Caulking the walls of a log house is a laborious process, which, subject to its technology, will ensure the preservation of heat in the house in cold weather. A detailed analysis of the sequence of work, the correct choice of tool and material, presented in this article, will help you do the insulation of the seams with your own hands.
Instruments
The main tools for caulking seams are the spatulas (caulking) and mallet. The blades are made of wood or steel. Caulking wood must be softer than the log material, otherwise there will be marks on the walls. Over time, the working surface of the wooden caulk shaggy, then it is replaced with a new one.
Metal caulkers are used for corner cuts, where it is especially important to fill the interior of the bowl. With a mallet, gently tapping on the caulk, they compact the insulation roller and push it into the seam.
Material selection
To insulate and seal the seams in log walls, natural material (moss, jute, tow, etc.) and modern artificial polyurethane foam, polyethylene foam, mineral wool and other mezhventsovy heaters are used.
Sphagnum moss
Moss was preferred in the past for insulating log mating. Sphagnum and cuckoo flax (red flax) were laid in the seams of the frame. Sphagnum moss was fluffed up and laid across the logs in several layers (5-10 cm) hanging down to 5 cm from the seam. Flax cuckoos were placed along the crown and also in several layers (5-10 cm) with overlapping joints.
Before laying, the moss is soaked, and it dries up already in the wall structure. By absorbing moisture, the moss quickly gives it up and does not rot. By its natural qualities, it is a very good antiseptic, therefore it also protects wood from biocorrosion. Its disadvantages include the complexity of a uniform device across the thickness of the seam.
Jute rope
Jute fiber is made from the jute plant, which belongs to the linden family. Jute caulking heaters are stronger, more durable and moderately hygroscopic. Even with high humidity in the room, for example, in baths, jute absorbs no more than 20% moisture.
Tow
Tow is a matted flaxseed fiber. It is made from the waste obtained from flax scutching and crushing. There should be no foreign impurities in it, a small amount of fire is allowed (lignified part of the stem). Tow for caulking can only be used dry, soft and without putrefactive odor. The inter-crown seam of tow should be 0.8-1.2 cm.
Hemp
Previously, hemp was also used for caulking log cabins. It was obtained by prolonged soaking of hemp stems in running water (up to 2-3 years). It is distinguished by the strength of the fibers, resistance to decay and exposure to sunlight. Today, hemp products are also presented in the range of building materials.
Modern materials
The use of artificial materials for caulking seams is becoming more widespread. These include mineral wool, polyethylene foam, mezhventsovy sealants. Their advantages are: bio- and moisture resistance, elasticity and vapor permeability, which is important for wood. Self-expanding sealing cords provide an almost perfect seam seal.
Caulking technology
The whole process of caulking log walls can be divided into two stages. During the assembly of the log house, the first stage is performed. The insulation is spread over the top of the mounted log. For the convenience of caulking, a felt tape is used, the raw material for which can be flax, jute, hemp.
The hanging ends of the seal, after the installation of the logs, are simply wrapped in their joints. The caulking of the log seams is carried out in two ways: "in stretching" and "in a set". During the construction of a log house, the "stretching" method of compaction is most often used. To do this, the free edges of the insulation are rolled up with a roller, which is pressed into the seam. The width of the roller should be 1-2 cm.
In the case of a fibrous loose insulation (moss, tow), when folding the roller, it is important to select the adjacent hanging ends, constantly twisting them with the previous ones to obtain an even and strong seam.
"In a set" usually the seam is compacted with the second caulking, which is done after the building has shrunk (after 1-2 years). Walls made of logs give sediment due to the compression of the insulation in the seams and the shrinkage of the forest.
When the ends of the insulation are not enough to create a bead or the seams are too wide during the initial caulking, the "set" method is used. To do this, a tourniquet is prepared in advance from the selected seal; you can use a ready-made rope or rope of the required thickness. Loops are made from the bundle into wide seams, which are hammered into the space between the logs until the required compaction.
The work on the caulking of the log house always begins with the lower crown and is carried out along the entire perimeter of the seam. First, the outer side of the log mating is compacted, and then the inner side. It is possible to move on to the next crown only when the entire previous one has been drilled.
A tourniquet or roller is fixed in the seam with a caulk, which is tapped first on the upper part of the insulation, then on the lower and only then in the middle. If necessary, use a mallet hammer, hitting the end of the caulking handle with it.
During the sealing of the log joints, it is necessary to constantly check the horizontal position of the logs and the verticality of the walls. The seemingly simple process of compaction may well distort the position of individual parts of the house structure, move them from their original place or lift them.
Secondary caulk
Modern technologies for protecting the connection of logs in a log house provide for sealing the seam (warm seam). The advantages of this solution for joints in wooden houses are:
- plastic;
- durability;
- resistance to sunlight and environmental influences;
- high thermal insulation properties;
- vapor permeability;
- biostability.
Sealing of seams is done as a re-caulking. The technology of the device "warm seam" basically consists of the following stages:
- Preparation of the surface of the seam to be insulated. To do this, clean the logs at the place of work from dust, dirt, grease stains. The sealant may not adhere to walls covered with varnish, wax, or any oils. It is better to test the adhesion of the sealant to the treated log surface before starting work.
- Installation of a sealing cord, for example made of extruded polyethylene. It cannot be glued to the wall, it is simply inserted into the seam.
- Sealant application. Before starting to cover the cord and part of the logs with a sealant, the wooden surface is moistened. You can stick masking tape on both sides of the seam to ensure the same width of the coating. The sealant is applied, depending on the packaging, either with a spatula or with an assembly gun. Layer thickness is allowed not less than 4 mm, but not more than 10 mm.
- Seam formation. The joint is smoothed and shaped with a suitable trowel within 15 minutes after applying the sealant. Then you can remove the masking tapes. Excess substance is cleaned with a damp cloth or sponge.
Patience and thoroughness of the caulking work will be fully justified by the durability of the structure and the warm walls of the house so that you do not have to repair cracks later. The choice of an effective method of insulating the seams of a log house and a sufficient amount of material for this will significantly reduce the cost of heating in cold weather.
Despite the wide range of materials, the construction of houses made of natural wood is still a priority for many people. Wood is not only an environmentally friendly, durable and reliable material. Houses made of timber "breathe", which allows maintaining a healthy indoor climate. But in order for the housing to be warm and there are no drafts in it, all stages of construction must be correctly observed.
Thermal insulation of a log house is a very important step that will help keep warm in the home, prevent moisture and dampness from entering the room. Since ancient times, log cabins have been caulked with moss, at that time it was the only material available for insulating housing. The modern choice of insulation that can be placed between the logs is much more extensive. Caulking the gaps between the beams provides high-quality thermal insulation.
Stages of log house insulation
A log house shrinks for several years. Despite the fact that a crown seal is always placed between the logs, it is not possible to avoid cracks and gaps in the walls.
The first time a log house is caulked immediately after or during construction. The process of work itself is rather painstaking and laborious. The second time the walls are insulated after a year or more. During this time, the logs are exposed to the environment, due to which the material may deform slightly. It is the cracks that appeared after shrinkage that need to be caulked again.
The third time the walls of the house need to be caulked after 5 years after the construction of the log house. During this period, the house will finally shrink, the material will take on its final shape.
An important rule! It is necessary to caulk the blockhouse strictly according to the scheme: they begin to close up the gaps on the lower crown, along the length of the entire perimeter of the house. Only after one row of logs has been sealed can one start to insulate the second crown. If you do not follow this rule, the frame can be skewed.
"Stretching". This method consists in pushing the insulation material into the gaps using a special tool. In this case, the gap is tightly filled with insulation, the remnants of the material are tightly rolled into a roller and are pushed into the gap with force.
"Set". This method is suitable for filling wide gaps. Harnesses are rolled up from the insulation, which are then twisted into loops. These hinges are pushed into the gaps and completely fill the free space. With this method of insulation, the remnants of the material do not stick out of the cracks.
Materials for filling gaps between logs
Natural materials
Moss. Despite the fact that moss has been used to insulate walls for many centuries in a row, it still does not lose its popularity. This natural material is not only environmentally friendly and safe, but also provides a long-term antibacterial protection for wood. Moss prevents mold and mildew from growing in the gaps between the logs.
Before caulking the walls, high-quality moss should have a certain moisture content, not dry out or too wet. The only drawback of this material is its high cost.
Tow. This material is also often used to insulate a log house. There is not much tow, but working with it takes effort. This material is not the best sealant, as fibrous tow can absorb moisture, which can affect the wood after several seasons. Spoiled tow is quite difficult to get out of the gaps. You should also pay attention to the possibility of eating the insulation by moths, which will affect the quality of wall insulation.
This material is made by crushing flax and pressing it into belts. Linen wool has good heat-saving and characteristics, does not rot, does not accumulate moisture. This material is laid between the crowns during the construction of a log house. Attached to logs with a construction stapler on staples.
Jute. Today it is one of the highest quality and most durable materials for caulking log cabins. Jute ribbons are laid between the crowns in the process of erecting a log house. Fastened with staples. Jute is not subject to decay, not hygroscopic, durable. The only drawback is the rather high cost of the material.
Also, when buying insulation, you should pay attention to the fact that the material should not contain any secondary additives, for example, flax. If there are additives, then the insulation is not durable and resistant to decay.
Rubber sealants
Working with these heaters is quite simple, does not differ in laboriousness and does not require effort. Sealants can be classified into three types.
Soft sealant in special tubes is squeezed out into the cracks, filling the entire space. Surplus squeezed out material is smoothed out. This sealant can be matched to the color of the wood, which will improve the appearance of the log house.
Video - Insulation of a log house with acrylic sealant
Polyethylene foam in the form of a cord is pushed into the slots and leveled. Once dry, it can be covered with varnish or other covering material. Sold in various colors.
Briquettes for caulking a log house require the use of a special electric sealer pistol. The liquid mass is squeezed out through the nozzle in the slot and fills the free space. This insulation method is perfect for walls with large gaps, since the tool has several nozzles with different nozzle diameters.
Log caulking tools
If sealants are not used for insulation, then before caulking a log house, you need to purchase the following set of tools.
Mallet. Hammer with wooden or rubber base for working with paddles.
Typesetting caulk. This tool has a narrow nose that allows the material to be easily pushed into narrow slits.
Curve caulking. This type of tool has a curved shape. Allows you to quickly fill uneven gaps with insulation material.
Road builder. It is a wide spatula-like spatula. Allows you to work faster with equal gaps in width.
Split caulk. With its help, the gaps between the crowns slightly widen for better installation of thermal insulation.
What you need to know before starting work
- The process of insulating and sealing walls with natural materials is a rather laborious task. With this procedure, the material is forced into the cracks, which helps to raise the entire structure of the log house by 10 -12 cm.
- Before the walls are insulated, no finishing work should be carried out inside or outside the house. Raising the crowns can damage the entire finish.
- You need to start work from the lower rims of the structure. The material is pushed into the slots evenly and consistently. After the lowest logs are insulated along the entire perimeter, you can tackle the overlying crown.
- Caulking of only one wall can lead to deformation of the entire structure of a log house; it is also not recommended to use different materials with different indicators of hygroscopicity for insulating one structure. When moisture is collected, the insulation tends to expand, which can also lead to a distortion of the log house.
- If self-insulation has led to a distortion of the building structure, do not panic. Specialists who are engaged in this type of work can correct defects by re-caulking.
- Particular attention should be paid to caulking the cracks in the corners of the house. Since a lock or slot fastening system was used for the construction of a log house, the gaps can be different in size.
To insulate walls in a "stretch", tow or other fibrous materials are most often used. You need to take a bundle of insulation in your hands, smooth it out, forming a wide strand. Then the material is applied to the slit. It is important that the fibers are positioned across the gap.
The insulation is pushed between the logs, the remnants of the fibrous material should stick out 5-6 cm from the gap. Then, a dense roller is rolled up from the protruding fibers, which, with the help of a tool, is pushed with force into the gap and clogged with a chisel. After this procedure, the material should not protrude more than 1 cm between the logs. The amount of material from which the strand is formed depends on the width of the gap. The larger the gap, the more insulation you need to take.
For this type of insulation, you must first prepare the material. From the insulation, thin and long strands are formed, which are rolled into a ball. Then the resulting bundles are folded into loops, which are pushed into the gaps between the logs. This method of insulation is suitable if the slots in the log house are large and different in width.
When caulking, the hinges are driven first into the upper part of the gap, then tamped into the bottom. In this way, it is possible to achieve uniform filling of the space between the logs and high-quality thermal insulation of the walls.
If jute was used as a heater, then after the house has shrunk, additional thermal insulation of the log house is required. When laying the crowns, the jute should be located between the logs so that the edges of the insulation protrude in the gaps by a few centimeters. After the frame has shrunk, it is required to additionally caulk the walls. For this, the protruding ends of the jute are tucked down and forced into the resulting gaps. It is also required to observe the technology of insulation: the gaps must be closed up from the lower rims.
In the uppermost crowns, which are located high, it is not required to drive the insulation with a mallet. It is enough to push the jute into the gaps with a spatula.
Video - How to properly caulk a house using jute
Caulking a wooden house is an important stage in the insulation of a finished structure using natural or synthetic heat insulators. Here, every detail matters: the right working tool, high-quality insulation material, work technology. Not all homeowners know how to correctly seal the inter-crown gaps and joints in order to reduce possible heat loss, avoid skewing the house structure, and prevent rotting of wood and heat insulators.
What is the caulking of a log house for?
Thermal insulation of a log house helps to retain heat in the premises, prevents deformation of wood and a decrease in its operational parameters. Modern heaters are durable, practical and safe, therefore they provide high-quality caulking of wooden buildings.
Log caulking solves the following tasks:
- eliminates cold bridges and reduces heat loss at home;
- corrects construction defects in the structure;
- eliminates various flaws in the outer and inner corners, crowns, openings of doors and windows;
- makes the house more attractive and reliable;
- increases the service life of wood.
When is caulking
Caulking a wooden house is carried out in several stages, and this is due to the gradual shrinkage of the wood. The maximum shrinkage occurs during the first 18 months after the end of construction work and stops after 5 years.
- The first stage of caulking is performed after the assembly of the log structure. In this case, when building a house, the thermal insulation material fills the space between the logs so that the edges hang freely on both sides. After installing the roofing structure, the insulation is hammered into the connecting seams between the crowns.
- The second stage of warming is performed 1.5 years after the completion of construction work and preliminary shrinkage of the house. The insulating material fits tightly enough to hide all gaps and crevices.
- The third stage of caulking is carried out after 5 years, when the process of log shrinkage is considered to be completely completed. All existing defects between the logs are filled with insulation.
Important! For a log house, all three caulking are carried out, and for a house made of timber, which will be lined with siding on the outside, the third caulking stage is optional.
Caulking materials
For caulking a bar or log, it is better to use natural insulation with the following characteristics:
- hygroscopicity,
- resistance to temperature extremes,
- breathability,
- environmental Safety,
- ease of styling.
Such heaters include:
- moss (red and white),
- tow,
- flax,
- jute.
Moss
The safest and most practical material with excellent antiseptic properties. It provides reliable protection of wood from rotting and biological damage.
Moss (sphagnum) is a reliable material for sealing inter-crown seams: it allows air to pass through well and quickly absorbs excess moisture, prevents the development of pathogenic microorganisms and fungi, as a result of which it increases the life of the wood.
Moss is resistant to fire and decay, therefore it is able to maintain its performance for a long time. The high cost is the only drawback of such a material.
Self-procurement of raw materials will significantly reduce the cost of thermal insulation of a house from a log or bar.
Before caulking the walls, the pre-prepared moss must have a suitable moisture level - not excessively dry or moist.
Tow
A practical and safe material that is used for caulking crowns after complete shrinkage of the log house. It is made from hemp, jute and linen fibers.
Sold in pressed bales or rolls. Tow bale has short and stiff fibers, which complicate the process of hammering the joint seams. High quality tape tow has long, elastic and soft fibers.
This material has low antiseptic properties, is susceptible to increased moisture, and therefore requires additional processing with protective impregnations or paints.
The main disadvantages of the insulation include the complexity of installation, the unattractive appearance of the processed seams, and a short operational period.
Flax
Natural material for caulking wooden houses, which is produced by pressing short flax fibers into ribbons. Linovatin possesses high heat-insulating and moisture-resistant characteristics. Such insulation is able to provide reliable protection of wood from rotting and mold damage.
Linovatin is used to seal the seams between the crowns with fixation on metal staples.
Jute
The highest quality and most durable insulation tape for caulking houses from a log or bar. The material has high heat-saving properties, is not susceptible to decay and mold. Even with prolonged exposure to moisture, jute fiber remains practically dry.
Jute is used for primary and secondary thermal insulation of a home. It has high strength, wear resistance, elasticity and practicality. It fits into the inter-crown seams with fixation on staples.
The only drawback of the material is its high cost.
Caulking tools
If natural materials are used for thermal insulation of a wooden house, then before caulking you should prepare:
- Mallet. A small wooden or rubber hammer for laying insulation with wooden caulkers.
- Typesetting caulk. A spatula with a metal or wooden base, blade width 10 cm, thickness 0.5 cm. This is the main tool for caulking the crown of a log house.
- Crooked caulking. A curved chisel with a flat blade, 5 cm wide and 0.5 cm thick. Used to fill fillet joints and gaps in rounded sections of the building with insulation.
- Road builder. Triangular blade with a special longitudinal groove. The width of the blade is 17 cm, the thickness is from 0.8 to 1.5 cm. The tool is designed to fill gaps of equal width.
- Split caulk. A tapered wedge-shaped blade up to 3.5 cm wide, which allows you to expand the inter-crown slots for the convenience of laying the heat-insulating material.
Important! All caulking blades should be slightly dull and smooth to avoid damaging the wood and pulling the insulation out of the seams. Before starting work, the tools are thoroughly cleaned with a clean cloth.
Logging technology
The process of caulking a log house is carried out in stages. There are two methods of caulking:
- stretching
- into the set.
It does not matter what method the caulking is carried out at home, all insulation work begins with the lower crown. Further, it will be considered how to correctly caulk a wooden structure.
Stretching
Caulking in a stretch provides for the insulation of the seams between the logs with pre-stretched insulation. For this, fibrous and roll materials are used.
Fiber insulation
- Work is carried out from the ends of the lower rim. A small part of the insulation (for example, tow or moss) is applied with transverse fibers to the seam and is hammered inward with a type of caulk.
- At the edges, the insulation is rolled up with a small roller and sealed into the inter-crown seam.
- Next, a new portion of insulation is used, which is formed into a roller, and the whole caulking procedure is repeated. This allows you to efficiently seal the seam along its entire length.
Rolled insulation
Dense rollers from roll insulation are much easier to obtain. For even distribution, the material is gently stretched along the entire length of the seam and applied across the grain.
- The tape is unwound on a flat surface from one corner to the opposite corner.
- Having picked up the free edge, with the help of caulking, the insulation is placed in the inter-crown seam so that the free edges hang down by 5 cm. This fills the entire length of the seam.
- After filling the seam completely, the tape is cut from the roll.
- The rest of the insulation is hammered into large gaps between the logs. The insulated seam must have the same thickness and protrude 3 mm beyond the edges of the grooves.
Into the set
Caulking in a set allows you to insulate wide and deep gaps between the logs. Here, a larger volume of material is used, respectively, and the quality of thermal insulation is higher. For this, tow, hemp rope or jute cord are suitable.
- To caulk a log house with jute (the easiest option for beginners), a small amount of material is unwound and folded into loops. Next, each loop fits into the seam with caulking.
- Buttonholes start at the top of the seam and then continue at the bottom.
- On top of the installed insulation, an additional strand is overlaid for better insulation. The material is leveled along the entire length of the seam using a road builder.
If desired, the insulation of the house in a similar way can be accelerated. In this case, the insulating material is driven in with a hammer drill. The tool is used at a low speed to prevent deformation of the seam. An air hammer with a compressor is also suitable for laying insulation.
Caulking corners
The corners in the log house are insulated after the completion of the main work.
To do this, it is better to use a roll of insulation and a curved caulking. The process is carried out as follows:
- The free edge of the insulation tape is applied to the seam located in the corner and clogged with a curved caulk.
- After installing the material, its free edges are rolled up and hammered into the seam.
- All work on laying the insulation is carried out from top to bottom. The material is gently stretched and straightened for even plugging.
Decorative caulking
If the main task of caulking is the thermal insulation of a wooden structure, then decorative caulking is used to decorate insulated inter-crown seams.
To give the log seams an attractive and harmonious appearance, experts recommend using jute or flax rope and rope as finishing.
The rope is neatly fixed to the seam surface with galvanized, hatless nails driven into the logs at a distance of 18 cm from each other. Decorative caulk is also suitable for hiding unevenly dried joints between crowns and for additional insulation of the structure.
After completing the caulking process, the wooden house should be used as much as possible throughout the year. In winter, a check is made for the formation of new cracks and deformation of the installed insulation.
A year and a half after the first stage of caulking, the second stage is carried out. In this case, a thorough inspection of the structure is carried out, the thermal insulation material is added where it has deformed or fell out, as well as where new gaps or distortions of the frame have appeared.
Caulking a wooden house is an important and responsible event that requires a competent approach and adherence to all stages of the technological process. The quality of the work performed determines the internal microclimate in the premises and the duration of the operation of the house.
Now the fashion for the construction of baths and residential buildings made of natural wood has revived. Log cabins have a respectable appearance, are warm and environmentally friendly, which is very much appreciated by modern people. But even such reliable and energy-efficient buildings should be additionally insulated in order to feel truly comfortable in them in any weather.
Caulk - what kind of operation?
Since ancient times in Russia, most buildings were built of logs. Such buildings have always been called log cabins. In recent years, interest in them has increased significantly, due to the special operational properties of wooden houses and baths. The construction of log cabins these days is offered by many companies. Experienced home craftsmen build cozy dwellings and hot steam rooms from logs with their own hands. In this article, we will not describe the technology for constructing eco-friendly buildings, but talk about how to make them warmer. It's about the rules for caulking wooden structures. Believe me, we won't be able to equip a really cozy sauna or a residential building without this operation.
First, let's figure out why you need to caulk a log house? Everything is simple here. During installation, between the logs from which this or that structure is built, there are gaps and voids. It is clear that you cannot leave them. Indeed, through such small, at first glance, gaps, precious heat will leave the room. Instead of a comfortable building, we will get a bathhouse or a house blown by all the winds. Caulking allows this problem to be solved. It is understood as the procedure for carefully sealing all the gaps between the logs using special tools and materials. All of their varieties will be described below.
Tools for insulating log cabins - unusual, but easy to use
Caulking any log house can be done independently. To do this, you will need to study the technology of the operation and stock up on a special tool:
- 1. A flat trowel made of hard wood or metal. We need to purchase a tool with a blade about 5.5 mm thick and 10 cm wide. This blade, called a flat caulk, is the main device for insulating log buildings.
- 2. A tool, referred to by experts as a road builder, of a triangular shape with a blade of 8–15 mm thick and at least 17 cm wide, along which a special groove is made. This caulk is needed to form smooth rollers from the strands of the used sealing material.
- 3. The so-called crooked caulk - a flat chisel. The thickness of its working part is 5 mm, the width is about 5.5 cm. The chisel makes it possible to seal the seams on the rounded parts and in the corners of the log structure.
- 4. A wooden mallet (mallet). With it, you can easily fill the seal without worrying that it will deform or collapse. It is allowed to work with ordinary hammers.
In addition, you need to buy two split caulkers - a narrow one and a wide one. The width of such devices, visually resembling a wedge, should be approximately 3.5 cm. Breaking tools are necessary to widen narrow gaps. After using them, the insulation material is much easier to place in gaps and voids.
The working parts of all these tools must be as smooth as possible, and the ends must not be sharp.
A rough surface will not allow you to perform the planned work with high quality, since the fibers of the insulation will cling to the caulking and pull out of the gaps. And too sharp blades will cut the material used for the thermal insulation of the log house.
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We add that there is no need to be intimidated by unfamiliar names. Every self-taught master can use the caulking tool.
Caulking materials - assortment for every taste
Thermal insulation of log cabins is carried out by various heaters (by the way, they are usually called inter-crown insulation), both traditional and more modern. The most famous caulking material is moss. It can be white and red. Our ancestors used it in the construction of buildings from logs. Moss is an environmentally friendly natural material. He possesses:
- low thermal conductivity;
- antimicrobial and antiseptic properties;
- resistance to temperature extremes (this is especially important if we insulate the bath);
- durability.
It is almost impossible to buy moss in building stores. Therefore, if you plan to use it, you will have to take care of the collection and proper preparation of this material yourself. Here you need to know the following. It is advisable to collect moss in November. At this time, there are practically no insects and snails in it. We carefully sort the collected material, throw out rotten particles, remove debris and lumps of soil. After that, dry the moss. Don't overdo it. Overdried moss cannot be used, it becomes too brittle. It is almost impossible to put it in the gaps between the crowns and place it tightly there.
An alternative to moss is tow. It is made from flax fibers. Such material can be tape (roll) or bale. Experts recommend using the first type of tow. It is easier to push the insulation in the form of a tape into the seams. And the heat-shielding properties of rolled products are higher. Bale tow is cheaper. But it is characterized by tough and short fibers. It is very inconvenient to work with such material. The key advantages of tow are not electrifying, low thermal conductivity, affordable price, antibacterial properties. Disadvantages of the material - the insulated seam has an unaesthetic appearance, the installation process is complicated and time-consuming. For these reasons, domestic craftsmen rarely use tow.
10-15 years ago, log cabins were often insulated with natural felt. It is environmentally friendly, easy to use, protects the building from street noise and odors, and has increased vapor permeability. But, unfortunately, this material has two serious drawbacks. First, moths love him very much. She literally gnaws at the insulation. Secondly, the felt is prone to decay.
Jute is devoid of these drawbacks - a pliable, soft material in the form of ribbons and ropes of different thicknesses. It can be matched to any seam. Jute, according to experts, creates an optimal microclimate in a log house. And most importantly, it is enough to simply mount it in the gap between the logs.
If a log house is built by professionals from an ordinary log or from a cylinder, it has a semicircular groove and gaps of small thickness, it is allowed to insulate it with the help of a sealant. This is the most modern and simplest way of thermal insulation of wooden buildings. The sealant cannot be used in the presence of large slots in thickness and in cases where the grooves of the structure are in the shape of a triangle. In such situations, there will be no sense from him.
We will protect a wooden building from cold weather and winds ourselves
Caulking a bath or a residential building from logs is carried out twice. For the first time, insulation is carried out directly during the construction of a log house. We need to lay the selected material after installing each of its crowns. If we use insulation in the form of a tape, the operation takes place with a minimum of time. We roll out the insulation along the crown, fix it with a construction stapler (staples). If it is necessary to lay an additional tape, we mount it on the previous one with a 5-cm overlap. We cover the installed material with the next crown and repeat the procedure.
If you use moss, you will have to tinker a little longer. We take a bunch of dried material (moisten if necessary), lay it across the log. The fibers should hang 5–6 cm from each side of the log. Then, close to the first, we lay the second bundle. We make a layer of moss quite impressive. The tree should not be visible through it. The thicker the layer, the better the insulation will be.
The second part of caulking is performed after the installation of all the crowns of the structure and the installation of the roof on it. Re-insulation is needed for any structure, be it a residential building or a bathhouse. The wall insulation scheme is as follows:
- 1. Take a bunch of tow (moss, felt), apply it to the seam between the logs, press the fibers into the gap with a caulking blade. We start work from the end of the building from the bottom row.
- 2. Gently twist the protruding ends of the material. We will have a roller that is 8-10 cm long. It should be applied to the gap and pushed back between the logs using caulking, leaving only a small tip.
- 3. Weave the next bundle of material into the free end and continue to insulate the frame. The roller cannot be interrupted. Along the entire length of the gap, it must remain intact.
It will take a lot of time to complete such a laborious operation. But then we get a well-sealed building. And you can reduce labor costs by using not tow or moss, but tape materials. They are much faster and easier to mount. We just cut off the piece of tape required in length and start hammering it into the seams. After warming the walls, we proceed to the thermal insulation of the corners of the log house. This operation is also easier to carry out with tapes. They are pushed into the gaps with a curved caulk.
Caulking with a sealant is allowed after complete shrinkage of the structure. The procedure for performing such work is given below:
- 1. We thoroughly clean the seams between the crowns from debris and dust, wipe them with a dry cloth.
- 2. We treat all joints with a primer (water-based or rubber-based primer) using a spray gun or a regular brush.
- 3. We are waiting for the soil to dry.
- 4. We put a plait made of polyethylene (foamed) into the gaps. We select products that match the width of the seams.
- 5. Apply sealant.
To give the log house an elegant look, we process the insulated joints with a tinting or colorless varnish.
In the modern market, you can find various materials for insulating a wooden house. Among the many are traditional moss, wool felt, linen tow. Of course, their qualities have been confirmed by time, but we will not dwell on them in more detail. Let's talk about modern material - jute. How to properly caulk a log house with jute, how much money will have to be spent on it and in what order, you can find out by reading this article.
By neglecting the stage of caulking a log house, we significantly degrade its thermal characteristics. When dry, the tree cracks and shrinks. Slots and voids are formed between the links of the log house, through which cold air enters the premises. This is not so scary in summer temperatures, but in winter, when the heat gets to a subzero temperature, it will frost on the walls, and this is excess moisture. Rotting wood begins and increased moisture in the house. The construction of a house from a bar is always accompanied by a double caulking.
Our great-grandfathers used moss and flax as caulking. Some passed on secrets of how and how to caulk from father to son. But these materials have a number of disadvantages that have faded into the background with the advent of sealants and putties. 
Do not forget that wood is a natural material and those who love everything natural and environmentally friendly build houses from it. Using artificial putties and sealants as insulation violates environmental friendliness. What if you want to get high-quality caulk and not harm the climate? The caulking of a log house with jute comes to the rescue.
Jute - a combination of environmental friendliness and quality
Jute is a material made from a shrub of the linden family. Which in itself is the closest to wood and a felling from it. He came to Russia from China, India and Kazakhstan. There, jute has been successfully used for more than one century. Jute fibers are unique in that their strength is higher than that of a line, while it has excellent spinning properties and low hygroscopic properties. So in a room with a humidity of more than 80%, the material will absorb only 20% of moisture, while it will be dry to the touch.
Sellers do not distinguish between jute and jute felt between themselves, but this is a mistake. Jute felt does not have all the qualities of jute and is lower. Although many manufacturers sell felt under the guise of jute. Jute felt consists of 70% jute and 30% flax. Sometimes sellers call it "flax", but this is not true either. To compare these materials, we give a table with their quality characteristics:
Why is there such a big difference between seemingly the same material? It's all about a special polymer - lignin. In good insulation, its amount should not be lower than 20%. Lignin binds the fibers in the wood together making them waterproof. And the addition of flax with jute, the composition of lignin is only 2%. Therefore, water penetrates so easily into the jute felt. And the damp material loses all heat-retaining properties and becomes a source of rot and mold. Consequently, caulking them is useless.
The density of jute is also comparatively higher than felt, which affects its uniformity during folding and, consequently, heat storage. The blowing capacity at walls with caulking is 70% higher.
You can distinguish between these two heaters by color and touch. Jute has a pleasant texture with a slight roughness, while the color is always golden, light brown. Jute felt has a gray color and is harder to the touch.
More jute can be viewed in the video presented:
Caulking with jute has a number of advantages:
- There is no need for secondary insulation.
- It is convenient for caulking walls, ceilings and perfectly complements the construction of a house made of laminated veneer lumber, profiled and edged.
- Due to the even texture, it is beautiful to lie down and looks aesthetically pleasing.
- Caulking time is reduced.
There are several types of this material that can be bought in Russia. Indian is considered to be of the highest quality. They produce both tape jute insulation, and a cord and a tourniquet, which are also used in inter-crown caulking at home. The latter options look more decorative and do not need additional finishing.
How to properly work with jute
Caulking with jute only at first glance seems like a simple task. In fact, this is painstaking work. Various articles and videos come to the aid of beginners, which tell in more detail about the stages of work. You can watch one of these videos right now:
There are two ways to caulk the crowns at home:
- Stretching.
- Into the set.
Stretching
This method is suitable for caulking walls with barely visible gaps, such as building a house from profiled logs. Insulation is taken in pieces and pushed into the cracks with a special spatula. In this case, part of the insulation (4-5 cm) should remain hanging down. A roller is made from the remainder, which must be caulked with a special chisel.
Into the set
This method is more suitable when the gaps are deep and wide. A tourniquet is rolled up from the insulation or a ready-made one is taken and, with the help of a chisel, caulkers are hammered into the holes. It is better to roll the tourniquet right along the way, so you can control its thickness. The slots are different everywhere and the seam will look neater.
With this method of caulking, the insulation is first hammered into the upper parts of the slots, then into the lower ones. For greater accuracy, at the end, the seam is sealed with a special road builder.
The subtleties of caulking with jute
- The first stage of caulking must be performed even at the stage of laying a bar or log. Jute is laid directly on each link and secured with a construction stick. In this case, the jute should protrude 4-5 cm beyond the grooves.
- Caulking with jute must be done in two stages. Although experts say that the second stage may not be necessary, you should not neglect it. The first stage is immediately after assembly, the second after 1-2 years when the wood shrinks and cracks.
- Caulking with jute must be carried out from the outside and inside of the log house.
- Caulking is better before finishing, as the walls can rise up to 15 cm.
- Caulking with jute must be strictly along the perimeter from the bottom up. You cannot first completely process one wall, then the second. So a house or a bath can warp.
- It is necessary to insulate the walls of each crown first inside and then outside, then move on to another link. Otherwise, the walls will be skewed vertically.
- For a chopped log house, take jute 1.5 cm thick, for a lumber 5 mm.
How much is the material
The price of jute is directly related to its thickness, density, shape (roll, jute cord) and batch quantity. Purchase of more than 5,000 m reduces the cost by 10%, more than 10,000 m by 15%. We analyzed the average price for jute and present it to our readers in the form of a table:
| Width, mm | Price, rub / m | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thickness 5-6 mm, density 400g / m2 | Thickness 8-10 mm, density 550g / m2 | Thickness 10-12 mm, density 700g / m2 | Jute cord, thickness 10 mm, density 450 g / m2 | Jute cord, thickness 15 mm, density 450 g / m2 | |
| 100 | From 5 | From 7 | From 11 | From 13 | From 22 |
| 150 | From 9 | From 12 | From 18 | ||
| 200 | From 11 | From 15 | From 22 | ||
| 250 | From 15 | From 20 | From 30 | ||
It is very easy to use jute for caulking the walls, and the tightness of the walls increases significantly. It is considered the most popular material in many developed countries of the world and quickly took its place on the Russian market. Despite the fact that it appeared relatively recently, professionals and amateurs fell in love with this material. To process walls, ceiling and floor with it quickly and easily. Moreover, using it with a one-sided bend, according to professionals, is more effective. Of course, you should not neglect the flax and oak, which were used by our grandfathers. But we will not deny all the advantages of inexpensive and high-quality jute.