Installation of a terrace board is carried out in several stages: design of the terrace, calculation of the material, preparation of the base, installation of assembly logs, fastening of the decking, finishing. It is recommended to order an inexpensive turnkey installation of a turnkey deck board from the "Polov" salon professionals, however, on simple objects of a small area, do-it-yourself laying is allowed according to the instructions and recommendations, which are described below.
Preparing the base for the decking frame
Foundation types
The deck deck is laid on a prepared base, which is designed together with the main building or completed later. A clean, level and solid foundation is the key to the durability of the terrace. The most practical types of decking blades are:
- Strip foundation made of monolithic concrete, reinforced concrete structures or bricks... The strip base is arranged around the perimeter (width from 58 cm), as well as under the partitions (width from 38 cm), if they are provided for by the project.
- Monolithic or brick columnar foundation... Posts (not less than 58x58 cm) are installed in the corners, as well as over the entire area of the terrace with a step of not more than 2 m. Intermediate posts - not less than 38x38 cm.
- Screw or rammed pile foundation... The base on piles with a strapping of a bar or channel is arranged on any soil, however, the softer the soil, the deeper it is necessary to install the piles... The supports are poured with concrete and reinforced if high loads are expected on the terrace.
For dry, non-porous soil, a shallow base is sufficient. For frozen soil, the foundation must lie below the freezing level.
Drainage system
Regardless of the chosen foundation, it is necessary to arrange a drainage system in order to avoid flooding of the base and protect the soil from swelling. A slope of 1-1.5% is carried out from the structure to the length of the flooring, the water should freely leave and not accumulate.
Decking frame
To enhance the bearing capacity of the terrace, the frame is assembled:
- Metal carcass... Welded steel frame of the required shape or metal beams with anti-corrosion treatment. Ideal for curved structures.
- Wooden frame... For lightweight structures, it is allowed to use a wooden frame made of timber with a protective treatment.
Adjustable feet
For the installation of decking, especially made of wood-polymer composite, adjustable supports are also used, which make it possible to raise the structure to the required height, as well as build a perfectly flat surface by adjusting each element separately. Adjustable supports are indispensable for laying decking on relief terrain and on maintained roofs, as well as as a temporary deck.
A solid foundation is prepared, the piping is completed, the drainage is arranged correctly, the territory is cleared of construction waste - you can proceed to the next stage of laying the terrace board: installation of mounting lags.
Laying assembly lags
The first thing to consider is mounting lugs are not a supporting structure, they are necessary for an even and neat installation of decking, as well as for creating a ventilated space between the flooring and the foundation.
Types of lags for decking
- Larch and other hardwood glued beams.
✔ Our catalog contains all types of assembly logs for laying deck boards.
The ideal choice is the installation joists made of a material identical to that of the decking board.
Installation technology
The supports are fastened to the base on anchor bolts or dowels with the mounting recess upwards. The logs are laid in parallel with a pitch of 40-60 cm, depending on the thickness of the deck: 20 and 27 mm, respectively. It is allowed to reduce the installation step to 20 cm if the calculated loads exceed 350 kg / lag.
The lags are installed, the next step is installation of a terrace board.
Laying the decking
Concealed installation
The deck is installed perpendicular to the mounting lags. Instructions for laying decking on special clamps:
- Installation starts from any fixed structure, for example, from a wall.
- The initial clip is fastened with a self-tapping screw, taking into account the expansion gap between the deck and the wall from 20 to 30 mm.
- The first board is inserted into the groove.
- A row clip is installed.
- The second board is fixed in the groove with a mallet.
- Likewise, the flooring is assembled completely.
The catalog of our online store contains high-quality ones made of stainless steel or plastic.
It is allowed to protrude a decking board beyond the edge of the log by no more than 5 cm. When laying a long terrace, the boards are joined with their ends on the mounting log and fixed with clips.
Concealed mounting is a universal method suitable for mounting all types of decking boards:
Open mounting
Laying of decking is carried out on self-tapping screws with anti-corrosion treatment. The flooring is assembled in a seam or seamless way, holes are drilled in advance. The screw caps are visible on the surface, but in some cases it looks stylish. The open installation method is suitable for installing a wooden deck with a straight profile.
The deck is assembled, the last step is deck plank finish.
Decking finish
After the completion of the laying of the terrace board, all sections are decorated with end elements made of WPC or aluminum. Universal corners, strips, special plugs for the size of the end and in the color of the polymer board, as well as F-shaped profiles are used. End elements are attached with self-tapping screws or glue.
The end pieces not only give the terrace a complete look, but also protect the deck from moisture, temperature extremes, UV radiation and damage.
- Before installing the terrace board, it must be acclimatized on the site for 2-3 days.
- The ideal air temperature for work is at least 5 ° C.
- Ventilation is required between the deck and the ground - a gap of at least 25 mm.
- When installing on a roof, make sure that the self-tapping screws do not deform the waterproofing.
- Compensation gaps are necessary for the linear expansion of the boards: at least 20 mm from walls and other adjacent structures.
- Holes for self-tapping screws are pre-drilled with a drill of a smaller diameter by 3 quarters of the length.
- At the junction of the ends, it is recommended to lay 2 mounting lugs at a distance of 3-5 mm from each other.
- For uniform fixation of the decking, a mallet is used, which excludes damage to the board.
How to care for your decking to extend the life of your deck is a separate article.
Video - arrangement of a WPC terrace on a screw foundation
Video - installation of a polymer terrace board
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We suggest using professional builders for the installation of decking made of wood-polymer composite.
It is forbidden to use the product for other purposes, as columns, supports, beams and other supporting structures.WPC decking is intended for installation as a floor covering. The installation method is of great importance, incorrect installation can lead to a reduction in the service life of the material, or to its deterioration. Read the instructions carefully before installation, especially important pay attention to maintaining the gaps between the boards.
- During storage and unloading, make sure that the deck is laid on a flat surface, preferably on the crossbeams along the entire length of the boards.
- Avoid contact of the deck board surface with debris, etc.
- Strictly follow the recommendations for installing the wood-plastic composite decking, and use the recommended tools.
- If you have no experience in installing a terrace system, use the services of professionals.
Starring:
- .200mm * 25mm
- .150mm * 25mm
- .65mm * 40mm
- .65mm * 15mm
Terrace surface preparation
Before the start installation of WPC decking boards, make sure the surface is solid and leveled (max. recommended deviation is no more than 5mm). In the case of laying on a solid concrete base, to prevent fracture or bending of the log when drilling it, it is advisable to use a metal fastener made of galvanized or stainless steel to prevent rust.
Adapting, preparing and checking the decking
- Before installing the terrace, it is necessary to allow the terrace board to adapt to the environment within 1-2 days. Put the deck on the logs. They should be located on a flat surface no more than 40 cm apart.
- Installation must be carried out by at least two people.
- Do not install WPC decking at temperatures below 0 ° C.
- It is forbidden to use WPC terrace boards as a support or base for balconies, stairs, etc. In such cases, special measures should be taken in accordance with existing standards. WPC decking can be installed on existing balconies, stairs, etc.
- In the installation area, as with natural wood, there must be sufficient air circulation so that the space under the floor can dry properly. For this, air must circulate at various points in the deck and a sufficient number of ventilation openings must be left open.
- Decking boards may have some color differences due to the presence of natural wood particles in the material from which they are made. Such differences are found in the products of all suppliers of WPC decking. Slight color differences may occur in different production batches of products. Coloring and brushing of product samples are not strictly specified. Therefore, it is recommended to use boards only from the same production batch within the same project. The color of the decking will change during the first weeks after installation. This is a natural process, due to a combination of moisture absorption and UV exposure, which can cause color differences between previously installed boards and those that have not yet been exposed to sunlight. These differences will fade over time. For all of the above, color differences are expressly excluded from our warranty.
Check each WPC decking board carefully before starting installation. An installed board, damaged before installation (and, nevertheless, installed) is not covered by the warranty! The warranty is in all cases limited to the supply of replacement boards.
About expansion gaps (longitudinal seams)
Longitudinal seams when laying WPC decking are necessary in order to ensure drainage (drainage of water from the surface of the decking system), as well as easy cleaning of the surface. In addition, expansion joints provide a slight thermal expansion / contraction of the WPC decking profile during temperature changes in the environment.
When laying decking, there are two installation options: seam and seamless.
Suture- is formed during the installation of the terrace using a stainless kleimer or plastic clip. The seam size is 4-5mm.
This installation option is a prerequisite for assembling a terrace in the open air and in places of high humidity. This method ensures the maximum service life of the products.
Seamless- the option of arranging a closed terrace or installing a decking in the premises. Fastening is carried out with a stainless kleimer with a gap between the boards up to 1-2mm. This method eliminates the ingress of debris into the system, and also makes it look more attractive and convenient for use.
The main rules for installing a dpk terrace board
- CIRCULATION- it is necessary to ensure sufficient air circulation under the deck, as well as to prevent direct contact of structural elements with the ground or grass
- TEMPERATURE EXPANSION- it is imperative to take into account the expansion along the length and width of all structural elements due to temperature and humidity differences during operation
- DRAINAGE- when installing the terrace, observe the slope of the deck surface of 1-3% for better drainage.
- MOUNTING- laying is carried out at an air temperature not lower than 0 ° С.
TOOLS REQUIRED FOR INSTALLATION OF WPC TERRACE BOARD
To assemble a terrace, a necessary set of tools is required, which will allow you to quickly and efficiently mount a terrace system made of WPC decking.
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Wood saw |
Pencil |
Roulette |
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Email drill |
Mallet |
WPC TERRACE BOARD INSTALLATION
Installation of mounting lags from WPC
WPC mounting lugs should not be too long, the recommended length is 3 meters. The step between the central axes of the lag rows should be 33cm, maximum 35-40cm. Lags should be installed with a small gap at the ends. The gap between the ends of the support lags should be 20mm.
- Lags should not be considered as a supporting structure, they themselves must be supported by something along their entire length, except when the flooring is mounted on pedestals (supports). The distance between the pedestals must be no more than 40 cm (center-to-center). It is impossible for the logs to be embedded in concrete, glued or in any other way attached to each other.
- It is impossible for the logs to be in the water.
- The lag is laid with the grooved side down, and the groove up. The groove allows you to install the screw with the clip exactly in the center of the mounting lug.
- Logs are laid at a distance of at least 10 mm in length and width from any fixed structure. There must be a gap of at least 20 mm between the lags.
- Condensation and water run off along the decking planks, i.e. perpendicular to the lags. Therefore, gaps should be left between the transverse lags to ensure good drainage.
- Rigid fastening of the lag to the base is not allowed. To press the log, you must use stainless steel or aluminum staples, with an interval of about 1m.
- The ends of each board should rest on the log. Secure the ends to avoid any possible deformation due to the board's own weight and to avoid the risk of board breaking when loaded on the ledge. When the boards are laid longitudinally, both edges must be supported by separate parallel joists.
- If the joists cannot be attached to the base (for example, on the roof), they can be laid and fixed on pedestals (supports) located at a distance of no more than 40 cm from each other (center-to-center). In this case, aluminum logs should be used instead of conventional wood composite logs. Make a frame (frame) of aluminum logs (located perpendicular to each other) to prevent the boards from bending towards the center.
Compensation gap
Be sure to leave space in advance for the linear expansion of the boards. Where the deck is installed next to a wall, the gap between the edge of the deck surface and the wall should be 20 to 30mm. Considering the thermal expansion or contraction properties of WPC main decking profiles, the recommended length for main decking profiles is 3m.
Fastening the board with a clip. Assembling the terrace.
Before screwing the screw into the mounting lug, it is necessary to make a hole of a smaller diameter with a drill, no more than ¾ of the screw diameter.
For a tighter and more even fixation of the board, use a mallet. Tap on the side closest to you to create a uniform gap along the entire length of the base profile.
At the joints of the ends of the main profile, use double rows of support logs so that each end of the board rests on its own support log. The width of the gap between the rows of support profiles should be between 3 and 5 mm.
When laying the last row of the board, where the edge is not possible to fix with a clip, it is allowed to screw in a self-tapping screw / drive in a nail from the side of the main board profile - at a distance of 2-3mm from the edge.
If the length of the main profile protrudes beyond the last row of support logs, then the length of the decking part protruding from above above the log should be less than 2 cm. Otherwise, deformations, fractures or other defects associated with the weight load falling on such places are inevitable.
The final stage of the terrace installation is the edging of the terrace with a wpc corner or an end strip along the perimeter. The corner or strip is fastened with a self-tapping screw.
Installing a finishing corner or end strip
The corner and the end strip are used for finishing the terrace around the perimeter. Enhances the appearance of decking, hiding the appearance of structural elements. In contrast to the WPC corner, the end strip does not have a protrusion on the terrace surface.
- Make sure the joists at the edge of the deck are at least 5 mm longer than the planks.
- Saw off the corner or end strip to size and place along the edge of the flooring, keeping the distance between the board and the skirting board at least 5 mm.
- Screw them tightly to the joists using long stainless steel screws.
The main dimensions used in the installation of a dpk terrace board (summary table)
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Description of sizes |
unit of measurement |
Note |
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The distance between the lags for decking from WPC "Dekin Standard", 150mm * 25mm |
No more than 33 |
In the event of an increase in the load on the flooring (vehicle entry, a large number of people, etc.), the distance between the logs must be reduced to 15-20 cm. |
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The distance between the lags for decking boards made of WPC "Dekin Prestige", 200mm * 25mm |
No more than 40 |
In the event of an increase in the load on the flooring (vehicle entry, a large number of people, etc.), the distance between the logs must be reduced to 20-25 cm. |
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Expansion joint distance for seamless installation (stainless steel clasp) |
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Expansion joint distance for joint installation (plastic clip) |
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The distance between the dpk decking board, in case of longitudinal joining |
Calculation of the distance between the ends of the board: * Board length - L, * Maximum area temperature - Tmax, * Installation temperature - T Calculation method: L = (Tmax - T) L For example: the length of the board is 2 meters, the installation temperature is 10, the maximum annual temperature is 40, the distance between the ends should be: L = (Tmax-T) L = (0.9 10-4) (40-10) 2000 = 5.4 mm. |
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The distance between the logs in the longitudinal direction (from the end part, when joining the log butt) |
not less than 20 |
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Distance from the KDP log to a wall or other obstacle |
Calculated based on the total length of the terrace, 1 mm of clearance per 1 linear meter of decking |
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The slope of the base is 1 cm / 1 lm. |
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Fastening the lath to the base using self-tapping screws or dowel-nails with a step |
Steel mounting strap or steel mounting angles can be used |
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Fastening a corner or end plate with self-tapping screws |
Fasten to the working side of the board (pre-drilled holes) with stainless steel self-tapping screws |
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For end and corner joints of corners and decorative strips, the required gap (required for thermal expansion) |
OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE OF WPC TERRACE BOARD
- For regular maintenance use a brush or high pressure cleaner (max. 80 bar). When cleaning, clean the boards in the direction they are laid. Do not use an industrial machine for high pressure dirt washers, and to avoid damaging the boards, do not bring the water jet too close. If necessary, you can use a mild detergent. Do not use solvents, stain removers, paints or polishes under any circumstances.
- To avoid the appearance of moss, make sure that the gaps between the boards are clean and that the water can drain well. You can also prevent moss by regularly cleaning your deck.
- It is recommended that you regularly rearrange flower pots and other items to avoid uneven aging of your deck.
- Grease and oil stains can be removed best and fastest with a household degreaser. Do not allow stains to dry or penetrate into the panel material. If the stain is dry, carefully remove it with a high pressure cleaner and sand in the direction of the grooves. After a while, the discolored area should even out in color.
- Scratches can be removed with a metal brush. First, wet the boards as much as possible to avoid discoloration. Run the length of the board gently to remove any scratches. The resulting slight discoloration will fade over time.
- In shaded or partially covered areas, wet smudges may appear, which will eventually disappear under the influence of ultraviolet radiation or bad weather conditions. This will not affect the real quality characteristics of the board, so any complaints and claims in this regard will not be considered. This effect will disappear over time, but it cannot be completely avoided. You can speed up its disappearance by brushing.
NOTE
- In the case of using a WPC decking board for gazebos, terraces, etc. it is not recommended to use wooden logs, since the thermal expansion of a natural wood log differs from the characteristics of WPC materials, which can lead to a violation of the geometry or integrity of the terrace flooring.
- At the junction of the ends of the terrace boards it is necessary to lay two parallel support beams... That is, the edge of each board rests on its own log.
- During installation, we recommend to mount each next row of the board in a "run-away" position, with an offset of the joints by at least 1/3 of the board length.
- If during installation you used wedges between boards and walls, then don't forget to delete them.
- Board end should lie on the lag and fastened to it with a clip or clasp.
- It is not recommended to attach the corner to the edge of the step., since it performs more of a decorative function. We recommend installing an aluminum corner on the edge of the step.
- To avoid the ingress of coals on the terrace board (for example, from the barbecue), put a metal sheet under the brazier itself.
INSTALLATION PRINCIPLE OF WPC TERRACE BOARD ON PLASTIC CLIPS
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS ABOUT WPC DECKING INSTALLATION?
- CALL.
Laying WPC decking
What is known about the characteristics of a composite board?
- Materials, tools for installation
- Preparation recommendations
- Installation steps
- Common mistakes in the process
One of the best materials that can be used for finishing terraces is WPC board. It is a composite, namely the combination of wood flour with a polymer, which allows it to be as good as wood in appearance and performance, and even surpass in some way. Laying WPC decking with your own hands with details.
Why is composite material good?
The appearance of products is determined by the content of wood flour in their composition, and due to polymers, they are provided with functionality. Wood-polymer composite is in many ways superior to natural wood or PVC. One of the most important features is that the lamellas do not lose their original color, shape, and the appearance is assessed as resistant to external factors, for example, atmospheric phenomena. The material is also not attractive to various kinds of bugs that like wood, and to rodents. Durability is characteristic of the products, but this is not the whole list of their positive properties.
The benefits also include:
- flexibility - WPC products can bend, taking different forms depending on conditions. When heated, the physical connection between the constituent elements is broken, and when the material cools, it is renewed. This characteristic allows the use of boards for sheathing stair steps, reliefs, and, of course, for the construction of flooring;
- strength - lamellas are able to withstand a load of 1000 kg per 1 m 2 without any problems, all this due to the presence of modifying additives in the composition. Positive properties are not lost even with a decrease / increase in air temperature within minus 50 and plus 70 degrees Celsius;
- resistance to damage of various nature, staining.
Over the years of practice of using the material, it was possible to conclude that it is easy to install and maintain, and is resistant to moisture. And most importantly, the products are offered in various colors, which allows you to easily embody any design idea, choosing the best option.
As for the shortcomings, then it was not without them. To be more precise, decking has only one, this is its cost. It is at a high level, if we compare it with ordinary wooden boards, then WPC is 4-6 times more expensive.
Laying WPC decking: what is needed for installation?
Laying WPC decking
The key to the success of the installation of WPC decking is competent preparation. From consumables you will need , in the selection process, pay attention to the ratio of the components, the performance properties depend on this parameter. For operation on the territory of our country, taking into account the peculiarities of the climate, it is recommended that the ratio of wood and polymer in the composition of the material is approximately 50% to 50%.
Always take the boards with a margin, because some may be defective, damaged during installation. You can quickly carry out repairs and, if necessary, replace the element.
The work cannot do without composite lags, they are used for the construction of the lathing. These can be used for home installation, where the load on the flooring is not planned to be the highest. These elements are assessed as resistant to negative external factors, for private use they are strong enough.
Lags can be used from various materials, but the construction of the flooring will last much longer if it is built from elements of similar composition. The reason for this is the different indicators of thermal expansion in wood and composite.
You can also not do without fasteners, for this purpose, cleats are used, and if it is necessary to ensure a minimum gap, it is worth using metal clips, they are made of stainless steel. If the size of the gap is not important for you, it is better to give preference to plastic fasteners, so you will improve the underground ventilation of open terraces. The fasteners are fixed using stainless self-tapping screws. The elements that are used at the stage of decorative finishing are end strips, finishing corners.
As for the working tool, everyone will probably find the necessary one for work. For example, to rip planks, you need an electric saw. You can also not do without a drill, screwdriver, level, , carpentry hammer with rubber head. To make the tool convenient to use, take care of the presence of an extension cord.
Laying WPC decking: preparing for installation correctly
Installation of decking
Experienced experts recommend that before starting work, make sure that the surface on which you plan to lay the material is even. The best option is transverse boards that are in contact with the decking elements along the entire length. It is not recommended to allow the surface of products to come into contact with construction debris. If you do not have the slightest experience in such work, it is better to entrust them to professionals.
Adapting, preparing and checking the decking is especially important. He needs to be allowed to adapt to the environment, which happens within 1-2 days. For this, the material is preliminarily brought to the place of its installation. Installation work is carried out by at least two people, the temperature indicator of the air should not be lower than 0 degrees Celsius. Remember that decking products cannot be the only supports, the basis for balconies / flights of stairs.
We must not forget about the need
Laying WPC decking boards to ensure adequate ventilation for proper drying of the space under the flooring. In the products of all manufacturers, there are slight differences in color. This is due to the presence of wood components in the composition.
To make the finished floor look good, try to use boards from the same batch in your work. A natural process is the change in color characteristics during the first weeks. This happens under the influence of moisture, ultraviolet radiation, over time, the changes disappear.
As you can see in the photo of laying the WPC decking, the compensatory gaps, namely the longitudinal seams, are always striking. They are made so that water can quickly drain from the surface, and it is also convenient to care for it. The same can be said about the fact that a slight thermal contraction / expansion is provided under conditions of temperature fluctuations.
You can use one of two styling methods, seam and seamless. For the formation of seams, you will need stainless steel clamps / plastic clips. The closed method is relevant if surface finishing is carried out indoors. The appearance of the finished flooring will be more attractive, the internal space will not be clogged.
Installation of WPC decking: the main stages
- The first step is to install a lag construction, their recommended length is 3 m, and an interval of 28-40 cm.A small gap should be made at the ends within 20 mm. Please note that the joists themselves are not a supporting structure, they must be installed on a solid foundation. Their grooved side should be at the bottom and the groove at the top, this part provides a central installation of the screw and clips. A free space of at least 10 mm must be left from walls, fences. And between the lags themselves, the gap is at least 20 mm. Rigid fixation is not required in this case.
- Next, we proceed to the direct assembly of the terrace. To fix the screws, you must first make holes for them, the drill is used with a diameter smaller than the fastening element itself. The most dense, uniform fixation is ensured using a mallet, the entire length is tapped with it. At the joints of the elements, it is better to use support logs in two rows, so that each end has its own support. At the end of the row, where it is impossible to fix the product with a clip, a self-tapping screw is screwed in, a nail is driven in from the side of the profile. You need to step back 2-3 mm from the edge. At the end of the described process, an edging is made using special corners, these can also be end strips installed around the perimeter. It is better to use self-tapping screws for fastening.
The main mistakes that should not be made
The cost of laying decking made of WPC cannot be called low, so if you decide to save money and do everything yourself, you must learn some rules so as not to spoil the expensive material, to avoid the need to quickly replace the flooring.
- If the surface is not properly prepared, the ideal level of coverage may not be maintained. Over time, irregularities may appear, and over time they will become more noticeable.
- The use of wooden logs is not recommended, even if you are pursuing the goal of saving money. If you neglect this rule, then in a year or two you will have to spend money on dismantling the coating, purchasing composite products, replacing deformed elements of the terrace.
- Failure to comply with the recommended distance between the foundation elements is also a serious mistake. By pushing them apart from each other, you contribute to an increase in the load on the finish coating, this inevitably leads to sagging, deformation.
- You also need to be able to properly fix the fasteners. The fact is that if you do not tighten it, then over time the fastening will weaken, which will lead to loosening. It is not a positive point, and too strong fixation, because the point load increases, as a result, during the installation stage or during operation, cracks may appear.
Always try to follow the installation technology, and your terrace will turn out not only beautiful, but also durable.
WPC board is one of the most budgetary and practical materials for arranging flooring for terraces. Since decking in private construction is used relatively recently, many hire workers to lay it. However, it is easy to do it yourself, even in the absence of skills and with a minimum set of necessary tools.
WPC decking is corrugated planks (boards) consisting of a base - wood flour, a binder polymer element - polypropylene, modified additives and dyes. Decking is less aesthetically pleasing than solid wood decking and does not have a natural wood texture. But this material is preferable in the budgetary plan - its cost is 1000-1500 rubles per m2, despite the fact that it does not need annual maintenance and renewal.
The pluses also include:
- low hydrophobicity;
- resistance to the occurrence of fungus, mold, decay;
- a wide range of colors.
Among other things, the installation of such boards can be performed by a non-professional in the absence of skills and a large number of specialized tools.
Materials and features of their choice
In the work you will need the following materials:
1. Terrace board. If WPC decking is chosen, then you should pay attention to the ratio of the components in the composition, the operational characteristics of the future coating depend on this. This information should be on the packaging.
If there is much more wood filler than polymer, decking "inherits" all the disadvantages of natural wood dust. It becomes more fragile, less moisture resistant and, accordingly, short-lived.
With the predominance of polypropylene, on the contrary, all woody properties are lost, and the board itself is more like a plastic strip, slippery and not attractive enough.
Therefore, for the Russian climate and from the aesthetic side, it is best to choose the middle option - 50/50.
ATTENTION! Please note that it is better to take boards with a small margin. If some planks are defective, damaged during installation or subsequent replacement / repair, it will be difficult to purchase a decking exactly in tone - for this, the material must be from the same batch.
2. Composite logs great for home installation with low load factor. They are resistant to aggressive environments and are durable enough for private use.
ATTENTION! Although many resources say that logs can be made of any material, it is better to use WPC when installing a similar decking, since the thermal expansion of wood and composite is different!
3. Fasteners. It is necessary to prepare the clamps. If you want to make the minimum gap between the decking strips from 1 mm, purchase metal clips (made of stainless steel), but it is most advisable to take plastic clips - the gap will be noticeable (4-7 mm), but this improves the underground ventilation of open terraces. Self-tapping screws are used special, with an anti-corrosion coating.
4. Finishing corner or end strips necessary as a decorative frame for the outer ends of the boards.
The tools necessary for laying can be found in every owner. This is a standard household kit.
During the work on the installation of the WPC, you will need:
- An electric saw - an end saw for cross cutting or a circular saw for longitudinal when adjusting materials, or a jigsaw.
- Electric drill.
- A screwdriver (if it is convenient for you to drill and twist with a drill, you can do without it) or a screwdriver.
- Normal bubble level.
- Roulette.
- Construction pencil.
- Rubber mallet.
- Carrying (extension) for working with corded power tools.
Phased installation of WPC decking
Before starting work, it is necessary to unpack the material and lay it on a clean, flat, dry surface for a couple of days. This is necessary for its adaptation to the environment.
Prepare all the required tools, once again calculate and mark the length of the materials. If everything is in order, you can start installing the deck on the terrace.
Stage 1. Surface preparation
The deck base can be different:
- Cement screed or OSB (in covered terraces), pre-treated with waterproofing mixtures.
- Compacted crushed stone-sand type pillow.
- Pile-screw construction.
If there is no foundation, the arrangement of a crushed stone base is allowed, but only as a last resort. To do this, it is necessary to remove a layer of soil to a depth of 30 cm and cover the resulting hole with geotextile. Then crushed stone is poured and carefully rammed.
Arrangement of decking can be done on any suitable, solid base.
Before installing the lag, please note that it is imperative to provide a slope of at least 1-1.5 degrees for the drainage of water in the direction of laying the boards and the corresponding elements for drainage.
Stage 2. Installation of lathing under the decking
This is the most responsible and difficult stage. There are several basic rules for laying logs that must be taken into account before and during installation:
- Logs are not the main supporting element of the terrace floor. They should be laid on the base, if not along the entire length, then at least on supporting elements (piles or logs), the center-to-center distance between which does not exceed 40 cm.
- It is impossible to lay the space between the logs with heat-insulating materials - this will reduce the ventilation characteristics of the structure.
- The logs are mounted on the base in a perpendicular direction, relative to the laying of the deck.
- Place the joists with the groove upward, this will ensure the correct centering of the cleats.
- When laying them, use a bubble level or level, adjusting the uniformity of the plane with the spacers under the joists.
- Installation is carried out with a gap of 1 cm from any capital structure.
- Fastening is best done with metal staples in increments of approximately 1 meter, but screws can also be used. The basic requirement is to screw them flush into the countersink hole.
- The distance between the lags is 30-40 cm.
Stage 3. Installation of decking
Installation starts from the wall. The linear expansion of the WPC is approximately 1%, so the gap between it and the wall should be about 2-3 cm. The mounting of the decking can be of an open type. This is when the screws are screwed, after preliminary drilling, directly into the "body" of the strip, and then their caps are masked with caps or tinted. However, this method is the least preferred because of its unattractiveness. Therefore, we will consider in more detail the installation of a closed type.
The starting row of cleats is screwed to each lag, strictly coaxially. Before screwing in, drill a hole in the lag 3/4 of the diameter of the self-tapping screw.
The cleats are inserted into the grooves of the first starting board. To make the KDP fit into the clips evenly and tightly, adjust it gently with a mallet.
On the other hand, insert the second row of cleats into the grooves, which are attached in the same way to the guides.
Then lay the next board and fasten it with a clipper. In this way, the entire installation is carried out.
Stage 4. Finishing works
Before closing the ends of the deck, it is important to inspect the resulting structure again.
The end ends of the WPC decking are decorated with corners. To do this, cut the corner to the desired length and screw it to the joists using long stainless screws.
For terrace elements with increased load (steps, sills), aluminum corners are used.
This completes the laying of the decking.
Decking made of wood-polymer composite has its own characteristics. Therefore, in order for your terrace to look beautiful and serve for a long time, you must follow certain rules for installing the deck and its storage.
Preparation for mounting the deck
Store the deck board in a dry place protected from the sun. Better if it is a closed room. Boards are kept in their original packaging, placing them horizontally. Do not remove the packaging in advance, cut them to size. It is better to do this directly during the installation process. Compliance with these simple rules will allow you to avoid bends and deformations of the material, which, however, are easily corrected during installation.
The installation of the wood-polymer composite must be carried out in the warm season, at temperatures above +5 C. It is not recommended to mount it at negative temperatures, on surfaces covered with snow and ice.
In summer, it is better to choose a cloudy day or early morning for laying decking, when the coating will not be exposed to direct sunlight. The fact is that a loose board can heat up strongly and unevenly. This can lead to its bending, which significantly complicates installation.
When choosing the direction of laying, you should be guided by several rules:
- If the terrace is elongated, then it is better to place the board along the short side. Thus, it will be possible to reduce the number of joints and ensure smaller changes in the length of the boards with changes in temperature and humidity. This greatly simplifies installation and operation.
- When placing coverings in an entrance area, it is generally recommended to lay the decking along the wall on which the door is located. This method of mounting decking is considered aesthetically more correct and provides better anti-slip properties (when using a material with a velveteen surface).
- When choosing the direction of laying, you should think in advance how the edge of the material will be trimmed. For example, the end strip is easier to lay along the board, but there is not much difference for the F-profile.
Based on these rules, you should choose in advance the direction of laying, think over the design of all elements of the terrace. We strongly do not recommend solving issues "in the course of construction". This approach often leads to waste of material, errors and design flaws.
ATTENTION! It is especially important to purchase a decking for installation completely over the entire area. The fact is that the WPC coating is a natural material and (like any similar material: wallpaper, ceramic tiles, etc.) it can slightly change the shade from batch to batch. Therefore, when purchasing several missing elements, it may well turn out that they will differ in tone from the rest of the flooring.
In the assortment of the Master Dec company there are two types of decking boards: traditional - Classic and Light, and for laying on flat surfaces - Slim. Installation requirements for them differ significantly, so we will consider them separately:
Terrace board MasterDeck CLASSIC and MasterDeck LIGHT
Base installation
When using these types of decking boards, laying is carried out on logs. The recommended distance between the joists is 30 cm (maximum 40 cm) for Light and 40 cm (maximum 50 cm) for Classic. If a significant load on the flooring is expected (for example, laying the decking in public places), then it is better to reduce the distance between the logs.
If the logs are supposed to be mounted on a solid base (concrete, paving slabs, etc.), then it is best to use standard MasterDeck logs.
These logs have a cross-section of 30x40 mm. On the upper part of the lath there is a special recess for installing a stainless steel cleaimer. The lags are attached to the base with a mounting tape. When installing on concrete, it is advisable to lay a waterproofing gasket under them. A glass-insulated strip is quite suitable.
When installing the decking, it is important to remember that the joists have a low bearing capacity. Therefore, they must necessarily rest on a solid base with a step of no more than 30 cm.
When placed on a solid base, water drainage from under the terrace must be ensured. That is, the base must have a sufficient slope for water to drain off. Also, there should be no significant pits where water can collect in puddles. In this case, the logs should not interfere with the flow of water. If they are located perpendicular to the slope, it is necessary to make breaks in the logs to ensure normal drainage.
Failure to comply with the requirements for drainage of the base leads to a significant reduction in the service life of the terrace, and in some cases to its destruction in the winter, if the structure freezes into the ice.
If a columnar or strip foundation is used for laying decking, then the use of a WPC log may be irrational. In such a situation, we recommend using wooden logs. Wooden board 50x150 mm, laid on the edge, can be used to bridge spans up to 3 m.
IMPORTANT! The board should only be used dry. It must be thoroughly painted or impregnated with an anti-rotting compound. Careful selection and preparation of the material has a decisive influence on the service life of the terrace.
Otherwise, when using a board as a lag, you should follow the usual building rules (waterproofing in places of contact with concrete, etc.).
It is also permissible to use a metal profile to assemble the base for mounting the decking. But we would not recommend this option as it is more expensive and time consuming than a board. In addition, when using metal lags, you have to use less convenient plastic clips of the "fungus" type.
Laying decking
The board is attached to the joists by means of standard stainless steel clamps.
It is screwed to the log using a self-tapping screw (it is better to take galvanized self-tapping screws 3.5x30 with a countersunk head). The kleimer has special tendrils that are inserted into the grooves of the boards and securely fasten them.
For the outer boards, special start / finish clamps are usually used:
Additionally, when working with extreme terrace boards, an F-profile can be used for their installation.
The use of standard Master Deck clamps for installation provides the same gap between adjacent boards (about 4 mm), which is necessary for drainage, ventilation under the terrace and to compensate for the expansion of the material.
If the board is adjacent to a hard surface (wall, pillar), you need to leave a gap of about 20 mm between the deck and this surface to compensate for its thermal expansion.
If there is a need to connect the components "to the end", then for this, an additional lag is installed at the connection point:
In this case, a gap should be left between the ends (to compensate for expansions) in accordance with the table:
|
The length of the flooring in the direction of laying the board |
The length of the boards used for installation |
The minimum gap between the ends of the boards |
|
Less than 6 meters |
less than 4 meters |
|
|
from 4 to 6 meters |
||
|
6 to 10 meters |
less than 4 meters |
|
|
from 4 to 6 meters |
||
|
More than 10 meters |
less than 4 meters |
|
|
from 4 to 6 meters |
Finishing
The ends after laying the decking may not look particularly attractive. Therefore, we provide a large selection of materials for finishing:
- Aluminum anodized step profile
With the help of the proposed elements, it is possible to implement many different finishing options, which can be read in more detail in the "Articles" section of our website.
The main mistakes when installing the decking
- Failure to comply with the minimum lag step. Leads to sagging lag, large deflection.
- Using a WPC lag when installing decking as load-bearing ones, with non-observance of the distance between the supports. Leads to sagging of the flooring, possibly destruction.
- Fastening the cover without the use of Master Deck clips. Leads to material deformation.
- Failure to meet the requirements for the gaps between the ends, in the abutment area. Leads to swelling of the flooring, destruction of adjacent structures.
- "Seamless" installation. If you press the boards together with excessive force when installing the boards, the tendrils of the cleimers may bend and the distance between adjacent elements may be critically low. Leads to swelling and destruction of flooring.
Terrace board MasterDeck Slim
The Master Deck Slim is significantly different from the traditional deck. Laying of this type of decking is carried out exclusively on a solid base, such as a concrete area, tiles, wooden floor.
ATTENTION! Master Deck Slim cannot be log-mounted!
Base installation
The choice and proper preparation of the base for the MasterDeckSlim installation are fundamentally important for the long service life of the future flooring.
The foundation must necessarily meet the following requirements:
- Should be flat. Potholes, cracks, irregularities should not interfere with the tight fit of the components.
- Must be strong enough. If installation is carried out on a wooden floor or lathing, it should not bend strongly under the feet; in the case of lathing, the distance between adjacent boards should not exceed 10 cm.
- Must provide good drainage. The concrete or tile base for installing the decking must have a sufficient slope for water drainage and ensure that there are no puddles. This point is fundamentally important, since the Master Deck Slim coating lies directly on the surface, in the event of the formation and subsequent freezing of a puddle under the flooring, the terrace may collapse! If you have a large open area, and you are not completely sure about the presence of the necessary slope and the quality of drainage, it is better to refuse to use MasterDeckSlim in favor of Master Deck. Light or Master DeckClassic!
Styling
Important! When laying on concrete or tiles, the flooring must always lie in the direction of the slope of the base so that water can drain freely between the ribs. At the lowest point of the terrace, where water will flow out from under its surface, there should be no obstacles to free flow.
When laying the deck board on a concrete base, it is necessary to provide waterproofing. For this, waterproofing is laid on the concrete in one layer. If the installation is carried out on a wooden floor / lathing, it is necessary to thoroughly pre-treat it with an anti-rotting compound, or better - to paint it.
It is better to start installation from the wall or abutment. It is necessary to step back at least 5 mm and lay the board against the wall with the side on which the “thorn” of the “thorn-groove” connection is located. On the other hand, it is attached to the base using dowel-nails (or self-tapping screws for a wooden floor) with a pitch of 50 cm.
From the side of the wall, the free side of the board can be fixed with a plinth or other finishing element.
The next decking board for laying the flooring is inserted with a tenon into the groove of the previous one and mounted in the same way.
Important! When installing the boards, DO NOT push them close to each other. Leave a gap of at least 2 mm:
This is done using a probe of the desired thickness. You can, for example, use a 10-ruble coin. Ignoring this rule is categorically not allowed, since it almost always leads to damage ("swelling") of the flooring.
If during installation it became necessary to join the boards along the length, a gap of 4 mm should be left between their ends. At the same time, they need to be mounted "sprawling", i.e. the locations of the longitudinal joints on adjacent boards should be no closer than 20 cm.
Finishing
For finishing the ends of the terrace, made during the installation of the Master Deck Slim, it is recommended to use an aluminum corner painted in the color of the board:
Major mistakes
- The main and most common mistake when using Master Deck Slim is failure to maintain a 2 mm gap between adjacent boards. This is a very serious mistake, which almost always leads to damage to the terrace, because when the humidity changes, the material swells and the flooring surface "swells".
- Laying Master Deck Slim on logs is not allowed! The manufacturer is not responsible for the consequences of experiments on this matter!
- Poor drainage can damage the deck. If there are doubts about the quality of drainage, or the deck is large, it is better to abandon the use of Master Deck Slim in favor of mounting a traditional deck: Master Deck Classic or Master Dec kLight.
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