LED backlight for Black&Decker EPC12CA drill/driver. LED illumination of the working area of a drilling machine How to make lighting for a screwdriver diagram

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Let's watch a video of homemade lighting:

As you understand, for our illumination we need a diode. It can be purchased at a store or pulled from an unnecessary LED flashlight.

It looks like this:

Also, in addition to the diode, we need a resistor, a battery, a two-core copper wire that does not straighten, a switch and the box itself for all this:

So, as you know, the wire that is longer on the diode is “+”. It needs to be connected to our two-core copper wire. This can be done by simply inserting the “positive” wire of the diode under the insulation or soldering it, as we did:

Now you need to assemble the mechanism itself, that is electrical circuit. Copper wire We connect it through a resistor to the switch and then to the battery, which will be the power source.

We check the structure we have assembled. As you can see, everything works:

That's all! Now we take the tool we need: for example, a jigsaw. We secure our box with “internals” in convenient location our tool using tape or Velcro as shown in the photo:

Now, due to the fact that our two-core wire is copper and does not straighten, we can direct it to any surface without any problems:

We can do the same with a drill (and indeed with any tool). In the same way, we fix the structure on the drill and direct the LED to the place on the surface with which we will have to work:

Now you can easily use your favorite tool, but it already has a backlight that will make your “life” easier.

I decided to try to build a backlight into a screwdriver with my own hands, since I was tired of periodically arming myself with a carrier or a flashlight in one hand, a screwdriver in the other, and even holding the screws with my teeth. I don’t know how to assemble the backlight according to the mind, so I assembled and configured it at random. We look and read everything that came out of this a little lower in the topic. homemade jigsaw lighting, powered by 220.

This is what it looks like before installing the backlight. The complete set of this model, there was also an instruction manual, but it was not included in the frame (it lies far away) :-)

A slightly blurry shot of the place where the button and diodes were installed.

I picked out the LEDs from a Chinese lantern, and took a switch from it. You can, of course, simply tape the flashlight itself to the screwdriver with tape, then you won’t have to disassemble the screwdriver itself, and such illumination will shine brighter. :-)

I shortened one of the contacts on the button so that they became the same.

I disconnected the battery and used a tester to determine where it is (+) and where it is (-)

I decided to install 4 LEDs, because the space allows. I fed them sequentially.

I don’t understand much about electrics, so I started selecting a resistor with 5 kOhm and settled on 1.1 kOhm 0.5 W.

Everything has been selected and prepared, now you can disassemble the screwdriver. The screws are of different lengths, so we stack them according to the location of the screwdriver holes.

I tried to power the lights from the motor so that the backlight would turn on simultaneously with the trigger being pressed, but I didn’t like the fact that the brightness changed with the engine speed.

I thought about disassembling the switch and looking for a place where I could hook up the diodes, but when I saw this picture under the cover, I didn’t want to disassemble it further. :-)

Then, after thinking carefully, I came to the conclusion that the backlight was not needed all the time, so I started looking for a place to install a switch for the flashlight.

It didn’t take me long to look for a place, since there isn’t much of it there; in some places I had to sharpen the stiffening ribs. I decided to place the button immediately behind the bit holder, folded both halves and drilled a hole in the base of the case with a Dremel, periodically trying on the button. Since the case is thick and the black rim of the button does not go out, I chamfered the case around the hole.

To have something to glue the button on, I found this canopy.

I put it in a pocket between the stiffening ribs and filled it with hot glue, leaving space for the button.

I cut out and glued a piece of glue stick onto the button; I probably should have poured the canopy right away at the right angle, then I wouldn’t have had to cut out such a crooked piece. :-)

I tried it on but did not glue it, since the wires were not soldered yet.

I glued paper tape to the place of the future holes for LEDs, marked the centers of the holes, marked them, and drilled them first thin drill, then drilled it out to the diameter of the LEDs.

By the way, when drilling for a diode, try to set the direction of the drill so that when you install the LED in its place and turn it on, the light falls just below the drill chuck. Then you will not need to adjust the LEDs in your seats. A little lower, this is the correction for a long drill or bit.

Trying on diodes, remove the interfering partitions, but without fanaticism, otherwise the case will become rubber. :-)

I soldered the wires to the button and the LEDs, after which I glued the button to the piece of hardware, heat-shrinked the resistor and placed it vertically next to the button.

I connected the diodes to these wires under the main switch, simply cut off the insulation from them and soldered my wires onto them. I did not solder on the terminals themselves, so as not to overheat the switch body and the delicate insides.

We connect the battery and check.

I closed the halves of the housing and made a test switch on with the nozzle installed, placing it against the wall so that I could see where the light bulbs were shining. After which, I disassembled it, coated the button and LEDs with hot glue for fixation, and finally assembled the screwdriver.

The button is tight and slightly recessed, so you won’t accidentally press it. The LEDs stick out, but time will tell; if they get in the way, I'll grind them off flush.

A fragment of a video testing this backlight, so to speak, in the field.

Overall, I’m happy with the lighting; I think a flashlight taped together would have looked worse. :-)

Almost everything modern instruments for repairs are equipped with special lighting. The device helps to view the work area without special lighting fixtures. This function is especially important on screwdrivers, drills and rotary hammers, where the accuracy of the work is of great importance.

Why do you need a backlight in a screwdriver?

The principle of operation of the screwdriver backlight includes an activation function at the moment when the device itself is turned on. Lighting is a necessary feature of a screwdriver in order to perform the job efficiently and accurately.

Advice! The cost of a screwdriver equipped with backlight is an order of magnitude higher than a conventional device. It's better to buy a device highest quality, and do the lighting yourself.

If the lighting in the room is poor, limited or completely absent, then the backlight on the device itself will become ideal option to solve the problem. Some craftsmen try to arm themselves with a flashlight or phone to improve visibility. Then quality and speed relative to the execution of the main work are lost.

Sometimes an expensive screwdriver with a built-in lighting system continues to work, but the lighting element itself fails. Then you can return the device to full functionality yourself. It happens that the power of the already built-in LED is not enough, then an auxiliary mobile lighting system is needed.

There are various concepts for installing backlighting on an electrical appliance. There are more complex options, which require housing modifications and complex wiring. There are more simple options, the implementation of which does not require effort.

How to make your own backlight

Making a backlight for a screwdriver does not require special knowledge in mechanics, expensive materials and a lot of time for modeling. There are several simple mechanisms implementation of backlights for screwdrivers. But of all the possible modifications, we can single out the simplest in terms of implementation and mechanization. All necessary details found in any home:

Simple pencil with wooden case and a graphite rod.
A small electric motor from toy car or other small device.

Note! The motor must have a rubber or plastic pulley. If this element is not present, then such a device will not work.

An eraser that can be purchased at any office supply store.
Light-emitting diode small size. You can pull out the part from an old flashlight or toy.
Soldering iron.
Adhesive that will withstand thermal stress.

Advice! It is better to use for gluing glue gun. The connections will be of better quality, and the glue itself partially plays the role of an insulator.

Instructions for making the simplest backlight for a screwdriver:

Saw off part of the pencil. The length of the piece should be no more than 5 centimeters. This “part” will serve as a housing for the LED.
Pull out, knock out or drill out of wooden base kernel.
There should be wires coming out of the motor that need to be pulled through a piece of an empty pencil.
Solder the wires from the motor to the LED wires. The soldering principle does not require phase determination. The motor is a kind of voltage generator.
Pour a little glue inside the pencil, where the wires are already located, and apply the substance to the body of the pencil on the side where the LED is located.
While the glue is still wet, quickly stretch the wires that connect the LED and the motor so that the light bulb is tightly attached to the pencil.

Important! There should be a lot of glue at the junction of the pencil body and the LED. The layer of adhesive substance must be at least 2 millimeters.

The last stage is the installation of the backlight to the screwdriver body.

This procedure requires correct placement each element of the backlight mechanism:

At the top of the screwdriver body, apply a little glue and glue the motor. In this case, the pulley should protrude above the screwdriver chuck.
At the bottom, strictly opposite the place where the motor will be located, glue a pencil with an LED. The placement relative to the cartridge is selected individually.
Place the wires connecting the electric motor and the LED along the body. If necessary, secure with electrical tape or attach with hot-melt adhesive.
Place a rubber band on the screwdriver chuck and the motor pulley.

As the screwdriver operates, the chuck will spin, which will set the rubber band in motion. The element, in turn, starts the motor pulley. The lighting system is ready. Such a device will be in no way inferior in quality to store-bought devices, and at the same time costs a penny. All functions and characteristics correspond to factory products.

The backlight on a screwdriver is a must-have device that will help you do the job efficiently and quickly. The cost of devices equipped with this device is quite high. You can equip your screwdriver with lighting yourself, following the recommendations of experts.

Any serious machine needs its own backlight, independent of anything else. At one point I got tired of spinning table lamp during work, directing it first to the machine, then back to the table. And then I hardware store got an LED module...

The module is designed for 12 volts, but I didn’t want to fence off the transformer power supply, although the space allowed.

Having picked out the compound in the right places to check the connections, I sketched out its diagram:

The diagram shows two pairs of LEDs connected to each other in series and connected to the power source in parallel. A banal reduction in the value of the resistors did not produce results, since when serial connection they refused to light up at 5 volts, even when replacing the resistors with jumpers.

The most the simplest way remake the module to operate on 5 volts - unsolder 2 resistors and use jumpers to achieve a parallel connection of the LEDs:

With such a connection The resistor value should be slightly lower than 33 ohms , but there wasn’t a wide selection of low-resistance resistors, much less SMD ones. The brightness of the glow dropped a little, but not fatally.

Now all that’s left to do is assemble everything into a heap, or rather secure it on a drilling machine.

The telephone charger was attached using a clamp, already behind the existing bolt, so as not to drill into the cast iron. The pins of the plug are slightly shortened, the wires soldered to them are inserted into the junction box of the electric motor. When the machine is turned on, voltage will be supplied to the motor with the power supply, and the backlight will light up.

Thinking about it for a long time the best option location of the LED module on the machine, I came to the conclusion that it it is better to attach it to the front part of the quill . In this position Workspace it will be better lit, and the shadow from the drill will not interfere.

For more uniform illumination It is necessary to place another module on the back side, but for now I considered this unnecessary.

That's basically it. IN general operation will indicate whether illumination is necessary to the rear of the drilling area. There’s one more detail that doesn’t make me happy: the power supply turns on with a 2-second delay. If I can’t get used to it, I’ll have to install another block.

Added 01/01/17

I was pleased with the backlight, I even got used to the fact that the power supply starts with a delay, but...

The original Chinese cartridge died; a self-clamping one, 2 times longer, was installed as a replacement. When drilling with small drills, it began to create a shadow. It was decided to make a ring light: