The interior door serves to divide the space in the room, and also provides sound insulation in a private house or apartment. In addition, the door leaf is an important detail of the interior, therefore, it must correspond to the style of decoration. Since installation work is quite expensive, the question arises of how to properly install interior doors with your own hands. The answer is in the detailed step-by-step instructions on this page.
Dimensions and equipment
According to the method of opening, the doors are folding, sliding and swing. The latter are the most popular, since they are structurally the simplest and fairly easy to install. They are presented in a large number of modifications. By the way of opening, the following are distinguished:
- two-leaf and single-leaf;
- left- and right-sided.
Step 3: Installing the box and hanging the canvas
The box must be installed in a pre-prepared opening. The hinge stand should be leveled first with a plumb line or level. It is imperative to check it from all sides. Then the top bar and the stand must be spread out with wedges. The stand will only be exposed when it is upright.
Next, the second rack is wedged. Be sure to check the horizontal part of the box.
The old way is that the side posts have to be drilled through. For this, holes for dowels are initially made in the wall. The box must be fixed to the wall with self-tapping screws at least 150 mm long.
Old way fasteners In order to fix the box in the opening in a hidden way, you can use metal plates, which are usually used for installing plasterboard structures. Most often, these plates are used in conjunction with anchors. In this case, it is worth choosing the number of fasteners in accordance with the expected load.
This is what the mount looks like The use of such plates is a non-standard method and is possible only in the absence of finishing. It is recommended to grind out a section of the wall in order to subsequently putty the fasteners.
It remains to hang the door on the frame. After that, you need to carry out the final adjustment of the box. The padlock post must then fit under the door so that it does not protrude over the wall. It is worth remembering that in order to preserve the integrity of the box and the canvas, you must first drill several holes for the screws.
Step 4: foaming
After fixing the canvas, you need to foam the gaps between the box and the edges of the opening. The foam should be fed neatly, in layers, while feeding from the top so that it does not come out. Then the door will have to be closed and not touched for a certain time in order for the foam to dry. The approximate drying time is 1 day.
If the composition accidentally falls on the canvas, immediately remove it with a clean dry cloth, the dried fragments are cleaned with effective ones.
Step 5: Installing the lock and handles in the door leaf
The most popular today are handles with a built-in lock. The order of work is as follows:
- Mark one meter from the floor. The handle mechanism must be attached so that the mark is visible on the top of the hole.
- Drill holes in the web from the end. The edges of the holes should then be cut off with a chisel to align the hole.
- Insert the mechanism into the hole. In this case, the lock must be aligned, and then fixed with self-tapping screws. The plank on the lock should be outlined with a pencil for cutting the veneer, then the mechanism should be removed. Along the outlined contour, you need to select a site to determine the thickness of the key strip. This is done by using a chisel.
- Drill holes for latch and handles. You need to attach the lock to the canvas from different sides, align it and mark it out. Holes must be made on both sides and they must not be through.
- Remove the formed shavings and install the handles.
Step 6: Install the expansion strips
A plank is called a plank approximately 2 meters long, 250 mm wide, and no more than 3 cm thick. The plank should be used during the installation of interior doors if the wall is thicker than the door frame.
The timber for the box is made in a standard width - about 70 mm. It can be expanded according to the thickness of the opening with an extension. This will allow you to more clearly align the box and walls. There is a groove for the bar on the bar. First, it is necessary to measure the distance to the edge of the wall, starting from the depth of the groove.
The addon can be installed in different ways:
- into the groove in the box;
- with cutting a groove in the absence of a finished one;
- attaching an extension from the inside of a bar in the absence of a groove, the box is installed together with the extension;
- fastening of an extension in the form of "P";
- if the extension is not too wide and there is no groove in the box, the bar should be drilled and screwed to the box.
The plank is sawn into several parts with a circular saw to obtain several extensions of the required dimensions. You need to prepare one short bar and two vertical ones. Check out our easy step-by-step guide to.
Step 7: Fastening the platbands
During the installation of the platbands, the box must be level with the opening on the front side. To connect the platbands, you must first attach the vertical bar to the box and place the mark 0.5 cm higher, retreating from the crossbar of the box. This mark will act as the cutting edge. In the same way, you need to mark the slice on the other side.
The final stage of any major overhaul in an apartment is the replacement of interior doors. Interior doors, as a rule, are an order of magnitude cheaper than entrance doors, but to update the interior or completely change the design, you cannot do without replacing them. They are most often changed in a complex manner, even when it comes to a small one-two-room apartment.
Interior door installation technology. Video
Depending on what material the doors are made of and what kind of design they have, the installation technology will also depend. Since the question arose about replacing interior doors, a choice between the types of structures will be inevitable. The correct interior door can save space in the apartment, if you give preference not to simple single-leaf swing doors, but sliding ones, you can also consider installing an accordion door.
The simplest design without glass for interior doors is made of type-setting fabric. Most often, the door leaf is made of coniferous wood and almost all economy-class doors are faced with wood-felt board. Fiberboard can be either profiled or simple, depending on the price category. The cheapest doors have a textured surface for painting, and the more expensive models will already be veneered.
Depending on the price category of the door, it can be equipped with a door frame, hinges and fittings. But most often, even in standard apartments of panel houses, it takes a long time to adjust the door to the frame, since the nominal dimensions were not always respected, which is why, before starting to install the door, you need to prepare the opening.
Preparing the premises for installation
The floor should already be taken out in the room, and the walls should be prepared for finishing, they should be plastered or putty. The door frame must be installed after all the wet finishing work has been carried out, otherwise it can be led, warped, especially in the lower part, which can cause unnecessary problems.
The door frame can be sold together with the door leaf, or it can be sold separately. In the case when the box is purchased separately, it is very important to pay attention to the thickness of the door leaf and the condition of the racks from which the box will be assembled. Curvature and cracks are not allowed, the presence of knots on the elements of the door frame is also undesirable.
Nice hinges and necessary tools
Loops should not be overlooked. Despite the fact that the hinges on the interior doors do not carry a special load, it is better to choose models that are detachable and more expensive. Saving on hinges will add hassle in the future, and if the door is relatively heavy, then it is better to install not two, but three hinges. As a rule, those self-tapping screws that are sold complete with hinges are worthless. They are disposable and made from low quality steel. It is better to immediately replace them with proven good self-tapping screws of a suitable configuration.
To install interior doors with your own hands, you will need a minimum set of tools:
- construction level;
- drill or screwdriver;
- tape measure, ruler, square, marker;
- construction foam;
- a set of chisels or an electric tool that replaces them;
- miter saw or miter box with a hand saw for wood;
- planer or router.
Installation of the door block begins with marking the frame racks. The inner size of the box under the door must be 3-4 mm larger than the dimensions of the door itself, and the distance from the bottom edge of the door to the floor must be at least 10 mm. The rack is marked, and then sawn off at an angle of 45 degrees with a miter saw and a hand saw for wood. The assembly diagram is shown in the figure - self-tapping screws or wooden pins are used for assembly. The top strip of the door frame is also cut according to the same principle - on the side of the lock and on the side of the hinges, the gaps should be 4-5 mm each.
It is more convenient to embed the hinges and the lock when the box and the door are still in your hands, so first you need to measure 20 cm from the top and 21 from the bottom along the edge of the door and along the inside of the rack on which the hinges will be attached. The hinge is attached to two self-tapping screws temporarily on the door frame, after which it is drawn around the contour with a pencil. The hinge can be removed and a groove in the rack can be made using a chisel. The depth should be such that the loop is completely hidden in thickness.
It remains only to assemble the door frame and fix it in the doorway. As a rule, interior doors are reinforced with foam, but for reliability it is advisable to fix the box with large self-tapping screws or anchors to the wall. The box is set strictly according to the level and fixed temporarily with pieces of drywall, polystyrene, boards, after which the free space is filled with foam.
The self-tapping screws for fixing the box to the wall are best placed on the hinge platforms and on the pad for fixing the lock. So the self-tapping screws will not be visible, and three points are enough for a solid fastening. You can hang the door and foam the space between the box and the wall. After checking the performance of the structure, the box is closed with platbands, which can be attached to glue or thin nails.
The structure is installed, it remains only to lubricate the hinges and decide which lock will be needed for the door. Successful repairs to everyone!
The correct doorway will save you from problems when installing doors, save time and nerves, and provide the door with a flawless appearance. This material will describe 5 problems that can arise with an improperly prepared doorway.
After the doors are installed, you find:
Problem # 1: Doors open less than 90 degrees and there is a danger of bumping sideways on the doorknob
This situation occurs when the doorway is adjacent to the wall and the doors open onto this wall. As you can see in the picture, the doors do not open completely. In such a situation, if we go straight, we can easily tear the clothes, catching on the handle, or bump sideways on this handle in a hurry.
But even if you install doors with the opening in the other direction, where there is no wall, then the very corner of the abutment to the wall will look chopped off. The side trims will not be symmetrical because the platband against the wall will have to be sawed lengthwise to narrow it so that it fits.
Therefore, if you yourself form the doorway in the wall, then it should be independent, i.e. do not adjoin the wall, but retreat from it at least 100 mm. In this case, the swinging interior door will swing open more than 95 degrees when the door is opened towards the wall.
Problem # 2: The purchased door does not fit into the doorway either in height or in width
The buyer often has two questions: A doorway with a width of, for example, 900 mm, what width is the door leaf suitable for? Door leaf 800 mm wide, how wide should the doorway be?
The difference between the door leaf and the doorway should be 80-100 mm in width and 60-80 mm in height from the finished floor. The instructions for self-measuring doorways describe in detail all possible situations of doorway dimensions.
Problem # 3: Platbands don't fit snugly against the wall
The wall at the doorway should be vertically flat. If the wall is tilted or bent, then there will be a gap between the platbands and the wall, since the platbands are attached to the door frame, which must be installed exactly vertically, otherwise the doors will close or open themselves from the tilt.
If you or your employees leveled the walls during the repair, then you need to check the correctness of the work done near the doorways. The evenness of the walls is most important in those places in which something will adjoin them.
Problem # 4: The gap in the floor between the platbands and the laminate
Renovation in the house will have an unfinished look without installing an interior element such as a door. They protect the living space from external negative factors, contribute to heat and sound insulation, bring coziness and comfort. Ordinary, at first glance, they differ in material, shape, color, design, have many classifications and types. Despite their differences, all doors require certain knowledge and skills to install them. This is a very painstaking and highly accurate work for a team of two people. Despite the complexity of the work, installing doors with your own hands is quite within the power of anyone who skillfully handles the tool. The main thing is to do everything gradually, measuredly, without haste, observing the rules for installing doors.
- Measurements, selection, purchase of doors.
- Preparing the opening for the installation of a new door.
- Installation of hinges and a lock on the door leaf.
- Assembling the door frame.
- Installation of additional elements.
- Fastening the door frame in the doorway.
- The connection of the door leaf with the frame.
- Fixing the structure with polyurethane foam.
- Fastening fittings and platbands.
To complete the work, you will need a certain tool:
- hammer;
- chisels 16 and 20 mm;
- roulette;
- crowbar;
- level;
- screwdriver and screwdriver;
- a hacksaw for wood with fine teeth;
- miter box;
- drill and hammer drill;
- if possible a milling machine, circular.
Door installation materials:
- door leaf and door frame;
- door fittings (handles, hinges, locks);
- polyurethane foam;
- wedges;
- nails, screws and dowels.
Plastered and prepared door slopes
Before installing the door, prepare the installation site. If there is an old door, then we dismantle it. To do this, using a crowbar, avoiding strong and abrupt movements, we first remove the platbands. Carefully lift and remove the old door leaf from the hinges. With the help of the same crowbar, we dismantle the door frame, to facilitate the process, we saw the box in several places with a hacksaw. Quite often, in houses, the door frame was cemented. And to remove it, you have to break the cement with a hammer.
The slopes can be leveled and plastered to facilitate installation of the door. At the end of the preparation, we clean the doorway from construction debris. If the doorway has never been used, then you can immediately start measuring it.
Measurements, selection, purchase
To purchase the desired door, you will need dimensions in height and width, as well as the dimensions of the slopes of the doorway. Since in most cases the doorway has uneven edges, you should take measurements in several places and choose the smallest size.
Putting on the floor covering for the correct installation of the box
Important! When taking measurements, you should take into account the gap between the door frame and the doorway. It should be 10-15 mm. It is recommended to install the doors after laying the floor covering, if there is none yet, then the dimensions should include the height of the floor covering and the gap between the floor and the door. For a more visual measurement, you can put parts of the floor covering in the doorway. This is necessary in order to know the exact level of the floor, the free play of the door depends on it. The gap between the door and the floor is usually 10 mm.
Now that the old doors have been dismantled, the dimensions have been taken, and the slopes have been leveled and plastered, the doors can be ordered. As a rule, the doors have standard dimensions, but if necessary, you can make an individual order based on the dimensions of the doorway.
To choose the right doors, you need to know their types and purpose. For installation in a house, you should pay attention to the entrance, interior and, if necessary, to the kitchen doors.
We also choose according to the opening method. The most popular option is swing doors. Doors are made using approximately the same technology - strapping and internal filling. The power structure or skeleton of the door, where the lock is inserted and the hinges are attached, is sheathed with fiberboard, MDF or other material, and the internal space is filled.
There are several door designs - solid, paneled and smooth.
Smooth doors, they are also panel boards, can be made with an outer layer of MDF and fiberboard, sometimes such doors are sheathed with plastic. They are usually painted, veneered or laminated. The price of such doors varies depending on the materials and the method of cladding. The most practical and affordable are laminated doors. Painted doors can be both cheap and expensive. It all depends on the type of material and the method of painting. The most expensive are doors faced with natural veneer.
Paneled doors They stand out for their open design and the presence of patterns, patterned carvings and stained-glass windows. Such doors can be filled with glass, carved panels, and other materials. They are made from a solid array of valuable wood species or combined materials. The prices for paneled doors depend on the type of materials. The cheapest and most affordable are made from soft wood, as well as from combined materials (MDF, HDF).
Solid wood doors made from valuable wood species. This primarily affects their price and weight, they are very high. The doors are covered with varnishes and various impregnations, thus they are well protected from damage by insects, fungi and mold.
Having selected the necessary doors and received them, we proceed to the step-by-step installation of the doors.
After purchase, we unpack the door leaf, platbands, door frame, accessories, fittings. We carefully check everything for cracks, chips or other damage. Until the lock, hinges or other door hardware is cut in, the doors can be returned to the manufacturer.
Preparation of places for fastening the lock and hinges
Installation of the door leaf on the floor for easy cutting with a cutter
Lock hole
Before assembling the door frame, mark and select with a cutter or chisel the place for attaching the hinges and the lock on the door leaf and upright. To do this, we set the door leaf in a vertical position on the wide side in special supports. In order not to damage the canvas, the inner side of the supports is upholstered with fabric. We attach the lock and outline the place of its installation with a pencil. To make it convenient to use the lock, we install it at a height of 900 mm from the floor. To install the hinges, measure 200 mm from the lower and upper edges of the door. We apply hinges and mark the place for milling. Using a hand cutter or chisel, we select the excess so that the hinges and the lock lie flush. We put them back on and drill holes for self-tapping screws with a drill.
Finally, we apply the vertical post to the door leaf in such a way that a gap of 2-3 mm remains between the horizontal crossbar of the door frame and the door leaf. We mark the place of attachment of the hinges and the place for the lock tongue and select the excess using a milling machine or chisel. We apply hinges and drill holes for self-tapping screws.
Important! Places for the lock and hinges after sampling with a cutter or chisel must be varnished. In this simple way, the tree will be protected from the effects of moisture. It should be remembered that entrance and heavy doors are mounted on three hinges, and for interior doors, two hinges will be enough.
Installing hinges and lock
When the places for the lock and hinges are selected with a cutter, you can start installing them.
With hinges, things are simple. They just need to be screwed to the door leaf.
Embedded lock
Installing a lock, on the other hand, will require some effort. In order for the lock to become correct, it is applied to the side of the door and, like a stencil, holes for handles, shut-off valves and fasteners are marked. Using a cutter or chisel, we select a place for the lock to the desired depth. Then we put it in place and fasten it.
Important! When choosing a lock, you should take into account the width of the door post bar. The depth of the hole for the lock should not exceed 1/3 of its width, otherwise deformation of the door leaf cannot be avoided.
Starting to assemble the door frame, we measure the vertical posts in height and cut them with a miter box. Horizontal beams are made to fit the size of the door leaf.
Since the collection of the box requires a lot of free space, the collection process itself is carried out on the floor. In order not to accidentally damage the door frame on the floor, we put two or three wooden slats under the racks along the entire length of the door leaf.
We apply a horizontal bar to the uprights. The joints can be tapped slightly with a hammer for a better connection, and using a screwdriver we fix the box by screwing the self-tapping screws into the corner joints.
Important! There are doors with a pre-assembled door frame. Installation of these doors is very simple. In this case, the door frame is simply fitted into the doorway and fixed in it.
Fastening of additional parts
If the width of the door turns out to be a few centimeters less than the door slope, add-ons should be installed. You can do without installing them, but then you will have to completely make slopes, and over time, chips and dirt appear on them. Therefore, the installation of extras in such cases is the best way out of the situation.
Planks of the same color as the door, with a thickness of 8 to 12 mm, are used as add-ons. When fixed, they form a small portal, with edges matching the edges of the wall.
Installation of the add-on is carried out as follows. Using a cutter or chisel in the door frame, a quarter of 10x10 mm or 8x8 mm is selected, depending on the thickness of the additional strips. We do this along the entire outer contour of the door frame. We cut the vertical planks of the extension along the height of the box, as well as the horizontal plank of the extension. We install the door frame in place and fix it, then we install the planks of the extensions in the trimmed quarters. We attach the strips themselves to the slope using dowels and self-tapping screws.
Installation of the door frame in the opening
After completing the assembly of the door frame, we proceed to install it in the doorway.
Fixing the door frame with wedges from above
We put the box inside the opening and fix it with wedges, 2-3 wedges for each post and 2 for the crossbar. Align the door frame vertically and horizontally. You can adjust the incline level by lightly hitting the wedges. You can now secure the box. To do this, we drill holes in the rack and wall with a drill or puncher. It remains to put the dowels and screw the box with self-tapping screws.
Important! Wedges are best made of wood of the same density as the door frame.
Hanging the door leaf
After installing the box, we proceed to hanging the door. First of all, we fasten the hinges to the previously prepared places. For this, so-called card (plate) split hinges with a removable rod or a rod embedded in a hinge are usually used. There are also one-piece loops, but they are used less often. In the case of a rod embedded in the hinge, the door leaf can be installed or removed by just gently lifting it to a small height of the rod. If the design of the door frame does not allow the doors to be lifted, one-piece hinges or hinges with a removable rod are used. To install one-piece hinges, you just need to fix them on the frame, and then screw them to the door leaf. To install or remove the door leaf from the hinges with a removable rod, it is necessary to remove the rod from the hinge and then insert it back.
Now that the hinges are attached, you can put the door leaf in place. It is best to do this together, when one person holds the doors in weight, and the second fixes the one-piece hinges with self-tapping screws or guides them into place in the case of collapsible hinges.
Important! When choosing hinges, you should pay attention to which direction the doors will open.
We fill the gap between the doorway and the frame with foam, which increases the heat and sound insulation of the doorway. This material allows you to fill all small cracks and crevices. The foam is easy to use and can be easily applied to any surface, and thanks to its astringent properties, the structure will be stronger.
Before filling the gap between the doorway and the door frame, protect the door frame from foam accidentally falling on it. To protect the box, it is pasted over with foil or masking tape. If, nevertheless, foam gets on the door frame, then fresh foam can be cleaned with any alcohol-based solution or solvent. But the hardened foam can only be removed mechanically, which is fraught with scratches and abrasions.
Polyurethane foam has the property of increasing in size from 50% to 250%, which can lead to deformation of the door frame. To prevent this from happening, spacers are installed between the vertical posts or thick cardboard is laid between the already installed and tightly closed door leaf and the door frame. Before filling with foam, the container with foam should be shaken thoroughly for a minute. For better adhesion of the foam to the surface, the opening and the outer side of the door frame can be slightly moistened with water. The main thing is not to overdo it, otherwise the effect will be exactly the opposite.
For reinsurance against deformation and distortions of the door frame, it is better to apply polyurethane foam in two stages. For the first run, the foam is applied pointwise. After letting the foam harden, the remaining voids can be filled in 1-3 hours. Cut off excess polyurethane foam after it has completely hardened.
Important! In the case when the gap between the opening and the door frame is too narrow, the pipe of the polyurethane foam sprayer can be flattened a little, this will make it more convenient, and most importantly, to fill all the voids with high quality.
If the gap between the doorway and the frame is large, 8-9 cm or more, then we lay the free space with a suitable material (wood, drywall, etc.) and only then fill it with foam.
The vertical gap should be filled with foam starting from the bottom and gradually working upwards. Thus, the foam will create support for itself. In the case of additions, additional spacers should be installed on them to avoid deformation.
Installation of platbands and door fittings
At the final stage of door installation, platbands are installed. First, trim the platband in height, then trim the upper edge of the vertical platbands at an angle of 45 degrees. We make the same 45-degree trim for the horizontal casing at both ends. We use a miter box for these operations. You can fix the platband with small nails or universal assembly glue.
Applying glue to the casing
Installing the platband on the door frame
To install, you need a tool and basic construction skills. The quality of the work performed depends on accurate measurements. The slightest distortions will lead to jamming of the sash, the formation of cracks. Door blocks are sold assembled or disassembled. In the second case, the installation will be more difficult due to the need for self-assembly of the pipe.
The door installation begins with the preparation of the tool. For installation work you will need:
- To put the door straight, you need a plumb line and a level. For measurements, as well as for marking, use a tape measure with a pencil.
- The process of assembling and installing interior doors includes the final finishing with platbands, and, if necessary, additions. A hacksaw with fine teeth, a miter box is useful for cutting slats.
- From a power tool, you need a drill with a set of drills for concrete and wood, as well as a screwdriver.
- It is easier to make selections for fittings with a milling cutter, but in the absence of a tool, you can do with a chisel and a hammer.
Of the materials used are self-tapping screws, foam, as well as many wooden wedges of different thicknesses for spacers. Immediately you need to decide how to put the interior doors so that the fasteners are not visible.
If preference is given to hidden installation, suspensions are additionally purchased. You can fix the bow with anchors. Drown the hats in the secret holes, putty, and paint over on top.
How to install an interior door with your own hands?
If you know how to use the tool, you can do the door installation yourself. It is important to initially make all accurate measurements in order to avoid distortions. In general terms, the procedure for installing an interior door consists of the following processes:
- If the frame is sold disassembled, it will have to be reassembled. This work increases the installation time of the interior door, and also complicates the process.
- All elements of the door block are equipped with fittings: handles, locks, latches. On a system consisting of rollers and a guide rail. When installing a swing door, the door leaf is attached with hinges.
- After assembling the structure, the installation of doors in the apartment begins with. In the opening, the frame is fixed with anchors or hangers, and the gaps are blown out with foam.
- The sash is hung on the installed pipe, the adjustment is carried out, and it is set with.
To perform the correct installation of the interior door with your own hands, even before buying a door block, for sure. The dimensions of the frame should be less from the passage, otherwise it will have to be. It is optimal to maintain the gaps when installing the interior door between the roof and the wall - from 10 to 40 mm.
Mandatory, but necessary if the depth of the opening exceeds the size of the frame. The protruding sections of the wall are hidden under decorative strips. Step-by-step instructions will help you better understand the installation process.
Assembling the box
The installation of the interior door begins with unpacking the purchased block, inspecting all the components. The door hatch can be sold assembled or disassembled into separate elements with fastening grooves.
If you purchased a tin with ready-made fasteners, you only need to assemble it. The frame is sold from sawn to size elements. There can be three of them: a false and hinged rack, as well as a lintel top bar. If a nut is provided, then a fourth element is included in the kit.
To assemble the frame, plugs are knocked out of the ends of the racks together with the connecting pins. The edges of the vertical and horizontal frame members are joined so that the mounting holes match. The connecting pins are hammered in with a hammer, and the holes are closed with plugs.
When knocking out the plugs, the blows are applied through the wooden linings in order to prevent destruction of the decorative coating.
Much more difficult, sold in the form of blanks from figured veneered timber. You will need a woodworking tool as well as a basic knowledge of joinery. consists of the following steps:
- First, measure the sash. The length of the frame elements is calculated so that a gap of 3 mm is formed between the inside of the well and the canvas along the entire perimeter. If it is planned to install a sealing gum, the size of the gap is calculated taking into account its thickness.
- The workpieces are marked, then sawn with a hacksaw on wood with fine teeth at an angle of 45 or 90 degrees. Direct docking is easier. To properly saw off the corner, the workpiece is placed in a miter box. Connect the prepared elements of the box with long self-tapping screws, pre-drilling the holes.
- It is easier for an inexperienced person to start installing doors without a threshold, since you have to connect only three elements. The shape of the box is made in the form of the letter "P". The edges of the upper lintel are placed on the ends of the racks. Each joint is fixed with two self-tapping screws.
- The sash is placed in the finished frame. Measure the gaps between the door and the frame on three sides, adhering to the required 3 mm. The uprights will rest on the floor from below. The length is calculated so that a gap of 8-15 mm is obtained between the floor covering and the bottom end of the sash.
- To install the threshold for an interior door, the frame is assembled from four elements. The lower jumper is inserted between the posts, then fixed with self-tapping screws. The gap between the sill and the end of the sash is maintained at 3 mm.
After making the box, the door leaf is laid. Having retreated from above and below 25 cm, on the hinge stand, as well as the end of the sash, mark the mounting locations of the hinges. So that the fastening plates do not protrude, recesses are chosen in the wood with a chisel or milling cutter.
Two ways to install the box
Open way provides with anchors. The frame is inserted into the opening. Set vertically and horizontally. All measurements are carried out with a level, as well as a plumb line. Observing a gap of 10 to 40 mm, wooden wedges are driven in between the box and the walls. By knocking or loosening the struts, the frame is perfectly flat.
From the inside of the box with a pitch of 50-60 cm, through holes are drilled with countersunk grooves. Holes are made in the wall with a drill for concrete. The anchors are screwed in so that the cap disappears inside the secret recess. After a level check, the gap between the wall and the frame is blown out with foam. Secret holes are putty and then painted over.
Second closed way installation of the box involves the use of suspensions used in the manufacture of a frame for drywall, or a special mounting system. The metal bar is screwed to the seamy side of the frame with self-tapping screws. The box is inserted into the interior opening, wedged with wooden wedges, the suspension petals are folded onto the wall, fixing with self-tapping screws with plastic dowels.
Installation of add-on
When installing a door block in a deep interior opening, the frame is not able to cover the entire wall. If the width of the box is not enough, then use. Decorative strips are installed on the longitudinal groove of the frame, after having lubricated the lock with glue. If the door frame does not provide for a lock for extras, the strips are fixed through the countersunk holes with self-tapping screws. The optimal fastener pitch is 60 cm.
Installing the door leaf
Before installing the door, the curtain is equipped with fittings. There are awnings of different types and colors on the market. The place for their fastening is determined even before the installation of the box. For the interior sash, the installation of butterfly awnings, which do not require a tie-in, is popular.
Two hinges are installed on a light sash, retreating from above and below 25 cm.The heavy canvas is reinforced in the center with a third canopy. With the open method of fixing the box, the anchors are positioned so that they do not interfere with screwing the hinges with self-tapping screws. If the installation of interior doors was carried out in a hidden way on suspensions, the problem with the location of the fasteners disappears.
The gap between the end of the sash and the hinge frame post must be 6 mm. First, mark the place for fastening at the end of the sash. A recess is selected under the hinge mounting plate with a chisel. The canopies are screwed on with self-tapping screws.
The door leaf together with the hinges is inserted into the box. The sash is spread with wedges so that gaps are formed around the perimeter. On the hinge rack, mark the places for sampling the grooves. The canvas is removed from the frame, a recess is selected with a chisel, then the second halves of the canopies are screwed on with self-tapping screws.
The handle with the lock is installed at a height of 90 cm from the floor. The body of the locking fittings is applied to the sash at a measured height. With a pencil, mark the location of the handle, outline the boundaries of the castle. At the end of the blade, a recess is chosen with drills or a chisel. A through hole is drilled for the handle. The nest is treated with varnish, a lock is installed, the body is fixed with self-tapping screws, and then the handles are inserted. On the rack of the box opposite the lock, a sample is made, a counter plate of locking fittings is placed.
To install the doors with your own hands without defects, the process of hanging the sash is carried out after the foam has completely hardened.
Fastening platbands
The final installation of the door block is. Decorative strips are placed on both sides of the interior opening. sell wood, plastic or MDF. The shape can be simple flat, beveled or curly. to the end of the interior box with a lock connection, screwed with self-tapping screws or nailed. The planks can be glued, but the adjoining wall must be perfectly flat and finished with solid cladding.
To carry out a simple installation of door platbands, the horizontal strip is first fastened to the level. The edges are pre-sawn off at an angle of 45o. Vertical planks are installed from the floor. Above, mark the cutting line at a similar angle. The joint is made as tight as possible. In the event of a gap, use a putty. After hardening, the blemishes are painted over.
Platbands can be joined at right angles. The upper bar is wound between the vertical elements or placed on top of the end.
Installing the stop
The hinged interior sash that opens on the run by children hits the wall with handles. The decorative finish deteriorates and even plaster crumbles. The installation of a door stop, which does not allow the curtain to open completely, helps.
The stop is a barrel with a rubber attachment. The limiter is installed after the installation of the door block and all finishing work. The interior sash is pushed open to the desired position. The location of the stop is marked on the floor. A hole is drilled with an electric drill, a fixing screw is driven in and the limiter is clamped.
How do I change the canvas?
Often, during repairs, only the replacement of the door leaf is required. The procedure is much easier than installing an interior door from scratch.
- The old canvas is removed from the hinges. Sheds usually consist of two split halves. To remove the interior sash, it is enough to pry it open from the bottom with a pry bar. If the axle bar is inserted into the hinges from above, the blade will not come off. First, a screwdriver is inserted under the head of the rod, then it is knocked out of the socket with hammer blows. Dismantling starts from the bottom hinge. After removing the rods, the sash can be easily removed.
- Two canvases are compared in size, stacked on top of each other. If the new fold is larger than the old one, mark the borders with a pencil. The excess areas are cut off with a hand-held circular saw. Sections are adjusted with a plane, processed with a grinder.
- The adjusted door leaf is equipped with hinges, a lock, a handle.
- The hinging is carried out in the reverse order.
If a new blade was fitted, the cut points must be masked. The paint and varnish material is selected close in color or the entire canvas is completely repainted.