How to insulate a balcony in winter. We analyze possible options for insulation of the balcony from the outside

Warming a balcony or loggia is a rather laborious, not fast process. Usually it is performed by professionals who specialize in this type of work. But if you know how to insulate balconies from the inside with your own hands, you have the necessary tools available and are not afraid of work, then this is a completely feasible task.

Moreover, the area of the balcony is usually small and with a competent formulation of the case and adherence to the technology of work, and especially, using plates of insulation material "penotex", this process will not last long.

Preparing the balcony for insulation

Usually balconies and loggias are insulated from the inside with their own hands. External insulation of the balcony parapet is rarely used, since it is not only dangerous in terms of work, especially if you live on the upper floors of a high-rise building, but may require special permission from local authorities that oversee the appearance of building facades.

No permits are required for insulation from the inside.

Answering the question how to properly insulate a balcony from the inside? A number of conditions must be met and the order of work must not be violated. First of all, the balcony is freed from the things and plants on it, building materials and other things that can interfere with work. After that, cracks, cracks, holes in the places where the parapet dock with the wall, and in general wherever you notice flaws, are carefully sealed with polyurethane foam or cement mortar.

This must be done because otherwise, in an unfavorable cold wind, even a very good insulation can freeze through, it will be even worse if rain water or snow gets into the cracks. For most types of modern heaters, water is not terrible, mold does not develop on them, and they practically do not absorb moisture. But on brick or panel walls, moisture accumulated between the wall and the expanded polystyrene plate can serve as a place for the development of mold. Then an unpleasant smell of dampness may appear on your insulated balcony or loggia.

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After this stage, you can start actually doing the insulation with your own hands.

Ceiling insulation

It would be technologically more correct and better to start work with do-it-yourself insulation of the ceiling of a balcony or loggia, then go to the walls and complete the work with floor insulation. Depending on the type of insulation you have chosen and its thickness, the ceiling may become lower by up to 10 cm.If you have plastic windows already installed on the balcony, you will either have to sacrifice the upper part of the windows, since the PVC profile rarely exceeds 50 mm in width, or use a thin insulation material , which will not achieve the effect you expected. Therefore, if the windows are not installed, first insulate the balcony ceiling and only then call the measurer.

Currently, there is no question of how to insulate the balcony inside. The choice of different types of insulation is great. Depending on the selected insulation (mineral wool, polystyrene, expanded polystyrene "Penoplex", penofol), it can be installed both on a pre-assembled wooden lathing or directly on a balcony slab. It is possible to insulate with mineral wool mats only using a wooden crate, otherwise it will not be possible to fix it on the ceiling.

Selected sized wooden blocks equal in cross-section to the thickness of the insulation you have chosen can be attached to the ceiling using plastic dowels and long self-tapping screws. The distance between the bars must either exactly match the width of the insulation plate, or be 30-40 mm. already, if mineral wool mats are used so that they enter the space between the bars with effort and do not fall out on your head during further work. It is better to lace them, passing a nylon rope between the bars with small nails stuffed in them.

If you carry out insulation with your own hands with expanded polystyrene or polystyrene, and in the future you do not expect to trim the ceiling with wooden "clapboard" or plastic panels (as an option for finishing material for the ceiling - plasterboard), then there is no need to arrange a crate. Plates of expanded polystyrene "penotex" are glued directly to the balcony slab, cleaned of paint layers, with any waterproof adhesive mastic used in construction and finishing works. It is better to use adhesives such as waterproof mastic or glue "liquid nails", because in the cold season, if the balcony located above is not insulated, the dew point will shift behind the insulation, and condensation will form there. Plates of expanded polystyrene do not require additional sealing of the joints, since they have grooves at the ends that prevent the formation of "cold bridges". But the joints between the foam plates can be sealed with polyurethane foam and glued with foil tape.

An additional layer of insulation material, which significantly reduce heat loss, is best done from a thin foil insulation penofol or izolon. In this case, the material is glued to the mounted plates of a thicker insulation, with the metallized side inside the balcony. All places where penofol sheets are joined are glued with foil tape. At this stage, the insulation can be completed, but you can lay a heating film, which is perfect for these purposes and works from a 220V electrical network.

Further do-it-yourself finishing depends on the availability of the material and its type, if these are plastic panels or "lining", they are mounted, either directly on the insulation plates, or on wooden blocks passed over it. It is better not to use a galvanized metal profile used for drywall structures, as it will freeze and moisture will condense around it.

If you did not use penofol as an additional insulation material, then you can plaster the surface of the foam or expanded polystyrene with your own hands, after gluing a reinforcing fiberglass mesh, and then paint it.

After completing the insulation and finishing of the balcony ceiling, proceed with the walls insulation. Only the parapet and the side walls of the loggia are subject to insulation. The room wall does not need to be insulated.

The whole process of wall insulation with your own hands is completely identical to the process of ceiling insulation, with the only difference that you can use a thicker insulation material, especially if the parapet is made of metal structures or has a thin wall of lightweight concrete.

A heat-heating film can also be laid over a layer of insulation laid on the parapet wall, but this is not at all necessary.

Floor insulation

This is perhaps the most time-consuming stage of work, because depending on the floor covering you choose, from which you will arrange a "clean" floor, there are two options for working: with a lathing device - if the floor is planned to be covered with such building material as boards, mineral wool is used or polystyrene, or without it - in the event that "penotex" expanded polystyrene is used.

Penotex boards have different densities. For work on insulating the floor of a balcony or loggia with your own hands, brand 45 will be most suitable.

It freely withstands the weight of an adult without bending, and on it you can directly arrange a concrete screed or lay any type of coating (laminate, linoleum, ceramic tiles).

After laying and gluing the foam polystyrene slabs "penotex" to the slab, just like on the ceiling, it is better to fix it at the corners of the slab with dowels - "fungi". A layer of foam foam is laid on top with the foil on top and then the cable of the "warm floor" system with elements of wiring and automation. The cable must cover at least 70% of the balcony floor area and be 50 mm away from the walls. After laying the cable, the floor is filled with either cement mortar or special leveling mixtures "self-leveling floor". You can also use a topcoat based on epoxy resins, which can be of the most varied colors and, after polymerization, can be used as a "clean floor" without any additional treatment. Before pouring the screed, a 20 mm thick damper tape must be installed around the perimeter of the balcony to prevent thermal deformation of the screed.

No one can guarantee that when the temperature drops sharply, the coolant (water) in them will not freeze and they will not burst. But you can become the culprit of a serious accident and you can leave the whole entrance without heat.

Conclusion

Insulation of the balcony from the inside, although laborious, but the effect that is achieved by insulation can fully justify all your efforts. Such a balcony becomes not only a resting place in the warm season, but also an excellent room for growing indoor and garden flowers, seedlings of garden plants.

To create a comfortable functional room in the loggia, it is necessary to carry out work on its high-quality insulation. A variety of materials are presented on the market today, so it is possible to insulate the loggia with mineral wool, expanded polystyrene, foam and other types of insulation. The choice of insulation depends on many factors. It is very good if there is an opportunity to consult with experts on this matter.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool insulation is the traditional and most common option.

This material can provide a sufficiently high level of thermal insulation and sound insulation.

At the same time, it is recommended to use mineral wool for insulation only if there is no load on the insulation. In addition, the insulation material must be protected as best as possible from the effects of moisture and the formation of condensation on it.

Mineral wool insulation works are carried out in the following sequence:

First, all surfaces insulated from the inside are waterproofed. This stage is preliminary. To create a high-quality waterproofing layer before insulation with mineral wool from the inside, it is best to use special insulating impregnations. They can be bitumen and polyurethane mastic, special paints and varnishes. In addition, rolled polyethylene materials (sold in any hardware store) are often used as an insulator. What kind of insulator will be used does not really matter.
Then you need to complete the lathing device. The installation step of wooden blocks should be about 1 cm less than the width of the mineral wool sheets. In addition, you need to select the bars in such a way that their thickness is slightly greater than the thickness of the insulating material slab. The fastening of the elements of the lathing can be done to the rough surfaces with dowels and self-tapping screws.
To install mineral wool slabs, you need to select and dilute a suitable adhesive composition (which one is not important). It is applied to the surface of the slab from the inside, after which it is placed in the cell formed by the crate. The slabs need to be adjusted so that they are slightly larger than the mesh size. This will avoid unnecessary voids.
As soon as the adhesive composition dries, it is recommended to additionally secure the thermal insulation material with your own hands using dowels-fungi.
Surface cladding can be done with any suitable material. Any type of finish is suitable for this, which will not create a heavy load - plastic panels, plywood sheets, lining ...
In conclusion, surface finishing and decorative work are carried out. Work in this case can be performed with any finish.

Good results and reviews are given by the material ISOVER.

Expanded polystyrene

Warming your loggia inside with expanded polystyrene gives quite good results. This material is produced by mixing polystyrene and special foaming components. The mixture is heated, subjected to high pressure, then foamed and carbon dioxide is added.

For insulation of the loggia with expanded polystyrene, plates with a thickness of 45-50 mm are perfect.

Their fastening is carried out on dowels, double-sided tape and glue (which type of fastening to choose depends on the material of the walls). When insulating the loggia with expanded polystyrene from the inside, it is best to arrange the plates of the material in a checkerboard pattern so that they do not move under their own weight during operation.
In order to prevent the occurrence of cold bridges, seams, gaps and docking zones need to be filled with construction foam with your own hands (when insulating with expanded polystyrene and polystyrene, the problem of cold bridges is especially relevant).
As soon as the polyurethane foam dries, you need to cut off its excess with your own hands.
To provide additional insulation, which is required for insulation with expanded polystyrene and polystyrene, it is imperative to lay a layer of special polyethylene foam with a thickness of 5-8 mm. In this case, a layer with foil should be located inside the loggia. This approach will allow you to form a high-quality vapor barrier layer with your own hands and ensure heat reflection. The seams must be glued with construction tape with their own hands.
On the heat-insulating layer, you can fasten a wooden lathing (for this it is better to use small-sized bars that have been pre-treated with antiseptic compounds). In addition, instead of lathing, often from the inside, the loggia is trimmed with plasterboard sheets.
On a wooden crate or drywall sheets, any finishing materials can be applied with your own hands.

You can do without the lathing and use a mesh for reinforcement, for finishing.

Penoplex and penofol

Very often penoplex and penofol for insulation are used in one insulation system.

One of the best materials.

These are high-quality insulating materials that have a lot of positive performance and technical characteristics. Many experts recommend using them specifically for insulating loggias from the inside. The use of such a heater for a loggia will allow you to create a comfortable environment inside the room and maintain an optimal microclimate on the coldest days.

Penofol for the loggia.

Insulation works using these materials are carried out in the following sequence:

First, do-it-yourself preparation of all insulated surfaces: floor, ceiling, walls, parapet. The old finishing material is completely removed, all traces and debris are removed. After that, you need to carefully check the integrity of the structures from the inside so that they do not have cracks, holes and other defects through which cold air can penetrate into the room. It is important that the loggia is completely sealed from all sides.
Then, vertical logs are installed. It is necessary to fasten the material with a certain step, the size of which will depend on the thickness of the insulation used.
Next, penofol is attached directly to the lags. For this, you can use any suitable adhesives that are suitable for indoor use. During the installation of the initial foam layer, it is required to direct the foil outward.
After that, the installation of the penoplex is carried out (the best option for a loggia is a material with a thickness of 20 - 25 mm). Laying the slabs from the inside of the loggia can be done independently - there is nothing complicated in this process.
Finally, you need to glue another layer of penofol. In this case, the material must be positioned in such a way that the foil layer is directed inward. As a result, we will get a kind of cake, in which the main heat-insulating material (penoplex) will be protected with penofol on both sides.
All joints that arose during the installation work from the inside of the loggia must be glued with construction adhesive tape.

What kind of insulation material to choose for insulating a loggia?

You need to understand that do-it-yourself work on insulating the loggia can be done from the inside and outside. Of course, it is much easier to make insulation inside the loggia. For this, a wide variety of thermal insulation materials can be used. Their choice will depend on the design features, operating conditions, the nuances of the installation work, therefore, in each case, special attention should be paid to the choice of insulation.

The purchase of the most expensive insulation on the market will not always be justified.

For example, if the loggia has high-quality glazing, high-quality construction, and no defects are observed, then you can use the simplest materials. In addition, the choice of insulation for the loggia will depend on whether heating is planned.

Hide

Insulation of cold glazing is sometimes used, although usually this activity takes a lot of time and effort, but does not give the desired result, since in most cases it is carried out incorrectly. Before work, you should learn how to correctly insulate a balcony, making it a comfortable room.

What kind of glazing is considered cold?

Quite often, when purchasing an apartment, the owner is faced with what she already has. Often, the developer does not use expensive materials and installs cold glazing without insulating the balcony in any way. In this case, replacement of cold glazing with warm glazing may be relevant. , which will significantly improve the final result, as it will help eliminate heat loss that occurs precisely through the window frames.

However, you can improve and. Most often, aluminum frames act as it. Aluminum itself has a high thermal conductivity, so the room cools down quickly. Plastic double-glazed windows can also be cold. Most often this is a problem of single-chamber structures. This type of glazing can protect against precipitation, wind, dust, but it does not resist frost well. Therefore, the insulation of the cold glazing of the loggia or balcony plays a rather important role in creating a comfortable atmosphere in the house.

How to insulate a balcony with cold glazing?

How are the glass replacement works carried out?

Any work is carried out in several stages. This procedure is performed like this:

Calculation of the mass that the parapet can withstand. Glazing that is too heavy must not be used, as this can lead to the collapse of the structure.
It is quite easy to remove cold windows: this will require cutting off the foam, pulling out the glass, disconnecting other fasteners, if any. The frame can then be pulled out.
New windows are being installed. It is recommended to use plastic with double glazing. They usually do not weigh very much, while retaining heat well.
If you had panoramic cold glazing, then you can install plastic windows from the floor or build a parapet from lightweight materials, such as a gas block.
You can choose any windows according to the method of opening, it only depends on how much free space is on your balcony.
If you cannot install windows with a thick glass unit, you can put energy-saving glass on a thin one, they will help keep warm, while not increasing the mass of the structure.

Replacing the building is technically simpler and does not require special permits, therefore it is recommended to change the glazing to the same as it was in shape, with the only difference that a warm structure will be used. After the installation is done, you need to install glazing beads on the glass, adjust the fittings.

Insulation of cold glazing and its subsequent replacement with warm one is a waste of effort and money, since when dismantling old structures and installing new ones, the tightness will be broken. The finish can also be damaged, new cracks will appear in the seams. If you plan to make a warm balcony, it is recommended to start work with the replacement of glazing, and then carry out work on the insulation of structures. They are made in the same way as when insulating cold glazing.

Cold glazing is mainly used to protect the balcony from precipitation and drafts, but even with proper insulation, it is not able to protect it from frost. If you plan to make the balcony really warm and significantly raise the temperature inside it, it is recommended to immediately replace the cold frames with warm ones.

September 4, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works (laying of foundations, erection of walls, construction of a roof, etc.). Internal construction work (laying of internal communications, rough and final finishing). Hobbies: mobile communications, high technologies, computer technology, programming.

Recently, one of my acquaintances with an interesting name Gerasim (he has nothing to do with Mu-Mu, although he has been studying Russian literature all his life) asked me how to properly insulate the balcony from the inside. The fact is that he took out a mortgage on a two-room apartment with a huge balcony. And he had a great idea to convert it into an office where he is going to write his doctoral dissertation in philology.

I supported this sound idea with both hands and one leg. Moreover, if you do everything yourself , the price of such alteration will be small. And the advantages of an additional small room hardly need explaining to anyone.

Well, I'll get down to the presentation.

Possible problems when insulating a balcony

Before insulating the balcony inside, I recommend that you think carefully about all the pros and cons of such a solution. Despite the fact that more and more people are resorting to installing heaters before decorating this room, this operation has several disadvantages.

Here are the ones that I consider to be the main ones:

Reducing the usable area of the room. If just finishing already reduces the size of the balcony or loggia, then an additional layer of heat-insulating material further exacerbates the problem. Therefore, if this architectural element you have is tiny, think about whether the resulting additional area is worth the money and effort.
The appearance of condensed moisture inside structures. When using heaters, the dew point shifts inward, which leads to mold and deterioration of finishing materials.

This disadvantage, however, is easy to cope with. I will tell you how to insulate a balcony with your own hands from the inside so as to achieve an ideal microclimate inside.

Sequencing

The technology of insulating a loggia or balcony itself consists of several important stages:

Sealing cracks and eliminating defects. Before laying the insulation for the balcony inside, you need to get rid of all cracks, irregularities, potholes and bulges. I recommend blowing out small cracks with polyurethane foam (just choose a high-quality one), cement mortar will cope with more serious troubles.

Arrangement of waterproofing. For this, I always recommend that my clients use penetrating materials. For example, Avatron or Penetron. They are easy to spray, but you can also use a simple roller or brush.

The peculiarity here is that the liquid penetrates deeply into the mineral surfaces, as a result of which they are not only protected from water, but also do not freeze during operation at low air temperatures.

Penetrating waterproofing, among other things, eliminates minor defects that are not visible to the naked eye. But they still affect the effectiveness of insulation, so they need to be eliminated.

Thermal insulator laying. It's easy to do it inside with your own hands. You do not need to install scaffolding or call an aerial platform. The main thing is to follow the technology exactly, which I will discuss below.

When choosing materials for work, immediately think about whether you will insulate the floor and ceiling. For these surfaces, more durable heat insulators are needed that do not change their properties from external mechanical stress.

Arrangement of a vapor barrier. It is needed just in order to avoid condensation of moisture that forms on the balcony, inside the thermal insulation materials. For this, vapor-permeable polymer membranes are used, for example, Izospan or Rockwool.

By the way, you can avoid this stage by using heat insulators with a foil layer, placing it inside the balcony. But I, nevertheless, would recommend not to save. Moreover, the estimate of the vapor barrier membrane will not increase much.

Decorative finishing of the balcony. It all depends on your imagination, the amount of money and the purpose of the room. I cannot give specific advice.

Restrictions on the insulation of balconies

But I can tell you what absolutely cannot be done when finishing a balcony or loggia. Moreover, violation of these rules may entail administrative or criminal liability.

So, it is forbidden:

To demolish the load-bearing partitions between two balconies (loggias) or this room and the residential part of the apartment.
Install engineering communications on the balcony (in particular, heating, water supply and sewerage) connected to the common system of the apartment.
To equip a kitchen or bathroom on the balcony (although, as you understand, no one forbids an office or a bedroom).
Install glazing on balconies that are equipped with fire escapes to evacuate people during a fire.
Install suspended flower beds or clothes drying devices outside the balcony enclosing structures.
Reduce the height of the parapet of the balcony or loggia (by dismantling the upper part or raising the floor). The minimum parapet height should be 1.1 meters.
Violate the appearance of the facade of the building (this is for information, so by insulating the balcony from the inside with your own hands, you are unlikely to damage the exterior of the house).
Glazing the balconies above the 9th floor on their own, violating the fire safety requirements.

As you can see, not all of the listed requirements are observed by our compatriots, but my conscience would be troubled if I did not tell you about them.

Now a little about the materials that can be used.

Thermal insulators for internal insulation of balconies

A huge amount of materials are used for thermal insulation of such premises. I have compiled a table in which I have listed the most popular varieties, indicating the characteristics of each.

Name	Description
Expanded polystyrene	Dense material with a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, having a fine-grained porous structure. Do not confuse Styrofoam for insulation and packing foam. The latter has large pores and breaks down quickly. Not suitable for floor insulation, as it does not withstand the load applied. Can be used for cladding, wall and ceiling installations.
Extruded polystyrene foam	A material that perfectly retains heat indoors and, thanks to a special production technology, has increased mechanical strength. Microorganisms do not grow on the surface of expanded polystyrene, it is not flammable and environmentally friendly.
Penofol	Another name for the material is expanded polyethylene. For balconies, it is better to use insulation with a foil layer, which reflects thermal energy and prevents moisture from the insulation layer. Foil, among other things, acts as a vapor barrier membrane.
Polyurethane foam	A special composition that is applied to surfaces using special equipment. After hardening, it forms a homogeneous heat-insulating layer that prevents unproductive heat energy consumption and cooling of the balcony. The material is great for warming, but with your own hands you cannot cope with its application.
Mineral wool	Basalt fiber based material, which is excellent for insulating walls and ceilings of the balcony. To increase its effectiveness, it must be protected from moisture. It is impossible to insulate the floor with mineral wool, since it does not withstand significant mechanical stress.
Multilayer panels	We are talking about sandwich panels that are used both for insulation and for decorating a balcony. They have a beautiful top layer that does not require additional finishing. Thermal insulation is glued to the bottom, which reduces the thermal conductivity of the enclosing structures.

Methods for internal insulation of the balcony

At this point, I consider the theoretical part to be over and I will move on to presenting specific schemes for the internal insulation of balconies and loggias with the help of several, the most effective, in my opinion, materials.

Method 1 - Expanded polystyrene

The most common option is expanded polystyrene. It has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity and can be easily assembled with your own hands inside the balcony.

I am telling you how to insulate the balcony with expanded polystyrene from the inside:

After carrying out preliminary operations (sealing of cracks and waterproofing), I always treat the surface with a penetrating primer. It allows you to improve the adhesion properties of mineral surfaces, remove dust from concrete monoliths and reduce the consumption of adhesive.

Processing can be done with a regular brush or spray. Treat not only the walls very carefully, but also the ceiling and floor. Otherwise, later there will be difficulties when gluing polystyrene foam.

You can continue working after priming only after the composition has completely dried, which takes about 6 hours. If the walls of the balcony where I work are made of porous materials (for example, foam concrete), I always ground everything twice.
After priming, you can proceed with the installation of expanded polystyrene, which is supplied in slabs. Installation is carried out using glue and special fasteners with wide hats.

I prepare the adhesive composition from the purchased dry powder. It is necessary to mix it with water in the proportions indicated in the operating instructions, and then achieve uniformity using a mixer connected to a drill.

I apply the finished glue to the heat-insulating material, after which the expanded polystyrene sheet is glued to the wall. I do the same with other materials, placing them in a checkerboard pattern with overlapping joints.

To compensate for the thermal expansion of the material, during installation, I recommend that you move away from the corners of the order of 3 cm, and also leave small gaps between the plates themselves.

In order for the plates to adhere firmly, you need to fix them with dowels with plastic caps. To do this, with a drill, I make a hole in the expanded polystyrene and the wall, after which I install the corresponding bracket there.

Considering that expanded polystyrene does not absorb water, a vapor-permeable membrane can be omitted. Although I see no reason to buy and fix a special film on the surfaces.
The last stage is plastering. To avoid the destruction of the decorative coating, you must first fix a reinforcing fiberglass mesh on the expanded polystyrene plates, and then plaster over it. This is exactly what I do.

Before plastering, you can install perforated galvanized corners on the corners, which will facilitate work and protect the corners from damage during operation.

Method 2 - Penoplex

This material is also widely used for interior insulation of balconies. It can be mounted on walls using special bitumen mastic, construction foam or plastic dowels with wide caps.

I will tell you how I insulate with penoplex using polyurethane foam:

To begin with, as in all other cases, defects are repaired and the balcony surfaces are waterproofed. By the way, a primer will not hurt either.
After completing the preparatory operations, it is necessary to squeeze out the polyurethane foam from the perimeter around the perimeter of the pre-fitted foam board. No more foam is needed, the insulation will be securely fixed to the surface anyway.

After waiting a few seconds, you need to attach the material to the wall.
Further work is carried out using a similar technology. Naturally, I recommend displacing the seams in a staggered manner in order to avoid the formation of cold bridges, which reduce the effectiveness of the insulation work being carried out.
To keep the insulation stronger, it can be additionally reinforced with dowels with wide caps. Although this is not necessary.

If you, as my neighbor, want to equip a living space on the balcony, I recommend installing two layers of Penoplex insulation with overlapping seams. In this case, the balcony will be warm and cozy, and you will not have to spend a lot of electricity on heating.

The last stage is decorative finishing. Here I completely shift the responsibility for the choice of materials to you. Think for yourself, decide for yourself.

Method 3 - Mineral wool

Well, I can't help but tell you about the use of mineral wool insulation. I cannot say that they are very effective, but they are very popular. I focus on them only because the laying technology itself is more complex here.

The fact is that mineral wool is very soft and does not have rigid geometric dimensions as such. It is produced in the form of rolls into which the material is rolled with a thickness of 2 to 20 cm.

I recommend buying stone (basalt) wool with a heat-reflecting foil layer for arranging a balcony. The latter will effectively protect the insulator from humidification and will play the role of a reflective screen that traps the thermal energy of heating devices inside the room.

Taking into account the described technical characteristics, it is possible to mount the insulating material only under a pre-equipped crate made of wooden blocks or galvanized profiles. But this is good, since you can then install decorative cladding on the crate. For example, lining or plastic panels.

For example, I'll tell you about insulation using wooden blocks. It is better to take not square, but rectangular lumber with a section of 3 by 5 or 3 by 7 cm. This will save the useful area of the balcony.

The lathing can be installed in two ways:

horizontally - if later you will trim the balcony with plastic panels;
vertically - if you have chosen lining as a material for decorative finishing.

In all other cases (plywood, drywall, OSB boards, etc.), the direction of the sheathing elements does not matter.

I recommend fixing the lathing on all surfaces using anchor bolts. At the same time, make sure that the bars are installed at the same level, so that later you do not have problems with the decorative finish.

If you bought mineral wool to insulate the balcony, be sure to buy vapor-permeable membranes for it. The fact is that the fibrous material very much loses its heat-preserving functions after getting wet from water vapor coming from inside the room.

Having described all the important, in my opinion, nuances, I can now talk about the technology of the work. Everything is simple on paper:

install the crate, keeping an eye on the verticals;
insert heat-insulating material between the crate;
protect it from above with a polymer vapor-permeable membrane;
after that, mount the selected decorative coating.

Most often, the lining acts as the latter, which is why a crate is needed.

Floor and ceiling insulation

Having dealt with the walls, you can move on to the ceiling. For its insulation, I recommend using foam. Moreover, you need to buy an ordinary material for insulation and that kind, which is supplemented with a heat-reflecting foil layer, which increases the strength of the material and helps to keep heat inside.

Before starting work on the insulation of the balcony ceiling, ask the neighbors above if they have insulated their floor. If the answer to this question is yes, buy a beer to the owner as a token of gratitude and safely skip the next few paragraphs, moving to the floor (for this, by the way, you will later owe beer to the neighbor below).

You need to insulate the same way as the walls, using polyurethane glue and dowels. Only first you need to stick the first layer, and on top - the second, with a heat-reflecting surface.

The seams between the parts must be sealed with polyurethane foam, and at the end - glued with a special metallized adhesive tape. In this case, even a strong cold will not prevent you from creating an immortal masterpiece in your office on the balcony.

If, of course, you take care of the floor insulation, which I, for example, carry out as follows:

I clean the floor surface from the remnants of building materials, influx of cement, dirt, debris, glue, and so on;
I cover the floor with penofol;
on top I mount a crate of wooden blocks pre-cut with an electric jigsaw;
I install heat-insulating material inside the crate, sealing the cracks with construction foam;
I mount a sub-floor made of plywood or OSB boards;
on top I lay the floor covering (usually linoleum or laminate).

However, my neighbor - a future professor - wanted to make a heated floor in his balcony-study. So I had to tell him the order of work in this case:

on the reinforced concrete ceiling of the balcony, you need to make a screed with the help of a self-leveling mixture in order to level all the protrusions and irregularities;
on top of the hardened screed, a layer of heat-reflecting material with a heat insulator must be laid;
mount a heating electric cable on top, securing it with a special tape (you remember that water heating on the balcony cannot be done, which means a water-heated floor too);
pour another layer of cement screed on top;
Install the selected decorative flooring.

Decorative finishing of the balcony

I will conclude my story with a short story about how to finish the balcony after it has been insulated. Many different materials can be used for this:

plastic panels;
ordinary and decorative plaster;
wallpaper;
tile;
wooden lining.

Considering that I told you how to insulate a balcony with mineral wool, I will continue this topic. I will describe how you can install lining or plastic panels on the walls. The technology is very similar, since both of these materials are separate lamellas, connected to each other using a special system of tenons and grooves.

And there is really nothing to do here:

the first part is mounted on the installed crate, starting from the corner;
after that, all subsequent parts are installed.

I try to give preference to wood, as it is a natural material, but plastic is easier to work with, does not require additional finishing and is cheap.

Output

That's it, I will no longer distract your attention, because I think you can't wait to start insulating your own balcony. Or writing a dissertation in philology. By the way, I would be grateful if you write about the results of your efforts in the comments to this article.

And for those who are interested in other issues related to repair and decoration, I recommend looking video in this article.

September 4, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Loggia, from a constructive point of view, is perfect to become a full-fledged room or an extension of an apartment. To make this possible, it is necessary to carry out a number of construction and installation work on insulation, glazing, decoration. The result will be a cozy room for relaxation, a spacious living room, and an additional place to work.

The result of insulation may differ from the desired one, if several factors are not taken into account when choosing materials and technology of insulation works.

The first factor is the further purpose of the premises:

if it is supposed to have a utility room, then any insulation is used in one layer; mainly, only the part directly in contact with the street is insulated - the parapet;
the desire to have a separate full-fledged room will require the use of different types of thermal insulation materials, which are stacked in two layers over the entire surface of the loggia;
the option of combining a loggia and a room will also require two-layer insulation, but in this case, the main attention is paid to the parapet, and the walls are covered in one layer.

The second factor is the size of the loggia itself, since if it is small, then such insulation is selected, which, with a small thickness, has a sufficiently high thermal protection index. In this case, the usable area will be reduced slightly.

The third factor is taking into account the fact that any material from which the walls of the interior are made passes the moisture accumulated inside. This water vapor, colliding with the colder air of the street, settles on the outside of the wall. If this wall is insulated, it means that the insulation is covered with moisture, which leads to its rotting and a decrease in its thermal insulation properties. It is necessary that the water vapor does not reach the insulation.

Insulation materials

On the construction market there is a number of properties that you need to get acquainted with before properly insulating the loggia inside. What is attached to the consumer?

Mineral wool and all materials based on its production or basalt fiber are a very popular material with good indicators of thermal insulation, sound insulation and fire resistance. During service it retains its shape and structure, does not succumb to aggressive media and microorganisms, but is highly hygroscopic. Such high permeability requires careful waterproofing work. The disadvantages include the thickness of the material and the need to equip the lathing and hydro-barrier, which takes up the usable area.

Polyfoam is produced from polystyrene. It is chosen for its durability, low thermal conductivity, resistance to the influence of microorganisms, and low hydrophobicity. Self-extinguishing foam is suitable for insulating the walls of the loggia inside, since the usual one is very flammable.

Penoplex, Tepleks, Primaplex, Styroform, Ursaform, URSA, XPS - materials based on extruded polystyrene foam. They have the lowest thermal conductivity, which means the highest thermal insulation properties. These materials are durable, easy to install, provide good waterproofing and sound insulation.

Materials made of extruded polyethylene and covered with foil on one or both sides are suitable as insulation for the loggia: Penofol, Izokom, Tepofol, Izolon. Among all the listed heat insulators, its thermal conductivity is the highest. Therefore, it is used as an independent material for "cold" insulation or as a reflective material for interior walls. But its small thickness and high vapor permeability allows it to be used as a second layer of insulation.

Separately, it should be said about the material that is not produced in plates or rolls. which is sprayed like foam and creates a single heat-insulating surface. In all technical indicators, it surpasses other materials. The main disadvantage is high flammability with the release of toxic substances. Self-assembly is almost impossible, since a special installation for spraying is required.

Stages of thermal insulation work

Before insulating the loggia inside, a number of preparatory work is carried out:

glazing and sealing of all gaps between the frames and the wall, parapet;
surface preparation;
waterproofing.

Double-glazed windows with frames made of any material are chosen as glazing. They must be functional, have a ventilation mode and be light enough so as not to create additional load on the floor slab.

Walls, ceiling, floor are pre-cleaned of debris and other contamination, and the integrity of the surface is checked. If cracks and inter-tile gaps are found, they are filled with a sealant. Align if necessary.

An important approach to correctly and better insulating the loggia is to create a layer of waterproofing. For this, one or more materials are used, since it is necessary to waterproof the parapet and all external walls, floor, ceiling, frames.

Waterproofing materials include:

roofing material;
various types of coating, painting substances;
penetrating waterproofing;
folgoizolone.

Rolled waterproofing is glued with an overlap to the base, and the seams are sealed with a sealant, sealed with special tape or soldered, as is the case with roofing felt. When coated with foil-insulating material, an additional layer of thermal insulation is obtained. The use of coating, paint, penetrating insulation is justified in hard-to-reach areas and in the case when the dimensions of the room are very small.

After determining which insulation is best for the loggia and carrying out preliminary work, proceed directly to the insulation itself. There are two ways:

a continuous layer of heat-insulating material is created and any options for steam penetration to the insulation are minimized;
lining of insulation and covering it with a vapor barrier.

Warming methods

First.

In this case, materials with low vapor permeability are used: polystyrene, expanded polystyrene. Their thickness must be such as to create the required resistance to the passage of steam and, at the same time, be sufficient for the required thermal insulation. In the case of using tile insulation, the sequence of work is as follows:

tile glue is divorced;
glue is applied to the corners of the slab and in the center;
the plate is applied to the surface and holes up to 6 cm deep are drilled through it with a puncher for dowels;
through the drilled holes with the help of mushroom dowels, the final fastening is carried out, at least 5 dowels are used;
the next slab is also laid after checking the surface with the rule;
the seams between the slabs are sealed with assembly glue or glued with tape;
it is possible to lay a second layer of insulation, for example, penofol;
after laying all the sheets, fiberglass mesh is reinforced;
putty for leveling mesh texture.

Reinforcement is carried out in four stages:

the plates are treated with coarse grain sandpaper;
cover the slabs with glue up to 3 mm thick;
a fiberglass mesh with cells of 5x5 mm is pressed into the glue;
apply a second layer of glue over the mesh.

You can also use rolled thermal insulation materials, the installation technology will not change. In this case, pieces of insulation of the required size are cut off.
After such insulation, surfaces are obtained that are completely ready for painting, or any other decorative material.

Second.

For this method, there are no restrictions on the choice of insulation, since the technology provides for the creation of a vapor barrier between it and the decorative finish. Such insulation is carried out with the help of arranging a wooden crate or without it, but then the crate for PVC plates is made on top of the vapor barrier.

The lathing is made from wooden beams or metal fasteners and a profile. In the case of metal parts, heaters must be laid under them.

The height and width of the crate depends on the type of insulation:

for mineral wool, the beams are selected with a smaller width than its mats, so that the laying is carried out with a roll;
it is advisable to lay several layers of cotton wool so as to cover the beams, then they will not become conductors of cold;
for polystyrene, all parameters of sheets and beams must match.

After laying the insulation in the crate, a vapor barrier material is attached to it with an overlap. It can be ordinary polyethylene, a membrane. All joints of the vapor barrier are glued with tape. If the lining with insulation was carried out without lathing, then profiles for mounting the finish are attached on top of the vapor barrier.

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