Joining the timber at the corners: laying with and without residue, installation of the profiled timber according to the “Dovetail” method. Joining a bar in the corners during the construction of a log house - with and without a residue: how to do it right for the strength of a log house and less heat loss How to slaughter

The construction of a wooden house at the present time is an advantage and a guarantee of success for a practical modern person.
The most common and demanded type of buildings is, which, in turn, has high strength, does not absorb moisture.

Log houses effectively solve the energy problem, as they are characterized by excellent thermal insulation, which helps to reduce the cost of heating the building.
The "warm corner" system is a great progress in the construction of structures made of profiled timber, which allows to achieve reliable stability of the entire structure, to provide protection from cold gusty winds and subsequently retain heat.

The "warm corner" design is a log cabin (corner) with a root tenon. The beam is connected in such a way that the adjacent corner elements, on one of which there is a tenon and on the other a groove, are the same size and symmetrical.

Cutting options in "Warm corner"

The spike or protrusion has a rectangular shape (50/80 X 50 / 80mm) and is located on the edge of the profiled bar. During construction, there is an alternation of joints on the crowns: a spike on the even crowns on the left, and a groove on the odd ones.

Due to the tight entry of the thorn into the recess, a kind of "lock" is formed, excluding the presence of cracks, a monolithic structure is formed, which is sealed with linen jute embedded in the groove. Jute insulation is much better and more practical than moss, linen tow or linen batting. Having finished laying the next crown, a wooden dowel of a round section is hammered into the corner. Thanks to the use of wooden dowels, there are practically no gaps in the rims of the log house, and the structure shrinks faster. Today, the "warm corner" corner joint is the most popular and is considered an uncomplicated way of installing a profiled bar. Material savings and high-speed assembly are some of the advantages of this method, which does not require additional fasteners.

In the process of building houses from timber or logs, they pay great attention to cutting the corners of the structure. There are several types of corner cutting: “thorn-groove” or warm corner; "In the floor of a tree"; Dovetail, one-, two- and four-sided keyway.

The dovetail design is considered the most reliable, as the spike and groove are trapezoidal.

The construction "in the floor of the tree" is a timber with a notch at the end half the height of the product. Before assembly, holes are drilled in the corners of the bar for the dowel, calculating to connect several bars. The structure is fastened with nails, staples or wooden pins.

The most popular and easiest way to cut corners is butt-cut. The beam is installed in a checkerboard pattern, tightly adjacent to each other. This technology allows you to finish building a house in a matter of days. However, when cutting corners into a joint, gaps are formed in the corners, which contributes to the ingress of cold inside the house. Usually, such a house is sheathed, insulated from the outside.

Warm corner in performance

Advantages of the "warm corner" design

1. The ideal shape of the raw material contributes to the impeccable geometry and clear entry of the structural elements, which makes it monolithic and reliable.
2. The "warm corner" system does not require additional fasteners, which saves money and makes the structure not complicated.
3. High-speed assembly due to the finished material contributes to the completion of the construction of houses from a bar in a short time.
4. There are no "bridges of cold", due to which the heat remains inside the room for a long time.
5. The "warm corner" design provides a comfortable interior and exterior decoration, so houses from a bar do not require special decoration.

The strength and heat engineering of a wooden structure to a large extent depend on the type of corner cut. The builders of the old Slavic settlements did not keep secret the options for its manufacture. Thanks to their oral master classes, proven folk technologies were preserved. The carpentry tradition has been greatly enriched by foreign experience and the introduction of useful improvements. A wealth of knowledge has been accumulated. Now in wooden construction, various methods of cutting beams and logs are used, one of which will have to be used to build your own bathhouse.

Two "indigenous" families of cuttings

The fundamental criterion for dividing cutting methods into two large classes is the presence or absence of bypasses. This is how folk craftsmen called the remains of a log, and then a beam that extends at the ends beyond the contour of a wooden structure. Based on this indicator, in the technologies for the construction of log cabins, I distinguish two main felling schemes:

• "Into the bowl", according to which the corners are cut with the remainder... This is the most common method, which has a lot of variations of domestic and foreign origin. The disadvantage of the nodal bowls is the tangible consumption of not cheap material at all, plus excellent thermal insulation of the corner. And the structures cut into a bowl look very impressive.
• "In the paw" or in a simple way "no residue"... According to it, the outline of the structure is lined up clearly according to the plan. With a material consumption equivalent to the previous technology, the internal dimensions of the structure are larger. The corners chopped into a paw require obligatory facing, otherwise they will be blown out and wet. Log buildings built without bypasses can be sheathed with clapboard, block house, plastered, faced with bricks or sandwich panels. Unlike options with bowls, all directions of finishing are applicable here, and sometimes recommended.

One of the fundamental rules is that all corner joints must follow the same pattern. Since the cutting of the timber and the log-bearing walls was carried out according to the scheme "into the bowl", then the partitions will need to be cut in exactly the same way. We immediately draw attention to the fact that all existing methods are applicable for corner joints in log crowns. But a bath from a bar is cut mainly in the paw, but a number of bowl-shaped types are occasionally used.

Both classes of corner cuts are "overgrown" with an impressive number of subsidiary subspecies, differing in the complexity of manufacturing and heat engineering qualities. The choice of the best method is determined by:

• experience of the performer;
• climatic specificity of the area;
• preferred period for taking bath procedures.

For assembling the crowns of a country bathhouse, operated only in the summer, the simplest cutting methods are suitable. Especially if the owner is going to build a bathhouse at his summer cottage on his own. A customer of a brigade of craftsmen who needs a warm building for year-round use should not deny themselves the choice of a complex technological scheme. Information about the differences and features of cuttings will help both the independent contractor and the zealous employer of builders, who is trying to spend money not in vain, to make a reasonable choice.

Cutting options with residue

The most accessible method for making a corner unit for a novice carpenter is considered to be cutting into a bowl, i.e. with the rest of the log at the end. In the "cup" class there are simple and super-complicated technologies. In wood construction, it is important to understand that what is easier to cut will heat and serve less. However, without carpentry skills and knowledge in this art, it is better not to tackle the manufacture of complex structural grooves.

Algorithm for making a simple bowl

For the production of felling into a simple cup in the log, two notches in the form of half-cylinders and a longitudinal inter-crown groove, called a lunar groove, are selected on the sides. All the grooves in the log are made from above, which is very convenient for the master, but not good for the walls. Moisture can easily seep into the openings towards the sky and dust gets through the interfaces, which have lost their density due to shrinkage. Therefore, simple bowls need constant caulking.

The owner of the rounded material does not need to suffer with preliminary preparation. Calibrated logs have a uniform size, often with mounting grooves already selected. Even the manufacture of corner grooves can be done by cylinder manufacturers if they receive an order and intelligible project documentation. The buyer of sawn wood will have to carry out processing: debark, dry, choose a longitudinal lunar furrow for reliable joining of the crowns, and then proceed to felling into the bowl.

The sequence of work on the manufacture of a simple bowl:

• Lay the debarked log in a suitable place for marking in the log house.
• If the longitudinal inter-crown groove has not yet been made, on the thin end of the lower log, in the upper part of which grooves are to be made, we draw a line equal to the width of the future groove.
• We spread the legs of the factory or home-made line to the width of the mounting groove to be marked.
• We attach the line with the legs to the humps of the log laid in the blockhouse and the upper brother being tried on to it, then scratch the lines on the lower log with sharp legs the exact profile of the upper element, "bordering" the log from all sides.
• Having completed the marking of the groove, let us move the legs of the line to a distance equal to half of the average radius of the log laid on top.
• Let us again attach the legs of the drawing carpentry tool to the one being tried on and to the lower log lying across to outline the half-cylinders of the future corner recesses.
• We will remove the upper element of the log house to be tried on, and on the lower log we will make cuts that do not reach the depth of the drawn grooves of 7-10 mm.
• Select the marked grooves with an ax and finish the surface with a scherhebel.

A method for making a corner joint based on the technique of felling a log house into a bowl with a spike is shown in the video:

There is not much difference in the sequence of actions. You can cut the groove first, then the corner grooves, or in the reverse order. The main thing is that all three structural components are precisely hewn out. You will have to pant for any: you will need to try on and trim the excess, if the upper log does not "sit" in the frame. Therefore, there is no need to rush with the final selection to the scratched lines. It is advisable to gradually bring finishing to mind, so as not to spoil the material with too large samples. In the old days, for the first time, the clean-cut mounting recesses were smeared with tar and the upper element was laid on it. The dirty marks indicated where else to hang.

Child bowl options

Cutting a log house into a bowl attracts inexperienced performers with its simplicity and relatively low labor costs. However, without additional locking elements, it does not keep heat well. For the construction of a summer bathhouse, this is quite acceptable. For the construction of a warmer building, it is better to supplement the castle unit with an undercut. The felling method will become more complicated, but the heating technology will improve.

The list of the closest "relatives" of the technology of cutting into a bowl includes:

• Felling in a hulk (aka in a hulp), which is a mirror image of the bowl. This method is also called Siberian felling. It differs in that the corner locks and the moon groove are simply turned upside down. The lower orientation of the grooves excludes the penetration of moisture and dust into the nodal junctions, due to which the insulation does not deteriorate and the frame does not get wet.
• Bowl with a ledge. It appeared as a result of the popular improvement of the methods of cutting and breaking, according to which felling is done either from above or from the bottom of the log. Cutting the bowl with a ledge allows you to position the longitudinal groove at the bottom, and the corner recesses at the top, or do the opposite. Because a log with an inter-row groove will need to be placed in the bowl, the configuration of the recess cannot still be semi-cylindrical. Therefore, a rounded protrusion appeared in the bowl, repeating the radius of the longitudinal mounting groove.
• Cutting into ocher. It consists in the formation of two equivalent rectangular cuttings on the upper and lower sides. The option is simpler than simple, but suitable only for the construction of outbuildings.
• Okhlop with undercut. In order to optimize the strength and thermal insulation of the corner, an undercut is left in the bowl - this is an unselected quarter in the bowl on the inner side of the corner. For docking, you will also need a reciprocal notch in the mating log.
• Fat tail. It differs from a simple bowl by the presence of an additional spike in the groove, which increases the strength of the corner knot. The thorn is called a fat tail or darkness. He gave a name to the method and improved the thermal performance of the log wall. It is possible to orient the wheelhouse to the fat tail in both traditional directions. The bowl is initially cut to half its height, then a thorn is hewn out. The dimensions of the formed thorn are transferred to the mating log without any special tweaks: they are rolled onto the frame and mark with serifs where the reciprocal groove needs to be cut.

Two methods of cutting a log house into a hook are considered quite demanding in relation to the skill and experience of the performer. The first of them predetermines the cutting of half of the bowl, and the remaining, not hewn out half must clearly dock with the semicircular cutting of the mating log. The second technology resembles a bowl with an undercut, but at the same time the logs are cut by one edging, and the hewn side is turned inside the structure. When chopping with a hook, the maximum power of the log is maintained, so the corners are warm and secure.

This is how a simple hook is cut:

Overseas cutting technologies with the remainder

Fundamentally, the Canadian and Swedish felling schemes are similar to the Siberian technique "in the hole". Only the corner grooves and recesses to them have a trapezoidal configuration rather than a rounded section. This is a great plus, because during shrinkage, the Slavic bowls expand, which is why they need periodic podkonopatka. After shrinkage, the Canadian and Swedish notch fits tightly on the log hewn under it. There are no gaps at all, and over the years, the docking also spontaneously thickens.

Their execution technique is different. The external ones can be distinguished by the logs of the "Canadian" log house partially hewn in the area of ​​the castle and the pretty "Swedish" bypasses sharpened on six sides. Canadian technology has a nice simplified successor - saddle chopping.

It is the length of the part of the log that protrudes beyond the contour of the structure that is an extremely demanding aspect of all cut schemes with the remainder. You cannot make a bypass too short, otherwise it will break off. So that the desire to save money does not lead to an emergency state of the log house, GOST number 30974-2002 clearly regulates the maximum distances: from the end of the log to the center of the cut-in bowl, there must be at least 1.4 of the diameter of the log being processed.

Video demonstration of Norwegian felling:

Cutting methods without residue

There are significantly fewer options for felling log cabins in the paw than methods with a bowl. The reason for their appearance was not economic considerations, but the desire to transform the wooden tower into a luxurious palace by means of decoration. The corners cut into the paw are much colder. The capillaries at the ends are open, so it is strongly advised to sew up the outer side of the corner joints in the paw, at least with boards.

For the construction of a log house using the "in the paw" technique, a beam is suitable, a carriage - a log hewn into two vertical edges on opposite sides. Suitable rounding and ordinary round timber with vertical left and right edges - "blockheads". The length of the dummy, i.e. the length of the side run is equal to the largest diameter of the material used. The width of the dummy, i.e. the distance between the grooves is equal to 2/3 or 3/4 of the diameter of the top of the thinnest log in the purchased batch. He must be the first to identify and "fool" as a standard for other logs, so that in the process of work it is not revealed that some of the material does not fit the size of the planned paw. By the way, dummies can be hewn out at once on all logs, and then start making paws of the selected type.

General instructions for making paws

The straight paw is the simplest scheme in the “paw” class, so you can try to make it yourself. She has all the lines of the upcoming teska strictly vertical and horizontal. To make the corner less blown out, the paw can be supplemented with an undercut by extruding this constructive addition from the inner side of the corner. The most reliable connection in the class is considered to be an oblique foot, because the inclined planes do not allow the elements of the log house to turn out and carefully retain heat.

All variations are chopped in an equal sequence:

• The blockhead prepared for processing is again cut from above and below. The depth of the folds should be equal to the width of the block. As a result, we get a parallelogram with one imaginary side and a square section turned towards us;
• We draw the end of the parallelogram into 8 equivalent horizontal parts.
• According to the selected paw type and tabular dimensions, mark and connect the points on the drawn plane;
• Mark the lines of future curtains with the required slopes of the planes and undercuts, if it is decided that they should be;
• Carefully remove the surplus behind the markings and use the first finished paw to make a template for transferring the dimensions to the next logs.

There is no need to independently calculate the dimensions of the slanting paws, they are available in the tables. The craftsmen cut them slowly, meticulously. The lunar groove is scratched out along the logs laid in the blockhouse, pushing the legs of the line apart by the amount of the revealed gap.

Corner cuts in a bar

It is difficult to form a rounded connection in a bar, and it is not necessary, because our own methods have been developed for joining the bar crowns. On the basis of the paws, identical variants were created with very similar names: ocher, half-tree, fat tail.

However, the timber has its own, specific methods and types of corner joints using plug-in or sawn out thorns in the material. The walls, according to the tradition of wooden architecture, are "pierced" with dowels - vertical wooden nails 25-30 cm in diameter and 0.8 times the height of the frame.

However, the timber has its own, specific methods and types of corner joints using plug-in or sawn out thorns in the material. The walls, according to the tradition of wooden architecture, are "pierced" with dowels - vertical wooden nails 25-30 cm in diameter and 0.8 times the height of the frame. It should be remembered that a vertical gap must be left between the elements of any connection in a cobbled and log house to compensate for the standard shrinkage following construction. In the bowls and paws, the maximum clearance is 0.5 cm, in the mounting longitudinal grooves, 1.0 cm.

We have described the common, but far from all existing cut schemes. The difference in the methods of their implementation and in heating technology will tell you which is better to prefer Good luck!

It is warm in winter, cool in summer, houses made of wood, a material with excellent thermal insulation properties, are gaining more and more popularity for a reason. Wood improves the air, fills the space with useful substances and aromas. But how to protect the building from cold winds, frost and heat, to make it truly warm and comfortable - the technology of a warm corner will help.

What is technology?

Quality warm corner

The construction market is replete with offers of wooden houses, the popularity of which is growing day by day. People tired of megacities tend to live in environmentally friendly homes, away from the city, closer to nature. Today, houses made of profiled beams, which meet all the requirements of comfortable housing, are in special demand. The material creates an ideal indoor microclimate and has an attractive appearance.

However, high-quality construction of a log house is possible only with the use of warm corner technology. What is this technology. Simply put, this is the joining of the timber in the corners of the house with the help of protrusions. The tree is sawn in such a way that a tight fit of parts without gaps and crevices is ensured. The corners of the cuts are joined together by a thorn-groove system, that is, one end enters the other absolutely tightly. The crowns add strength to the connection by their own weight, and the whole structure turns out to be reliable and stable.

Important! A warm corner is a strong, locking connection of corners, consisting of surfaces ideally adjacent to each other. Joining the timber to a warm corner guarantees the preservation of heat in winter without blowing and freezing.

An ideal warm corner involves additional insulation of joints and crowns with jute or other materials. There are different ways of cutting joints to form a warm corner, they have been known for a long time. Each method has its own differences, techniques for connecting corner elements.

Methods for joining timber

All existing docking options that form a warm corner have the same fastening principle, the essence of which is that one end of the bar is fixed in the other, only the fastening methods differ.

Advice! When choosing a developer company, give preference to one that, when building a house, does not highlight the construction of warm corners with a separate cost. A self-respecting company that guarantees the quality of work will never emphasize individual technological elements in independent stages of work. If builders offer a joint "butt-to-joint" - refuse their services.

What types of connections guarantee the formation of warm corners.

Docking to the floor of the tree

This is the name of the option for joining a bar, in which half the width of the bar is cut on one wall, and half on the other, the cuts are connected by an angle. This docking option is not as reliable as a paw connection.

Docking in the paw

Docking in the paw can be done with or without the remainder (when the end of the bar enters the corner of the wall). A notch is made in the wood, and the end of another bar is put into a paw. When cutting into a paw without a residue, a perfectly flat bar is needed; when cutting with a remainder, the length of the logs should be half a meter longer. Felling into a paw has varieties, they are joined in a paw with an undercut, a paw with a tooth. The junction of the labyrinth and the dovetail is also a type of paw felling.

Docking dovetail

The method of attaching the dovetail is otherwise called an oblique paw, it differs in that the cuts are made trapezoidal. This method is considered the most reliable and sustainable for the construction of the house. A variation of this method is docking in half a dovetail, when the spike is cut in a conical shape, this connection is used when the bar is shorter than the wall, which it seems to be catching with a hook.

Straight tenon connection

A straight tenon connection is used when the length of the wall and the timber are the same, suitable for small buildings. A groove is sawn in one bar, a spike in the other, the connection can be perfectly matched, which is required by the warm corner technology. A variation of this joint is the angled tenon. In this case, the thorn is made in a triangular shape. The connection is also tight and reliable.

Important! For the construction of a residential building using the warm corner technology, you should buy a profiled beam with a thickness of 140-200 mm, another thickness is not possible for this.

So, a reliable and effective connection of a warm corner used in low-rise construction should be as tight as possible. The mating beams are cut from a third or a quarter of the thickness of the timber; jute or felt insulation of vegetable origin is used to completely seal the connection.

To give greater strength to the connection, wooden pins with a round section, through or blind type, can be used. The pins contribute to providing more tight connections, the shrinkage of the house will be faster and more correct. The joints alternate in a checkerboard pattern, even with a thorn, odd with a groove.

Technology pros

The correct application of technology contributes to the tightness of the structure, but not only. Pros:

• reducing the cost of fasteners;
• improving the quality of the construction of the house;
• significant reduction in heat loss;
• increased efficiency during operation;
• the aesthetic significance of the structure;
• saving building material.

The profiled timber of natural moisture changes its geometry during drying, it can be skewed, bent. After installation, wood shrinkage occurs in a fixed position, which eliminates the deformation of the timber. Since the cutting of the groove-spike elements is done in advance, at the stage of preparation, the assembly of the house itself does not require a lot of time and labor. Everyone can assemble a house with their own hands, saving money on this.

Advice! At the preliminary stage, you should not refuse to consult with experienced craftsmen, first you should learn how to make blanks, understand the intricacies of the technological process, and only then, carry out an independent assembly of a house or a bath.

The disadvantages of the technology include the complexity of its implementation. Cutting the fittings correctly with a perfect fit requires practical knowledge and skills. An incorrectly cut spike during shrinkage can lead to cracking of the timber.

All photos from the article

The assembly of a bar into a warm corner is considered by most craftsmen as one of the most effective methods for arranging a joint of logs. This mounting method ensures a reliable connection of parts even without fasteners.

In addition, the design minimizes the contact of the inner surface of the timber with the external environment. Accordingly, due to the configuration of the angle, blowing is reduced and heat loss is reduced.

How the timber is laid in a warm corner and what are its main advantages, we will tell in our article.

General principles of forming corner joints

Cutting the corners of a log or log building is one of the most difficult and time-consuming stages in the assembly of a log house. The design of the corner determines how effectively the structure will withstand deformations, whether it will be sufficiently durable, and how the walls will react to heat loss.

Today, the practice is to form corner joints both with and without a remainder. You can compare these techniques in the table below:

As you can see from the table, the corner joining of a bar to a warm corner belongs to the category of joints without a residue, while the technique itself provides very good thermal insulation. How this happens and how to implement it in practice - we will tell you in the next section.

Methodology overview

Installation technology

If you are assembling a wooden log house with your own hands, then the result of all the work largely depends on your skill in arranging connections. This is all the more true when it comes to a design such as a "warm corner".

This connection is made according to the following scheme:

1. Cut a thorn on the middle or on the inside of the end of the timber... The length of the thorn should be about 1/2 of, and the width - from 1/3 to 1/2 of the same value.

Important! On the outer part of the part, the spike is not cut out, since in this case neither the strength nor the tightness of the connection is ensured.

1. A recess is cut out symmetrically to the location of the spike on the side surface of the second bar... The dimensions of the recess should be equal or several millimeters larger than the dimensions of the spike.
2. The shape of the protrusions and depressions can be different Most often they are made rectangular (root spine), but sometimes parts are cut out in the form of unequal trapezoids (dovetail). The second option is much more complicated in execution, since you need to monitor the correspondence of the angles, but on the other hand, such a docking holds up much better.

1. When laying crowns, spikes and grooves must be alternated... So, if on the odd crown on the left we cut a thorn, then on the even one there should be a groove. This design allows you to provide the necessary rigidity and block the displacement of the bars in the horizontal plane.

The assembly instructions are quite simple:

• put a layer of jute sealant in the recess;
• insert the protruding part and push the bar to the end, if necessary, upsetting it with a mallet;
• if the dovetail is being installed, then we install the spike in the groove from top to bottom, hammering in until the parts to be joined are in the same plane.

Advice! When assembling a profiled beam into a warm corner, you need to ensure that the profile locks are not damaged during the installation of parts.

Advantages and disadvantages

This method of cutting a corner has an impressive list of advantages:

1. Tight joining of elements without metal fasteners and through slots provides a high level of thermal insulation. That is why a warm corner of the walls made of timber for a bath is almost the only acceptable option, and for a residential building it is very desirable.

1. With proper installation, the connection is perfectly flat, which contributes to an even distribution of operating loads.
2. The convenient shape of the joined parts greatly facilitates the assembly: if the dimensions are observed accurately enough, then the formation of the joint will take only a few minutes.
3. Both outside and inside, the connection looks very neat, since the integrity of the timber is minimally disturbed. This reduces the cost of caulking and finishing.

There are fewer disadvantages of this technique, but you should also be aware of them:

1. The design requires a high culture of manufacture: both the spikes and the grooves must be cut with minimum tolerances, otherwise a significant part of the thermal insulation potential will be lost.
2. During the installation process, you need to be very careful, trying not to violate the geometry of the corner when upsetting the timber.

However, experienced craftsmen are well aware of these shortcomings, and try to compensate for them with their skills. At first, beginners will have to do all the work very carefully.

Conclusion

The warm corner of a log house is assembled according to a specific algorithm given above. If you want to master this technique, then we recommend that you first watch the video in this article, and then practice: it is better to spend some time, but to cope with the work at the highest level.

The joints of the timber in the corners and straight walls of the house require strength and tightness. The humidity of the building material has a huge effect on the tightness of a log house. If you build a house from a bar of natural moisture, during shrinkage and shrinkage, the frame will experience significant internal stresses, which can lead to its deformations.

Using lumber that has been dried to 20%, you can kill several problems in the bud at once - cracks, cracks, heavy settling, etc. Ideally, use profiled or glued timber from chamber-drying lamellas for a log house. The shrinkage of such a log house will be minimal.

A second method to avoid blowing corners is to make those corners with special, complex joint shapes.

The corners must be solid. The frame is acted upon by forces from possible ground movements, from its own weight and the weight of the roof, roof and snow, as well as pressure from the force of the wind. The corners must withstand all loads, and in addition, withstand deformations from fluctuations in linear dimensions due to rain, snow and changes in heat and humidity conditions.

Corner connection with remainder

Very important advantages of this type of felling:

• Air blowing from the street is minimal, even in strong winds and in frost;
• High reliability. Even not fixed with dowels, the beams, connected in the corners by one of the types of felling with the remnant, do not move even with moderate movements of the foundation soils under the influence of heaving or seismicism. The bottom rims hold the weight of the top rims and tightly join the corners.

The main types of felling with the remainder

Cutting method with one-sided locking groove

This method is equally good for square and profiled beams. One side of the bar is sawn out with the formation of a groove perpendicular to the axis of the bar. The thickness of the groove is equal to half the thickness of the timber, the width and length of the groove are the same. The lock is obtained when this groove accommodates ½ of the timber located perpendicular to it. Such a crown is tightly fixed in relation to the underlying crown of one direction. Additional fixation with pins gives the corner sufficient strength.

Felling with a double-sided locking groove

This type of felling is a little more difficult - you will have to choose the grooves from both the upper edge of the bar and the lower one. The grooves in this case have the same width as in the one-sided groove method and a depth equal to ¼ of the thickness. Double-sided selection of grooves takes twice as long and requires greater accuracy, but it gives an undeniable advantage - rigid fixation of each pair of beams, not in one, but in two directions. That is, there is already spatial rigidity. Now, with any temperature and humidity fluctuations, the shift of the bars and crowns relative to each other is almost impossible.

Felling with a four-sided locking groove

It is a very complex felling, the grooves can be both symmetrical and asymmetrical, and it is extremely laborious to select such a complex groove manually. Typically, such complex grooves with ideal geometry are made on equipment that produces house kits. Then, at the construction site, these kits are assembled from numbered bars, like Lego constructors.

Difficult and expensive processing, but there is no practical improvement in the tightness of the corner, although in theory such an angle should become perfectly ideal.

The main types of felling without residue

The corner without residue gives savings in lumber. The beam is entirely in the plane of the wall, the ends do not protrude outward. But there is no overall savings, since these corners require additional insulation and caulking. In terms of strength, reliability and protection against blowing, these types of felling are also inferior to the corners felled with the remainder. Competition can only be made by a warm corner, which is also a root thorn.

The cabin without residue allows you to make the facade of the house more strict geometrically, it is easier to carry out external finishing. The issue of aesthetics is controversial, and more related to style.

Without a remainder, the corners are cut both from a square bar and from a profiled one.

End-to-end cutting without residue

The easiest and fastest way to build a farm building. No additional processing is required, just stack the beams of the required lengths in a checkerboard pattern. So that the bars in the crowns and the crowns themselves do not move relative to each other, with this method of cutting, fasteners must be used - overhead plates made of galvanized steel, steel staples or wooden pins.

Labor costs in this case are minimal, carpentry experience may be completely absent. If you make a blockhouse in this way from a dried timber, you can get an acceptable result. From raw lumber, as the carpenters say, with any effort, the corner will walk after shrinkage. The angle will deform, and fluctuations in humidity will contribute to linear fluctuations, resulting in blown gaps.

Butt cutting on dowels

The key can be of different shapes. For a straight key, you will need to choose straight grooves along the ends and side surfaces of adjacent beams. Under the dovetail key, it is required to choose a rather complex groove, with broadenings from the middle. The key also has a complex shape.

A straight key connection will prevent the crown bars from moving horizontally, but not vertically. Vertically, the crowns will be held only by their own weight and by the weight of the overlying structures. The dovetail key will securely lock the angle and prevent the bars from moving in both directions. This method of cutting without residue gives a virtually windproof angle.

Half-tree felling

Also a simple felling. At the ends of the beams, cuts are made by ½ of the thickness, a spike is obtained that is the same in length and width. Without fixing with pins, this connection will not be reliable. After the shrinkage and settlement of the log house, the corner will most likely be blown out and will require additional insulation. The second caulking of log cabins after aging and precipitation is always done.

As with butt felling, you can modify this method by securing the corners with dowels. In this case, the bars will not move.

You can also improve the method of cutting in half a tree by joining the ends in a paw. The paw has a more complex shape - the cuts are made oblique, wedge-shaped, exactly in size. The result is an increase in the strength of the frame, the beams are fixed relative to each other in the crowns, and the weight of the overlying crowns prevents the displacement of the underlying ones. The corner looks aesthetically pleasing from the inside and outside, the facade of the house is geometric and smooth.

Warm corner connection (root spike)

It is considered the warmest, windproof compound and at the same time guarantees the fixation of the crowns. The method is not the most difficult:

The ends are cut, leaving spikes, and the length and width of which should be exactly 1/3 of the section of the bar. A simpler thorn has the shape of a rectangle, a more complex thorn with one-sided broadening. The grooves of the abutting beams are selected according to the size of these spikes, but without an exact fit, since the grooves need to be caulked with moss, linen or jute fiber, hemp or felt. Bars with spikes are placed on top of the bars with grooves. Fastening the crowns with dowels with this method of felling is mandatory.

Fastening the bars with dowels

• The classic wood for dowels is birch, which does not have defects, knots and cross-layers, as well as with a parallel arrangement of fibers relative to the longitudinal axis.
• The optimal length of the pins is 0.8 of the sum of the height of the two rims to be connected. Sometimes not two, but three beams are connected with one dowel. The diameters of the pins are from 25 to 35 mm.
• The pins are installed in an interval of up to 1.5 m, and always on both sides of each corner. The pins are shifted along the horizontal rows in a checkerboard pattern.

Connections of bars along the length

Long straight wall sections can exceed the length of the lumber. The splicing of the timber along the length is done in one plane. The requirements for connections are the same as for corners - strength and tightness.

The easiest way to join the timber along the length is the connection on rectangular dowels. The crowns will be securely fixed in the transverse direction; such a joint will not be blown through. The key is cut slightly less than the groove to leave gaps for the caulking. Seal the grooves for the dowel with moss, jute and linen fiber and other material.

The method of joining the bars with a root spike is more difficult and more effective. Direct splicing is technologically a bit simpler than angular splicing, but it also requires precision. Gaps between the groove and the tenon should be a few mm in order to pave them with caulking.

The most difficult, costly in terms of material and labor, and at the same time the best type of splicing in a straight line in terms of results is docking with an oblique lock. Measurements must be accurate and close to perfect fit. The configuration of the castle is tricky. As a result, two beams have two completely overlapped sections in the joint, which gives the joint strength, and the cunning shape of the oblique lock makes it impossible for a gap to appear even with significant shrinkage.