Sculptural composition, work by Novoselov A.V.

For all types of carvings, various elements Decorating your home, furniture, souvenirs and other crafts requires a special tool.

Tools for carving can be distinguished as main (cutting) and auxiliary (for drilling and sawing, carpentry, marking). Various electrified household tools and devices based on an electric motor that the master can make himself.

All tools must be excellent quality so that you can carry out smoothly carvings of any complexity.

The cutting tool should be made of good steel, light and comfortable, perfectly sharpened so that wood cuts like butter, and it should be kept in perfect condition.

A dull tool crumbles, crumples, rather than cuts the wood, and the cuts and the carving itself look rough and careless. This ruins your mood and often discourages you from finishing your work. It’s easy and pleasant to work with a sharp tool; the drawing turns out clean, precise, and beautiful. By finished product You can always determine not only the skill and handwriting of the master, but also how and how he performed the work.

Cutting tool

Bogorodsky knife, used for sculptural carving, takes its name from Bogorodsk sculptural carving.

Bogorodsky knife

Knife-jamb(chamfer sharpening angle 20°, bevel angle 35 0;45°;60°), used for flat-notched, flat-relief, relief, openwork carvings.

Knife-jamb

Knife cutter- used as an auxiliary tool for various types thread.

Knife cutter

Straight chisels(sharpening angle 18-20°); used as an auxiliary tool for various types of carvings.

Straight chisel

Semicircular chisels- the main tool used to perform all types of wood carving. There are: - flat (R˃H), medium (R=H), steep (R˂H).

Semi-round chisels

Sameski - cranberries These are chisels with a curved blade which allows, when carving, not to touch the surface being processed with the handle. There is a cranberry-flat chisel and a cranberry-corner. cranberry-semicircular chisel.

Cranberry chisels

Ceramic chisels resemble cool semicircular chisels. The width of their canvas is 2…3 mm. Designed for cutting thin veins, the cross-section of which corresponds to the profile of the tool.

Ceramic chisel

Chisels - corners or geismus.(angle between cutting edges 50-70°). Used to make a V-shaped groove, used to make elements of contour threads.

Corner chisel or Geismus

Stichel. Stichels always have a bend angle of 15 degrees. Their handles are most often in the form of a fungus.Used for sampling various veins when making engravings.

Stichel

Klepiki. The rivets come in the most different sizes, but they have only three forms of sharpening: sword, leaf and nail. The first two are called the sword rivet and the leaf rivet.

They are used in flat-relief and volumetric carvings to clean up the background in hard to reach places.

Rivet-sword, rivet-leaf

Chisel-nail. Marigolds differ from ordinary rivets in the shape of their sharpening. It resembles a fingernail to them. The purpose of marigolds is to clean hard-to-reach places and make elements of staple threads.

Chisel-nail

Spoonmen(spoon knives). The best spoon holder is a sharpened ring with a rod welded to it. Spoons are needed to remove a large amount of material in the recesses and to process the internal walls when making dishes.

Spoonmen

Punches and coins- these are steel rods with a pattern at the working ends. They are most often used for embossing backgrounds in flat-relief and relief carvings.

The cutting tool is made of tool steels:

1-carbon (U10; U12; U10A; U12A), when sharpened, are identified by a white beam of sparks with individual stars.

2-Alloyed (XB5; X12; Ch12M), when sharpened they produce yellow or orange sparks.

3-High-speed steels (P18; P9), when sharpened they give dark red sparks.

Tool sharpening and dressing

Of great importance for performing high-quality wood carving is correct sharpening tool.

Tool sharpening consists of two stages:

1- chamfering;

2- edits.

1. Chamfering. The chamfer can be removed using an electric sharpener (see figure), a sharpener with manual drive or manually on an abrasive stone.

Electric sharpener for sharpening and dressing tools: a - mechanized double-sided sharpening machine with devices for sharpening, straightening and polishing tools: 1 - movable stop; 2 - felt circle; 3 - protective screen; 4 - abrasive wheel; 5 - engine; b - movable stop device;: 1 - horizontal movement clamp; 2 - movable platform for selecting the sharpening angle; 3 - bolt - vertical movement clamp; c - device for straightening and polishing tools (diagram): 1 - electric motor; 2 - belt drive; 3 - felt circles; 4 - wooden circles for corners; 5 rubber wheels with abrasive; 6 - bearings; 7 - metal frame; 8 - movable stop; 9 - shaft.

The location and movement of the tool during sharpening is shown in the figures.

Chamfering: a - on straight chisels; b - on semicircular and sloping chisels: 1 - external chamfer; 2 - internal chamfer; c - on corner chisels: 1 - internal chamfer; 2 - external chamfer.

Position of the chisel when sharpening: 1 - straight chisel; 2 - semicircular and flat; 3 - chisel - corner;

When sharpening you must:

Withstand specified angle sharpening;

Maintain the shape of the blade, the chamfer should be smooth without signs of bending;

Blueing of the instrument is not allowed (prevented by periodically wetting the instrument in water).

2. Editing. Tool straightening means increasing the cleanliness of blade sharpening, removing burrs, and improving sharpness. Microcorundum whetstones (Fig.), sandpaper, and leather are used for straightening the instrument.

Sharpening the joint: a - sharpening parameters: 1 -

chamfer; 2 - sock; 3 - blade; 4 - heel;

b - hand position when working;

For semicircular cutters, a dressing board is made from linden, and transverse grooves are made on its surface for cutters of different sizes (Fig.).

Dressing boards and belts

1 - board with a set of profile bars and touchstones;

2 - straightening board with chisel profiles;

3 - leather or canvas belt for straightening.

Before straightening, rub GOI paste into the straightening board. The inner surface of semicircular incisors is adjusted with round wooden rods wrapped in fine sandpaper or leather rubbed with GOI paste. You can edit the instrument on a rotating felt wheel rubbed with GOI paste.

A properly sharpened tool must have a given sharpening angle, blade shape, and be free of burrs.

When cutting across the grain of a pine or spruce board, the cutter should leave a clean cut without breaking the grain.

Literature:

1. Burikov V.G., Vlasov V.N.

House carving - M.: Niva Rossi together with the Eurasian Region Company, 1993-352 p.

2. Vetoshkin Yu.I., Startsev V.M., Zadimidko V.T.

Wooden arts: textbook. allowance. Ekaterinburg: Ural. state forestry engineering univ. 2012.

There is one true rule: a sharp blade is much safer than a dull one. It's right! The rule applies not only to the production of sharp edges of a chisel, but also to other carpentry and even kitchen utensils. Therefore, first of all, it is necessary that the pointed edge of the chisel is regularly cleaned at least a couple of times a year. If the tool is actively used in work, it is necessary to clean it much more often.

First stage

Even a set of brand new chisels that have not yet been used in work may not be suitable for starting to work with them. Even though they remain sharp for a very long time, you should know how to sharpen a chisel Right. After all, the quality of the work performed depends on this.

If the joinery is a little old, has a little uneven edges or rust, then you can correct this with a sanding wheel. Gently hold the beveled chisel against the grinding wheel to remove large burrs and rust.

To work, you need a three-level sharpening stone - the smallest, beginner and medium, in order to achieve greater sharpness of the chisel. Sharpening stones can be purchased at hardware or garden stores and are often used for sharpening kitchen knives. The stone you purchase should come with lubricant, or purchase it separately. Note:

• Do not use water-based lubricant on oil stones. You need to buy for them special means in construction stores;
• Waterstones prefer water as a lubricant. They need to be soaked in ordinary water for a few minutes, after which they can be used. This method is quite common in Japan.

Now you need to prepare the stones accordingly. Usually such stones come with instructions. Instructions are also written for oil lubricants.

Sharpening a chisel

We start sharpening ours from the flat side, it should be so sharp that it will look like a mirror. We begin to move the tool intensively along the sharpening stone. It is important that when sharpening, your hand is fixed, so the chisel will be sharpened smoothly. Do not allow yourself sudden movements: everything should be slow and as smooth as possible.

When minor scratches begin to appear on the whetstone, move to the fine-grained side, and then to the very fine side. The flat or, as it is also called, the even side of the tool will be ideally sharpened when it begins to look like a mirror.
Some tips:

• You cannot move either the whetstone or the chisel from side to side. We move only along the length of the sharpening stone.
• When working, use the entire surface of the whetstone.
• Be sure to clean your hands and chisel from dust, as it will obscure appearance products.

Wood chisel sharpening angle

This can be done manually, but there is a very high chance of making a mistake. To obtain perfect angle tilt, place the chisel in a special sharpening device, tighten the screws so that the product is firmly fixed. The angle of inclination largely depends on the type of chisel being sharpened:

• cleaning the chisel - set at an angle of about 20 degrees;
• for a regular chisel, increase the angle by five degrees.

Additional finishes

Usually, after sharpening, the chisel can already be used, but if you want it to be even sharper, then it makes sense to add a microbevel. In fact, this is another small bevel, which is made at the very tip of the chamfer. This necessary step when performing very delicate and precise work. To make a micro-bevel, you need to adjust the sharpening apparatus to work at an angle of 5 degrees. Repeat the work done using a fine-grained stone.

A chisel is a carpenter's tool that can be used to cut wood into difficult places, chamfering and trimming wood when processing furniture.

All types of chisels are divided according to their purpose into: carpentry, wood carving, turning.

The difference between a chisel and a chisel

The chisel is in demand where it is necessary to gouge out deep grooves and sockets. The device looks like an elongated metal bar mounted on a handle. The end of the chisel handle is looped with a crimping piece that protects the handle from splitting.

Cutting techniques with a chisel: a, b, c - trimming and cleaning tenons, sockets, grooves, d - cutting grooves, e, f - chamfering, g, h, i - processing curved surfaces.

The chisel, which is a hand-held device for woodworking, is represented by a sharpened plate-like steel element with a handle. In other words, the design of a chisel is a sharpened blade with a handle (wooden or metal).

A chisel with a chisel is distinguished by the angle of the sharpened cutter and the absence of a 2-sided chamfer in the length of the working element relative to the side being sharpened. Another difference is the significant d of the metal rod of the bit. Therefore, it is completely unrealistic to confuse these two carpenter’s tools.

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Classifications of chisels

All types of chisels are divided into:

• carpentry;
• wood carvings;
• turning

Scheme of cutting with a chisel: 1 - chips, 2 - workpiece, 3, 4 - cutters.

There is another division:

• according to the variant of movement in the thickness of the material;
• according to the shape of the handle;
• to size.

The basis for dividing instruments into groups is also taken as follows:

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Operating principle of devices

The movement of the chisel in the thickness of the material occurs due to short tapping on the handle with a special percussion instrument: with a mallet or hammer.

This type hand tools It is popular when processing hard wood varieties, when colossal physical forces are required.

The devices are equipped with an elongated handle and a cutting element. Using a chisel, hold it in your hand, and with the other you perform monotonous taps on the handle. The handle structure is strengthened by a loop. For greater effectiveness of the procedures, use a hammer made of rubber or polyurethane.

Another type of chisel is with a long handle, but a shortened cutter. Their purpose is for manipulation with two hands when moving the instrument.

Chisels (a), flat (b) and semicircular (c) chisels: 1 - blade, 2 - cap, 3 - handle, 4 - ring.

Work with such devices is carried out on soft varieties tree. The smooth head of the rounded handle fits comfortably in your fist. It is possible to use a rubber hammer when the density of the wood is high and it is necessary to improve movement in the thickness of the rock.

They produce varieties of chisels, the movement of which in the thickness of the material is carried out exclusively with the help of hands. They are shorter and thinner than other options. The movement through the material is affected by the angle of sharpening of the cutter and the volume of work (dimensions of the processed area). Professional carvers and inlaymakers work with similar types of devices.

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Cutting surface shape

The transverse shape of the cutting surface is divided into:

• straight;
• radius;
• flat;
• corner;
• stapled.

The straight shape of the working element has no curvature. A tool with a flat profile is subdivided across it by width and thickness, by bend or straight cut shape.

A frequently encountered type of device is a radius, the cutting element of which is represented by a segment of a circle. When choosing this variety, a small check is carried out: the chisel, when positioned at the end, when turning, should outline a complete circle around its axis. Such a device with a universal operating principle will allow you to do carpentry with ease and precision.

A box or staple type is a tool whose cutting element has sides of different heights.

Angle chisels - their profile resembles the V in Latin. The main criterion here is the height of the corner edge and the 90º angle itself.

Longitudinal shape of the cutting part:

• bent;
• cranberry

Klyukarza has a steep longitudinal bend of the cut, which begins to bend more strongly closer to the end of the tool blade.

The curved type is endowed with full longitudinal bending of the blade. In this case, the surface is curved along the entire length, and not just in one part, as in cranberries.

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Learning to work with a chisel correctly

Working with a chisel seems to be not an easy task and quite labor-intensive, which should be learned. For manipulation, force from hand pressure is used. But when there is little strength in the hands, and significant effort is required, in such cases it is appropriate to use a mallet. A mallet is a carpenter's hammer made from hard wood. A chisel paired with a mallet is used only during chiselling. For stripping and trimming procedures, it is permissible to use one chisel.

Before starting work, markings are applied with the device for the shape of the hole, socket or notch. The size of the tool is selected in accordance with the upcoming volume of work and the size of the slotting area. For ease of use, the slotting device is clamped in the left hand, and a mallet is taken in the right. Using a chisel, light taps are applied, which become more and more intensified as they go deeper into the thickness of the material.

Professional carpenters and carvers, as well as home wood craftsmen, always adhere to a certain pattern when working with a device. First of all, a pencil sketch is applied to the wooden blank - a drawing. Then a recess is cut along the contour using the blade of a knife for wood carving. Only after clearly identifying all contour lines Using a knife, they move on to manipulating with a chisel.

Methods of using the tool are determined taking into account what type of processing should be performed. As noted above, there are 2 most popular:

1. Manual gain. For example, it is used when cutting the edges of a wooden part.
2. Strengthening from the impact of another tool (hammer, mallet). It is sometimes required to obtain additional force in the process of gouging recesses or holes in wood.

Tools should be used with utmost precision and care. After all, it’s easy to ruin a product by over-pressing the handle or, conversely, without pressing too hard. One unsuccessful knock with a hammer or one awkward movement - and all the work will be in vain, you will have to start all over again.

The carving technique used by the master depends on the direction in which the chisel is positioned in relation to the surface. Let's look at each in more detail.

1. Trimming - the master performs work along the grain. If necessary quick disposal from uneven edges wooden blank use a chisel. The tool is directed with the unsharpened surface of the blade upward. Control is performed with both hands. When cutting, place one hand on the handle, and hold the tool blade with the other so that the direction thumb went towards the handle. This position of the hands creates precise control over the movements of the tool and makes it possible to apply more force. There is a secret here: in order to obtain a perfectly flat and smooth surface as a result, when cutting wood along the grain, the device is turned slightly, and the flat edge should always set the direction of the master’s actions.
2. Carving on the sides. A variety is considered to be a selection of grooves. To obtain a groove in the shape of a rectangle, they resort to the help of flat devices. In the latter, the direct working element has a transverse flat section. The cutting edge is sharpened and can be either straight or oblique. In most cases, the chisel has a sharpened edge on only one side. This means that according to the rules, the sharpened blade of the instrument resembles a razor blade. To make grooves in a circle, semicircular devices are used. Their working element has a cross section like half or a quarter of a circle. It is correct to work with a chisel in a transverse direction to the wood fibers. Hold the tool in the same position as when cutting. The cutting edge should be located at a certain angle to the surface. This is done several times. Then, using the cuts, the entire groove is selected. Such manipulations are repeated repeatedly, slowly moving in depth to the required level.
3. Trimming the ends (carving perpendicularly) requires a different position of the hands on the tool. One hand covers the handle, and the chisel blade is clamped between the index and thumb second hand. This ensures control over the progress of the device and the accuracy of each movement. The part of the blade located closer to the master serves as a guide. The ends of the wooden workpiece are trimmed from the far corner. The tool is directed forward and downward. When you press down on the blade with your thumb and lower the chisel down by the handle, you get a fairly smooth cut. Such manipulations require great effort. Thin sections of wood are made once.

At manual work You don’t need to remove a lot of material at once using a chisel. Excess wood is cleared gradually along the intended line.

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When you can't do without a hammer

For the purpose of gouging and chopping, both chisels and mallets are used at the same time. For both procedures, the mallet is held in one hand and the chisel is positioned perpendicularly in the other hand. When you hit the chisel with a hammer, it rotates simultaneously. Thus ensuring that the end of the tool is always in the right place.

They produce special devices that are intended specifically for chiselling, their name is chisels. Manufacturing companies that have similar products are MATRIX and KIRSCHEN. The handles of such devices necessarily have shockproof properties and high strength, because they will often take a heavy load.

Unlike the gouging procedure, you may encounter some difficulties during the cutting process. With a chisel it is possible to cut out, for example, recesses under door hinges. Any modern door Between the layers of wood there is a layer of hardboard or MDF. Due to this, warping (change in shape) is avoided. But if the wood is not dried enough, even this measure will not save.

The loops will have to be slightly seated. To set the seating depth of the loops, the material is cut along the direction of the fibers by hitting the chisel with a hammer. Each specialist chooses the direction for cutting independently, focusing on personal convenience, from himself or to himself. The chisel is held as carefully and precisely as possible, so as not to spoil the material and not to injure yourself.

When they come closer to the marking, they try to make the chisel spring back after knocking. Why are hammer blows performed with a drawbar? When selecting wood at the edges of the markings, do not use a mallet; they work manually, adding a little more effort to remove excess material.

Important: when the wood has flaws (knotiness, curling - random arrangement of fibers), not very deep notches are made in such defective places.

This article is devoted to a process that is relevant for any carver - sharpening. cutting tool. In the previous article I talked about sharpening flat chisels, and here we’ll look at how to properly sharpen semicircular chisels.

The only difficulty in sharpening semicircular chisels or special ones is their shape. This disadvantage can be corrected by doing wooden blocks, the edge of which we plan to the shape of our chisel. Any tree will do; you can protect it from moisture by wrapping it with tape. Ideally, each shaped chisel needs its own individual block, so as not to get confused, you can mark it with numbers.

For the lesson we will need:

• Double-sided silicon oxide block.
• Plywood
• Shaped block
• Abrasive powder
• Sandpaper with abrasive grade R-400, R-800, R-1000, R-2000, I use sandpaper from auto stores.
• Soap solution
• Paste GOI

So, let's begin. We wet our block soap solution, let it soak and start sharpening. We press the chamfer to the abrasive and begin to make movements as shown in the figure.

How a burr is formed, we turn our chisel over, and take a shaped block, cut for it sandpaper, you can glue it, or you can simply press it with your hand. I note that the lower the gradation number of the abrasive, the coarser it is: That is, R-400 will be coarser than R-800, etc. I think that a separate article will be devoted to abrasives.

By changing the abrasive, starting from coarse to fine and not forgetting about polishing and straightening the chisel at the end, we achieve it razor sharp. Checking the cleanliness of the cut.

Our lesson has come to an end. I wish you creative success and always sharp chisels.