We continue the section "Cottage" and subsection "" with an article Building a real igloo (photos, drawings and video tutorials)... Where we will talk in detail about how exactly the igloo is built - the sequence and mandatory features. We will also offer you to download a small manual for the construction of an igloo. Well, let's add a lot to our words with the help of several igloos for building.
Building a real igloo may seem completely unnecessary to you, because very few people live in places where there is enough snow for building an igloo. And even then these people most likely know how to build an igloo in practice - and from childhood. However, remember - soon an event will come, the end of 2012, and with it the end of the world, coupled with the flood and the change of the poles. And who knows what knowledge will be useful to you after that 🙂
So, first, about what an igloo is. Igloo is the winter home of the Eskimos. It is a domed structure with a diameter of 3-4 meters and a height of about 2 meters from snow or ice blocks compacted by the wind. In deep snow, the entrance is usually arranged in the floor; a corridor breaks through to the entrance. In case of shallow snow, the entrance is arranged in the wall, to which an additional corridor of snow blocks is completed. It is important that the entrance to the needle is below the floor level - this ensures the outflow of heavy carbon dioxide from the building and the inflow instead of lighter oxygen, and also does not allow the lighter warm air to leave.
The light in the igloo penetrates directly through the snowy walls. The interior is usually covered with skins, sometimes the walls are covered with skins. For heating the dwelling and its additional lighting, grease bowls are used. As a result of heating, the inner surfaces of the walls melt, but the walls do not melt, since the snow easily removes excess heat outside the hut. Therefore, a comfortable temperature for human life can be maintained in the hut. In addition, the snow hut absorbs excess moisture from the inside, as a result of which it is rather dry in the hut.
The original igloos were often very large structures capable of accommodating up to 20 people, and it was not uncommon for several igloos to be connected by tunnels. Snow was an ideal material for the construction of such structures, because there was a lot of it, and also because snow has excellent thermal insulation properties.
Igloo building material - snow
The strength and thermal insulation properties of snow huts depend on the correct choice of "construction" snow. In addition, with good snow quality, the process of their construction is greatly facilitated. In snow construction equipment, along with dense snow, loose snow is also used, which can be compacted artificially or used in a mixture with water ("snow concrete"). Igloo huts under construction only from dense and durable snow formed in natural conditions.
The best for the construction of huts is dry snow, which has a density of 0.25 to 0.30 (the density of snow is expressed by the ratio of its weight to the weight of the same volume of water; this value varies greatly, making up for fluffy freshly fallen snow from 0.01 to 0.03 , and for perennial packed snow (firn) from 0.40 to 0.65), with a uniform fine-grained structure. Such snow is perfectly sawn into strong bricks that do not break when carried and laid. Denser snow is undesirable for the construction of heated and generally residential buildings, since it has a higher thermal conductivity, weak adhesion when laying, and at very low temperatures it is fragile.
The best material for the preparation of snow bricks is provided by "young" snowdrifts. Snow in such drifts has a fine-grained, almost powdery structure and the same density. A brick cut out of this snow, even a meter long, does not split when carried and does not sprinkle. It can be dropped without fear of being intact.
But how to understand the age of the snowdrifts? Looking around the area, you can immediately notice that the whiteness of the snow is not the same everywhere. The surface of old snowdrifts is usually gray.
Having chosen the nearest whitest snowdrift, it is necessary to investigate the quality of the snow. When walking on a snowdrift, snow suitable for construction makes a crisp sound, and a leg shod with felt boots or fur torbaza leaves a trail about 2 cm deep.
To finally make sure that the snow is not affected by the processes of recrystallization and evaporation, the snowdrift is pierced with a stick in places where its thickness is sufficient for cutting bricks. With even pressure, the stick should smoothly go through the entire thickness of the snow.
Sizes and dimensions of the igloo
The following sizes of round huts are known: floor diameter - from 1.5 to 9 m, height from the floor to the center of the vault - from 1.3 to 4 m.For a family of three to four people, Eskimos build huts with a diameter of about 3 m and a height of about 2 m, but for a more profitable use of the area, they are given an oval or pear-shaped shape in terms of plan. In this case, in the wide part of the room, a bed is arranged, on which they sleep, eat and work, and in the narrow part - the entrance. In fig. 3 is a schematic profile of such a hut; a small vestibule is attached to its entrance, which serves to protect the premises from the wind and also serves as a storeroom.
Longitudinal section of a snow hut, which has a prominent shape in the plan of a pear:
- ground surface,
- snow cover surface,
- bed,
- hanging screen made of fabric,
- screen mounts,
- ventilation hole,
- ice window,
- vestibule,
- entrance,
- hut in plan.
Tools for building an igloo.
The only tool the Eskimos had for building a snow hut was a knife, first a bone knife and then a metal one. The snow knife has a strong, thin blade up to 50 cm long and 4-5 cm wide, with a long handle that allows you to cut snow bricks with both hands.
With the use of a hacksaw, cutting out snow bricks has been greatly simplified, but the need for a snow knife when building huts has not disappeared. A knife is necessary for adjusting bricks when laying, for cutting through a door, ventilation hole and other work. For such work, it is quite enough if the knife has a blade 20-25 cm long. A special snow knife is replaced with an ordinary kitchen knife, to the handle of which a belt or rope loop is tied for convenience.
Choosing a place to build an igloo.
The best construction site is the top of a dense snowdrift with a height of at least 1 m.If demolished in a snowdrift is also suitable for cutting out snow bricks, then such a place can be considered the best. But often snow in thick snowdrifts is unsuitable as a building material. Therefore, one has to look for "young" dense snow near a powerful snowdrift, which serves as a construction site. The place for the preparation of snow bricks should be no further than 20-30 m from this site, since dragging them over a greater distance will take a lot of time. If sleds are available, this work is done with the help of dogs or deer.
Longitudinal section of a snow hut built on a snowdrift:
- A - a couch,
- B - step,
- B - entrance and trench,
- G - descent into the trench,
- D - snowdrift,
- E is the surface of the earth.
Igloo layout, marking.
Having chosen a place for construction and leveling the construction site, they begin to lay out the hut and prepare for laying the basement. Using a stick, a piece of rope and a snow knife, which plays the role of a movable leg of a compass, a circle of the required diameter is drawn in the snow.
Having established the size of the hut, the entry point is marked. If the hut is being built for one night, then the entrance is from the leeward side; if it is to serve as a dwelling for a long time, then the entrance is arranged at right angles to the prevailing wind. The direction of the wind is determined by the snow sastrugs. A place for a couch, occupying at least two-thirds of the area of the hut, is planned opposite the entrance.
Before laying the first row of snow bricks, it is necessary to trample a small indentation along the width of the bricks along the intended circle so that they get an emphasis and a more solid foundation. If the hut is being built on a snow cover covered with an ice crust, then the crust must be removed, otherwise the lower row of bricks may disperse under the weight of the upper rows.
The actual construction of a real igloo
Average "standard" brick size: 60 X 40 X 15 cm. For the first basement row, it is recommended to cut out larger bricks: 75 X 50 X 20 cm. To build a hut that can accommodate 3-4 people, 30-40 bricks are required. Except for 10-12 bricks for laying the first row, the rest are cut in "standard" size. The required shape is given to them during the installation process.
There are two most common ways of laying snow bricks: in circular rows and in a spiral. With both methods, the original rectangular shape of the snow bricks is retained only in the first row; further, when fitting, the bricks take the shape of a trapezoid (meaning the lateral plane of the brick), and when laying the dome in circular rows - triangular. When laid in a spiral manner, the bricks in the dome will have the shape of irregular polygons. Novice builders are advised to use spiral laying, as the most convenient for the construction of large and small huts.
The first row of snow bricks, as can be seen from the picture below, is laid with a slight slope inward; bricks in the first row can also be placed vertically.
As already indicated, it is better to cut out longer and wider bricks for the first row. Care must be taken to ensure that weak or cracked bricks do not fall into the basement of the hut. If, after laying the last brick, a small opening remains in the circle, then a new, longer brick must be cut out, which should completely fill the opening. A gap of about 1 cm is left between the bricks of the first row, since with very dense laying they can be squeezed out of the circle by the pressure of the upper rows.
When laying bricks in a spiral, after finishing the first row, cut off any three bricks diagonally, except for those that fall above the place of the future permanent entrance. The diagonal cut is brought only to the middle of the third brick, as shown in the figure below; the first brick of the second row is laid in its recess, and further laying is carried out inside the circle, from right to left.
To obtain the inclination of the bricks inward, two methods are used: they make a cut at the desired angle on bricks already laid in a row, or each brick is cut before laying. Usually the first method is used. Laying must be thorough. Each brick is rubbed tightly against the neighboring ones. To do this, the builder, putting the brick in place and holding it with his left hand, slips a knife under it and runs it along the brick several times, grinding the surface. Then, moving the brick to the right, close to the neighboring one, he also grinds the vertical seam. After that, with a light blow of his left hand on the end part of the brick, he finally puts it in place. The fine snow that forms in the joints during grinding acts as a cement that holds the bricks firmly.
Before starting the laying of the second row, it is necessary to bring 8-10 bricks inside the hut under construction, which will be used when it will be difficult for the assistant to transfer the bricks from the outside. One person always remains inside, he also cuts through the exit from the needle. Therefore, this "prisoner" should be equipped with a knife, a light source (if construction is completed at night).
the last brick must be shaped so that it, like a wedge, enters the remaining hole, finally closing the vault. This last, wedge-shaped brick, which is larger than the hole, needs to be pushed through and then lowered so that it wedges tightly into the hole.
To facilitate the adjustment of the closing brick, the opening in the dome is given a triangular or rectangular shape. A prepared brick of the same shape, but of a slightly larger size, is pushed in a vertical position through the hole. To do this, slightly raise one or two bricks installed at the top (it is difficult for a novice builder to do this operation without an assistant). Then the closing brick is turned horizontally, lowered onto the hole and carefully cut it, gradually inserting it into the hole until it is tightly wedged in it.
While the person sitting inside the igloo is building the walls, his assistant outside is working on the walls. Large holes, which are formed when the corners of the bricks are broken off, are clogged with pieces of snow and then smoothed out with fine snow, and the cracks are only rubbed with it. In addition, the assistant manages to build around her brick rubble barrier... Such a block of snow protects the bottom row of snow bricks from being blown out in strong winds and serves as a stop for loose snow, which is poured over the entire hut. The sprinkling of the hut is used for additional insulation in case of sharp drops in temperature.
Cross-section of a snow hut built on a thin layer of snow:
- ground surface,
- snow cover surface,
- a bed with a groove for water drainage,
- a fabric screen connected to a chimney,
- wooden chimney,
- entrance,
- snow bricks that serve as an emphasis on the debris,
- compacted snow debris,
- loose snow, poured in severe frosts to insulate the hut.
To build a blockage, a row of bricks is installed around the hut at a distance of 30 cm from the walls and covered with densely packed snow. Only a part of the building is left free, intended for a permanent entrance.
Having laid the closing brick and thus "walled up" himself in the hut, the builder proceeds to seal the cracks from the inside. If dusk has fallen or the construction was carried out in the dark, a light is turned on to detect the cracks. Interior lighting makes it possible to check the flaws of the work from the outside. Having closed the holes and cracks, the builder levels the walls and vault with a scraper, giving them a shape close to a hemisphere. It is especially important to give the desired shape to the vault of the hut. Large depressions should not be leveled by scraping off thick snow from large surfaces.
Further, the igloo can be "glazed" - melting is caused inside, and then air is circulated through a temporary inlet and a ventilation hole, as a result of which what has melted forms a shell of ice. During glazing, the assistant makes an entrance trench outside and covers it with snow plates. A temporary wind barrier is made at the entrance to the trench. The entrance to the igloo should be on the leeward side.
Further, the one who is inside, using the markings previously applied to the snow, makes an exit from the igloo, falling into a trench. Several exits can be made - temporary and permanent. But not simultaneously, but in turn.
The temperature distribution in the snow hut is reported by Stefansson, who took measurements at a frost of -45 ° and the maximum possible heating of the hut. According to him, in the snow tunnel outside the hut, the temperature was -43 °. Inside the hut: on the floor near the sleeping area - 40 °; at the level of the upper part of the door -18 °; at the level of the sleeping area -7 °; at shoulder level of a seated person + 4 °; above the head of a seated person + 16 °. Stefansson further points out that when the outside air temperature is down to -40 °, the entrance to the hut can be kept open all night, and the temperature inside will be close to 0 °. Obviously, this temperature is not achieved by the maximum possible heating, and is kept at its complete cessation overnight.
Other sources indicate that in an unheated hut with a tightly closed entrance, the temperature was kept within the range from +2 to + 6 ° due to the heat release of the people in it. The general rule is that the colder it is outside, the more the temperature inside the igloo can be raised. And vice versa.
Everything, the igloo is built! It is important to remember that the clearer the snow on the igloo, the longer the dwelling will stand, since the mud on the snow causes intense melting of the dome. And even despite the clean snow, with constant use, the igloo becomes unusable every 3-5 months. And each time, the indigenous people and poor explorers make a new shelter anew.
By the way, the Eskimos use a fat lamp to heat their snow huts, which at the same time acts as a hotbed for cooking food and a lamp. Rubbed moss serves as the wick of the fat lamp; saturated with fat, it forms a mushy mass at the bottom of the lamp, part of which is scooped up with a spatula to the edge of the lamp, in the form of a narrow long roller, and ignites. A fat lamp, under close supervision, produces a bright, non-smoking flame, the height of which is easy to adjust. The flame can be reduced to a tongue that barely diffuses light.
In general, we have covered the main points of creating an igloo.
Now a couple of subtleties and we are distributing what was promised at the beginning of the article. The blocks standing next to each other should not touch the lower corners - this deprives them of their flexibility. At the bottom of the joint between adjacent blocks, try to leave small triangular holes, which can then be easily repaired. The vertical joints of adjacent blocks should not coincide - this will make your building strong, since all blocks will be "tied" to each other. Do not move the already placed blocks, so as not to deprive them of their original shape. Lay the snow blocks on a crustal, stronger side, inside the room.
Video tutorials on building an igloo. The first is a detailed, old instructional film:
The second video is not very detailed, but at the end the device of the fat lamp is shown:
And at the end of the third, educational and entertainment video lesson on building an igloo:
So, there would be a pile of snow, yes - 20 on the street, one could build an igloo 🙂
Based on materials (and much more details) http://www.skitalets.ru/books/iglu_kuznetsov/
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Although the Eskimo and Inuit words for “iglu” can refer to different types of dwellings in a snowy area, this article describes what most people imagine when they think of an igloo: a dome-shaped structure made of snow blocks (also called a snow house) ... A properly built igloo keeps the inside temperature between -7 ° C and 16 ° C, even if the outside temperature drops to -45 ° C! Building an igloo is quite simple, it only takes a few hours. All you need is the right snow and some knowledge. The results of your work will surely impress those around you!
Steps
Part 1
Preparing to build an igloo- When checking the density of the snow, measure its depth. To build an igloo, you need snow at least 0.6 meters deep.
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Draw a border for the outer wall of the igloo. With the heel of your boot, draw a circle in the snow to mark the outer edge of the needle. Make sure the snow is dense inside the circle. Try to draw the circle in the correct shape.
Have an idea of the future building. You have to cut out snow blocks inside the outlined circle and lay out igloo walls from them. Thus, the snow house will be built from the center outward, and at the end, after erecting the wall, you will cut the entrance to the igloo from the inside.
Before cutting the blocks, cut a narrow and long straight trench in the snow. The size of the blocks depends on the size of the igloo. The most commonly used blocks are 90 cm long, 38 cm high and about 20 cm wide. Using a snow saw, cut a narrow, straight trench several blocks long in the snow.
Part 2
Erection of walls and domes-
Prepare the blocks and start laying out the first row. Cut the dense snow inside the trench cut earlier into equal rectangular blocks. The coupled blocks can be disconnected from each other by inserting a snow saw between them and moving it slightly from side to side. After cutting out the blocks, place them around the perimeter of the igloo so that they form the bottom row of the wall.
Cut a bevel over the bottom ring of the blocks. Make a slight slope on the top of the first row of rectangular snow blocks so that the row rises slightly as you move along the circle. You can cut a bevel not along the entire lower ring, but on its segment (for example, half of the entire circle). Use a snow knife, machete, or hand saw for this.
Straighten and shape the walls as needed. Try to stack the blocks so that they fit snugly together. As you move up, you will have to adjust the snow blocks by inserting them into cells that decrease with height. Use a snow knife, machete, or hand saw for this.
Add blocks cut from the snow inside the igloo perimeter to the wall. Cut the blocks with a snow knife or machete and stack them into the next row, starting at the bottom of the previous row and working your way up in a spiral circle. As it grows, the wall will begin to bend inward, and the blocks will decrease in size.
Fit the top-most blocks neatly. They are more difficult to fit to adjacent blocks, so take your time and be careful when adjusting these blocks - the strength of the entire building depends on them to a large extent. Use a snow knife or machete to make sure they fit snugly together.
Part 3
Igloo trimCut ventilation holes in the igloo walls to prevent carbon dioxide (CO 2) poisoning. The heat generated by your body will melt the snow on the inner surface of the wall, and a dense snow crust forms on it, which does not allow air to pass through. This crust will not release the carbon dioxide you breathe out, and if there are no ventilation holes in the walls, you could be poisoned by it.
Cut out the entrance to the needle. Now that the walls have been erected and the ventilation holes have been made, it is time to make an exit. Take a snow knife or machete and, crouching in front of the wall, cut a rectangular hole in the bottom row of blocks so that the top edge is at your eye level. Make a through hole.
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Build your igloo on a slope to save time and effort. Of course, the igloo can also be built on a flat area, but by choosing a suitable slope, you will reduce the surface of the walls of the snow house. This means you will need fewer snow blocks and you will reduce your workload.
Use an avalanche probe to test the snow for strength. It is best to cut igloo blocks out of dense packed snow that does not contain loose layers or voids. Check the snow with an avalanche probe or long stick: if the snow is thick enough, they will have difficulty going through it.
The Eskimos, residents of the northernmost regions of our planet, have the skills to survive in harsh climatic conditions that any inhabitant of the middle lane would envy. One of the most important inventions of the Eskimos, time-tested, is the igloo - traditional houses made of ice and snow. We will tell you about the features of this amazing structure in our review.
Researchers believe that Eskimo tribes settled in the Arctic in the XI-XII centuries. Today, the Eskimo population is about 170,000, and they live mainly in three regions: the island of Greenland, which belongs to Denmark, in the north of Canada and the American state of Alaska. By the way, Eskimo is an Indian word that literally translates as "raw food", and the Eskimos themselves call themselves Inuit.
The traditional dwellings of the Eskimos are the summer yaranga - a domed structure made of animal skins and snow igloos that build in the cold season. Building a real igloo is not an easy job that requires certain skills and knowledge.
The igloo can be built in a large snowdrift made of dense snow, or it can be built from individual blocks of ice. The dimensions of the igloo are small: about 3-4 meters in diameter and no more than 2 meters in height. If there are no suitable snowdrifts, then the igloo is built from blocks that are cut out of ice or snow. The blocks are laid in a circle, which gradually tapers towards the ceiling. In order for the structure to acquire greater strength, it is watered during construction. The windows are made of ice blocks, but the igloo can be without windows. In this case, sunlight penetrates through the snowy walls.
The most important thing, from the point of view of the functionality of the entire building, is the correct arrangement of the entrance to the igloo. If the igloo is built in a large snowdrift, then the entrance is made directly in the floor, and a tunnel is broken to reach the surface. If the igloo is built from blocks, then the entrance is always made at the bottom, at floor level. At the same time, no door is provided in a traditional dwelling, the entrance is always open.
Such a low entrance is made so that the warm air under the ceiling does not come out. But the needle is open so that there is always an inflow of fresh air saturated with oxygen into a small room. If there are several people in the igloo and an oil lamp or a cooking stove, which is also used as a heater, is on, then a lot of carbon dioxide is generated in the air and the oxygen content is reduced. The heavier carbon dioxide sinks down and out through the low entrance, and fresh air enters in its place.
Despite the fact that most of the Eskimos no longer live in their traditional houses of ice and snow, there are still Eskimo communities that build igloos and are engaged in fishing for marine animals. In addition, polar explorers and some tourists who go on winter hikes are familiar with the igloo construction technique, because a snow shelter is very convenient.
Why doesn't the needle melt from the inside?
The Igloo is a forced invention of the North American Eskimos. If the arctic was full of wood, the Eskimos might have invented wooden houses. But the niggardly nature provided them with snow alone, albeit in unlimited quantities. The Eskimos sighed, sighed, and even turned ordinary snow into an extraordinary building materialIgloo is a domed structure made of snow blocks with a diameter of 3-4 meters and a height of about 2 meters. In deep snow, the entrance is usually arranged in the floor; a corridor breaks through to the entrance below the floor level. In case of shallow snow, the entrance is arranged in the wall, to which an additional corridor of snow blocks is completed. The igloo's light penetrates directly through the snowy walls, although sometimes windows are made of seal intestines or ice.
The interior is usually covered with skins, sometimes the walls are covered with skins. Grease bowls are used to heat the dwelling and illuminate it.
A good tent and windbreak are good enough for a northerly hike, but there are no special winter tents for sale.
Snow compacted by the wind is much lighter than ice. This means that about three quarters of the volume of bricks is occupied by air, and it does not conduct heat well. Snow brick is like a piece of foam and has high thermal insulation properties. But a hut built in severe frost must be thoroughly warmed up. When a fire is lit in a hut, its inner surface quickly melts and becomes smooth. And immediately the melting stops. This film makes the hut warmer, it also strengthens the vault.
The scourge of a winter tent is moisture. The warmer the tent, the more damp there is. The roof of the hut absorbs moisture like blotting paper, even if the hut is too hot
A hut with a room temperature inside should melt, but it is not. Melting requires excess heat in the snow layer. Snow at the inner surface of the vault has a temperature of 0 degrees, and, in contact with warm air, does not melt, because it cools sufficiently through the thickness of the snow walls. Let's say cooling is slower than warming up. Then the inner layer of snow begins to melt slowly, but when the wall gets wet, it passes the cold outside more easily - it removes heat from the inside faster, and the melting stops. The snow dome itself resists melting when heated from the inside. Of course, in case of mild frost and calm, the hut, heated to room temperature, will melt, but strong frost and wind, exhausting the skier on the way during the day, will keep the walls of his hotly heated snow house at night
When civilization had not yet reached the Eskimo possessions, many tribes did not know a winter home, except for the "igloo", and were quite satisfied with it as a permanent home and lodging for the night on the way. A building slab made of snow is easily cut with a knife, and is hardened in the wall of the structure. Danish traveler and ethnographer Knud Rasmussen writes that the Eskimo alone builds a snow hut for his family in three quarters of an hour.
Here is one of his descriptions:
“The main dwelling could easily accommodate twenty people for the night. This part of the snow house passed into a high portal like a 'hall', where people cleared snow from themselves. The main dwelling adjoined ... a light extension where two families settled. enough, and therefore seven or eight lamps burned at the same time, which is why it became so warm in these walls of white snow blocks that people could walk half-naked for their full pleasure.
Indian tribes live not only in warm places. Read about the igloo - the ice dwelling of the Eskimos!
Igloo is a typical Eskimo residence. This type of structure is a domed structure. The diameter of the dwelling is 3-4 meters, and its height is about 2 meters. The igloos are built, as a rule, from ice blocks or blocks from snow compacted with the help of wind. Also, the needle is cut out of snowdrifts, which are suitable in terms of density and size.
If the snow is deep enough, then the entrance is broken through in the floor, and a corridor to the entrance is also dug. In the case when the snow is still not deep, the front door is cut into the wall, and a separate corridor made of snow bricks is attached to the front door. It is very important that the entrance door to such a dwelling is located below the floor level, as this ensures good and correct ventilation of the room, as well as retains heat inside the igloo.
The lighting in the dwelling comes from the snowy walls, but sometimes windows are also made. As a rule, they are also made of ice or seal intestines. In some Eskimo tribes, whole igloo villages are widespread, which are connected to each other by passages.
The igloo is covered with skins from the inside, and the igloo walls are sometimes also hung with them. To provide even more lighting, as well as more heat, special devices are used. Due to heating, some of the walls inside the igloo can melt, but the walls themselves do not melt, due to the fact that the snow helps to remove excess heat outside. Thanks to this, the temperature in the dwelling is kept comfortable for the existence of people. As for moisture, the walls also absorb it, and because of this, the inside of the igloo is dry.
The first non-Eskimo to build an igloo was Williamur Stefanson. It happened in 1914, and he talks about this event in many articles and in his own book. The unique strength of this type of dwelling lies in the use of uniquely shaped slabs. They allow you to fold the hut in the form of a kind of snail, which gradually tapers upwards. It is also very important to consider the method of installing these improvised bricks, which implies supporting the next slab on the previous brick at three points at the same time. In order for the structure to be more stable, the finished hut is also watered with water from the outside.
Today, igloos are also used in ski tourism, in case emergency shelter is needed, if there are problems with tents or if it is impossible to continue on a further journey in the near future. In order for the skier to know how to build an igloo, special instructions are given before the hike.