator is 1,300 rubles. We take 2 pieces, since we are immediately offered to buy nozzles for all the taps in the house, it turns out 2600 rubles. If the price of 1 cubic meter of cold water is 30 rubles, then you need to use as many as 86 cubic meters per month to get the cost of the nozzles. For a more detailed understanding of this figure, let's translate it into the number of full baths. One standard bath contains approximately 200 liters of water, 430 baths are obtained per month, this is 14 pieces per day or every half hour a day.
With such simple calculations, it is clear that it will be unrealistic to "beat off" the cost of economists in one or even two months. Therefore, if you want to save money, you can make your own aerator.
Imaginary benefit
Water cutters in no way help to really save money, since they are not able to change the composition of the water. All the miraculous properties that advertisers have endowed with such devices are speculation. In addition, it should be borne in mind that the main water consumption of an average family is to use a shower and a cistern, bathrooms are rarely recruited. Economists cannot be physically installed on these plumbing elements, therefore, in theory, they are able to reduce the costs of not all the water used, but only that that passes through the nozzles.
To reduce water consumption on a principle similar to aerators, you need to do one simple thing - reduce the pressure in the tap. It has been proven that this method of reducing water use does not negatively impact household tasks such as washing dishes or showering.
Let's summarize
The Chinese market offers us water saving aerators that can be made at home without much time and money. If you want to test the theory of reducing water use, it is better to make the device yourself. It will clearly show that the cost of housing and utilities can be reduced only through rational consumption.
Making homemade mixers
To create homemade mixers, you need valves, pipe cuttings, squeegees, a shower net. If we compare home-made mixers (rice, 68, 69), with factory standard ones, then the former, of course, are larger and rougher. The coating on them is colorful. If the pipes are galvanized, then no anti-corrosion layer is needed at all. Homemade faucets like this are not for comfort bathrooms.
Rice. 68. Homemade shower faucet with stationary shower tube and mesh:
1 - pipe; 2 - valve; 3 - squeegee or barrel; 4 - tee; 5 - shower mesh; 6 - shower tube
Rice. 69. Homemade bath and shower mixer with stationary shower pipe and spout:
1 - shower tube; 2 - valve; 3 - squeegee or barrel; 4-cross; 5 - spout
Rice. 70. Homemade shower nets:
a- by the type of garden watering can diffuser: 1 - clamp; 2 - shower tube; 3 - diffuser tube; 4 - diffuser mesh; 5 - cone; 6 - nut; 7 - washer; 8 - bolt; 9 - rubber strip
b- from tin cans or one can: 1 - shower tube; 2 - lock nut; 3 - washer; 4 - rubber gasket; 5 - a bank without a bottom; 6 - perforated bottom
v- from the sawing part of the factory flexible hose: 1 - shower tube; 2 - clutch; 3 - branch pipe.
However, when they are sometimes installed in the kitchen or bathroom with a centralized supply of hot and cold water, the question arises, why add a couple more valves, if at the entrance to the apartment or individual house there is already a valve for each "grade" of water. Alas, without valves, which form the simplest mixer (Fig. 68), it is impossible. Their absence will cause the so-called "pumping": hot water will fall into cold water. Neighboring apartments, the nearest small houses will receive lukewarm water instead of hot.
In a complicated mixer (Fig. 69), the lower valve that takes water into a bath or sink is completely replaceable with a tap (Fig. 73).
However, an intermediate piece is needed - a square, into which we will screw the tap (Fig. 74).
Pay particular attention to the difference between tap and valve (fig. 75).
The valve has only one external thread for connection through a coupling or elbow to the pipe. The valve body has two internal threads for screwing in pipes. When one pipe is screwed in, the functions of the tap and the valve coincide. But only the tap turns the stream of water, and only the valve is placed between the two pipes.
Numbers and an arrow are cast on each valve body. The number 20, for example, means the diameter of the free space that remains for the passage of water after the pipe is screwed into the body.
The arrow on the body must "look" in the direction of the water movement. If the valve is mounted on pipes contrary to the direction of the arrow, then large hydraulic resistances arise. They get in the way by lowering the water pressure. This is very noticeable on the upper floors of houses during peak water drawdowns, and in the garden area - during watering, etc.
However, they sometimes "forget" to cast an arrow on the valve body. What to do? They look into the ends of the valve body, where pipes will be screwed in later. Water must enter through the pipe to the end where the valve, rubber gasket and nut are not visible. To make these details more noticeable, the flywheel is screwed in or out of the stem a little.
A garden watering head diffuser is suitable as a shower net in a mixer. The lack of a garden watering can is not a problem. The diffuser is made of large tin cans. Its parts (Fig. 70a) are connected with a special seam, called in the roofing business "recumbent seam". The seam is soldered or painted over with oil paint, which prevents leaks and provides sufficient head in multiple holes.
Streams of water from the seam, fountaining into the ceiling under strong water pressure, will also not delight any shower owners.
Two or three notches on the diffuser tube, before rolling, are made on the side that is not soldered. It is preferable to make cuts with roofing scissors or, in extreme cases, large tailors. Using other types of scissors will dull them. The chisel perfectly cuts through the tin on the board, but this is too time-consuming technology for the production of the diffuser.
The end of the shower tube is wrapped with a strip of thin rubber. The diffuser tube is put on with cuts on the prepared end of the shower tube. The clamp tightens the incisions, securing the diffuser to the shower tube. The water pressure will no longer rip off the diffuser.
Two cans are also the “starting product” for the shower net (Fig. 70b). Although the shower mesh from one can has a more attractive look: the soldering is more invisible.
The design of the shower mesh begins with cutting out the lid when you open the can. A hole in the center of the lid is cut out such that the end of the shower tube fits into it with some difficulty. This hole is not easy to cut. Numerous holes punched with a nail, metal-handled screwdriver or chisel along the marked contour will speed up the work. It is clear that the jumpers between the nail holes are removed with a chisel or a screwdriver blade.
Use washers, gaskets and locknuts to secure the cover to the end of the shower tube. Holes that form a mesh are punched in the bottom of the remaining suit of a can with walls or in a second can. Operations for "organizing" the grid will be more convenient if a tin can is planted on a log. Then hammer the outer side of the bottom with a nail and a hammer.
The disadvantage of the design of the shower net from cans is that to connect its parts, you need to unscrew the shower tube from the mixer. Do not solder by weight and at height ?!
It is not necessary to “invent” a shower net if there are parts from a flexible hose of a long-standing factory production (Fig. 70c) plus a branch pipe and a union nut from a standard mixer. It is important that the threads of the branch pipe and the coupling match, and the union nut is screwed onto the corresponding thread of the special nut. If this does not happen, then either they are looking for a branch pipe and a union nut with "related" threads, or they grind parts with the required thread on a lathe.
Figure 71 shows one of the simplest domestic mixers that were produced in past years. "Meeting" and mixing of cold and hot water takes place in a chrome-plated brass tube. The outflow of the mixture is through the soldered nipple. The ends of the mixer through rubber tubes quickly come into contact with taps, fillings of various shapes, etc. It is convenient to mount such a mixer, for example, between a tap on a hot water pipe of an instantaneous gas water heater and a tap on a cold water pipe.
This mixer, suspended above the washbasin, does not "ask for" any extras. But above the sink, a suitable rubber tube is pulled over his nipple, which is moved as needed. When the sink is two-chamber, you simply cannot do without such an additional rubber tube, because the nipple is stationary. This was provided by the designers. There are sinks, on the shelves of which they are mounted on a mixer and on a brush on a flexible hose. Hot water flows through a hose to the brush. A similar hose with a shower net and a holder is included in the set of the described mixer (Fig. 71). This hose is especially suitable when the mixer is above the bathtub, drip tray, etc.
The mixer has disadvantages due to the simplicity of its design. To prevent cracks on the thin-walled hose, it is replaced with a “rubber pressure hose with thread reinforcement ...” or “rubber hose for gas welding and metal cutting”.
Rice. 71. The simplest universal-purpose factory mixer:
1 - edge; 2 - rubber tube; 3 - mixer; 4 - special plastic nut; 5 - rubber washer; 6 - case; 7- mesh; 8 - a crown; 9 - skeleton; 10 - hose; 11 - metal special nut; 12 - nipple
To prevent rubber tubes from jumping off the ends of the mixer when it is under water pressure, they are pulled together with clamps or tied with thin copper wire or strong threads. A similar mixer is not difficult to make. You can replace the brass tube with a rubber tube with a hole in the middle. However, it will be more difficult to “cement” the shower tube or hose.
An ingeniously crafted factory holder. The rubber washer is inserted into a plastic housing with an internal thread. This washer is locked by a plastic special nut, which has a hexagon in the center for screwing in and out (Fig. 71, item 4). The holder is fixed to the nipple of the mixer thanks to a 5–8 mm hole in the rubber washer. The diameter of the hole in the washer is two millimeters less than the outer diameter of the nipple. The main advantage of the holder is the speed of taking off and putting on, and, in general, the connection of the hose.
The holder is independently turned on a lathe. The internal hex on the snap nut is not needed. It will be completely replaced by a protrusion with two flats for a conventional wrench (Fig. 71, item 11). The option without a holder is also quite possible. It will be replaced by a tubular tee welded from metal tubes or welded from plastic ones. The diameters of the tee pipes are selected according to the available rubber pipes.
Water taps
Desktop crane repair
Tabletop water-folding faucets (GOST 20275-74) include a KTN15 ZhD toilet tabletop faucet with a rigidly fixed spout (Fig. 72a). The lower part of the housing branch pipe has four protrusions, evenly spaced around the circumference just above the thread. With these protrusions, the tap is fixed against turning in the rectangular opening of the sink or washbasin.
Rice. 72. Desktop toilet taps:
a-KTN15ZhD; b- KVN15D;
1 - squeeze; 2 - lock nut; 3 - seal; 4 - short sleeve; 5 - keg; 6 - long sleeve; 7 - metal washer; 8 - nut; 9 - rubber washer; 10 - washbasin shelf; 11 - valve body; 12 - valve head; 13 - spout; 14 - union nut; 15 - plastic ring; 16 - rubber ring
Sinks are not applicable here, because they do not have a shelf for installing a tap.
The gap between the rectangular opening in the shelf and the valve body is not easy to close. If this is not done, then water will flow down the supply pipe when using the tap. The trouble will be not only in the appearance of rust on the pipeline and puddles on the floor.
A wet pipeline will arouse suspicion in an inexperienced owner. Having blocked the access of water to the pipeline, some begin to unscrew it.
This is a flawed technique for finding the root cause of a water leak. Two rubber washers 9, available in the valve kit, when installing the latter, install so as to exclude gaps between the valve body and the quadrangular opening of the shelf 10 ... If standard washers after tightening the lock nut 2 do not block the gaps, then the washers should be cut from a sheet of rubber of the required thickness and elasticity.
Clearances arise during the operation of the crane for several reasons: drying out of the rubber, displacement of the pipeline, weak initial tightening of the lock nut. The use of putty, plasticine on dry surfaces is the fastest elimination of gaps. Cement is also good. After drying, it is covered with oil paint.
The shelf itself rarely takes a horizontal position. Here we are talking about one shelf without a washbasin, for the latter may be with some marriage. The roller on the edges of the shelf must not allow water to pass under the washbasin. Otherwise, you can putty for windows to grease the gap between the vertical rear side of the shelf and the wall to which the washbasin adjoins.
Water enters the shelf of the washbasin in different ways: splashes, leaks from under the gland sleeve and, finally, trickles from under the union nut of the spout on taps of other modifications. The cause of the leak is established after wiping the valve dry and opening the valve head by the handwheel.
Tightening the stuffing box sleeve usually removes the trickle from under it. Worn rubber rings 16 outpouring 13 replace. In the absence of new rubber rings, strands of thread seal are wound on the old ones. 17 , tighten the union nut 14 ... After such a repair, the spout must not be rotated, as the seal will be broken.
Foreign-made ceramic washbasins often do not have holes or holes in the shelves. Consequently, a mixer or tabletop faucet cannot be inserted into the shelf. Output: using a wall mixer or tap. But you can very carefully punch the desired hole in the shelf. To do this, turn the washbasin over and put it on a plane so that it does not swing. The shape of the hole on the back of the shelf is outlined. First, carefully knock off a thin layer of glaze with a sharp narrow chisel. Then the deepening is gradually made. You can also drill holes with a carbide drill using an electric drill. It is clear that the second and third holes need to be drilled even more carefully than the first.
Holes weaken the shelf. Before starting such work, try to do it on a piece of earthenware, on a broken washbasin breakdown, a flush cistern that has served its life, etc. Even experienced plumbers sometimes get a large hole with very uneven edges. Faience comes in different hardness and plasticity. The gaskets and washers available in the valve kit will not block such a hole. Therefore, it is advisable to cut plates with holes from a sheet of aluminum or corrosion-resistant steel and, accordingly, rubber gaskets to them (one plate and one gasket on each side of the shelf). The hole will be completely closed when the plates and gaskets are pulled together with the locknut on the valve body.
Installing or replacing the case 11 the faucet, as a rule, is made with the washbasin removed from the brackets. For this, the connector of the inlet pipe must be located below the bottom of the washbasin or sink. Otherwise, the angle of rotation of the lever or wrench will be limited by the vertical wall of the device and the wall of the room.
Use a squeegee for the connector 1 , that is, a short piece of pipe with an inner diameter of 15 mm and a length of 110 mm. Both ends of the squeegee have a GI / 2 thread. The thread length is longer on one side. The clutch is completely screwed onto it. 4 and lock nut 2 .
There are several more modifications of desktop cranes: for KTN10D, a 3/8 "inlet pipe is screwed directly into the body; KVN15D and KTN15D are equipped with a swivel spout, like the KT15D toilet wall tap.
It is attached to the body with a union nut. Sealing is ensured by a rubber ring between the spout and the neck of the body. The ring fits partially into a circular groove in the bottom of the spout. The second groove is located higher. It includes a plastic expanding ring 15 y preventing spout from jumping out of the union nut 14 with high water pressure. If the plastic ring is broken, it can be made from copper wire. Rubber rings are sold. You can cut similar from a suitable rubber tube.
Cranes KVN15D and KTN15AD have aerators on the outlet part of the spout. They are periodically clogged by foreign particles contained in the water. The jet weakens completely. Then unscrew the outer ring of the aerator. Take out the mesh. Blow and rinse in the opposite direction to the spout.
Wall crane repair
These include brass specks KB15 (Fig. 73) and KB20, installed through the coupling 2 on pipes with a nominal internal diameter of 15 or 20 mm, that is, on pipes 1/2 "and 3/4". The KV15SD crane has a flow straightener and a protective and decorative coating. It is twice as expensive as the KV15 crane, and the KV15AD crane has an aerator and a protective and decorative coating.
Fig. 73. Wall-mounted water-folding tap KV15:
1 - pipe; 2 - clutch; 3 - seal; 4 - sink back; 5 - valve body; 6 - gasket; 7 - crane head
Cranes can be installed anywhere. They are especially convenient on a garden or personal plot. If there is no plug or plug, you can also use a tap.
Specially for these taps, PC-type sinks are produced: RS-1 - with one hole in the back, RS-2 - with two holes. In general, the sink kit includes the backrest and the sink itself with a welded outlet. The set often lacks screws with galvanized heads for fixing the back on the wall. Galvanized screws are rare. Use regular screws, but before installing, coat their heads with white oil paint and let them dry.
A cast-iron siphon-revision is necessary for this type of sinks, because a plastic bottle siphon cannot be fitted here. PC sinks do not have a large hole in the bottom for installing a plastic siphon outlet. The metal outlet welded to the bottom of the sink is inserted directly into the water seal of the cast-iron revision siphon. A gap remains between them, through which water can flow when the sewer pipe is clogged. Therefore, screw a seal strand onto the metal outlet of the sink before lowering it into the siphon water seal. Be sure to soak this strand with resin or oil paint, which will prevent the seal from rotting.
After tightly connecting the outlet and the siphon, coat the joint with cement. To prevent the cement from crumbling, wrap it wet with a strip of gauze or bandage and coat it with liquid cement on top. This will ensure the tightness of the joint for many years.
PCV-1 and RSV-2 sinks differ from PC sinks in that plastic bottle siphons are installed in them. The use of wall-mounted taps with washbasins and sinks is not practical. The fact is that the closer the "nose" of the tap is to the outlet, the less splashing.
The sink outlet is located at a distance of 150 mm from the wall, and the spout of the faucet is at a distance of 90-105 mm. In washbasins and sinks, the outlets are located at a distance of 180–255 mm from the wall. Position the faucet closer to the bottom of the sink or sink to reduce splashing. You can also put a rubber tube on the spout of the tap.
Some push the inlet pipe along with the valve closer to the outlet. Then, for this, use a galvanized pipe, which will slightly brighten up the visible difference between the chrome-plated tap and the outer color of the pipe.
The KT15D wall-mounted toilet tap (Fig. 74) has undergone a number of changes. In the past, his spout was screwed directly into the body, that is, the spout had one stationary position. When trying to turn the spout from the threaded connection with the body, it began to drip. The spout had to be turned out, the threads of the seal were twisted onto the threads and again, with difficulty, it was wrapped in the body.
Rice. 74. Wall-mounted toilet tap KT15D:
1 - pipe; 2 - clutch; 3, 6 - seal; 4 - branch pipe; 5 - valve body; 7 - crane head; 8 - rubber ring; 9 - expanding plastic ring; 10 - union nut; 11 - spout
Now the spout is attached to the valve body with a union nut 10 ... Thanks to the rubber gland ring 8 and expanding plastic ring 9 the spout can be swiveled. The rubber ring prevents the spout from leaking, and the expanding ring prevents the spout from falling out from under the union nut. The plastic expansion ring sometimes breaks. Replace it with a ring of copper wire, which you can anneal to "soften". Under the rubber ring, when it wears out, wind up, say, threads or buy a new one in the Santekhnika store. You can cut the necessary rings yourself from a suitable rubber tube, but in terms of quality and durability they will be worse than the branded ones.
Water supply pipe 1 with an inner diameter of 15 mm (1/2 ") connected to the valve body 5 (Kr67e) through the coupling 2 ... A branch pipe is preliminarily screwed into the body 4 ... In order not to damage the thread, a cut is made on the protruding part of the branch pipe while the branch pipe is not cut off from the pipe. After separating the branch pipe, the burrs are cleaned on it, the seal is screwed on and, using a steel plate, screwed into the valve body. An old-style pipe wrench fixed arm handle with a multi-millimeter steel plate handle can be used in place of the plate.
In the KT15D crane, the connection of the body with the supply pipe is simplified. The branch pipe and the body are combined, and only a coupling is required for joining.
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From the book Great Fishing Encyclopedia. Volume 1 author Shaganov Anton2.1.1. Repair and manufacture of clothes Clothing care. Clothes must be shaken out and aired and dried in the sun every day, and torn places must be repaired in a timely manner. Torn clothes can be sewn up using scrap materials or glued using
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After the creation of a wood heating system, which consists of a stove with two heat exchangers, a heat storage tank and an expansion tank, it was decided to automate the operation of the system. The system can be automated using room thermostats and motorized ball valves. The price of shop cranes with drives kills on the spot - 2-2.5 thousand UAH for 3/4 or 1 inch of faucets. The idea of creating an electric actuator for existing ball valves on the system has been walking in my head for a long time. And so I started to create, and even tried to modernize. But so far, the modernization has failed. I am spreading the first working version of the drive for the 1 "crane.
The main part of the electric drive is the motor-gearbox of the car window regulator 1117, 1118, 1119, 2123 left LSA.
Auxiliary parts for the drive, which also need to be purchased, are two 5-contact 12-volt automotive relays, 2 automotive limit switches, clamps for a pipe, 3/4 in diameter. A pair of М8х45 bolts and nuts. The rest is small things that will be visible in the photo during the assembly process.
So, we are starting to manufacture the frame-frame for the drive and the mechanism that transfers rotation to the ball valve stem. The mechanism must have a break so that the crane can be operated manually. The frame is made of 1 mm thick sheet metal. We attach the window regulator motor to the frame through homemade bushings from a tube of 10 mm in diameter. We attach the frame to the pipe on which the ball valve is installed through bolts and clamps. We get just such a structure
Next, we make parts for the transmission mechanism. By the way, the length of the bolts to the clamps took into account the dimensions of the future parts of the transmission mechanism. Parts from 10x10 square tube, 1/2 ”tube and 4mm metal strip. Also included was a 10 mm washer and a spring of a suitable size. Made with a grinder, engraver, drill, file and welding!
We collect in a heap and get the construction -
The mechanism has an engagement that can be removed by clicking on the parts like this -
The mechanism works. Now you need to install these limit switches with the ability to adjust their position. To do this, we make fasteners for end switches from plastic.
When I tried to turn on the motor with such limit switches, problems arose - the limit switch lost contact, then the contact resumed again, sparks on the limit switch, the motor twitched in place. This will not work, it was decided to install microswitches that click when opened. Mikriki in one word. We buy mikriki and start fixing them.
--- added: 11 ber 2016 at 23:34 ---
Mikrik 3 amperes and mounts mikrik are visible in the photo
I also drew up an electrical diagram for connecting parts.
We fix the mikriki in place, we assemble the drive according to the electrical diagram.
The drive has two output connection pads - power supply unit - power supply unit and T - thermostat (you can use a room thermostat, or you can just a water heating thermostat).
For now, instead of a thermostat, I will use a conventional toggle switch that opens or closes the contact, while the drive either closes the tap or opens it.
I mount the drive on an already installed crane 1 "
I connect a homemade 12 volt power supply and test it - everything works. And in manual mode too. I'm filming a video. The actuator closes very quickly - 1 sec. This is his disadvantage. It has enough power to close the 1 "tap. Watch the video.
I already found the housing for the drive, but did not have time to install it, since I came up with a drive with a different geared motor. To test another motor, I disassembled this drive AND used the existing frame. But more on that later. And therefore, for now, there is a photo with the nickname with the disassembled parts of the above-described drive, and on the bed there is another drive.
--- added: 11 ber 2016 at 23:35 ---
I want to note - the cost of parts for the above-described drive is about 400 UAH! Unlike ready-made store cranes with drives that cost UAH 2000-2500 there is a tangible difference!
Almost everyone knows the situation: because of a damaged mixer or a bursting flexible hose, you need to spend a lot of money on repairs both in your apartment and in your neighbors flooded with water. As a result, it was necessary to turn off the ball valves in a timely manner, which are now usually equipped with water supply in our apartments.
I want to tell you about a simple mechanical system that I have invented that will automatically turn off the taps at the first sign of a leak and save the apartment from flooding.
Principle of operation. Outwardly, the device for automatically turning off the water is somewhat reminiscent of a mousetrap. A spring is fixed on its wooden base, held in a stretched (cocked) position by a paper tape connected to the spring through an angled lever (photo 1). When wet, the tape breaks under the action of the spring, the spring is compressed and pulls the cable, which closes the ball valve.
The system is easy and quick to install, and even easier to dismantle. The "mousetrap" itself is installed on the floor in secluded places (in the basement of the sink cabinet or under the bathroom).
The system allows you to turn off the water manually. The handle, fixed on the ball valve, is turned to the side, and the cables remain stationary.
Manufacturing. To do this, you will need a common tool: a vice, a hammer, an electric drill, a grinder or a hacksaw for metal, a sharpener, a screwdriver, pliers.
Of the materials required: small pieces of sheet stainless steel and ordinary steel, a spring, cables, a wooden block, screws, nuts, screws, a piece of paper, pushpins.
I bought the door spring from a hardware store. I cut a strip of stainless steel from the wall of the tank of an old washing machine. I bought the cables at the Moto-Velo store, removed the excess braiding from them on a sharpening machine, and processed the cables themselves with lubricant for household needs.
The base of the device is made of a painted wooden block with dimensions 360x50x30 mm. One end of the bar should be cut at an angle of 93 ° to the top edge.
In fig. 1 shows the sweep of the metal parts of the system (fold lines are shown in red).
I cut out details No. 1 and 1a from steel sheet 4 mm thick, 16 from sheet 3 mm thick. These parts are attached to ball valves instead of standard handles (photo 2).
Parts No. 2 and 2a (brackets) are installed on the pipe near the ball valve, they serve to fix the cables (photo 3, 9). It should be borne in mind that the brackets can only be screwed onto a metal pipe.
Part No. 3 also holds the cable, but only fixes it to the wooden base of the product. To shape this piece, I used a 150x20x50mm oak block as a template. Having bent the workpiece according to the template, I pulled out the block, and made cutouts on the parts with a grinder for attaching the cable.
Part No. 3 (photo 4, 5) should be made of stainless steel, but for a sample it is better to make it out of cardboard first.
Moving part No. 4 (corner arm) is connected to a spring and a cable on one side, and a paper tape is attached to it on the other. This lever is also made of stainless steel. If the holding paper tape breaks, that part of the lever that is bent at an angle of 93 ° slides off the end of the wooden base, is pulled by the spring through part No. 3 and sets the cable in motion (it is attached to part No. 4 using parts No. 4a and 46). And thanks to the angular lever, the load on the paper tape created by the spring is reduced by about 10 times (photo 6,7).
Part No. 5 (hook) is used to hook the spring - for this, the narrow tail of the part must be bent. In part No. 5, two holes are drilled: the first is for cocking (by sticking a finger into it, it is easier to tighten the spring), the second is for fixing it on the bar. Any screw screwed into the bar can serve as a hook. For this purpose, I used a hook that was sold with a door spring.
Installation, adjustment and service. The ball valve and the mousetrap can even be located in different rooms. One crane can be connected to cables from two "mousetraps" installed in different rooms. The system will react when one of them is triggered.
The cables should have no more than one bend at an angle of 90 ° and a length of no more than 2 m.
Ball valves made by powder metallurgy are on the market, with which there can be many problems - their bodies often crack. Such taps cannot be used at all, especially in my system, where they overlap automatically. I myself only use brass taps. In addition, to prevent the taps from sticking, they need to be closed and opened once a month, otherwise, over time, they begin to close very tightly.
When setting up and adjusting the system, I used a device made from a piece of pipe (a little over 20 cm long) with a ball valve screwed onto it. On this device, it is easy to check the operation of the entire mechanism before installing it in the apartment. It will also come in handy when drilling holes for joining parts # 2 and 2a. To do this, you need to clamp these parts in a vice with a pipe previously inserted between them. After that, you can drill holes in two parts at once.
The blank for the base of the device can be taken longer than indicated, and after adjustment, the excess part of the bar can be cut off. In many ways, the length of the bar will depend on the length and elasticity of the selected spring. In the extended state, the spring force should be about 10 kg, at the end of operation - 4.5 kg. A constant force from 1 to 1.5 kg must act on the paper tape (another value can be envisaged, but then the angle of 93 ° will have to be changed). I used a household spring scale to measure the force.
I tested the mechanism in the bathroom. When I wetted the paper tape, everything worked as expected - the ball valve was automatically closed.
After the mechanism is triggered, it must be wiped with a napkin and only then refilled with fresh tape.
Today I want to tell you about how you can make a homemade water faucet ...
To begin with, I bring to your attention a video of our homemade product:
In this article, I want to tell you how you can make a homemade water tap at home without making any special efforts with the help of improvised means ... This device can be used in the country or in the garage ... for example, wash your hands or rinse out some small container ...
So, let's begin...
In order to make this water faucet we need the following:
- canister or unnecessary container (preferably at least 5 liters);
- a small piece of hose;
- syringe;
- drill and drill ...
So, first, carefully cut off the top of the syringe as shown in the photo ...
Then, using a drill and a small drill, we make 3-4 holes along the entire syringe ...
Now, also with the help of a drill and drills, we make a hole at the bottom of our canister or other container of your choice ... The hole in diameter should match the diameter of the hose ... Next, carefully insert a piece of the hose into the hole in the canister ... Make sure that everything is hermetically ...
Now we insert a syringe into the hose and also make sure that everything is sealed ...
Well, that's the principle and that's it! Our device is ready !!! Now we pour water into the canister, substitute the bowl and see what we have done ...
With a piston in the syringe, we regulate the water supply: if you pull out the piston slightly, then water will flow from one hole ...
If you pull it a little more, then water will come from two holes at the same time ...
And so, as you push out the syringe plunger, you will regulate the water supply, that is, if "push the piston back in", then the water will stop "going" at all ...