It is worth showing smartness, diligence, and - contrary to the well-known saying - it can turn out from a waste pipe a very good ... gardening equipment. Moreover, with minimal costs for its manufacture. The published material of the candidate of agricultural sciences S. Larkin from Moscow is a confirmation of this.
"SPADED SHELL"
I started gardening and horticulture in earnest about 6 years ago. Naturally, the appropriate inventory was needed. Among the descriptions of numerous self-made shovel designs - an indispensable in the economy "a blade projectile for digging, raking out, filling and pouring loose bodies" (definition from V. Dahl's Explanatory Dictionary, which has not lost its value over more than a century of its existence) - attention was attracted by the publication in the third issue "MK" for 1985.I liked the idea itself: the possibility of using a section of a water-gas pipe with a coupling for attaching the blade (bayonet) of a spade-hoe to the handle. They were not satisfied only with the complexity of the execution and the reduced, judging by the dimensions taken as a basis, the reliability of the fastening pin and the binding to the Czechoslovak assortment of used factory-made parts.
The design I have developed is free from these disadvantages. As in the above-mentioned prototype, the body of the swivel assembly in the proposed spade-hoe is a pipe segment. A steel water and gas pipe (GOST 3262-75) with an outer diameter of 33.5 mm and a wall thickness of 2.8 mm is best suited from the domestic assortment. The blade (bayonet) is made from a spent digging rectangular shovel KPL (GOST 19596-87) shortened to R-210 mm with a modified sleeve.
The revision consists in the fact that the latter is cut to 57 mm, and on the inside, cheeks are welded on from sheet steel grade St.3 with a thickness of 5-6 mm. You can use the scraps left over from shortening the shovel. A hole with a diameter of 14 mm is drilled in the side of the tunic for the axle made of steel St.3.
As in the prototype, for rigid fixation of the bayonet in any of the three positions, it is enough to turn the threaded sleeve all the way into the corresponding ends of the cheeks.
A different tool can be recommended for older people. Using it, you no longer need to continuously "bow" when digging a vegetable garden or garden plot. Here comes a thrust stand "shod" in a rubber "shoe" with a bracket and a special rotary device made in the form of two clips of pipe sections with corresponding parameters sliding relative to each other. To make it easier to bury the bayonet in a pound, the shovel is equipped with a wooden handle in a metal (from a wedged piece of pipe) holder and has a slightly modified plane of the blade itself.
The basis of the design is, again, the KPL shovel. Only the canvas is no longer shortened. And so that it enters the ground deeper and with less resistance, without sliding off the cut roots of the forest growth on the site, its cutting end is performed not smoothly rounded, but trapezoidal. Moreover, the plane of the blade itself, without touching the edges of the spade, is straightened with a hammer. The resulting teeth, rectangular in cross-section, are sharpened at an angle of 20 degrees and heat-treated to a hardness of 37 ... ... 53 HRC.
But making such a shovel is still half the battle. It is important to learn how to work with it. Taking the end of the cutting with your right hand, with your left foot, the blade is buried in the ground (approximately at an angle of 70 degrees). Then the cutting is pushed away from itself until the moment when it stands perpendicular to the soil. And then, pressing the stubborn stand to the ground, the handle of the shovel is sharply pulled (with a turn) towards itself. As a result, the next portion of the soil seems to be thrown forward by itself.
Such a shovel is very convenient when digging potatoes and other root crops. Dip the bayonet at a right angle next to the plant bush. Then move the handle slightly towards you and again sharply take it forward: to a position perpendicular to the ground. Now, with your left foot, press the stop stand and, with a slight turn of the handle, throw the tubers towards the harvested row.
LIGHTWEIGHT RAKE HELPS OUT
Extremely necessary on the farm and a rake. For many centuries of its existence, their design has undergone few changes. And modern rakes are essentially the same (according to V. Dal) "hand harrow, consists of a ridge, a bar in arshins, with through holes, up to 12, into which teeth are driven, pegs into a finger, and the rake is akin to a stick in the height of a person stuck in the middle of the ridge. "True, the wooden rake is now almost nowhere to be seen. Instead, they usually use welded, metal ones. But, for example, they do not always suit me. After all, the options produced by the industry are, as a rule, heavy. Even with light pressure, they immediately burrow into the ground and can break off the surface roots of plants. That is why I prefer to use a homemade rake of an almost archaic wooden structure.
Fastening - tubular. It is based on the same wedged section of a water-gas pipe of the corresponding standard size. Pipes with an outer diameter of 33.5 mm (or 26.8 mm) are preferable, which are successfully mated with cuttings d = 40 (or d = 30) mm and a length of 1300-1600 mm entering our distribution network. In order to avoid unwanted cracking during wedging, it is also necessary to provide for technological holes in the nodes of possible stresses in advance, threatening the appearance of cracks and breakages.
There is also a special device for the rake, the design of which is so simple that it does not need explanatory drawings and drawings. It is a plate, cut from a piece of an old saw, with a base of 570 mm, a sidewall height of 35 mm and a central part converging in the form of an isosceles triangle. The top of this triangle is 120 mm from the base.
The device is attached to the rake teeth with a lining screwed on the other side with M-6 “lambs”. And it serves to destroy the weeds that appear on the beds shortly after sowing. Carrying out weeding, weeds are first cut with the help of a device. And then, removing it from the teeth, they collect all this "biomass" with a rake and loosen the surface layer of the earth.
LOOPING WILL BECOME EASIER
It is often necessary to loosen the soil in the garden or in the vegetable garden. And the equipment produced for this purpose by the domestic industry is often made in such a way that the worker has to bend over every now and then. Can't we do without it?Of course you can. An example of this is two designs of rippers, which also successfully perform additional functions.
The ripper-digger is made of sections of water and gas pipes with an outer diameter of 26.8 mm, hinged to each other. The dimensions of the arcuate pedal, as well as the rotary handle-stand, depend on the characteristics of the figure of the worker himself. It is even possible to provide for the implementation of the arm-stand sliding. Let's say, from telescopic pipes entering one another. The teeth are made of steel grade St.Z according to the dimensions shown in the figure, and are reinforced in the holes of the crosspiece by riveting the back of the necks with a diameter of 8 mm. The abutment is performed and installed in its place in the same way. But its tip is deliberately blunt for the convenience and safety of the worker.
The method of using a ripper-digger is not much different from working with a rotary shovel with a support stand. Pressing the arcuate pedal, the gardener tilts the handle-stand towards himself: the recessed cross-bar with teeth easily turns out another clod of earth.
For the manufacture of a ripper-digger, sections of water and gas pipes are also required, but already of a slightly different assortment. And the working body here is a kind of drill made from the blade of an old two-handed saw. The shape of the head is triangular, point downward. On the sides, it has small, bent in opposite directions cutting edges with a sharpening angle of 20 degrees (not shown in the illustration). And in the upper part there are three appropriately bent wedge-shaped sections. This trinity is formed by cuts with subsequent turns: the central one - against, the rest - clockwise. The lateral sections in the upper part act as dumps-guides for the soil cut off by the tips, and the central one serves for reliable fastening of the head to the rivets in the eyelet made at the lower end of the rack. The head is heat-treated to a hardness of 37 ... 53 HRC.
The ripper-digger has proven itself well for planting potatoes. It can also be used to make holes when planting flowers of the bulbous family. It should be remembered: the planting depth depends on the type of plant, but on average they adhere to the rule of "three times" the height of the bulb.
Planting depth refers to the layer thickness above the bulb, not the distance from the bottom of the fossa or furrow to the surface. On heavy clay soils, it is reduced to 2-3 cm, and on light, sandy soils, on the contrary, it is increased by the same 2-3 cm.
ROOF-FREE CROWBAR
If we proceed from the fact that genius is always simple, then one should, apparently, recognize the typical construction of a scrap known to all as a model of super-genius. But there are other considerations as well.
The fact is that ordinary scrap has a rather tangible return, especially if the soil is rocky. You will work and, as they say, you cannot feel your hands. And for some reason, the production of "recoilless" scrap in our industry has not yet been established, although there are a lot of various designs offered by home-builders. They are usually based on a pipe closed with tips with coarse lead shot poured inside (by one third of the cavity volume). The latter extinguishes the reflection occurring at the moment of impact. But it does it in part - due to the friction of the pellets against each other and on the inner walls of the scrap body. In addition, the pellets themselves gradually lose their shape and wear out.
In the proposed construction of scrap, the pellets have a diameter of 2-3 mm each and are abundantly moistened with machine oil. On top of that, the shape of the handpieces optimally matches the stresses that arise during operation. And this is important. After all, the impact force here is greater than that of a conventional scrap, magnitude.
"Modelist-Constructor" 8/91
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Good day, dear readers.
Today we will talk about how to make an improved version of the shovel with your own hands.
A shovel is undoubtedly an integral part of any summer cottage.Without it, work on the site would be impossible for many, but you must admit that it is not easy to endure with it, suppose a lot of land: you get tired of bending over and the shovel now and then wants to turn over in its hands, however, it costs a little improve the structure of the shovel and the problems will disappear.
The authors of this material took care of this.
For modification we need:
◘ Soviet shovel.
◘ Welding.
◘ Riveting.
◘ Hook.
◘ Iron rod.
◘ A little time and consumables.
Step one: it is necessary to attach a handle to the end of the lean, as on an ordinary bayonet shovel, and just before the scoop, strengthen a kind of support.
Step two: Bend the iron bar as shown in the picture and equip it with a wooden handle. The most convenient size of the device is adjusted by trial and error.
Step three: attach to the shovel with a hook screwed into the handle. Done, you can use and enjoy your creation.
Thank you for your attention, I hope the article was useful for you and you will use it in practice.
Probably, even if you want to find a farm that lacks this garden tool, it is hardly possible to do this. The shovel has become an integral part of our life, without which it is impossible to carry out construction or gardening work. People learned to use this tool for a long time, and since then the shovel has been constantly improved, reaching us in its modern form. If the main tool of labor of our ancestors was the "digging stick" known to everyone from school, made by craftsmen from scrap materials, modern shovels are made at specialized enterprises from special grades of steel. Titanium-doped alloys are now on sale to enable the tool to handle the toughest of soils without breaking. Modern products are produced with ergonomic handles that reduce the required effort when working.
Depending on the type of work performed, shovels are divided into several main types:
Choosing a bayonet shovel
The choice of a bayonet shovel must be approached very responsibly. A poorly chosen option can not only reduce productivity at work, but also undermine health. Before you go to the store, you need to assess the extent of the excavation work and the type of soil on the site.
Depending on the working conditions, it is necessary to choose the most optimal option. Of course, for different types of work it is better to have different forks of a bayonet shovel, but here you need to look at the possibility of acquiring them. Optimal size for bayonet shovel
Although, many workers believe that the size of the working part and the handle of the shovel are not of fundamental importance. However, this is not the case. The force required to perform the work depends on the correct selection of the size of the bayonet shovel. Too large working part (blade) of the shovel will turn out a large lump of soil, which is heavy. Having worked for a few minutes with such a shovel, a person of average build is guaranteed to get tired. On the contrary, a blade that is too small will require more operations to dig up the same area. Particular attention should be paid to the cutting. It should be of optimal length. In an upright position, the handle mounted on the bayonet of a shovel should not reach 10 cm up to the worker's shoulder. Although, this is a fairly average figure, and there are people who work quite well with short cuttings. Shovel careIn order for the shovel to serve for a long time and productively, it must be treated with care. After work, the remains of adhering soil must be cleaned off, and the tool itself must be removed to a well-ventilated place. Bayonet shovels are stored with the handle up. The exceptions are models that are equipped with a sealed glass. In this case, to remove moisture from it, so that it does not damage the wood of the cutting and the glass itself, the shovel is placed with the tip up. A blunt tool must necessarily be processed with an emery wheel, or a sharpening stone. If knots or chips appear on the handle, they are cleaned with sandpaper. With careful use and storage, even the cheapest bayonet shovel will last a long time. DIY bayonet shovel
The manufacture of shovels, as a rule, is carried out by specialized enterprises with industrial equipment. It is not cost-effective to produce bayonet shovels at home. Usually homemade "Kulibins" only modernize the factory version, making their work easier. One such project was proposed by an amateur gardener. According to him, such modernization will significantly save energy in the production of garden work. An ordinary bayonet shovel, dimensions according to GOST, manufactured at the factory, was taken as a donor. The essence of the modernization was to shift the point of effort to achieve better efficiency during operation. The tulle was cut off from the shovel using an ordinary grinder. Then a reinforced version of the tulle, of greater length, was made from the pipe. The fact is that a short attachment is often the reason for the breakage of the handle. The tulle was welded to the rest of the shovel, but not directly, but connected by a piece of strip that forms a step. The shank was chosen with a thickening in the area of attachment with the working part. This allowed to reduce the burden on the hands when digging. Thanks to the step, the digger's leg can apply force strictly in the center, which distributes the load on the entire point evenly, increasing the efficiency. In the proposed version of the product, the handle is not located on the same axis with the point, but is displaced 4 cm forward. Such a lever allows you to significantly reduce the effort when turning the soil. The fork handle, which crowns the handle, will allow you to easily turn the raised soil layer. There are homemade shovels with a half-wheel. Their shape is somewhat reminiscent of a rocking chair. When working with such a shovel, the half-wheel acts as nothing more than a fulcrum, thanks to which a person does not need to make significant efforts to lift the soil. However, such models are suitable only for garden work; it will be at least inconvenient to dig trenches with them. Bayonet shovel: photo
Bayonet shovel: video |
The shovel is the oldest invention of mankind, the design of which continues to be improved to this day. There are many varieties of shovels. So, only in the modern domestic GOST there are three main types of shovels (construction, gardening and loading and unloading) and 17 of their types.
Unfortunately, our industry produces only two ... three types of shovels, so many gardeners are forced to dig gardens not with garden shovels, but with construction shovels, spending more energy on unnecessary deep "squats". But garden shovels differ from construction shovels by the very little - at the first, the tulle is bent from the canvas by 10 °. But as a result, the worker does not have to squat low. And this is not a trifle if you imagine that when digging 1 m² of a vegetable garden, you need to do 50 ... 80 "squats". Now multiply these squats by the footage of your beds. (Let me remind you that the tulle is a part of the blade of the shovel, into which the handle is inserted. - Ed.)
Improvement of the bayonet shovel
I happened to work with different types of shovels of one purpose or another, including those made on the recommendations of the respected American professor Mittlider. And I came to the conclusion that the main drawback of all these shovels is the excessive force that the "excavator" has to apply when the shovel is buried in the ground and when the seam is raised. The fact is that it is more profitable to rest your foot in the center of the canvas, but the handle prevents this, so some of the effort is wasted.
When lifting a layer of earth with a shovel, the hand on the handle is at a fairly large distance from the canvas. And because of the large shoulder, the load on the arms increases.
I have little strength left, therefore, as the Russian proverb says: "Trouble will give birth to the mind." It is for this reason that new type bayonet shovel(fig. 1). For my homemade product, I purchased a canvas from a spade-pointed shovel (LKO) and cut off the tulle from it. By the way, the dimensions of the shovels produced by our factories are always smaller than that provided by the state norm, apparently, it is easier for manufacturers to make such shovels, but as a result, consumers, that is, gardeners, often have problems with cuttings that break precisely in Tuleyki area.
Then he made a longer tulle and welded it to the shovel blade using a 45x4 mm steel strip, sharpening the strip from below. I put a stalk from a young pine tree. Please note that the stalk is inserted into the tulle with a thickened part. Everything is according to the laws of nature. This is how all trees grow. Now look at your shovel, after which you will immediately understand that something is not being sold to us. I fixed the fork handle on top.
When my shovel is buried in the ground, my foot is centered on the blade, which makes the job easier and increases the efficiency of the excavator. Resting on the ground, the sharpened part of the strip cuts the layer. When lifting a layer of earth, the worker can intercept the stalk either above the previous point, or closer to the canvas, which saves energy (Fig. 2).
And when dumping the formation, the fork handle helps to turn the blade to one side. Such a shovel is convenient not only for digging, but also for cutting weeds. But most importantly, the gardener does not need to bend into three deaths. This design solution is also suitable for garden forks, which are often used for digging. With a new shovel, my wife quickly learned to deftly dig out all transplant greens with a large clod of earth.
Try to make such a shovel yourself and you will see what has been said.