Unfortunately, no one is immune from the depressurization of the pipeline in the apartment, therefore, in an emergency, it will be necessary to detect the area with damage as soon as possible and the ability to independently eliminate the defect. During emergency work, a hand-made pipe clamp will be indispensable. Products will help, if not completely get rid of, then at least weaken the resulting leakage.
Clamps for fastening pipes, do I need to do it myself?
Of course, on sale the clamp is presented in assortment. Factory made clamps are either stainless steel or flame retardant polymer. They are used both for connecting different parts of pipes, and for fixing entire products in various positions. It is impossible to do without them when arranging heating systems, sewerage, as well as in laying gas and water supply.
It's nice to have a pipe clamp on hand, professionally made at the factory, but if they are not there, or the size does not match, then it will be useful to learn how to design the simplest clamps with your own hands from improvised materials. Manufacturing will not take much time and effort, but at the right time they will help out a lot.
Metal clamp for pipes for compression
General fixture scheme
Any clamp consists of a steel bandage designed to compress the pipe and a rubber seal that closes the damage, ensuring the tightness of the area. The seal is usually made of corrugated rubber. In addition to the actual sealing, it serves to dampen vibration and noise in the pipe, and also protects the pipe section from deformation during compression by screws for fasteners.
The procedure for making a homemade pipe clamp
For work you will need:
- A strip of galvanized steel or iron, not more than a millimeter thick
- Rubber flap 3mm
- Bolts M6, M8 or M10 - to choose from, which are found. Enough 2-3 pieces.
In addition to materials, you will need tools:
- scissors for metal (jigsaw, grinder)
- hammer
- spanners
- calipers
- pliers/vice and
- drill, drills (M7, M9, or M10, M12)
The first thing to do is to measure the diameter of the pipe with a caliper. But if the pipe is large in diameter, then it will be more convenient to measure with a ruler with a corner.
Then you need to cut a metal strip with a width of 4 to 8 cm. The selected width depends on the thickness of the pipe and the size of the damage. Here you will have to tinker a little with the length of the strip, calculating it according to the rules: the diameter of the pipe obtained during the measurement is multiplied by the Pi number - 3.14, then 3-4 cm are added to it, after which the piece can be cut off. This margin of centimeters (“ears”) is needed so that the bandage can be fastened in this place with the help of bolts and nuts.
You will need to drill two holes in the “ears” for the bolts, given the size of the latter, however, the holes may be slightly larger to make them easier to screw. If the pipe has a large width, then it is better if there are not two holes, but three. Then the ears are bent at a right angle with the help of pliers, you can just use your hands if the tin is thin.
The next step is trying on - bending the tin strip around the pipe. And the finished “ears” are brought together until their opposite holes coincide. If the strip does not fit snugly, then tap it lightly with a hammer. When the clamp takes the desired shape, it is lifted and a rubber gasket cut out in advance is inserted under it.
Installation of clamps on pipes
Final installation of the product
The rubber gasket should be in place of the damage, completely covering it. Then the bandage is taken, its “ears” are moved apart widely to the sides, and it is carefully put on the pipe over the rubber. If everything was calculated correctly, then in a loose form between the ears there should be a distance of about 3 cm. Then bolts are inserted into the holes on the ears and they are gradually, almost simultaneously, tightened with nuts to failure.
A leak that occurs in a heating or water supply system is quickly eliminated with the help of such a homemade clamp. In the process of its manufacture, the water, of course, should be turned off, but during the installation itself, the water supply must be present - this will allow you to immediately, on the spot, evaluate the effectiveness of the repair being carried out. After completing the work, it is necessary to carefully wipe the place of the former leak and wait a few minutes to make sure that it has been completely eliminated. And strongly protruding bolts can be shortened with a grinder.
A well-made and properly seated clamp can serve for more than one year. But if the pipes are too old, then they can break through in other places. Therefore, if possible, they should be replaced with new ones or at least solder problem areas by welding. It is clear that if the pressure in the pipes is high, then welding will hold more reliably than any clamp.
It is worth mentioning that in addition to the usual ones, there is a mortise clamp. They are used when connecting the house to the central water supply. Such clamps are installed by any locksmith using a milling machine and wrenches. But this type of work should only be carried out by a person with a special education, so it is done by employees who service the local water supply system.
After reading these recommendations, a possible leak will not take you by surprise, because in such a situation every second counts, and the exact and timely actions taken allow you to minimize its negative consequences, and wait for the arrival of specialists without too much excitement.
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How to make a temporary pipe clamp?
Oleg, Yekaterinburg asks a question:
Help, please, to solve such problem. At the cottage, the water riser began to leak. A major overhaul with the replacement of pipes is planned for the spring. You need to fix the leak somehow. Need detailed instructions on how to make a pipe clamp. I would be very grateful for good advice.
The expert answers:
Various breaks in pipes have been repaired with clamps for a very long time. The technology of such work is tested, simple and reliable. To do this, you will need the following materials:
- a piece of tin;
- a piece of rubber;
- bolts;
- nuts;
- washers.
The clamp consists of a metal crimp - a bandage, as well as an internal rubber seal - a cuff. Absolutely any tin will do, but better try to pick up galvanized. Such a bandage will be more resistant to corrosion. The thickness should not be less than 0.5 mm. The cuff can be cut from an old boot, a piece of an automobile or bicycle inner tube, or a thick mitten. Any rubber will do. The number of bolts depends on the clamp width. If narrow, then one is enough. For a wide one, you will need 2 or 3. Diameter from 6 to 10 mm. Nuts and washers are selected according to them.
First prepare your tools:
- Hammer.
- Pliers. A vice will do too.
- Calipers. Can be replaced with a piece of some kind of lace.
- Scissors for cutting metal. A jigsaw or a grinder will do.
- Hand or electric drill.
- Drills for the size of the bolts.
- Wrenches.
- Sandpaper.
Clamp installation
Measure the diameter of the pipe with a caliper. So you will know how long to cut a strip of tin. To do this, multiply the number "pi" by the value of the diameter. The result is the circumference of the circle. Those who do not like geometry or do not have a caliper can use a cord or something similar.
Cover your pipe with this cord and make marks on it, for example, with a felt-tip pen or chalk. By measuring the distance between the marks, get the same circumference. Add 3-4 cm for the "ears". The width depends on the damage on the pipe. The rubber patch is also cut out.
Only its size should be without "ears". Tapping with a hammer, bend around the pipe with a cut strip, and bend the “ears” at a right angle with pliers. Putting them together, drill a hole for the existing bolt. If the width is more than 4 cm, then drill 2 holes, or even 3. Clean the place under the clamp with sandpaper.
Apply the middle of the cuff to the place of leakage, put a bandage on top of it and tighten it with a bolt and nut. Now you have detailed instructions on how to make pipe clamps yourself. Such clamps are very reliable and durable, and can serve no less than the pipe itself.. So your temporary repair may well become permanent.
People who are at least sometimes engaged in repair and installation work know that a clamp may be needed at the most unexpected moment. This is the first device that comes to mind when you need to quickly fix a pipe leak. Indeed, the imposition of a clamp is a temporary measure, but sometimes necessary. It is possible that, due to circumstances, it cannot be bought right now, moreover, even a simple wire clamp is suitable to solve the problem. Therefore, you need to do it yourself.
pipe leak
Design features of the product
A clamp is a simple and effective device that has a lot of typical variations, but, in fact, they all have similar design characteristics. The difference is presented in the form of forms, fasteners. Their use is most common in the field of installation and repair of pipeline systems, this causes another characteristic feature of the design. For better fixation and tightness, the product often has a rubber gasket.
Regarding the practical benefits of the products in question, we can say that without them it is almost impossible to carry out high-quality fixation of the pipeline, both horizontal and vertical.
The line of types of this device begins with the simplest one-sided products, which are a threaded stud. Further, it continues with variations that differ not only in the greater complexity of the design, but also in size (this should be understood as the maximum diameter of the pipe for which this or that product can be used) and intended purpose.
Clamps The most common problems that clamps help to solve:
- Repairing cracks in piping systems. Depending on the type of product, even fairly large damage can be covered.
- A broken tube is an uncommon but serious problem. For the most part, it is faced by those who professionally install and repair pipelines.
- Also, if it is necessary to eliminate the "fistulas" of water pipes, clamps are again widely used. In such a situation, it is necessary to use a soft substrate.
Note! If the pipe being repaired serves as a means of transporting aggressive liquids, then a type of fastener must be used that is able to withstand such specific operating conditions.
- Specifically for steel pipes, the product can help reduce the risk of leakage due to corrosion. It is not uncommon for situations to arise that it damages the metal so much that a leak can occur at any moment.
The market is saturated with all kinds of clamp configurations from different manufacturers. Factory production, in addition to professional manufacturing, also gives a guarantee of quality. After all, products are manufactured in accordance with GOST. Such government regulation of quality is associated with a high degree of the role of clamps in maintaining the integrity of the structures in which they are used. Based on this, the question arises whether it is worth making a clamp on a steel pipe with your own hands.
The question arises Is it worth it to make clamps with your own hands, and what mistakes can be made
The clamp is at first glance the simplest device that does not differ in any characteristics that are difficult to understand. The presence of the risk associated with the manufacture of homemade clamps depends on how confident a person is in his abilities, and whether the clamp can be used in given conditions.
For example, a fairly rusted heating pipe leaked. The area of corrosion in the damaged area has a fairly wide area. If the clamp is made incorrectly, not corresponding to the required size, then after trying to install it, the situation can only get worse.
Rust streaks from under the collar Based on this, of course, it is better to always have on hand clamps of various modifications and sizes of factory production, or if problems arise with the pipeline, immediately contact the repair service. Unfortunately, neither the first nor the second options are often feasible. No one plans a leak, the time of its occurrence is not regulated, and it is not possible to have clamps of all configurations available.
If a leak occurs, immediate action must be taken. And it is for this purpose that you can make a clamp with your own hands, which will give time to solve the problem in full.
The simplest clamp
In the absence of specialized tools and materials, such as a grinder, drill, sheet metal, and the like, you can resort to the simplest, but temporarily problem-solving option - to make a clamp from a piece of wire. It will help to eliminate the leak as quickly as possible and calmly wait for the help of specialists:
pipe leak - The first thing to do is find some duct tape or duct tape, a piece of soft enough to bend but strong wire, and a piece of rubber (like a tourniquet).
- Next, you should put a piece of rubber on the pipe in the place where the leak occurred, after which it is pressed down as tightly as possible by the wire by winding it.
Important! When winding with wire, special attention should be paid to the edges of the future clamp.
- The resulting patch, for greater reliability, is tightly wrapped with adhesive tape (adhesive tape or electrical tape).
Such a product, made by hand, will not require a lot of time and at the same time help to avoid possible big problems.
Semi-professional option
The previously described example of the manufacture of a wire collar is "urgent". But if the manufacture of the product does not require much haste, and there is a tool available, then you can independently build a fairly good version of the product. This one can last for years.
Required Tool
First, you need to understand what tool you need:
- Hammer or light sledgehammer;
- Drill and drill (Ø 6 - 8 mm);
- Bulgarian or special scissors for cutting metal;
- Measuring instruments - ruler, caliper;
- Wrenches, pliers.
materials
To make a clamp that can withstand significant loads, you will need:
- A metal plate of moderate thickness, preferably up to 1 mm. You should not use steel of greater thickness, since it will not only be problematic to bend, but it will not allow you to make a sufficiently tight connection;
- Rubber strip, its thickness should be about 3 mm;
- Bolts, nuts (Ø 6 - 8 mm). It is desirable to have washers for them.
Manufacturing algorithm
To successfully make a collar with your own hands, you will not need special abilities in this matter, but some elementary skills are still needed. According to the advice of experienced plumbers, the work should take place in the following sequence:
- The process begins with measuring the damaged area, then a steel plate of the appropriate size is cut. In the dimensions of the plate, it is necessary to take into account not only the length of the damaged section of the pipe, but also its circumference (after obtaining the size, add 5 cm to it).
pipe measurement - On both sides of the workpiece, with the help of pliers, the “ears” of the future fastener are bent (in the end, they should be perpendicular to the main part of the metal strip).
- In the "ears" you need to drill holes for the mounting bolt.
Homemade collar - Next, a strip of rubber is cut, the width of which should be less than the circumference of the damaged pipe.
Should be taken into account! If the clamp being made is small (no more than 6 cm), then the “ears” can be with one hole in the center for the mounting bolt. If it is larger, then it is preferable to make them more than 2-3.
Installation
After the product is almost ready, you can proceed to its installation, which will be the completion of the work.
- A metal plate with moderate pressure bends around a pipe having a diameter similar to that which has integrity damage. Ultimately, the ears should match.
- Attention! If the bend is uneven, then problems may arise with the installation of the mounting bolt.
- A pre-prepared piece of rubber is applied to the leak site, after which a steel plate is installed on top of it. Before proceeding with the installation of a metal element, it needs to be slightly straightened. This is done in order to simplify the installation process on the pipe.
- And so, if everything was done correctly, then between the "ears" there will be a distance of a couple of centimeters, and they can be pulled together with a bolt. When sufficient product pressure is reached on the pipe, the flow will stop.
Collar - a connecting knot for pipes, hoses, various tubular designs.
Clamps are one of the most indispensable means for fastening pipes and air ducts. As practice shows, clamps for fastening are used in work with almost all types of pipes, from flexible to rigid. Also, the pipe clamp finds its application in the installation of sewer and gas pipes. The main task of pipe clamps is to secure the connection between pipes and seal them.
Metal and plastic clamps
Based on the material used for the manufacture of clamps, they can be divided into two groups: plastic and metal. A metal clamp has a much greater margin of safety than a plastic one, therefore it is considered truly universal and can be used for almost any type of pipe connection. Its cost is slightly higher than the cost of plastic analogues, but this is due to the exceptionally high reliability of the metal clamp. Plastic clamps can be used both for a rigid type of fixation of a pipe connection, and for a movable one (due to their characteristics, they cannot provide relative mobility of pipes in a connection). Of course, the strength of a clamp made of plastic will be lower than the strength of a metal clamp similar in function and size.
Stainless clamps
Stainless clamps are made entirely of stainless steel, including the lock and clamp screw. By design, the clamp is made of three parts: tape, lock and screw. When buying, you need to pay attention to the material of these three parts. Clamps with a stainless band and with a lock and a screw made of plain carbon steel are very common.
The designation of the material on stainless clamps differs from the fastening designation:
On clamp W4 (A4) = Material A2 = AISI 304
On clamp W5 (A5) = Material A4 = AISI 316
Stainless steel clamps are used for mechanisms and flexible hoses operating in wet environments. In this case, it is necessary to remember about the electrochemical corrosion of stainless steel with various metals. Accordingly, a design with a galvanized screw and a lock can cause intense corrosion and destruction, which can have very sad consequences for critical components.
Worm drive clamps
A feature of their device is a strong worm lock with a one-piece stamped body, in which there is a gap and an optimal thread angle together with a screw tape, which provides a uniform compression force around the perimeter, a large limiting torque during tightening, high vibration resistance and MTBF.
Worm-drive clamps are used for fixing and sealing hose and flexible pipe connections, for connecting petrol lines in automobiles, as well as for pipe connections, for example, in refrigerators, stoves and other household items, in sanitary systems, process equipment, etc. Clamps are often used to connect hoses at machine-building plants in the production of special equipment, where high mechanical loads on the joints are expected.
Manufactured as a single piece, assembled with the tape form a stepless reverse surface, providing reliable sealing of the joint.
Material:
- galvanized steel,
- stainless steel,
- combined: bolt - carbon steel, yellow passivated; the lock and a tape - stainless steel.
Sizes: Galvanized steel clamps for hose diameters 6–260 mm. Stainless steel hose clamps for 8–320 mm hoses.
Plastic ties (cable ties)
Recently, cable clamps have found sufficient popularity as one of the fastest, most convenient and economical ways of bandaging, fastening and marking cables during electrical work.
Cable ties (cable ties) can vary in size (length and width), colors and materials, according to the maximum load they can withstand. A wide range of colors offers the opportunity to satisfy both the taste preferences of the individual electrician and the aesthetic design of the room.
Clamps are also divided into the following types:
According to the material are distinguished:
Clamp plastic
- stainless steel clamp (stainless steel clamp)
- steel clamp
- galvanized clamp
By purpose, they distinguish:
Metal pipe clamps
- clamp for steel pipes (DIN 3570 U-clamp)
- quick release clamps
- clamp universal
- plastic clamps
- plumbing clamps
- fastening clamp (DIN 3016 Clamp with steel overlays with rubber band)
- repair clamps
- construction clamps
- mounting clamp
By design, they distinguish:
Worm-drive clamp
- coupler clamps
- band clamp
- mortise clamp
- clamp
- double clamp
- clamping clamp (DIN 3567 Clamp)
- flexible clamp
- reinforced clamp
- spring clamp
- swivel clamps
Description of how to make a clamp yourself out of wire
Spring, as usual, came when no one expected it. And our whole street began to sink.
That's why I bought a motor pump. And to the motor pump - a bundle of hoses, both suction and exhaust.
In the process of collecting all this into a single whole, I discovered that, since I selected worm clamps for suction hoses, they did not fit for exhaust hoses, because the latter have a wall thickness, and, as a result, the outer diameter of the pipe is noticeably smaller. But I foresaw something similar, and just in case I bought a coil of galvanized knitting wire with a diameter of 2mm.
As it turned out, it is not an easy task to securely fix a hose into which water is supplied under a pressure of 500 liters per minute with a wire. After tormenting with a screwdriver and pliers, it turns out something like this:
It holds about the same as it looks - i.e. Badly. Once the sleeve was torn off and I was doused with water. Well, there were no injuries. After re-bandaging, it still held badly, despite all my efforts. Well, it flowed, of course, through all the cracks.
I remembered that last year I saw an excellent video of Advocate Yegorov, well-known in the circles of craftsmen, about a device he made homemade called a "clamp".
Lawyer Egorov is wonderful, and at first I even thought of repeating his whole device. But laziness was a problem, and I began to look for simpler options for the same device. And in the end, having gone through several options, I settled on the one that I liked the most - the version of Alexander Dorovikov.
I immediately went and bought a hexagon for 12 and an open-end wrench with a ratchet, also for 12.
From the flat key, as you can see, the horn part was sawn off, the tip was slightly pointed, and a groove was sawn at its end to fix it on the wire.
At both ends of the hexagon, longitudinal cuts were made where the wire should be inserted:
In addition, on the advice of Alexander, I marked the direction of free rotation of the ratchet part with a permanent marker:
After these simple steps, we try to knit a collar.
To begin with, we bend a piece of wire of sufficient length in half, and squeeze the bend slightly with the handles of the wire cutters, because it is no longer very convenient to bend a 2-mm wire at such a radius with your hands.
Then we throw on the first turn of the clamp, threading the free ends through the loop:
And we make one more turn, again threading the ends into the loop:
We fasten our device with a sawn groove on the loop:
And we insert a hexagon into the ratchet hole, simultaneously capturing the free ends of the wire with a cut. And twist it a little to create at least a little tension.
After that, we begin to twist, simultaneously correcting the wire around the entire perimeter, making sure that the turns do not overlap. You don't have to go crazy. When there is already a feeling that everything has dragged on enough, we bend our device through the loop like this:
After that, it remains only to bite the "antennae" and bend them so as not to cling and not scratch anything.
Well, now - we dance with joy, the connection is ready. If I explained something incomprehensibly - go to Alexander's video, to which I gave the link above, everything is explained there in much more detail.
What we have as a result: a piece of iron is simple, relatively inexpensive, and the benefits are a wagon. Under the hood, of course, you won’t use it because of its rather large dimensions - but for a wire of a smaller diameter, you can easily make a smaller pepyak.
Why is it needed? - asks the caustic reader. - After all, there are inexpensive worm clamps!
No, dear reader, they do not always exist and do not always fit the situation.
First, good worm-drive clamps are rare. And - not cheap.
Secondly, often there are no clamps at all in the required diameter, not to mention good ones.
Thirdly - the wire tie, according to my feelings, fixes much stronger, and above all - due to the fact that it tightens with a uniform force around the entire circumference.
Fourthly, it is possible to strengthen an existing connection with a wire without disconnecting it. It won’t work with a worm clamp (P.S. I was already convinced in the comments that it will actually work, I checked it - it really works, but not with all clamps). Therefore, it can be used not only for pipes and hoses, but also, for example, for assembling structures from poles, for the prompt repair of split handles of axes, screwdrivers, chisels and much more.
And fifthly, no one bothers a real paranoid person to have both in stock. There is a collar - you put it. There is no clamp - you wind the wire.
The tool cost me more than I expected - because I did not have time to the car market before it closed, and I bought the keys in the "1000 little things" section, where the twists for all this nonsense are quite large. A ratchet wrench cost me 260 rubles, and a hexagon wrench - 220. But 500 rubles for the resulting stray is not a pity. It's nice to hold in your hands a tool that you partially made yourself.
Have you ever needed a clamp, but you don’t have it at hand, if so, then this article will help you solve this problem very quickly.
I suggest that you make a very simple device for tightening wire clamps with your own hands, which will allow you to replace purchased clamps with home-made wire clamps.
Materials for manufacturing
For the manufacture of the device we need- steel strip 200 mm long, 25-30 mm wide, and 2.5 mm thick;
- steel bar 10 mm thick;
- pieces of sheet iron 6-10 mm thick;
- any handle material of your choice.
Manufacturing process
We make the clamp base of such dimensions 200 mm x 30 mm x 2.5 mm by cutting out a steel strip or a piece of sheet iron, as shown in the photo below. We will also need two pieces of iron measuring 40 mm x 30 mm x 8 mm, which we will weld to the base for thickening. The collar can be made from a steel bar 10 mm thick by welding it in a T-shape, or made from an automobile stabilizer strut with a rod thickness of 10 mm.
Now we weld pieces of metal to the base and drill with a 10 mm drill.
For the convenience of using the tool, we make a handle from wood or another material that you like best (plastic, textolite, plexiglass).
In the stock, we make a cut with a width of 2.5 mm with a grinder, under the diameter of the wire we are going to use.
Now our clamp is ready for use, and its length after final processing turned out to be 180 mm.
We make the clamp itself from steel wire 2-2.5 mm thick, bending it as shown in the photo.
Next, we insert the wire into the slot of the collar on both sides and by scrolling the collar we tighten the clamp, after which we bend the handle of the clamp away from ourselves, thus fixing the clamp.
We bite off the excess wire, and bend the ends with a hammer.
Thanks to such a tricky device, you can make clamps of any diameter. Of course, such clamps are one-time use, but they come out strong and durable, and their cost is really a penny, even if you have to buy several meters of the necessary wire.
Video from the author
Good luck to everyone, and the implementation of all plans.