Indoor renovations do not go without investment of time, money and headaches. The ceiling is an important detail in the finishing work. The bunk ceiling has several variations, one of the more affordable and aesthetically pleasing is the multi-level plasterboard ceiling with backlighting - it will be the main accent of the room. Also, a plus in the low cost of installation time, and the process itself takes place without a heap of garbage and dirt. The most important thing is freedom for the artist, you can choose completely different shapes and colors, and water resistance is also ensured in the event of a flood from neighbors. Even if such a nuisance occurs, you just need to drain the water from the structure, preferably with the help of a specialist. If irregularities, cracks and other incidents remain during work, the finish will mask all the flaws
The only disadvantage can be considered dust, harmful to human health, emitted upon contact with plasterboard sheets. In general, the double ceiling will look very impressive and will become the main decoration of the interior, and the backlit solution will add sophistication.
What is this article about
Ceiling options
If the main ceiling has an ideal appearance and no irregularities, and you just need to divide the rooms into zones and hide the cables, then the box is installed with an island in the central block or along the perimeter. In the case of an uneven ceiling surface, the installation method of 2 plasterboard tiers is suitable. Initially, the installation of the base area is carried out drywall ceiling, and the details of the next level must be hemmed under the original frame. Alternatively, attach a guide profile for the main surface of the ceiling to the side of the mounted box. Also, the box of the second level can be oval or round; in general, you can choose any shape, according to your imagination. The final finish should look something like this.
Preparatory Processes
Before work, the existing chandeliers are removed, and in the presence of large irregularities, they must be eliminated. To start work on the ceiling, there must be a design project, a reduced copy of the ceiling on paper, in which, in addition to the appearance, there must be lighting layouts, and also the location of the curtains must be taken into account. It is very important to respect the proportions of the ceiling and the scale. For a sketch, lined paper is ideal, this will become a lightweight option for transferring reference points - the starting points of the contours of bends or corners, from which the rest of the details and elements of the ceiling will actually begin to be built.
It is worth picking up all the necessary tools in advance:
- drill;
- hammer;
- putty knife;
- screwdriver;
- metal knife;
- drywall knife;
- construction level;
- upholstery cord;
- construction thread;
- roulette;
- pencil;
- profiles;
- suspensions;
- knitting needles;
- drywall;
- connecting fasteners and assemblies;
- details of electrical work (lamps, LED lamps, neon tubes or cords, etc.).
You can see the scheme of expenses for 1 sq.m., and calculate it according to your perimeter.
Ceiling markings
It is worth paying special attention to this important stage, and doing everything carefully. It is necessary to postpone the distance from the lowest corner, moving down, the distance should correspond to the distance to the lowest level of the ceiling.
Using the water level, transfer the mark to all existing internal and external corners of the room and draw lines between them with the upholstery.
Rub the cord with dark powder and beat off diagonally. Mark the center of the room, compensating for all the unevenness of the ceiling and walls. Draw lines longitudinal to the hidden edges of the second tier. Draw a grid for suspensions of the 1st tier in the inner perimeter of the boxes, that is, place the marks, each 50 cm from each other along the longitudinal boundaries of the two reverse lines. On the remaining lines, place dots 60 cm from each other. A right angle must go out at the intersection of all lines.
A laser projector can be an ideal solution for marking, it is good in ease of use - by placing it in the middle of the room, a 600 mm mesh structure is installed, and the resulting mesh can be immediately drawn on the surface. Further, it is necessary to drive self-tapping screws into the base ceiling in the center of the circles, they are outlined with a pencil along the slats with the required length. Also, a cardboard template is prepared in advance to draw curved elements.
Lighting types
The lighting in the ceiling is part of the decoration, giving a graceful look and an interesting detail, but it should not be considered as lighting on its own, as it will not give the desired lighting effect. Central lighting in the form of lamps and lamps should be taken care of separately. The most popular sources of illumination in backlighting are neon tubes, LED strips and duralight. The last two are LEDs mounted one behind the other. Their plus in power supply is 12 V, or 24 V. You can also choose ribbons with monochrome glow of red, blue, green or white. They are commonly referred to as SMD or RGB all-rounders. Universal cars can change color, monochrome ones have one. RGB work with controller and remote control.
LED lamps are divided into the following types of performance - ordinary, waterproof, moisture resistant. Regular ones are only suitable for dry rooms, since they come without a protective coating. Waterproof ones have a varnished surface, suitable for damp rooms. Moisture-resistant ones are sealed in a polymer pipe or case, it is better to use them in objects with high moisture - aquariums, swimming pools, etc. So the type of lamps is chosen according to the type of room. The advantages of LED lamps are economically low energy consumption, durability, ease of installation, reasonable price and resistance to overheating.
Neon tubes are filled with a mixture of inert and luminous gases. Their brightness depends on the amperage regulated by the convector.
Their power is more - 100 V, the installation runs every 5 m. And also a lot of electricity will be required for the installation of transformers, since the normal voltage is not enough for neon. Compared to neon tubes, neon cords look much more advantageous. Work from AA batteries, a paired controller - these are the main advantages. But the lack of power does not give them independent lighting, so it is better to use it in tandem with LEDs, or to highlight some interior details.
Illumination box device and its assembly
Immediately I want to show a video explaining this process in detail:
A couple of profiles are required - UD and CD. UD is a guide profile that is mounted both on the wall and on the ceiling, as well as at the point of fixing the side, if it is in the center of the structure. CD is a more rigid bearing profile, from which the jumpers and posts are created, the plasterboard sheet is attached to them.
In the presented photo, the gypsum board holds the suspension, due to its rigidity, so the shelf has no support as such.
In such cases, the weight of the lighting equipment is taken into account.
There is another type of design. Here, elongated cross members hold the shelf outrigger. This structure will require a larger supporting profile, and in terms of reliability, it will be much stronger.
To assemble the box, you need to fix the guide profiles along the contours on the wall, the inner boundaries of the second tier and along the ceiling. Next, cut out pieces of the CD profile with a small "sponge" on one side, this should be done by measuring the distance from the profile on the ceiling to the level of the contours on the walls, and subtract about one and a half centimeters from this. Insert the resulting pieces into the profile, screwing in approximately every 50 cm.
To the "sponge" screw the guide profile, the sharp part of which is turned to the wall, along the bottom of the suspended profiles so that the guides are connected by means of the pieces of the bearing profile. Then it is worth cutting the CD profile to the desired length and inserting it into the guides, then screwing it on. Sheathe the side edge of the frame with plasterboard material. Do the same with the bottom plane. The work with the boxes is completed. When working with boxes, it is worth considering in advance the points of installation of the lamps, and the location of the wires. To make the frame more rigid and the sheet firmly fixed, then the middle of the pieces of the supporting profile is fixed on the suspension, or when the box is more than 50 cm wide.
Installation of suspension profiles
Fasten drywall sheets in the center by hanging corners and crosses. Make a skeleton to attach the drywall to. Such fittings can be used for profile bundles.
Installation is carried out according to this principle - fastening the profile to each other during plasterboard installation, and to the ceiling. With the legs down and in a top-down position, screw the U-shaped profile where the drywall lies perpendicular to the ceiling surface. Insert and fix the lowering rates into the profile groove, then fix the U-shaped profile as in the previous case, but the legs should be directed to the wall, and where the lowered profile wall insert is cut to the upper shelf of the P - letters, and bent upwards, the lower profile is fixed ...
Then it is fixed along the perimeter of the P - profile, the legs should be from the wall.
Then the lower level guides are attached, which are necessary for drywall.
The gap between them should be about 50 cm.
Leave space when mounting the skeleton to install the string in the opening for the curtain rod or curtain.
Then, with the help of scissors, make artistic roundings, for this, cut out at regular intervals about 5 cm of the P-legs to the upper shelf.
Fasten the lower profile mesh to the spare hangers.
Fix plasterboard sheets to the lowest level of the ceiling surface. Cut special openings under the lamps.
Do the same by securing the plasterboard structure on the side rails. Then fix the corners along the perpendicular edges of the lower ceiling and the vertical inner wall. Putty the joints.
After drying, choose either a putty or a primer and paint over the ceiling. Then the lamps are inserted into the holes for them and the strings are pulled under the curtains. The finish is to paint the ceiling of your choice and taste.
Assembling the ceiling with your own hands will not be difficult if you study everything in detail, and the double ceiling will become the main decoration of the room.
Greetings to all visitors to my little frail site)), just kidding, it's not so bad). This time we will have a rather interesting and relevant topic for many. It will be a two-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands. Moreover, we will consider the case with a curvilinear height difference.
Yes, doing this is definitely more difficult than a single-level one, but it looks much more interesting, you must agree. And here it already depends on you how cool it will be, because the flight of imagination in the case of such ceilings is limitless. We, of course, will not invent some kind of tin, but we will take as an example a shape with simple smooth curves.
In this case, the example will be the most labor-intensive case when our entire ceiling will be assembled from gypsum board. A similar design, of course, can be obtained by combining GK with plaster or a stretch ceiling (by the way, here's something about), simply by mastering the completely drywall option, you can easily implement these.
Before reading this material, I strongly recommend that you familiarize yourself with the article "Plasterboard Ceiling", where you can learn a lot about GK and get basic information about the assembly of the ceiling. In this article, I, of course, will describe the whole process, but I will not go into some of the details that I already wrote about earlier.
So let's go. Let's see what we need to assemble the masterpiece.
Tools and accessories
A few words about clamp and pull hangers. They are used when the length of conventional straight hangers (12.5 cm) is not enough. They look like a small anchor on which ceiling profiles are hung. On one side of this anchor there is a special spring clip where the rods are inserted. The rods are ordinary metal knitting needles, 4mm in cross-section; they have a loop at one end for which they are attached to the ceiling.
Compressing the spring, the suspension is moved up / down along the spoke, setting it to the desired height; after which the clamp is released, and the suspension is rigidly fixed to the rod. It is easier to work with them than with straight suspensions, because they do not need to be fixed with self-tapping screws, but the need to use them arises very rarely (well, this is for me personally).
The rods are available in different lengths: usually 35, 50, 85 and 100 cm. The suspensions themselves also come in different shapes, depending on the manufacturer. The design load for one such suspension is 25 kg.
There are also special vernier suspensions, they are more powerful, they are already designed for 40 kg, but I have never used them - I was not required.
Layout and installation of the first level
First, we need to prepare a drawing of the ceiling on paper or a computer. The second option is certainly much more convenient. An article is coming soon, dedicated to one simple and very useful one. In order not to miss, subscribe to site updates.
Let's say we have our legendary virtual room. In the article on the construction of a partition, the room was divided into two, so now we decided to build a beautiful two-level ceiling in one of these parts. We draw up its drawing and estimate the shape of our future masterpiece - it will consist of two parts of circles of different radii. The center of one of them coincides with the center of the window opening, and the second lies on the opposite wall.
In general, we need to collect the following: 
I took the circles from the bulldozer, so I got such ugly values for the radii, well, it doesn't matter.
You should get something like this: 
First, we need to mark the first level - the one above. We believe that there will be no recessed luminaires in this part of the ceiling, so we lower it to the minimum distance from the rough one. Usually 5 cm is enough.To be one hundred percent sure that the profiles will fit in, it is advisable to measure all corners of the room with a water or laser level, and at the same time the middle, find the lowest point and retreat from it.
If installation of sound insulation is required, take into account its thickness, it should be placed between the rough ceiling and drywall freely.
At the second level, 6 spotlights are planned, we will assume that the wiring for them has already been laid.
With the help of a water level, it is necessary to make horizontal marks at all corners, which are then connected with a "bump" (cord breaker). Here's our starting line: 
Along this line, we fasten the guide profiles, glued with sealing tape, using the dowel-nails. We put them behind the farthest point of the supposed beginning of the second level by half a meter. One wall in our room is plasterboard, the guide profile is attached to it using ordinary black self-tapping screws; we try to get them into the rack profiles. 
Next, mark up main profiles- those that will be attached to the ceiling with hangers. Here it is convenient to place them across the room so as not to build up. We take a step of 40 cm, since we will attach the gypsum board to the frame again across the room - there will be fewer seams, because the width of the room is less than the length of the drywall sheet. By the way, I have nothing against a step of 60 cm, many choose it just like that; but with a step of 60 cm, you also need to put transverse profiles on CRABs, this is long and expensive.
The last main profile must be completely below the second level of the ceiling. In our case, it took 8 of them. 
Now the suspensions. Our room is narrow, so the bearing profiles (those that are across the main ones), as such, are not needed here, especially since the main ones come with a minimum step. Therefore, for suspensions, you can choose any step you like. I take 60 cm. Although official technologies allow you to take a step even in a meter, I think that it is too dangerous to save on suspensions and I never put them further than 60 cm from each other. We drill holes for suspensions with a perforator and mount them on wedge anchors, having previously glued them with sealing tape. 
After attaching each suspension, it is recommended to pull them down so that later they do not hang down by themselves, along with the sheets of the GK. Now we insert the ceiling profiles and attach them to the hangers with four screws each. Bend over the excess length or cut it off beforehand, as I did in the example. If there is sound insulation, then be sure to bend it, it will be such "hangers" for mineral wool. 
We sew: 
There is no point in sheathing to the end, we stop as soon as we have entered the beginning of the second level, we put transverse jumpers on CRABs so that the edge of the last sheet is held more rigidly: 
Of course, you need to cut the gypsum board approximately in the shape of the ceiling, but I do not want to die at the computer, making all sorts of pretzels with sheets, so I depicted them as rectangular. Suspensions for the second level will pass through the holes in the first level for me, and everything will be normal for you - from the ceiling.
Installation of the second level
We begin to mount the second step of the two-level ceiling. We draw circles on the first level with the help of an impromptu compass.
I repeat - your first level drywall should go beyond this line by a maximum of 10 cm. We fix the guides on the surface of the first level and on the walls. To give the guide profile the shape of a ceiling bend, it is necessary to make notches on it every 4-6 cm. This means that one side and back side of the profile are cut, and the remaining whole side side is bent. I tried to reproduce it in 3D, it didn't work out very well, but the essence, I think, is conveyed: 
Suppose we have a height difference of 10 cm, we fix the guide profile on the walls at the appropriate height, not forgetting about the vertical end profiles. The next step is to fasten the hangers to the rough ceiling with a clip.
The configuration forces us to run the main profiles along the room, we will find out why a little later; sheets will also be better mounted along. Therefore, we take the step of the profiles to 40 cm, and leave the distance between the suspensions about 60 cm. It is better to cut off the excess length of the rods in advance, but some masters simply bend them.
We mount profiles from the long side of the second level, since we will start the plasterboard cladding from it. It is highly desirable to place suspensions closer to the ends of the profiles, no further than 30 cm, so here you can "score" one step. Here's what I mean: 
The ends of the profiles must be cut so that they do not go beyond the plane specified by the guides, but repeat it as much as possible in shape. After the PCBs are cut and installed, you need to "put on" the guide, previously cut into segments, on them, you get something like this: 
That's why we put the ceiling profiles along. We do not fix anything with self-tapping screws, or we fix it temporarily. Now we have to cut the drywall sheets of the desired shape "on the ground". You need to start from the long edge: 
Along a plumb line or level, we lower the centers of the circles and the points of abutment to the walls to the floor, draw arcs on the sheets, along which we will cut them. This is best done with a jigsaw. By the way, we see in the diagram that we need 2 sheets on the long side: large and very narrow - you must first put jumpers between them on CRABs.
So, we sawed through, for example, the first sheet, the largest. We raise it with the edge along our vertical and sew it to the frame. Until we screw in the screws closer than half a meter from the edge, so that it is possible to adjust our segmented guide, and move it so that the back side (looking at us) roughly coincides with the smooth end of the GK sheet. Sew along the way.
The second narrow sheet will not cause any problems, but with the third we do the same as with the first - we sew with self-tapping screws away from the edge, align the guide profile with the edge of the sheet, sew. We get the following: 
Mine, as you can see, here let me down a little (or rather, I don't really know it yet) ... If I had known two years ago that I would decide to start my own website, I would have stocked up with good photos during this time, but the decision to start it came to me spontaneously , so you have to use an editor to make it more understandable for readers.
So, we just have to sew on the butt. This is not difficult, drywall bends well. But on steep sections it is better not to try to bend it, we just sheathe the end in 20-50 cm segments.Jumpers do not need to be placed here, I use them when the distance between the guides is more than 20 cm, and we have only 10.
This completes the assembly, it remains to prime everything, reinforce and putty the joints of the sheets, plus install a flexible plastic protective corner. You have already read about the processing of seams in the article about a single-level ceiling, and you can familiarize yourself with the protective corners in the article "Do-it-yourself slopes" in the "Plaster" section.
In fact, in the absence of experience in the installation of plasterboard structures, it is very difficult to assemble a two-level ceiling, in reality, it is seriously difficult. But if you are not shy, I suggest you calculate how much you can save on this! There is such a ceiling from 800 rubles / sq.m. (in our village). The room in our example was small, with an area of 9.5 sq. M. This means that we saved 7600 rubles on the work of the craftsmen. True, this figure refers only to the assembly and does not take into account the subsequent putty, etc. Not bad, in principle, money.
As a result, we have something like this: 
So, we finally figured out how to assemble a two-level ceiling from drywall with our own hands, well, I hope so, because this article was not easy for me, I wrote it for two days, 12 hours ... Building such things at home - It's not easy, but the result is definitely worth it. Subscribe to updates and be the first to know about new articles!
The original way of interior decoration in the apartment will be a two-level ceiling with the arrangement of a suspended or tension structure. This option is perfect for the living room and bedroom. The decorative design can be complemented by a unique lighting system, making the appearance of the room refined.
Design features and advantages
Choosing a two-level structure for arranging the ceiling in your room, be prepared to incur additional financial costs.
Therefore, decide in advance which installation method and ceiling design will be preferable for you:
The upper level can be a previously equipped ceiling plane. Plasterboard will be attached only to hotel areas, which allows you to visually zone the room. You can fix the boxes around the perimeter, but the main condition will be a flat and smooth surface of the upper level.
Plasterboard is placed on one tier, and a tension system on the second. This can be done if the surface finish is prohibitively expensive.
The choice of the installation option remains with the owner of the apartment. It is necessary to take into account the state of the repair, the layout of the premises, and your own financial capabilities.
Among the advantages of two-tier technologies are:
- concealment of defects in the rough finish;
- the ability to cover communications;
- room zoning;
- visual space management in the room;
- creation of an original design using various lighting methods.
Ceiling construction with plasterboard box
A fairly common way of decorating the interior of rooms is arranging a plasterboard ceiling.
You can solve this problem on your own, although you will have to work hard following our instructions.
Surface preparation and marking
At the very beginning, you need to free the room from furniture and other things. The floor should be covered with foil. The surface to be treated is cleaned of the old coating.
If necessary, gaps and cracks should be repaired, primed and plastered. Finishing will be superfluous if you plan to cover the entire ceiling with gypsum board.
After that, you can start marking. Pre-measure the height of the corners and identify the lowest one. To ensure an even structure horizontally, you should focus on this angle.
As a markup, you can draw a straight line on the wall used for mounting profiles. Marking with dots will help you orient yourself along the straight suspension.
If the lengths of the opposite sides differ, then it is necessary to align horizontally and then make the necessary markup. It is determined by the project you have chosen.
Installation of the frame of the first tier
The fastening of the UD guide profiles is carried out at 600 mm intervals around the perimeter. For the ceiling, a pitch of 400 mm is required.
If rounded solutions are assumed, then in such areas on the surface of the profile it is necessary to make notches with an interval of 25 mm, sequentially making bends taking into account the required radius.
Direct hangers are attached to pre-marked points on the ceiling. A step of 600 mm must be observed. After that, the ends should be bent and carefully trimmed.
Ceiling CD profiles are mounted on these hangers. Where the second level of construction is planned, it is advisable to install the "crabs" in advance.
At this stage, you can take care of heat and sound insulation. To do this, a heater is laid in the interprofile grooves and fixed with the "tails" of the suspensions.
Then the frame of the first level is sewn up with drywall. In the places where the modules are cut, it is advisable to remove part of the material with a knife, forming a chamfer. This is necessary for greater strength of the seams.
Installation of the second tier
In the process of arranging ceilings with your own hands, you must carefully consider the installation of profiles for the second level. An outline for the UD profile is drawn on the wall.
A drawing according to the project should be applied to the surface. The presence of such markings makes it possible to visually assess the future structure. A frame from a profile is attached to the markings. If necessary, the necessary places are rounded off.
To lower the frame under the tier, you must:
- cut the CD-profile to the length required to lower the frame;
- cut out the tabs (side parts) on one side of the cuts, which facilitates installation;
- insert the cuts with the straight side into the UD profile fixed to the ceiling;
- using the "flea" construction, fix the cuts with a step of 500-600 mm;
- if it is necessary to fix the curved pieces of the CD-profile, then the step should be reduced to 200-300 mm;
- plant the UD-profile on the established cuts, followed by strong fastening.
After the sidewall is ready, you need to cut off part of the CD-profile. The length should be taken equal to the gap between the sidewall and the profile on the wall. Then they are firmly fixed on both sides. The frame will be completely ready.
Fastening drywall
To fix the drywall sheets on the constructed frame, it is necessary to use a gap. The first row starts with a full-size sheet that is mounted on the profiles.
The second row also begins with a solid canvas, but already from the opposite edge. The fastening technology can be seen in the photo of two-level ceilings.
To make curly parts, you first need to design a template from cardboard. And then along it and cut out the blanks. If the sidewalls are bent vertically, then it is necessary to make the forming by rolling with a needle roller.
Then the surface is sprayed with water, and when it is soaked like gypsum (about an hour), an incision is made on the convex plane of the bend. The workpiece is placed on the edge, the desired bend is formed, secured with a load and left to dry.
If you are creating illuminated ceilings, then you need to check all the wiring and communications.
Fastening of drywall is done with self-tapping screws with a pitch of 150-200 mm. To improve the quality of the future finish, the caps of the screws must be deepened.
If at the same time the canvas is pressed through, then the fastening is altered, moving away from the previous place by 40-50 mm. Another sheet is attached from the opposite edge.
Remember, first you need to fasten the upper level, then go to the side parts, and at the end - the decor of the lower part.
After that, you can start finishing. First, the surface must be primed. After drying at the joints, you should glue the serpyanka tape, the seams and the places of the deepening of the self-tapping screws are putty.
It is advisable to fix the outer corners with corners. It is advisable to use a metal corner for even contours, but curved surfaces need to be fixed with plastic ones. The corners can also be fixed by pressing into a layer of pre-applied plaster.
Sheets of fiberglass are attached to PVA glue, and a finishing putty with a layer of 15 mm is laid on top. Then the surface is sanded and primed. In conclusion, the finishing should be carried out and the lighting devices should be fixed.
Features of the arrangement of the tension structure
Two-level stretch ceilings also look great in a living room or bedroom. In this case, the perimeter of the room will be sheathed with plasterboard, and there will be a stretch canvas in its center.
The installation process is as follows:
- Marking and installation of plasterboard boxes around the perimeter.
- At a given height, a profile is attached, which will be the basis for fixing the canvas.
- Heating the room and warming up the canvas with a heat gun.
- Tension of the web between the profiles. Diagonally opposite corners are attached first. Then the other two take turns.
- Along the perimeter, the canvas is stretched in turn along opposite edges - first one side, and then the second, lying opposite. Then the third and fourth.
- Installation of lighting points and decorative elements.
Two-level ceiling structures are a fairly popular way to give the interior of rooms an original and attractive look.
However, the installation process is quite laborious. First, you need to carefully work out the project, prepare the base, fix the frame, and only then proceed with the installation of the main canvas or sheets of drywall.
Photo of two-level ceilings
Two-level curly ceilings make it possible to make the design of the room refined and unique, the use of drywall for their manufacture allows you to get a decorative highlight of the interior quickly and relatively inexpensively.
Types of false ceilings
Only the designer determines what type the structure will have. The immediate form, design depends on the designer's imagination. But still, any construction belongs to one of the types:
- Single-level;
- Simple two or three levels;
- Complex figured ceiling.
Advantages of plasterboard coating
Most of the floors are mounted using drywall. The advantages of using this material:
- Ease of operation;
- Comparative low cost;
- An opportunity to get a full-fledged design masterpiece.
A variety of lighting is mounted in drywall coatings, which makes it stunning.
Direct installation of a drywall coating with your own hands will not be difficult, the main thing in this matter is the presence of desire and experience. It is difficult for beginners in the construction business to immediately make a complex structure with their own hands; it is better to start with a simple two-, three-level ceiling. On the open spaces of Runet there are many professional videos and photos that will become a source of construction experience.
General idea of two- and three-level ceilings
A two-level illuminated ceiling is shown in the photo:
The basic basis of two- and three-level structures is the basic ceiling or single-level ceiling.
Important! Two- and three-level structures are mounted without fail on the previous frame. Each subsequent level has a smaller area.
The main principles of DIY installation:
- Correct and accurate calculation;
- Direct combination of all levels of construction;
- Correct and neat design of the edging parts.
Advantages:
- Visual change in the volume of the room;
- Giving individuality, sophistication, originality;
- Allocation due to the design of the functional part of the room;
There are several options for creating a two- and three-level plasterboard ceiling.
The installation of a two-level ceiling, which is a step along the perimeter of the room, is relatively simple. This design is used in combination with lighting and is called a frame ceiling.
A popular method is zoning a room using a diagonal tiered ceiling. The structure is based on a single-level area, and a second level of the required size is made in the allotted corner.
Choice of design
The choice of a design design is not complete without viewing photos and videos on the direct installation of a two- or three-level ceiling with your own hands. There are many types of two-level flow:
- With right angles;
- With wavy lines;
- With sudden or gentle transitions;
- With hidden backlight;
- Using a variety of painting.
For a small room or kitchen, a strict two-level ceiling of exquisite design with spotlights around the perimeter is suitable.
Important! When studying the photo, pay attention to the location of the backlight and the color palette used.
How to install a two-level coating with your own hands - a guide
There is disagreement among professionals about the sequence of steps for tiering. The following methods can be emphasized:
- The first method involves the installation of the first level frame;
- The second provides for the installation of the second tier, and the frame of the first level is accommodated between its components.
Important! Do-it-yourself installation is carried out, observing the sequence of stages and strictly according to the instructions.
The manufacturing technique for this kind of ceiling provides for a procedure:
- Coating preparation.
- Installation of the frame of the structure of the first level;
- Installation of the second level;
- Construction finishing.
Preparatory work
Regardless of the planned structure, the main task of the preparatory work is accurate measurements and markings. Since, due to poorly performed first steps, product distortions are obtained. The design usually consists of the following geometric shapes:
- Semicircle;
- Oval;
- Rectangle.
Important! The task of the preparatory work is to carry out a rough finish of the floor and walls.
The final finishing is carried out after the installation of the "skeleton" of the structure. It is important not to forget that the structure must be flat. For this purpose, the level is applied every 0.5 m along the room and across the width. If the ceiling has irregularities of about 5 mm, then it is leveled.
Important! If the ceiling is dry and the plaster is firmly in place, remove the old layer in such a way and level it with the finishing plaster.
Pay attention to this nuance: if the plaster peels off, it is removed until the very overlap.
DIY coating installation
To make a two-level drywall construction with your own hands, mark the walls and ceiling for direct mounting of the "skeleton" of the structure. First, the marking is made in order to attach the guide profiles of the first level frame.
Important! Please note that the entire structure must be parallel to the floor.
First of all, they put a mark in the place where the wall has the smallest height at a distance of 7-8 cm from the ceiling. A similar mark is made in the opposite corner of the wall, taking into account the real height. A clear, even straight line is drawn between the marks. A similar method is used for marking on all walls. The next step is to connect all the lines. The resulting line shows the minimum edge of the guide profile. For the second level, similar manipulations are carried out.
How to make the markup correctly: photo
Important! If the room is not high, the indent from the covering for the frame of the first level should not exceed 2.5 cm.
Installation of the frame of the structure of the first level
Sequence:
- The procedure starts by mounting the UD profiles. They are attached directly to the wall around the circumference of the building. The step is 600 mm. The same procedure is performed on the ceiling. The mounting method is shown in the photo.
- A straight suspension is attached to the coating according to the markings.
Important! If the ceiling is flat, you can safely skip this step.
- A CD profile is attached to a straight hanger. The frame of the structure takes the form shown in the photo.
- After that, the structure is sheathed with plasterboard.
Installation of the second level frame
For the construction of the second level, the following steps are performed, involving the installation of drywall:
- Frame markup;
- Frame mounting;
- Lowering the structure to the required length;
- Facing.
Drywall is ideal for kitchens. It allows you to highlight the work and dining area with lighting, hide utility lines. However, owners of low ceilings should not get carried away with bulky multi-level structures.
In the photo you can see an example of the design of a low ceiling in the kitchen.
Important! Pay particular attention to the placement and brightness of the lighting.
Ceiling design today is one of the most convenient and affordable options to radically change the interior appearance of the room. Walls and floors perform more technological functions, while the emphasis is placed on ceilings in two directions at once. Due to the combination of finishing materials and new technologies, it has become possible to create suspended structures of stunning beauty and originality, which are distinguished by high manufacturability. Double ceilings are becoming a frequent occurrence in the field of apartment design, especially when it comes to the desire to create a unique and original interior inside the living space.
Two-level ceilings made of backlit drywall sheets are a great option to transform a room. In addition, by creating several levels, you can successfully emphasize the zoning inside the room, individual elements of house structures. In each case, two-level ceiling surfaces solve a number of problems, thanks to which apartment design has reached a completely new level. Let's take a closer look at how to make a two-level ceiling on our own and what you need to pay attention to, first of all, during work.
Purpose of multilevel ceilings. Design features
The use of drywall in finishing works has opened up ample opportunities for interior improvement and design optimization. Thanks to the technological capabilities of the gypsum board, this consumable has become actively used for working with ceilings, performing two functions at once - technological and aesthetic. With technological functions, the situation is less clear. Plasterboard allows you to quickly align a curved base surface, hide imperfections and defects on the floors. When constructing single-level ceiling suspended structures, the problem with communications is also solved. All cables and ventilation are successfully hidden in the space between the ceiling, leaving the ceiling surface flat and smooth.
A multi-level plasterboard ceiling with backlighting is a completely different approach to solving problems of ceiling design. The smooth and flat surface of the main ceiling is complemented by steps and other elements in which lighting equipment can be installed. Due to the step-shaped structure of the suspended type, a striking visual effect is created that improves the visual perception of the interior space. Two levels can achieve several goals at once:
- align the base ceiling;
- improve the appearance of the ceiling surface in terms of aesthetics;
- fill the interior of the room with new details;
- to create technical possibilities for equipment of hidden and decorative lighting.
On a note: for premises of a large area, 2-level ceilings will be quite appropriate. For large interior spaces and a huge ceiling part, multi-level complex ceiling structures look good, where, together with the illumination, there are original fragments and elements of the ceiling decor.
It should be noted right away that for apartments of a small area with standard ceilings, suspension systems of two or more levels are not acceptable. The average height of a single-level ceiling is 7-10 cm, while the thickness of a multi-level structure is often more than 20 cm. This depth of the suspension system is critical for rooms where the ceiling height is only 240-250 cm.
Calculations and drawing up a drawing of a multi-level ceiling structure
In order to build with your own hands a beautiful and original multi-level plasterboard ceiling, moreover, with backlighting, it will take more time and appropriate preparation. It is best to start in this situation with calculations and drawing up a drawing. Having at hand a sketch with the dimensions of each area, indicating the required number of profiles, suspensions and fasteners, it is always easier to work.
Leveling the ceiling horizontally using drywall is not a difficult task. Another thing is to build the next levels correctly and correctly arrange the lamps. Backlighting in this case is a key element of the entire suspended structure, so it will be best when you have both a drawing and a lighting scheme in your hands. Thanks to the drawing, it will become easier to mount complex radii in the future, to correctly lay curved elements and volumetric figures in the upper part of the room. The proposed scheme clearly shows how a suspended multi-level ceiling equipped with hidden LED lighting should look like.
Thanks to the drawing, you get a complete picture of how the zoning of the internal space will be carried out with the help of the suspension system. On the sketch, you can always pre-calculate how much the ceiling will be lowered, and where in the room steps or ledges should be made. In addition, a preliminary calculation will allow you to save money when buying consumables and accessories. Profile trims and excess drywall may no longer be useful, so it's best to rely on the exact amount of parts and material to work with.
Important! Having no experience in carrying out such work, it is best to limit ourselves to the construction of a simpler structure. The minimum difference between two or more planes in height from each other is the thickness of the gypsum board. As a rule, this is 8-10cm - the average thickness of the sheets used for ceiling works.
The drawing should indicate the optimal height of all vertical elements of the suspended structure. It corresponds to the width of the guides and longitudinal profiles - 50-60mm. The maximum height of a multi-level ceiling can be up to 20 cm, no more. The proposed drawing shows the approximate dimensions for a two-level plasterboard ceiling of medium complexity.
When drawing up the drawing, all reference points should be made from the corner of the room, where the lowest location of the base ceiling surface is. In the drawing, this place is marked with a different color, then starting from the calculations from this height value.
When creating a drawing, we can conclude that it is not so difficult to build a suspended ceiling in two or three levels. The only condition is that all the work will take more time.
Step-by-step implementation of work on the equipment of multi-tiered suspended ceilings
You can choose a simpler installation option, focusing on the two levels of the new ceiling. However, if you have sufficient experience and assistants, you can not limit the flight of design ideas. It is enough to understand the device of a two-level ceiling with illumination, its structure and how the sheets of drywall are laid.
What tools and consumables will be required for work
For work, you will need ordinary drywall with a thickness of 8-9 mm. For the kitchen and dining room, where there is a high probability of high levels of humidity, you can use a moisture-resistant gypsum board. As consumables for the construction of a multi-level ceiling surface, you will need: aluminum or galvanized profiles of two types, ceiling C-shaped and guides - U-shaped. Jumpers for assembling the frame are crabs. Spring hangers are used to fasten the frame.
On a note: spring hangers were not chosen by chance. Damping compensates for suspension system movements and additional dynamic loading.
Dowels are used to mount suspensions in concrete, anchors are used to install suspensions in the first level, assembled from drywall. Plasterboard sheets are attached to the guides with self-tapping screws.
As for the finishing, here you will additionally need putty, fugenfüller, serpyaka, damper tape.
The following tools will help you make a two-level ceiling:
- screwdriver;
- hammer drill or hammer drill;
- grinder or hacksaw for metal;
- assembly knife;
- roulette and level.
Of the decorative elements, internal spotlights or LED strip will be required to complete the work.
On a note: for decorative lighting or to create the main sources of artificial lighting, halogen or LED lamps should be used. These lighting fixtures do not have the intense heat that is common with conventional incandescent lamps.
Preparatory work
Before proceeding with the installation of the frame, it is necessary to equip electrical wiring, other communication lines and ventilation. For better convenience, it is immediately necessary to indicate the location of the junction box, indicate the installation locations of the first level lamps. The surface of the concrete floor is cleaned of debris and dust, the old plaster is removed in case of its unsatisfactory condition. A two-level ceiling is already a heavy structure in itself, so if old plaster is poured onto the drywall from the back side, it may happen that the suspended structure cannot withstand the excess weight and collapse.
In addition to the ceiling, walls also require preparation. The upper edges of the walls half a meter from the ceiling surface are leveled. You should start work on ceilings only after finishing finishing work on other parts of the room. At this stage, it is important to make the final decision on what the first level will be - concrete or sheathed with plasterboard.
Installation of multi-level ceilings
The work begins in the same way when it comes to the construction of a two-level ceiling, assembled from plasterboard, without lamps or with a diode suspension. All subsequent work can be conditionally divided into the following stages:
- ceiling marking;
- installation of guides and longitudinal profiles of the first level;
- plasterboard sheathing of the first level structure;
- installation of the frame for the next levels;
- sheathing of structures with plasterboard decorative elements;
- finishing works on finishing ceilings;
- installation of lighting equipment or LED strip.
The first level is done similarly to the technology of laying single-level ceiling structures. First, the guide and longitudinal profiles are put into operation, which are attached to the suspensions fixed on the concrete floor. Further, already on the prepared frame, cut pieces of gypsum board are attached.
A two-level backlit plasterboard ceiling is the easiest option. Experience in conducting such work will appear, you can proceed to the installation and installation of more complex structures with three levels and additional volumetric figures.
The second level is mounted according to the principle of the first. The lowest point of the first level is the starting point for the subsequent marking and installation of profiles of the second level. On the walls, a mark is made at the height desired, taking into account the width of the next tier. The hangers are placed on the finished first level using anchors. To obtain the steps, an angular profile is used, in which the drywall elements cut to size are placed. To install the curly part, a template is made, with the help of which the location of the curly part is marked on the finished first level. The subsequent installation of straight and curved profiles allows you to achieve almost any shape of the second level ceiling. Plasterboard cladding is done in the same way as in the previous version, starting the laying of sheets from the corner or fixing the figured part. Ceilings with diode lighting are a little simpler in terms of their structure and design.
Conclusion
In conclusion, it should be said that the creation of multi-level ceilings is not much more difficult than the device of one-level ceilings. A double ceiling made of plasterboard with diode lighting can be made quite quickly. Observing the geometry and correctness of the lines, such a design is not very difficult. Typically, ceilings with diode lighting are rectangular ceiling surfaces, where the second level serves purely for decorative purposes to improve the interior of the room. Let's summarize:
- Tiered ceilings are suitable for large and spacious rooms
- The main task of multi-level ceilings is to increase the aesthetic properties of the room.
- Technologically 2-level ceilings allow you to create decorative lighting
- Spotlights and LED lighting are the main decorative elements of multi-level ceiling surfaces.
- Do not overweight the structure