How and how you can insulate the house from the outside. External finishing of an adobe house and ventilation device Olga, Salsk, Rostov region

In order to protect from the rain, houses made of wood or adobe (clay with chopped straw) are often sheathed with boards that rot intensively. And plastering a wall containing organic matter is not only useless, but also harmful. The coating cracks, the wall stops "breathing" and a fungus appears.

A more reliable solution is the use of modern plastic lining (PV), plus competent wall ventilation. You can even lay insulation.

Here is a diagram of such a design (Fig. 1). Air through the ventilation hatch penetrates into the space between the cladding and the wall (or insulation), rises up and exits near the roof. In this case, it is important that the ventilation gap is at least 1-2 cm.

Cover it from above with fiberglass facade plaster mesh and nail it down with plastic washers (cut from 4 × 4 cm baklashki). We put a copper wire under the washers, tying the canvas.

We nail plaster shingles in the center. Maintenance of the wall is very simple: in the spring we open the hatches so that it dries properly, and we close it for the winter.

Attention!

It is impossible to use foam, pressed glass wool plates and mineral wool on aluminum foil for insulation - these are airtight coatings.

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What is the best way to insulate the house from the outside? This question worries all owners. The cool temperature in the living quarters in the cold season creates discomfort, in addition, finances are spent on additional heating, and this is impractical.

The line of modern heaters is large. To choose the right thermal insulation, you need to familiarize yourself with the technical characteristics of each.

External insulation: choice of material

The market for modern thermal insulation materials is large. These are synthetic and natural insulation. All of them differ from each other in technical characteristics - thermal conductivity, water absorption, specific gravity, installation methods, strength and others.

Among the natural materials for insulating a house outside, the following can be distinguished:

• adobe (clay + straw + additives);
• expanded clay (relevant if the owner decides to build an additional outer wall in half a brick);
• warm plaster.

The assortment of synthetic insulation, which can be used to sheathe the walls of the house from the outside, is wider:

• expanded polystyrene (regular and extruded);
• polyurethane foam;
• penoizol;
• mineral wool (basalt is preferable).

All heaters can be divided into two groups:

• for self-assembly;
• for professional installation.

The first include any types of plasters (adobe and warm), expanded polystyrene (polystyrene and expanded polystyrene), mineral wool, expanded clay.

Polyurethane foam can be attributed to the ideal thermal insulation of a house from the outside, but only specialists can sheathe (insulate) it, since the material belongs to sprayable.

The situation is similar with penoizol (urea foam). This is liquid thermal insulation, for the installation of which you need a special installation and high-quality protection of the insulation from moisture.

In order to choose the right material, you need to decide on some conditions:

• financial component;
• insulation quality;
• complexity / ease of installation.

The most expensive insulation is the insulation of a house outside with polyurethane foam. The cheapest option is polystyrene. In addition, it is lightweight, so self-assembly is available (you can sheathe the outside of the house in a day). This insulation does not need a crate; it is glued with special glue directly to the wall.

Advice. Expanded polystyrene (polystyrene / polystyrene foam) is demanding on the quality of the walls. Therefore, before insulating them, they need to be put in order - cleaned of the peeling old coating, check with a level for deviation from the horizontal and align, if necessary.

The next option for the price is mineral wool. It is not demanding on the evenness of the walls, but it requires double-sided waterproofing and the installation of a ventilated facade, which entails additional labor costs.

What kind of insulation should you prefer? To answer this question, you need to consider some of the technical characteristics of each of them, and also decide how difficult it is to sheathe the walls of the house from the outside with one or another material.

Expanded polystyrene

Polyfoam and polystyrene foam are representatives of expanded polystyrene. The differences between these heaters in price are significant. The same can be said about their technical characteristics:

• Thermal conductivity. For foam and foam, it is approximately the same, but the water absorption of the former is 4 times higher (4% per day) than of the latter. Penoplex almost does not absorb moisture, therefore it is recommended for insulating walls from the outside.

• Strength / fragility. Polyfoam is difficult to work with, as it is fragile and crumbles at the cut. Penoplex has a fine-mesh structure, besides, all cells are very firmly connected to each other, therefore the material is much stronger than foam in bending and compression. It can be cut with a regular or clerical knife, the cut will not crumble.

• Flammability. Expanded polystyrene refers to combustible insulation. However, their modern versions are produced using fire retardants, which significantly reduces the risk of accidental fire. When choosing a material, pay attention to the "G" marking. G1 is a hardly flammable, self-extinguishing insulation. There is also polystyrene specially for insulating facades - PSB-S-25F. The share of fire retardants in such a composition is significant, therefore it is prohibited to use it for insulation inside residential premises.

• Sensitive to solvents. Polyfoam and polystyrene foam are sensitive to organic solvents, therefore, to sheathe a house with them, polyurethane foam glue or dry compounds are used, which are mixed with water according to the instructions immediately before use.

• The need for finishing. Both types of polyurethane foams must be protected from weathering. For these purposes, plastering is used on a fiberglass mesh and further painting or plastering the bark beetle. It is permissible to use warm plaster as additional insulation outside.

Important ... Polyfoam and polystyrene foam are rather fragile insulation. Therefore, the layer of plaster should be small.

The disadvantage of such wall insulation is the love of rodents to arrange nests in expanded polystyrene. To prevent them from getting to the insulation, it is necessary to install a zero level from a metal profile. There is no other way to protect yourself from the penetration of mice into the insulation.

Mineral wool

This insulation is chosen by many and this is quite justified. Its technical characteristics are more than attractive:

• The material is available in various densities, which allows it to be sheathed not only for the wall of the house outside and inside, but also used for thermal insulation of the floor or roof.
• The form of release of mineral wool - mats, rolls, plates, as well as foil insulation.
• Basalt thermal insulation does not burn, withstanding heating up to 1000 ° C. This allows it to be used not only for wall insulation, but also for chimneys.
• The thermal conductivity of mineral wool is low.
• Water absorption is artificially reduced due to impregnation with water repellents, however, during installation, it is still necessary to install waterproofing on both sides of the insulation.
• Rodents are indifferent to cotton wool.
• The material is inert to most chemical and organic solvents.
• It is easy to work with cotton wool, so DIY installation is available.

The technology of installing mineral wool on walls from the outside and from the inside - on glue and frame. In the first case, finishing with plaster is done (wet facade system), in the second - with siding, block house, porcelain stoneware (hinged and ventilated facade systems).

Frame technology installation of mineral wool includes the following steps:

1. The wall of the house is treated with an antiseptic and dried.
2. Then waterproofing is installed and the bars of the vertical crate are stuffed.
3. The insulation is cut to size and installed in the niches of the lathing raspor (both "hanging" it and "protruding" is unacceptable).
4. After that, the mineral wool is tightened with a vapor barrier membrane.
5. You can additionally install horizontal guides that will fix the cotton wool in the niches.

Additional steps are not required to properly sheathe the outside of the house with mineral wool. The finishing of such insulation - siding, block house, porcelain stoneware - any options installed on a frame or lathing.

Expanded clay and adobe

Natural insulation is cheap, it is not a problem to purchase them. Therefore, quite often the owners of private houses choose them. In addition, they are environmentally friendly, breathe, which is attractive for many.

The walls of the house are insulated with expanded clay during the construction phase. You can do this after its completion, but for such insulation you need to lay out additional walls at a distance of about 20 cm from the main ones. You will get a well masonry. The space between the walls must be isolated from moisture and covered with expanded clay (mix the insulation of various fractions), then spilled with cement milk to reduce its settling and increase its strength.

Important ... As additional thermal insulation, walls already insulated with expanded clay can be finished with warm plaster from the outside.

Saman has been used to insulate the walls of houses for a long time. But the technology of its compilation is complicated. Nobody knows the exact recipe for the plaster composition, since much depends on the quality of the clay. Therefore, this method of insulating walls from the outside is considered difficult and time consuming (the master is experimenting every time). Insulated walls must be protected from moisture, so they are whitewashed with lime. The result of such insulation is an environmentally friendly house, which is pleasant to be in at any time of the year.

What material to stop on

After analyzing the installation technology and some of the qualities of heaters, it is easy to decide which one to choose. The easiest and cheapest way is to sheathe the outside of the house with Styrofoam. More expensive and better quality - penoplex. Mineral wool is a breathable material, but it requires a ventilated facade. Polyurethane foam is not picky about the quality of the walls, it adheres perfectly to them, completely insulates the house from the penetration of cold air and moisture, but the price of such insulation is high. Thermal insulation with natural materials - not for everybody. They are cheap, but they require significant labor costs.

Good day! I ask for help in repairing and insulating an old adobe house. House built in 37 years. Saman measuring 20x20x40. Over the years, it has become so dense that it has become like a stone. There was a need to disassemble part of the corner - they could hardly do it, so adobe blocks were firmly adhered to each other. But the house is cold. The windows were replaced with modern ones, slopes and window sills were repaired "conscientiously" - nowhere from them blows. The house is lined with bricks. The foundation is also adobe. The floor is cold. Heating from the boiler - there are batteries and PVC pipes in the rooms. But even with a frost of 10 degrees - the walls are cold. How to insulate a house?

Olga, Salsk, Rostov region.

Hello Olga from Salsk, Rostov region!

Unfortunately, I cannot be useful with anything real, except for advice. You live too far from me to come to you with workers and try to rectify the situation.

From the available practice, I can say the following. There are such buildings that, no matter how much they would insulate, they still remain cold.

And in order to create a comfortable temperature in the room, it is necessary to have a powerful heating system constantly working. Which is associated with high costs for fuel or other energy resources.

Let's digress first and speculate purely in theory.

You have a fairly solid adobe house lined with bricks on the outside, installed on the edge, which was done for its more beautiful decoration on the outside. Most likely, there is no insulation between adobe and brickwork. As a result, the walls make up an array that accumulates the temperature regime that is dictated mainly by the external temperature background.

It is clear that heating the interior space somewhat increases the temperature of the walls, but not sufficiently. In addition, the surface of the ceiling (indirectly and the attic and the roof) and the floor also has a significant effect on the temperature inside the room.

Based on these tedious theoretical conclusions, it follows that in order for the temperature inside the house to be tolerable for living in the very cold season, it is necessary to insulate, or rather to isolate the flow of cold along all these surfaces. Including windows and doors, which are conductors of cold.

You write that the windows are made to last and the cold does not pass through them. On the doors facing the street, there should also be thermal curtains, and in short, there should be tambours-adapters or some kind of curtains.

Therefore, it remains to insulate the walls, floor and ceiling.

Most often, when lining adobe walls with bricks in problem houses, insulation is placed between adobe and brick. Since you have not done this, you should insulate according to one of two options. Or outside the house. Or inside the house. For your case, the second option is most likely suitable. Because if you insulate outside, you will be tortured to heat the heating system.

Ideally, insulation in such cases is done as follows. The walls are sheathed with clapboard, which is mounted on lighthouses (cranial bar with a section of 75/50 millimeters). Insulation 50 millimeters thick is placed between the lighthouses. Then an air gap of 25 millimeters is left between the insulation and the lining. Insulation on both sides is lined with a vapor barrier film. The distance between the lighthouses is usually 600 millimeters, a multiple of the dimensions of most heaters.

That is, once again and in order, the entire technology of wall insulation.

A vapor barrier film is attached to the adobe walls. With self-tapping anchors, beacons 75/50 are attached to the walls and installed on the edge. Between the lighthouses, a heater is attached with "fungi" (self-tapping screws with plates or special purchased ones). A second layer of film is mounted on the lighthouses. An air gap of 25 millimeters is obtained between it and the insulation. The lining is nailed (instead of it, other materials such as plywood, various panels, plates, etc. can be installed)

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside of the room is carried out in the same way as the insulation of walls. In addition, in the attic space, the floor can also be insulated by laying insulation (from expanded clay and ending with mineral plates or rolls).

Floor insulation is a special conversation. This insulation is sometimes more important than wall insulation, since there is not always a warm basement or underground under the house. If possible, then both the basement and the ceiling above the basement are insulated in approximately the same way as described above. If there is no basement, no underground floor, then a radical alteration is not excluded. When the entire old floor is opened to a decent depth.

That is, floor boards, logs are dismantled, soil is removed to a certain depth. After that, a new floor is mounted in the form of a puff cake. The soil is leveled, waterproofing from roofing material or its analogs is laid. Approximately 15 cm layer of expanded clay is filled in. Then a reinforced concrete screed with a thickness of 5 and more centimeters is made. Lay the genital lags, antiseptic. Lay the floor.

It is clear that all this is quite time-consuming and costly. It is associated with many inconveniences in removing furniture or dragging it from place to place, so as not to interfere with work. Possible dismantling of pipes of the heating system and its batteries, since it is necessary to move them from the old walls by an amount of 75 millimeters plus the thickness of the wall material. The internal usable volume of the room will also be reduced by double this size. It is also possible to reduce the height of the room by lowering the ceiling surface and raising the floor.

But in the end, the thermal regime inside the room rises and you will feel yourself much better than before.

There are, of course, many other insulation options. But the given one is the most frequently used one.

Other questions about adobe houses.

Those living in adobe buildings note that due to the high massiveness and thermal inertia of the walls made of heavy adobe, in summer they are cool, and in winter, fluctuations in the outside temperature have little effect on the temperature in the house. However, walls made of heavy material are not always energy efficient enough, and they have to be insulated.

Heavy monolithic walls or built of blocks in terms of strength may not be inferior to brick
A wall made of heavy adobe, dense and without voids (density 1200-1600 kg / m³), ​​is close in terms of its thermal conductivity to effective (hollow) brick or foam concrete (depending on the ratio of clay and straw in the material) and has a thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.3- 0.6 W / (m × оС).

The more straw it contains, the warmer it will be.

In the conditions of Ukraine, the thickness of the wall with such a thermal conductivity of the material should be about a meter, which is difficult to implement and unprofitable in terms of labor costs.

Therefore, a wall of heavy adobe is usually made 40-50 cm thick, and then insulated and plastered.
Saman requires the use of vapor-permeable insulation. Expanded polystyrene is excluded, mineral wool enthusiasts of adobe construction consider non-ecological.

Experts recommend using reeds (reeds), which do not absorb moisture, do not rot and have a tubular structure with air inside the stems. It is used in the form of mats, laid in a layer of at least 10 cm and firmly fixed to the wall with dowels.

There is a lot of straw in light adobe, so it cannot be used for the construction of supporting structures and requires a frame.

On top of the insulation, 2-3 cm of clay or lime plaster is applied (the latter is more durable).

The coldest places in any home are the corners.

The advantage of adobe technology is the ability to avoid problem areas by making rounded corners of the outer walls, slightly increasing their thickness.

Light adobe

Walls made of lightweight material do not have a high inertia, but they have a high energy-saving capacity (at a density of 500 kg / m³ and below, the material can be used as a heat insulator).

Their thickness can be 25 cm, but blowing through is possible (like shell rock) and, as a rule, the walls are made 30-40 cm thick. The denser the adobe is rammed, the warmer the structure.
Due to the fact that the structure of the walls has a frame, the density of light adobe can be significantly reduced, achieving a high level of thermal insulation with a thin wall. Even with a wall thickness of 25 cm, the house does not require insulation.

However, in this case, it is important to use a strong plaster and exclude the formation of cracks in order to avoid blowing through.

Cracks can occur when the material is loosely laid and shrinks around the window frames, in the places where the adobe comes into contact with the frame, when the plaster cracks. However, they are easy to cover up, to renovate the plaster (the adobe house is easy to repair).

Expanded clay or light adobe is usually used to insulate the floor in the house.