Spring work at the dacha. Spring in the garden

Now winter is living out its last days and comes into its own, such a long-awaited for every gardener, spring.

Very soon the garden will recover from the heavy frosty everyday life and will breathe deeply.

During this period, active spring work begins in the garden and garden. It is necessary to prepare for the hot period of planting, watering and harvesting.

The main concerns of the summer resident in March

The first half of March is marked by harvesting and soil preparation.. The last snow crust that has formed around the trees must be removed with a garden fork. This procedure must be carried out very carefully so as not to damage those parts of the plants that are under the snow.

Trees must be whitewashed by the middle of the month. Young trees are covered with a mixture of mullein and clay to recharge after a long winter. As a pest control, blackcurrant bushes are doused with hot water, and a film is laid under the bush itself so that pests cannot get out of the soil.

When the air temperature crosses the mark of +5 degrees, the first spraying is carried out in the garden. All branches damaged by pests are removed and burned.

Be sure to check whether the plants survived the winter well. To do this, it is necessary to make a small incision along the base on the damaged-looking tissues. If there is no blackness on the cut and it is a light green hue, then the plant is not damaged. At the end of March, spraying from pests with copper sulphate is carried out.

When active snow melting begins, it is necessary to properly dispose of the melt water. If your site has large slopes, then here it is necessary to make small grooves across so that the fertile soil layer has not been carried away by water.

If your garden is located in a lowland, then the water should be diverted into deep ditches or pits so that the roots do not rot from lack of air. On flat sandy and light clay surfaces, melt water does no harm.

Work in the country in the spring is not complete without preparation for planting various crops. In March days, seeds are sown for seedlings of cauliflower and white cabbage, beets, tomatoes and onions. The soil for sowing is selected loose, fertile and not acidic. It must be prepared by mixing peat, fertile soil, humus, as well as tree resin and mineral fertilizers.

April preparations at their summer cottage

In April, the cleaning of the upper layers of the soil continues, removal of the bark near the kidneys. All garbage after complete drying of the soil is collected and burned. If the garden in past seasons was invaded by ticks, aphids, psyllids or suckers, then trees and shrubs should be sprayed with nitrofen. This must be done before the buds begin to open.

The circles around the trees must be dug up and loosened, being careful not to damage the roots. This is necessary not only to improve the quality of the soil, but also to destroy infections and pests. For some time, the trunk circles are covered with a film so that pests cannot get from winter shelters to trees. The film can be removed when the moths stop flying.

Also in April, they dig up the soil with the introduction of ash and mineral fertilizers. After the digging is completed, the earth is leveled with a rake. In heavy soils make ridges. In warm years, early crops can be sown at the end of April.

Dacha in May

The main spring work in the country begins in May. This month is considered the most crucial period for every gardener. The success of the entire summer season depends on the correctness of all events at this time.

To begin with, a thorough cleaning is carried out in the garden, props and films are removed, and the remains of last year's plants are also disposed of. It is necessary to wash greenhouses and greenhouses, to clean water drains. Don't forget to check your garden tools, as the period of its active use begins.

The soil must be periodically loosened and weeds removed. Do not forget about the mulching of trees and shrubs. It can be done with humus or fresh compost.

May is the time for planting a variety of ornamental and vegetable crops. At this time, carrots and potatoes, cucumbers, watermelons, melons are sown in already prepared holes.

Frosts often occur in May, which is why experienced gardeners carefully monitor temperature changes. In extreme cases, on frosty days, special smoke fires are lit on the site in order to prevent the flowers of fruit trees from freezing. On cold evenings, seedlings are covered with thick paper.

Carrying out work in the garden in the spring, it is necessary to approach each event with special care. During this crucial period, you are preparing for a successful summer season, so you can not miss anything. A garden and a garden require a lot of attention, effort and time. But it's worth it!

In April, most summer residents begin to go to the sites to see how he spent the winter. Many already at this time begin to prepare greenhouses and greenhouses, grow seedlings, put everything in order in the garden, plot, vegetable garden and country house.

Now sequentially. Let's analyze the "average" option, when the dacha was mothballed in November and they came to see the state only in April. On the site, in addition to the house, there is a garden, a vegetable garden, a greenhouse. Let's start with activities around the house.

Works in the country house

First of all, you need to look at the condition of the basement and blind area of ​​the house. In old village houses, dams protected.

Modern technologies for the construction of a concrete or brick foundation do not provide for the construction of blockages. In the best case, the plinth is tiled with facade tiles, plastered or painted. But often in the basement of the building you can see exposed concrete or brickwork. And if the house is placed on a columnar foundation, it is rarely protected.

In the cold season, snow falling from the roof creates additional shelter for the basement of the foundation. But when the sun begins to warm up, and the snow settles, melt water saturates the plinth, and at low night temperatures, when the water freezes, cracks can form on it.

Upon arrival at the dacha, it is necessary to clear the blind area of ​​​​the house from the snow, expose the basement, and allow it to dry. It is advisable to ensure the natural flow of melt water from the house - to dig paths along which the water will leave the house. This is especially important if surface drainage was not provided during the construction of the house, and melt water flows along the natural slope of the soil to the foundation of the house.

In the temperate zone, the weather is unstable in spring. There are sharp thaws when the daytime temperature exceeds +10°C, although the night temperature still continues to stay below 0°C. In such conditions, a heavy flood can flood the site, and the night cold can turn it into a skating rink. It is necessary to ensure the flow of water from the site, to clear the drainage grooves, which are usually dug along the perimeter of the site.

Work in the greenhouse after winter

There are a huge number of models of greenhouses, both industrial and handicraft.

All of them suffer from one "disease" - after 2-3 years of operation, the soil in them is salted, its fertility is sharply reduced. The first two years, a decent harvest can be supported by the application of organic and mineral fertilizers. But in the end, it becomes necessary to replace the soil (to a depth of 15-20 cm) or transfer the greenhouse to a new location.

It is interesting that in the case of using a polyethylene film as a cover for the greenhouse, which is torn in the second year in winter under the weight of snow and wind pressure, no significant soil salinization is observed. Practitioners have a strong opinion that non-permanent greenhouses (and most of them) should be left uncovered for the winter.

Indeed, the melt water in rural areas practically does not contain salts (in cities, snow absorbs a large amount of heavy salts) and is energetically active, alive.

Numerous experiments have proven that the use of melt water, even in industrial greenhouses operating all year round, can almost double the duration of soil operation. And in the conditions of a private greenhouse, the use of melt water, coupled with the rational application of organic fertilizers, makes it possible to remove the issue of replacing the soil.

It is not too late to do this in April, if summer residents did not come to the site all winter, the greenhouse should be ventilated and the beds covered with a thick layer of snow. It will not be possible to overdo it here - the more melt water passes through the soil of the greenhouse, the better.

True, a “conflict of interest” may arise, since from the second half of April it is already possible to plant green crops and radishes in the greenhouse using bioheating. But if the owners of the garden plot did not appear on it all winter, then they are unlikely to plant early vegetables and seedlings in April.

By the way, about bioheating. The effect of heat release during the decay of organic matter, in particular manure, was used a long time ago.

In protected ground conditions, bioheating is used constantly. The technology here is simple.

Fresh manure (horse or cow) is laid from autumn under greenhouse beds and covered with a layer of earth 15-20 cm.

Rotting of manure occurs constantly, but in winter, when the soil freezes, the activity of putrefactive bacteria decreases sharply, so the rate of decay decreases.

Since February, when the sun begins to peek out, the soil in the greenhouse warms up, the bacteria become more active. And since even night frosts are not terrible for heated soil, gardeners plant unpretentious crops in it. Some danger to humans is posed by gases released during decay of manure, in particular methane, ammonia and carbon dioxide, therefore greenhouses are constantly ventilated, although these gases in small concentrations do not harm plants.

On the one hand, ventilation is desirable, as the plants harden, but, on the other hand, heat is lost during ventilation.

Synthetic vapor barrier helps to reduce the emission of gases from biofuels.

In fact, this is the same geotextile that gardeners often use on the farm. In autumn, after laying manure, it is covered with a layer of synthetic vapor barrier or geotextile with a density of 60-80 g / m 2 and covered with fertile soil with a layer of 10-15 cm.

Work in the garden in spring

From the closed greenhouse soil, it is logical to move on to the open ground of garden beds. In agronomy, there is the concept of "alternation of crops." It implies the expediency of transferring culture to another place after a certain period of time.

Simply put, if garden strawberries grew on some beds for three years, then a sufficient amount of slag substances and pests of strawberries formed here.

It is advisable to move it to another place, and plant onions or garlic on strawberry beds, for which both pests of strawberries and the remaining slags from it are safe.

In fact, the same salinization of the soil has an impact on the decrease in yield.

We can say that melt water increases the bioprotection of the soil. Therefore, it is advisable to accumulate the maximum possible layer of snow (80-100 cm) on the beds and plots.

Spring work in the garden

In April, it is time to ventilate the protective shelters of the roses, if they have been built. Professional rose growers categorically do not recommend covering roses with spruce branches - spruce needles almost always contain spores of pathogenic fungi, in particular rust, which infect buds and young rose shoots.

Unfortunately, many owners of garden plots with enviable persistence continue to break off neighboring spruce forests and bring pathogenic microflora to their site.

Formative pruning of fruit trees.

Currently, the vast majority of woody fruit crops are offered for sale grafted onto semi-dwarf rootstocks. This means that the optimal height of garden trees is 3-4 m for apple trees and 4-5 m for pears, depending on the strength of the rootstock and the variety of the scion. The grafted plants themselves can far outgrow these heights, but the strength of the root of a semi-dwarf stock will not be enough to fully nourish the huge crown - the terminal branches become thinner, fruit buds are not laid.

Therefore, fruit trees are periodically crowned - they are cut at the right height. In addition, depending on the intensity of growth, with a frequency of 3-4 years, formative pruning of crowns is carried out, internal shading and intersecting branches are removed, and extra top shoots are cut out.

Enough has been written about the methods and techniques of pruning.

Here I would like to note that the gardener faces a dilemma when to prune - in autumn or spring? Autumn pruning stimulates the laying of fruit buds, but is fraught with frost, since large cuts are not protected, and the wood in them freezes deep. Pruned trees do not undergo deep freezing in spring, but when pruning, a large number of fruit buds are removed, and the gardener is left without a crop in the first warm season after pruning.

Such protection prevents deep freezing of wood, while pruning itself stimulates the laying of fruit buds. However, a tall stump eventually dries up and breaks out, leaving a hollow, into which pathogenic fungi penetrate.

Therefore, in the spring it must be cut according to the rules - according to the level of the fold of the bark at the point of origin of the branch. And it is good to smear the wound itself with garden pitch or paint it over with thick green oil paint.

If the forming pruning is carried out in the spring, then all sections more than 1 cm in diameter must be smeared with garden pitch - it is believed that sections less than 1 cm in diameter do not need such protection. Pruning is carried out before the start of sap flow.

When removing thick branches or trunks, the bark is first sawn in a circle. When cutting, the branches are held to avoid breaking and splitting the wood on the remaining branches. If this happens, then the split is wrapped with matting or geotextile, several turns of string are applied and pulled together. The saw cut and exposed cracks are coated with garden pitch.

On a note:

• In winter, snow sliding from the roof additionally covers the plinth, but in spring, when the snow melts, the wooden walls become damp to a great height.
• Clearing the blind area and exposing the basement is a mandatory event when visiting a suburban area in the winter.
• With proper maintenance of the site in the spring, the walls and basement of the house remain dry.
• In winter, greenhouses covered with cellular polycarbonate are usually completely covered with snow. In the spring, melted snow slides off the slopes, and the internal volume of the greenhouse warms up.
• The snow brought to the greenhouse beds, when melting, will wash the soil, free it from salts and pests.
• White lightweight geotextile with a density of 5-40 g/m 2 is an excellent shelter.
• In the spring, snow is removed from it and, if necessary, ventilation holes are made - Plants do not suffocate.
• When filing trunks or large branches, first make a circular cut through the bark.
• When they want to rejuvenate a tree, they remove the main trunk, allowing butt or basal shoots to grow. In the process of work, the trunk is usually cut down above the prescribed place so as not to accidentally split the remaining part, and the final saw cut is made inclined in the right place to avoid stagnant water, and smeared with garden pitch.

CLEANING PLANTS FROM SNOW

With heavy snowfalls and temperature drops from minus to plus, the snow becomes wet and heavy. Coniferous trees and shrubs - arborvitae, junipers, pines - suffer greatly from it. If the plants had a spreading or wide-conical crown shape, were not tied for the winter, then they suffer greatly from the breakage of large branches or their crown is deformed. Therefore, after heavy snowfalls, it is recommended to shake off wet and heavy snow from the branches. And sometimes you can bind for 1-2 months.

Sheared deciduous forms can also be affected by snow, such as spirea, hedge cotoneaster, vesicle.

WHITEWASHING OF STEMS AND SKELETAL BRANCHES

At the end of winter - the beginning of spring, whitewashing of trunks and skeletal branches can be carried out in order to avoid sunburn and frost cracks. Whitewashing, carried out in the fall, is ineffective for these purposes (washed off by rain).

FIGHTING WITH SUNBURN

In January - February in the middle lane the sun becomes active. During the day it warms, and at night the temperature drops sharply. Such a contrasting change in temperature leads to cracks - frost holes, especially on the southern side of plants.

It is enough to make a light shelter or screen on the south side of the plant to avoid burns.

TRUMBLING THE GROUND CIRCLES

Around stand-alone plants, it is necessary to trample the snow.

During the winter, passages and burrows of rodents form in the snow, which damage the delicate bark in the lower part of plant trunks.

Ornamental fruit and deciduous trees are especially affected, less often conifers. If the stem (lower part of the trunk) has not been protected since autumn with a special net from rodents, then it is necessary to trample the trunk circle, and hang "lugals" from hares on the lower or middle branches.

SPRING CUTTING

You can start sanitary pruning as soon as you can get close to the plants (February - April). Pruned branches broken by snow, frost-damaged branches, as well as diseased and dried ones. This type of trimming is carried out separately from the forming one or combined with it. The timing is limited by the opening of the kidneys and the appearance of leaves or the beginning of flowering. You can cut hedges in a leafless state, giving them the desired shape.

REMOVING THE COVER

In March - April, they begin to gradually remove the shelters from roses, hydrangeas, rhododendrons, etc. The shelters are removed in layers, not abruptly, for 1 week. Then sanitary pruning is carried out.

FERTILIZER

Can be driven through melting snow. Spreading a thin layer of ash, peat, manure, chicken manure, you can get earlier snow melting and at the same time light top dressing with microelements or organic fertilizer. You can also apply mineral granular complex or spring fertilizers, which, gradually dissolving when the snow melts, will fall into the soil.

SPRING WORK WITH THE LAWN

Immediately after the snow melts, they begin to comb out the lawns, as well as their aeration (piercing). This is important for overgrown lawns (if not mowed in the fall) and to combat lawn snow mold.

CLEANING FLOWERS

After the snow melts, deadwood and fallen leaves are removed from the flower beds, the surface layer of soil between perennials is loosened and spring fertilizers are applied. If the flower beds are from annuals, then the soil is dug up on a shovel bayonet and complex fertilizer is applied to the topsoil. Planting of annuals begins no earlier than May 25th.

: WHAT TO DO FOR A COTTAGE resident IN JANUARY ...: Construction of a polycarbonate greenhouse and tips ...

Spring work in the garden

Work in the country after winter begins with the care of the garden. It is important not to miss precious time, since many activities need to be carried out before active sap flow and swelling of the kidneys. The health of trees and shrubs depends on how well the spring work in the garden is done.

Spring work in the garden

With the advent of spring, the first thing to do is to clear the garden of last year's foliage, windbreak and other debris that has accumulated over the winter. In plant residues, spores of fungal diseases and pest larvae can overwinter, so they are taken out of the site and burned. As the air temperature rises, winter shelters are gradually removed from trees and shrubs.

Before the start of sap flow, it is necessary to prune fruit and ornamental plants in the garden. Young seedlings, as well as ornamental early-flowering shrubs, are not pruned in spring; only damaged branches can be removed from them. For fruit trees, shaping and rejuvenating pruning is carried out.

Early spring is the time for the prevention of garden diseases and pests. Before the buds swell, the trees are sprayed with iron sulfate, Bordeaux liquid or urea to destroy the fungal pores. If an invasion of pests was noticed in the previous year, the garden is treated with Agrovertin, Iskra-Bio, or Fitoverm.

Tree trunks need protection in spring. After the winter, wind breaks and frost cracks may appear on them, which must be covered with clay mash or garden pitch. To protect against pests, trees are whitewashed with special paints, or "in the old fashioned way" they use lime mortar with the addition of copper sulfate.

Fruit trees are grafted in April. First stone fruits, and a little later pome fruits. As a scion, pre-harvested cuttings or material after early spring pruning are used.

In the spring, plants in the garden need top dressing. Dry nitrogen-containing fertilizers (urea, ammophoska, ammonium nitrate) are scattered around the perimeter of the crown. After that, surface loosening of the soil is carried out, closing up fertilizers. From organics, you can make an infused solution of chicken manure or rotted manure. After fertilization, the soil under the trees and bushes is mulched with humus.

Work in the garden in the spring does not stop even after the beginning of flowering trees. Recurrent frosts often occur, and fumigation of gardens with smoke bombs or bonfires is used to protect against them. A humid environment also helps to reduce the impact of low temperatures, so they put containers with water under the trees, spill the soil and wet the branches.

Work in the garden in spring

In the garden in spring, there is no less trouble than in the garden. During this period, it is necessary to carefully prepare the soil for planting vegetables in order to get a good harvest. As soon as the snow melts, the beds are cleared of debris accumulated over the winter. It is advisable to burn the waste outside the site to prevent the spread of diseases and pests wintering in them. They clean not only the soil, but also garden paths, on which garden debris accumulates and moss can grow.

After completing the cleaning, mineral fertilizers are applied. In the spring, urea, nitrophoska, ammophoska and other fertilizers containing potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen are used. When the soil dries out a little, compost or humus is added. After that, the beds are dug up or deeply loosened. During loosening, young shoots of weeds must be immediately removed, as well as pests encountered.

Spring work in the garden and vegetable garden includes activities to improve the structure of the soil. River sand, ripened humus, and small sawdust are added to areas with heavy soil. Clay is added to sandy soil to make it more moisture-intensive. If necessary, regulate the acidity of the soil. Lime, ash, or dolomite flour are added for deoxidation, and sulfur (70 g per sq.m), malic or acetic acid is used to increase the pH level (acidification).

When the soil is prepared and fertilized, beds can be laid out on the site. For planting early vegetables, artificial soil heating is created. To do this, the beds are covered with dark material (black agrofiber or polyethylene) about two weeks before sowing.

When working in the garden in spring, special attention should be paid to beds with strawberries and raspberries. Shelter is removed from strawberries, dead bushes are removed, the soil is loosened and mulched. Raspberries are tied to trellises and sanitary pruning is carried out.

In the spring, cold-resistant vegetables and greens are sown in the garden: radishes, peas, lettuce, sorrel, onions, early carrots, beets. These crops develop well and yield even when sown in cold ground.

In flower beds in the spring, division of the rhizomes of perennials is carried out. Plants with overwintering foliage are renewed by removing frozen and damaged shoots, and plantings of early-flowering bulbs are loosened. Complexes of mineral fertilizers are introduced into flower beds as top dressings. To prevent diseases, flower beds are treated with copper-containing preparations.

Lawn care after winter

With the advent of spring, the lawn comes to life. Already at a temperature of plus 5 degrees Celsius, the grass begins to grow and requires attention. As soon as the snowmelt begins, mineral fertilizers are scattered over the lawn, which are dominated by nitrogen: ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate, urea.

Cleaning the lawn begins after the soil dries. Leaves and debris are raked with a fan rake, after which scarification is performed. This procedure, also called "combing", is performed with a garden rake, a special hand tool, or a scarifier device. It is necessary in order to break the integrity of the dense grass turf, renew it, and enable young shoots to develop.

After stratification, it is necessary to carry out aeration - piercing the turf and the top layer of soil to saturate the soil with oxygen. Do this using a pitchfork, an aerator or special shoe covers.

After cleaning, potholes are clearly visible, which may remain from accidental movement on a damp lawn, or when the soil settles. If the turf layer is not broken, it is dug up and sand is poured under it. Damaged areas of the lawn are cut out with a shovel and removed, the resulting pits are also covered with sand. After that, they are sown to restore a uniform lawn.

Outcome

With the advent of spring, it is necessary to pay attention to the garden and prepare fruit trees and bushes for the new growing season. In the garden, you need to improve the quality of the soil so that the vegetables give a good harvest, and in flower beds, take care of perennials. Gardening in the spring is hard work, but the end result will be a well-groomed yard with strong, healthy plants.

The snow has melted, the first rays of the sun are beginning to warm the earth, and all gardeners and gardeners are already in the country. Many will ask themselves: What can be done at this time in the garden, because there may still be frost? Experienced gardeners will answer that the gardening season ends when severe frosts set in and starts as soon as the thermometer is positive. We will talk about the mandatory spring work in the country below.

• Trampling snow around trees. In this way, you can harm the roots of trees. The snow will melt longer, the roots will not be able to feed on useful substances, and the soil will also take longer to warm up.
• Scatter fertilizers, manure, peat, ash over the snow - it is better to do this in the fall, then the nutrients will enter the fertile layer, and not go deeper or evaporate with water.
• Upholstering snow and ice from branches, this method will only damage them and may leave them without a crop.
• Early planting of young, awakened seedlings.

Before moving on to any work in the garden, they make up a checklist in which they consistently draw up a work plan, taking into account the weather conditions.

TOP 10 spring jobs

Cleaning old leaves, branches

The first work in the garden is better to start with cleaning the leftovers in the garden. During autumn, a lot of foliage can attack, winds can cause different branches and grass. Therefore, cleaning is carried out with a rake with frequent teeth, which removes all plant debris, leaves and even possible pests wintering in them. If the garden was not dug up for the winter, then garbage collection with a rake will make it possible to make additional loosening of the compacted soil after snow.

Sowing green manure and fertilizing

Every year, when planting different crops, the soil becomes poorer, therefore, to fill it with nutrients, many use different types of top dressing and sowing green manure.

In early spring, as soon as the snow melts and all the garbage is removed from the site, frost-resistant green manure is sown. The soil is shallowly dug up, harrowed, made soft and fluffy so that the film that formed after the snow melted disappears. It was also convenient to sow green manure. Harrowing will increase the air and water permeability of the soil.

Most often, gardeners choose siderates that are sown in late autumn or early spring:

• rye;
• rape;
• mustard;
• oats;
• phacelia;
• buckwheat;
• legumes (peas, beans, vetch plant)

Green manure can be sown both in ordinary rows and randomly scattered throughout the site. The green manure shoots are mowed before they bloom, when they reach 8-12 cm. After that, they are evenly scattered over the site and the beds are dug up for sowing. Plant the first crops after mowing in 20-45 days, so that green manure has time to overheat.

Before digging up the garden, instead of green manure, other types of fertilizers are introduced, namely: rotted manure, litter, peat, leafy or soddy soil, compost, urea, saltpeter.

Trimming trees, shrubs

Early flowering and early varieties of trees and shrubs are cut first:

• apricot;
• plum;
• Cherry;
• cherries;
• gooseberry;
• currant;
• pear;
• Apple tree;
• peach.

Ornamental perennials, conifers are also cut.
Carry out pruning of old, frozen, cracked trunks and shoots. In the spring, it will be necessary to carry out not only sanitary pruning, but also forming. So gooseberry bushes, currants, yoshtas are pruned every 3-5 years. In pears, apple trees, first cut large branches and shoots growing inward. Then, on annuals, the 3rd part of the shoot above the bud is cut off, fruiting branches are formed.

Pruning is carried out before the start of sap flow. Dates may vary by region. A stable weather to warming of at least +5 degrees should form.

Before pruning, a garden pitch is prepared, which will need to cover up the cut points, as well as sharpen the tool (saw, pruner) and treat with a disinfectant. It is not worth cutting the same trees every year, otherwise it will come to its weakening and death.

Spraying against pests

During the spring, experienced gardeners spray 3-4 times, this can significantly reduce the number of pests on the site.

Spraying is carried out starting from March, at a positive temperature in the daytime, so that the preparations dry up on the branches and suddenly a frost does not damage them at night. The difference between the procedures should be at least 7 days and not more than 14.

• The first spraying, as soon as the snow melted - with Karbofos, Aktelik, Bordeaux liquid, copper sulphate.
• The second, when the kidneys swelled - Nitrofen, Hom.
• The third, when the buds began to bloom and the leaves are already forming - Aktara, Bazudin, Chlorophos.
• The fourth full blooming of leaves and flowers - Inta-Vir, Bordeaux liquid, Fitoverm.

In spring, not only the trees themselves are sprayed, but also the soil around them: many pests live in the soil. Gardeners, after spraying from a number of diseases and pests, spill the soil with various disinfectants: a solution of manganese, iodine, fluff, but only if frost is not expected.

Such treatment will reduce the population of awakened pests and protect plants from damage and diseases: aphids, weevil, sawfly, whiteflies, cherry and iris flies, May beetle, bronzovka, leafworm, spider and fruit mites.

Trunk whitewashing

In the middle lane and southern regions, whitewashing is carried out until the first days of March, in colder regions - until April. Before the procedure, the bark is first cleaned of dirt and dried parts with a brush. They whiten the trunks with slaked lime, adding complex preparations from pests and diseases. The age of shrubs and trees is taken into account, so it is better to whitewash young plants with smooth bark up to 3–5 years old with special paints, because the fluff will leave a burn. Spring whitewashing should be larger, like an autumn safety net.

What can be whitened, except fluff:

• Concord-Ost;
• Arbo-Flex;
• Gardener;
• paint Luck;
• Michurinka-2;
• Green Square.

Some new paints, especially acrylics, protect trees better and last longer. Whitening the trees, they avoid covering the cut points, they are covered with garden pitch. And also do not cover sleeping kidneys, but paint with whitewash around them with a thin brush.

Preparing a greenhouse and picking seedlings

Preparatory work in greenhouses begins at the end of February:

• Inspect the structure and containers for seedlings for damage, underheating, rot. If shortcomings were found, then they are eliminated, holes are closed, boards, oilcloth, containers are changed.
• The premises are cleaned with disinfectants, glass, film are cleaned, soil is spilled with manganese, bleach or fumigated with sulfur vapor.
• Partial soil replacement. The top layer of 5–8 cm is removed, nutrient mixtures of peat, leafy, soddy soil, black soil, peat, biohumus, compost, rotted manure and litter are introduced from above.
• After that, the soil in the greenhouse is dug up, the boulders are finely crushed.
• The prepared soil is treated with boiling water to thaw the bottom layer of soil and kill the remaining pests.

After preparing the greenhouse, after a few days, planting material is sown or seedlings are dived, which were grown in room conditions. Picking is carried out for different cultures. To do this, the tip of the root is cut off to stimulate the growth of the lateral and form a strong stem. Seedlings dive when the real, first 2-3 leaves appear. Before manipulation, the seedlings are watered so that the soil is soaked and it is easier to get the seedlings out of it. After picking for 7-10 days, the growth of seedlings stops: the root mass grows. After the growth of a large number of lateral roots, the plant begins to grow sharply, and the stem becomes stronger.

Sowing resistant crops in open ground

In warm southern regions, sowing is carried out from February, in the middle lane, the Moscow region - from March, cold regions - from April to early May.

What to sow? Which crops will not freeze if there is a temperature difference? Such questions concern many novice gardeners.

They will respond most favorably to early sowing and well-moistened soil after snow:

• sorrel;
• black onion, sevok;
• parsley;
• Dill;
• garlic;
• celery;
• fennel;
• basil;
• radish;
• radish;
• carrot;
• peas;
• beans;
• parsnip;
• potato;
• spinach.

The optimal time for planting these crops is when the soil warms up to + 5 ... 7 degrees. At this time, it is better to follow the weather forecast in order to have time to cover the soil with oilcloth for the night, if there are suddenly frosts on the soil.

Grafting work

Work on grafting trees and shrubs is carried out from March to early June. Scion (cuttings) are prepared in the fall. The main condition is that the buds have not yet blossomed. Before grafting work, they prepare garden pitch, electrical tape, oilcloth, sharp knives and secateurs, treated with alcohol or other disinfectant, and decide on the method of grafting. Stone fruit trees are grafted from the beginning of March, especially early varieties. Pome species from April, starting with early varieties, and closer to June - late varieties.

Spring vaccination methods:

• budding;
• improved copulation;
• in a split;
• for the bark;
• in an oblique side cut;
• ablactation.

Spring vaccination will quickly show whether it was done correctly or not, often such plants are stronger and bear fruit in the second year.

Removal of shelters

With the onset of a consistently warm temperature, excluding night frosts and sharp drops, from April they begin to remove shelters from fruit bushes and various ornamental shrubs and flowers. After the shelter has been removed, the bushes are inspected for the presence of pests, diseases and damaged shoots.

Sanitary and formative pruning is carried out, after which they are sprayed with fungicide and insecticide. After processing at night, the bushes are again covered with burlap or film. Within a few days, they remove the shelter, and cover it again at night. Thus, the plant is stimulated to awaken the kidneys. When they germinate, the shelter is completely removed, the soil around the shrub is shed with a phytocomplex from pests and fungi.

Renovation of flower beds and lawn

In spring, special attention is paid to broken flower beds, especially if early varieties of flowers (primroses) were planted there.

• Last year's foliage is carefully removed from the flower beds. It is better to carry out this procedure manually so that the rake does not catch the breaking sprouts.
• Loosen the soil around the sprouts with a small rake and mulch the compost or rotted manure.
• If roots or bulbs are exposed, sprinkle with soil and compact.
• For climbing plants, put props.

They also plant new flower beds or sow flower seeds. Open hilled irises, peonies, hydrangeas, roses, hostas, chrysanthemums, roses. You can sow stable flowers from the end of March: nasturtium, calendula, marigolds, forget-me-nots, escholcia, poppy, kosmeya.

There is always more work with the lawn in the spring, usually after the snow has melted, bald patches and yellowed spots form on it. Would need:

1. Make a drain for melt water.
2. Level and roll the lawn. After the snow melts, bumps may appear in some places.
3. Comb out dead parts and caked dried grass, leaves.
4. Pierce the lawn in different places for additional air and nutrients.
5. In this way, the lawn is aerated, which solves the problem of further dampening of pieces of the lawn.
6. Seeding a new lawn to fill bald spots.

After the resuscitation of the lawn, it is watered with warm water with fertilizers or pest control agents.

When all the preparatory work has been completed, they proceed to the main ones: planting and sowing other more heat-loving crops, ornamental plants, flowers, and planting seedlings of shrubs and trees.

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Competent work in the spring in the garden and vegetable garden are very important agrotechnical measures that allow you to perform the correct planting and get the highest possible yield.

Spring work in the garden and garden: when and where to start

Be sure to check and prepare for the upcoming season.

A number of activities are also required, including cleaning, pruning, removal of shelters, prevention, preparation for grafting and planting. As a rule, in the southern regions, such work can begin as early as March. In the middle zone of our country and the northern regions, the deadlines are shifted by a couple of weeks.

gardening in spring

It is necessary to start carrying out the first spring work in the garden with the onset of the first warm days and after the majority of the snow cover has melted.

Garden cleaning after winter

Cleaning consists in removing all plant debris, as well as revision of the soil and garden plantings in the country. It is early spring - the period of the appearance of the first weeds. Roots that are not yet strong enough are easily removed from moist spring soil. The first warm spring days provoke active growth of shoots not only on the soil, but also on the surface of garden paths, which should be thoroughly washed with a strong jet of water from an ordinary garden hose.

Should be remembered that any spring activities related to water should be carried out only at positive temperatures, which will prevent the formation of ice. All planting containers, as well as flowerpots, planters and flower pots intended for growing plants in the coming season, also need revision, high-quality cleaning, and, if necessary, restoration of integrity.

Work in the garden in early spring (video)

Pruning fruit trees and shrubs

In the spring, in most cases, sanitary cleaning is carried out, as well as removal of all old and redundant shoots and branches:

• annual raspberry shoots need to be crowned by cutting off the top five buds, which allows you to stimulate the formation of new root shoots. All frozen weakened shoots are subject to removal;
• currant bushes thin out in spring. On chokeberry, branches older than seven years are removed. On bushes of red and white-fruited currants, branches older than ten years should be cut. You also need to cut out excess root shoots and weakened shoots. All frozen tops are cut;
• starting from the age of three, it is required to thin out gooseberry bushes, as well as remove old branches and excess shoots, which improves the illumination of fruits and increases productivity;

• it is necessary to do spring pruning of bushy varieties of cherries very carefully, removing thickening and old branches, taking into account fruiting on last year's peripheral branches. It is best to shorten in the summer, after fruiting;
• the annual spring formation of fruit plantations allows maintaining the habitus and improves insolation of the aerial part. Any molding must be done with the determination of the direction of growth processes of skeletal branches;
• plums are best grown in stems, as bushy forms thicken faster and become less fruitful. Formation begins almost immediately after planting seedlings in a permanent place, which will create a productive crown by four to five years.

It is possible to form a crown of fruit trees in a tiered-sparse, horizontal or saucer-shaped, as well as a vertical or palmette version.

Rules and terms for removing winter shelters

or special designs must be inspected, thoroughly cleaned and rinsed.

After the winter shelters dry out, they can be stored until the autumn cold. From the garden area, always old and cut branches in the process of spring formation, fallen leaves and withered grass, as well as any other debris of plant and non-plant origin.

March in the country: protecting plants from sunburn in early spring

In the first decade of March, the illumination increases, therefore, during the daytime, the stem part and branches of garden plantations are able to warm up significantly, therefore, during night frosts, the heated wood dies off. Darkening, peeling and cracking are observed on areas with sunburn.

Whitewashing the trunk and branching of skeletal branches can effectively reduce the heating of the bark. It is best to whitewash garden plantings in the fall or in the last decade of February, choosing a dry and sunny day for this purpose. Before proceeding with processing, it is necessary to revise the plants and, if necessary, take preventive or therapeutic measures. Whitewashing can be done with acrylic water-dispersion paint "VD-AK 0508" or "Dekoprof" means. It is also allowed to tie the stem part with white parchment.

How to process trees in spring (video)

How and how to treat trees in the spring from pests

The processing time varies depending on the type of plants and the composition of the solutions used for spraying:

• prevention of fungal diseases, damage by mosses and lichens before bud break, copper sulphate, diluted at the rate of 100-150 g per bucket of water;
• spraying the vine and soil around before bud break from bacterial cancer, spotted necrosis and anthracnose with iron sulphate at the rate of 200 g per bucket of water;
• mandatory processing of garden plantings before flowering from California scale insects, suckers, mites, weevils and flower beetles "Iskra-M", "Fufanon", "Iskra-double effect", "Karbofos", "Aliot" or "Biotlin";
• processing currants with "Commander", "Bison", "Tanrek", "Iskra Zolotoy" or "Inta-Vir" on blossoming buds and first leaves;
• processing gooseberries with "Topaz" or "Soon" before flowering.

It is also necessary to spray peach, apricot and cherry in order to protect against maniliosis, curliness and clasterosporiasis with "Horus", "Cuprolux", "Abiga-Peak" or "Ordan" after flowering.

Grafting and planting trees

As a rule, by the first decade of May, the planting of fruit and berry trees and shrubs is already over, and the time for grafting has come. It is best to perform such an event when the buds swell and slightly begin to open on the selected rootstocks. Spring grafting can be done in several ways:

• Copulation;
• butt;
• split;
• saddle;
• In a side cut.

Regardless of the method used, a prerequisite for obtaining a good result is the use of high-quality tools and a special grafting tape.

Things to do in the garden in spring

In the spring, it is time for the main preparatory activities in the garden and in greenhouses. During this period, you need to pay attention to winter crops, perennial crops, as well as prepare open ground ridges and in greenhouses for planting and sowing.

Main activities

The garden is cleared of debris and plant residues. It is also required to remove all the shelters that covered winter crops and the least cold-resistant garden crops for the winter period.

As soon as the greenhouse soil warms up, it is necessary to dig it into one bayonet of a shovel. At the same time, the main fertilizers are required:

• about 5–6 kg of high-quality humus is applied to cucumber ridges for each square meter, with the addition of 50 g of any complex fertilizer and a couple of glasses of wood ash;
• on ridges prepared for growing tomatoes, peppers and eggplant, the dose of humus will need to be halved;
• when preparing “warm ridges”, the top 15 cm of soil should be removed, after which the biomass should be laid and sprinkled with a layer of fertile soil.

In the same period, film garden structures should be prepared. The time of stretching the film cover on the greenhouses must be calculated in such a way that in the last ten days of April it would be possible to sow the most cold-resistant and early ripening garden crops.

Important check the condition of the aerial part of the garden berries and replace the old mulch layer. It is best to use organic matter as mulch, presented:

• sawdust;
• compost;
• tree bark and chips;
• straw;
• rotted leaves.

A good result is the use of a mulching covering fabric. In March or April, garden soil is fertilized with complex universal fertilizers "Nitroammofoska" or "Azofoska".

When to start planting in the country

Sowing and planting cold-resistant garden crops should be done while the soil is still in a soft and plastic state. During such a period, the soil is already warm enough and contains the amount of moisture that is optimal for the growth and development of crops.

It is recommended to dig the earth immediately before sowing or planting, which will not allow moisture to evaporate. If necessary, all dug-up ridges, in order to preserve moisture, must be covered with plastic wrap before sowing, which is fixed with stones.

How to prune berry bushes in spring (video)

The harvest will depend on how correctly and in a timely manner the entire volume of spring work in gardens and orchards will be carried out. That is why the spring period is the most responsible time for everyone who is engaged in private gardening and vegetable growing.