Where to make a compost pit. Compost pit: manufacturing and operating rules

The better the quality of the soil, the richer the crop grown on this land will be. But it so happens that the initial data is not very good, and you have to fertilize the soil. For this, you can use various fertilizers, but it is best to make a compost pit, which will become a source of environmentally friendly material. Consider how a compost pit should be made with your own hands: manufacturing options and materials suitable for this purpose.

In order to understand how to properly make a compost pit, you first need to figure out what it is used for. Typically, a compost pit is used to dispose of organic waste, which, as a result of the decay process, turns into organic fertilizer. There are many design options and each owner can only choose the most suitable option for himself.

The compost heap does an excellent job with the disposal of mowed grass and fallen leaves. Under the influence of time, moisture and microorganisms, it all turns into a fertilizer that can be used to grow all types of crops, both in gardens and in the vegetable garden.

Making a compost pile of organic fertilizers with your own hands is not difficult at all, especially since there are many ideas for independent implementation that can be used as a basis. You can make your own compost pit using pallets, which are usually used for transporting and storing building materials. They can be bought at a fairly low price, or it is quite possible, simply to find them on your own site.

How to make a compost pit in the country: choosing a location

When talking about arranging a compost heap, one cannot but mention the importance of its correct location. First of all, the structure must be sufficiently removed from residential buildings. In addition, the place of its installation should be well blown by the wind in order to avoid stagnant air and the concentration of unpleasant odors emanating from it. In addition, access to the compost must be provided so that the process of adding raw materials or removing finished fertilizers is as comfortable as possible.

Helpful advice! In order for the decay process to proceed faster, it is recommended to periodically stir the layers inside the heap. Therefore, even at the stage of planning and arrangement, it is worth considering how this can be done.

In addition, the following selection criteria must be considered for the selection of a site suitable for the compost pit:

• the selected location should be located at a sufficiently large distance from any source of drinking water, for example, a well or a well. The distance between these objects must be at least 25 m;
• if the site is not evenly located, but under a slope, then a compost pit should be made below the water level (preferably at the lowest point of the site). This will prevent the ingress of decay effluents and clean water;
• in advance, it is worth asking about the most frequent direction of the wind, since the pit often becomes a source of a rather strong and unpleasant odor, and can cause discomfort to both you and your neighbors;
• it is worth taking care that there is not only a free approach to the pit, but also enough space to be able to bring in waste or remove the finished compost with a wheelbarrow.

Helpful advice! It is advisable to choose a shaded place for the compost pit, since the sun's rays negatively affect the decay process, significantly slowing down the composting process.

What you can and cannot put in the compost pit

In order for the fertilizer obtained as a result of rotting to be of high quality and bring benefits to the plants, not harm, each summer resident needs to familiarize himself with the list of those products that may or may not be added to compost in advance. So, great for composting:

• grass, weeds, leaves, hay, straw, etc .;
• berries, fruits and any cleaning from them (raw);
• waste from wood products that have not been dyed;
• shredded paper products (napkins, bags, cardboard);
• waste from making tea, coffee or cereals;
• branches and roots of trees after chopping;
• needles;
• herbivore manure (only two years old);
• wood ash.

Important! The percentage of cleanings from products such as potatoes and tomatoes in the compost should not exceed 15-20%.

• any plants that have been affected by pests;
• plants affected by diseases such as powdery mildew, late blight, etc.;
• pet excrement, as it can be contaminated with helminth eggs;
• bones and leftovers from meat products. They will provoke an extremely unpleasant odor, and will also become food for rats;
• inorganic waste - plastic, rubber, synthetic fabrics and metal;
• plants that have been treated with herbicides;
• the remains of cabbage, the rotting of which provokes an extremely strong and unpleasant odor.

As for composting weeds, experts recommend putting them in a separate heap, which is covered with a film on top. So, the risk that the plants will take root again is excluded and you can count on their death with one hundred percent probability.

If you add weeds to a common heap, then you often have to deal with the fact that perennial plants take root, especially if, as a result of regular watering or rains, the humidity is high enough.

Important! To accelerate the process of decay of waste, it is recommended to preliminarily subject them to shredding. This is especially true for items such as branches, roots and paper products.

Having figured out what you can put in the compost pit, and what you can't, you just have to familiarize yourself with the rules for caring for waste in order to ensure that they decompose as efficiently as possible. Moreover, the duration of the period during which the compost will be formed directly depends on the correctness of the care carried out:

• moisture is the most important indicator that affects waste decay and compost formation. In order to maintain the desired level, it is recommended to periodically water the heap from a watering can. At the same time, it is important that in the end it turns out wet, but not wet, since an abundance of water will negatively affect the viability and activity of bacteria;
• once a month, you need to thoroughly stir the pile, thus ensuring oxygen access. This allows the waste to burn out rather than rot. At the same time, if there is no opportunity to completely dig everything up, you can use the pitchfork and pierce the bunch in as many places as possible;
• to accelerate the maturation process of compost requires the addition of nitrogen, which is found in large quantities in green parts of plants, as well as in slurry.

The formation of high-quality compost usually takes 1-1.5 years. During this time, almost any waste and residues will fully decompose. The readiness of the compost can be recognized visually and by smell. The finished mixture is a crumbly brown mass and has the smell of forest earth.

Compost pit: what it is and what it is for

The issue of using compost is one of the most popular. Indeed, not every summer resident knows how and why to use the resulting mixture, and how great is its benefit. In fact, it is possible to fertilize the soil with compost for almost any plant. Cucumbers, peppers, zucchini and pumpkin respond best to such feeding. The result can be seen already in the coming harvest season - the fruits grow large, have a bright and rich color, taste and aroma are well expressed.

But there are also plants for which compost is not so useful. For example, root vegetables, tomatoes, melons and watermelons should not be fertilized abundantly in this way, since this leads to the fact that the yield decreases, and the amount of green mass, on the contrary, increases.

Strawberry reacts well to compost, especially if you first cut it "at the root" and overlay it with a semi-decomposed composition. Then all this needs to be watered, and all that remains is to wait for new fresh foliage, as well as a bountiful harvest next season.

DIY compost pit: manufacturing options and design requirements

In order to properly build a compost pit, you need to understand how the compost heap should be arranged. There are many DIY options, but first of all, you should pay attention to the fact that it should consist of three parts. In this case, it is necessary to install 8 support posts, each of which must be treated with a protective agent.

Helpful advice! Machine oil, fuel oil or even tar can be used as a protective composition for the posts.

As a fence on one of the sides, you can use a fence canvas, and for the rest, boards are better suited. Partitions are constructed from them, in which holes for ventilation are necessarily left. This contributes to the course of the decay process. Also, a door must be installed that allows access to the compost.

Making a compost pit in the country with your own hands involves ensuring the proper level of ventilation and at the same time protecting the contents from precipitation. So that the compost heap does not turn into a swamp, it must be covered with a special cover of a suitable size during precipitation. And if the weather conditions are not too harsh, then it is quite acceptable to use plastic wrap for this purpose.

Another option is to use building pallets that are disassembled beforehand. Using a circular machine, the boards can be divided into individual elements, and then assembled from them into a suitable structure. In this case, it is better to fasten the boards vertically. The front board can be fixed with adhesive. To give such a structure stability, it is necessary to use the building level and trim the lower planks.

It is also important that the height of the walls of a homemade composter is such that it is convenient for a person of any height to add, stir up and remove compost.

Interesting! You can pay attention to the construction of compost pits made using Finnish technology. In this case, some design features are of interest, for example, when you extract humus from one compartment, it is automatically filled with raw materials from the adjacent one.

DIY compost pit: manufacturing options, photo examples

The type of compost pit is determined based on several factors. One of them is the installation method. Consider all the existing options:

• allocation of a certain place for organizing a compost pit. In this case, a foundation pit is initially prepared, which is very similar to a well, but at the same time has a shallower depth. The walls of the pit are additionally strengthened to prevent soil shattering and are sheathed with an indent of 20-25 cm from the bottom. This distance is necessary in order to provide the microorganism with free access to waste;
• another option is to install a special container in the garden area for collecting waste and processing it into compost. This method allows you to get the finished product at any time. This design is based on a pit with a formwork, as well as a special box made of boards. When implementing this option, it is extremely important to pay due attention to the organization of ventilation;
• a compost pile with your own hands is the easiest way to solve the problem. To do this, it is enough to make a substrate consisting of sand, gravel and dry grass. Waste is simply stacked on top, which over time will themselves begin to rot.

Related article:

Detailed technology for the construction of structures: soil preparation, fabrication of the frame, its installation and filling.

You can make a do-it-yourself compost bin using many different technologies and instructions. The proposed designs can be distinguished by materials that are required for work, dimensions, properties and ease of use.

Helpful advice! Regardless of the type of structure chosen, before starting to lay the raw materials inside the structure, it is necessary to thoroughly loosen the bottom and install the ventilation holes.

DIY compost bin: manufacturing options and instructions

Before making a compost pit with your own hands, it is advisable to consider as many options and designs as possible that can be used for this purpose. Let's take a closer look at the instructions for making the most popular boxes made from various materials.

Garden compost bin: installation and operation features

A garden composter may well be presented as a large box, divided into several sections. Usually two or three compartments are made, but experts strongly recommend stopping at the option with three sections, since each of them has its own purpose: the first serves for laying waste, the second is intended for the ripening of waste, and the third contains ready-made compost.

Depending on the individual wishes of the owner, the composter can be stationary or mobile (move on wheels). In this case, the recommended height of the box should not exceed 1 meter, and the size of each section should be about 1-1.5 meters.

Important! All wooden elements must be treated with a special protective compound designed to provide the material with reliable protection against harmful insects, as well as moisture.

To make a compost box with your own hands, you need to adhere to the following procedure:

1. 8 wooden blocks are dug into the ground;
2. With the help of boards, also pre-opened with a protective compound, partitions are erected. To do this, they are attached to the supports at some distance from each other.
3. In the front, two compartments should be sheathed only to the middle, and only one bottom board is nailed to the third. Doors are mounted on the first two from above.
4. The back and end parts are fully sheathed.
5. The entire structure is covered with two layers of moisture resistant paint.
6. Finally, handles, latches, etc. are attached.

At the bottom of such a box, drainage must be laid, which can consist, for example, of dry tree branches. Immediately after that, you can go directly to the laying of waste inside the structure.

How to make a compost pit in the country using wooden planks

A compost pit is an excellent solution, if necessary, not to spoil the appearance of the site with the appearance of a heap of waste. Formation of fertilizer in such a structure takes much longer, and in order for the process to proceed as correctly and efficiently as possible, it is important to take care of the correct arrangement in advance and ensure that the required amount of oxygen is available.

The order of work:

1. First of all, it is necessary to dig a compost pit, the width of which will be 1.5 m, the length of 2 m, and the depth of about 1 meter.
2. In the corners, you need to dig in wooden blocks, observing an indent from the walls of 20 cm on each side.
3. With a step of 5 cm, boards are attached to these posts.
4. The resulting box is divided into two parts using a wooden shield.

The bottom of the compost pit is filled with a ten centimeter layer of bark, twigs and straw. Such a mixture will take on the role of drainage, which will allow to remove excess moisture and additionally ventilate the raw material.

Initially, only one of the compartments should be filled with waste. Then, when one is half full, the compost must be transferred to the second compartment. This procedure will enrich it with oxygen as much as possible.

Important! The bottom and sides of the composter do not need to be covered with anything, so that earthworms can freely get inside, which take an active part in the waste recycling process.

How to make a slate compost bin

Slate is a durable material that is great for creating structures for collecting and recycling organic waste into compost. The procedure for creating a suitable structure consists of several stages:

• choosing a suitable place and taking measurements in order to determine the appropriate size of the pit;
• according to the marks, a not too large depression is being dug, in the corners of which supports are installed, which can be used as boards or metal pipes;
• slate sheets are installed along the perimeter of the pit;
• using the same sheets, the resulting container is divided into several parts (two or three).

The use of such a design is carried out according to all the same recommendations that are given for compost pits made of wood.

How to make a compost pit out of concrete in the country

If you devote a little more time and attention to the process of arranging the compost pit, then as a result, it can serve several decades without problems. To do this, it is enough to concrete it. This can be done as follows:

• you need to dig a hole about 80 cm deep, 2 m wide and 3 m long;
• make formwork inside the pit;
• then you need to prepare a solution consisting of sand, gravel and cement. To do this, pour 5 liters of water into a bucket and add 5 kg of sand and cement to it so that the ratio of dry components is 3: 1;
• the resulting solution is poured into the formwork;
• using wooden boards and a mesh-netting (a metal frame is also suitable), a cover is constructed for the pit.

It is very important that in the case of using boards for mounting the cover, there is a distance between the elements, which is necessary for proper ventilation.

Compost pit according to Finnish technology: the secrets of installation

The main requirement for structures made using Finnish technology is compliance with certain dimensions. The height and width of the box must necessarily be the same and be 1 m. This is extremely important, since the raw material will simply dry up into a smaller box, turning not into compost, but into dust. Large sizes are unacceptable for another reason - in this case, there is a risk of burning the contents from too high a temperature.

For the manufacture of such a structure, it is best to use wood. Slate in this case is not a very suitable option, since structures made from it are characterized by a longer period of waste decomposition. Again, a cheap and at the same time quite convenient option is a Finnish compost pit made of pallets.

Algorithm for assembling a compost pit using Finnish technology:

1. The frame of the box of the required size is assembled from wood pre-treated with antiseptic agents.
2. Then the finished frame is sheathed with boards. Boards are tightly placed only on the partitions that separate the compartments. On the side walls, the boards should be spaced with an indent of 1 cm.
3. The back wall of the structure is also sewn up with boards at a distance of 1 cm.
4. The bottom of the box is covered using a croaker. It is also important to maintain some distance between the elements so that excess liquid can be efficiently drained away.
5. In the lower part of the front wall of the structure, a small door is equipped, the height of which is usually 30 cm. It is fastened with ordinary door hinges.
6. The roof of the structure is made gable, with one of the slopes attached to the hinges so that it simultaneously acts as a door, making it possible to fill in the waste.

Interesting! In one box, the size of which is 1 × 1 m, you can prepare the amount of compost sufficient to fertilize a plot of land of 5-7 acres.

Compost pit-dry closet: what is it?

Another special type of compost pit is a dry closet, which is also capable of converting human waste products into compost. It is a structure consisting of two containers, each with a volume of 80 liters.

The use of this type of dry closet is as follows: after visiting the toilet, you need to turn a special handle, which is responsible for supplying a portion of a special mixture consisting of peat and sawdust. Thanks to this mechanism, the mixture is evenly distributed and falls asleep inside the waste.

It is quite possible to use such a composter-dry closet to dispose of not too much food waste, simply by throwing it inside and filling it with a dry mixture. When the first container is completely full, it must be pushed aside and the second one installed in place, which can be used in the same way. At this time, the first container will contain the compost mixture, completely ready for use.

Important! The compost obtained in such a composter will be very concentrated. This must be taken into account, and before adding it to the soil, you need to dilute the mixture with soil, sand or peat.

Criteria for choosing a ready-made composter for a summer residence

At the same time, an increasing number of owners of suburban areas are trying to move away from the use of homemade structures, preferring purchased models. Let's consider what advantages and disadvantages the ready-made designs have, and what parameters you need to pay special attention to before making a purchase.

In most cases, preference is given to simple and convenient composters that are easy to assemble and operate on their own. But since the number of offers on the modern market is extremely large, it can be really difficult to independently determine the most suitable option. As a guideline, experts recommend using certain criteria, since the models can be:

• collapsible or one-piece;
• with temperature sensor;
• with a special device that allows you to loosen the contents;
• with a net instead of the bottom, which provides protection from rodents;
• of various shapes and sizes.

Composters also differ in the material used for their manufacture. So, the most popular today is plastic, since it has a low weight, which allows it to be moved around the site without problems, and its service life is extremely long. If the structure is planned as stationary, then you can also consider the option of purchasing a metal composter. Wooden models can also be found on sale, but they are not very common due to their short service life and exposure to external factors.

How to choose and buy a compost pit: an overview of the most popular brands and models

As examples, consider a few composters that are the most popular and have received a lot of positive feedback from users.

L&T Globe composter: features and characteristics

This model is highly valued by permanent residents of country houses, since it can be used throughout the year, and not every product can boast of this. The L&T Globe was developed by Finnish specialists who took into account the harsh weather conditions of the local climate. This allows the composter to function without problems even in the harshest winters.

Another advantage of this model is the absence of small and heavy parts, so it is quite easy to operate the device. The working volume of the container is 310 liters, and durable polyethylene was used as a material for the manufacture. In order for the system to function even in the cold season, a 15 mm layer of thermal insulation was provided, which allows you to maintain an optimal temperature inside.

Due to the low height of this composter, a person of absolutely any height can fill and empty it. Moreover, for even more comfort, a removable upper part is provided in the design.

Thus, all these design features create the most favorable environment for efficient composting of waste. The microclimate that is maintained inside the container promotes the growth and development of microorganisms capable of recycling waste. The developers have not forgotten about the ventilation system, which is presented in the form of drainage holes in the bottom of the composter.

Important! The ventilation system of this model can be used in two modes: summer / winter. It is important to carry out the switching in a timely manner using a specially provided shutter.

Bulbeo composter: features and benefits

This model is the development of Italian specialists, which exists on the domestic markets in two modifications, differing in size (700 and 900 liters). Initially, this model was intended exclusively for processing plant waste, but, as practice shows, it copes well with the composting of other organic waste.

This composter belongs to collapsible models and consists of separate parts, which can be easily assembled and, if necessary, disassembled again. This allows you to rearrange the container from one place to another and even transport it. Moreover, when disassembled, this design takes up very little space and can easily fit in the trunk of an ordinary passenger car.

Among the main advantages of this choice are noted:

• the ability to get free access to the structure from six sides;
• it is convenient to take out the finished compost thanks to the hinged doors;
• on the site, this model looks quite aesthetically pleasing, since it resembles a blooming bud in shape;
• discreet dark green color allows you to organically fit the structure into any landscape design.

Durable plastic is used as a material for this model, which provides reliable protection of the contents from wind and strong temperature extremes. According to the developers, the rounded shape of the walls contributes to the maturation of the compost.

Of course, there are vents available to ensure that the required amount of oxygen is available. Anyone can easily assemble this model, because this does not require any tools or additional fasteners. The finished structure weighs only 19 kg and its height is 885 mm.

Compost pit products: features and benefits of using

Having figured out how to make a compost heap, many expect that they will soon be able to use the nutrient fertilizer made in it. But the reality is that the natural maturation of compost can take up to 2 years. Of course, you can just be patient and wait. But you can go the other way, buying a special tool that promotes the maturation of compost and accelerates this process.

Interesting! The issue of using excipients is especially relevant for those regions of the country where the warm period is short. If the warm weather lasts only 2-3 months, then the maturation period of the compost has to be artificially reduced.

So, there are several drugs that are well suited for this purpose and are recommended not only by specialists, but also by real users. They all have different names, but, in general, their principle of operation is the same. As an example, consider the Tamir remedy.

Tamir is an extremely complex preparation, which includes a whole complex of microorganisms, which in the natural environment are responsible for ensuring the decomposition of organic waste and waste. Due to the high concentration of these bacteria, the composting process occurs several times faster, and after 2-3 weeks full maturation occurs.

It should be noted that the compost obtained in this way is not completely decomposed waste and is somewhat different from the usual consistency. But its final decomposition will take place directly in the soil, which will bring even greater benefits to the plants.

Important! It is believed that compost obtained as a result of exposure to auxiliary preparations, such as fertilizer, is many times more useful than that obtained naturally. Therefore, answering the common question whether it is possible to use means for compost pits, the answer is unequivocal - it is not only possible, but even necessary.

All means of this type are used according to the following technology:

• if the pile has not yet been formed, then the drug is added on top of each new layer, after which it is poured over with water;
• in the already finished heap, you need to make a recess to the full height, into which the drug and water are added.

Other ways to speed up the maturation of the compost heap

In addition to complex preparations, you can use other ways to stimulate the processing of organic waste and the maturation of compost in the pit. Let's consider each of them in more detail:

• the use of rotted manure, which is quite capable of replacing biochemical preparations intended for composting. At the same time, it is forbidden to use fresh manure, since it can become a source of not only helminth eggs, but also weed seeds, pathogens, etc .;
• a solution made from common yeast. To prepare it, you need 1 liter of water and about 1 tablespoon of dry yeast. To this is added 200 grams of sugar (1 cup). This solution is poured into the recesses made in the compost heap;
• herbal infusion. To improve the effect, it is mixed with chicken manure or slurry in a ratio of 5: 2. It is important to know that the amount of nitrogen contained in fresh poultry manure is much higher than in manure, which means that the ratio should be different.

Helpful advice! In order for bird droppings to enter the compost heap in a natural way, you can install a feeder above it. This will greatly facilitate and speed up the process.

The methods of accelerating maturation also include artificial humidification of raw materials, its tedding and other measures designed to create the most comfortable microclimate for composting.

How to arrange a compost pit in the country with your own hands

Whichever structure is chosen for composting, it is unlikely that its appearance will be attractive enough in the end. Most likely, no one will want to look at the compost pit, so it will be useful to think about how you can use the original design to improve its appearance.

The problem of masking the compost pit is especially relevant for small plots, since almost the entire territory is in plain sight. Although it happens that even for spacious areas, the owners use different design strategies to give the compost pit a more attractive look. So, in order to hide such an object, you can use:

• camouflage with plants and hedges;
• artificial decoration and stationary fences.

Work related to the manufacture of artificial fences must be carried out in an open area located at some distance from the location of the compost pit. This is necessary in order to make it more convenient to work and to be able to move freely without being subject to discomfort from the smell exuded by the heap.

The main requirement for such a fence is that it must hide the entire site from the eyes of guests and owners. That is, the compost heap should be completely hidden behind it, and the appearance of the fence should be as attractive as possible and in harmony with the environment.

It is much longer and to some extent more difficult to create hedges for this purpose. But they look much more natural and elegant. The main thing is to pay attention to the choice of a suitable plant, so that in the end the hedge is not too bulky and lush, and does not break the general structure of the site.

Helpful advice! You can use light translucent screens entwined with vines as a fence. They do an excellent job with the task, and at the same time do not take up much space, so they are quite suitable for both large and small areas.

The best ideas for decorating a silo pit

Other elements, for example, special screens or screens, can be used to mask the place where the compost heap is located. Bamboo fences have proven to be excellent. Plants also look good if you carefully plant them in a row.

At the same time, it is strictly forbidden to equip a compost pit directly under fruit trees, as this can lead to their death. There must be some distance between the compost and the plants.

The most popular are the following design methods:

• fruit trees and berry bushes planted in a row;
• potted gardens placed on several levels to hide the entire structure;
• installation of a small architecture object: a gazebo or a fenced barbecue (of course, in this case, you should take care that the unpleasant smell of rotting waste does not interfere);
• flower beds with tall plants;
• support wall.

Separately, it is worth noting the masking of compost heaps in the event that a plastic container was used for them. In this case, it is not at all necessary to completely mask it. You can use it as a decoration of the site, painting it in a bright color and planting beautiful flowers around. You can draw any drawing on such a container, thus giving it originality.

The easiest way is to work with small compost pits that can be hidden with an abundance of flowers or even shrubs. By the way, the compost yard is a great place to experiment with growing new varieties of annuals.

You can clearly see how composters for summer cottages are made and designed with your own hands by looking at training lessons and detailed instructions. You just need to decide which design is best suited in a particular case, as well as take into account your own individual requirements and wishes. Otherwise, there will be no problems, since there are as many options for do-it-yourself compost pits as there are ready-made models.

How to make a compost pit with your own hands: video instruction

Compost pit is the simplest design that will allow you to prepare fertilizer from compost in your country house.

They enrich the soil, allowing you to harvest more crops. But to prepare fertilizer, you need a place for its production - a pit / box.

A compost bin is much more difficult to make than digging a hole. A do-it-yourself compost pit is prepared in just one day, and it lasts for years.

Humus as a result of composting is a very valuable mineral fertilizer.

Basic rules and nuances

Although the arrangement of the pit is extremely simple, this process has a lot of nuances that must be observed both during the construction and during the operation of the pit in order to obtain fertilizer:

• The size of the pit is selected taking into account the garbage that will accumulate over 2 years + the garbage that will constantly rot in the country;
• If the pit construction is closed, then the compost smell should not penetrate outside;
• The process of lifting compost humus from the pit should be simple;
• The pit can be covered and open;
• The pit can be built with a cover for constant air access;
• It is better to dig a hole in the area behind the yard so that it does not spoil the landscape;
• If the pit is concreted, then earthworms should be placed in the compost so that they accelerate its "ripening";
• The pit must be equipped so that direct sunlight does not fall on it, otherwise the compost will dry out;
• Sheets of metal or slate cannot be laid on the bottom of the pit, but the walls can even be made of tires;
• If you pour soapy water into the pit, then you moisten the compost and enrich it with phosphorus, sulfur and ammonia groups, from which bacteria extract compost nitrogen;
• The distance from the pit to the well should be as large as possible. So you will protect underground waters;
• It takes from several months (with the participation of special additives) to 2 years to make fertilizer from compost! So it is better to do either two pits, or one for 2 sections;
• A hole near fruit trees in the country - their certain death;
• A concrete pit is preferable to simply dug;
• If you don't know how to mix concrete, you can easily put the wall of the compost pit on the sides of the brick.
• The minimum dimensions of the compost pit: 1.5 x 3 meters, depth - up to 1 meter;
• The compost will need to be constantly shoveling / sorting out with a pitchfork, so the pit should not be completely deep;
• It is advisable to equip two pits: the compost matures slowly, while one pit is being prepared for the coming season, you are preparing the second compost for the season in a year;
• Please note that if the pit is open and the wind blows, the compost smell will "kill" any appetite, both in your country house and in your neighbors;
• Always keep track of the ingredients you compost. Not all of them are useful for crafting! They will be discussed separately at the end of the article.

Features of the pit device

The device of the compost pit has its own nuances that must be taken into account when creating it. Compost loves good moisture and looseness to enrich it with oxygen, which is extremely important not just for decay, but for the decomposition of organic matter into minerals.

The compost pile should be watered regularly and covered or covered with plastic wrap to create a greenhouse effect in the pit and compost.

Use a pitchfork to loosen the compost, or alternate between brown and green materials when laying a hole (these will be discussed separately).

The device of the compost pit can be different, but if we take into account the standard 6 acres and calculate the approximate need for organic matter for the soil, then we get the following dimensions: width up to 1.5 m, length - 2 m, and height - maximum 1.5 m.

We will not consider options for a compost bin, for which such a height is always justified, but we will find out why such a depth is needed.

If we do not use special microorganisms when preparing compost, then "on our own" the organic matter on the site will decompose in about 2 years.

For this reason, it is illogical to make a small compost pit, plus one. Two sections - at least!

In one pit, the laying of the year before last is already "reaching", and in the other, compost is being prepared for the next year. You can also use barrels instead of the second pit.

It is important to note! Many believe that they have dug a hole and are done. But how to loosen compost ?!

In the dimensions indicated above, the height of 1.5 meters is measured as follows: 0.5 m of the pit itself and 1 meter of the fence, which will hold the compost.

This forces us to build a fence, but such a pit is considered the most effective.

In any case, you can dig a large hole and prepare compost in it, but think about how you can make your work of loosening easier.

You can build a fence from wooden pallets or tires.

Pit manufacturing options

This section provides examples of technologies on how to properly make a compost pit in a suburban area.

Method 1 - compost in bulk, without a pit and a box:

• Choose a secluded place in the far corner of the yard in the country, where there are no plantings;
• As soon as organic waste appears, immediately put it in compost;
• Alternate the bookmarks in layers: added waste from the kitchen, immediately reported on top of grass / manure, etc.;
• As soon as the compost pile grows a full meter in height, make several holes right in it and fill in the compost preparation;
• Cover the compost with foil on all sides so that there is a constant high temperature and humidity inside;
• Water the compost once a week with water and after 3 months the humus will be ready!

• Do not lay any film, slate, tires, pallets, and even less metal under the compost! Moisture from the soil will not be able to rise, and humus is not washed out, unlike other mineral fertilizers;
• If it rains frequently in your area, then cover the pile with a film, and to prevent "leaks" pour a small layer of peat under the bottom of the compost;
• Once a month, worms can be added to the growing compost heap to loosen it and enrich it with oxygen.

Method 2 - simple pit:

• We choose a place in the far corner, where there are no trees / bushes;
• We dig a hole, 50 cm deep and 1 m wide;
• We put straw, dry grass, small branches, bark on the bottom;
• Having thrown away household waste, we immediately cover it with a layer of grass so that flies do not get divorced;
• Every waste should be covered with grass - this is how we alternate brown and green materials.

• Do not throw everything unnecessary into the compost - this is still not a cesspool;
• If the pit is not in the shade, then the compost should be regularly watered;
• If the pit is in the shade, then for ripening you need to constantly cover the compost with foil.

The "sandbox" is the same compost pit, only surrounded by a tree (as an option, with the help of slate, rubber tires, metal sheets).

Method 3 - sandbox:

• We remove the sod around the entire perimeter of the future compost pit to a shallow depth (30-40 cm);
• If the sides are wooden, then we nail / bury pegs along the edges of the bare area;
• We nail the boards to the bearing pegs, leaving 2 cm of gap between them;
• Thus, the construction is average between the pit and the box. The advantage of this design is that it is easy to turn over the contents, since it is at a shallow depth;
• If desired, several wooden pallets can be used as a ready-made substitute for stakes.

• Pour the plant residues without tamping, otherwise you will get silage.
• Instead of wooden stakes and planks, you can use vertically hammered slate sheets.
• In hot weather, water the compost constantly. Cover the top of the pile with a lid / plywood / plastic wrap.

Method 4 - a concrete pit.

Such a compost pit always consists of at least 3 compartments: one for old compost, and the second for constant replenishment.

The pit is supplied with a cover for a set of fertilizer and tedding.

The construction process is as follows:

• We measure the plot in the far corner of the plot measuring 2x3 m and make the markings;
• On the marked area, we evenly remove the sod, but do not throw it away - it will still come in handy;
• We dig a hole 0.8 m deep;
• We build the formwork and pour concrete (10 cm thick).

How to prepare the solution:

• Pour gravel into two 10-liter buckets and shake well;
• Add water with a measuring container. If the bucket contains 5 liters of water, then the voidness of the gravel is exactly 50% (a 2 to 1 ratio is required);
• Add 10 liters of river sand.

Stir the solution.

Attention! If the water is more than prescribed, then the concrete will be in bubbles. The key to good concrete is the ability to mix thoroughly!

The concrete will dry in 2-3 days and the compost components can be poured into the finished pit.

Instead of concrete, you can use barrels buried directly in the ground, as a result of which they will be both a pit and a protection at the same time, as well as a brickwork or a stack of tires (the sides need to be sawed off).

There is another popular option - the creation of a compost bin using Finnish technology, but it requires significantly more time and effort.

How to prepare compost?

First you need to know what you can and cannot put in the compost heap.

• Fruits, vegetables, cereals, berries in any form;
• Ash, leaves, straw, grass, branches, bark;
• Any needles;
• Shredded paper, napkins, cardboard;
• Sawdust, wood shavings and dust;
• Manure, bird droppings.

• Any bones;
• Excrement from carnivores (cats, dogs);
• Tomato and potato tops;
• Inorganic: plastic, rubber, iron, synthetics;
• Any organic matter that has been treated with insecticides, herbicides.

The balance of the mixture in the composter is the key to successful ripening, therefore, you need to correctly combine green material (bird droppings, fruits, vegetables, peelings, coffee grounds and tea leaves, fresh weeds) and brown (fallen leaves, sawdust, straw, hay, bark, domestic hair animals).

Any plant develops and bears fruit better in fertilized soil. One of the most affordable and widespread fertilizers for a vegetable garden and garden is compost. In our article, we will tell you about what ingredients can be used to compost compost, how to prepare compost at home or in the garden, what crops this fertilizer is used for, whether it is worth buying ready-made compost and which of the proposed compositions to prefer.

What is compost

Compost (Latin Compositus - compound) Is a fertilizer that is formed during the decomposition of organic substances under the influence of microorganisms. Composting is a natural method of disposal and recycling of organic waste that improves soil structure and saturates poor or depleted soil with nutrients that plants need. But you should not confuse garden compost with those potting mixes that are sold under this name in garden centers and pavilions. If you compost yourself, this best organic fertilizer will cost you free. There are many composting recipes, and we will introduce you to some of them.

What can and cannot be put in compost?

Can:

• raw cereals, fruits, vegetables and their peels and trimmings;
• sunflower stalks, corn stalks, vegetable and melon tops, dry leaves, hay cut;
• sleeping tea and coffee grounds;
• leftover food;
• thin branches and shoots, untreated and unpainted wood, including sawdust and chips;
• straw, hulls from seeds, nutshells;
• bird droppings and fresh herbivore manure;
• paper - napkins, packing cardboard, xerox paper and shredded newspapers;
• peat;
• shredded natural fabrics - flax, cotton, wool, silk, hemp and linen bonfire;
• down and feathers of birds, animal hair.

It is forbidden:

• large and hard meat bones;
• ash from a stove or fireplace;
• synthetic materials and fabrics;
• peel from citrus plants;
• perennial rhizome weeds, especially in flowering or seeded form;
• plant residues affected by diseases or treated with herbicides;
• insect pests and their larvae.

Experts still have no consensus about whether it is possible to add human and carnivorous faeces to compost, as well as whether it is possible to add milk, fat, meat and fish residues to the compost.

The process of converting grass, food and household waste into organic fertilizer is conventionally divided into three parts:

• decomposition: at this stage, the waste heats up inside the heap, changes its structure and is enriched with useful substances. As a result of the transformation, beneficial microorganisms, fungi, earthworms appear in the compost, which contribute to the acceleration of the processing of the mass into fertilizer.
• humus formation: at this stage, it is important to ensure aeration of the pile, since without oxygen, microorganisms that organize and carry out the process of compost maturation can die. To provide air access, mix the mass with a pitchfork or a shovel;
• mineralization: at the stage of mineralization, decomposition of nitrogenous compounds occurs, and humus passes into mineral forms. The process reaches its maximum value after a year of compost aging.

Why is compost good for you?

Firstly, it is one of the best mineral fertilizers, filling the soil with a huge amount of important microelements.

Secondly, it is the cheapest means for structuring the soil, which is carried out by increasing moisture conservation.

Thirdly, compost is convenient to use as a mulch that slows down the evaporation of moisture from the soil and suppresses the growth of weeds.

Fourth, you no longer have to remove from the site or incinerate organic waste, since it can be put in a compost pit and turned into an excellent fertilizer.

How to make compost with your own hands

How to make compost in the country

There are two ways to prepare compost - fast and slow, otherwise known as cold and hot. But first, let's decide on the compost container and the location of this container in the garden. It is best to build a box from wooden planks or any boards that have not come into contact with toxic materials - stain, varnish, paint and the like. If you want a box to serve you for years, make it out of pine planks - it will not cost you much. Knock off the four walls, respecting the gaps between the collecting strips - these slots will serve to aerate the compost.

It is better to place the box (pile) on a hill so that it does not wash away with water, and away from the garden, otherwise the roots of all plants will change direction and stretch towards the pile with compost. Choose a location, level the surface, dig in four supports and nail three walls to them. It is better to make the fourth wall removable or opening, so that it is convenient for you to stir up the compost or take it out for mulching the beds. It is better to concrete the bottom of the box, or you can cover it with thick plastic wrap or old linoleum.

If you don't feel like fiddling with hammering boards together, you can purchase a ready-made plastic or metal composter in the store - a compost container with a lid, the main purpose of which is to prevent the compost from crumbling. The advantage of such containers is that it is possible to add protein waste to them - meat, fish, milk, since they are tightly closed with a lid and rodents do not enter them. In addition, they retain heat well and can be moved around. And the disadvantage of industrial composters is that they do not receive air. If you are not constrained in funds, buy a local station for the processing of organic matter, which independently maintains the process temperature and is equipped with a control system. In the end, you can make a cylinder of the required height and width from a chain-link mesh and put the waste for composting into it, but it will be inconvenient to get the compost out of such a container and dig up the mass in it.

When can you compost? There is no strict framework in this matter: you can start laying layers in the spring, after pruning trees and shrubs, and replenish the layers as organic material arrives. In autumn, fallen leaves, tops of vegetables and melons can be laid in the compost heap. Advances in modern science even make it possible to produce compost in winter. But first things first.

How to compost? At the bottom of the composter or pile, place chips or branches that will serve as drainage material, and then start filling the composter layer by layer, and the more types of organic matter you put in the compost, the higher its quality will be. Composting involves the alternation of dry waste with wet and green with brown (nitrogenous with carbonaceous). Waste, which is a source of nitrogen, is laid in the so-called green layer - trimming and cleaning vegetables, small twigs, green tops, and in the brown layer - torn newspapers and other paper containing carbon, fallen leaves and dry twigs. You can enrich the composition of the compost with plants that contribute to the rapid formation of humus - yarrow, dandelion, chamomile, valerian. To speed up fermentation, the compost heap is watered with a solution of mullein or bird droppings. The consistency of the mass should resemble a damp sponge, but moderation should be observed in moistening the compost, since "flooded" microorganisms will not be able to generate heat that promotes decay.

To maintain the temperature and environment necessary for the process, a homemade composter must be covered with an oilcloth, an old carpet, linoleum, or a lid knocked together from tightly-fitting boards. Once or twice a month, the layers of compost should be turned over with a pitchfork to loosen the mass, achieve uniform moisture and stimulate processes that die out due to lack of ventilation. In hot weather, the compost is poured with water from time to time to maintain the necessary moisture.

Well, you put compost in the box, now you need to wait for it to rot. The finished compost looks like a dark, moist, crumbly mass that smells like forest soil.

Compost production requires compliance with some rules:

• compost shouldn't smell bad. If the smell of ammonia appears, it means that the processes are proceeding incorrectly, and the mass can turn into poison. In this case, add torn paper to the compost to neutralize the predominance of nitrogen components in it. So that the ammonia formed during fermentation does not leave the pile in the form of a fetid gas, but is processed into nitrogen, the following procedure for filling the container should be observed: each layer of waste should be no more than 50 cm thick, and layers of organic matter are interspersed with layers of soil or manure 5-10 cm thick;
• everything that you put in the compost heap should be pre-crushed, and the greens should be slightly dried so that they are not sour in the compost, but melted;
• before the onset of winter, you need to shovel the entire pile so that the lower layer is at the top, and the upper one is at the bottom;
• the height of the pile should not be more than 1.5 m, and the width should not be less than 1 m, otherwise it will be difficult for you to shovel the mass. The height of the heap is measured a couple of months after the compost is set, as it settles considerably during this time.

Fast compost

Many gardeners prefer to make quick compost: on an elevated site, they dig a shallow (no more than 40 cm), but wide hole, which is filled with broken branches and chopped wood, and thrown with earth on top. In a year or two, you will have an excellent fertilizer for the garden and vegetable garden.

The fastest compost is obtained from leaves: in the fall, fallen leaves are laid in a shallow hole, layered with garden soil, watered with biostimulants (EM preparations - Baikal-M1, Humisol, Tamir, Urgas or the like) and covered with a black film, and in mid-May this the compost can already be partially used for its intended purpose. To speed up the process, you can put "leaven" from the already rotted compost into the young compost. You can speed up the composting process by such means as a solution of sugar and yeast, which should be abundantly watered with plant residues placed in the composter, or nettle infusion: ¾ pour the nettle buckets with warm water, add a packet of dry yeast and put in a warm place for 5 days, after which the infusion is filtered and poured over the compost.

Compost at home

You can make compost at home during the winter.

Do-it-yourself compost at home is easy to make. To do this, you will need:

• plastic bucket;
• garbage bag;
• several plastic half-liter bottles;
• a bottle of EM liquid that speeds up the composting process;
• spray;
• a plastic sugar bag;
• a package of garden soil or purchased soil.

Make cylinders of the same height out of plastic bottles, cutting off the bottom and neck, and place them on the bottom of the bucket. Place a trash bag with several small holes at the bottom in the bottom to drain excess liquid and start filling it with chopped plant residues, spraying each 3 cm layer from a spray bottle with an accelerator solution prepared according to the instructions. After moistening the residues, squeeze air out of the bag, tie it tightly and press down with a weight - for example, a five-liter plastic bottle with water. Drain the compost water from the bucket about once every three days - this liquid can be poured down the drain overnight to unclog sewers and sinks. And if you dilute this liquid with water in a ratio of 1:10, you can water your indoor plants with it.

As the bag is filled with organic residues, spray each layer with a fermentation stimulator, release air from the bag and set pressure on it - do this until the bag is placed in the bucket. Once the bucket is full, place it along with the compost in the heat for fermentation for a week, then mix the compost with a little garden or garden soil, transfer it to a sugar bag and take it out to the balcony or loggia where it will now be stored.

Place a new waste bag with water drain holes in the empty bucket and start the process of collecting and composting all over again. If you do everything correctly, you will not hear an unpleasant smell. A sour odor can occur simultaneously with the appearance of white mold on the surface of the compost - this is a sign that the process is not proceeding correctly. To fix this, add finely chopped newspapers or other paper to the bucket. Place the second portion of the matured compost in the bag containing the first batch of fertilizer. Ready-made homemade compost can be poured into pots of indoor plants, added to the seedling substrate or taken to the country and used as fertilizer or mulch.

Compost in bags

Growing champignons is now a very profitable business, and many are adapting to growing these mushrooms in their basements - this method is called intensive, as opposed to extensive, when mushrooms are cultivated in natural conditions. Mushrooms are grown in different ways, but the most effective method is growing in bags: it does not require high financial costs, and mushrooms diseased in one bag do not infect mushrooms in neighboring bags. The only drawback of this method can be considered only that the filling of the substrate in the bags requires significant physical effort. The compost in bags is placed on the floor in parallel or staggered, and the staggered arrangement saves production space.

A high yield of mushrooms can be obtained only on a nutrient medium, and this requires a compost-based substrate. Compost for growing mushrooms, like garden fertilizer, can be prepared by yourself. For 100 kg of wheat or rye straw, you will need 100 kg of horse manure, 8 kg of gypsum, 5 kg of chalk, 2 kg of superphosphate and urea. The straw is cut 15-20 cm long, poured with water for 2-3 days so that it does not get wet, but moistens, then they put three or four layers of straw in a pile or box in a queue with layers of manure, adding compost fertilizer - all the urea and part of the superphosphate (500 g). Then the mass is thoroughly mixed, gypsum is added, then the remainder of superphosphate, then chalk, and after adding each ingredient, the compost is thoroughly mixed each time - only 4 times. The output is 300 kg of substrate - this amount should be enough for laying 3 m² of mycelium.

If you use not horse, but bird droppings, then the proportions will be different: for 100 kg of droppings and 100 kg of straw, 300 liters of water, 8 kg of gypsum are required, and instead of superphosphate and chalk, alabaster is used.

Compost for mushrooms should be ripened outdoors in a place protected from the sun and rain for three weeks - during this time the components "burn out", the ammonia completely evaporates, and the compost can be used: about 15 kg of compost mass are placed in special perforated bags and mycelium is planted in it.

Compost in boxes

The box mushroom growing system was developed in the United States in 1934 and is still popular today in the United States, Canada and Australia. Growing mushrooms in boxes, as well as in bags, allows you to localize the defeat of fungi by diseases and pests and provides an opportunity to keep mushrooms at different stages of development in different rooms.

The boxes are made of spruce, birch or alder boards. The volume of the boxes can be from 0.4 to 2 m², and the optimal depth of the containers is 12-15 cm. Before use, they are disinfected with a 4% formalin solution or a 2% lysol solution. As for the substrate, the method for its preparation is the same as for growing mushrooms in bags.

Ready-made compost - is it worth buying

If you don’t have time to compost or you’re afraid not to cope with this task, you can, of course, purchase ready-made compost. The product of Biud has proven itself well - a universal concentrated and environmentally friendly biocompost, which can be used both for ornamental crops and for fruit and berry crops. To create this biofertilizer, both traditional methods of composting and the latest Finnish technologies are used. The basis for the compost of this brand is high-moor and low-lying peat, cattle or horse manure, poultry and fur-bearing carnivorous animal droppings. Chopped straw, sawdust of deciduous trees, dolomite flour, vermiculite and other natural preparations are used as additives. By the name of the compost, you can determine what type of manure is used in it - "Cow", "Horse", "Chicken". There is also a biocompost in the series, created to fertilize the soil in autumn, it is called “Autumn”.

The use of compost during planting has a fruitful effect on vegetable crops - one tablespoon of fertilizer is applied to the holes. 2-3 glasses of fertilizer are placed in the pits of berry bushes, and a liter jar of compost is placed in the pits of fruit trees.

Compost for mushrooms is also not in short supply - you can buy it both loose and in briquettes. However, you should still try to make compost yourself, because this requires very little effort, and all the necessary ingredients are waste of your life. Start collecting and layering organic waste at home as described in our article, and the first bucket of your own compost will inspire you both to build a large garden fertilizer box and to start a compost heap. As a result, you will always have high-quality and free organic fertilizer in your garden.

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After this article, they usually read

Compost is an indispensable component of nutrient soil in the garden of any gardener. In addition, it is also recognized as the most affordable fertilizer in terms of costs, since the main component of its manufacture is waste. That is, it is made practically out of nothing, because in any garden there will always be some kind of waste.

You just need to know that in order to obtain a complete nutrient for the soil, the compost heap must be properly prepared. After all, compost will not only fertilize the soil, but also serve as an improver for its structure, looseness and ability to retain and absorb moisture.

What is compost

In order for the garden to be well-groomed and give a good harvest, it simply needs to be fertilized. You can do this with the help of chemical fertilizers, or you can get by with your own free, useful and safe remedy.

Compost is a natural organic fertilizer that is produced by fermentation by earthworms and bacteria.

To obtain such fertilizer, a compost heap is laid. Often it is done by simply digging a hole in the ground, but it is better if it is a specially equipped place - a composter.

Compost boxes are made in the form of closed or open containers, but you can also purchase special plastic boxes equipped with a lid and a door.

The prepared compost is introduced into the holes before planting garden crops in open ground or for planting in greenhouses. Or it is scattered over the area before planting the seed and slightly mixed with the soil.

What is compost made from?

Many people think that for composting it is enough to dump all kinds of waste in some corner of the garden. Time will pass, they will perereut, and fertilizer will turn out. But this is far from the case.

To get safe and healthy compost, you need to build the right compost heaps, so there are a few things to keep in mind. First of all, the composition of such a heap. It can include:

• ash, chalk, charcoal, eggshells;
• mowed grasses, straw and hay;
• sawdust and tree debris;
• vegetable food waste;
• weeds and healthy plant greens;
• bird droppings and animal manure;
• compost stimulants.

Compost dimensions

The composting components are collected in the composting bin. Correct composting does not release harmful substances into the soil and does not cause inconvenience with a strong unpleasant odor.

It is important to respect the size of the compost, otherwise it will be difficult to create a comfortable temperature and humidity regime for the compost. The optimal pile sizes are one and a half meters in width and the same or more in length. If you make the pile smaller, then it will quickly lose moisture and will not be able to warm up well. This will lead to the fact that the composting process will take a long time.

No compost

Before making a compost heap, you need to know that you cannot add to its composition:

• disinfectants and chemicals;
• the remains of weeds with seeds of long germination periods or the roots of creeping plants, since they do not lose germination during composting;
• the remains of coated glossy paper, rubber, textiles, as well as animal bones and stones - all these substances do not decompose in compost;
• human feces and waste from domestic animals, which may be contaminated with worm eggs;
• diseased plants that are affected by pests and fungi, for example late blight, - such residues are necessarily burned in the garden;
• food waste of animal origin, which triggers decay processes and causes a persistent unpleasant odor.

Open composting device

You can perform a composting, as they teach advice to gardeners in specialized publications, in the following way:

1. Prepare a composting area. To do this, you need to choose a suitable place at the end or middle of the garden and level the ground. Shaded areas without direct sunlight are best suited for this purpose.
2. Then enclose the area required for the compost with boards, shields or slate sheets. Or put together a wooden box with slots for air exchange. You can also fix a special garden mesh on metal supports. It can be one container or two separated by a partition, one of which will be filled in the current year, and the second in the next.
3. Dig a hole half a meter deep and pour a drainage layer on the bottom. For this, you can use sand, gravel, large wood residues. It is imperative to make such a layer, since it is impossible to allow the water that will wet the compost heap to collect in the compost bin. It should drain from the compost bin without obstruction.
4. Then, on the drainage layer, it is imperative to lay the finished mature compost of the past or the year before last in a small layer. This is necessary to supply the ingredients of the heap with bacteria, with which the compost is fermented.

Making a closed compost

A closed compost bin is a more reliable and durable construction than an open compost bin. It is built with walls that have slots for ventilation, and with a cover that will allow you to mix the compost. Such a compost heap in the country house has a neater appearance, does not interfere with the aesthetic perception of the space. As a rule, such a container is made of plastic, which does not lend itself to decay, does not fall apart and will last a long time.

To install the ventilation system, pipes are inserted into the box, which are protected with a mesh so that they do not get clogged with compost.

The advantages of a closed compost heap are that it allows heat to accumulate quickly and retains it well. From this, pests die, and the fermentation process occurs faster.

Another plus is that in these containers it is not necessary to comply with the mandatory proportions of the constituent ingredients. You can dump a variety of acceptable waste, residues and grass in any convenient amount on the heap. It is only important to mix all this systematically.

How to make a compost pile

For the correct preparation of the ingredients of the heap, you must:

1. Prepare the necessary components, chopping them as finely as possible. Branches can be broken, and plant residues can be chopped up with a shovel. The smaller the compost parts of the heap are, the faster the compost will mature.
2. Lay the components in layers, the thickness of each of the layers should be up to 15 cm. In this case, it is imperative to alternate the stacking of food waste, wood residues and green mass of plants.
3. Layers can be applied with manure or droppings, or commercial liquid fertilizers can be applied. Compost stimulants are also used at this stage. It is better to use cow or horse manure as manure for a heap, and chicken droppings are the best bird droppings.
4. From above, the pyramidal compost heap is covered with straw, spandbond, planks or plant stems. This is necessary for free air circulation. Often, gardeners cover the pile with polyethylene, but this is not recommended: when covered with plastic wrap, the compost will overheat without access to air. And this is fraught with the appearance of a putrid, unpleasant persistent odor.

Maturation of compost

The preparation of compost and the duration of its maturation is in direct proportion to which fractions have compost components and which fermentation mode is set. In general, fermentation and composting takes a very long time, the minimum period is several months, the maximum period is two to three years.

The finer the fractions of the embedded components are, the faster composting will take place. It is also important that the temperature inside the compost pyramid is close to 60 degrees or higher. This will not only speed up the process of decomposition of ingredients, which occurs with the help of bacteria, but will also help to eliminate the possibility of germination of weed seeds as much as possible. Also, at such a high temperature, harmful insects die.

To ensure the correct fermentation regime, it is important that good moisture and air exchange is ensured inside the pyramid.

Providing fermentation

In order to speed up the composting and fermentation of the compost heap constituents, it is necessary to perform the following actions:

1. When hot and dry weather sets in, the compost pyramid must be watered. Moreover, the water should wet all the layers of the heap. This process is most conveniently performed from a large cross-section garden hose, because a large amount of water is required.
2. Watering the heap should be done in the morning, in this case, during the day, the wet compost will have time to warm up well, and the process of active decomposition will start.
3. How to water the compost heap? It is watered with ordinary warm water, but from time to time it is necessary to add a compost stimulator to the water or insist in it with fresh manure.
4. The compost needs shoveling a couple of times per season. This helps bring the well-fermented inner layers up. In this case, the upper ones move inward.
5. Also, when mixing, the compost is saturated with air and gets rid of accumulated gases.
6. With the onset of cold weather, the compost needs to be insulated, while the process of active composting is prolonged. For warming, the pile is sprinkled with humus or peat, and then the tops from the harvested root crops, sunflower stalks or fresh straw are placed on top. This year, plant leftovers will keep warm, and next year they will serve as ingredients for a new heap.

Fallen leaves compost

Separately, it should be said about compost from fallen leaves, popularly known as "leaf earth". How to make a compost heap from fallen leaves?

Fallen leaves are taken as the basis for such compost. The advantage of this approach is that at the end of autumn, the leaves lose minerals, and only lignin, tannin and hemicellulose remain in their tissues, which are valuable ingredients of humus. And the downside is that these components are re-heated rather slowly, which prolongs the composting period. The foliage of oaks, beeches, chestnuts, willows and plane trees contains a lot of tannin. Therefore, their leaf mass should not be used for laying in a heap, but only for its shelter.

Leaf compost matures much longer than usual, about two years. But gardeners make it because it is very valuable in that it improves the quality of the soil. It also contains micro-fungi inside that decompose hemicellulose and lignin. And this becomes useful for those garden plants in which the roots interact with the fungal microflora in the process of symbiosis.

To get a good composting result, there are a few things to keep in mind:

1. When creating a compost, it must be borne in mind that microorganisms come from the ground, so you need to arrange it in a clean space where no chemicals have been used.
2. Adding valerian officinalis, yarrow, chamomile and dandelion to the pile of herbs speeds up composting.
3. To accelerate fermentation, bioconcentrates are added to the compost. In this case, a so-called fast compost pile is obtained, which can mature in three weeks.
4. You need to know that the high content of fresh coniferous sawdust in the compost significantly reduces the potassium balance, therefore, at the stage of readiness, such compost must be enriched with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.
5. The presence of green constituents in compost should not exceed one third of the total volume, because herbs ferment slowly and can rot. If it turns out that the main volume will consist of grass, then it must first be dried in the sun.
6. The highest quality compost is obtained using a variety of components. Not only organic components should be present, but also mineral ones. For this purpose, the compost heap is supplied with superphosphates, dolomite flour, complex mineral fertilizers.
7. It should be borne in mind that manure is a concentrated fertilizer, so its content in the compost should not exceed 10%.
8. For better stability and increased air exchange processes, the compost heap should be laid in a conical or pyramid-like manner.
9. In order to ripen the pile faster, ingredients containing a lot of nitrogen, such as straw, legumes or legumes, are added to the pile.

In summer cottages and household plots, there is often a problem of disposal of organic waste - leaves, weeds, cleaning, sawdust and others. Unlike inorganic waste (glass, plastic, etc.), all of this can be used to obtain a clean, environmentally friendly fertilizer - compost. It turns out as a result of the biological decomposition process under the influence of the vital activity of microorganisms. Adding compost to any soil improves its quality characteristics. Clay soils acquire a lighter, crumbly structure, while sandy soils retain moisture better. Let's take a look at how you can make a compost pit and compost properly.

The following organic waste is suitable for raw materials, which are conventionally divided into two large groups.

Brown waste

These include those that emit carbon.

Green waste

Wastes that emit nitrogen are considered green.

• unsuitable for food and for processing berries, vegetables and fruits;
• sleeping tea and coffee cake;
• stubs and cleaning;
• scraps of wool;
• leftovers of soups, cereals;
• eggshell;
• waste products of herbivores.

When laying a large amount of freshly cut grass, the composting time will be significantly increased. To speed up the process, lightly sprinkle small layers of grass with earth.

What should not be put?

Not all organic matter is suitable for fertilization.

You cannot put in the compost pit:

• fresh pet excrement;
• loach, wheatgrass;
• bones;
• leaves and other parts of plants affected by diseases, especially powdery mildew;
• plants treated with any chemicals;
• weeds that have matured seeds;
• inorganic non-degradable waste (rubber, metal, glass, synthetic materials);
• tops of potatoes and tomatoes;
• fats, meat, dairy products;
• fresh and boiled eggs (except for shells).

Potato and tomato tops, even healthy in appearance, can be a carrier of late blight. Subsequently, such fertilization can infect all plants. In addition, this raw material takes a very long time to be disposed of, the process will take about 5 years.

Anything that is not suitable for a compost pit, but should be thrown into a cesspool or taken out from the site as garbage.

Location requirements

A place on the site is chosen, as a rule, not in sight and one that is not a pity - where nothing grows due to dense shade or infertility of the soil, somewhere behind farm buildings, if any, in the backyards.

There are other important points as well.

• You need to understand that rotting raw materials will not emit the most pleasant smell, so you should think about moving away from the resting place and about neighbors. It would be nice to know the wind rose, so as not to place the pile on the leeward side.
• Consideration should be given to providing free access to the pit as raw materials will be added and taken continuously throughout the season.
• It is advisable to choose a site on a flat surface, and not in a pit, it is possible with a slight slope in order to exclude stagnation of water, which interferes with the flow of oxygen, and therefore stretches the process over time.
• The compost heap, although called a pit, must be above ground level. In this case, it will warm up better, it will be more convenient to loosen, water and generally serve it. The optimal parameters are 50 cm deep, 1 m of barriers above the ground. Higher walls will make loosening and composting difficult.
• Exclude proximity to a source of drinking water (must be more than 25 m).
• The place should be in shade or partial shade - sunlight slows down and dries out the raw materials.
• Do not place the structure under trees, they can get sick and die. Neighborhood with conifers and other evergreen crops is especially not recommended. The best neighbors are alder and birch.

Do not cover the bottom of the pit with foil, slate or other material that does not allow moisture to pass through! It must penetrate from the soil unhindered (deepening will contribute to this), otherwise everything will dry out. The bottom must remain earthen.

Design features

The ideal dimensions of a structure are usually indicated by the parameters of 1.5m x 2m, but ultimately they are determined based on the amount of raw materials that can be saved in 2 years. This is how much the process of preparing the finished substrate will take. Therefore, the ideal pit should be twice as large and two-section, designed for two cycles. In the first compartment there will be a ready-made bookmark, in the other over the next two years fresh waste will be accumulated.

It is important to know that a small pit will not heat up well as a result of decay, and this temperature may not be enough to kill all pathogenic microflora and harmful spores. Experts determine the required temperature at 60C and the above-mentioned optimal dimensions.

Above, the structure must have a removable cover.

Design options

You can equip a compost pit in different ways, consider several common options.

Ordinary pit

The simplest structure that does not require additional costs and materials. A shallow hole is made, no more than half a meter in depth, into which everything is folded according to the usual principle. The contents are covered with black plastic on top. In order to make it easier to remove it for adding waste or using it, it is rolled from both sides onto a long handle, which also serves as a load. After each new bookmark, it is recommended to cover the waste with grass.

The option is simple, but it is difficult to call it effective and convenient. There will be difficulties with mixing, and such a pile will not be able to warm up enough, which means that it will take a longer period for it to quail.

Two-piece composter

The material for manufacturing can be boards, old slate, metal sheets, corrugated board, walls from plastic containers, bricks, etc. The optimal dimensions, depending on the size of the site, are 1.5-2 m wide and 2-3 m long. Deepen by 0.5-0.8 m. To fix the structure at the corners (retreating to the required distance from the pit), pipe sections or large-diameter metal rods are dug in, capable of withstanding the weight of the compost heap. Wooden pillars are not suitable for this purpose, since the decay process will invariably touch them, and the structure will not stand for long due to the load.

Install the walls, not forgetting about the ventilation holes. A partition is installed in the middle, dividing the structure into two equal-sized compartments. In one of them ready-made humus will be stored, in the second "young" waste will be stored. It is better to make the lid hinged, so that it does not slide out and tightly covers the contents.

It is advisable to treat the supporting sections of metal pipes with an anti-corrosion bioprotective compound, and all wooden parts with a protective impregnation, and then cover with two layers of acrylic paint.

The bottom, as already mentioned, cannot be covered with waterproof material, but straw, sawdust or tree bark are perfect for this - they will provide the necessary air exchange and allow excess moisture to calmly escape.

If you wish, you can make three sections. In the first, there will be a ready-made substrate, in the second, a fully matured one, and the third will be designed for laying new raw materials.

Single section composter

A simpler and more compact option. You will have to pick up the finished product from the bottom, for which you need to make a hole in one of the walls (or even better - from different sides), from which the ripe fertilizer will be selected. A distance of at least 30-40 cm should remain between the wall of the box and the ground. In this case, there is no need to mix the substrate.

Concrete box

A construction that will be built literally once and for all. Neat and reliable. To do this, you need to dig a trench of the desired perimeter with a depth of 70-80 cm and make a formwork. Pour concrete into it, remove the formwork and remove the earth from the box to the required depth. As a cover, you can use a wooden shield or a film, pressed against a metal mesh.

Ready plastic container

The modern market offers ready-made plastic composter structures. They have different sizes (within 400-1000 liters), required ventilation holes (make sure of this!) And a cover.

Their cost depends on the size, design and region and usually ranges from 2 to 10 thousand rubles.

Do not make compost pits too large, their contents will overheat, which is also undesirable, since this will lead to the death of the necessary microorganisms.

How to fill a compost pit correctly?

Before laying the raw materials, clean the bottom of the pit from the turf and dig it well to a depth of 30 cm. This will provide conditions for the active vital activity of worms and the penetration of beneficial microorganisms, which will provide irreplaceable assistance in the process of waste processing. In addition, excess water will go well into loose soil.

We start laying, alternating layers of wet and dry, brown and green raw materials. Their optimal ratio should be approximately as follows: 3 parts of brown waste to 1 part of green waste, and wet raw materials should be 5 times more than dry. Anything large must be broken or chopped.

Moisten (not much) and cover with a lid.

Raw materials should not be strongly tamped, but excessive looseness is also undesirable. Everything should be in moderation, especially humidity.

Storing compost is not all. The correct follow-up will help speed up the decay process and make the fertilizer more nutritious. Follow the guidelines below.

The following additives contribute to faster cooking.

• Rotten horse manure.
• Some plant species (valerian, chamomile, dandelions, yarrow).
• Specially produced activating drugs, for example, Baikal EM-1, Compostin and Compostar.
• Stale (dried) bird droppings.
• Stems of leguminous crops.
• Bone and dolomite meal.
• Superphosphate and complex mineral fertilizers.

In the process of decomposition of the contents, the temperature inside rises, and light steam can even rise from the heap. This is normal and is a sign that everything is going right.

Take your time and effort for this simple structure. This will also solve the problem of recycling a considerable part of organic waste, and will provide the most valuable fertilizer, in the quality and environmental friendliness of which you will be absolutely sure.