Quite often, during repairs, self-leveling floor systems have been used recently, which are distinguished by their durability, wear resistance and strength. Among their positive qualities are safety and environmental friendliness. Since the creation of such coatings, there have been major technical changes. For example, they are presented in a wide range of colors, which in particular concerns. With their help, you can create real masterpieces of design.
Can wood be used as a base?
Quite often, craftsmen ask the question of whether it is possible to equip a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor. The answer is yes, however, before laying such a coating, it is necessary to analyze the rough base, and also determine whether it requires preparation. It is necessary to carry out installation work on wood only if it is well preserved, and it is recommended to use a thin-pouring mixture for arranging the finishing surface, which will be unable to increase the height significantly.
Preparatory work
Bulk can be equipped not only on the above-described type of rough base, but also on concrete. Before pouring, any surface must be prepared, the first step is to remove the baseboards and remove the fasteners from the walls. Then the master performs scraping of the surface; for this, the appropriate equipment should be used. If the room has an insignificant area, then it will be possible to cope with the help of a manual cycle. The next step is to hide the cracks using a cipher machine. Such errors in the process of operation in any case appear on the wooden floor. The resulting irregularities and cracks are treated with a putty, which, after application, is left to dry completely. The surface should then be sanded with coarse sandpaper to improve the adhesion.
A self-leveling floor on a wooden floor will last for a long time if the base is cleaned of dust after grinding. It is most effective to use for this. Before priming, the base is degreased. A primer is necessary to increase the adhesion of the material to the wood. The composition is applied in two layers; sifted quartz sand can be added to it before work is carried out. This will ensure the most reliable adhesion between the polymer coating and the base.
Instrument preparation
If you are wondering whether self-leveling floors can be applied to a wooden floor, then the answer will be unequivocal. Such works are carried out quite often today. It is important to properly prepare the surface and take care of the availability of the appropriate tools. To dismantle the skirting boards, you will need wooden wedges, a nail puller and a chisel, but for processing wood, you need to prepare a scraper and a sander. You can finally prepare the surface using coarse sandpaper; an industrial vacuum cleaner will allow you to clean the base. To apply the primer to the surface, you will need a brush or roller. Quite often, these tools are used in tandem, since not all hard-to-reach places can be processed with a roller. Use a short-haired roller and flat brush to spread most effectively. The master will need a spatula and squeegee. It will be possible to knead the solution for arranging the self-leveling floor with a construction mixer or drill. It is best to pour a self-leveling floor on a wooden base in special clothing, wearing protective goggles, a respirator and gloves. For movement on the surface, you need special soles with spikes. This will allow the craftsman to move around the freshly applied layer.
Work technology
Laying a polymer floor on a wooden floor is no different from a procedure that involves using concrete as a base. Only the preparatory stage differs, which was discussed in more detail above. Before pouring the self-leveling floor, prepare the solution using the instructions. The dry mixture should be mixed with water until a homogeneous mass is formed. The resulting solution is laid out on the base, while it is necessary to move from the far corner of the room.
The self-leveling floor is poured onto the wooden floor, then leveled with a spatula until the required layer thickness is reached. If we are talking about a wooden covering, then the thickness should be five millimeters or more. The most optimal and convenient tool for leveling and combating bubbles is a needle roller. The intervals between filling batches should not be more than 10 minutes, otherwise the joints will be clearly visible. But even at the same time, the connection of mortar strips must be carefully rolled with a roller. As soon as the pouring is completed, cover the solidified surface with a film, this must be done 15 minutes after the completion of the work. This will prevent dust from settling. After applying the base layer and hardening it, you can start applying the topcoat, which can be played by varnish or polymer.
The cost of work from specialists
A self-leveling floor on a wooden floor will hold firmly enough if you follow the instructions provided. This process can be called quite simple, and you can do it yourself. But if financial possibilities permit, it is recommended to hire a team of specialists who guarantee high quality performance, carry out installation according to technologies, and also give a guarantee for the work done. As a rule, experts use expensive construction tools. All this adds up to the cost of preparatory, priming work and manipulations for pouring the mixture. For one square meter of preparation of a wooden base, you will have to pay 400 rubles, while applying a primer costs 200 rubles. for one square meter. Experts fill the surface with quick-drying bulk compositions for 400 rubles. for one square meter.
If you want to make repairs in a residential area, then it is recommended to choose mixtures based on polymer resins. If there are places with high humidity, then an epoxy filler should be used in them, while a polyurethane floor is suitable for the rest of the house. If you are thinking about the question of whether it is possible to pour a self-leveling floor, a wooden floor can be an excellent base. If there is a plank covering, it should be repaired, the peeled floorboards should be replaced. The fasteners are tightened, the gaps are filled with sealant or the latter is mixed with an equal volume of sawdust. Waterproofing should be laid on the wooden base. Do not neglect the need to apply a primer, two layers of which will facilitate the main work and increase the strength of the coating.
Secrets of using finishing mixtures
A self-leveling floor on a wooden floor will look very good if the rough base does not have rough relief imperfections. It is advisable to exclude them, since the thickness of the layer to be laid does not exceed 5 millimeters. Even though bumps and depressions can be smoothed out by a leveling mass, there is a strong case for eliminating defects. Self-leveling floors will harden unevenly, while the strength indicator will differ.
It is also important to choose the right dry composition, the ingredients based on which will determine the purpose of the future floor. For example, if the mixture contains cement as a binder, then this composition is suitable for pouring floors in bathrooms, kitchens, showers and bathrooms. If we are talking about mixtures with gypsum in the composition, then such a floor is best used for rooms with dry and low humidity levels, where the self-leveling floor will demonstrate all its positive qualities. A wooden surface can also be used for a base in which a heating system will be present. In this case, you should choose a leveling compound that has increased elasticity. During operation, it will expand and contract without cracking.
Conclusion
Sometimes the self-leveling floor is separated from the wooden surface with oiled paper, which is covered with an overlap. In this case, the layer should be filled with a thickness of one or two centimeters. The boundary between the screed and the self-leveling floor should be formed by surface treatment with waterproofing impregnation.
The 21st century is the time that made self-leveling flooring on a wooden base so popular and in demand both in residential premises and in modern offices. Today, self-leveling floors on a wooden floor are not just a covering, but also an excellent decorative solution, especially if 3D technology is used together. Such floor coverings have many advantages and decent performance characteristics, as well as quite affordable cost. Few people know how to make a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor with their own hands, but this is not as difficult as it might seem at first. This guide will help you make a self-leveling floor for planks.
What are the types of self-leveling floors on a wooden base?
Self-leveling floor on a wooden base is not one solution, but a whole category of materials that are applied to a concrete or wooden (as in this case) base. Self-leveling floor on a wooden floor can be divided into:
- Polyurethane. A durable and resistant to long-term impact polymer floor, which is perfectly suited for arranging flooring in places with a large number of people.
- Epoxy. This is a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor that does not react in any way to the effects of moisture. It is recommended to install such floors in damp rooms, especially in the bathroom and kitchen.
- Epoxy urethane. A type of polymer floor that has good strength and wear resistance. Can be used as an alternative to polyurethane coating.
- Methyl methacrylate. A polymer floor with excellent thermal insulation properties, often used for arranging floors in rooms without heating or with poor heating in the cold season.
Do-it-yourself self-leveling floor on a wooden floor can be one-component and two-component. The first type is often used as a basis for installing parquet, stone, tiles or other decorative coverings. Two-pack flooring often contains a three-dimensional image, which gives the floor a creative and unusual appearance. Next, we will figure out whether it is possible to make a 3D floor on a wooden floor and how to do it.
The main advantages of self-leveling floors on a wooden base
A self-leveling floor on a wooden floor is a solution that has received its demand not only due to its appearance, but also because of its good technical characteristics and numerous advantages. You can find them below:
- High resistance to prolonged mechanical stress, wear and tear resistance.
- Excellent resistance to chemicals - self-leveling wood-like floor will withstand even acids.
- A wide range of available colors, styles, patterns and textures, images.
- Excellent sound and heat insulation performance - a creative self-leveling wooden floor is quiet and warm!
- High strength, reliability, long-term use of the coating, which will last for tens of years.
- The presence of antistatic properties, thanks to which the self-leveling wooden floor is quite easy to clean.
- Absolute seamlessness - this facilitates the process of floor maintenance, prevents floor squeaks.
You can see that a self-leveling floor in a wooden house is not only a modern and beautiful, but also a practical solution that can delight the inhabitants of the dwelling for many years. In addition, such a coating can be equipped on its own. We will learn how to fill a wooden floor with a self-leveling floor, what tools and building materials are needed for this.
What tools are needed to equip the floor?
Do-it-yourself self-leveling floor for wooden bases requires the use of a wide range of tools, fixtures and materials that must be prepared before starting work. You should definitely have at hand:
- A special mixture for self-leveling flooring is the basis for future flooring.
- Long spatula, needle roller (required to remove air bubbles).
- A construction mixer or a drill with a special attachment if there is no mixer.
- Laser or ordinary building level, aluminum rule.
- A minimum capacity of 20 liters, a set of building beacons and wooden blocks.
- Alabaster, mortar, water sufficient for the mixture.
- Triangular scraper, screwdriver, screws, dowels, long ruler.
Also, special clothing does not hurt - protective gloves, a mask for the eyes and face, as well as shoes designed for walking on painted surfaces (paint shoes). After preparing the required arsenal, you can begin.
We prepare the base for the polymer floor
Can self-leveling floors be poured onto wooden floors? Yes, sometimes the masters do not ask the question of whether it is possible to make a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor and apply the solution directly to the old coating. However, even with this, it is necessary to carefully prepare the base made of wood - it should be well sanded so that the surface becomes rough. This will significantly improve the adhesion of the floor to the polymer layers. It is also worth making sure that there are no traces of grease, dirt, oil and other contaminants on the wooden floor surface - they are removed with a solvent.
Is it possible to make a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor if it creaks? No - otherwise the final coverage will be uneven and cause a lot of problems. To avoid trouble, you also need to check the floor. All boards must be securely fixed in the correct position, the floor itself must be level, without irregularities and defects. Also, before applying the polymer floor, it will be necessary to remove all paint from the surface of the base, if any.
Before making self-leveling floors in a wooden house, it is necessary to carry out a small preparation of the coating:
- Remove all skirting boards and cover the holes formed after removing the skirting boards.
- Seal all cracks, chips and irregularities on the floor surface with mortar.
Now you can proceed to the actions that will eventually lead you to the completion of the self-leveling floor arrangement.
We level the surface and put beacons for the floor
To make the floor as even as possible, you need to take care of this at the initial stages. So, before pouring the solution, draw a line along the entire length of the room, and then set self-tapping screws along it, the distance between which is 30 centimeters. With the help of a laser building level, you will need to find the highest point located on the wooden base for the polymer floor. After detection, it is necessary to add about 5-6 mm (thickness of the floor layer) and align the screws at the same level. It is still too early to do 3D floors on wood floors.
The next stage, which continues the installation of a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor, is the installation of beacons. They must be placed on previously installed screws, securely fastened with mortar. After that, you should prepare a solution for a self-leveling floor - for this, the contents of the package must be stirred in a container with water in the instructions indicated on the package, and then stirred until smooth with a construction mixer.
We start pouring the solution for the self-leveling floor on the tree
We already know if it is possible to use a self-leveling floor on a wooden base. The solution prepared in advance should be carefully poured onto the prepared base, covering an area of about 2 square meters at a time. meters. The layer must be leveled along the beacons using a long spatula. When the formation of the layer is completed, it will be necessary to remove all air bubbles on the surface of the coating using a needle roller - this is a very important stage on which the further fate of the entire result depends. Wait until the floor is completely dry.
Now you know how to make a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor - video instructions on the Internet will help you see how the process looks visually, which will give you a better understanding of the technology. The equipped coating can be used as a basis for applying decorative materials, or left as an independent floor.
At first glance, the situation is not simple enough when a relatively fragile leveling layer needs to be poured onto such an unstable base. Nevertheless, there are many proven technologies that will allow you to perform installation even with your own hands.
Are you about to renovate wooden floors in your apartment and want to use a self-leveling floor? The option is not the easiest, but there are proven technologies that are easy to do even with your own hands.
Attention! !
What is the complexity of installation
If a concrete screed is used as a rough base, we can do the job without any problems, this base is very strong, stable. For a successful result, you need to prime, put up beacons. More difficult case when there is a wooden floor in the apartment. 
Boards do not constitute a single plane, they dangle with poor-quality installation. With fluctuations in humidity and temperature, the geometric dimensions change, and individual boards with different sizes, especially with a warm floor. When dry, cracks appear, they will have to be repaired, then the leveling solution will not flow into them. In the process of operation, creaks will appear, without dismantling with repeated work, it will not get rid of it.
Wood floors tend to rot. When assembling a self-leveling floor, it will be necessary to provide conditions in order to exclude debate, destruction of wooden elements. It is also impossible to overdry it - the tree loses its strength, cracks.
We will do it with our own hands, we will try to get by with the most accessible tools.
Tool list:
- Shoovert;
- Drill with mixer attachment;
- Level;
- Electric planer;
- Roulette;
- Scissors.
- Spatulas wide
- Spatula narrow
- Tanks for clean water
- Solution container
- Needle roller
Preparatory work
We strengthen and level the old wooden floor.
What defects do wood floors in the apartment have?
- Boards of different thickness
- Boards made by "screw"
- Wooden structural elements that have dried up or laid with a large gap;
- The presence of a squeak
- Rotten floorboards, beams
- Old flaking paint
- Deviation from the level
We examine the wooden floor. At least one defect present? Let's start fixing it. Defects occur in most cases, the only exception is new, laid in accordance with all the rules, wooden floors.
Checking the level of the wood flooring. If the plane does not match the level, you will have to completely open the floors and level or even change the logs. It would be nice to open a small part, even if the level is within the normal range, to check the integrity of the lag, but this applies more to old designs. 
Suppose we found a bias. Then it is easier to disassemble completely wooden floors and reassemble. We start the installation from the extreme logs located at opposite ends of the room. We install them evenly, according to the level, and then pull the cord between them. We install intermediate logs along the cord. We process those that are above the cord with a plane, and under those that are below, we put pieces of plywood or other suitable material. Is there high humidity in the apartment? It is necessary to process the material with antiseptic agents.
When the logs are laid in one plane and fixed, we begin to check the thickness of the boards. It happens that the prepads between the floorboards are 5 mm or more, then it is necessary to correct the situation, despite the fact that we will fill in the leveling mixture on top. Here is the same thing, we remove the required thickness from the thick floorboards with an electric plane, and under the thin ones we use lining.
A more complex defect in the form of planks that are twisted with a "screw". Wedges with a plane will not help. The floorboard "screw" rests on the beams with only one edge, if you cut off the protruding edge, the second edge dangles in the air, and this is not reliable. There are two options here - to change the whole floorboard or try to straighten it by pulling it in. It is not possible to tighten with ordinary screws, the slots break off or the bit is damaged, but the effort is not enough.
In this case, a long (at least 100mm) hex head screw can help. To attract with such a screw, make a hole in the board, in the place where it protrudes upward, do not drill closer than 2 centimeters from the edge. The hole needs to be slightly larger than the thickness of the screw. We turn the screw until the edge of the floorboard is level with the plane of the adjacent boards. Then we fix the pulled place with at least four wood screws, turn out a large screw.
Another common defect is large gaps. If we were preparing the floor for laying laminate, the gaps would not be so critical, a couple of layers of plywood would save the day. But we need to fill in the liquid solution of the self-leveling floor on the wooden floor in the apartment, and it will surely leak into the cracks. You can remove large gaps with store putties on wood, only if you go to the store, then choose acrylics for seams and sealing cracks, there are also finishing ones, they will not suit us. You can make such a putty yourself by mixing PVA glue with small sawdust.
If the wooden floor in the apartment is painted with paint and it begins to flake off, you will have to rip it off. During operation, it can come off together with the self-leveling floor layer. I will not paint about rotten floorboards and creaks. We change the necessary elements and strengthen them.
Preparing for pouring
We got a relatively flat and solid surface. We treat it with an antiseptic for interior work. We cover with a primer in two or more layers, as the wood is highly absorbent. Before priming, we clean everything from dust and sawdust. Deep penetration primer. 
A deformation damper is required between the screed and the wall. O is needed to protect against temperature deformations, especially if a warm floor is planned. It won't break the walls, but the cracks on the surface will go. As such a layer, either a special self-adhesive tape is used, and strips cut from isolon. We attach them vertically along the entire perimeter of the room.
Fill
You may have already chosen, for example, plaster, polyurethane or cement. But I would recommend using the special composition Vetonit 4310 from Weber. It is designed specifically for difficult substrates, including deformable ones, like a wooden floor, although it has a cement base. You can use it as an independent base layer, a thickness of up to 60 mm is allowed, as well as an intermediate layer between a tree and another type of self-leveling mortar. 
It's time to pour the self-leveling floor onto the wooden floor, this process is done together. One person kneads the composition, and the other pours it out, leveling with a wide spatula. For large areas, you must first make beacons from screwed-in self-tapping screws or spider beacons. After leveling, it is necessary to remove air from the layer; for this purpose, a needle roller is used. You need to have time to do everything in no longer than 20 minutes, then it will begin to grasp.
The topcoat is laid in 1-3 weeks. To speed up drying, drafts in the apartment cannot be arranged, this will lead to uneven drying, the appearance of shrinkage cracks. A meter-by-meter vapor barrier is required to check final dryness. Lay the film on a screed, the formation of condensation under the film means that the drying process is not over.
If you need heated
Underfloor heating has become popular now and in private houses and apartments. Heating systems are divided into water and electric. In the case of a tree, it is better to choose an electric one, you can also make a water one, but you need to be sure that the floors will withstand a high load. For the water version, a screed with a thickness of at least 50 mm is usually needed, and this is already a lot of weight. The pipe has a height of 16mm, a solution of 30mm is poured above the pipe, for even heat distribution. 
In this case, a prefabricated lightweight system with aluminum plates or a multilayer underfloor heating system made of gypsum plasterboard sheets is more suitable, you can read more about this technology here. But this is a slightly different topic.
It means that it is still better to use the electric option. The technology is not much different from laying on a concrete screed. You already know how to make a base layer on a wooden floor, then a roll of foil insulation with reflective properties is laid on it. After it, we mount the reinforcing mesh, and already roll out the heating elements on top and fill them with a self-leveling leveler, the DSP is also suitable, it is cheaper.
Nobody canceled the intervals for curing, when installing a heated floor - we wait 3 weeks. It is necessary to turn on the heating no earlier than a week after installation. Tiles are suitable as a topcoat. Laminate can be installed with a backing.
Video
Advantages of self-leveling coating
Self-leveling floor is a technologically advanced way of repairing old apartments. Allows you to get a flat surface in a short time. Eco-friendly, wear-resistant. Easy to make with your own hands. Ductile, crack-resistant on difficult wooden substrates.
All photos from the article
In what cases should you prefer a self-leveling floor on a wooden base? How to properly prepare a boardwalk for it? How to knead and pour the mixture? Finally, what can replace the solution we are discussing? Let's try to figure it out.
It is believed that self-leveling mixtures are only suitable for concrete substrates. Whether this is so - we have to find out.
Why is it needed
In some rooms with high levels of humidity, tiles have traditionally been the typical flooring. It is mechanically strong, can be easily cleaned of any contamination, has an almost unlimited service life and is just as unlimited water resistance.
A tiled floor is a great solution for a kitchen.
However, laying tiles on a plank base is, to put it mildly, problematic:
- Deformation of the boards will inevitably lead to the tiles coming off the adhesive layer.
- Under significant loads, the bending of the boards can cause the tiles to split.
Obviously, a stable base that is not prone to deformation is needed under the tiles. A reinforced screed begs for this role; however, the load created by it with a thickness of at least 5 centimeters is already about 150 kg / m2, which is excessive for wooden logs and boards.
In addition: the screed under the tiles must be aligned with the beacons.
This is a rather lengthy and laborious process.
But a relatively thin and durable self-leveling floor in a wooden house is quite capable of solving our problem: with a thickness of 0.5 - 3 centimeters, it will create a very moderate load on the plank floor and at the same time prevent its deflection under load (of course, taking into account the distribution loads on the tiles laid on top).
Restrictions
They flow directly from the structure of the pie we are creating.
- The lags should not bend. Rot and dust is strictly prohibited.
- The thickness of the floor boards must completely exclude deformation in the entire range of design loads. Yes, the self-leveling floor layer has a fairly significant rigidity; however, its own weight cannot be written off either.
- The boards should fit tightly together. The gaps between the floorboards are sealed as tightly as possible with wood putty. In case of serious defects, the floor is simply reshaped and the floorboards are adjusted.
Please note: strictly speaking, it would be more correct to remove the section of the wooden flooring together with the logs, build the formwork around the perimeter and pour a regular reinforced screed under the tiles.
The design we are discussing will be a compromise between strength and durability on the one hand and minimal investment of time and money on the other.
Technology
Material selection
What should be a self-leveling floor for wooden bases? In the store, you need to look for a polymer concrete mixture, the description of which mentions the possibility of pouring not only on concrete or cement screed, but also on more complex surfaces.
Let's take a look at a couple of the compositions from this category.
| Name | List of compatible bases | Price |
| GLIMS-S-Base | Any surface free of debris | 438 rub / 20 kg |
| Knauf Tribon | Cement-sand surfaces, kraft paper, wood | 224 rub / 20 kg |
The approximate consumption of the dry mix is 16 - 18 kg / 1 m2 with a layer thickness of 10 millimeters.
Floor preparation
We have already mentioned some of the stages: the logs and flooring need to be strengthened, if necessary, rebuild in whole or in part.
How to close up individual cracks?
- The largest holes between the floorboards are filled with wooden wedge-shaped inserts.
- Minor defects in the base are repaired with acrylic putty for wood, a homemade putty mixture of sawdust and PVA glue, or ... an ordinary sand-cement mixture.
In addition, two more critical preparation steps are required:
- For better adhesion, you need to remove the paintwork from the boards... This can be done by scraping (after all the nails have been sunk in with the finishing tool) or with an ordinary spatula - after preliminary application of the remover or heating the paint with a construction hairdryer.
Attention: in any case, work is carried out with open windows or in a respirator.
It is equally harmful to breathe in small sawdust, wash-off or heated paint fumes.
- The cleaned boards are treated with antiseptic primer at least twice... For obvious reasons, we are not interested in decaying wood under a massive slab of bulk mix and tiles.
Fill
So how do you properly pour a self-leveling floor onto a wooden floor?
Like that:
- Using a water or laser level, we determine the highest point of the flooring.
- We put any beacon there, marking the minimum required thickness of the coating. It is different for each compound; as a rule, manufacturers recommend a minimum thickness in the range of 6 to 10 mm.
- Mix the dry mixture with water using a construction mixer or an appropriate drill / hammer attachment. The manufacturer's instructions for the ratio of water and mixture must be strictly followed. In case of deviations, we will receive either a drop in strength or adhesion to a uniform distribution over the surface of the base.
- The composition is spread over the floor surface and rolled with a needle roller. This operation will speed up the spreading and help get rid of air bubbles. The floor level, as you might guess, should align with the pre-installed beacon.
Further work continues after the coating has hardened for the time specified by the manufacturer.
Alternatives
Are there any alternatives to the described solution?
Yes, and most of them are much cheaper to implement. Here are a couple of examples.
Plywood and linoleum
If the main purpose of laying tiles on a self-leveling floor is to organize high-quality waterproofing in the kitchen, you should think about replacing this structure with linoleum, laid on a base previously leveled with plywood. The durability of the coating will be slightly lower; on the other hand, we will significantly reduce costs and reduce the repair time: we do not have to wait for the self-leveling compound and tile adhesive to set.
DSP for wood
Another "lazy" way of laying tiles on a wooden base, the author realized with his own hands.
It consists in installation over the flooring of cement - particle board 24 mm thick.
- DSPs are cut to fit the size of the room. Expansion joints are not needed: the material practically does not change its linear dimensions with fluctuations in humidity and temperature.
- Holes for self-tapping screws are drilled and countersinked in the plates.
- Polyurethane foam is pointwise applied to the base, free from debris. It will act as an adhesive and prevent the slightest.
- DSP is screwed on with self-tapping screws and primed under tile adhesive.
Conclusion
We sincerely hope that a few of the solutions we have provided will make it easier for the reader to solve numerous repair problems. The video in this article will offer him additional thematic information. Good luck!
Nowadays, in repair work, mixtures prepared at the factory are increasingly used, which allow you to quickly and efficiently level floor coverings of any type. A self-leveling floor on a wooden base is one of the most popular flooring methods.
The main advantages are durability, wear resistance, strength and ease of installation. In addition, materials are available in a wide range, there are even options with a 3D image.
What to look for when choosing a material
The first step is to carefully examine the packaging. All manufacturers indicate what exactly this or that composition is suitable for. To make a self-leveling floor in a wooden house, you need to choose materials with appropriate marks; universal compositions are also suitable. But if it is indicated on the package that the solution is suitable for concrete or anhydrite screeds, then it cannot be used for wood.
When choosing a composition, you should pay attention to the purpose - only universal or special mixtures are suitable for a wooden base It is important to remember that self-leveling wood floors are poured with a layer of 3 to 7 centimeters, so it is not advisable to buy expensive gypsum mixtures, which are designed for a layer of about 0.2–2.5 cm. The use of cement or gypsum-cement mortars is recommended. To determine the type, you need to read the composition. The first substance is the one that contains the most.
In addition to the material, it is necessary to purchase plastic wrap, which will serve as waterproofing. In rare cases, a coating waterproofing can be used instead of polyethylene. You will also need a damper tape.
Base requirements
It should be noted that self-leveling floors can not be applied to every surface. The foundation must meet the following requirements:
- The floors should not squeak.
- The boards are securely fixed and do not bend while walking.
- The flooring has a slight blockage.
- There are no serious defects on the surface: large cracks, holes, and so on.
- Each board must be intact, free from traces of mold and mildew.
It is not necessary that the base be even, the main thing is the good quality of the board, the absence of squeak and solidity If any of the listed defects are found, you will have to replace part of the floor or the entire surface.
Preparatory work
Self-leveling floors can be laid on a wooden floor only if the base is well prepared. It is from this stage that the duration of use of the coating, its appearance and performance depends.
Immediately before starting work, check the air temperature and humidity level. The required parameters are indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging. Compliance with these requirements is the key to successful completion of the work.
Preparation of bulk solution
You need to take a clean, dry container and pour water into it with a temperature of +5 to +25 ° C. Then add the mixture and mix with a construction mixer or drill with the appropriate nozzle for 7 minutes. After that, it is necessary to let the solution brew for about 15 minutes and repeat the procedure. It is better not to cook the composition in large portions, since it begins to set on average after half an hour.
Attention! It is necessary to strictly follow the proportions indicated by the manufacturer. If you add little water, the mixture will dry out too quickly, possibly even while pouring. Otherwise, the finished coating will be less durable.
The preparation of bulk mixtures is carried out exclusively using a construction mixer or a mixing nozzle Filling technology
The method of pouring floors in a private house or apartment using leveling compounds practically does not differ from working with a cement-sand mixture, only self-leveling floors dry out faster.
You need to start from the place that is located below everything in level. The material is poured from the container onto the space between the lighthouses and leveled with the rule, passing them along the lighthouses. After that, you need to roll the area with a needle roller. Treat all strips in this way.
When the material begins to set, it is necessary to get the beacons out of it. The resulting grooves should be filled with the same solution and leveled taking into account the finished surface, which will serve as a level. It is recommended to start further finishing no earlier than in a week.
To ensure that the repair results are not disappointing, you must follow the recommendations:
To equip self-leveling floors on wooden bases, it is necessary to follow the above rules and recommendations given by manufacturers on packages. In addition, it is important to remember that the material dries quite quickly, so it is best to work with a partner.