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Split systems provide coolness in the hot season, normalize the microclimate and purify the air. The high cost of installation work encourages you to do the connection of climate technology yourself. Do-it-yourself sequential installation of a powerful air conditioner is possible only if you follow the step-by-step instructions and standards.
Location selection
The presence of two or more blocks of climatic equipment provides for the choice of a place for each of them. Before starting installation work, accompanying documentation will be required.
Do I need a permit to install an air conditioner?
Structurally, the air conditioner is a system with an indoor and outdoor unit, which is mounted on the facade.
Multi-storey building, on the basis of art. 246 of the Civil Code is common property with the right to dispose of all owners. Installation of equipment without approval is a violation:
- the device makes noise, buzzes, disturbing the peace of neighbors;
- condensate can damage the facade of the building or get onto the balcony from below;
- the overall block blocks the view or view and windows;
- there are risks of cracking walls, short circuit wiring and fire.
Based on paragraph 1 of Art. 25 LCD installation of a split system is considered as a reconstruction or re-equipment of the premises. Clause 3.5.8 of Decree No. 170 informs about the prevention of installing an air conditioner without permission from the management company and neighbors. Consent or refusal can be obtained only after a meeting of the tenants of the house.
Important! Residents of private homes can start installation immediately after purchasing the device.
Permission is required if:
- installation work is carried out on the front of the high-rise building;
- the user lives in a house of value in terms of history and culture;
- split system is located above the footpaths;
- there are no special fences on the window opening where the unit is located.
Choosing a place for the indoor unit
Installation of the internal module of the air conditioner is carried out by hand so that cold air flows do not cause discomfort. It is allowed to be placed above the head of the sofa, on the side and behind the workplace. Building codes define the order of location of the indoor unit:
- from the structure to the ceiling - not less than 15 cm;
- from the module to the right or left wall - not less than 30 cm;
- from the block to the floor - 280 cm, but for apartments on the ground floor, the outdoor unit is mounted at the same level or lower than the indoor one;
- from an obstacle to the movement of air flows - not less than 150 cm;
Where to locate the outdoor unit?
The outdoor module is located near the window opening or on an open loggia. If the balcony is glazed, the block is placed on a fence with good bearing capacity or on the facade. Residents of floors 1-2 need to determine a place for the outdoor module as far as possible from passers-by. On the 3rd or more floors, it is allowed to place the device under a window or on the side.
In a private house, the outdoor unit is placed on a wall with a high bearing capacity. On ventilated facades, a special fastening is organized or the block is placed on the plinth.
Determining the distance between blocks
The maximum length of the inter-module route is 6 m, if it is exceeded, additional freon injection will be required. If the outdoor and indoor module are placed at a distance of 1 m, the route should not exceed 5 m. The surplus of the system is formed into a ring and placed behind the block.
Interesting to know! Manufacturers specify different maximum distance between blocks. For Daikin equipment, it is 1.5-2.5 m, for Panasonic - 3 m.
What you need to install
The consistent installation of a good split system when doing it yourself should be carried out taking into account ease of access for maintenance and ergonomic criteria - cold air should not have direct access to recreation and work areas.
Approximate layout of split systems
The suitable scheme for installing a new air conditioner depends on the type of unit. The indoor module can be hung:
- to the left of the outside. The track is flat, the block is 0.5 m from the wall. When the line turns to the adjacent wall, the distance can be reduced to 0.1 m. The output and the route are masked under the equipment cover;
- to the left of the outer wall without laying cables on the facade. Communications are laid in the corner of the room and hidden in the box. He is hidden under a curtain;
- to the right of the outer wall. A typical solution with laying the track in a box with a wall or laying in a strobe.
The outdoor unit can be placed:
- on the loggia or balcony. The module is fixed in a frontal or lateral way for ease of maintenance;
- on the glazed balcony. The window sash must be above the air conditioner. To prevent snow, moisture or debris from getting on the block, a visor and plastic are installed;
- under window. The option is suitable for rooms without a balcony;
- next to the window. The block is placed at the level of the lower part of the window.
Air conditioner installation options
Advice! Do not use hollow or metal materials for the visor - they have low sound insulation.
Equipment
For self-installation of climate control equipment, you will need:
- perforator for making through holes for the output of pipes, cables, drainage pipes;
- a pipe cutter with a sharp blade or a hacksaw;
- file and rimmer for trimming notches;
- pipe bender or special spring for forming copper pipes;
- a drill with drills of various diameters to make holes for the mounting plates;
- pipe calibrator and flaring machine;
- wall chaser, which can be replaced with a chisel, sledgehammer and hammer;
- vacuum pump to start the air conditioning system;
- screwdrivers, hex keys, level.
Materials and consumables
Use only high-quality materials, selecting them in accordance with the type of equipment:
- supply wire for power supply and connection of modules - power cable for 4 cores with a cross section of 2 mm2 × 2.5 mm2;
- seamless copper pipes with a diameter specified in the instructions. The length of the products is equal to the length of the track, and the margin is about 30 cm;
- insulating insulation (foamed rubber) - segments along the length of the route;
- synthetic insulation;
- corrugated hose with an internal plastic spiral for drainage or a propylene pipe along the length of the route plus 80 cm;
- L-shaped brackets (2 pcs.) for fixing the outdoor unit with a permissible load limit of 5 times the weight of the device;
- fasteners - bolts, dowels and anchors, selected according to the type of brackets for the indoor module.
Basic rules for installing and connecting an air conditioner
Installation and connection of a domestic air conditioner during do-it-yourself work requires compliance with a number of requirements.
Rules for mounting the outdoor unit
The module is set up as follows:
- Checking a balcony or facade for strength - 2 times more equipment that weighs from 10-15 to 40 kg.
- Inspection of brackets on external insulation - they must be hidden in the wall material.
- Laying a damping seal on a ventilated facade or aerated concrete walls.
- Accounting for equipment noise - the maximum permissible level is from 25 to 30 dB.
- Check for misalignment at every stage of the installation to prevent refrigerant leakage.
- Installation in a windy area with a canopy for protection from the weather.
- Compliance with the line distance of 15-20 cm, if the equipment is located on the roof.
- Connecting the condensate collection pipe to the sewer.
Rules for installing the indoor unit
The second module is installed in the room and the main line is laid:
- Connection to the mains with the organization of an individual line - the energy consumption of the air conditioner is 2 kW.
- Laying the line external (hidden in a box) or internal (hidden in a wall) methods.
- Compliance with the distance between the blocks by a maximum of 6 m for efficient operation of the structure.
- Removal of household appliances, curtains from the device by 3 m.
- Air conditioning is not located above the radiators and furniture.
- Maintaining a distance from the block to the ceiling of 20-25 cm.
Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation
The correct installation of a powerful split system will be done qualitatively with your own hands, if the consistent work instructions are followed.
Mounting the indoor unit
The indoor module or hair dryer is installed immediately. Installation activities include:
- Taking measurements from the device.
- Placing the steel mounting frame on the wall strictly horizontally with a level check.
- Marking the points where the fasteners will be.
- Making holes in the wall with a perforator.
- Fixing plastic dowels with a hammer.
- Attaching the mounting plate to the wall and fixing it with self-tapping screws.
- Hanging the hair dryer on a special plate and checking its horizontalness.
Laying a communication line
Experts advise users who do not know how to properly connect a home air conditioner without making mistakes with their own hands, to start by preparing the main channels.
Electrical connections
High energy consumption of split systems (more than 1.5 kW) provides for the organization of a separate line and the installation of an RCD. For the trunk, a cable with a cross section of 1.5-2 mm2 and circuit breakers are used. A yellow cable with a green stripe running along is connected to the neutral (zero) wire of the input shield. Using the indicator, zero and phase are determined. If non-standard wires are used, neutral and phase sections are indicated at both ends.
Air conditioner connection diagram 
Installation scheme
holes
Work is best done together:
- in block houses, the places for laying reinforcement are determined so as not to harm the load-bearing walls;
- the assistant should be at the bottom and report on the installation;
- holes are drilled with a puncher;
- for houses without thermal insulation, the diameter is 50-60 mm, for thermally insulated buildings - at least 80 mm.
After preparing the holes, you need to install the brackets.
Pipelines
For preparation and styling you will need:
- Cut a copper pipe with a margin of 1 m for bends.
- After cutting, carefully bend the product without kinks, observing a maximum radius of 10 cm.
- Put flex thermal insulation on the tubes - polyurethane foam hoses. Foam rubber should not be used due to rapid wear.
- Place special flanges on the end of the pipe with a thread.
- Flare the ends of the tubes.
- Alternately connect the pipeline, cold and hot fittings, checking their diameter.
- Tighten the fitting flange tightly, but not tight.
- Run a drainage channel from a piece of reinforced plastic pipe, connecting it to the drain with a flange or heat-shrinkable pipe.
- Make a soldering by working the soldering iron in a circle.
Outdoor unit installation
The external module of the split system weighs more than 20 kg due to the compressor. Work at height is carried out with the involvement of 1-2 people:
- Markup is organized using a level.
- Holes are made with a perforator, taking into account the thermal insulation of the house.
- Anchor bolts are screwed into the holes.
- The brackets are screwed with a nut to the bolts.
- To reduce vibrations, rubber is placed under the legs of the outdoor module.
- The quality of fasteners is checked and the external module is hung.
Connecting system units
The blocks are connected through the channels in the wall with the cable connected to the terminals, similar to the color of the main wiring. When the difference in the level of the location of the modules is more than 5 m, a special loop is made to trap the oil. With a smaller difference, the loop is not performed.
Drainage
Drainage channels are equipped with a tap to the street or to the sewer. The pipes are connected as follows:
- A corrugation is pulled onto the outlet of the indoor unit (a plastic tube with a tip).
- The connection is fixed with a clamp.
- A hose is put on the outlet of the outdoor unit to remove moisture from the walls.
- When using a polymer pipe, an adapter is selected.
Drainage pipes must be laid with a slope. The maximum is 3 mm * 1 m, the minimum is 1 mm * 1 m.
Freon circulation system
Copper refrigerant pipes are bent with a pipe bender or spring without sharp turns. The connection begins with the indoor unit - nuts are twisted from the ports. As they weaken, a hiss of nitrogen is heard. After its termination, the plugs are removed, the nuts are removed, they are put on the tube and rolling is started.
rolling
After removing the plugs from the tubes:
- The evenness of the edges is checked.
- Notches are smoothed out with sandpaper.
- The cross section is adjusted by the calibrator with the edges aligned by 5 cm.
- The extreme parts are flared for fastening at the inlet and outlet.
- During flaring, the edge of the pipe is directed downwards and fixed with an output of 2 mm.
- The flaring cone is placed on the edge of the pipe, twisted with force.
- Rolling ends when the cone does not go to the edge.
The operation is repeated for all segments.
Port connection
The flared end of the tube is connected to the outlet, the nut is tightened. Sealants and additional gaskets are not used. For a strong fixation, a pressure of 50-70 kg is required so that the copper flattens out and the connection becomes monolithic. Work is being done for all exits.
Leak test
A solution is used for sealing. It will take 0.5 liters of distilled water heated to boiling water. Dissolve 1 tbsp in liquid. l. laundry soap. The exhaust nipple is removed, a bicycle pump is put on the nozzle. When pumping with a brush, the composition is applied, and the thread is tightened until bubbles stop forming and 1/8.
Important! Soap deposits are best removed with a damp cloth.
vacuuming
Vacuuming promotes the removal of moisture, dust, excess air. The system is pumped by a special pump for 60 minutes. During this time, moisture and air residues are completely removed.
Filling and washing
The system is filled from a cylinder with a refrigerant. The tank is connected through a manometer with an adapter. The pressure is built up to the value specified in the manufacturer's documentation. Electrical wires are connected to the terminals - zero to zero or neutral. Phases are connected by color.
Important! Air conditioners with freon are not filled with freon and vice versa.
Testing
The check is done like this:
- The disconnector is switched on.
- The air conditioner enters test mode automatically.
- For some models, the test is activated from the remote control.
- If air is escaping at the end of the test, the louver position is set.
- Thermal shielding is carried out with thin aluminum - this saves 2-3% more electricity.
- The tourniquet and the drainage pipe are wrapped with electrical tape that is resistant to moisture.
At the last stage, the holes in the wall are carefully sealed.
Common mistakes during air conditioner installation
With unprofessional installation, users can make a number of mistakes:
- laying pipes with bends - the load on the compressor increases;
- installation of an outdoor unit on a balcony with glazing - normal air circulation is lost;
- the location of the air conditioner next to the welding machines;
- uneven arrangement of blocks - condensate begins to drain to the floor;
- selection of equipment with no auto-defrost option - in heating mode, the external unit freezes.
For normal operation of the air conditioner, it is necessary to regularly clean the filters and drainage channels. Under excessive load, the system makes noise - the fan balance is disturbed or the bearings wear out. These breakdowns should be eliminated only by the master.
- For split systems, automatic shutdown devices designed for boilers and washing machines are suitable.
- With a strong sagging of the drainage tubes, condensate accumulates.
- If you haven't flared before, practice on an unnecessary piece of pipe.
- Sealing is best done with two people.
- After connecting the pipeline, you need to blow out the holes with mounting foam or fill with silicone sealant.
Watch the video on how to install the air conditioner yourself
installing an air conditioner with your own handsClimatic equipment is installed in advance, before the onset of heat. In some cases, to save money, an air conditioner is installed by hand. The main condition is to strictly adhere to the instructions, to carry out work in the recommended place. Incorrectly selected parts can cause damage to the climate control device.
The principle of operation of the air conditioner, split system
To form a general idea of the organization of the internal device, and before installing the air conditioner, we recommend that you consider the principle of operation of the system. Climatic consists of 2 equivalent blocks - compressor and evaporator. They are connected to each other by special adapters, branch pipes and tubes.
The evaporation unit is installed inside the dwelling, and the compressor unit is installed outside. High-performance and expensive models are equipped with one compressor and several indoor units.
High pressure refrigerant is sent to the evaporator section. Then there is an expansion of freon, its gradual boiling and vaporization. It is this cold vapor that absorbs the heat of the air. The air conditioning system works with the active formation of water condensate, which settles on a special radiator. At the final stage, water is discharged from the building through a special tube.
In the process of operation, the compressor pumps out the evaporation of freon. The pressure inside the unit is increased by a built-in pump. Gradually, under the influence of temperature, the refrigerant changes from a liquid state to a vapor state. A dense "fog" is sent to the condensate chamber for gradual cooling (a small fan is used for this purpose) and transition to a liquid state. Then the circle closes and the process loops.
The efficiency and duration of the functioning of the house, as well as the amount of electricity consumed by the appliance, are determined by the intensity of operation of the unit, the climatic features of the region. If there is a heater in the room near the climate control device, the level of electricity consumed increases, which is fraught with the failure of the device. Even ordinary dust can provoke a breakdown. The room is scheduled for regular wet cleaning.
Couplings and joints require sealing without fail in order to level the likelihood of freon or other refrigerant evaporation. Install the outdoor unit of the air conditioner so that it is level below the inside of the unit. The outdoor unit is located in a dark place, away from sunlight.
Do-it-yourself air conditioning installation: tools - a complete list
Installation of air conditioning systems is a technically complex, responsible, and therefore expensive event. In this matter, all aspects are important - experience, practical skills, theoretical base and the availability of the necessary tool. These factors determine the speed and quality of installation. Let's analyze the feasibility of using the tools that come with the standard installation kit.
Taking into account the scope of their application, they are divided into several functional groups.
power tool
Without a power tool, installing an air conditioner with your own hands is simply impossible. We are not talking about any specialized solutions:
- perforator;
- "Bulgarian";
- drill.
A powerful puncher is chosen so that it can easily make a through hole in the wall through which a line is laid between the indoor and outdoor units. Low-power combined electric drills, where only the function of a hammer drill is provided, are indispensable in this case. They are not able to drill through brickwork.
Before you install the air conditioner yourself, you should make sure that you have all the necessary tools.
For a concrete wall, you will additionally need a grinder to remove metal reinforcement, as well as other consumables - discs, drills, concrete bits.
Measuring tool
Installation of a window air conditioner is carried out with the obligatory control of the horizontal level. You can use markers, marking pencils, building or laser level. You will also need a number of additional equipment. Air conditioners with installation cannot be reliably and efficiently fixed without additional technical means.
Specialized Equipment
Specialized tools are necessary for the high-quality and efficient functioning of climate equipment. Copper pipe soldering tools, industrial type vacuum cleaner and vacuum pump.
- Devices for connecting copper pipes. We are talking about low temperature welding. It is carried out using a special solder and a gas burner. A pipe cutter is used to cut them. It is better to refuse an ordinary hacksaw for cutting metal, since small chips will certainly remain in the line, which is fraught with damage to the climate device. To remove the chamfer, use a rimmer, rolling. The main turns are formed by a pipe bender.
- An industrial vacuum cleaner is used to suck up dust and small debris. Under no circumstances should they fall into the appliance.
- Vacuum pump. The unit dries up the line. If you follow the installation rules, then this procedure is mandatory, without it the efficiency of the air conditioner will be nominal.
The listed equipment for installation is basic. You can not do without additional consumables - pliers, drywall, stepladders, metal scissors, screwdrivers. The exact list is determined by the owner, taking into account specific conditions.
Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation: step by step instructions
Do-it-yourself installation of an air conditioner begins only after the acquisition and preparation of the necessary equipment, tools and climatic equipment. First of all, the outdoor unit is fixed on the outer wall, after which internal work is carried out.
At all stages, it is extremely important to observe safety precautions, especially when it comes to skyscrapers. Installation of the outdoor unit is one of the most important and crucial stages.
Outdoor unit fixing
Installing a window in general, and its outer part, in particular, on the walls of country houses is not accompanied by any difficulties. But in the case of multi-apartment buildings, not everything is so simple, the place is selected with great care. When deciding where to install the air conditioner, pay attention to areas with minimal natural light.
There are several basic rules:
- The outdoor unit should not spoil the view from the window to the neighbors in the apartment.
- A small tube is used to drain condensate.
- The climatic device is placed in such a way that it is within reach, because. equipment requires periodic maintenance.
In 90% of cases, the block is fixed at the north or east side, under the window or at the bottom of the balcony. These are the unwritten rules for installing an air conditioner, which are mandatory among professionals. If they are observed, it will not be difficult to reach the outside of the climate control device.
- The attachment points of the brackets are checked with a building level, and then holes are prepared in the wall. Anchor bolts are used for secure fixation.
- To connect the functional blocks, an 80 mm through hole is made. If possible, it is better to drill a hole between the bricks, along the seam.
According to the previously prepared markings, metal brackets are installed, screwing the bolts as securely as possible. The standard installation of the air conditioner is carried out in such a way that a distance of 10 cm is maintained between the climatic unit and the outer wall. The gaps are closed at the final stage, after connecting the device.
Installing the indoor unit
Do-it-yourself air conditioning installation indoors, where to start? First of all, it is necessary to pay attention to the fact that it is strictly forbidden to mount the indoor unit behind curtains, near electrical appliances, above heaters or batteries - all these devices often cause failure of the block processor.
Before installing the air conditioner, you should carefully check the wall for laying heating, water pipes, and electrical wiring in it.
The fastening of a metal plate from standard components for the installation of air conditioners begins only if the work area is completely free: the distance from the ceiling is from 10 cm, from the corner of the walls - at least 5 cm. Two points are connected with a meter and mark a horizontal line. The indoor unit is mounted on a fixed metal plate.
The next stage in the installation of the air conditioner, or to be more precise, its indoor unit, is the preparation of holes in the wall for connecting communication hoses, electrical wiring, and pipes for draining liquid condensate. The interior space should be sufficient for free placement of all elements in the wall.
Independent installation of the air conditioner is not possible without separate wiring for the indoor unit. For this, wiring with a cross section of at least 1.5 square meters is suitable. mm. It is mandatory to connect a separate machine for the climate control device. Upon completion of the wiring, it is connected to the input of the shield (the indicator can accurately determine the "phase" and "neutral" wire).
The terminals of the outdoor and indoor units are connected to each other with multi-core wiring (it is pushed into the hole prepared in the wall). The installation scheme is clearly described in the instructions that come with each climate control device. When installing air conditioners on your own at home, it is extremely important that the terminals by name match the wires themselves. Otherwise, there is a danger of a short circuit.
Pipe laying instructions
A standard air conditioner installation kit includes several copper pipes. They are carefully cut with a margin of 1 meter for bends. The tubes are prepared with a special tool - a pipe bender, when using it, the metal does not crack, no dents form. Proper preparation includes covering the pipes with polyurethane foam hoses that act as thermal insulation.
Special threaded flanges are put on the ends of the tube. The next stage of installation work is high-quality flaring of copper tubes. This process is carried out extremely carefully in order to eliminate the risk of grooves and microcracks. The nut should fit onto the rolling without any problems. As for tightening, it is performed with a special torque wrench.
Do-it-yourself installation of the air conditioner continues: pipelines are attached to the fittings. It is impossible to confuse anything, because. copper pipes have different cross-sections and diameters. The flanges are securely screwed onto the fittings, while the connection must be extremely tight, but at the same time, the tube should not be pinched or damaged.
At the final stage, the installation of air conditioning systems comes down to connecting a plastic pipe to a reinforced housing. For reliable fastening, use a heat-shrinkable tube from the delivery set. It is better to put a drainage tube at a maximum distance from the base of the wall.
Installation and installation of air conditioners will be incomplete without placing pipes in a special hole made in the wall. There they are carefully and extremely accurately aligned. Outside, the outlet and underwater pipes are fixed with clamps for greater reliability. An electrical wire is placed near them for connection to the outdoor unit.
In the room, the holes are blown out with mounting foam, as an alternative, they are filled with liquid silicone. Installing an air conditioner on a balcony and in a house involves checking the structure for leaks with a soap solution or a bicycle pump. Soap solution is washed with a sponge or cloth. If defects are found, the thread is tightened tighter.
Vacuuming the air exchange system
The correct installation of the air conditioner with your own hands is described above. The owner should be aware that to remove moisture, dust and the smallest particles from the climate device, the system is evacuated. It is performed upon completion of the final and high-quality sealing of the joints, because it is impossible to get rid of the air completely. The air conditioner with the installation is connected to a vacuum pump, air pumping takes about 1 hour.
Freon or other refrigerant is pumped into the system. The tank on the balcony is filled with a pressure gauge or adapter connected, since it is necessary to strictly control the pressure in the system. After preparing the air conditioner, a special automatic disconnector turns on independently, and the system goes into test mode. With uniform and efficient air circulation, the hole in the wall is sealed with mounting foam, followed by decor.
Installation of industrial air conditioners is carried out exclusively by professionals, because these are expensive climatic complexes for the adjustment of which specialized equipment is required. Spare parts are included in the standard package, you do not have to buy anything in addition.
Now you know how to install the air conditioner yourself and in what sequence to perform the corresponding work.
Installing an air conditioner with your own hands: the secrets of professionals
The installation scheme of window air conditioners provides for the possibility of installation in the winter. That's just have to be content with not too comfortable conditions. Water or snow must not get into the line. It is better to install and pump in the refrigerant at positive temperatures outside the window (at sub-zero temperatures, the stuffing box often fails, since it is rubber).
To install air conditioners, it is not at all necessary to evacuate the system. The nut is not completely screwed to the copper tube, then the control valve located at the thick tube opens slightly. Under pressure, the air will be forced out by freon, and it will be necessary to quickly tighten the nut.
This method is incorrect, since the quality and sealing of the system cannot be verified. Installation of industrial air conditioners using this technology is not carried out.
Below is a detailed video instruction, which demonstrates the main stages of installing climate systems with your own hands.
More and more people have recently been thinking about purchasing and installing devices for controlling the microclimate in their homes. In urban areas, especially if the apartment is entirely on the sunny side, air conditioning is the only option to create comfort during the hot summer months. The considerable cost of this useful device makes you want to save money by installing a split system with your own hands. Is this procedure as complicated as air conditioning installation companies assure? And how to install the air conditioner yourself according to all the rules to ensure its uninterrupted operation for the longest possible time?
Types of air conditioners
To create comfortable conditions in apartments, the following types of air conditioners are used:
Monoblock systems
All blocks of the conditioner are located in one case. This reduces the cost of the device, but also leads to certain inconveniences: the bulkiness of the system and the rather high noise from the compressor, not even at full power. They, in turn, are divided into two types:
- Window air conditioners. Pioneers among apartment systems. The main disadvantage: the device block occupies a significant part of the window opening. This prevents sunlight from entering the room, and it is extremely difficult to harmoniously fit its interior. Therefore, air conditioners of this type are becoming rarer.
- . Much more attractive in design than windowed ones. In addition to the tempting possibility of movement, they have one more indisputable advantage: the block practically does not require installation. It is enough just to equip with your own hands the hood from the room to the outside, to which the system is connected. But the cost of such air conditioners is quite high.
Two-block systems
In devices of this type, the refrigerant circulates between the outdoor and indoor units of the air conditioner. The main advantage of such systems is noiselessness. The main "troublemaker" - the compressor, is located behind the wall. Indoor units have different designs and can be placed in the most convenient place. They are divided into 3 varieties:
- Wall split systems. The most affordable and common at present, have a power of 2 to 7 kW. They are perfect for maintaining the desired microclimate: in summer they create coolness, but it is also possible to operate the air conditioner for heating in winter. It is for such systems that the most relevant question is: how to install an air conditioner without resorting to the help of professionals?
- Channel conditioners. They are installed under the false ceiling structure and have a high power - 12–25 kW. This is enough for a fairly spacious apartment. Complicating the task is the need to correctly calculate the air exchange in the room. When installing thermostats and special electric valves, you can set your own temperature for each room in the apartment. Naturally, this complicates the installation of system blocks and significantly increases its cost.
- Cassette air conditioners. The main system is also hidden by a suspended ceiling. Cassette split systems are made so as not to stand out. As a rule, the dimensions of the grille of a cassette air conditioner coincide with the dimensions of the ceiling tiles: 600 by 600 mm, and with a higher power - 600 by 1200 mm. The dimensions of the indoor unit allow you to easily place it and all the necessary communications inside a standard metal profile grate used in the installation of suspended structures.
Preparing to install an air conditioner with your own hands: choosing a place
Since wall-mounted split systems are the most popular, we will describe how to install an air conditioner with our own hands in relation to them.
Choosing the location of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner in an apartment building can cause some difficulties:
- The outdoor unit of the system cools the refrigerant, so it should be located so that, if possible, heat from the sun's rays is avoided. The north or east side of the house or balcony is well suited.
- The massive outdoor unit of the air conditioner should be placed so as not to disturb the neighbors.
- It is unacceptable for condensate from the drainage pipe to flow down the wall of the house. It must be taken out as far as possible.
- Like any device, the outdoor unit of the air conditioner needs periodic maintenance. Therefore, it should be located so that it can be approached without much effort and risk.
When choosing a place for the internal part of the system, there are also a number of conditions:
- It can not be placed near the elements of the heating system.
- It is unacceptable that the inside of the split system is closed by curtains or other objects that prevent the free movement of air.
- The processor of the air conditioner unit may be damaged if it is located in the area of intense electrical noise generated by household appliances. Therefore, for example, it cannot be placed in the kitchen.
Tools
The selection of the necessary tool will also not be easy. For work you will need:
- Pumps: vacuum and bicycle.
- Pipe flaring kit. Better with a pipe cutter. Copper tubes cannot be cut with another tool - sawdust will surely get inside them, which will disable the vacuum pump.
- Reamer for finishing expanded pipes.
- Pressure gauge for measuring pressure in the air conditioning system.
- Indicator screwdriver and tester for mounting the electrical wiring of the units.
- Perforator.
- Bay of copper pipe.
It is better to take a whole bay of tubes, with the ends rolled at the factory. You can never guess with what tool the tube was cut if you buy only a part of the coil. Copper pipes should not have dents, cracks or other defects.
Installation of the external unit of the air conditioner
It should immediately be noted that the outdoor unit of the air conditioner should be located below the indoor one.
- After marking the mounting points of the brackets, a hole is drilled for communications. Of course, in this case, it is necessary to avoid getting the drill into other communications or fittings, so the place for the hole must be chosen carefully. In a brick wall, it is better to lay it along the masonry seam. If the concrete slab has frequent reinforcement, then the only way out is to drill a separate small hole for each wire or tube of the system.
- Brackets are attached to the wall with anchor bolts. You can fix the outdoor unit of the air conditioner directly on the balcony by slightly changing the mounting scheme. But in any case, it is important to maintain the level: at the slightest distortion of the system, there will be problems with the condensate drain.
- The most difficult stage of the operation is the direct installation of the external unit with your own hands. It weighs at least 60 kg, which is why this work must be done by at least two people. It may be necessary to use the help of industrial climbers or special equipment to securely fix the air conditioner to the brackets.
For normal operation of the system, it is necessary to leave a gap of at least 100 mm between the air conditioner case and the wall.
Installation of the indoor unit and necessary communications
Work progress:
- The indoor unit is attached by hand to the mounting plate using a latch system. The plate is securely attached to the wall at a distance of at least 10 cm from the ceiling and at least 5 cm from the corner of the room. Having lifted the inner part together, it is fixed with latches.
- The copper pipes of the air conditioner for the refrigerant supply are cut off with a margin of a meter for the intended bends. The minimum length of these communications is at least 1.5 meters. Carefully bending them, put on the nuts and flare the ends. The nuts are tightened tightly on the fittings, but without much effort.
- The drain tube is attached to the block with a threaded flange or with a piece of heat-shrinkable hose.
- The power supply of the air conditioner must be done through the machine. For a split system, its own wiring is laid with a cross section of at least 1.5 square meters. mm. A yellow wire with a green stripe is usually zero. This is where an indicator and a tester come in handy.
- Both parts of the air conditioner are connected by stranded wires according to the scheme from the instructions. At the slightest doubt, it is better to consult a specialist, repairing the system in case of incorrect connection will cost more.
Leak test and system filling
It is performed in the following sequence:
- A bicycle pump is attached to the nipple, and all joints and tubes are covered with soapy water. If bubbles appear during the air supply, then tighten the nuts on the fittings.
- After checking the tightness, air is pumped out of the air conditioner. A vacuum pump is attached to the nipple and runs for at least an hour. This is necessary to completely remove moisture from the system.
- By attaching a freon cylinder to the unit using an adapter with a pressure gauge, the system is filled until the pressure specified in the instructions is reached. Then turn on the power supply through the machine.
If the air conditioner independently switched to the system test mode, then everything worked out. If not, then starting from the remote might help. Otherwise, you will have to call the wizard.
With a positive result, it remains only to insulate the wiring harness between the blocks with foil and waterproof electrical tape, after which the hole in the wall is blown with foam. Everything, you can enjoy the operation of the air conditioner.
What you need to know about installing a split system
Problem: The main difficulty faced by the buyer of a split system is the problem of proper installation. Installation determines the quality and service life of the air conditioner by 90%. If errors are made during installation, then it is very difficult to correct them later.
- Solution: Installation must be carried out by specialists licensed to install air conditioners, in compliance with the instructions and using special equipment. After installation, no debris, no dust, no boxes should remain in the room. The word "air conditioner" has taken root only in our country. This is actually a piece of the phrase air-condition, which in English means “air condition”. The air conditioner is used to maintain the desired temperature and humidity in the room. By ventilating the air, the air conditioner cleans it by passing the air flow through special filters.
Today we will talk about installing a more modern type of air conditioning system - a split system. What are the advantages of a split system over a "regular" air conditioner? The split system does not block natural light, like a “window”, which is cut into the window frame. This is the first difference. In addition, it does not depend on the house's general air conditioning system, if any (this is when one hefty unit stands somewhere in the basement and drives air around the house). And it differs from the "ordinary" air conditioner in that it consists of two blocks - external and internal. If there are more than two indoor units, then this is already called a “multi-split system”.
But let's agree: for simplicity of presentation, I will talk about the split system, calling it the word "air conditioner", which is more familiar to our ears.
First - repair, then - split
So, a split system (from the English word split - “split, split”) consists of two separate blocks: an internal (evaporator) and an external or external (condenser). The blocks are interconnected by electrical wires and two copper tubes through which the refrigerant (freon) flows. A plastic thin tube (drainage) also extends outward from the indoor unit - to remove condensed moisture. Ideally, it should be connected to a drain (sewer) pipe or to a special tank, but often it is simply taken out into the street, and then drops of water fall on the heads of passers-by (for how to properly drain, see below).
The principle of operation of the split system is as follows. If the room needs to be cooled, then from the heat exchanger of the external unit, freon enters the heat exchanger of the indoor unit through one copper tube. It is blown by a fan, as a result of which cold air comes out of the indoor unit. If the air in the room needs to be heated, then with the help of a heat pump, the external condenser turns into an evaporator, and the evaporator becomes a condenser. In addition to the condenser and evaporator, the split system includes a compressor, which is installed in the outdoor unit. The main function of the compressor is to compress freon to give this gas properties that significantly increase the efficiency of the air conditioner.
The indoor unit operates almost silently (for Daikin models, the noise level of some indoor units is 28 - 31 dB, and for Mitsubishi, when the engine is turned on at the lowest speed, it is 26 dB; a flying butterfly creates the same noise level). But the fan and compressor of an external device can “buzz” and louder.
According to the mounting method, indoor units are wall-mounted and floor-ceiling (floor-ceiling are called so because they can be attached to both the ceiling and the floor). There are also cassette and multi-zone indoor units, but we will talk about them next time.
In apartments, wall-mounted indoor units are most often installed. With the help of movable shutters of the wall unit, you can change the direction of the air flow. But the power of wall blocks is specially limited - otherwise a strong stream of cold air will simply “blow off” everything in its path. But if a room (for example, in an office) requires a more powerful air conditioner, a floor-to-ceiling unit is installed. It will allow you to direct a strong jet along the wall or ceiling and thus ensure an even distribution of temperature in the room.
Our advice: if the length of the room significantly exceeds its width, it is much more efficient to install a floor-to-ceiling air conditioner!
Split systems differ in power (cooling capacity) and design. The choice of design is at the discretion of the buyer. But about the power, you must definitely consult with a specialist. In doing so, you need to know:
- 1. The area (volume) of your room.
- 2. The dimensions of the window, the direction of the world to which it goes.
- 3. The presence (absence) of blinds on the windows.
- 4. The number of constantly operating equipment that generates heat (TV, computer, etc.).
- 5. The number of radiators in the rooms.
- 6. The number of people permanently in the room.
- 7. Is there forced ventilation?
Another tip: if the company where you want to buy an air conditioner didn’t ask you anything about it, then it’s better not to buy from them. Because there is a danger that you are offered a "typical not that." In reputable companies, before selling the air conditioner, the consultant, as a rule, travels to the place of the intended installation of the device, takes measurements and finds out all the necessary details. Then all this data is entered into the program, and only after that the computer selects the optimal model. So, for example, they work in the Aeroprof company specializing in Carrier air conditioners (USA), in the Meteomarket company (Daikin air conditioners) and the KlimatSS company (Hitachi air conditioners) ).
What else do you need to know? Experts advise INSTALLING A SPLIT SYSTEM BEFORE or DURING REPAIR, and not after all repairs have already been completed. Then you do not have to gouge and drill freshly painted and leveled walls to lay the electrical wiring for the air conditioner and strengthen the brackets for fixing the indoor unit. You can, of course, hide communications in external boxes, but this will not decorate the interior.
Moreover, installation work in a freshly renovated apartment is much more expensive, especially after renovation.
Now about other possible "ambushes". Very often mistakes begin even when buying an air conditioner. Wanting to save money, we go to the nearest store (or even to the market) and buy an air conditioner. So what? And that's all: we are one on one with him. At best, after carefully reading the instructions, we undertake to install it.
Meanwhile, installing a split system in an apartment is not at all the same as installing a refrigerator or a TV: they say, they brought it home, put it in the chosen place, turned it on and it works! With air conditioning, such a room will not work. Air conditioning requires proper installation. This is exactly the case when it is impossible to save on installation. The better it is installed, the longer it will last. It is no coincidence that installation work is 18-30% of the cost of the unit.
I remember how one experienced and restrained-looking installer, answering my completely innocent question: where to start installing the air conditioner, suddenly got excited and yelled: “People! You are all smart! Each air conditioner is given an instruction in Russian, in which both installation and operating rules are described “for fools”, point by point. Read it, damn it, before sticking your hands in! Better yet, call the experts. And, alas, he is right.
Installation: where to start?
Split system installation diagram
- 1. Communications (in strobe)
- 2. Drainage (in strobe)
- 3. Sewerage
- 4. Siphon
- 5. Electrical wiring - to the shield (in the strobe)
- 6. Hole in the wall, punched with an inclination of 1–3°
First stage: separate electrical wiring is carried out
To any, even a low-power (1.5 kW) air conditioner, it is necessary to carry out a separate electrical wiring and put a separate machine in the electrical panel. Because the old wiring may not withstand the load and, God forbid, catch fire. If, however, a separate wiring for the air conditioner is laid by specialist installers, the possibility of fire is reduced to almost zero.
Be especially vigilant if your house is older than 1990. In old houses, the wiring, alas, is not designed for the loads from the use of powerful electrical equipment. Installers remember the case when the owner of the apartment was forced to replace all the wiring because of the air conditioner: the old one simply could not stand it and constantly knocked out plugs.
Second stage: installation of the outdoor unit
To do this, installers drill holes for brackets, on which they then install the outdoor unit.
If you put it on an open balcony, then there is no problem: they attached it with bolts, the breeze blows it - and everything is in order (if the balcony is glazed, then the device will not have enough air to work and it will soon break). If you want to attach the unit to the wall, then you can not do without strong brackets. Moreover, they must withstand a weight several times greater than the weight of the block. On high floors, the "outdoor" is mounted from a machine equipped with a sliding ladder. Or they call climbers (if the installation goes above the 5th floor). Such calls are paid separately and cost from 60 to 150 dollars. And sometimes equipment is required in the form of a car with a fire escape-boom, and a climber.
If you live on the upper floors, then the outdoor unit can be placed on the roof. But keep in mind that the difference between the indoor and outdoor units in height should not exceed 3-20 meters (depending on the brand of air conditioner and model).
If your apartment is located on the ground floor, I strongly recommend hanging the outdoor unit above 1.8–2 meters above the ground and “hide” it in a cage. And they can steal it. At one of the firms we were told a story. A man came and ordered only an external unit. Managers were surprised: "Why don't you want a whole split system." - “Yes, I have an air conditioner inside, but the outer “box” was cut off yesterday. On the first floor, under the window hung. Regardless of the height at which the external unit is “screwed”, it is necessary to make a metal visor above it. This will save the block from snow and icicles, which in the spring tend to fall from the roofs, breaking everything in their path.
In general, installing an outdoor unit is a responsible matter. If it is loosely fastened, it can fall down ... on someone. During the warranty period, the company that installed the air conditioner is responsible for the consequences of this. And then you will be responsible.
What can not be done with the outdoor (outdoor) unit?
There are space limitations for installing the outdoor unit:
- 1. The surface of the wall on which the block will be installed must be strong (otherwise it may collapse under the weight of the block) and smooth (otherwise the block will vibrate and deform).
- 2. Do not bend the tubes with refrigerant (freon) several times in a small area and unscrew their connections (this will lead to a refrigerant leak). If the tubes are twisted into a ring with a radius of less than 100 mm, then it will be more difficult for the compressor to pump freon.
Third stage: installation of the indoor unit
Installers fasten special brackets to the wall (if the unit is wall-mounted) or ceiling (if the unit is ceiling-mounted) with screws and install blocks on them. After that, it is necessary to check the strength of the fastening (does the structure stagger? Does it vibrate when the air conditioner is turned on?). Otherwise, sooner or later, the whole structure may simply collapse on your head.
But for the floor unit, special fasteners are not required. He, as they say, "stands on foot." You just need to immediately choose a place for it (when choosing a place, keep in mind that the unit does not blow on the curtains or on the wall and stand away from the heat source). And although the block is not attached to the floor, but after laying all the communications, it is no longer possible to move it from place to place.
So, the indoor unit cannot be installed:
- 1. ... above a heat source (for example, above a battery). Otherwise, the air conditioner will work for cooling “until the pulse is lost” and will fail very quickly. Imagine that you opened the door of the refrigerator, and it will cool not only the chamber, but the whole room. It will "work" and fail by the end of the day. The same will happen with the air conditioner. In addition, the heat from the room battery may deform the plastic housing of the unit.
- 2. ... in rooms where devices with high-frequency electromagnetic oscillations are constantly working (for example, a drill, a drilling machine). High-frequency vibrations can "knock down" the chip (processor) installed inside the air conditioner.
- 3 . ... directly above the bed or workplace, otherwise there is a danger of constantly catching a cold or, worse, getting pneumonia.
- 4. …where air circulation will be difficult, such as behind curtains, etc. The distance to the obstacle should not be less than 3 meters. Otherwise, the air conditioner, which maintains the set temperature automatically, will fail. The cooled (or heated) air flow from the air conditioner will be reflected from the obstacle and will return back with the same temperature with which it “came out”. The air conditioner will decide that the work has been done, the desired climate is set and turn off. This is exactly what happened to my friends. Their air conditioner constantly “got confused in the curtains” and turned off before it had time to bring the room temperature to the set one. I had to call specialists and reinstall the system.
- 5. ... with a skew - then water (condensate) will flow out of it onto the floor, which, according to the installation rules, must be discharged through a drainage pipe into a special reservoir (see our certificate of drainage).
Fourth stage: chasing walls or floors
In order to connect the electrical wires and freon tubes between the air conditioner units, installers punch gutters in the walls or on the ceiling (or, as the installers say, you need to “probe the line”). This is done if you want to make a hidden highway. Sometimes you have to “stroke”, for example, not the walls, but the floor of the apartment.
Don't want to ditch? Then you can hide the wires in decorative plastic boxes (sometimes the boxes are removed under the plinth). But before that, installers will need to connect two copper pipes (for refrigerant) and "ends" of electrical wiring between the outdoor and indoor units. Make sure the installers do this with the connection fittings. And in a pre-punched hole in the outer wall, they laid a “waterproof glass” with a connecting hose.
After that, they must carry out the so-called vacuuming of the communications, and be sure to do so for 50 minutes (it is during this time that “extra” air and moisture will come out of the communications). This manipulation is done with the help of special equipment.
And keep in mind - for the drainage tube, as a rule, they make a separate hidden line (in the wall or under the floor).
Fifth stage: checking the operation of the system using a special program
At this stage, installers must turn on the split system (air conditioner) by installing it on the test program. If everything works and the case does not vibrate, then it is in order. The work is almost finished. By the way, we advise you to independently conduct such a check of the system operation every year (using the same test program).
Sixth stage: garbage collection
I must warn you: laying the line and other installation procedures are dirt, dust and noise. But good installers (with a license to install air conditioners) will come with special tools (including a metal detector to examine the walls for fittings and hidden communications).
In addition, installers must have a vacuum cleaner and other cleaning machines. With their help, after the work is completed, they must independently remove all garbage. If the installers are trying to dodge the "dirty" work, strictly demand - "cleaning the territory" is included in the payment for the installation of the air conditioner. In addition, you can conclude an agreement with a reputable company for preventive maintenance of a split system. Then you don't have to, risking your life, leaning out of the window to the waist, clean the outdoor unit with a vacuum cleaner or call climbers with your own money. When concluding such an agreement (it also includes warranty repairs), of course, you will have to pay a certain amount, but believe me, it's worth it. By the way, we hasten to inform you of a pleasant detail: Meteomarket, which sells Japanese Daikin air conditioners, will replace your air conditioner with a new one free of charge after the three-year service contract expires. However, if you are satisfied with the old unit, you can not change it for 20 years. The company guarantees its uninterrupted good work. By the way, in the notorious building on Lubyanka, Daikin air conditioners have been standing since the days of the “corn secretary general” Nikita Khrushchev and are still working properly.
The outdoor unit must be regularly cleaned of dust and dirt. A particularly difficult period of the outdoor unit is the time of flowering of poplars. The fluff instantly clogs the filters, and the air conditioner (if it is not cleaned immediately) breaks down. Of course, you can vacuum it if you are not afraid of heights. But it’s better not to risk it and call the “air conditioner rescue service” - that is, a service company.
At temperatures below -15 ° C, the air conditioner may refuse to work "for heat", and then low-temperature equipment (a heat pump, a compressor heater and even a drain pipe heater) will be needed. By the way, some models are already equipped with these devices (see table).
What did the installers say?
Experienced installers do not advise buying air conditioners "from whomever you have", on the market or from hands.
“How many times it happened, some kind of illiterate buffoons will carry out the installation, and then people call us, begging for help,” one experienced installer from a very reputable company told me. - It used to be that such unfortunate installers would bring with them a copper pipe for freon, and it had no plugs. If there are no plugs, then moist air will get inside. And humidity is unacceptable for the air conditioner: when combined with the insides of the entire system, it forms an acid that corrodes the air conditioner mechanism from the inside! And instead of serving properly for many years, such an air conditioner is, of course, sent to a landfill in three years.
The installers told me that sometimes they come across especially stubborn customers, they say, “I'm crying, do as I say!”. How to be? Here was a case recently. The client ordered to install the outdoor unit not from the side of the street, but inside the apartment, moreover, in the children's room. He motivated this by a strange statement that his children, they say, will live in the country for another two months. He ignored all the persuasion and arguments of the installers that the outdoor unit should not be placed indoors, and even more so in a residential area. It is clear that after two months the stubborn buyer called the installers to reinstall everything on a new one.
Or here's the case. The client wanted the indoor unit to blow directly onto the bed and the air temperature to be 18°C. They tried to prove to him that it would be cold, in addition, a directed stream of cold air could cause a cold. "Not! I won't catch a cold! Bet!” Nothing to do, set. The next day they came to install the air conditioner in another room, they see, and the temperature on that, yesterday's split, is set to 22 ° C.
– What is it? they ask.
- It's true, guys, I froze at night.
In general, with the correct operation of the air conditioner, a person should not feel that something is cooling or heating him. Just comfortable - that's all! Once a friend called the company and asked to come. He says: “I didn’t buy it from you, though.” Okay, let's go. They opened the block, and there was a dead rat.
That's it. Hence the conclusion - it is not enough to buy and install a split system. The main thing is that professionals do it for you.
Our reference
The optimum temperature for human life is + 21–23°C.
Optimal air parameters in the residential area
For air conditioning a room with an area of 10 square meters, you need a device with a capacity of 1 kW, provided that the height of the walls is not higher than 3 meters.
There is a formula for calculating the cooling capacity (power):
Q(total) (excess heat) = Q1+ Q2+ Q3,
- 1. Excess heat, depending on the volume of the room, is calculated according to the following formula: Q1 = S x H x q(sp.), where S is the area of the room (sq.m.), H is the height of the room (m); q(sp.) = 0.03 kW/cu.m. - if direct sunlight does not enter the room; q(sp.) = 0.035 kW/cu.m. - mean; q(sp.) = 0.04 kW/cu.m. - if there is a lot of sun in the room.
- 2. The heat from running Q2 equipment is approximately 30% of the power it consumes.
- 3. Heat from people Q3 is 0.1 kW per person for offices and residential apartments and 0.1 - 0.3 kW for restaurants, gyms, etc. The power of the air conditioner is selected closest to the obtained value Q (gen.)
The procedure for installing a split system
1. Wiring a separate electrical wiring for the air conditioner and installing a separate "machine" in the switchboard.
2. Installation of the outdoor (outdoor) unit:
- choosing a place for its installation (not lower than 1.8–2 meters above the ground, otherwise they can be stolen - there have been cases);
- installation of supporting brackets (anchor bolts);
- strengthening the outdoor unit on the brackets;
- drilling a hole with a diameter of 5.0–6.0 cm in the outer wall for connecting communications (they will connect the external and internal blocks of the split system);
- inserting a “waterproof glass” into the hole (the material from which the “glass” is made is the know-how of installers); laying in the "glass" of connecting communications.
3. Installation of the indoor unit:
- choice of location (the horizontal distance between the indoor and outdoor units should not exceed more than 7-30 meters - depending on the brand of the system);
- installation of supporting brackets;
- strengthening the indoor unit on the brackets.
4. System wiring connection:
- chasing a wall or floor (in order to hide communications or laying wires in a plastic case);
- connection of wires (copper for refrigerant and electrical) coming from the outdoor unit to the indoor unit using connecting fittings;
- carrying out the vacuum procedure (within 50 minutes, to remove air and moisture from communications using special equipment).
5. Testing the system:
- checking the operation of the system using a special program.
6. Cleaning of the premises (by the installers).
How should proper drainage be arranged?
To do this, installers must:
- 1. Break the highway.
- 2. Turn off the water in the apartment.
- 3. Drill a hole in the sewer pipe.
- 4. Firmly insert a drainage plastic tube with a siphon into the hole. A layer of water in the siphon will delay the smell coming from the sewer.
Attention! The drainage tube, through which the accumulated moisture is removed, must necessarily go at an inclination of 5–10 mm so that there is a natural flow of water. If for some reason the tilt cannot be done, you must install a special pump for “forced suction of moisture”. But! This pump is not included and must be purchased separately. The purchase will cost 70 - 190 dollars, depending on the pump model you choose.
The main problems that arise during the operation of the air conditioner
Problem 1: The air conditioner blows directly on you, creating a drafty feeling.
- Solution: It is necessary to turn on the auto-oscillation function of the horizontal blinds (then the draft will turn into a light breeze) or fix the horizontal shutters in a better position. If this does not work, you need to turn the air flow to the left or right using the vertical air flaps. In most air conditioners, this operation is done manually, but in some models it can be done using the remote control.
Problem 2: On hot days, the air conditioner does not create the necessary coolness, despite the fact that it works constantly.
- Solution: In this case, you should check if the filters are clogged, if windows and doors are closed, if additional heating devices (boilers or toasters) are working in the room. It can be recommended to hang thick white blinds on the windows, which reflect heat and light well, thus reducing the heat gain through the windows by almost half. If this does not help, the model must be replaced with a more powerful one.
Problem 3: Water is dripping from the indoor unit of the split system.
- Solution: Looks like the drainpipe is clogged. Most often, this situation occurs when an air conditioner with a drainage pipeline brought outside is turned on for cooling at sub-zero temperatures. In this case, the condensate may turn into an ice plug. To avoid this, it is necessary to heat the drainage pipeline to +5 °C using a special cable. If an ice plug nevertheless arose, then it is worth waiting for a thaw, and until that moment do not turn on the system for cooling.
Problem 4: Decreased airflow.
- Solution: Clean the air filter. This can be done with a vacuum cleaner or washed with a soft sponge in warm water. It is not recommended to operate the air conditioner without a filter, as it protects not only your lungs, but also the heat exchanger of the indoor unit. When the latter becomes dusty, the efficiency of the air conditioner decreases.
Problem 5: Icing of the outdoor unit during the operation of the air conditioner for heating in conditions of low negative temperatures and high humidity.
- Solution: If the air conditioner is not equipped with an automatic defrost system, try turning it on in cooling mode. In this case, the outdoor unit begins to give off heat to the street, heats up and gradually thaws.
Problem 6: Premature failure of the air conditioner.
- Solution: To avoid this, do not operate it at temperatures below -10-15°C. At lower temperatures, the oil in the compressor thickens, and its wear increases many times over.
There are various rumors about the dangers of air conditioners. But in the press center of the capital's SES, we were told that there is nothing to be afraid of: with the timely replacement of filters and subject to the operating rules, the split system does not hide any harm. At least, there were no complaints to the sanitary and epidemiological supervision.
Courtesy of MATERIAL magazine