How to make an easel with your own hands. Drawings with dimensions: desktop, children's for drawing, folding, collapsible, clapperboard

And site guests!

Today I want to present you my next creation. Since I have a main hobby and I love to draw, I would like to present to your attention a folding easel.

To make it we will need:
Drill and drill bits of different diameters
Grinder with sawing and petal discs
Curly screwdriver
Five bolts with washers and nuts
Wood planks
Tape measure and pencil
Wood screws, small nails
Small loop.

Step 1. Take the planks first

We will need four of them. My legs will be 160 centimeters long.
Bar for sliding canvas holders 150 centimeters.
Step 2. Cut off the length we need. We sand the workpieces.

Now we pre-round the upper ends of the planks, as shown in the diagram, and drill holes in them for fastenings. 1.5-2 centimeters from the edge.

Step 3. Now take the bar, which will serve to change the installation height of the canvas stand and its upper clamp.

The height of this blank is 155 centimeters. We mark it exactly in the middle and make a cut along the marking line, not reaching the edge a couple of centimeters on each side. It turns out this detail:

I was carried away by the process, so I missed a couple of stages and didn’t take photos.
We bevel the top edge and make it more streamlined.
Step 4. Now you need to make the part for attaching easel legs. To do this, we take a board, a bar 15 centimeters long. We sand it and grind it in the corners on four sides. We drill holes for attaching the legs. I immediately made the top holder for the canvas. The height is whatever is comfortable for you, it doesn’t matter. The main thing is that its lower edge, when raised, at the very top of the sliding bar, is flush with the cutout.

Step 5. Drill holes in the legs for fastening. We take a bolt, three washers and now attach the legs to the base.

We perform similar actions with the second leg. As a result, we should end up with something like this:

We drill a hole in the fastening blank for the slotted strip.
Step 6. We begin to attach the slotted strip, on which the canvas holders will be attached, so to speak, the basis of our future easel.
In order to secure this part, we need two wide washers so that when shifted they do not fit into the slot. For now, I tightened the bolts tightly so that the parts were well fixed. The result is this:

Step 7. Now we make picture holders. I start from the top of the easel. To do this, I took the already prepared parts and began to connect them. I made the connection using small nails. Holds tightly and looks neat. In order not to split the planks, I drilled small holes for nails at the fastening points.

Smooth the corners along the edges of the workpiece.

Step 8. Drill in the middle of the resulting part hole for attaching to a sliding bar.

Now we take a bolt, washer and nut and attach it to the base of the easel.

It turns out this design.

Step 9: Now we need to assemble the canvas support, which will be attached to the bottom of the sliding bar. For this I needed two planks 70 centimeters long. We sand them. Just like with the top holder, we drill small holes for nails along the edge of the fastening parts. We collect the details.

In the finished part, in the middle, drill holes for fastening.

Step 10. Now we attach the canvas stand to the sliding bar. You will also need a wide washer.

The end result is a prefabricated part like this.

Step 11. The next step is to decide on the dimensions installed canvases and, accordingly, drill holes in the legs and support of the canvas in order to fix the canvas at a certain height. Since I almost always paint on stretchers of the same size, I adjusted the height accordingly to my canvases.

Step 12. Fasteners to fix the canvas support I decided to make the legs out of wood. Simple wooden pegs. I took a regular piece of wood, trimmed it with a utility knife to the diameter of the hole, and sanded it.

We got these pegs.

Step 13. Now we need to assemble and attach support leg to the base of the easel. There, where we have already secured the legs and the sliding bar. For this we will need wood screws and a small loop. I made the support leg 155 centimeters long.

We make an easel with our own hands from available materials. Even a girl can assemble such an easel. Instructions in photos

Today I will tell you how to make an easel with your own hands, since in the store easels cost around 4,000 rubles, the same easel will cost you only 400 rubles.
Making such an easel is easy.

We will need slats measuring 20x45, 2 meters each - 5 pieces. We cut them to the following sizes:
168 cm - 2 pcs.,
154 cm - 1 pc.,
146 cm - 1 pc.,
53 cm - 1 pc.,
39 cm - 1 pc.,
60 cm - 3 pcs.

Now we place a 146 cm rail - this is the basis of our easel.

We lay out horizontal slats with dimensions of 39 and 53 cm relative to it.

We retreat 55 cm and lay out a horizontal rail measuring 39 cm. For the bottom rail, we retreat 3 centimeters from the bottom. The side rails can be removed for now, we need them.

Now we make a hole in the center of the cross bars using a drill.

Next we need to lay them out exactly in the center of the river 146 cm. So this is what we get:

Now we need to lay out the side slats of 168 cm each. The slats should be positioned symmetrically

Now, using a drill, we make holes for the screws and screw our side rails using the screws.

Now let's remake the leg of our easel. To do this, we take a regular door hinge. We attach it first to the easel and then to the rail. Let's make it as if in expanded form.

How to make an easel with your own hands?

This is what you should get:

Now all that remains is to make a shelf for the easel.
For this you will need:

3 slats of 60 cm
Nails
Drill
2 bolts with wing nuts

We drill two holes just above the middle in two 60 cm slats.

Next we make a shelf for the easel. To do this, we connect two slats of 60 centimeters each and fasten them with nails.

Now we take our third rail and, using bolts and wing nuts, install our shelf on the easel.

The easel is ready.

I hope this guide was helpful to you. If you suddenly have any questions, ask them in the comments, I will be happy to answer them.

Category: "Master felt-tip pen"

How to make an easel with your own hands, options. Types of easels.

Easel, translated from German “Malbrett”, means a shelf for painting. This is a special device for artists (a machine), on which the canvas is fixed at a convenient angle for working (so that the plane of the painting is perpendicular to the line of sight).

Drawing on easels began back in the 15th century, when they served not only as a device for painting, but also served as a kind of attribute, decoration of the artist’s workshop; ready-made paintings were often installed on them.

The most frequently used, and still in use, are tripod easels; they are less bulky and stand steadily on any surface, even if it is not level. Although there are easels with four legs, these are preferably children's easels, where stability is valued above all.

There are different types of easels: standard ones, for standing drawing, tabletop easels, and, as I already mentioned, children’s easels. The design of easels can also be different, and first, let’s look at the photo to see what types of easels there are, including factory-made ones.

But here are the options for tabletop easels; they are usually used for painting small-sized paintings. It is much more convenient to draw such pictures while sitting at a table. And this is not the entire list, there are other types of tabletop easels.

In this photo, the first easel (on the left), it does not have canvas clamps and is intended purely for the exhibition of paintings.

As you can see in the photo, the design of easels is quite simple and making one yourself is not difficult even for craftsmen with little experience working with wood. As a material, you can use ready-made slats made of pine, beech or walnut, with a cross-section of approximately 20x55 mm. The best option is beech, but if not, other dry wood will do.

What is an easel, types, assembly and repair with your own hands?

The height of the easel (2 front posts) is usually selected individually during production, on average it is 170 cm, i.e. equals average height, and the width at the base is 60-70 cm. The rear support with the above parameters is 155 cm, and the crossbars are 40 cm and 55 cm. I give these dimensions for guidance. It’s best to lay out the slats on a flat floor and adjust the sizes at your discretion.

It is best to make a shelf for canvas with this design (see photo below), on two thumbscrews; it will hold firmly, since it will be clamped on all three slats, and not just on one, the central one, and it can be easily moved around height. And in the place where the stretcher with the canvas will stand, you can make shallow (2-3 mm) cuts so that the stretcher does not slip.

Sometimes the shelf is fixed to the side strips, but then you need to drill holes in them in increments of 7 cm.

It is better to make the upper clamp of the canvas on grooves (see photo above) made in the central rail, then it can be moved from the very top of the bar all the way to the stop of the shelf, without additional adjustment, to fit any canvas size.

The top clamp is made not only from wood, but also from metal. In this case, it will be stronger and more convenient to use, and now finding a welding machine, electric drill, or grinder is not a problem...

It is better to fasten ready-made blanks with self-tapping screws, 2 pieces at each point, then the easel will not fold diagonally.

Having completed all the work on assembling the easel, it must also be sanded, sharp corners, roughness, and opened with matte varnish or another, or impregnated with 1-2 layers of drying oil, or a special impregnation for wood, especially the legs. This action protects the wood from moisture and pests, and your easel will serve you for many, many years...

Victor Donskoy
www.masteru.org.ua

Types of easels, sketchbooks

Floor, wooden, studio easels are always available

Types of easels

The easel market today is wide and varied; manufacturers offer a huge variety of models for various creative tasks and a variety of operating conditions. The article will help you understand the classification and types of easels and will be useful when choosing your first easel.

Easel "Lyre"

The A-Frame easel, better known as the Lyre Easel, is based on a triangle. This design allows for stability while keeping the size and weight small, and the single rear support is especially useful for small spaces, also allowing the easel to be placed in a corner. Many A-frame easels have a top canvas holder and can be adjusted in height and angle.

The main advantages of the lyre easel are its light weight, reliability and simplicity of design, compact size, ease of installation and storage. In addition, A-frame easels are often used as display easels and are suitable for displaying anything from paintings to advertising products.

H-shaped (studio) easel

It just so happens that the word “studio easel” usually means just such a design (although formally all easels used indoors are considered studio easels). Thanks to its rectangular silhouette and base, the design of this easel is the most rigid and durable. It allows you to work with large formats and is adjustable in height and tilt. Some models make it possible to tilt the canvas not only back, but also towards you. Studio easels have a shelf and a top canvas holder.

H-shaped easels are popular in art schools and workshops. While remaining technically simple, and therefore reliable and inexpensive, the design of the studio easel allows both students and professional painters to work comfortably.

Due to their large weight and dimensions, studio easels are inferior to lyres and “masts” in mobility, and are also demanding on space.

Transformable (hybrid) easel

A convertible easel, sometimes called a hybrid easel, is a type of H-shaped studio easel. It is distinguished by greater flexibility of adjustments, which allows the master to work in different techniques and with a variety of materials. For example, for varnishing, the transformable easel can be moved to a horizontal position without removing the canvas. Typically, hybrid easels have a wide base and a top holder for working with huge formats.

A large easel is a professional and multi-purpose tool designed for stationary use in the studio.

Easel easel

An easel (Giant easel) is another variation of the classic studio H-shaped easel. It differs, first of all, in size and is designed to work with truly huge canvases. To meet the special needs of "gig" artists, easel easels can be equipped with multiple masts to support wide canvases and even a winch to help adjust the height of the frame under heavy canvases.

Easel easels are also in demand in restoration workshops. This is a highly specialized tool, often custom-made for specific purposes.

Mast easel

These easels have the simplest silhouette of all the models. They are distinguished by their elegant design and visual lightness, but from a professional point of view they are inferior to other types; they lack the strength and flexibility of traditional designs. However, mast easels allow you to adjust the height and angle of the canvas, and their mobility and ability to fold quickly and compactly in certain conditions can be a decisive advantage.

Due to their aesthetic qualities, mast easels are in demand for exhibition purposes.

Craft product Modeling design DIY easel Wood

They are suitable for small apartments or schools, as well as for occasional use.

Sketchbooks and tablets

A special type of easels, focused on plein air painting, their strong point is compactness and mobility. They are a box inside which the artist stores all the necessary tools and materials, with the ability to secure the canvas on the inside of the folded lid or using a built-in frame with tilt adjustment.

Sketchbooks differ from sketch boxes by the presence of folding legs. By changing their height, the sketchbook can be used outdoors, in the studio, and even as a tabletop easel.

The main disadvantage of sketchbooks was and remains the limitation of canvas sizes, usually no larger than A3 format - an inevitable price to pay for high mobility. In addition, the sketchbook has a more complex design with many moving parts, thereby being inferior to other easels in reliability.

Student easels

Classic “crackers” (this is the well-established nickname these easels received for their characteristic cotton sound when folded) can be found in almost any children’s art school and in a regular school in the art classroom. It’s poorly tailored and tightly sewn - that’s also about them! Simplicity of design, low price, compact size and the ability for two people to work simultaneously on opposite sides make such easels preferable for most public children's institutions.

Structurally, the student easel consists of 2 plywood displays on legs, movably connected to each other at the top. The canvas (in this case, paper, of course) is attached with ordinary pushpins or using clips at the top. Sometimes the surface of the easel is made in the form of a slate board for drawing with chalk.

Table easels

Another popular type of easels, widely in demand among amateurs. As the name suggests, these compact easels sit on a table. Structurally, they replicate a lyre or an H-shaped easel and differ in size and have the necessary adjustments. As a rule, tabletop easels fold compactly for easy storage and transportation.

Due to their small size, tabletop easels seriously limit the size of the canvas. Besides, not everyone likes to work while sitting at a desk.

Bench easels and integrated easels

In the order of exoticism, we note complex solutions, in the center of which is an easel built into some piece of furniture. Their strong point is versatility and flexible transformation capabilities. The design can be either extremely simple - in the form of an ordinary bench with a canvas holder nailed to the end, or very complex - with all kinds of sections, holders, many drawers, shelves and other excesses that amaze the artist’s imagination.

Presentation and decorative easels

Presentation or exhibition easels, as the name suggests, are intended not for creating, but for demonstrating masterpieces of fine art, although the second does not exclude the first.

Such easels often allow you to install not one, but several canvases at once, many of them are equipped with wheels and a rotating mechanism. In addition, use for presentation purposes dictates increased demands on the aesthetic properties, materials and design of the easels themselves.

The simplest case
Which one to do first?
Floor-standing
Tabletop (for watercolor)
Another transformer

Anyone who has taken up painting and/or started learning it soon understands that you need to paint not on a table, but from an easel. Whether he is a realist, who paints nature in the most subtle way, or a completely reckless avant-garde artist, for whom painting is a means to shock the most respectable public, without an easel in this entire, so to speak, range of values, little good will come of it. However, a “real professional” easel is by no means a cheap accessory, and what should you do if you are just trying your hand at fine art or painting occasionally? You need to make an easel with your own hands. Don’t be afraid, you won’t lose your hand, you won’t fall out of the crystal tower - making an easel does not require much physical effort, expensive materials, special tools and skills in using them. Can you make a stretcher for a painting yourself? Then you can have an easel.

The process of oil painting from an easel

The simplest case

Temporary easel-stretcher

The simplest way to make an easel is a stretcher. This is a temporary canvas holder that can be useful, firstly, if you are just trying yourself - will it work? Secondly, if you paint occasionally; Let's say, once a year, not every year you are "punched up" on vacation. Artists, forgive me, but you yourself still don’t use such expressions. And not only privately among themselves. Thirdly, stretcher easels are often used by portrait painters working at the customer’s home.

It is better to make your first simple easel with the front legs, which are a continuation of the sides of the stretcher, see fig. on right. When stretching the canvas, its overlaps are left at the feet. When the painting is ready, the back support is removed, the legs are carefully sawed off, and the canvas overlaps are attached to the crossbars. In the future, the same legs can be used to create the next opus; then they are nailed from behind to a stretcher with already stretched canvas.

Note: There is some advantage of an easel-stretcher, especially when working on location - it does not need to be transported or stored anywhere. Until the work is created or when it has already been created, the stretcher easel simply does not exist.

Which one to do first?

Let's say you've already decided - yes, I need a permanent easel. There are, firstly, floor and table easels. Secondly, both of them are stationary or folding mobile (mobile/hiking, wearable or transportable). If your child loves to draw and shows good inclinations in this, then at first he will need one universal tabletop easel for drawing (for watercolors), see below. If you intend to seriously engage in painting yourself, you will need a couple of floor-standing ones, stationary and mobile, and at least one tabletop.

Any of these easels can be made at home. Which one to do first depends on your (or your child’s) genre preferences and work style. To practice primarily easel painting, you will first need a mobile floor easel, then a tabletop drawing easel, and then, if there is room for an art workshop, a stationary floor easel. If you prefer small forms (miniature, caricature, etc.), the first thing you need to do is make an easel for watercolors.

Floor-standing

A stretcher with primed canvas weighs several kg; large - up to several tens of kg. But it should be easily and simply installed on the easel, as well as removed from it, but securely held on the easel while working. The canvas (paper, cardboard, board) must be sufficiently, evenly and directly illuminated, for which the source of working lighting is located low behind the artist, but the canvas should not be shaded by it when working both sitting and standing.

The main types of floor easels for easel painting were developed at the beginning of the Renaissance and described by Vasari in his Lives. Folding tripod easel (item 1 in the figure below) is mobile. It is the easiest to make, it does not take up much storage space and is useful if the size of the painting does not exceed approx. 100x80 cm, and each working session does not last long. The canvas on the tripod is not fixed in any way; it simply lies on the easel. If its supports (or support, see below) are placed high, a sufficiently large canvas becomes unstable. If you place the canvas low, then when working while standing, it is difficult to illuminate it evenly and your eyes get tired, and when working while sitting on a large canvas, your hanging hand will soon get tired; The painter cannot lose the fidelity of his eye and the firmness of his hand.

Main types of easels for easel painting

Note: There is a legend about one or the other master of the Renaissance. A certain rich connoisseur and philanthropist (usually called Lorenzo de' Medici the Magnificent) decided to invite him to work with him and sent one of his associates for this. He, knowing nothing about painting, but wanting to curry favor, demanded a trial work from the artist. A version of the legend is that the messenger wanted to receive his portrait by the great master for free. He shrugged his shoulders and drew a circle by hand as evenly and accurately as with a compass; The envoy had no choice but to present such a sample to the ruler. He, immediately realizing what had happened, burst out laughing, went to the master himself (optionally, sent a personal message with an invitation), and demoted the overly zealous servant.

The easel-lyre (item 2) is so named for its distant resemblance to an ancient Greek musical instrument; well, without developed associative thinking there is nothing to do in art and literature. The lyre easel can be considered the most universal of the floor ones: you can place a canvas up to 1.2x1.8 m in size on it, and at the same time it can be either stationary or mobile. Easel-machine, pos. 3, (from where - easel painting) is used to create paintings of large sizes up to extraordinary ones.

A beginner, as well as a professional in painting, one day faces the question of buying an easel. The store may be overpriced or the desired option may not be available. Solution: buy materials and make an easel for painting with your own hands. First you need to determine what requirements the product must meet: appearance, design, color. An accurate picture in your head gives a practical final option.

What is an easel?

An easel is a stand for painting pictures, generally U-shaped. Wood or metal is used in production. It is a frame for securing the canvas, which is placed on three legs or two stands. There are options for tabletop easels, children's easels, or tablets that are used for drawing or creating drawings.

Easel device

The design consists of a central wooden plank to which a clamp, boom, and canvas shelf are attached. The lock adjusts the height and angle of inclination. The boom and the shelf are a single whole. Attaches to the center pillar. Determines height using slots and a rod with handle. The elements are connected on a strong base that can support several canvases.

Species

Lyra. The most common type is considered student. It is a stable, compactly folding tripod. The main advantage is the wide subframe and light weight. There is only a floor option, it is not used horizontally. The angle of inclination varies widely: in some types it is possible to direct the top of the easel towards the artist.
Easel clapperboard. Often used by beginners. The work is carried out with thick paper, which is attached to a button or tape, because... This type does not have upper and lower clamps. The stand has four legs. The height depends on the location of the rear rail. Pros: simplicity, durability, ability to work standing or sitting, regardless of age.
Tablet. Refers to universal tabletop machines. The design is simple (only the frame and legs), has no latches, no clamps, no additional shelves. Therefore, to secure, as in the previous version, a button is used. The angle of inclination depends on the position of the retractable rear leg. You can only work on it with small canvases.
Transformable easel. A universal option. Used for both drawing and drawing. It has a large number of functions: the canvas can be placed in a vertical position, in a horizontal position, and you can select any level of inclination. Work comfortably while sitting either on a simple chair or on a high one. Work is carried out with medium-sized materials.
Studio easels. Option for large professional works. In this case, there are many possibilities at hand: height adjustment, choice of tilt angle, special compartment for brushes and paints. It is distinguished by its large dimensions, stability when working even with large canvases, reliable fastening of the canvases and the absence of horizontal installation.
Tripod. An easel standing on three legs. The main feature is the great mobility of the bar, various variations of position up to horizontal, and lightness. Suitable for outdoor use. In the home and studio versions, the structure is unstable, but the canvas must be securely attached. When working on a tripod, small or medium blades are used.

Dimensions

In addition to the options listed, machines can be made for children, tabletop or folding. The dimensions of the easel for drawing depend on the canvas: small in size like a landscape sheet and A3 (desktop, tablet). Medium ones work with canvas up to 1 meter (Lira). On large ones you can create works from 1-2 meters or more (Lyra or studio).

How to make an easel with your own hands

When the goal is determined, and you have a clear picture of a do-it-yourself easel in your head, you can move on to the main stage - manufacturing. To make an easel at home, you will need a drawing with dimensions and tools:

self-tapping screws, 2 anchors with a nut;
saw;
strap;
sandpaper;
drill;
drill;
hammer;
screwdriver;

In this example, we consider the diagram of a medium-sized do-it-yourself easel. The size and volume of the material depends on this:

5 bars 20 mm (thickness), 40 mm (width) and 250 cm length;
block 40 mm (thickness), 40 mm (width) and 250 cm length;
30 mm loop.

When all the materials are at hand, you can start assembling the easel with your own hands. For safety, it is better to work with gloves. Disposable materials will do. Below are step-by-step instructions: “making an easel”:

On 20/40 bars, measure two 170 cm and two 140 cm. Saw the marked bars, sand them with sandpaper, rounding the corners.
On the bars 170 cm from the top, mark 95, 105, 115, 125, 135, 145 cm, make holes in them with a drill and sand them with sandpaper. Combine into one structure.
On a 70 cm block, mark 1 13 cm on both edges. Make holes so that two points (1 and 13 cm) can be connected. Sand it with sandpaper.
Attach the resulting side to the base. Place the shelf in the desired location, secure it with anchors and nuts.
Secure one end of the strap to the leg, the other to the middle bar (connects the two legs) using bolts.
Cover with varnish.

The described instructions on how to assemble an easel are universal. Using this example, you can create any type, give it a variety of shapes, only the details change. You can make the following types of easel with your own hands:

The tabletop easel is compact in the literal sense: it can be placed directly on the table. During manufacturing, the bottom block is 600 by 20 by 40. A bar is attached to it - 600 by 10 by 40, also one. Small top block - 250 by 20 by 40 1 pc. Rear rack - 150 by 20 by 40 1 pc. In addition, you will need a furniture hinge, 6 by 50 bolts, washers and nuts.
Folding is convenient for transportation or storage at home behind a closet. It can be put away in a secluded place without completely disassembling it. In order for it to fold, you need to nail a sliding strip to all materials. It is attached to the canvas support and to the leg. In this case, the machine, when folded, reaches the size of an ordinary thickened bar.
The children's homemade easel is smaller than the classic one. To create a homemade easel of this type, you need to start from the child’s height and use it to determine the size of the main block. Attach with self-tapping screws 2 slats of 50 cm each (to the front leg), 2 slats of 40 cm each (on the side racks), and a round wooden slat of 60 cm. If there are several children, you can make the structure double-sided. Then the easel drawing with dimensions will resemble the letter “A”.
The clapperboard is the easiest type you can make. 4 slats of the same size (base) are fastened with slats-legs, laid with a sheet of plywood, sanded with sandpaper. You can start drawing.
The tripod differs from all types in that the inner sides (the junction of the front and back bars) should form an equilateral triangle. The tripod is easy to make foldable. You need to fasten the card loop and attach it at the top connection so that it does not wobble and is stable.
The draftsman's easel, also known as a transformer, is made according to the same principle as folding types. The junction of the joints is fastened with loops, which help subsequently take on the desired form.

A passion for painting is not a reason to spend money on buying a new easel. It is quite possible to equip a place for creativity at home with your own hands. Therefore, we offer an excellent option for creating an easel.

How to make an easel with your own hands - materials

So, in order to make your own drawing device, you need to prepare:

sandpaper, or preferably a circle with a grain density of 100-120 - 1 pc.;
sandpaper - 1 sheet of the same density;
glue for gluing wooden surfaces;
door hinges 2 cm – 1 pc.;
hanging hooks 13 cm – 1 pc.;
carnations without a cap (2 cm) – 4 pcs.;
self-tapping screws 4 pcs. sizes 16.5 by 2.7 mm and 34 mm by 2.9 mm – 6 pcs.;
furniture screws with nuts and washers – 2 pcs. size 72 mm by 5.2 mm;
pine slats 3 m long - 3 pcs., size 4.5 by 2 cm.

Tools for work:

sander;
wood hacksaw;
electric jigsaw;
pencil, ruler and construction meter;
gloves;
Phillips screwdriver plus hammer;
drill and drill bits 6 and 8 mm;
screwdriver