A capital stove in the country, as a rule, performs several functions at once - it heats the room, allows you to cook food, and also serves as an interior decoration. As a result, the need for its installation is obvious for many summer residents. Of course, such a design will be very expensive if you order it from specialists, so then we will consider how to make a stove for a summer residence with our own hands.
General information
Dignity
Stove heating has a number of advantages, among which are:
- Efficiency - the furnaces have a high efficiency with low fuel consumption;
- Ease of operation - the dacha stove with your own hands is easily melted;
- Strength and durability if the structure has been correctly built;
- It can look attractive and thus decorate the interior of the house.
disadvantages
As for the disadvantages, these include:
- Bulky - ovens take up quite a lot of usable space.
- The need to equip a chimney.
- Fire hazard - the stove must not be left unattended for a long time.
- High price if specialists are engaged in the construction of the furnace.
In the photo - a variant of a small country stove
Furnace types
All existing designs of stoves that are used in summer cottages differ in several ways:
I must say that when it comes to how to make a stove in the country with your own hands, as a rule, a brick stove is meant. Therefore, further we will consider the features of the construction of just such a furnace.
Furnace construction
A do-it-yourself brick stove built in the country house, as mentioned above, can not only heat the room, but also serve as a stove on which you can cook food. Below we will consider the construction of a similar structure, which consists of two chambers.
The lower firebox is the main one and is used for. The upper one is used for cooking. A cast iron sheet with burners is used as the top of the stove.
Advice!
On sale you can find special sheets for such ovens, which have one or two round holes.
Blueprints
Before starting construction, you need to prepare drawings for the future furnace. I must say that, without being a specialist, it is unlikely that it will be possible to prepare drawings of a stove for a summer residence with your own hands. Therefore, it is better to use ready-made projects that can be found on the Internet, in particular, some of them are also available on our construction portal.
Also, you can ask for help from specialized firms that can prepare a furnace design in accordance with individual requirements. It makes sense to use such services if you want to build a whole complex - a Russian stove with a barbecue, a fireplace, etc.
When preparing a project, you should immediately decide where exactly the summer cottage oven will be built with your own hands, and how much space it will take. Therefore, at this stage, you will need a plan for a country house, on which a stove with all dimensions should be depicted.
Materials (edit)
Before folding the stove in the country with your own hands, you should prepare such a set of building materials:
- Refractory and kiln solid bricks;
- Clay for mortar;
- Cast iron stove with burners;
- Cast iron doors for the oven;
- Asbestos or metal pipe at least 3 meters long;
- Masonry tools;
- Solution container;
- The ingredients for concrete are sand, cement and crushed stone.
Foundation
A do-it-yourself stove for a summer residence is necessarily erected on a foundation. Therefore, first of all, it is necessary to prepare a concrete base. For this, a plate of the appropriate size is poured, the surface of which must be perfectly flat.
The pouring process does not differ from the usual screed. You can start further work only after the concrete has completely solidified. This usually takes 28 days.
Masonry
Do-it-yourself stoves and fireplaces for summer cottages are built from special oven bricks. The furnace chamber is laid out with refractory bricks. Before starting laying, bricks must be soaked in water for 5-6 hours.
The masonry is carried out on clay mortar, which should have the consistency of thick sour cream. The brick is laid with your own hands according to the scheme given above.
The order of work is as follows:
- The brick must be smeared with clay and laid on the stove;
- In this way, the first row is laid, while the evenness of the laying is checked by the level and plumb line. The seam between the bricks should be no more than 3 millimeters.
- According to the scheme, all subsequent rows of bricks are laid. In parallel with this, the doors are installed in the designated places.
- After the construction of the brick structure, it is necessary to lay the cast-iron plate, covering the joint with clay mortar. If necessary, the slab can be cut with a grinder.
- The final stage in the construction of the stove is the installation of a chimney, which must rise above the roof by at least a meter. On our portal you can find detailed information about the device of this design.
Advice!
If the suburban area is not connected to electricity, renting a diesel generator for a summer residence will help to provide electricity during construction.
These are, perhaps, all the main stages of construction. If the technology was followed, then repairing the stove in the country with your own hands will not be needed soon.
If you do not plan to use the oven for cooking, it makes sense to build a fireplace. This design is simpler, more economical, and also has some of its advantages. Moreover, you can purchase a ready-made cassette (combustion chamber), which will remain overlaid with bricks and connected to the chimney.
Stoves are being built - fireplaces for summer cottages with their own hands, using a ready-made chamber, as follows:
- As in the case of the "Dutch", first of all it is necessary, as the builders say, "to deduce zero", i.e. pour a concrete slab, while ensuring a horizontal level.
- Further, in the first three rows, you need to lay an ash pan and a blower.
- Then the fireplace cassette is installed... I must say that this structure weighs on average about 90 kilograms, so its installation is a difficult and very responsible process.
- After installing the camera, the tub is not erected around... Moreover, the brick must hide all protruding metal parts.
- Then the upper part of the structure is closed.
- At the end of the work, the fireplace chamber is connected to the chimney... The chimney pipe can also be bricked.
Advice!
Recently, block-container country houses have been popular among summer residents.
For them, floor-standing fireplaces should be used, which do not require a foundation and brickwork.
These are, perhaps, all the main points of the independent construction of stoves and fireplaces.
Output
Building a stove in the country yourself is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. However, it is advisable to have bricklaying skills. For the rest, you should simply adhere to the recommendations above.
You can get more information on this topic from the video in this article.
When the question arises about heating a small country house, the best solution would be to build a stove. It is economical and practical, since the heat transfer from correctly stacked brick ovens is at least 90 percent.
Brick kilns have lived up to their purpose for centuries. And no matter how its design changes and improves, the basic requirements for it remain the same. These are safety in use, ease of use and the ability to keep warm for a long time.
With a strong desire, it is not difficult to lay out a mini brick oven with your own hands.
Why are small-sized wood-fired ovens beneficial?
The advantage of a small oven is that it takes up a very small area with high heat transfer. For a country house, bathhouse, outbuildings, a mini wood-fired and coal-fired oven is ideal. There is a minimum of building materials, but if you put the hob on top, you can cook food and heat the water. Even in our time, a brick heating stove remains quite popular. The most important thing is that it will not be difficult for a novice master to make it. Having an ordering scheme in front of your eyes, you can fold the mini oven with your own hands in just one daylight. You just need to first prepare all the necessary tools and building materials.
Compared to the "potbelly stove", a brick mini-oven for a dacha on a wood looks aesthetically pleasing. Subsequently, it can be refined with tiles, and it will not only warm, but also decorate a country house.
Sometimes its design is combined with a fireplace, and this will already be a mini fireplace stove. You can immediately build in a tank for heating water or provide a niche for drying vegetables and fruits.
There are a lot of options for brick ovens. But these are more complex designs, and you need to start building a mini-oven for a summer residence with your own hands from the simplest model.
Required tools
You need few tools, they can be easily purchased at any hardware store:
List of tools:
- a trowel, or as it is also called, a trowel;
- handy hammer pickaxe;
- building level;
- roulette;
- plumb line.
In addition, in the process of work you will need:
2 buckets (for water and mortar), a construction sieve, a trough where to sift the sand.
Building materials for mini oven
You must first prepare the clay. To do this, fill it with water and leave it like this for about a day. You can speed up the process, for this you thoroughly knead it every five to seven minutes, preferably with a drill mixer, for an hour. Strain through a sieve. The sand must also be sieved beforehand.
To fold a mini heating stove, which will occupy an area of 0.4 sq. meter, you will need:
- 20 liters of solution;
- 60 pieces of red oven bricks;
- 38-40 pieces of fireclay bricks;
- firebox door;
- blower door;
- grate;
- hob;
- chimney valve.
Doors, grate and hob must be cast iron.
If you do without fireclay bricks, then it will be a model of a mini wood-fired stove, not coal. Even the highest quality red bricks will deteriorate over time from the high temperatures created by coal fuel. In general, to make a mini Russian stove with your own hands, you just need to adhere to the recommendations.
Location and preparation of the foundation
The best location for such a stove if the summer cottage consists of one room - in the center. In other cases, you need to focus on piers or intersections of interior partitions. Be sure to take into account the rules of fire safety.
No foundation is needed for a structure of this size. However, in the base it is necessary to put a thick, solid board, fixed with lags, on top - a fire layer. It can be a regular asbestos-cement sheet.
Then arrange a waterproofing layer of polyethylene and roofing felt about 80 by 55 cm in size. Pour a thin layer of sand.
The procedure for laying a brick oven with your own hands
The next stage is the construction of the stove itself:
- In the first row, the solution is not applied. 12 pieces are laid out strictly horizontally on the sand. A blower is placed on the clay-sand mortar. The door is wrapped in asbestos cardboard, wrapped with a cord. Fastening is done with wire.
- Then the laying of the second row is made.
- In the third row, lined with refractory bricks, strictly above the blower, a grate is placed.
- The bricks in the fourth row go to the edge.
- In the chimney, a support for the partition is provided. The back wall is laid out without the use of mortar. These bricks will then need to be removed. Then they put the firebox door, wrapping it with an asbestos cord. A couple of bricks are temporarily used for fastening. Secure with wire.
- The fifth row is laid out flat, like the fourth.
- The bricks of the sixth row go to the edge.
- The bricks in the seventh row are laid flat again. For inter-row bundling, you need to start with a brick chipped off three-quarters in size. Having placed two bricks with an edge, they begin to build the back wall.
- The eighth row will close the firebox door. To direct the fire towards the center of the hob, the brick is placed at an angle. Tightness is ensured with a wetted asbestos cord.
- The ninth row is also laid using an asbestos cord. The peculiarity of this row is that it is slightly shifted back so that the door remains open.
The beginning of the chimney is formed in the tenth row. There will be a place to attach the iron pipe. In the eleventh row, a chimney valve is installed. At this stage, step-by-step instructions will come in handy - how to fold the stove with your own hands, which will help you not to get confused in the details.
Closing events
Three more rows of brickwork are made to connect to the pipe. Having taken out the "knock-out" bricks, the channels of the furnace are immediately cleaned of construction debris. The perimeter of the structure is carefully covered with a plinth.
The whitewashing or facing of the stove is done after a test firing up.
Only after the whitewashed or tiled mini-oven is completely dry, it can be used. In order for the mini stove for the summer residence to please for a long time, you should not rush to kindle it. Let it stand for a week or two with the doors open.
The stove brings coziness and comfort, so rarely any private house can do without it. The services of professional stove-makers are quite expensive and not everyone can afford. We will tell you how to properly build a brick stove.
Furnace types - classification depending on the parameters
Stove masonry is not an easy task, but anyone with the knowledge and patience can handle it. When choosing a furnace, take into account the parameters by which they are classified. The first step is to pay attention to its purpose. Heating stoves are designed only for heating, they can accumulate heat and give it away for a long time. For this, the outer walls are laid out in half a brick, or even a whole one. They slowly warm up and slowly cool down, they do not heat up much, massive, high consumption of bricks. They also arrange fast heating heating stoves, which are less massive, give off heat well, but cool down quickly.
The most common type in Russia is heating and cooking stoves. They not only heat the room, but also prepare food. In addition to a cast iron stove, they almost always have an oven. In addition, they can be built into: a boiler for water heating, a container for heating water, niches for drying, beds. A Russian oven of this type has a chamber for baking bread and pies. They differ from ordinary kitchen stoves in high efficiency, high heat capacity, keep heat for a long time, and the draft is stable.
For greater heat transfer, a heating shield is connected to ordinary kitchen stoves. This is the cheapest construction in terms of material costs and labor: up to 200 bricks will be needed, it will heat a small room. A very good option for small summer cottages. The stove, in addition to the heating shield, can be equipped with an oven, a water heating boiler, a tank for heating water.
Firebox - heat transfer and fuel affect the device
The simplest device is for a heating stove, which has two parts: a firebox and smoke chimneys. Other types of ovens contain additional devices. The main part of any stove is a firebox. Certain requirements are imposed on it, in particular, it must be of sufficient size: for one tab it can hold almost all the fuel. Air must be supplied in the required volume, a high temperature must be constantly maintained.
With insufficient dimensions of the firebox, low heat transfer is observed. The width depends on the required heat transfer: up to 1 thousand. kcal - 12 cm, up to 3 thousand - 27 cm, if more - up to 50 cm. For convenience, the dimensions of the firebox are taken as multiples of a brick. The length is made from 26 cm to 51 cm, the longest is for firewood. The fuel used affects the height: 6-15 rows (42-100 cm). The grate is placed a row or two below the door to prevent coals from falling out. Often the rear is tilted higher than the front for better combustion.
Fuel tanks: a - wood-burning; b - peat; c - coal.
Fireclay brick is used for the firebox, with which it is laid out or lined from the inside. The total thickness of the walls is not less than ⅟ 2 bricks. The firebox, made in the form of a vault, improves the quality of combustion. All types of fuel burns well in the wood-burning firebox. For coal, a reinforced grate with a thickness of 4 cm and a good blowing are required, for which the dimensions of the grate are equal to the length of the ash pan under the firebox.
Chimney - the advantages and disadvantages of different systems
The smoke circulation system increases the efficiency - gases, when moving from the firebox through the channels and chambers, give off heat to the walls. It is important to observe the ratio between the volume of the firebox and the inner surface of the smoke channels. With an excess of the area of the gas channels, the temperature drops so much that condensate appears. Small internal area reduces efficiency - hot gases escape into the pipe.
In the best way, heat is absorbed when the ratio of the areas of the outer walls of the stove, which give off heat, and the inner part of the chimneys is 1: 3.
The section, number and location of the flue gas turns determine their internal area. It is better to fold the channels in multiples of the size of the brick, they should provide free passage of gases. The cross-section must correspond to the thermal performance of the furnace: it smokes when there is an insufficient cross-section and does not heat up well when it is excessive. A section of 170–250 cm 2 is used for heat transfer from furnaces of 3 thousand kcal and less, from 3 to 5 thousand kcal - up to 300 cm 2.
Chimneys can have channels (one or more) and be channelless.
Various types of smoke circuits: a - multiturn vertical; b - multiturn horizontal; в - single-turn vertical; d - multichannel single-turn; d - channelless.
As part of a single-turn system, one lifting channel and the same or several parallel lowering channels. Parallel channels have low resistance to gases, the furnace mass is heated more evenly. The single-turn system has a drawback, which manifests itself in a significantly greater heating of the upper part than the lower one. In small furnaces, it is compensated by a significant heating of the firebox walls. For large furnaces, a scheme is used according to which hot gases flow through the channels from below, thus ensuring normal heating of the room.
A multi-turn system consists of vertical or horizontal channels in series. The first drawback of such a system is that the gases have to experience considerable resistance in numerous corners. The second drawback is the strikingly unequal heating of the walls of the first and last channels, which often causes cracking of the masonry. Vertical channels provide good heat transfer, horizontal channels - traction, which helps with the pipe of insufficient height.
Fire safety requires that the top of the stove ceiling be 40 cm from the ceiling made of combustible materials. The chimney section from the stove to the cutting in the ceiling is called a neck, its smallest height is three rows of bricks. Neck - a place for installing valves or views, which are closed at the end of combustion. If these appliances are installed lower, a lot of heat is lost. The gases are thrown out through the chimney, the construction of which will be described below.
Choosing a stove - savings, heat transfer, simplicity and design
Determining the design of the furnace, take into account its ability to meet certain requirements. Efficiency plays an important role when low fuel consumption ensures an acceptable room temperature. Few people want to heat the stove even twice a day, so preference is given to structures that evenly give off heat over 24 hours. These include ovens that warm up well at the bottom.
The maximum surface temperature must not exceed 95 °, otherwise a burning smell will be felt. Simplicity of design, compliance with fire safety requirements also play an important role. Finally, the design of the stove must match the overall aesthetic appearance of the room.
But the most important requirement for any oven is the ability to warm up all rooms. For this, heat loss is determined based on the volume, size of windows and doors, the characteristics of the material from which the house is built. Calculations show that each m 3 of a room with brick walls at an average winter temperature of -25 ° loses 60 kcal / h. One square meter of the oven is capable of delivering 500 kcal / h.
When calculating, we first determine the heat loss at home. Suppose you have an ordinary 7 × 9 brick dacha with a ceiling height of 2.5 m. There are 4 separate rooms in total, which are planned to be heated by one stove installed in the middle of the room. First, we determine the cubic capacity: 7 × 9 × 2.5 = 157.5. We multiply by the heat loss of one cube. meters: 157.5 × 60 = 9450. This means that a furnace with a heat transfer rate of 1000 kcal / h is needed, a certain reserve must always be made. A simpler calculation is based on the fact that one square meter of the floor area occupied by the stove heats 30–35 m 2 of the room.
Accommodation - how to determine the best location
The location of the stove is chosen by everyone at their own discretion, but, nevertheless, general recommendations should be taken into account. First of all, the stove in the house should give off maximum heat. If you plan to heat one room, the stove is installed at a short distance from the wall, at least 15 cm, but it can also be placed close to the walls. Then the heat energy will be given off by two of the four sides. In diagrams a, b, you can see the location options with an air gap near the wall, which is also called a retreat.
If the stove structure will heat two adjacent rooms, then the most effective option is when it is built in a partition (the same figure, c). Heating is also possible in three adjacent rooms, as in the picture d. The stove is also located in the common room for all three rooms. In one room there is one side of the stove, on the others there are two. Figures e, f show options when the firebox is located on the veranda or in the utility room. This is a good option for small houses.
In a dwelling of four rooms, it is recommended to install the stove at the junction of two internal partitions so that one wall of the heating device exits into each of the rooms. This option provides an opportunity to heat from the kitchen, living room, veranda, without bringing garbage into the bedroom. Rough with a couch is great for a summer residence with several rooms. The lounger is taken out to any room that the owner prefers.
Foundation device - a reliable base for the furnace
After determining with the design and choosing a place, you can begin to bring the project to life. We start with the foundation, which is best done at the same time as the foundation of the building. In the case of building a stove in an already erected house, we disassemble the floor and do the filling. It makes no sense to put even the smallest and lightest stove on a wooden floor. In just a few years, even the thickest boards and logs begin to deteriorate, sag, and the oven will have to be rebuilt.
The size of the foundation makes the furnace larger by 30 cm in all directions.
It is imperative to make a foundation for a brick oven. It should not come into contact with the foundation of the walls; we provide a gap of at least 5 cm between them. We fill the space between the two foundations with heat-insulating material. Separate foundations will provide independent upsetting of the building walls and oven. If you connect both foundations, this often leads to distortion.
So that less heat from the stove goes into the ground, we put heat insulation on top of the concrete. It can be as follows: first, a slab of mineral fiber or basalt insulation, then a choice of foil, tin. Insulation is again on top, sheet metal on top. We soak the felt in clay milk and crown it with a layer of insulation. When it dries up, start laying. Such reliable thermal insulation protects against heat loss even in the most severe conditions.
Clay mortar for masonry - cooking secrets
Brick ovens are laid out on a clay-sand mortar. Clay has unique properties, turning into stone after exposure to fire, adheres well to bricks. To achieve maximum qualities from it, the solution should be prepared from pre-prepared ingredients with an optimal ratio.
First, we remove impurities from the clay. Grind and place in an oblong container, concentrating only at one end. Raise the part of the container where the clay is a little, pour a little water from the bottom. Gradually take the clay with a spatula and mix with water until a homogeneous paste-like substance is formed. We transfer it to another dish until the required volume of solution is collected.
We soak the purchased dry clay in a wide and deep bowl. We fall asleep 10–20 cm, cover completely with water. Stir after a day, add water if necessary and leave again for a day. When a paste-like mixture is obtained, the oven solution is considered ready. For strength, add a little salt to the solution: up to 250 g per bucket. The mass should slide off the trowel without traces. Water should not appear on the surface of the solution, if this happens, we add washed sand to the solution.
For 50 pieces of bricks laid flat, you will need a bucket of mortar with a joint thickness of 3-5 mm.
The solution must be of the required plasticity and fat content. To determine the quality of the solution, take the clay in five equal portions. Add different amounts of sand to four: 0.25, 0.5, 1, 1.5, and leave the fifth without adding sand. We knead the solution from each part, make pancakes from them and dry them. We determine the quality by touch and appearance. If the pancake crumbles, there is excess sand in it, there is little of it in the cracked pancake. If the sample does not crack and is homogeneous, it has an optimal ratio of constituent parts. It is in this proportion that we prepare the solution.
In the laying of brick ovens with your own hands, there are many secrets that only experienced craftsmen know, and unknown to beginners. First of all, this concerns the choice of bricks. Ceramic bricks of the grade not lower than M-250 are used, which are more expensive than the usual M-100, M-150, but more homogeneous, capable of withstanding constant heating and cooling. You can make decorative elements from it, ordinary brick is of little use for this.
The inner walls of the firebox are lined with refractory bricks that can withstand 1200 °. But behind it is a ceramic brick that can only withstand 650 °. When the firebox is very hot, the temperature is transferred to it, shortening its service life. To extend the life of the red brick in the firebox, it is insulated from refractory basalt with 5 mm cardboard.
It takes a lot of time to control the mortar on the facing row. To make the work go faster, masking tape is glued to the front of the brick, which is then removed. The facing row comes out nice and neat. Experienced stove-makers advise not to bother with preparing a clay-sand mortar, but to buy a ready-made sand mixture for stoves. It is packaged in 5, 10 and 25 kg.
It is more convenient to lay out any jumper, overcoat and other elements if you use a metal corner. It is laid out from the inside, pressing the brick on both sides. The length of the corner should not exceed 0.8 m, otherwise it may sag from heating. Avoid using front corners. In addition to being ugly, there is a high probability of getting burned if accidentally touched. Instead of corners on the front side, 16 mm threaded studs are used, which fix the front finish.
You can extend the life of the oven if you hide all the fittings in grooves with a depth equal to the thickness of the products.
Every stove-maker strives to lay out a row with a perfectly even seam, but not everyone succeeds. There is a simple technique: 8 mm metal rods are laid on each row, preferably rectangular ones. A mortar is laid between two rods, then bricks. When the last brick is laid, the rods are removed. Bricks must not be upset, otherwise the masonry will go in waves. The rods are lubricated with machine oil before use to make it easier to remove them from the masonry. Their length should not exceed 1 m, otherwise the masonry will be damaged when they are pulled out.
Chimney - how to ensure safety and good draft
On the stove in the house, a packing pipe is usually installed, which consists of a neck, a fluff at the ceiling, a riser in the attic, an otter at the roof and a head. The fluff protects the wooden parts of the ceiling and roof from heating and possible combustion during the fire. In these places, the pipe is made thickened, gradually letting in bricks. Metal can be used to support the brick rows, but these should not overlap the interior of the chimney.
At the place where the riser passes through the roof, an otter is made, which will not allow rain and snow to penetrate into the attic through the cracks. They are covered with roofing steel - a collar, the ends of which are run under the otter protrusions. The chimney is crowned with a head. Its height is determined by its location on the roof. In the middle of the ridge and at a distance of no more than 1.5 m from it, it should protrude 0.5 m above the ridge. At a distance of up to 3 m from the ridge, the top of the head is leveled with the ridge. At greater distances, ensure the height at an angle of no more than 10 ° in relation to the ridge.
The chimney is designed to provide good draft. It rises with an increase in the temperature of the outgoing gases, but it is not economically feasible to do this, so the pipe is driven to the required height, which should be 5–6 m from the grate to the top of the head. The plastered inner surface, the absence of cracks in the brickwork, also increases traction. To eliminate the influence of the wind, which can interfere with traction, a deflector is installed on the head.
Shvedka - the best option for a heating and cooking oven
The design has been proven for centuries, small and economical. With dimensions of 880 × 1010 mm and a height of 2170 mm, it is capable of heating more than 30 m 2. Typically, a firebox with a stove is located in the kitchen, and the back wall of the stove opens into the living area. It works great on wood, coal and briquettes. In summer, it is recommended to heat with small portions of coarse coal or pellets, firewood burns too quickly in hot weather. Coal consumption in the heating season is 1.5 tons.
We stock up for construction:
- brick M-150 - 570 pieces;
- 200 kg of dry mortar;
- 1.7 m of steel angle 40 × 40;
- 0.65 m steel strip 5 × 50;
- roofing iron for installation in front of the firebox;
- flat slate to cover the cooking chamber.
You will need standard appliances for the stove: grate, firebox door, blower, cast-iron stove with burners, valves - 2, cleaners - 3. The order of a Swedish stove with a hob is presented below.
An important structural element is the oven, which acts as an automatic switch between summer and winter running. It works as an aerodynamic barrier for gases escaping from the firebox. The gases are retained in it, completely burning out under the hob. They come out hot into the smoke circulation channels, they warm up the stove well. For this reason, the wall farthest from the firebox is sometimes made double and a heat exchanger with a hot water tank is placed in it.
Excessive heating of the hob is not observed, hot air from the niche goes into the room. In the summer, the kitchen, with the correct firebox, heats up no more than from a gas stove. Small amounts of fuel in the summer heat up the hob well, as the gases are trapped in the oven. The hotplate on the left heats up more, on the right less, but enough for cooking.
Hollandka - a small-sized furnace device with high heat transfer
This is a unique, simple structure of colossal efficiency. Compared to the classic Russian stove, it has more modest dimensions and a smaller wall thickness, which contributes to rapid heating. It attracts even owners of stylish modern cottages with its elegance and efficiency. When laying a Dutch stove, any variations are possible, which will not negatively affect its efficiency.
This is a purely heating stove, but, if desired, it can be equipped with a hob. The smallest structure is 0.5 × 0.5 m, for the most massive one will need only 650 bricks, including 200 refractory bricks. The main material is brick of any quality, which does not affect its stability and functionality. But for the firebox, it is imperative to use refractory bricks. It warms up quickly, cools down slowly, fuel is consumed economically. The Dutch woman is capable of heating up to 70 m 2.
As can be seen from the diagram, the Dutch stove does not have a grate, the fuel is loaded into the furnace, and the combustion intensity is low. Efficiency is achieved due to a special smoke circulation device. Gases from the firebox rise through the first channel and return back through the second channel. There they heat up again and go into the third channel. In the fourth and fifth channels, the same principle is repeated, and only through the sixth channel gases go into the chimney.
Cooking ovens include cookers of various designs. They come in various sizes and are only used for cooking. Connect the kitchen ovens to the root or top pipes.
Brick cookers
By their design, cookers can be divided into simple, medium and complex.
A simple kitchen stove has a firebox and a blower door, a grate and a smoke damper. It is the simplest of all household stoves.
Kitchen stoves of medium complexity, in addition to the above-mentioned stove appliances, have an oven, and complex ones also have a hot water box. Ovens are made of black steel with a thickness of at least 1 mm, and hot water boxes are made of galvanized steel. The casing of the hot water box is made of black steel with a thickness of at least 1 mm. The thicker the steel, the more durable the devices.
Stove with double-burner hob and oven
In a simple kitchen stove, hot flue gases from the firebox are directed under the cast-iron stove, and then they are discharged through the hole under the chimney into the chimney.
In the rest of the stoves, hot flue gases are directed under the cast-iron stove and then, going down, they warm the walls of the oven or one wall of the hot water box, and then are diverted into the pipe, while heating the lower wall of the oven, the lower and other walls of the hot water box.
The above stoves do not have a cooking chamber, therefore, during cooking, steam and smell are emitted into the room, which negatively affects the microclimate of the room. This article provides drawings of sections and orders of a kitchen stove with an improved design, in which a cooking chamber is provided, connected to a pipe using a ventilation duct blocked by a ventilation valve.
Simple kitchen stove
A simple kitchen stove has dimensions, mm: 1160x510x630 (without a foundation, i.e. without two rows of brickwork on the floor).
The following materials are required for laying a cooker:
- red brick - 120 pcs.;
- red clay - 50 kg;
- sand - 40 kg;
- grate - 28 × 25 cm;
- furnace door - 25 × 21 cm;
- blower door - 25 × 14 cm;
- cast iron stove for two burners - 70 × 40 cm;
- strapping the slab (corner 30x30x4 mm) -3.5 m;
- roofing steel sheet under the slab - 1160 × 510 mm;
- building felt - 1 kg;
One stove-maker can lay down a simple kitchen stove within 3 hours (not counting the laying of the chimney), in addition, it takes 1.5 hours to raise the material and prepare the clay-sand mortar. calculating half an hour per 1 m of pipe laying (when laying a pipe in a quarter of a brick).
The heat transfer of a simple stove with two cooking times is about 0.7-0.8 kW (660-700 kcal / h).
The picture below shows vertical and horizontal sections of a simple cooker. Further, drawings of the masonry will be given in rows (ordering). From the cuts and drawings of the masonry along the rows, it can be seen that laying a simple kitchen stove is not difficult.
Sections of a simple kitchen stove: a - facade; b - section A-A (longitudinal vertical section of the furnace); c - section B-B (transverse vertical section). Designations: 1- firebox; 2 - ash pan; 3 - grate; 4 - smoke valve; 5 - cast iron plate (flooring).
Before you start laying a simple kitchen stove, you should purchase the necessary stove appliances.
Having prepared a clay-sand mortar, they begin laying a simple kitchen stove. If the slab is placed on a foundation, then it is leveled up. When laying the slab on a wooden floor, it is necessary to cut a sheet of roofing steel to the size of the slab. Put a layer of sheet asbestos on the floor, and in its absence - two layers of building felt, well soaked in clay-sand mortar, cover everything with a sheet of roofing steel and nail to the floor. Then, a platform is made of a whole brick in two rows of masonry on a clay-sand mortar. After that, they start laying the slabs from the first row strictly in order.
First row put, observing the rules for dressing seams from selected whole bricks, as indicated in the figure below. The completed masonry is checked for squareness.
The first row of a simple kitchen oven
During masonry second row arrange a blower, install a blower door, which is attached to the masonry using an oven wire. The front blower door can be temporarily supported with bricks, which are stacked on the floor in front of the blower door. The bottom of the ash pan is 380 × 250 mm.
The second row of the kitchen stove
Third row similar to the previous one, but the sutures should be well tied.
Third row
Fourth row overlaps the blower door, while leaving only the opening of the ash pan measuring 250 × 250 mm, on which the grate is laid. If possible, laying from the fourth row should preferably be made of refractory bricks, as shown in the figure below.
Fourth row masonry. Shaded bricks are refractory. The arrows indicate the directions of movement of hot flue gases in the heating furnace.
Fifth row forms a 510 × 250 mm firebox under the firebox. The brick adjacent to the back of the grate is chipped off to form an inclined plane along which the fuel will roll onto the grate (see section BB along A-A). When laying this row, you need to install the furnace door, having previously attached the roofing steel legs to it with rivets.
Masonry of the fifth row of the oven
Sixth row laid in the same way as the previous one, but the seams should be bandaged.
Masonry of the sixth row of the furnace
Seventh row put according to the figure below. This next to leave a chimney under the stove, connecting the firebox with the chimney.
Seventh row of oven
Eighth row performed strictly horizontally, with this row they overlap the furnace door. On the laid out eighth row, a cast-iron plate is laid using a thin layer of clay-sand mortar. Prefabricated cast iron slabs have protrusions, or stiffening ribs, on the lower side, which retreat 15 mm from the edges of the slabs.
Eighth oven row
The internal dimensions of the eighth row masonry should be such that the slab with its ribs freely goes there and has a gap on all sides of at least 5 mm, designed to expand the metal when it is heated. If you do not observe this, then the cast iron plate, expanding, will destroy the stove masonry. To make the masonry strong, an angle steel strapping is placed on the eighth row. It is advisable to cover the frame with a fireproof varnish, which protects the steel from rust.
After laying ninth row a smoke damper is installed using a thin layer of clay-sand mortar. This is the final row, followed by the laying of the chimney.
The final row of a simple kitchen oven
The stove works as follows. Flue gases from the firebox fall under the cast-iron stove, then through the hole under the chimney through the smoke damper they are discharged into the chimney.
There is no cleaning hole in the kitchen stove, since you can clean the chimney through the hole under the chimney, where you can easily stick your hand through the burner of the cast-iron stove.
Example of laying a hob
Firstly, in the kitchen stove, the fire door is installed on the same level with the grate. In the stove, the flue gases constantly maintain a high temperature in the chimney, as a result of which it is not necessary to stack thick fuel on the grate. Secondly, with such an installation of the combustion door, the distance from the grate to the cast iron plate will be only 280 mm, which makes it possible to quickly cook food even with low fuel consumption.
After finishing laying the furnace, it must be dried by opening the furnace and blower doors and the valve in the pipe.
The longer the oven dries, the stronger the masonry will be. The stove can be dried with small test fireboxes, but after the trial fireboxes, the valve in the pipe and the blower door must be left open.
After complete drying, the kitchen stove is plastered with a clay-sand mortar, followed by whitewashing.
Exterior decoration is best done as follows: after laying the eighth row and installing the cast-iron plate, as well as before installing the corner steel strapping, the kitchen stove is walled up on all sides in a roofing steel case (galvanized steel can be used). Pre-cut the corresponding holes according to the dimensions of the furnace and blower doors. The case is attached to the floor with a plinth, which is nailed around the slab. The outer surface of the case is cleaned and coated with an oven varnish that can withstand high temperatures.
In front of the furnace door, a pre-furnace sheet is nailed to the floor with nails 50 mm apart from one another. If the plinth was nailed earlier, then the pre-furnace sheet must be folded onto the plinth.
Stove with oven
A stove with an oven has dimensions, mm: 1290x640x560 (without a foundation, i.e. without two rows of brickwork on the floor).
The following materials are required for laying a cooker with an oven:
- red brick - 140 pcs.;
- red clay - 60 kg;
- sand - 50 kg;
- grate - 26 × 25 cm;
- furnace door - 25 × 21 cm;
- blower door - 14 × 25 cm;
- cleaning doors 130 × 140 mm - 2 pcs .;
- a cast iron stove of five composite plates measuring 53 × 18 cm with two burners;
- smoke valve - 130 × 130 mm;
- oven - 45x31x28 cm;
- strapping the slab (corner 30x30x4 mm) - 4 m;
- pre-furnace sheet made of roofing steel - 500 × 700 mm;
- roofing steel sheet under the slab - 1290 × 640 mm;
- building felt - 1.2 kg;
- metal box for collecting ash in the ash pan - 350x230x100 mm.
One stove-maker can fold this stove for 3-4 hours, in addition, it takes about 2 hours to bring the material and prepare the clay-sand mortar. The heat transfer of the stove with two cooking times is about 0.8 kW (770 kcal / h). The figure below shows a general view, longitudinal and cross sections of a stove with an oven. Below are the pictures-orders of each row. Laying a stove with an oven is also not difficult and is similar to laying a simple stove, but here you have to install an oven and clean doors.
Kitchen stove with oven: a - general view; b - sections A-A, B-B (vertical sections), B-C, G-G (horizontal sections). Designations: 1 - ash pan; 2 - grate; 3 - firebox; 4 - cast iron plate; 5 - oven; 6 - smoke valve; 7 - furnace door; 8 - blower door; 9 - cleaning holes.
When laying a slab on an independent foundation, before starting work, level its top with a layer of clay-sand mortar.
When installing the slab on the floor, before starting the laying of the first row, it is necessary to carry out the same work as when laying a simple kitchen stove.
Masonry first row made from selected whole bricks, strictly adhering to the rules for dressing the seams. The length of the stove must correspond to the length of five bricks, the width to the length of 2.5 bricks. Using a cord, check the equality of the diagonals.
Laying the first row of a cooker with an oven
Second row spread, strictly following the order. Here, an ash pan with a size of 380 × 250 mm is left, a blower door is installed and fastened, clean holes are left on the back wall (the width of the holes should be equal to the width of the brick, i.e. 12 cm). If possible, install cleaning doors with a size of 130 × 140 mm. At the clearing hole extreme from the ash pan, a brick is laid on the edge, as shown in the order of the masonry. For better fixing of the oven, half a brick is placed on the edge in the middle of the installation site.
Laying the second row of the slab
Third row similar to the previous one, only the rule of suture dressing should be observed.
Laying of the third row of the slab
Fourth row covers the blower and cleaning doors. After the end of the masonry of the fourth row, an oven is installed on a thin layer of clay-sand mortar in a pre-marked place. After that, the grate is installed. With the same brick installed on the edge, they block the chimney into the chimney.
Laying of the fourth row of a plate with an oven
During masonry fifth row the furnace door is installed and fastened, the brick is cut off by the grate before installation so that the fuel gradually rolls onto the grate during combustion.
Laying of the fifth row of the slab
Sixth row similar to the fifth.
Laying of the sixth row of the slab
Seventh row lay out in order. The formed channel of the chimney from the front side is laid with the help of three bricks, as a result of which the internal size of the formed channel under the chimney will be 130 × 130 mm. In the image of this row, next to the oven, you can see a 10 mm diameter and 160 mm long steam outlet pipe that connects the oven to the riser. This pipe is designed to remove steam and odor.
Laying of the seventh row of a plate with an oven. The arrows indicate the directions of movement of hot flue gases in the heating furnace.
Eighth row
perform strictly horizontally in level. This row covers the oven and the firebox door. The upper wall of the oven is coated with a layer of clay solution up to 10-
15 mm, which will protect the oven from fast burning.
Laying of the eighth row of a brick oven (before installing the cast iron plate)
In this case, it is necessary that the distance between the top of the clay mixture and the cast-iron plate be at least 70 mm. After that, a cast-iron plate and a lining of angle steel are installed on a thin layer of clay-sand mortar.
Eighth row of brick oven (after installing the cast iron plate)
After laying ninth row only the masonry of the vertical channel remains. The ninth row is laid according to the image below.
The ninth row of the oven
After laying tenth row install a smoke damper.
The tenth row of the oven
Masonry eleventh row start the chimney. Further laying of the pipe is not difficult.
The final row of the stove (the laying of the chimney is not taken into account)
A stove with an oven works like this. From the firebox, flue gases are directed under the cast-iron stove, from where they, heating the oven from the back on both sides, are lowered under the oven and directed to the hole under the chimney. Rising along the vertical channel, they enter the chimney through the smoke damper and are discharged into the atmosphere.
Cooking stove with oven and hot water box
For the masonry of a cooker with oven and hot water box measuring 1290 × 640 mm, the same materials are required as for the previous cooker. Additionally, you should purchase a water-heating box with a size of 510x280x120 mm.
The figure below shows a general view, a horizontal section along A-A and a vertical section along B-B of the slab.
Kitchen stove with oven and hot water box: a - general view; b - sections. Definitions: 1 - firebox; 2 - cast iron plate; 3 - oven; 4 - hot water box; 5 - smoke valve; 6 - ash pan; 7 - corner steel strapping
Put the stove with oven and hot water box in the same order as the stove with oven. The only difference is that after laying the third row, instead of a partition with a brick on the edge between the oven and the vertical channel, a hot water box is installed in a case. The height of the hot water box must correspond to the height of four rows of flat brickwork. The rest of the masonry is completely similar to the masonry of a kitchen stove with an oven.
Improved cooker with oven and hot water box
In the kitchen stoves in the countryside, they not only prepare food for people, but also cook fodder for livestock, and boil the laundry during washing. During the heating, a lot of steam enters the room and foreign unpleasant odors are emitted. Because of this, the humidity of the air in the room rises, which negatively affects its microclimate. Therefore, in order to remove foreign smell and steam in kitchen stoves, it is desirable to provide a cooking chamber, which is connected to the chimney using a ventilation duct. A ventilation damper must be installed in the ventilation duct.
Installing a double-leaf door in the cooking chamber allows you to keep food hot in it for a long time and thus prevent it from souring.
Cooking chamber in a brick oven
The firebox and the ash pan (ash pan) are closed from the outside with appropriate doors. The upper surface of the oven is protected from hot gases with a layer of clay mortar 10-12 cm thick. It is advisable to lay the stove from the fourth to the ninth row of refractory bricks (especially the firebox).
An example of overlapping an ash pan
It is advisable to make a kitchen stove up to the ninth row of masonry from sheet steel, and to increase its strength, after installing the frame on a clay-sand mortar, install an angle steel strapping. Since the mass of such a slab will be more than one ton, it is installed on an independent foundation.
If it is impossible to build an independent foundation, the floor must be reinforced with additional beams, which are mounted on brick posts. Instead of brick pillars, you can use pillars made of hard logs, reinforced concrete pillars, iron pipes with a cross section of at least 180-200 mm.
The improved design cooker has a "forward" slide valve. During prolonged heating of the stove, water evaporation in the hot water box is possible. To stop this, add some cold water to it and open the “forward” valve. In this case, the flue gases from under the cast-iron stove do not go down, but immediately go into the chimney. As a result, the hot water box stops warming up, the evaporation of water in it stops.
Example of a "forward" stroke valve
For the convenience of cleaning the ash pan from ash, a special roofing steel box with a size of 350x230x100 mm is installed in it. This prevents contamination of the room when cleaning the ash pan from ash.
A stove of this design has the following advantages over the previous stove with an oven and hot water box:
- during cooking, steam and foreign odors do not enter the room, which are removed into the atmosphere through the ventilation hole;
- food cooked on the stove in the cooking chamber remains hot for a long time and does not sour during the day;
- with the help of the “forward” valve, it is possible to cook food without heating the hot water box and thereby preventing further evaporation of water in it.
The figure below shows a general view of the kitchen stove from the front, here are also drawings of sections of the stove in the most difficult places. Masonry drawings in rows will be further, and they give a comprehensive idea of the internal structure of the slab. Using the orders and drawings in rows, you can fold the stove yourself, without the help of a stove-maker.
Kitchen stove with oven and hot water box of improved design: a - facade; b - sections A-A, B-B, c - sections V-B, G-G, D-D, E-E. Definitions: 1 - blower door; 2 - furnace door; 3 - oven; 4 - the door of the cooking chamber; 5 - smoke valve; 6 - ventilation valve; 7 - gate valve of "forward" stroke; 8 - hot water box; 9 - cleaning holes; 10 - cast iron plate.
A cooker with an oven and a hot water box of improved design has dimensions, mm: 1290x640x1330.
The following materials are required for masonry:
- red brick - 250 pcs.;
- refractory bricks - 80 pcs.;
- red clay - 180 kg;
- sand - 90 kg;
- furnace door - 250 × 210 mm;
- blower door - 250 × 140 mm;
- grate grate - 280 × 250 mm;
- oven oven measuring 250x280x450 mm;
- cast iron stove with two burners - 700 × 400 mm;
- hot water box - 250x140x510 mm;
- pre-furnace sheet - 500 × 700 mm;
- strip steel with dimensions 400x250x6 mm;
- door to the cooking chamber - 750x350x5 mm;
- angular steel for strapping a plate with a size of 30x30x3 mm - 4.1 m;
- strip steel for overlapping the cooking chamber with dimensions 450x45x4 mm - 4 pcs.
The stove can be folded down by one stove-maker within 18-20 hours; an additional 6 hours are required to prepare the solution and apply the material.
To fold the stove with the firebox on the left side, you need to consider the drawings with the help of a mirror placed on the edge of the drawing.
The stove is laid out as follows. Masonry first row produced on a foundation erected to floor level. The first row defines the basic dimensions of the slab. The length of the slab is equal to the length of the masonry of five bricks on a clay-sand mortar, and the width is equal to the length of 2.5 bricks.
First row of improved range cooker with oven and hot water box
During masonry second row in front, two cleaning doors and a blower door are installed. They are attached to the masonry with an oven wire.
Masonry of the second row of the oven; 1 - blower door, 9 - cleaning holes.
Masonry third row produced according to the order, it is similar to the previous row. After laying the third row, a hot water box is installed.
Masonry of the third row of the oven; 11 - steel sheet 3 mm thick.
Toplivnik fourth row they are laid from refractory bricks, in its absence, sorted first-class red bricks are used. The fourth row overlaps the cleaning holes and the blower door to form the beginning of the hearth. After laying the fourth row, a grate and an oven are installed.
Masonry of the fourth row of the furnace
Masonry fifth row is not difficult. The brick adjacent to the back of the grate is half cut to form an inclined plane.
Masonry of the fifth row of the stove; 3 - oven.
Before laying sixth row prepare the furnace door, for which strip steel is riveted from above and below, which should be 10 cm longer than the furnace door in both directions.For greater strength, the ends of the strip steel are screwed with oven wire, the ends of which are embedded in the masonry. The door is installed on a clay-sand solution, having previously wrapped the frame of the combustion door with asbestos fiber.
Sixth row masonry
Masonry seventh row fix the base of the combustion door.
Seventh row masonry
Eighth row covers the hot water box.
Eighth row masonry
Ninth row covers the fire door and oven. The top of the oven is protected from burning with a layer of clay mortar 10-12 mm thick. It is advisable to lay this row entirely of refractory bricks.
Masonry of the ninth row
After the end of the masonry of the ninth row, a cast-iron stove is installed above the firebox on a clay-sand mortar. The large burner of the stove is placed above the firebox. Next to the main slab, an additional one is placed, made of steel sheet with dimensions of 400x200x6 mm. After that, angle steel is laid, to which the lower frame of the cooking chamber door is welded. For strength, it is advisable to tie angle steel through special holes in it with oven wire, which is attached to the masonry.
Installing a cast iron plate on the ninth row; 12 - steel sheet 6 mm thick; 13 - angle steel.
Tenth row put from ordinary red brick. On the right side, a window is left for cleaning the channel of the "forward" stroke. Some of the bricks that cover the slab are cut off with a pick before laying, so that in the event of a slab breakage, it can be easily replaced.
Tenth row masonry
Masonry eleventh row does not present difficulties, you only need to follow the rules for bandaging the seams.
Eleventh oven row
Twelfth row overlaps the cleaning window.
The twelfth row of the oven
After laying Tthe thirteenth row on the mud-sand solution, a "straight" stroke valve is installed.
The thirteenth row of the oven; 6 - ventilation valve.
Masonry fourteenth row must correspond to the level of the upper frame of the door to the cooking chamber. Next to the upper door frame, 45x45x800 mm angle steel is installed to the cooking chamber.
Fourteenth row of the oven
Fifteenth row closes the door to the cooking chamber.
Fifteenth row of the oven
Sixteenth row closes the channel of "direct" travel.
Masonry of the sixteenth row of the kitchen stove
Masonry seventeenth row provides a ventilation duct to remove odor and steam from the cooking chamber.
Masonry of the seventeenth row of the kitchen stove
After the end of the clutch eighteenth row above the cooking chamber, four pieces of strip steel 4x45x500 mm in size are installed to overlap the cooking chamber.
Masonry of the eighteenth row of the kitchen stove
Nineteenth row overlaps the cooking chamber. After the end of the masonry of this row, a ventilation valve is installed.
Masonry of the nineteenth row of the kitchen stove; 6 - ventilation valve.
Masonry twentieth and twenty-first rows are not difficult, only the seams should be well tied.
Masonry of the twentieth row of the kitchen stove
Masonry of the twenty-first row
Masonry twentysecond row reduces the size of the chimney, it will be 130 × 130 mm.
Masonry of the twenty-second row
Twenty-third and twenty-fourth ranks put according to the order.
Twenty-third row of the oven
Twenty-fourth row
After laying twenty fifth a number of a smoke damper is installed, which is also an adjustment valve.
Masonry of the twenty-fifth row of the stove; 5 - smoke damper.
Masonry twenty sixth row start the chimney. Chimney laying is not difficult.
Masonry of the final row (excluding the chimney)
After finishing the laying of the furnace, before it is coated, the chimneys are cleaned from the fallen remnants of the solution and rubble through the cleaning holes. The holes for cleaning are then laid with halves of bricks in a clay-sand mortar.
When installing cleaning doors, they are tightly closed, leaks are covered with clay-sand mortar.
After that, the stove can be dried in two ways: by opening the furnace and blower doors and valves, or by small test furnaces. After complete drying, the slab is plastered with a clay-sand mortar, and after drying the plaster, a two-fold whitewashing is performed. In front of the furnace door, a pre-furnace sheet is nailed to the floor.
Do-it-yourself brick cooking stove: step-by-step instructions for masonry + photo
The dacha is a favorite vacation spot for the townspeople, and this is not surprising: it is there that you can take a break from the hustle and bustle, join nature and chat with family and friends. To keep the country house warm and comfortable at any time of the year, you need to think over the heating system in advance. The most economical and convenient option is a wood-burning stove.
Wood-burning stoves for a country house are somewhat different from traditional heating stoves for several reasons:
- The majority of summer residents do not need heating all the time, but only on weekends. Many people go to have a rest at the dacha not only in the summer, but also in the cold season, while they need to quickly heat the house in which the temperature is low. This means that it must quickly heat up itself and warm up the room.
- The dimensions of a country house are often small. For this reason, a stove for a summer residence should be compact in size.
- A summer cottage is not a country estate, and there is nowhere to store large volumes of fuel on it. Therefore, a stove for a summer residence should use firewood sparingly with high efficiency.
- Not all dacha cooperatives have gas, and electricity is expensive. Many summer residents use stoves not only for heating, but also for cooking. The ideal stove should be equipped with a hob.
- A weekend at the dacha is a lot of work and entertainment, and there is often no time to be distracted by the constant laying of firewood. Therefore, many summer residents appreciate the presence in the oven
That is, an ideal stove for a summer cottage is compact, heats up quickly, uses firewood economically, is equipped with a hob and can work in a long burning mode. Is it possible to combine all these qualities in one heating stove?
Varieties
- Wood stoves are divided into two main groups:
- brick;
- metal.
Pros of a metal oven:
- simple construction from available materials;
- lightweight, does not require installation on a foundation;
- you can equip the hob;
- it is not necessary to lay high-quality firewood in the stove, you can heat it with branches, cardboard, burn garbage;
- does not require the installation of a capital chimney, the pipe can be brought out through a wall or window, observing the fire-prevention distances;
- mobile, in the summertime it can be taken out into the street or into the gazebo.
Disadvantages of a potbelly stove:
- it cools down quickly, by morning it will be cold in a heated house;
- the appearance of handmade metal stoves is unlikely to be admired.
- It is possible to extend the heating time by making a long burning stove, however, it should be remembered that its safe operation requires some skills.
Scheme and masonry technology of the little Swede Buslaev
Having considered the features of different types of heating stoves for summer cottages and their photos, you can make a choice that is suitable for specific conditions. The next photo shows a small Swedish stove Buslaev, which has a compact size and is designed specifically for small country houses. It is equipped with an oven located next to the combustion chamber, a cooking chamber with doors, as well as two stoves of different sizes, and even a novice stove-maker can fold it with his own hands.
General view and dimensions are shown in the photo.
To complete the furnace, you will need the following materials:
- solid red brick - about 400 pieces;
- fireclay refractory bricks - about 50 pcs;
- masonry mortar - ordinary clay for laying red bricks and fireclay for laying the combustion chamber;
- grate 20x30 cm;
- a cast-iron cooking stove with burners 70x40 cm;
- door for the combustion chamber 25x20.5 cm;
- door for the cooking chamber 50x39 cm;
- blower door 14x14 cm; sheet metal 3 mm thick for making the oven;
- cast iron tiles 40x25 cm;
- cast iron tiles 40x15 cm;
- gate valve 25x13 cm;
- valve 13x13 cm;
- steel corner 45x45x3 mm 101 cm long - 3 pcs;
- steel strip.
Do-it-yourself technology of masonry "Swede" Buslaev
Rows 1 and 2 - solid red brick masonry. The perimeter is made of solid bricks, observing the dressing. Half bricks are allowed in the middle. A blower door is placed on the second row in accordance with the diagram.
The 3rd row is laid according to the scheme in a half-brick, making openings for the blower doors and cleaning.
4 row - lay out the blower chamber and the base for the oven, which must be welded in advance from sheet iron with a thickness of 3-4 mm. The dimensions of the oven are 50x33x28 mm. In the back of the blower, a brick is placed on the edge. It should protrude to the right and also support the oven. Behind it is another brick on the edge to support the hearth of the furnace. On the left, a brick, placed on an edge, will support the left side of the oven. After laying 4 rows, install the oven on a fireclay solution, laying a sheet of steel with a thickness of 1.5-2 mm to protect it from burning out.
5 row - spread under the firebox, put a grate. The bricks forming the bottom should have a slope of 2 cm towards the grating. A gap of 1 cm is left between the grating and the brick for its expansion when heated. They put the door of the combustion chamber, securing it with annealed wire in the masonry.
6 row - isolate the left side of the oven from the fuel chamber with fireclay bricks and additionally cover the oven on both sides with roofing iron.
7, 8 and 9 rows - laid out according to the scheme, forming a combustion chamber and isolating the oven from it. The top of the oven is coated with chamotte clay. The walls of the smoke channel in the rear right corner are rounded to improve draft.
In the 10th row, put a hob and lay the space behind it. Fix the doors of the oven and firebox.
Starting from the 11th row, the brick is placed on the edge. They lay out the root walls, put the door of the cooking chamber. Install a cleaning door over the rounded channel.
From 12 to 15 rows, the walls of the cooking chamber are laid and the smoke channels are laid out of bricks on the edge. To support the hanging partitions of the smoke channels, steel strips are installed in them. Cleaners are left on both sides of the oven.
In the 14th row, a steel corner and a strip are placed on the partitions to support the arch of the cooking chamber. 15 row - lay out the arch with a brick flat.
From 16 to 19 rows, they continue laying smoke channels and perform stoves.
17th row - install the top of a small stove made of a sheet of iron.
18 row - leave cleaning in front of the oven.
In row 19, only hanging partitions remain.
Starting from the 20th row, laying again begins flat. In accordance with the diagram, a valve is installed.
In the 20th row, they begin to make a stepped cornice, moving the brick 3 cm to the outside along the perimeter.
In the 21st row, the second stage of the cornice is made and a steel strip and a corner are installed over the large niche-stove, and the small one is covered with a brick.
In the 22nd row, they also overlap a large stove, put the top of the stove and put a view. From the 23rd row, the laying of the pipe begins.
A detailed diagram of the laying of a Swedish stove with three furnace modes, which can be easily done with your own hands, is shown in the video.
A brick oven is a versatile option, it allows you to cook and reheat food, dry clothes and generously share heat. With such a stove, rest in the country will become comfortable and carefree, and work in the garden will always be a joy.