Music in the car is a pleasure and entertainment on the road, but there is one unpleasant moment. The speakers in the car are constantly exposed to dust and dirt, all sorts of debris flies in from the street, the speakers in the rear parcel shelf of hatchbacks especially suffer from this. Over time, so much debris accumulates in them that the diffuser begins to make a terrible grinding noise during operation.
There are a couple of car, three-way, coaxial speakers measuring 6x9" with the above symptoms. I’ll say right away that when working you need to use maximum caution, accuracy and patience, if this is not your thing, then it’s better not to even start.
In the preface, I would like to remind you a little theory about the design and operation of dynamic heads; this will make it easier for me to further explain the process in the text.
The basis of the dynamic head (speaker) is the basket, the frame on which everything rests. A diffuser is glued into the wide part of the basket through a suspension. The diffuser produces sound when it vibrates, and the suspension ensures its freedom of movement. The diffuser is usually dome shaped and can be made from pressed paper, polypropylene or even aluminum. The suspension is usually made of rubber; in low-power bass and midrange speakers, it is made of paper. At the constriction of the diffuser there is a coil that moves on a core (core) around the magnet. A permanent magnet increases the emf electromagnetic field, thereby increasing the movement of the diffuser. The coil on the core is centered with a washer creating the necessary uniform gap between the coil. The centering washer is also glued to the speaker basket; without it, the coil would touch the magnet or core. Wires are led from the coil to the diffuser and from it, through flexible “antennae”, to the contact pad for connection to audio equipment.
Crunching and noise in the operation of the speaker occurs due to debris trapped between the coil and the core during their operation (movement). Such garbage may contain metal particles and other magnetic dust, which is difficult to remove. in a simple way. In this case speaker repair starts with disassembling them. I would like to immediately make a reservation that the speakers by their design are not intended for disassembly and, accordingly, the manufacturers of these speakers do not provide for this in their design. But everything that has been assembled can be disassembled, you just need to put your head and hands in the right way.
Disassembling the speaker begins with unsoldering the current-carrying conductors from the diffuser to the terminal block. In our case, this is a multi-way car speaker on the core of which two more smaller ones are attached - midrange and high-frequency speakers. The conductors also need to be unsoldered from them, and the housing securing them to the core must be unscrewed with a screw passing through the core from the magnet side. In a regular speaker, there is a dust cap in this place of the diffuser and there is no need to remove it.
The next step in speaker repair there will be a separation of the diffuser from the basket. We will separate the diffuser along with the suspension, coil and centering washer. Plants and factories usually use glue similar to the domestic “moment”, so I dissolve it with acetone. We fill a regular medical syringe with acetone and wet the suspension in the places where it is glued to the basket. It’s good if you can bend the suspension a little and work underneath it, closer to the glue. We do the same with the centering washer, but don’t pour a lot of acetone, you can peel off something you need.
It can take quite a long time before acetone takes effect, and you need to periodically re-wet it with acetone because it quickly erodes. When separating the diffuser, you do not need to pull on it, you can tear or deform the suspension and the diffuser itself, you can help with a flat screwdriver using it as a spatula. You need to act carefully, slowly, especially when working with sharp objects, otherwise you can easily damage the diffuser and all the work is a waste, and the speaker is a waste. If it does not come off, it is better to add acetone and wait. After separating the diffuser, we move on to the centering washer; it must be handled with the same care and done the same.
Having separated the diffuser from the basket, you can proceed to cleaning the hole around the core (core). To be honest, there are no special recipes here and cleaning a magnet from metal debris is not easy. The gap is very narrow and it is impossible to get there with any brushes. I was able to clean it using a metal paper clip (photo below) which was magnetized on its own and the metal debris stuck to it. You can try with a wooden or plastic stick; sometimes you can blow it with air under high pressure. In general, we clean it as best we can, the main thing is that there is no debris left around the core. It is also necessary to clean the coil itself; a lot of debris also sticks to it. It must be handled no less carefully than other parts; it can be damaged. round shape and then you will have to look for a suitable round mandrel and straighten it, otherwise there will be even more noise from the speaker than before. By the way, in the photo below you can see how it was eaten aluminum frame coils are filled with debris during operation, it happens that the wire frays and a break occurs, in this case a new coil is wound, which will require even more time, concentration and action.
Upon completion of the cleaning, we can say that we have mastered speaker repair, but it remains to be assembled, and this also has its own nuances.
Assembly is done in the reverse order by gluing the elements into place, but you must not just glue them, but glue them evenly! To do this, you need to find an old, unnecessary x-ray or a piece of photographic film, and cut it to a size so that it, rolled into a tube, fits into the gap between the coil and the core (core). This film will help us center the coil and set an even gap. It is advisable to take the thickness of the film such that it fits tightly into the gap without backlash. We place the diffuser in the basket and center the coil with film, align and position it exactly on the basket. First of all, we glue the centering washer; we will glue it with ordinary “moment” glue. We smear the gluing area and press it, in fact we do it as written in the instructions for the glue. It’s inconvenient to press, so regular clothespins will help. We definitely need to wait for the glue to set, otherwise our centering may go wrong. As soon as the glue grabs the washer, glue the diffuser to the basket, but do not remove the film, let it remain until the glue dries completely. After gluing the diffuser, you can put the rim around the suspension in place, turn the speaker over, placing it on flat surface and press it with something heavy. Once the glue has completely dried, check the movement of the diffuser by gently pressing it with your fingers, there should be no extraneous sounds, the diffuser should move in and out easily and without jamming. If yes, then we did everything correctly and centered it well, if not, we will have to repeat everything.
After completing the work with glue and having successfully completed the task of removing debris from the bowels of the speaker, all that remains is to replace the midrange speakers on the cores and solder all the wires in place.
P.S. The metal mesh cover that usually comes with the speaker practically does not protect it from dust and small debris. In the future, in order for the speaker to live longer without repair, I can advise you to glue ordinary women’s nylon tights in two or three layers inside this protective mesh. Through such a filter, small debris will not get inside and will be preserved. appearance and the speaker itself, and the sound will pass through without problems.
This is where I end the article. speaker repair and I hope that the information will be useful to you.
Even the highest quality speakers are not immune to breakdowns. They can be caused by the most for various reasons. If the speaker suddenly stops making sound, and during diagnostics speaker system It became clear that the reason for this was some kind of internal breakdown of the column; it was not at all necessary to contact a service center, much less go buy new equipment.
Nowadays, it is very easy to repair a speaker - all spare parts are freely available, all you have to do is find it necessary tools and carefully study the speaker repair technology. To ensure everything works out exactly, you can watch the corresponding video and simply follow the proposed instructions step by step.
If you have difficulty disassembling the speakers, you can read.
Types of speaker malfunctions
The main part of any speaker is the dynamic emitter, which is responsible for converting electrical signal into sound waves. It also breaks down most often. What are the most common speaker problems?
All emitter failures are usually associated with three main reasons:
- improper operation;
- factory defects - the use of low-quality parts or errors when assembling the device;
- natural wear and tear of acoustic equipment.
It is quite simple to attribute a breakdown to one of the reasons - in the event of a defect in production, the speakers, as a rule, break within a short time after purchase; natural wear, on the contrary, takes a very long time long time- at correct use even cheap, high-quality speakers can last at least ten years. Thus, a sudden breakdown most often refers to errors when working with speakers.
Incorrect operation
The main cause of breakdowns during the operation of speakers is non-compliance permissible limit power of the signal supplied to the emitter. Most often this is due to the fact that the user makes a mistake when determining the power of the speaker and amplifier. This is very easy to do, since power can be calculated using several methods. The values of effective, sinusoidal and amplitude powers can differ dramatically from each other - the excess when taking into account the wrong type of power can exceed 200%. Of course, the column burns out the first time it is plugged into the network.
Overloading of dynamic drivers is quite common in acoustic systems whose speakers are equipped with multiple speakers. In such a speaker, the power of the electrical signal may be incorrectly distributed between the tweeter, midrange speaker and subwoofer. As a rule, the victim of such a problem is the tweeter, which requires significantly less power than its counterparts. The power of the tweeter is usually no more than 1/10 of the total power of the speaker. If a user tries to apply more current to the tweeter by over-boosting the ultra-high frequencies using an equalizer, the fragile high-frequency driver may break instantly.
In addition to electrical problems, mechanical damage to any element of the speaker may also occur. It is usually protected by fabric or metal decorative grille, but it is nevertheless quite easy to damage the emitter. The cap that protects the device from dust, the diffuser suspension and the membrane itself may be damaged - thin film, often made of paper, which is extremely easy to tear or pierce. The consequences of these damages can be very serious: alignment is disrupted, causing the coil or sleeve to break, making sound reproduction physically impossible. The same result is caused by the displacement of the core from the center of the speaker - in this case, the most important details devices get stuck in a magnetic trap.
Such breakdowns are usually caused by very careless handling of the speakers - most often by dropping the device. In this case, they can be damaged as fragile portable speakers not the most durable materials, and massive floor-standing speakers with high power. Although the latter, of course, are better protected from mechanical damage.
Manufacturing defects
All parts of the speaker are usually glued together, and improper gluing can cause the stationary parts to move out of their intended places. Even the diffuser may come off, making it impossible to vibrate and, accordingly, receive sound waves. Poor fastening of moving parts and wires significantly reduces the life of the speaker, and natural wear occurs too quickly.
Natural wear and tear
From wear and tear correct assembly The most fragile parts of the device suffer the most - the suspension and flexible leads - that is, the diffuser holder and the wire that supplies the signal to the coil.
Diagnostics
It seems that it is very simple to distinguish mechanical damage from electrical damage - just remove the protective panel and inspect the speaker for damage. If everything is in order with the integrity of the parts, then the failure is related to the electrical part. However, it is difficult to distinguish some types of breakdowns by ear and eye - for example, a malfunction of the flexible coil lead. In this case, most often the sound does not disappear completely - the speaker may make extraneous sounds and become silent from time to time.
To determine the breakdown of the flexible terminal, as well as coil malfunctions, an ohmmeter is used, connected to the speaker terminals with a static membrane. If the needle starts to twitch, that’s where the problem lies. To fix the damage, you will have to disassemble the speaker, separate the broken parts and install new ones - they can be bought at any radio equipment store.
Using a generator low frequencies and infrasound, it is possible to calculate the detached coil, part of its turns, as well as the diffuser that has moved away from the suspension. In this case, extraneous sounds will appear. They will be heard at a certain frequency when the damaged part of the speaker comes into resonance with the sound.
As for more serious breakdowns, they are much easier to calculate - you don’t even need special tools:
- lightly shake the speaker - if something rolls around inside, it means the coil has fallen off the sleeve;
- take a closer look at the diffuser - if it moves reluctantly, it means that the impact of the coil on it has decreased - probably due to the displacement of the coil, the sleeve is stuck between the magnets;
- if the membrane does not move, it is possible that the coil is stuck with the sleeve due to the displacement of the core.
In the last two cases, the repair consists of releasing the sleeve, then disassembling the device and eliminating the cause of the problem. It is impossible to disassemble the speaker while the sleeve is between the magnets - this can also damage the diffuser membrane.
Replacing flexible leads
Repair can be carried out in two situations - with free access to the terminals, in which case disassembling the speaker is not required, and with the device closed. In the first case, of course, the repair is much simpler. Due to the presence of magnets inside the speaker, it is advisable to use a tool that is not made of steel, if one is available, since magnetizing it can lead to damage to the membrane or cap.
The flexible lead is connected to the electromagnetic coil's own wiring. To separate these parts, you need to heat the gluing area with a soldering iron and carefully tear off the old pigtail from the coil. You must act carefully so as not to damage functional parts.
It is best to purchase a new terminal from a speaker parts supplier. But you can do it yourself - for this you use any stranded copper wire with the same cross-section as original part. Its twisting must be made the same as that of the flexible terminal being replaced. All wires are glued together with special glue and tinned. Then the spare part must be glued to the coil terminal and securely fixed on the inner surface of the diffuser.
Disassembling the speaker to replace parts
The complexity of disassembly depends only on the type of glue used in the production of the emitter. If the structure was fastened using epoxy resin, disassembling the device can be very problematic. But if the glue used is dissolved with acetone or alcohol, you can safely proceed to repair work. It is advisable to use acetone, even if the glue is better dissolved by ethyl acetate - its toxicity is much lower, so the work will be safer for health.
Disassembly proceeds in the following order:
- The suspension comes off. This must be done carefully so as not to damage it. Acetone is carefully poured under the suspension using a pipette. When the glue begins to dissolve, a match or toothpick is inserted into the unstuck area as a support. Moving around the entire circumference, peel off the entire suspension in the same way.
- The centering washer comes off. This can be done either from the body side or from the diffuser side.
After removing these two parts, full access to the insides of the speaker will open. Then it will be possible to repair any of its parts: removing and replacing them is best, although you can try and replace, for example, winding the coil yourself. However, without experience in such work, the result is unlikely to be satisfactory.
Speaker repair: video
Previously, we have already addressed the topic of repairing car dynamic heads or, simply put, repairing a speaker with your own hands. Then we considered a method of restoring the head suspension using ordinary silicone. But we also encounter problems of a more serious nature. That is why today we decided to focus on such a common problem as misalignment.
Naturally, today everyone knows what a dynamic head consists of. Yes, it contains a signal electric type is converted into membrane movement and spreads through the air.
At the time when the same signal is focused on the coil, a magnetic field is formed that interacts with the magnet. And due to the fact that this signal is temporary, the coil begins to vibrate, as if running away from the field. However, the coil has nowhere to run and begins to transmit this signal to the diffuser, which in turn transmits it into the air, producing sound. Naturally, this process is transferred in simple words, and he's on technical terms will sound completely different. But the essence itself is important.
An iron core is used here to direct the field. In turn, this core is attached to permanent magnet. It is a round disc-type iron platform with a sleeve in the center, which consists of a voice coil. In order for this coil to move easily, there is a special gap in the middle of the magnet and the core. And due to some unfavorable factors, the glue that connects the disk to the magnet is weakened and the core crushes the coil, which leads to the immobility of the diffuser. The speakers may work, but you won't be able to hear any bass.
How to get out of this difficult situation? And is it possible to make the speakers return to their normal state? This is exactly what will be discussed later in the article. So, in the situation that I encountered, the speaker mount was broken, and because of this, I immediately started with the centering washer. It happens that in speakers the same centering washer is attached with very weak glue.
Therefore, in order to separate the washer, you just need to moisten the junction of the chassis with it with simple acetone and wait a couple of seconds. And in some cases, acetone alone is not enough. Most often this concerns high-quality speakers, where strong and high-quality glue is used to attach the washer and chassis. Here you need to resort to real vandalism. Namely, you need to use a utility knife to cut off the washer and wires running from the voice coil towards the speakers. 
Next you need to disconnect the diffuser.
At the end of these manipulations, it becomes clear that the core sticks to the magnet and needs to be put in its place, namely in the center. However, it is worth noting that this is not at all easy to do, because here you need to work with iron and a permanent magnet.
They interact extremely reliably with each other, and it will be difficult for you to place the core in the center. It is important to understand that the voice coil is completely attached to the diffuser and is crushed. Therefore, you need to tighten the diffuser itself. After freeing the coil, you need to carefully inspect it.
If the varnish that covers its wire is damaged or the coil itself is dented, additional reconstruction of the coil is also required.
To repair the coil, the first thing you need to do is look for metal sheets, the thickness of which is half a centimeter.
These sheets need to be attached between the core and the magnet. In general, we need to fill all the space that the coil occupies. 
In this case, each plate must be inserted evenly so that the distance is equal on each side.
After all this, you need to glue the magnet to the washer holding the core itself. Best to use for this good glue by type of moment.
You can also take epoxy for these purposes, but here you need to mix it with sawdust or pieces of fabric for greater reliability.
Then, after the glue has hardened, you can remove all the plates and put the entire speaker back together.
The suspension and centering washer sit on the same glue. In this case, it is also possible to additionally repair the suspension.
In this way, you can repair heads of various types.
And I also want to note one point: if you decide to sell your car and don’t know where to start, just call the Center-Auto company, which will buy your car. Even if it is after an accident, contact and receive money on the same day.
The technique can be used to repair the 25GDN-1 (10GD-34) speaker and other similar speakers and cannot be regarded as the only correct one.To do this you will need the following basic materials:
1. Suspension to match the speaker
2. Any contact adhesive (Moment-1, 88)
3. Latex or diluted PVA
Hangers are supplied uncut as per internal size, and externally because are used not only for repairing 75 GDN. It must be cut to the required diameter.
The cap comes off by soaking the glue with acetone. The place for gluing the suspension (on the diffuser and holder) is cleaned. The diffuser is cut around the perimeter by 2 mm. Using strips of paper (plastic, etc.), the moving system is centered (the strips are placed in the gap between the coil and the core of the magnetic system). Contact glue is applied to the suspension, diffuser and holder (the suspension will initially lose its shape, then return to its original position). And, armed with deft hands, we evenly lower the suspension onto the diffuser and holder. It is better to slightly pull the diffuser out of the holder so that it first lies on the diffuser, and then glue it to the holder together. We take out the strips, control the quality of the assembly and glue the cap. For this you can use PVA or 88 glue.
To make the process easier, you can peel off the washer from the diffuser by soaking it with acetone (fortunately, the quality of the adhesives on our speakers leaves much to be desired), and unsolder the leads (or better yet, replace them altogether).
You can, of course, peel off the washer from the holder by using glue solvent 88 - ethyl acetate.
Then, you need to put the suspension on a flat surface, smear the diffuser and suspension with glue, and then lower the diffuser with the coil onto it. Then we apply 88 glue to the suspension, holder, and BF to the diffuser and washer, center it, use the above method to glue the moving system.
It is considered good form to pour latex (or diluted PVA) into the area indicated in the figure.
It is also good to make holes under the hood for better ventilation.
Prepared based on portal materials "www.diffusor.spb.ru"
You can often come across requests for help in repairing and rewinding the coils of burnt-out speakers; articles on this topic have been on the Internet for a long time, but we decided to make our own. So, I got my hands on a burnt-out Pioneer subwoofer speaker from a TS-WX303 subwoofer; the rated power of the speaker is about 250 Watts. It seems to me that the former owner went too far with the power and as a result our speaker burned out.
When you press the diffuser, a clearly audible grinding sound is produced, this is the coil rubbing against the magnetic core, possibly falling apart, after disassembling the speaker everything will become clear. The main difficulty is to disassemble the speaker, because it is very important not to damage the speaker suspension, it’s good when the suspensions are rubber, such ones come off and come off with a bang, in the case of foam rubber and their analogues, everything is not as simple as it might seem at first glance.
So, a photo of my patient:
Personally, I disassemble speakers in one of two ways: with a thin blade, or by soaking them in a solvent. In the second case, you need to work strictly outside or in a well-ventilated area, but not at home or in the entrance. You need to prepare in advance all the tools necessary for repairs, perhaps primary tools for dismantling the suspension and centering washer. The centering washer is located under the diffuser, usually yellow color made of thick pressed mesh fabric.
For soaking, you can use a syringe, draw the solvent into the syringe and carefully spray the outer parts of the suspension, in the place where it is glued to the “basket”. Soaking usually takes a long time; in 5 minutes you will not separate the suspension from the speaker body. The centering washer is soaked in exactly the same way.
This is not the first time I have rewinded speakers, and the dismantling operation for this speaker took me about 5-7 minutes. After soaking, we unsolder the conductive wires from the terminals and remove the diffuser with the coil from the frame. In principle, it is possible and necessary to unsolder the wires before soaking, it will be more convenient... We look at the photo of the coil of my burnt speaker:
The photo clearly shows overheated and charred turns of copper wire; this coil will have to be unwinded completely and rewound again. Some unscrupulous repairmen practice the following type of repair: they unwind part of the burnt wire and connect the break points together by soldering. Naturally, such a “homeless repair” will not last long; in addition, after unwinding some of the turns from the coil, it will noticeably reduce the total resistance of the speaker, which will certainly affect the power.
In general, if the coil is more or less alive, you can leave it, after soaking the coil with varnish, it will last - but not for long. This option is applicable for beginners, for those who are afraid to rewind the coil due to certain circumstances (for example, there is no necessary wire for rewinding).
Ideally, the speaker coil should be wound with BF-2 glue. It's not easy to find, but it's the most the best option. We glue the suspension with rubber glue 88, it is usually sold in small jars in construction stores, this glue is used to glue carpets onto subwoofers:
Finding the right wire is also a problem, good wire donors are contactor (starter) coils, which are sold separately in electrical equipment stores and are not expensive, this is exactly the wire I use. Also the right wire can be found in the degaussing loop of picture tubes (CRT), a sample of my wire for winding is below in the photo:
I removed this wire and rewound it just from the starter, the diameter of the wire is approximately 0.35, by the way, it is not recommended to wind it with a wire that is too thin because The speaker power will drop sharply. If you take a wire thinner than it was, then you will have to make a little more turns than there were, otherwise the resistance of the speaker will be less.
You need to wind the wire turn by turn, winding a speaker is a delicate and labor-intensive task, the main thing is not to abandon everything halfway... I wound it with a wire of approximately the same cross-section, I got 4 layers in total, covered each layer with BF-2 glue and let it dry for about two hours. Determining the required length of a new wire with sufficient accuracy is not so difficult; you need to calculate the length of one turn (knowing its radius), multiply by the number of turns in the layer and the number of layers. My speaker required about 20 meters of enamel wire. The diameter of the wire is determined using a micrometer or caliper. For winding, it is better to use a specialized machine, which greatly simplifies the entire winding process; if you don’t have such a machine, you will have to wind the coil manually.
After the glue has dried, we begin to assemble the speaker. I would like to note that gluing the centering washer and the suspension at the same time is highly not recommended, because with a 99% probability, after the glue dries, your speaker will groan. First you need to glue either the centering washer or the suspension (I glue the first). That is, we coat the edges of the washer and the gluing points on the speaker body with a brush, let it dry a little and carefully put the diffuser on the body so that the coil does not rub against the magnetic core.
It will be difficult the first time, so you can coat the washer with glue not entirely, but only at several points; if centering is successful, you can re-glue it.Next, we glue the suspension; when connecting the suspension to the speaker basket, you need to center the suspension itself in parallel, so that there are no rustling or grinding noises when the diffuser moves. Afterwards we solder the conductive ones copper wires(conductors) running from the coil to the speaker terminals and let the speaker dry for 24 hours.
There is another, more accurate option for centering the coil, but to do this you will have to remove the cap from the diffuser. After removing the cap, we put the diffuser and coil in the basket, then take A4 paper, cut it along the wide side lengthwise into two halves and roll it into a tube of approximately the same diameter as the core of our speaker and carefully insert it into the gap between the core and the coil, then You can safely glue the centering washer with the suspension. After the glue has dried, pull out the paper and glue the cap back on.
Most dynamic heads are not intended for disassembly and are, as it were, disposable (non-separable, difficult to repair) components of speaker systems. In practice, it is successful to disassemble the speaker standard design and it is often possible to reassemble it. The main task is to soften the glue that holds many components dynamics, and separating them from each other without injury or deformation.
If you have questions about rewinding speakers, ask them here, we will try to help!