All modern houses and apartments are designed in such a way that any room is as functional as possible. Therefore, today you will not surprise anyone with the fact that in each of the premises of the house there are a large number of various electrical appliances. It is for this reason that at the time of drawing up a diagram of outlets in an apartment, many different details must be taken into account.
What is the ideal height for outlets?
If you look at the photo of the sockets in the apartment, you will see that in most cases either the option of placing directly above the baseboard, or approximately at hip level is used. Of course, other options are encountered while viewing design projects, but they are far from being used so often by electricians for many reasons.
When placed at hip level, the advantage is convenient access directly to electricity for all appliances that will sit on different surfaces. In the first case, the convenience will be noticeable when using such household appliances as a vacuum cleaner.
Where to place sockets in the bedroom and guest room?
In the living room, as well as in the room set aside for sleeping, at what height it is completely unimportant to install the outlet as a whole, due to the fact that it will mainly be used for floor lamps that stand on the floor or small table-type lamps. The nuance will consist only in the obligatory laying of sockets on each side of the bed, and for all chairs.
Even if at this stage of the repair you are sure that there will not be a floor lamp next to the chair, it is not a fact that you will not change your mind, for example, six months later.
The socket used for the charger is best placed next to the bedside table or close to the sofa.
Make sure that the living room has a couple of slots for a home theater, music system. If you are a fish lover, then in this case, do not forget to take into account the necessary sockets for lighting, a water filter near the aquarium. These outlets in the future must be as easy as possible to access.
An important point. Think in advance what the route of your vacuum cleaner will be during cleaning. If the area of the room is large enough, then the most convenient option for the location of the sockets in the apartment is in the back of the room and right at the entrance. Thus, you will save yourself the need to constantly stretch the cord of the electrical appliance in constant attempts to get to the far parts of the room.
Home office
For a home office, there must be a pair of "outputs" right at the desktop. The low level of installation of the wiring of sockets in the apartment with your own hands is ideal for those cases when the computer is of a stationary type. Do not forget that very often for an external camera, as well as for computer speakers, its own outlet is required.
If you have to charge your smartphone, player or tablet quite often, then the main thing here is that all the sockets must be located literally at hand.
New generation sockets: with phone tray, USB input and TV antenna.
Reflecting on the question of how to make an outlet with your own hands, you should understand that today more and more various household appliances can be charged without problems using the simplest USB cable. It is for this reason that a familiar outlet with a plug is far from always needed.
Reduce the number of outlets in your home during renovations by installing a special device for future USB charging. It makes it possible to charge several devices at the same time, while shortening the charging time. Sockets of this type can be easily installed next to the classic ones in a single frame. They are best placed near a work surface to avoid the risk of people stepping on the charger.
Another similar device makes it possible to combine an outlet in the usual sense with a universal built-in battery. The main convenience lies in the possibility of installation in absolutely any single slot, which not only saves space in the room, but also significantly increases your "tactical" capabilities during repairs.
Sockets in the kitchen
In no case should the refrigerator be connected using an extension cord. That is why the socket in the kitchen should be installed not only in the required place, but also taking into account this restriction.
In practice, the connection of the oven, like any modern cooking surface, is carried out through one or even two sockets. An important point is that these are mainly simple three-phase sockets powered by their own RCD.
If we talk about kitchen or household appliances in general, then when analyzing how to replace an old outlet with a new one, it is best to simply put it on an apron. In the future, you can connect both a blender and a kettle there, and during the day.
An important point. For the operation of the microwave and TV in the kitchen, it is best to make a special disguised exit in advance. If there are few outlets in the necessary places in the kitchen, then they can be brought out even to the side surface of the lower one from the kitchen cabinets. To conceal the nest, you can use a modern hinged folding section.
Bathroom sockets
In the public domain, there should always be literally a couple of slots at home, used for an electric razor and a hair dryer. Also, one or two additional sockets can be placed on the floor if there is a machine for washing clothes right in the room.
If you plan to install a hydromassage panel or a new generation bathtub with a built-in TV in the bathroom, then a hidden type of power supply must be provided separately for them.
In conclusion, it is worth noting that you should not forget about safety precautions. Because sockets tend to clog up with dust quickly enough without proper care, they should be cleaned at least once a week.
Photo of sockets in the apartment
In a modern home, many rooms are divided into several functional areas, where different electrical appliances and lighting systems are used. The issue of designing electrical wiring is a crucial stage in the repair. It is necessary to take into account many important points: the type of room, the arrangement of furniture, the number and height of the sockets and switches.
The article contains the standards and requirements for the installation of power points and switches, as well as recommendations for the placement of wiring devices in different rooms.
Standards and Breakers: Myths and Reality
The placement of switches and sockets in the room determines the degree of comfort. When starting repair work, many novice electricians are interested in the question: "What should be the installation height of switches and sockets according to accepted standards?"
In fact, there are no restrictions on the placement of power points. There are some requirements for the installation of sockets in the bathroom, as well as in industrial and public premises.
As for the location of switches and sockets in the apartment, there are some recommendations. To adhere to them or not depends on the purpose of the room, the arrangement of furniture, the comfort of use and your own wishes.
Previously, the following standards were considered generally accepted:
- the distance from the floor to the outlet is 90 cm;
- installation height of switches in the apartment - 1.6 m.
These parameters have their merits, so many people still adhere to these standards. Plus the "Soviet" standards - the switch is located at eye level, and in order to insert the plug into the outlet you will not have to bend over.
Recommended standards for the installation height of sockets and switches
Installation height of sockets and switches: PUE
The Electrical Installation Rules (PUE) determine the following standards for the placement of sockets / switches:
- Sockets and switches should be located at a distance of 0.6 meters or more from the doorway of the shower or bathroom.
- From gas pipelines, any elements of electrical installations, switches and sockets must be at a distance of at least 0.5 m.
- The recommended height for placing the switches is no more than 1 m. The optimal installation location is considered to be the wall on the side of the door handle. If necessary, the switch is mounted above the ceiling. In this case, it is necessary to provide the ability to turn on the light using a cord.
- The outlet in the bathroom must be connected via an RCD device.
Requirements for the placement of sockets and switches in accordance with GOST and SP
In GOST R 50571.11-96, the requirement is also spelled out, according to which switches and sockets in the bathroom are located 60 cm or more from the door of the factory shower stall.
More detailed information with standards, recommendations for design and power supply is collected in the Code of Practice 31-110-2003. The device of internal electrical networks, namely the installation of switches and sockets (level, height, number) is carried out in compliance with the following rules:
- The distance from the sockets used to connect air conditioners and stationary kitchen electric stoves to the appliances themselves is not standardized.
- In the living rooms of dormitories and apartments, one socket with a current of 10 (16) A must be installed for every 4 m of the perimeter, in the corridors - for every 10 sq. M. area.
- In private and single-family houses, the number of sockets is determined by the customer.
Installation height of sockets and switches: "Eurostandard"
The term "European standard" came into use together with the emergence of the concept of "European-quality repair". For some consumers, such an arrangement of sockets and switches seems more comfortable:
- the installation height of the switches is 90 cm from the floor, which allows, walking by and without raising your hands, turn on / off the light in the room;
- the placement of sockets is provided at a level of 30 cm from the floor - this distance allows you to hide wires and more comfortably operate household appliances.
American standard for socket placement:
- height from the floor (kitchen table or sink) - 30.5-41 cm;
- the distance between the sockets is 1.8 m (report from the doorway).
Important! When using euro sockets, it must be borne in mind that the diameter of their pins and the distance between them are greater than those of domestic ones. The current strength of imported outlets is about 10-16A, while that of domestic ones is up to 10 A. Therefore, the installation of European sockets will allow the use of more powerful electrical appliances.
Installation height of switches and sockets in the apartment
Electrical wiring in the kitchen
The modern kitchen is equipped with many electrical appliances: oven and hob, refrigerator, extractor hood, dishwasher, coffee maker, electric kettle, meat grinder, toaster, etc. The design of electrical wiring begins with the creation of a detailed diagram showing the location of furniture and the arrangement of household appliances.
- To connect a dishwasher and washing machine, refrigerator - 10-20 cm from floor level. This is the best option in relation to the length of the electrical cord of the technique. Some models of household appliances have a short wire, which will not be enough if the outlet is located at a height of 50 cm.
- To connect small appliances (multicooker, microwave oven, toaster, etc.), the socket is installed at a distance of 20 cm from the tabletop level, or 110 cm from the floor.
- A separate socket is mounted under the hood at a distance of 2 m from the floor. There must be at least 20 cm from the middle of the hood to the outlet so that the ventilation duct does not block the outlet openings.
- It is better to place “power points” for built-in appliances behind the walls of cabinets and cabinets. For free access, you will have to cut out their back walls. The recommended installation height of sockets in furniture is 30-60 cm from the floor. In this case, it is necessary to check that the socket was not located directly behind the built-in electrical appliances.
- It is convenient to place sockets for lighting fixtures of wall cabinets at a height of about 5-10 cm above the furniture.
Important! The total power of the electric lines supplied to the kitchen must be with a margin in order to be able to turn on all consumption points at the same time.
- oven, hob are equipped with power outlets designed for a current of 32-40 A;
- a separate power line is laid for a heater with a power of more than 3.5 W;
- 16 A sockets are suitable for installing a refrigerator, microwave oven, food processor, toaster, double boiler and other electrical appliances.
Sockets and switches in the bedroom and living room
For comfortable and convenient use, it is customary to install an outlet and a switch on both sides of a double bed. Placement height - 70 cm from floor level. This distance allows you to plug in a lamp and place it on the bedside table, charge your phone, and control the main lighting without getting out of bed. Traditionally, one switch is installed at the front door.
Additional sockets must be placed near a desk or dressing table. At the desk at the level of 30 cm from the floor, a block is installed for two or three sockets for connecting a computer. A second block for a couple of outlets should be provided above the desk (15 cm from the desk) for a desk lamp.
In the living room, it is imperative to provide several outlets at a distance of 130 cm from the floor, which will be hidden behind the TV. This area should have both regular sockets and an Internet socket. Depending on the arrangement of furniture and the division of the room into functional zones, other "food points" are placed, for example, for a floor lamp near an armchair or a music system.
It will not be superfluous to install a backup outlet, for example, to connect an air conditioner or vacuum cleaner.
The switch in the living room is usually installed only at the front door. In rooms with multi-level ceilings, sometimes "complex" lighting is used. In such cases, it is advisable to place the switches on several keys.
Placing power points and switches in the bathroom
The bathroom is a room with high humidity. All installed sockets must have a degree of protection of at least IP44 and a splash-proof cover, connection through an RCD. Placing sockets near (less than 60 cm) a bathtub, washbasin or shower stall is prohibited.
- under a washing machine - 100 cm;
- for connecting a water heater - 180 cm from the floor;
- additional socket near the sink for connecting a hairdryer, razor or toothbrush - 110 cm.
Important! The products must not be installed below 15 cm from the floor. This is due to the fact that in the bathroom there is an increased risk of small floods triggered by malfunctioning household appliances or forgetfulness of the owners. So that this situation does not pose a threat to human life, the sockets must be installed above 15 cm.
Switches are usually placed outside the bathroom and placed in front of the entrance.
Development of a project for the placement of switches and sockets. Useful Tips
You can correctly design the location and height of switches and sockets by adhering to the following sequence:
Installation of switches and sockets in buildings for various purposes
For a number of buildings, individual norms for the placement of sockets and switches are provided:
- The installation height of switches in childcare facilities (kindergartens, schools, camps) is 1.8 m from floor level. Sockets should be installed at the same level.
- In catering and retail establishments, the distance from the floor to the outlet is 1.3 m. The installation height of the circuit breakers is 1.2-1.6 m.
- Installation of switches in hazardous areas is prohibited. The standards do not affect the height of the placement, the main condition is the placement of switches and fuses for lighting devices outside the hazardous areas.
Using simple rules, safety standards and common sense, it will be possible to achieve the optimal location of switches and outlets at home. It is better to correctly foresee and calculate everything in advance than to subsequently redo all the electrical wiring.
Both the construction of new housing and the overhaul of a house or apartment involves a considerable amount of electrical work. This includes organizing the input of a common power supply line, creating an earthing loop and potential equalization, installing a switchboard with an energy meter, laying indoor electrical networks and junction boxes, and, finally, installing lighting devices and custom electrical fittings - switches and sockets.
Generally speaking, this is, of course, a task for electricians. However, many work can be carried out independently, provided that the home craftsman has basic concepts in the field of physics, electrical engineering, the organization of internal power grids and the skills of general construction and electrical work. But it is also very important to know where exactly to place and at what height to install sockets and switches. There is a lot of controversy on this issue, but there are still certain official rules and unofficial recommendations that need to be dealt with in more detail.
The main parameters of the correct installation of sockets and switches
It should be noted right away that it is quite difficult to find exact uniform standards for the installation height of switches and sockets, for the simple reason that they do not exist. Any references to existing "European standards" are just a desire to copy the established fashion trend of "European-quality repair", the established tradition of installing electrical appliances in Western Europe.
By the way, the installation standards existed until some time - it was they that guided the builders when erecting residential buildings of mass multi-storey development. Then all the sockets were placed at a height of 900 ÷ 1000 mm from the floor surface (on level lowered hand), and switches - 1600 ÷ 1700 mm (on level eye). In most apartments of the old building, such a layout can still be seen. Many homeowners are accustomed to it, consider it comfortable and have no intention of remodeling it.
How these parameters are explained is difficult to say now. Perhaps this was due to safety reasons - all sockets with wires coming from them are always in the field of view of residents, and children cannot reach the switches. On the other hand, the most dangerous points - sockets, remain accessible to children, and there are no special safety considerations in this, but a child up to 8-10 years old cannot extinguish the light on his own. Another probable reason for such an installation was that it was always carried out in rooms on top of the walls, and such an arrangement of switches and sockets made it possible to significantly save on cable (in the scale of mass construction, which was carried out in those years, the savings were serious).
Nevertheless, today the adopted European standards are more popular, rather than the standards, but the traditions of installing these elements of electrical fittings. What are they?
Some building guides give the following recommendations (taking into account planning at the stage of building a house):
- Sockets - 400 ÷ 450 mm from the level of the subfloor (floor slabs). Thus, after pouring the screed and installing the final floor covering, the height will be about 300 mm.
- - 1000 ÷ 1050 mm from the rough surface, respectively, about 900 mm after finishing work.
How is it convenient? The sockets and included power cables do not catch the eye and do not spoil the appearance of the room, and you can turn on or off the light with your hand freely lowered downward. It is possible to teach children to be independent (of course, when supervised by adults) - the switch is within reach ...
It should be noted right away that such "standards" exist only for ordinary living rooms. In other places, for example, in kitchens, the rules will be completely different - this will be discussed below.
There are special requirements for the installation of sockets and switches in institutions related to children - in schools, kindergartens, etc. There, in order to avoid the actions of children with electricity uncontrolled by teachers or educators, these reinforcement elements are installed equally high - at a height of at least 1800 mm.
So, if we talk only about the height of the installation of sockets and in residential premises, then any owner of an apartment or house has three ways:
1 — When repairing, do not change the location of any sockets or switches, or carry out the initial installation according to the usual "Soviet standards" if it seems more convenient and safer.
2 — To alter the arrangement of reinforcement elements according to the European traditions, which were mentioned above.
3 — Provide your own location, based on personal preferences and amenities - this does not in any way contradict the existing rules.
There are much more restrictions and recommendations on other parameters for setting restrictions and recommendations - they are set out in the current rules for the operation of electrical installations (PUE), and they must be taken into account:
- The minimum installation height of sockets in residential premises is not regulated, the maximum is not higher than 1000 mm. Even their location at floor level is allowed - subject to the use of special skirting boards with cable channels made of non-combustible materials and special types of outlets.
Special socket for skirting - right at floor level - In industrial premises, however, it is recommended to install the sockets at a height of 800 to 1000 mm, and with the upper wiring of the network, they can be raised up to 1500 mm. It has already been said about children's and school institutions - at least 1800 mm from the floor level.
- In an apartment, especially when children live in it, it is strongly recommended (although not a mandatory rule) to use sockets with protective rods that automatically block the holes when pulling out the plug.
The optimal solution for apartments where young children live - sockets with protective curtains - Electrical wiring and electrical appliances should not be located closer than 500 mm from gas supply risers, closer than 100 mm from window or door openings, less than 150 mm from the level of the main ceiling. If installation is planned false ceiling(suspended or tensioned), then both the wiring and the junction box should be below its level.
- Installing sockets in bathrooms is not recommended. If, nevertheless, it is impossible to do without this, then it should be mounted at least 600 mm from the door of the shower stall or bathroom. In this case, a prerequisite is the use of special sockets for wet rooms (with increased body tightness and with spring-loaded protective covers), and with its obligatory power supply through a leakage current (differential current) of no more than 30 mA.
To finish the question with the bathroom, you can add that you should not install the sockets close to the floor surface. "Design" in such conditions does not play a special role, and it will be more convenient to use a hairdryer, curling iron or an electric razor from an outlet located at a height of one or even one and a half meters. At the same time, the placement of the outlet above the washbasin is absolutely excluded.
- Switches are usually mounted on the wall at the entrance, on the side of the door handles. Installation height - from 800 to 1700 mm. If necessary, you can install them higher, providing, for example, the ability to turn on using a cord. Very often in small rooms (in hallways, in kitchens, in rooms with a small area), sockets and switches have to be combined with blocks - then the optimal height of such a block is considered to be about 900 mm from the floor - the "golden mean".
In any case, no matter how the electrical fittings are located, it will be necessary to replace the old sockets with new ones, the so-called "European format"... They have a hole diameter - 0.8 mm wider than the old domestic ones, and the distance between the contact pins of the corresponding plug is several. Such sockets withstand much larger loads - usually they are designed for currents of 10 or 16 A, respectively, for a load of 2.2 kW or 3.5 kW, respectively. (For comparison, the old sockets withstood 6 A, that is, only 1.3 kW, which in the conditions of modern saturation of human life with electrical appliances is clearly not enough).
In addition, if the old outlet location is not connected to ground loop- you will have to deal with this closely - most modern electrical appliances have three-pin grounded plugs to ensure the safety of users (for some powerful household appliances, connection to ground loop is just a prerequisite). Several - in a special publication of our portal.
Video: where to place sockets and switches on the wall
Prices for sockets, switches and frames
Sockets, switches and frames
Some nuances of installing the cable part
Once a general repair is done, it is worth revising the cable part - if the wiring is aluminum, it is recommended to replace it with copper, with a cross-sectional area of at least 1.5 mm². This section should be sufficient for fairly high currents. True, if it is planned to install household appliances with increased power, it will be necessary to lay more powerful lines.
| Conductor cross-section copper wire, mm ² | maximum current at continuous load, A | maximum power load, kW | rated current triggering circuit breaker, A | limiting current triggering circuit breaker, A | scope of application at home (apartments) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1.5 | 19 | 4.1 | 10 | 16 | lighting devices, alarms |
| 2.7 | 27 | 5.9 | 16 | 25 | socket blocks, floor heating systems |
| 4 | 38 | 8.3 | 25 | 32 | climatic equipment, water heaters, washing machines and dishwashers |
| 6 | 46 | 10.1 | 32 | 40 | electric stoves and electric ovens |
| 10 | 70 | 15.4 | 50 | 63 | input power lines |
It probably makes sense to dwell a little on the correct placement of the wiring.
Each outlet (or socket block) must be powered from its own back box - Each outlet (group of outlets) or switch must be connected to an individual junction box. Make long hidden parallel connections from one to the outlet to the other is unreasonable, and in some cases it can even be dangerous - this can easily lead to a reset of this line with all the ensuing consequences.
- From junction boxes with sockets or switches, strictly vertical wiring must go. This can be explained simply - you can always visually determine the place of passage of power cables in the thickness of the wall. If the line is laid in an arbitrary order - at an angle (as in the figure, pos. No. 3) or even vertically, but with an offset (pos. No. 2) from the location of the outlet (switch), then it can become an object of latent danger.
After some time, and this happens quickly enough, the location of such non-standard wiring is forgotten even by its masters. Moreover, it will be a "surprise" for the new owners of the apartment. When you try, for example, to hang a mirror or a shelf harmlessly, there is a high probability that a drill will hit an energized power line with all the sad consequences - a short circuit and the need for large-scale repair of the wiring.
- But on the ceiling surface of the floor slab, if it is planned to install a suspended or stretch ceiling, the wiring can be placed arbitrarily, as a rule, at the shortest distance. If a NYM type cable is used, then it does not even require additional protective insulation - it can be attached directly to plastic dowel clamps... Cables of a different type (VVGng or VVG) are placed in a corrugated plastic pipe of the required diameter.
- On the floor, under its decorative covering, power cables can also be located arbitrarily, over the shortest distance. However, there are also special caveats here. So, if the floor is laid on wooden logs, then wiring, regardless of the type of cable, is allowed only in metal pipes, ordinary or corrugated.
If a screed is planned, then corrugated plastic pipes are enough If the wiring is to be filled with a concrete screed, then it is usually placed in a corrugated plastic pipe.
- The next question is how often should the sockets be installed, are there any regulations on this?
There is no specific answer. You can find recommendations - to install them 1 piece per 6 ÷ 10 square meters of area. However, most likely, these "standards" are somewhat outdated, since the equipment of housing with electrical appliances is constantly growing. Therefore, it is probably advisable to think over in advance the placement of the main devices and devices, to set a certain reserve in order to exclude the use of all kinds of tees or extension cords in the future. It is best if a plan is drawn up in advance with a fully thought-out arrangement of household items and the location of power points.
A well-designed diagram will be of great help in carrying out electrical installation work - And one more very important remark, or rather good advice. When carrying out repair and electrical work, you should not be too lazy to take pictures of all cable lines, the placement of junction boxes and other elements of the home electrical network, until they are hidden by plaster or finishing materials. It is advisable to take pictures so that it is possible to bind hidden objects to stationary elements. For example, with dimensioning from a window or doorway, a corner of a room, a heating riser, etc. - so that you can quickly and accurately find the desired unit if you need any emergency, repair or maintenance work.
If it is planned, then it is better to refer to a special publication of our portal, in which this issue is set out in more detail.
Prices for cables and wires for construction and repair
Cables and wires for construction and repair
Features of installing sockets and switches on kitchen
The kitchen is a special space for many reasons. Firstly, in terms of the degree of humidity and saturation with vapors, it differs significantly from all other rooms. And secondly, modern kitchen is the focus of the maximum concentration of all kinds of household appliances. Many electrical appliances are used at the same time during cooking or other household operations, therefore the level of the total load is usually the highest here.
The table below shows the characteristics of the main kitchen electrical appliances - you can estimate the level of energy consumption when doing certain household chores. Considering that many of them need separate power lines, then you can imagine how many connection points need to be equipped in the kitchen (it is clear that tees in such conditions absolutely unacceptable and pose a serious fire hazard):
| Household appliance type | Average power consumption | Features of connection to power supply |
|---|---|---|
| Electric stove or hob | from 3500 to 12000 W | Individually routed power line |
| Electric oven | from 2500 to 10000 W | similarly |
| Washing machine | from 1500 to 3000 W | similarly |
| Water heater | from 2500 to 7000 W | similarly |
| Dishwasher | from 1500 to 3500 W | similarly |
| Microwave | from 700 to 2500 W | Can be connected to a regular 16 A socket |
| Refrigerator (peak value - only at start-up) | from 500 to 2000 W | similarly |
| Electric kettle | from 700 to 1500 W | similarly |
| Food processor (combine) | from 500 to 1500 W | similarly |
| Bread maker, double boiler, etc. | from 700 to 2000 W | similarly |
| Toaster | up to 1000 W | similarly |
| Cooker hood | from 500 to 1500 W | similarly |
| Waste shredder | from 400 to 1000 W | similarly |
Obviously, a lot of sockets are needed. In addition, it makes sense to think about installing several additional switches - for example, for the waste grinder installed in the kitchen sink and for additional lighting of the workspace in the area of the cutting table, stove, sink.
Here, there can be no talk of any standards for the installation height of the sockets - their location should, first of all, to provide convenience, the ability to access when such a need arises, safety of use, maximum protection against moisture, for stationary equipment - the secrecy of the placement of wiring. There can be many options here - one of them is shown in the figure:
It is clear that there are a lot of options for placing built-in appliances, and if you add to this a variety of desktop electrical appliances and the peculiarities of their use (for example, there are housewives, which are the favorite kitchen accessories are constantly "registered" on the desktop), then, most likely, the spirit of absolutely identical schemes will not be found. Therefore, there can be no copying here - a plan for placing equipment and laying wiring to it is drawn up by each owner individually, but taking into account general principles.
- It has already been said about the power of the supplied power lines (cross-section of copper wires) - it is enough to compare the data from the first and second tables above. However, another figure is provided by which you can determine this issue.
An important condition is that the total power of all lines supplied to the kitchen should provide a large margin for the simultaneous inclusion of all consumption points. This in practice, of course, should not be allowed in any case, but insurance is still necessary.
- For the hob (electric stove) and for the oven ( ifthese are devices independent of each other) special power outlets are installed, designed for a maximum current of 32 - 40 A. The same is true if the stove and oven are dependent on each other.
Various models of power outlets for 32 and even 40 amperes - used for household appliances with increased power - If a storage water heater (boiler) with a capacity of over 3.5 kW is installed in the kitchen, then I remember connecting it also to a power outlet, or to an automatic machine installed on the wall in a protective box. This unit works in automatic mode almost constantly, and does not really need an outlet.
- The installation of sockets for other built-in household appliances can be provided at several levels:
— On the wall, on top not higher than 100 mm from the floor level - this will allow you to place these reinforcement elements behind a standard removable furniture plinth.
- In the cupboards of the kitchen unit - provided that this piece of furniture does not contain pull-out or folding elements - shelves, drawers, brackets, etc., which can catch the electric cable.
- On the walls under the sink - at the maximum possible distance from water and sewer pipes. In this case, the socket must be sealed with a moisture-proof cover.
- On the wall above the kitchen cabinets. There are usually sockets for hoods, additional lighting devices, sometimes for built-in microwave ovens or refrigerators. The height of the sockets in this case is not less than 50 mm above the level top surface cabinet.
- To connect desktop kitchen appliances, the sockets are placed on the wall, about 100 mm from the level (this, as a rule, falls at a height of 1150 mm from the floor level (if desired, it can be higher, up to 1400 mm). should be located above the sink or above the hob - they should be removed at least 250 ÷ 300 mm to the side.
Instead of such a wall-mounted arrangement of socket blocks, special retractable or folding modules have now begun to be actively used - in the form of opening "books" or sliding up to connect "columns" with sockets.
Hidden socket block in the form of an opening "book" It is very convenient - and the surface of the wall is "clean", and appears only as needed, and even when using the device, the connection point is removed from the table surface.
Another option for the hidden placement of sockets is a rising "column" What other principles should be considered when placing outlets:
- The socket for built-in equipment must never be located directly behind the installed appliance - it must be brought out to the side, upward or downward.
- The distance from the device to the power outlet must not exceed 1000 mm.
- All, without exception, the lines going to the kitchen must have their own circuit breakers and RCD devices.
When planning the laying of power lines in the kitchen, of course, you should proceed from the real characteristics of household appliances. Probably, it would be better to contact the electrical organization - specialists should help draw up a project taking into account all the nuances and safety requirements. Based on this diagram, it will be possible to draw up a drawing with the placement of the sockets "on the ground" - to determine the places for making the outlet bld in the wall and cutting out strobes for them.
It is possible that there will be an opportunity to save some money on laying lines. For example, if the total power of the washing machine and dishwasher does not exceed 4 kW, then they can be "put" on the same power line with a wire with a cross section of 2.5 mm². Often one line is sufficient for a refrigerator and a specific outlet group. However, the conclusions should still be made by a professional in this matter.
Video: not an easy task - the correct placement of sockets and switches in the kitchen
It is impossible to imagine a room without sockets. Moreover, if it is a kitchen, where a large number of household appliances are used that need power supply. How to place sockets and switches correctly in a limited area and how many are needed - a number of recommendations.
It is not necessary to plan the location of the sockets in the kitchen when the repair is completed and the arrangement of furniture and the connection of the stove and refrigerator begins. Ideally, choosing a place for sockets should be at the stage of planning a kitchen renovation. The project of the room and the overall design of the interior is closely related to the question of where to place the sockets, since they should be where the equipment will stand. And it is necessary to cut the walls for wiring, carry out wiring and install sockets before finishing the room, and not after the wallpaper and tiles are glued.
Therefore, before work, you need to make a plan where to mark the installation locations of the sockets, switches, where furniture and appliances will stand.
First of all, you will have to determine where to put:
- fridge;
- dishwasher;
- stove;
- hood;
- microwave oven;
- small household appliances such as a kettle, multicooker, bread machine and so on;
- television.
Important: do not forget that you will need an outlet to connect various appliances that have nothing to do with kitchen appliances - a vacuum cleaner for cleaning, chargers, a laptop. It is most convenient to make such an outlet in the area of the recreation area.
Based on this, the number of required outlets and their location is determined.
Optimal number
Before the wiring is done, you need to decide how many sockets you need in the kitchen before installing them. There is even a counting formula for this. Of course, the calculation will be conditional, but he will take into account the needs of the household and how many switches and sockets are needed quite accurately.
So, the optimal number of outlets that are supposed to be installed should exceed the number of electrical appliances for permanent use in the kitchen by 25%. The excess of the setting is laid down just so that there is where to turn on rarely used equipment - an electric meat grinder, mixer or blender. And there was no need to disconnect or pull on extension cords.
Mandatory electrical appliances, if available, include:
- fridge;
- electric or gas stove with electric ignition;
- television;
- Dishwasher;
- hood;
- microwave.
In some cases, they can also include an electric kettle or other small appliances that are used in this house every day. Based on how many switches and sockets are needed, then a project is made for an electrician in the kitchen.
Types of sockets
It is necessary not only to establish how many switches and sockets are needed, but also to choose the right sockets that are more suitable for the kitchen. The kitchen is characterized by high humidity and temperature changes. Therefore, sockets are installed here, which have a certain degree of moisture protection, ensuring the safety of work. Such devices include devices that have a seal and a cover and are classified as IP 44. Such European standard sockets are installed next to the stove, sink, working area - in a word, where there is a high risk of splashing.
In the rest of the kitchen, it is quite possible to install the most common sockets. If there are children in the house, then they must be equipped with protection from children - plastic curtains. Euro standard sockets are equipped with this option.
If we talk about ease of installation, then the priority here is for retractable and built-in sockets. Thanks to the swivel mechanism, the built-in sockets can be hidden or opened for use. Retractable European standard sockets can be installed on any surface, even vertical. They can be selected for installation on challenging surfaces.
Layout rules
There should be enough lines so that they provide power to the devices twice the size after installing all the sockets and switches. At the same time, the most powerful devices must be powered from their own line and have protective automation. These devices include a refrigerator, an electric stove.
All instruments with metal housings must be grounded as recommended by the wiring standard. This can be done independently or by instructing a specialist. You need to connect through the machine.
Be sure to choose wires with copper conductors for wiring. An aluminum conductor can quickly fail in a kitchen.
All sockets can be grouped. Each group of outlets must have its own automatic machine. This will provide additional security.
Where and at what height to install the sockets
Of course, next to those electrical appliances for which they were designed - the diagram should contain detailed information about this. One socket must be installed above the refrigerator, behind the refrigerator or next to it; one - next to the stove; one is next to the dishwasher. However, sockets and switches should not be behind the stove or in the immediate vicinity of the sink. One outlet should be near the TV stand.
You also need to install at least one outlet above the work surface of the countertop. And better - 2-3. In height, the sockets above the table are set 10 cm from the edge of the table.
In the presence of built-in appliances, the sockets are installed side by side at a height of 10 cm from the floor. The outlet for the hood is installed above it. It is impossible to place sockets behind built-in appliances. Eurostandard assumes the installation of sockets and switches at the bottom.
For the convenience of using the kitchen, you can choose double sockets and switches next to the table, below.
Wiring is a necessary stage in the installation of outlets, but before that it is necessary to decide at what height the switches will be.
The installation height depends primarily on the habits of the hostess and personal taste. Some people prefer when the sockets are at the bottom, while others find it inconvenient. It is necessary to choose the height and type of the outlet based on the convenience of everyone in the house.
Where sockets should not be placed:
- for built-in appliances and furniture;
- in wardrobes and cabinets;
- over the sink.
This is the accepted standard for electrical work.
The location of the sockets in the kitchen (video)
Conclusion
You can do the wiring yourself - it's not difficult, provided you know the basics of electrical engineering. If there is little knowledge, then it is best to entrust these works to professionals - electricians who know the standard of work. Then you can be sure that there will not be a fire in the wiring and fire.
The location of power points, the height of the outlets and switches is a serious issue that requires planning, drawing up diagrams, calculating their number for each room.
If you approach the installation with preliminary planning, then you will not have to unwind the extension cable, stumble over the carrier and connect everything there, thereby overloading the outlet or even the network.
Our material will help you determine the optimal number of electrical fittings and the rules for their location. We will also tell you about all the intricacies of placing and installing electrical outlets in an apartment or house.
It is estimated that each person uses approximately six different electrical appliances per day. And the number is constantly growing. New devices and gadgets appear, without which one can hardly imagine life.
Appliances fill our homes, and the number of outlets remains the same. Cases when a person runs in panic around the house or office, looking for a free connector for charging a smartphone, are more and more common. What is the bottom line? You have to turn off the printer or something else.
It is not difficult to avoid such situations, you just need to know how to correctly position the connectors. Then it will become as comfortable to use them as possible.
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We must not forget that products may be subject to even greater danger. Since the bathroom is at risk of flooding, it is completely unsafe to fix products below 150 mm from the floor. If water gets into the outlet, the threat to life is simply colossal.
The reasons for this can be various situations, from a leakage of a tap or pipe, to a breakdown of household appliances or forgetfulness of the owners.
# 3. The specifics of the installation in the living room
Home theater or simple, or better two. The first is for the TV receiver itself, and the second for the satellite receiver. The height level should be determined based on the location of the TV itself. It can stand on a pedestal, be built into the wall or fit into a special cell of the furniture wall.
The power cable must not hang down or be under tension. It should be completely hidden behind the screen.
#4. Location rules in the kitchen
Every year, more and more intelligent technology is being developed to ensure human comfort and time consumption. Naturally, the amount of equipment, and therefore in some places, is simply off scale. It is imperative to provide for the connection of an exhaust hood, possibly a washing machine, dishwasher, electric stove.
But the main thing is a refrigerator, microwave oven or multicooker, sometimes both. Mixer, juicer, food processor, toaster, blender, coffee maker and TV - the list is probably endless.