I was not the first who came up with the idea that when using ordinary chairs and stools, a lot of the useful volume of the room is lost.
This is especially acute in our small kitchens, in which it is often simply impossible to fit everything you need. Indeed, it is not necessary to use an ordinary stool as a seating place - it will be equally convenient to sit on a small bedside table in which you can store kitchen utensils or food. Isn't it a piece of furniture without a back and armrests for one person's seat?
These reflections led me in the end to the decision to make something like a hybrid of a bedside table and a stool - a bedside table. And since I do not live alone, I decided to make two such products at once. Of course, this does not appeal to the headset, but a pair of identical things still reduces the furniture inconsistency in the kitchen.
The choice of material for the manufacture of bedside tables stools
I decided to make the body of the product from pine furniture board. Laminated HDF sheet was perfect as a back wall. But I wanted to make the seat itself from a harder wood - for example, from birch.
Sikkens water lantern planned for finishing. The tone was chosen the same as the kitchen is decorated. The final "kinship" with her was provided by such small details as handles: I picked them up with the same pattern as on all other kitchen handles.
I decided to cover the seat with a lighter color varnish. I used corners, dowels and eccentric ties as fastening accessories.
Doors
I decided to make the doors paneled - they were supposed to give additional "importance" to such a small object. The panel itself was made of 18 mm thick furniture board, like the strapping bars. Buying a pine furniture board in the store, I noticed that several panels were glued not from lamellas spliced along the length, but from solid ones, and even radial sawing. Such shields are the best blanks for doors. Of course, they immediately ended up in my cart.
At the panel, I processed the figarine field not only from the front side, but also from the back. It is not so wide there. For work, I purchased an assembly of cutters from the company CMT, which allows you to simultaneously remove "excess" from both sides of the workpiece. True, this is possible only with a not very wide
the processing area, but the productivity of the cutters is still very high: one pass is enough for processing. Of course, the milling cutter must have a power of at least 2 kW and be with the obligatory function of maintaining constant speed under load. This is very important, since it is possible to work with cutters of large diameters only at the appropriate speed - usually no more than 11,000-12,000 rpm.
And more about security. If we turned the router over and secured it to the table, the danger of this tool increased significantly. Under no circumstances should fingers meet the rotating cutter! For safety, for example, I always use a protective screen made of durable and transparent material. My screen is tilted to the side to the operator so that a finger cannot fit between it and the workpiece. And in shape, the screen is elongated in length so that the palm also does not reach the cutter from the side. Although during work, the hands should not be at the side at the level of the cutter, but only in the area of the workpiece in front of the screen.
I also processed the strapping bars on a milling table using a set of two cutters - for the profile and the counter profile.
IMPORTANT
There is a maximum rotational speed for each cutter diameter - it is dangerous to exceed it.
Bedside table - do-it-yourself stool: manufacturing progress
The panels were made with a powerful router, fixed in the table. The protective screen is clearly visible.
Manufacturing of body parts and assembly
There were no special difficulties with the opening of the furniture board. First, I saw it with a circular saw along the guide along, then - across. I planed the edges with a plane and chamfered them with a low-power hand router.
After that, I sanded the planes of the parts. This job is best done with an orbital sander. Since I planned to use a water-based varnish, I moistened the parts with water before sanding. In this case, the fibers swell, the pile rises. When the details dried up, the "orbital" took it all off. After this sanding, when the varnish is applied, the pile no longer rises, and the varnished surfaces become smooth and pleasant to the touch - as it should be for furniture.
When I varnished the parts, I made sure not to paint over the places where the glue would be applied during assembly: clean, varnish-free surfaces stick together more firmly.
The doors are pre-assembled and ready for painting. Blanks for walls and lids are awaiting further processing. To make the racks look more like stool legs, I drilled two Ø 35 mm holes in the bottom of the racks on a drilling machine (like cups for hinges) ...
... and then cut out the excess with a jigsaw, moving the file in a straight line.
At the seats, I slightly rounded the corners with an allowance with a jigsaw. I used the first round object that came to my hand as a template. Then he brought the circles to the correct shape with a belt sander. In conclusion, I chamfered a 6.3 mm radius around the perimeter with a hand mill.
After finishing the paneling and the strapping bars, I glued the doors in the folds.
IMPORTANT
Usually, in chipboard furniture, two attachment points are used per side (for example, at a shelf). But the glued furniture board in the transverse direction is not rigid enough, therefore it is better that there are more attachment points, at least three.
The seat was attached to the uprights with eccentric ties. Pre-marked the places of drilling holes in the end edges of the posts.
Drilled holes for eccentric rods with a 7 mm drill ...
... and under the eccentrics themselves I drilled Ø 15 mm cups on a drilling machine (if it is absent, this can be done with a drill fixed in the rack).
The lower shelves were fastened on dowels and corners (they are invisible at the bottom, so they do not spoil the view). I drilled holes for the dowels on a homemade machine.
Then, from the bottom of the seats, I marked the center lines of the edges of the pillars. Having combined the racks and seats, I found the places of the holes for the eccentric rods.
He drilled holes with a Ø 5 mm drill with a depth limit and screwed in the rods.
I connected the lower shelves with dowels with uprights ...
... and secured with corners. To attach the rear wall to the underside of the seat, I pre-screwed a bar with self-tapping screws. The racks have grooves for the rear wall.
I attached the back wall with self-tapping screws to the bottom shelf, uprights and the seat bar. It consists of two sheets of laminated (front side) HDF glued together and provides additional rigidity to the product.
The doors were installed inside the case on internal hinges. Therefore, to fix them in the closed position (so as not to fall through), I installed a false rail. It remains to glue soft pads from the bottom of the legs, and you can sit down at the table.
The chosen color of the finish of the product matches well with the tone of the rest of the kitchen furniture.
Diy nightstand stool - photo
So that you can easily screw in a light bulb, wipe the cornice or get to the top of kitchen cabinets, I made a comfortable step stool.
Previously, I cut out templates of all structural details from thick cardboard (see the figure on page 15) and transferred them onto multilayer plywood 20 mm thick (you can use a furniture board or a board of a suitable size). Then, with an electric jigsaw, I cut out the details of the stool along the contour, and on the side walls (1), the seat (2) and the back wall of the "insert" (8), I cut out angular and semicircular holes and grooves. I drilled holes d 6 mm in both side walls of the stool and in the ends of the base of the sliding part.
I started assembling. To the inner sides of the side walls (1) at the required height (depending on the size of the “insert” step) I fixed the strips (5) with the size of 20x25x60 mm. I attached the base (3) to the side walls with self-tapping screws, and transverse strips (4) to the cutouts on the sidewalls. Top mounted seat (2)
Separately, I assembled the retractable part of the stool, connecting all the parts (6, 7, 8) with dowels and glue, and secured it to the base with bolts and bushings. To do this, on both sides at the junction in the holes of the base (7), I glued metal tubes of a suitable diameter with an internal thread M6, placed a retractable stand and connected it to the base by screwing bolts into threaded bushings.
On a note
Before screwing in the bolts, I put washers under their heads.
The stool was sanded and covered with colorless varnish.
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A bedside table is an irreplaceable piece of furniture where you can store various things that you may always need. can be easily done because its construction is simple.
Despite its small size, the importance of the bedside table is difficult to overestimate, because it is not only a practical piece of furniture, but also a significant element of the interior of a room.
Variety of bedside tables
The bedside table can be very different. When choosing the right model, you need to consider the interior of the bedroom, carpentry skills and your financial reality. Curbstones are of the following types:
- Lockers with drawers. This is the most famous and simplest option.
- The curbstones are open. They are without boxes, so all things are in plain sight. Such pedestals are suitable for those who do not have small children in the house and do not need to hide anything from them.
- Sideboards with a retractable table. This model is indispensable if there are sick or disabled people in the house who need to be looked after.
- Hanging pedestals. This option is suitable if the bedroom area is small. They are attached to the wall, freeing up space on the floor.
- Original curbstones. It all depends on the imagination and skill of the employee.
All these pedestals can be made by hand. The cost of the product will depend on the building material, the quality of the hardware, the dimensions of the product and the number of boxes. Let's take the most common and cheapest model.
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Tool for work
For work you will need:
- drill with different attachments;
- electric drills for wood;
- screwdriwer set;
- electric milling cutter for wood (diameter 35 mm);
- pencil;
- measuring tape;
- electric iron;
- rectangle with a ruler;
- sandpaper;
- rags.
The electric iron was not in the list by mistake. You will need it for edgebanding. The glue side is applied to the part and ironed with a heated iron. For high-quality gluing, you need to take a rag and, without waiting for the edge to cool, press it down and iron it again.
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The choice of material for the curbstone
It can be made from chipboard, this will be the cheapest option.
A wide range of colors of laminated chipboard, used for the facade of the future bedside table, allows you to choose the tone in which the rest of the furniture in the room is made.
This material has gained recognition due to its low cost. And the most expensive type is a bedside table made of a solid solid wood array. But let's dwell on a simple, cheap product made from inexpensive materials:
- Board of shavings and sawdust (chipboard) covered with laminate. Suitable for the front of the bedside table. This material lends itself well to processing and has a multi-colored palette of colors. But not everyone knows that it is impossible to cut out parts from chipboard on your own, with an ordinary tool. When cutting with a regular tool, the edges of parts break off and crumble, so it is better to order cutting in a workshop where there is special equipment.
- Another fiberboard material is wood fiber board. It is more flexible and thinner than chipboard, suitable for making the bottom of the drawer and the back of the drawer to save money, since chipboard is more expensive than fiberboard.
When working with chipboard, you need to know the following subtleties:
- Slabs are 1 to 3.8 cm thick;
- Their sizes are also different. Therefore, you need to draw all the details on paper and calculate what size sheets to buy in order to minimize waste.
- When buying a sheet, you must carefully inspect so that there is no damage on the surface.
- Note the moisture content of the building material. If there is some moisture, the leaf may bend as it dries, making it difficult to handle.
- When transporting finished parts, care must be taken to ensure that they are neatly stacked and not damaged. It would be best to tie all the details and lay them on foam rubber or any other soft material.
Now some data on fiberboard:
- The thickness of fiberboard sheets ranges from 3 to 5 mm. The strength of the product depends on it. This material is used mainly for the manufacture of hidden parts, and a three-millimeter sheet is considered optimal for this.
- There are no strict quality standards for fiberboard. Any sheet is suitable for such purposes. Only not with a wavy surface - this means that the sheet is wet and bent, and it will not be easy to work with such material.
Everyone needs a bedside table, I can't imagine how to live without it. Nowadays, there is a huge selection of pedestals, but what if you didn't like everything that you saw in the store, but you want exactly what you can't buy on the market.
This is a great reason to make a do-it-yourself cabinet. Drawer units come in different sizes in width, height and depth, color and material.
The usual width of the bedside table is 500 mm, the recommended depth of the bedside table is 300-350 mm, and the height of the bedside table should be made according to the height of your bed.
How to make a bedside table with your own hands? Everything is very simple!
The material from which the bedside tables are made is different, but most often it is a tree or a chipboard saw (chipboard). In our example, consider the assembly of a bedside table from 16 mm chipboard.
We have a cabinet with drawers, which is a little more difficult to manufacture than a simple version with one door and a shelf in the middle.
Any project begins with calculations on a sheet of paper and a drawing of the future product.
And so, after all the blanks have been made for us, we need melamine or PVC edging the ends of our parts, which will be visible when looking at the assembled product.
Why it is not necessary to trim the entire perimeter of the part, this is an extra waste of material and your time, for example, only one front side of the shelf is trimmed, since the sides and rear part are closed by the walls of the cabinet body.
The most important thing when assembling the bedside table is not to leave protruding bolts, you should make recesses with a drill with a diameter of 9 mm so that the head of the self-tapping screw for wood drowns a little inward and can be sealed with a pvc plug.
If you look closely, a gap of 16 mm is left on each side for the side pillars of the curbstone.
The stands of the bedside tables themselves, they are attached to the decorative frame and the base of the curbstone, we close all the places for the screws with special plugs.
Ready-made cabinet, but without a drawer.
Installing the drawer guides
If you already have a bedside table and need to update your bedside table with your own hands?
Step one: I recommend disassembling it carefully.
Step two: iron the melamine edging for further removal.
important: As a rule, the edges and ends of the cabinets wear out, a budget way to update the nightstand is to remove the old edge and stick on a new one, you can even use a different color. It will look very interesting.
Step three: removal of the edge occurs by smoothing with a hot iron along the edge, the glue takes on a liquid form and you can easily dismantle it without damaging the workpiece.
Step four: clean the ends of the chipboard from the glue.
While it is winter outside, you can take care of the house, namely the bedroom.
In our bedroom there is already a homemade bed 200x220, the ceiling is made and we are already. Now the turn has come to the makeshift bedside tables.
Unfortunately, I did not have time to record the process of creating a bed on the camera, but it was done according to this example:
The main material is, viz. Alpina Schokoladenbraun RAL (8017) paint - matt dark brown. The bedside tables were made on the basis of the same picture.
Unfortunately, it was not possible to photograph the very process of making the blanks for the bedside tables, since I ordered them from a local carpenter. I will briefly describe what parts each bedside table will consist of:
- table top - 1 piece
- sidewalls - 2 pcs.
- lower inner shelf - 1 piece
- drawer sides - 4 pcs
- box front and back walls - 4 pieces
- drawer front - 2 pieces
- lower part facade - 2 pieces
- handles - 2 pcs.
- drawer guides - 4 pcs
- the back wall of the curbstone - 1 piece
- the bottom of the boxes - 2 pieces
- furniture corners (plastic double) - 6 pieces
I must say right away that the tabletop, sides and fronts of the drawers are made of pine, the drawers and the bottom shelf are made of chipboard, and the back wall of the cabinet is made of fiberboard with a thickness of 5 mm.
So having received all the necessary blanks, I started painting. The painting process itself was also not photographed, since it was very cold and this article is not about painting. By the way, I have also told you.
I painted all the details except the lower shelves. Of course, this is a little not aesthetically pleasing, but these shelves are not visible, so I decided not to apply expensive paint on them.
We start assembling the bedside tables by screwing the furniture corners to the inner side of the sidewall. We fasten 2 corners in the upper part flush, and 2 more in the lower part with an indent of 10 cm from the end.
We attach the tabletop to the upper corners, and to the lower corners the lower inner shelf made of chipboard. Do not be alarmed if, after assembling 4 parts, the frame of the bedside table is slightly skewed. This is lined with a back wall made of fiberboard.
A few words about the countertop. Its dimensions were conceived as 600 x 400 mm. The width turned out to be this, but the depth turned out to be 3-6 centimeters more (from 430 at the edges to 460 mm in the center), since it is slightly oval in the front part to match the design of the bed and to come out a little forward.
After the frame of the bedside tables is assembled, we proceed to fastening the guides for the bedside tables.
We calculated so that they were attached to the bottom of the boxes. I will say right away that this was a small mistake. Better to attach the runners to the middle of the drawers. Then they will not touch the facades of the bedside tables.
The guides should be 5-10 cm less than the depth of the bedside tables. They are mounted flush on the front side.
These are the handles I chose for the drawers.
They were originally gray. I had to buy a can of gold paint and paint it in one layer so that the handles match the color of the lamps and the chandelier. After the paint, I opened them with another layer of varnish just in case.
Having painted the fronts of the drawers in one layer, I proceeded to drilling the holes for the handles.
It is clear that they need to be done exactly in the center, so be careful and remember the immortal rule "Measure seven times, drilled once."
This is how the fronts with handles looked like after one coat of paint.
And so after the third layer. Of course, I took off the pens before painting.
After that, we start assembling the boxes.
We fasten them together with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes with a thin drill (so as not to damage the workpiece when tightening the screws).
This is how the assembled boxes look like.
After that, we proceed to fastening the bottom of the boxes using a stapler. On one side we fasten flush, and the rest are already aligned under the bottom so that there are no distortions.
We drill holes for self-tapping screws, which will be used to fasten the fronts of the boxes.
After attaching the facades to the drawers, we fix the lower fixed facade using 2 furniture corners.
That's all. Our bedside tables look like this:
Of course, there is nothing special in the design of these bedside tables, but they are made almost entirely by hand, with a soul, painted on their own, in the end, and all this together is worth a lot (if you know what I mean).