Introductory part.
Making trees and bushes for dioramas, vignettes and just work stands. This is just one line of text, but how many questions are hidden inside. Especially if the professional experience of the old layout designer is completely absent. But good and often realistic work in terms of making techniques and figures requires realistic vegetation. Moreover, if you need to do something on a small scale.
So it happened in my case when making one small but rather laborious work using a reduced copy of a natural natural landscape as a basis.
The idea to do something relatively large-scale in terms of the plot, but small in real size and always with a textured look of nature has been thought for a long time. Probably, the ineradicable craving of the city dweller for the living corners of nature, which, unfortunately, we mainly see only on the TV screen or computer monitor, has affected.
As a result, I settled on a scale of 1:72. Impressed by the films "Stormy Gates" and "Spetsnaz" I decided to do a work on the topic of special operations of the federal forces in the North Caucasus in the so-called "green". And then the questions arose, but how to actually make the vegetation realistic, the very "green", on the 72nd scale? And the two main ones are: what kind of trees need to be made and, most importantly, HOW?
The first question was solved quite simply. A search on the Internet gave a lot of useful information on the flora of the Caucasus in general and the North Caucasus in particular (including the Chechen Republic). Let me briefly note that the information itself was very interesting in terms of general development. What, after all, in one relatively small region there is a species diversity of flora and landscapes formed by it! But back to the topic of the article.
So, the idea has been chosen, information about the flora has been found here…. The main question arises in full growth. How do you actually make trees on a 72nd scale? He immediately abandoned the idea of using ready-made vegetation from recognized modeling firms, as he wanted to do everything with his own hands. I turned again to model literature and the Internet. Having studied the material found (including thanks for the help to Andrey Yanchik for the provided scans of Valery Serdyuk's articles) and the available materials at hand, he began his own experiments with the manufacture of deciduous trees. The ideas of renowned modellers using wire are certainly good, but I really did not like my results with this material. Therefore, I decided to use the existing workpieces of natural origin with the addition of real building materials, some model special equipment and other materials at hand. In principle, all materials used are available to every modeler, wherever he lives. Even branded special equipment can be replaced with publicly available counterparts.
Making birch
To make a model of a birch on a 72nd scale, you will need the following:
1) tools: a hand-held collet mini-drill (photo 1), a stationery or model knife (photo 2), a plasticine spatula and a simple flat brush with stiff bristles.
2) materials: grout for tiles (photo 3), masking tape (photo 4), quick-drying glue (photo 5), dry moss (photo 6), a piece of a natural birch branch of a suitable shape (photo 7), powder imitating foliage ( photo 8), model acrylic paints - black and white (photo 9), paint of green-marsh shade (photo 10), matte artistic varnish of strong fixation to protect the surface of paintings (photo 11).
Instead of proprietary model powder, you can use available similar materials. For example, finely chopped dyed paper or dyed ground tea leaves. But it was Noch's proprietary foliage powder that I liked more. Instead of matte art varnish, you can use PVA type glue, but which does not form a shiny film.
So, the tools and materials are selected. Let's start making a model of a tree. The process itself can be roughly divided into three parts.
Part 1. Let's start by making the barrel.
At the selected piece of a twig of a real birch, we sharpen the upper tips (photo 12). After that, with a pre-prepared narrow tape made of paper masking tape, carefully wrap the barrel blank in several layers, starting from the bottom (photo 13). Masking tape will serve as the basis for grouting. Do not forget to make the base of the tree model thicker, with a butt. But be sure to leave a thin petiole about 1 cm long, which will be recessed into the base of your work in order to firmly fix the model of the tree itself on it (photo 14).
Now we are preparing a grout to simulate the bark of the future birch. In addition, the grout allows you to hide tape marks from the masking tape. It is desirable that the grout is finely ground and free of lumps. We dilute the grout in a small container (in my case, a film can) with white paint (photo 15). Stir to a creamy consistency and coat the birch trunk with a spatula or brush with stiff bristles (photo 16). There should be no lumps in the mixed grout. Otherwise, their presence will affect lumpy defects on the trunk of the birch model. Let the workpiece dry in a state suspended by the butt. After the grout has dried, we get a white birch trunk (photo 17).
The next step is to apply black stripes and dots on the workpiece with a thin brush with black paint, as on a real birch. The future base of the trunk at the butt should be carefully painted in places with diluted marsh-green paint. Since in reality birch trees grow overgrown with small moss at the roots. The barrel blank is ready (photo 18).
Part 2... Now let's move on to making branches for our trunk.
For the manufacture of branches, we use small bushy branches of moss as a base (photo 19). We paint the moss branches with black paint (photo 20). After the paint has dried, coat the fluffy part of the moss sprig with the above varnish or PVA glue and sprinkle it with pinches of prepared imitation foliage (photo 21 and photo 22). At the exit, a harvesting of a birch branch is obtained (photo 23). We repeat the described procedure as many times as there are branches (photo 24).
Part 3... We collect the blank of the trunk and blanks of the branches into a single structure.
We carry out the assembly from the bottom up. First, we drill shallow holes in the trunk blank for future branches. But not strictly perpendicular to the trunk, but slightly from top to bottom in relation to the butt. An exception is the holes for securing the uppermost branches at the end of the trunk. They are drilled strictly into the tip of the barrel blank. Then we begin to glue the blanks of the branches onto a drop of quickly drying glue into the prepared holes (photo 25). We glue the branch, let the glue dry (1-2 minutes), holding the branch in the desired direction. And so we repeat until the last branches form the final upper branches of the birch layout.
As a result, we get a model of a birch on a 72nd scale (photo 26). A submachine gunner figurine on a 72nd scale was added to demonstrate the ratio of the size of a birch model to a figurine on a 72nd scale.
In principle, the considered method is suitable, with a slight change in technology, both for making models of other deciduous trees on a 72nd scale, and for making models of birch or other deciduous trees on a 35th scale.
Making a deciduous tree (method 2).
To make a model of a deciduous tree (undefined species) on a 72nd scale, you will need the following:
1) tools: a hand model file (photo 27), but you can also use a stationery or model knife (photo 2).
2) materials: a means for fixing imitation sheets, in my case a strong fixation hairspray was used (photo 28), but it is better to use the proprietary model composition of the Noch company to fix the vegetation on the models or similar model special means, or, as an option, stationery glue such as PVA in aerosol can (since hairspray is sensitive to moisture); peeled PVA stationery glue (photo 29); a dried, shaped lump of moss (Photo 30); a piece of a branch of a natural tree of a suitable shape and a suitable look (photo 31); powder imitating foliage, similar in size to that shown in photo 8; brown gouache paint.
So, we directly start making wood.
Saw off or cut off from a previously prepared suitable branch of a real tree the part of a suitable size and shape that is necessary in texture. It is better to select a part with small tubercles or remnants of branch-branches, or make a trunk blank from a branch with a fork at the upper end of the future trunk.
Then we start making the crown of our tree model. Soak the formed lump of moss of the required size in a container with diluted brown gouache. Let the gouache soak into the moss. We take out a lump, squeeze it out of moisture, forming it tighter, but without busting. Let it dry. After that, first, pour PVA glue into the center of the lump and carefully insert the blank of the trunk into the lump of moss (photo 32) or wrap the moss around the trunk (if the trunk is in the form of a flyer). We carefully wrap everything in a paper tube, secure the tube from deployment, and let the PVA dry. As a result, we get the following (photo 33).
There is a rough draft of a tree layout with a crown. Now you need to fix the imitation of leaves in the resulting crown. To do this, from an aerosol can, fill only the crown with the above-mentioned varnish, or special model glue, or aerosol stationery glue. We fill it so that the moss is completely saturated and even more - the fixing compound should protrude on the moss in excess. And we begin to sprinkle everything with imitation of foliage, with the expectation that the powder gets into all the cracks in the future crown. It is better to sprinkle over a cardboard box or other wide flat container with small sides. The powder needs not to be saved, all the same, all the excess will then fly off by itself and serve for reuse.
We hang the tree sprinkled with imitation of leaves on a clothespin with the crown down and let it dry. After drying, we get our model of a deciduous tree with a spherical crown (photo 34). The trees in Photo 35, Photo 36 and Photo 37 were made in a similar way. A 72nd scale submachine gunner figurine has also been added to the photo to visually display the size of the tree layout.
For a more reliable image of the tree, already on the basis of the model, we first make a hole 0.5-1 cm deep to fix the tree. We glue the model of the tree. Then, from very thin natural twigs, we make several segments about 0.5 cm long. We cut the ends at an acute angle. We glue one end face-to-face without a gap on quick-drying glue to the tree model fixed to the base at the junction of the trunk and the base. Cover the second end of the segment with a bark scale carefully removed from a similar thin branch. Then, if desired, add an imitation of grassy vegetation around the trunk and around the protruding roots. The output is a very reliable model of a tree with roots protruding from the ground (photo 38 and photo 39).
A complete set of all four trees at the finished work can be seen in my work "", also exhibited at DiShow2009.
We make a deciduous tree with an umbrella crown.
Nature is magnificent in its diversity. The methods described above are suitable for the production of only part of the species diversity of trees. Therefore, for the manufacture of a deciduous tree with an umbrella crown, the following method is proposed, which will require the following:
1) Tools: a simple flat brush with stiff bristles and a flat brush with soft bristles.
2) materials: a means for fixing imitation sheets, in my case, artistic varnish was used (photo 11), but you can also use peeled stationery PVA glue (photo 29), acrylic paint in a green shade that matches the color with imitation foliage; dry inflorescence of an umbrella-shaped decorative garden flower (photo 40); a foliage powder similar to that shown in photo 8, but in a suitable shade of color.
And again we start making wood.
First, paint with a soft-bristled brush in the desired shade of green box-inflorescence in the upper part of the dried flower (photo 41). In my case, Tamiya acrylic green paint was used. Let it dry.
Now, with a brush with stiff bristles, apply an adhesive fixing composition to the painted inflorescence boxes, so that there is an excess of it (photo 42) and sprinkle the smeared places with imitation foliage. Let it dry again, securing everything in the same clothespin. The output is a good imitation of a tree with an umbrella crown (photo 43 and photo 43). Again, a 72nd scale submachine gunner figurine has been added to show the actual size of the tree layout.
Various methods of making trees and bushes (without much detail).
Sometimes you need to make a lot of trees, but not necessarily as detailed as in the methods described above. Or you will be limited in the choice and availability of the above natural materials. For example, moss. Therefore, I will briefly describe four more methods for making trees and one method for making bushes.
The first way to quickly make a tree layout.
According to the already classic scheme, which has been described more than once both in the literature and by fellow modellers, we make a model of a tree with a crown from small pieces of foam rubber, painted in the desired color of foliage. But I personally didn't like the foam foliage very much. Therefore, I used the foam crown only as a basis for attaching the imitation of Noch foliage to PVA glue (photo 29). The result is a tree like this (photo 45).
The second way to quickly make a tree layout.
This method allows you to make a fairly similar layout of the poplar, which will be especially important for dioramas and vignettes with a southern flavor.
To do this, we will prepare and dry in advance a twig of a thuja, cypress or other similar coniferous real tree or shrub. Leave with a brown natural color that part of the branch that will be the open part of the trunk of our poplar mockup. The other part of the branch, which should become a crown, is filled with a fixing compound from an aerosol can using the technology already described above. Sprinkle the flooded areas with imitation foliage. In my case, all the same material from Noch. As a result, we get such a model of a poplar (photo 46).
The third way to quickly make a tree layout.
This method allows you to make a simple model of a tree with a spherical crown. Not the most successful in appearance, but for novice modelers, for large urban dioramas or in the absence of suitable materials, this method can also be applied as an ersatz replacement for a realistic tree layout.
For the trunk, select a piece of a branch of a natural tree (preferably with at least a flyer in the place where the crown is formed). In the upper part of the future trunk, we form a fluffy, but not transparent, spherical crown from a lump of medical cotton wool. We pre-fix the cotton wool with quick-drying glue to the upper part of the future trunk. Gently coat a ball of cotton wool with PVA glue with a flat brush with stiff bristles. The cotton ball will eventually shrink. But it will be covered with a thin film of PVA glue. We dry the workpiece on a clothespin with the future crown down. After the PVA has dried, we paint the surface with model paint with good adhesion in the desired shade of color, taking into account the color of the future imitation of foliage. Let the paint dry. We coat the resulting ball-crown with a thin layer of purified stationery PVA, pre-mixed with paint of the same color as the crown was painted. Then we sprinkle the crown of our layout with imitation of foliage. In my case, it was all the same material from Noch. The result is a model of a tree with a spherical crown (photo 47).
The fourth way to quickly make a tree layout.
Also not the most successful in appearance, but again by novice modelers, for large urban dioramas or in the absence of suitable materials as an ersatz replacement for a tree model, this method can also be used to make a model of a tree with a horizontal crown or a tall shrub.
You will need a sprig of a coniferous tree with small needles, a little cotton wool, PVA glue and powder to simulate foliage. To begin with, we cut off the sharp tips of the needles on a branch and clean the place of the future open part of the trunk of our model from the needles. We gently wrap a small amount of cotton on a twig at the place of formation of the future crown and fix the cotton on the PVA. Let the PVA dry. After the PVA has dried, paint the crown of cotton wool through an airbrush.
After the paint has dried, literally fill the crown of the model tree from an aerosol can with a fixing compound to fix the imitation of foliage and immediately sprinkle it with imitation of foliage. Let it dry again. As a result, we get such a model of a tree or a tall shrub (photo 48).
Making a bush.
To make a bush, you can use either dried northern lichen lichen (sold in model stores), or dried roots of small plants. In my example, it was reindeer lichen that was used. If necessary, paint the blank of the future bush in the desired shade of brown or woody color. For example, an airbrush. Let the paint dry.
Then we fill the blank of the bush with a fixing compound from an aerosol can to fix the imitation of foliage and immediately sprinkle it with imitation of foliage. Let it dry again. As a result, this is the layout of the bush (photo 49).
Small bonus
As a small bonus to the main article on making trees and bushes on a 72nd scale, I will additionally describe my technologies for making a waterfall and rocks on a 72nd scale, which were tested and implemented by me all in the same work ""
Do-it-yourself rocks on a small scale.
At the present time, thanks to the layout workers, railway workers are actively using the technology of casting rocks from gypsum into a finished form. There is no doubt that the technology is convenient, but it has its own specific disadvantages. First, all rocks from the same shape come out like twin brothers. Secondly, large rocks have a fair amount of weight due to the significant amount of gypsum used.
In principle, my version of making rocks in the end turned out to be quite simple to manufacture, although it took time and several attempts to work with different materials to develop it.
When I had a question in choosing a material for making a rock base, first of all, the material for making the base part of the rock was thought out. As a result, the choice settled on the foam ceiling panels. They are made of small-sized expanded polystyrene and allow making a base of any height using the type of sandwich panels. However, the foam is not at all textured material for the image of the finished rock. Therefore, for reworking, you will need the same universal grout for tiles (finely ground cement can be used) and a building putty of the Rotband type.
Thus, for the manufacture of a rock in terms of the necessary materials, only five components are needed:
- 1.Small blown foam that will not crumble into balls;
- 2. grout for tiles or mortar such as cement (fine grinding);
- 3. building putty of "Rotband" type;
- 4.plywood 3-5 mm;
- 5. Lots of gray or dark gray art or model paint. :)
First, a cube-shaped blank for making the base of the rock is glued from the foam with PVA glue according to the model of sandwich panels. Let the glue dry. If you wish, you can use a ready-made cube of monolithic foam with similar characteristics (finely swollen and does not crumble with balls). For greater rigidity, glue plywood cut along the contour of the base of the rock to the lower edge of the rock blank.
After that, a rock with a basic rough relief is cut out of the resulting blank. In my case, a bed of a stream and a waterfall was additionally cut out in the workpiece.
So, the basic cut of the rock is ready. But it requires bringing to a realistic texture of the rock. Therefore, the workpiece must be coated with a layer of 1-2 mm (but without peeking out the foam) with grout or cement. Dilute grout or cement with a mixture of water and gray or dark gray model or art paint. Let the foam dry grout dry. We get a foam base in a solid stone shell.
But even now the base does not look very realistic like a rock. Therefore, we put putty in one or several layers. Allow to dry between coats. If necessary, we build up individual areas by reinforcing the base with toothpicks or bamboo sticks for barbecue. In general, such an operation resembles the construction of houses from monolithic concrete.
We dilute the putty before use in the same way as for diluting the grout. On a semi-wet putty of the last layer, we form large folds and cracks with a spatula. After the last layer of putty has dried, carefully form rocks on the workpiece with a sharp tool (for example, a clerical or model knife), thin cracks, small chips and other characteristic features of the appearance of real rocks. We get an empty rock in the desired scale (photo 50). But a rock without vegetation looks unnatural.
Therefore, we add vegetation (trees and bushes), imitate small grassy vegetation with small pieces of moss, special powders or finely ground colored foam rubber glued to a thin layer of PVA (photo 51 and photo 52). Selected areas of the rock are tinted with a brush with grated pastel crayons of the desired shade. When refining the base, it is better to use photographs of real rocks with vegetation for a visual reference.
Note: if you make rocks with water (river, stream, waterfall), then you first need to make water, and then just add vegetation.
Waterfall.
I turn to the description of my technology for the manufacture of water bodies on the 72nd scale. In my case, this is a stream with a waterfall. The base of the rock with the bed of the stream and the waterfall had already been made during the making of the rock, only water had to be made. You can, of course, use ready-made model mixtures, simulating water or transparent epoxy. But the question is how to apply them evenly on vertical surfaces. The law of gravity has not been canceled yet.
For me, the experience of repairing an apartment turned out to be very useful, when all the subtleties of working with construction plumbing transparent silicone were studied in practice and more than once. Therefore, I turned to the use of a material that I have known for a long time. First, I prepared a bed of a stream with a waterfall, painting the bed with a brush with a bright blue Tamiyev acrylic paint. Then he glued pebbles on the bed of the stream and the ledges of the waterfall with cyacrine to imitate boulders and teeth.
Then he gently squeezed transparent sanitary silicone out of the tube using a construction pistol. Especially neat where the jets of the waterfall were formed. I made the rollers in strictly vertical rows. In two layers. The second layer is in the intervals between the rollers of the first layer.
The upper part of the stream and the stream of the waterfall was leveled with an artistic spatula, periodically rubbed with slightly damp soap. In this way, we avoid sticking the silicone to the spatula. Again, the silicone is smoothed out with extremely light movements from top to bottom. The creek below was first leveled and tamped a little with a finger wrapped in a plastic disposable bag, also slightly rubbed with damp soap. Then with a spatula without soap, he formed waves in the backwater and, quite carefully, breakers in general on the waterfall.
After hardening of the silicone, the entire surface of the "water" was painted with a brush with an artistic transparent semi-gloss varnish (varnish for covering paintings to protect the paint). The varnish is needed for the adhesion of the white acrylic paint to appear. For without such a primer, acrylic does not fit on silicone in any way. I added a little Star's blue acrylic to the varnish. As a result, I got a gleaming surface of "water" with an additional transparent pale blue tint in addition to the highlighting effect from the bottom painted with bright blue paint. After the varnish had dried to form foam, I applied white artistic acrylic in a gel-like consistency with a brush in the right places with point touches or light stains. A light foam film was imitated by a light glaze with a brush using white acrylic paint "Stars". Then he added vegetation to the banks of the stream: imitation of moss made of finely crumbled colored foam rubber glued to PVA, along the banks of the stream with a waterfall and on the teeth. At the exit I got such a waterfall (photo 53, photo 54).
In conclusion, I would like to express my gratitude to my friends-modelers who helped with their comments about the need to refine various elements of the waterfall.
Hello dear craftswomen! Today I present to you how to make layouts of trees with your own hands. I never thought that I would have to do this. The fact is that such trees were ordered to me by my dad, who is engaged in the manufacture of models of Temples and churches. I promised to promise, but I don’t know how to do it! But the promise has been made - we must keep it. I found a video and got to work. The video on which I made my trees can be viewed here - http: //yandex.ru/video/search? FilmId = 1IwlFm7AUXI & text =% D0% BC% D0% B0% D0% BA .... I decided to show you how I did them, especially since very often, either at school or in kindergarten, they are asked to do some kind of craft on this or that topic, and then my MK and the author's video will certainly help you in this matter.
Here is a tree and a few more turned out for me. To be honest, I didn't think it would be so exciting to make trees. Dad asked for two trees, I got carried away and did 4.
For work we need: fine wire, a sponge for washing dishes or ordinary foam rubber, any lid or cardboard on which we will wind our wire, pliers, which are usually used in beading, and green paint of different shades.
We wind the wire onto the cover. For one tree, about 8-10 mi in height, one coil is enough. But if you want a thicker trunk and a branch tree, then you can take more wire. Having wound the wire in this way, we cut it from one end.
We straighten.
At the bottom, we leave one and a half - two centimeters on the roots. They will further serve as a stand for our tree.
At the bottom, the roots were straightened, twisting several wires into one. Next, we begin to form our crown, starting from the lower branches. To do this, we separate the clouds of 6-7 wires and twist them in a spiral to about half. Next, we divide our wires in half and twist further separately.
Then on each branch we leave one alone, and then we twist it by two. This is how it is shown in the photo.
By the same principle, we make another 3-4 lower branches.
So that the branches of the second tier do not come into contact with the branches of the lower tier, we scroll the trunk up a little more.
We make the second tier of branches, again scroll through the trunk and form the top in the same way as we did the other branches. Here's what we should get.
And this is already the skeleton of the future birch tree.
Here our tree is completely covered with PVA glue (as if covered with snow. We leave our tree to dry completely, for about 2-3 hours. As soon as our tree is completely dry, we begin to paint it. Unfortunately, I did not take a picture of the painting process, but you can see it there is nothing complicated on the video.We paint the trunk and twigs either with brown acrylic, or, if it is a birch, with light gray with black dots.
Next, we paint our future crown. For this purpose, I took a dishwashing sponge and plain white foam. I poured some water into a bowl and added some acrylic paint in different shades. I shook it in water so that the sponge was colored evenly.
I wet the sponge again and without squeezing it, I began to apply paint to the sponge with a brush: first in one shade, then in another, then in a third. It is enough to put a little paint on one side.
And then just shake it in your hand, putting on a glove or plastic on your hand. The sponge, as you can see, is colored unevenly, which is what we need. Since the sponge was yellow it gave us an extra shade of yellow. Here's what we got.
We squeeze out our sponge from excess water and put it on the battery until it dries completely.
And this shade was obtained by staining ordinary white foam rubber. As you can see, this one is more green. The first, lighter sponge went to the foliage for the birch.
dipped in a crumb. And so every branch. Then she let it dry, brushed off what had not adhered, then applied the glue to the branches again, but not with a brush, but simply dripped drop by drop from the bubble and poured in a little crumbly and again until completely dry. And so several times. This is, of course, more troublesome, so it is better to do as the author advises.
The scenery is an important part of the railroad model. They can be purchased at the store or made by hand. A big advantage of DIY crafts is realism, as well as cost savings. In addition to the trees themselves, a full-fledged landscape requires a certain amount of shrubs and grass. For their manufacture, you need to prepare the necessary material in advance. Of course, all this can be purchased in a specialized store, but if the model of the railway is large-scale, and the number of trees exceeds 100 pieces, their purchase can cost a pretty penny. Moreover, most of the goods presented in the store are distinguished by artificiality, which attracts attention at first sight. Considering all of the above, you can purchase several trees in order to subsequently compare them with products of your own manufacture and feel the difference in a specific example, for our part we will try to make your work as easy as possible by offering detailed instructions. It's just a little, start!
The railroad will go through a dense forest, so in total we need 200 - 300 trees. The layout assumes the presence of mountains, so most specimens will be conifers.
After reading the step-by-step description below, you can easily make an artificial spruce and you will find that it is very, very simple to do it. However, given that we have to create a whole forest, we need to prepare in advance for the fact that the procedure will take a lot of time.
First, we need to decide on the dimensions, using real trees as samples. Taking into account the fact that the scale is 1:87, the length of the tallest tree will be 30 cm, and the shortest 8 cm. In addition, it will be useful to make some stumps to give our forest realistic features.
Necessary materials:
- Round blanks for tree trunks, 1.5 - 0.8 - 0.5 cm thick.
- Wire nails, 3 mm thick.
- A coil of knitting wire, green or galvanized.
- Glue and brush for neat application.
- Latex paint mixed with sand and fine cork.
- Water.
- Brown acrylic paint (or a bottle of pigment to add to latex paint).
- Filter fiber material for the pool (sold in every garden center).
- Wood glue diluted with water.
- Acrylic paint.
- Spray - glue.
- Green fibers.
- Alcohol or gasoline to clean the glue from the barrel, and a cotton swab.
- Airbrush gun and compressor.
Required tools:
- A set of steel knives.
- Sandpaper.
- Ticks.
- Peripheral cutter.
- A device for applying glue.
- Scissors.
- Wood chopping tool.
- Brush.
Step 1.
First of all, blanks of rods of the required length for tree trunks are made. They can be done very easily with a steel knife, since cork is a very soft material. Then, using sandpaper, the rods are conical, and the remaining dust may come in handy later, so it must be saved.
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Step 2.
At the second stage, using Carpenter pliers, we cut the wire nails into pieces of the desired size, after which, by gentle pressing, they are inserted into the wooden blank, and glue is poured into the resulting gap.
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Step 3.
We cut the knitting wire into several lengths from 4 to 10 cm. They will serve as the basis for branches, as well as small trees and shrubs.
Step 4.
Adjust the branches so that they have the same length on all sides. We start from the lower branches, for which we take the longest 10 cm segments. A little higher, we make another row of smaller segments, etc. We also crown the crown with a piece of wire.
Step 5.
At the fifth stage, the branches are fixed with glue. Here you can use special patterns or apply super glue.
Step 6.
At this stage, we are faced with the task of producing a mixture of clay, water, paint, pigment and sawdust. Here you can also use a brown or black latex mixture mixed with sand and sawdust (left over from the production of wooden trunks in the first stage). Shake the resulting solution thoroughly with a wooden stick until thick. The most important thing is that the mixture is not liquid.
Step 7.
Using a brush, apply the resulting mixture to the trunk and branches and let it dry, if necessary, make several layers.
Step 8.
Using scissors, we make small strips of fibrous material, and then with the help of wood glue we put them on the branches and let them dry thoroughly.
Step 9.
After the workpiece is dry, we apply a dark green or brown paint to the wood using an aerosol.
Step 10.
At this stage, a layer of glue is applied to the fibers, while it is advisable to avoid getting it on the tree trunk. Considering that some of the material is more liquid, it should be carefully scattered over the entire area of the branch. After that, the tree is given a few minutes to dry, and then using a cotton swab, alcohol or gasoline, it is necessary to remove the glue and fibers from the trunk, since needles do not grow on it.
The tree can now be used as decoration. Considering that a living forest is distinguished by a richness of forms and content, it is advisable to paint the trees in different shades in order to avoid monotony.
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It is not superfluous to create small details, for example, broken branches, dead wood, so that the work looks natural.
Alternative construction.
This technique assumes that the branches are located exclusively on the top of the tree, by analogy with pine forests. To do this, several pieces of wire are attached to the trunk, which takes a little time. The branches are fixed with fast-acting glue.
Bark paste is made from latex paint with the addition of brown and black pigments, as well as sand and sawdust remaining after the production of the cone. This allows the tree to look natural, reminiscent of wildlife specimens.
The next step, as in the first case, is to attach the fibrous material and paint it green. In this case, the pine must be larger than the spruce, so that the length of the trunks will reach 25 cm.
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Trial lesson on prototyping http: //bestmaket3.ru/ochnoe-obuchenie ...
In this video, we'll show you how to make trees, bushes and flower beds for your layout. There are several options for making bushes and trees, which are mastered by the guys who are trained in the prototyping studio. The simplest, and therefore often used, is the manufacture of trees from stranded copper wire. The thickness of the wire, that is, the cross-section, is selected according to the thickness of the trunk of the trees depicted.
Further, the wire dissolves into separate branches. Then, on a suitable piece of foam, it can be a piece of plasticine fixed to something, into which we inserted the trunks of trees and bushes, we paint them brown.
It is advisable to fix the paint with a layer of varnish. Even a simple hairspray will do. Further, the branches are coated with glue. Anyone you've already worked with will do. It can be Uranus, Cosmophen, and PVA. You just need to take into account the speed of drying of this or that glue.
The foliage used for pasting trees and shrubs can be either purchased, from ready-made sets, or homemade.
For homemade, a regular sponge works well. It is painted in various tones of green shades quite chaotically and randomly.
After drying, the sponge is kneaded either with your hands, or it can be done in a blender to small pieces, but not into dust. Then the trunks of trees and shrubs, smeared with glue, are sprinkled with ready-made foliage.
If you need autumn foliage, more yellow and red tones are added to the paint. Making layouts with your own hands is an interesting and creative process. Watch our lessons, take a full video course or an intensive course and you will succeed! http://bestmaket3.ru/
Layout lessons. Making trees, bushes, flower beds -
Trees, bushes, and flower beds can be crafted in a variety of ways. We will tell you about one of them.
This option is the simplest, and therefore the most frequently used. Trees are made from stranded copper wire.
The thickness of the wire must be selected in such a way that it matches the thickness of the trunk of future trees.
The next step is to dissolve the wire into separate branches.
Next, you need to take a suitable piece of polystyrene and paint them brown (or any other, based on the task) color.
It will be good if you fix the paint with a layer of varnish, you can even use a simple hairspray.
After the paint dries, you need to coat it with glue. You can use Uranus, Cosmophen, PVA or any other. with which you have already worked. Here you need to take into account the speed of drying of this or that glue.
Foliage for pasting trees or shrubs can be bought or made by yourself.
Foliage can be made from a regular sponge on your own. To do this, you need to paint the sponge in different tones of green shades. To make the foliage look natural, you need to paint randomly and randomly. Water-based paints are used for painting.
When the paint is dry, you can knead the sponge with your hands, or even in a blender. The main thing is not to overdo it and not grind it into dust.
Now the trunks of trees and shrubs remain, coat with glue and sprinkle with made foliage.
If we want to show autumn, we paint our foliage in more red and yellow tones. If we are making a winter layout, you can glue cotton wool, as well as sprinkle with soda or semolina.
The article was prepared by the specialists of the center