– this in itself is an extremely responsible task that requires special care, consistency of action, and strict adherence to the developed technological recommendations. Whatever roofing material is used, it should ultimately provide one hundred percent protection of the building from the destructive effects of precipitation.

One of the most vulnerable components from the point of view of possible water penetration and difficult to install is the connection of the roof to the chimney or ventilation pipe. The durability of the rafter system, the attic floor, and often even the finishing in the house itself directly depends on how well such areas are sealed. Therefore, it is very important to treat this stage of roofing work with special attention and accuracy.

Features of arranging the passage of a chimney through the roof

A high-quality connection of the roofing material to the pipe can be made only if the roof has a reliable rigid sheathing, corresponding to the type of roof and the steepness of the slopes, on which the load will be evenly distributed both from the mass of the roof system itself and from external influences.

• The best option is when the chimney pipe is installed before the sheathing is installed. That is, in most The design of the rafter system provides for a passage for it, reinforced with additional parts. In such cases, joining sheet or piece roofing material to the pipe will be much easier than in those cases when it is necessary to organize a passage for the newly erected pipe in the finished sheathing.
• If the pipe is installed later, then in order to make room for the passage of the chimney, it will be necessary to dismantle some elements of the sheathing, which may well weaken the overall structure.
• It is also necessary to ensure in advance that the pipe does not rest on the rafter leg, since its partial or complete dismantling is an extremely undesirable operation. If the pipe does end up on one of the rafters, and part of it has to be removed, then before carrying out this process, it is necessary to immediately install supporting posts under the remaining parts, which are fixed to the floor beams. In addition, most often it is also necessary to connect parts of this leg with entire rafters and horizontal jumpers.
• Whichever option was not considered, around the chimney pipe it is necessary to equip an additional reliable frame, which must be firmly connected to other elements of the rafter system and roof sheathing.

Prices for chimney pipes

chimney pipe

• The clearance between the chimney and the elements of the rafter system is regulated by the rules of SNiP 41-01-2003, paragraph 6.6.22. It states that the distance from the surfaces of concrete and brick chimney pipes to any parts of the rafter system and roofing “pie” made of flammable material should be no less than 130 mm. For ceramic pipes that do not have insulation, this clearance should be at least 250 mm, and if there is thermal insulation, also at least 130 mm.

Remaining not closed space between the pipe and flammable or even low-flammable roofing coverings, only completely non-flammable materials (usually sheet metal is used for these purposes).

Design of junctions between the roofing covering and the pipe

When a reliable foundation for arranging the connection of the roofing material to the chimney is ready, you can proceed to the installation of coating sealing elements.

The design of the system for connecting the coating to the pipe can be different, depending on the selected roofing material. The functions that are assigned to the elements included in the junction structure are sealing and waterproofing the joints of the roof covering and ventilation or chimney pipes, as well as draining and redirecting the flow of water flowing from the roof ridge to the pipe above.

The layout of such a junction should ideally be determined when drawing up the design of the rafter system and roofing system. The fact is that some options involve the installation of individual structural parts before laying the roofing.

In addition to the type of roof chosen for covering the roof, when drawing up the project, you should also take into account the location of the chimney pipe, its shape, as well as the material from which it is made.

Professional builders usually recommend using only ready-made structures that are produced by roofing manufacturers for arranging junctions. However, many craftsmen prefer to make these parts themselves.

It should be noted that a chimney pipe passing through the roof directly at the ridge line of the roof is the easiest to seal. With this arrangement, water during rain, as well as snow drifts in winter, do not have the opportunity to accumulate above the rear wall of the pipe, which minimizes the risk of roof leakage in this, perhaps, the most vulnerable junction.

It will not be difficult to arrange a reliable connection of the roofing material to the chimney, which is also located in close proximity to the ridge line, that is, almost immediately behind the ridge element. There is also a very small space above the pipe, which prevents the accumulation of snow and water.

But performing high-quality sealing of a chimney located in the middle or lower part of the roof slope is much more difficult. In this case, waterproofing must be especially reliable. Therefore, quite often, and especially, for example, when the roof is covered with a soft bitumen roof, it is necessary to equip an additional pitched structure - as shown in the illustration above. Such a special break in the roof will divert water flows, directing them along the side walls of the pipe. Such protective extensions to the pipe are usually called grooves.

And, of course, the most difficult thing is to properly arrange the junction around the chimney, which is located in the middle or lower part of the valley. In this case, the pipe will be in the path of clearly directed flows of water, which during rain or melting snow will flow into the gutter at the junction of the slopes. In this case, it is extremely important to reliably seal not only the back side of the pipe, but also its side lines. Therefore, even at the design stage, it is necessary to try very hard to avoid such a pipe location.

Now, in order to answer the most popular questions that arise in the process of arranging this roof assembly, it is necessary to consider several options for sealing pipe passages through the roof.

Sealing of passages of round pipes

As you know, stoves and fireplaces in recent years are increasingly equipped with round chimney pipes of different diameters. Modern metal chimney pipes most often represent a “sandwich structure”, that is, they consist of three layers - two metal cylinders, outer and inner, and a layer of thermal insulation between them. Basalt-based mineral wool is usually used as thermal insulation.

Prices for metal tiles

metal tiles

Manufacturers have provided special elements - penetrations - to seal the junction of such round pipes to the roof covering. These parts can be made of metal or of an elastic, heat-resistant composite material, which is mounted in conjunction with metal elements.

In principle, the same principle is used to construct a hermetically sealed roof connection for ventilation pipes.

Metal penetration for round pipes

Options for finished metal products for arranging the junction of the roof with round pipes usually consist of two parts. This is an apron cap and the so-called "sole", which is a rigid base and made of a steel sheet on which the manufacturer attaches the cap. Metal penetrations differ from each other in the angle of slope of the bottom plate of the structure in relation to the cap, therefore, they are selected depending on the slope of the roof. As a rule, in specialized stores you can always find the desired version of the products, since they are produced for roof slopes of various slopes.

Before installing the structure on the roof, the upper part of the hood is cut to the diameter of the chimney pipe, since it must pass freely through the hole in the hood. Then, the “sole” is rigidly fixed to the roof surface using roofing screws, onto which sealing elastic gaskets made of rubber or neoprene are put on.

Very often, when installing a metal penetration on a relief roof covering, to enhance the sealing of the junction, a metal sheet is fixed above the pipe, which is brought under the ridge element and fixed with an overlay on the upper side of the “bottom” of the penetration.

After the sole is fixed to the roof surface and the pipe is passed through the penetration, the upper edge of the cap is pressed against the chimney using a special clamp in which a heat-resistant elastic gasket is installed. This element will protect the junction of two elements from moisture entering it.

Ready-made elastic penetrations

As mentioned above, in addition to metal penetrations, you can also find elastic ones on sale, equipped at the bottom with a sole made of soft flexible metal, such as lead or aluminum. Through this plastic, but preserving the shape given to it, spacer, framing the “bottom” of the penetration, it is fixed to the sheathing, through the surface of the roofing material. The cap itself is made of weather-resistant elastic rubber, and tightly covers the pipe around the circumference, especially since it is usually also “grabbed” with a metal clamp.

Slate prices

The advantage of elastic penetrations is their versatility, since they can be installed on slopes that are built at any slope. Thanks to the flexibility of the combined penetration base, it is easy to shape the base of the roofing material.

Such flexible penetrations for round pipes are often called “master flash”. There is no shortage of such products in our time. And installation is very simple and accessible to any home owner.

Video: installation of an elastic penetration for a “master-flash” chimney

Sealing the junction of the roof to a round pipe using aluminum or lead tape

In cases where for some reason it is not possible to use ready-made penetrations to seal pipe passages, then special self-adhesive aluminum or lead tape can be used to perform this work. Due to the flexibility, heat resistance and versatility of this material, you can use it to form a penetration yourself.

The vertical part of the pipe with the transition to the roofing is covered with pieces of tape. And then the tape is secured around the chimney - thus sealed abutment joint.

This material is highly resistant to various external negative influences: high and low temperatures and their sudden changes, moisture, ultraviolet radiation,

In order for the tape to provide high-quality waterproofing of the junction, and the sealing to last as long as possible, the tape must be applied to a clean, degreased and dried surface of both pipes and roofs.

Options for sealing the junction of the roof to rectangular or square pipes

To arrange connections around pipes with a rectangular or square cross-section (most often brick), ready-made standard systems manufactured by roofing manufacturers are also used. In this regard, when purchasing this or that roofing material, you can immediately buy or order a set of penetration parts for a brick or concrete chimney according to specific sizes.

This standard version, made of sheet metal, can be used for roofing materials such as, profiled sheet, as well as the familiar slate of the old and new modifications. For the above-mentioned coatings, the joint sealing scheme shown below is usually used.

So, before the roofing sheets are fixed to the sheathing frame, preparatory work is carried out, which includes the following steps.

• Additional sheathing bars are fixed around the pipe; their cross-sectional size can be the same as that of other sheathing elements.
• Then, from the front wall of the pipe down to the eaves of the roof, it is fixed, so-called"tie", equipped flanged on both sides. The tie is usually made from galvanized sheet metal.
• Next, around the pipe, on top of the “tie”, a wall profile is laid and secured. Its upper edge, which has a bend in the opposite direction measuring 8÷10 mm, is inserted into a pre-cut groove on the chimney wall.
• Then, at this junction of the wall apron and the pipe wall, it is necessary to apply a weather-resistant sealant, that is, intended for external work.
• The next step is the installation of roofing material.
• The final stage is the installation and fastening of the external wall profile - an apron consisting of four elements installed on all sides of the pipe. These apron parts are screwed to the walls of the chimney, and are also fastened together at its corners.

Another, more modern option for sealing the junction involves the use of self-adhesive waterproofing lead tape, which is convenient for use both on level ground and on any embossed roofing covering.

When using such a tape, it must be fixed on the surfaces of the pipe walls using special metal clamping strips, which can be made independently. The upper junction of the planks with the walls of the pipe must be additionally covered with a layer of weather-resistant sealant.

Flexible waterproofing self-adhesive tape is perfect for sealing the junction of roofing coverings with high enough relief pattern, since it easily takes its shape when gluing and retains it. This tape is often used to cover joints if the roof is covered with ceramic tiles, slate or ondulin.

Prices for ceramic tiles

ceramic tiles

Sealing the junction of an ondulin roof to a brick chimney pipe - step by step

It was already mentioned above that many manufacturers of roofing materials strive to accompany their products with proprietary systems for sealing pipe passages. One example is the design system for the connection to a pipe of the wavy cellulose-bitumen roofing material Ondulin, which is quite popular in our time.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	In this case, an option is presented for arranging the connection of a roof covered with ondulin to a stove or fireplace pipe of rectangular cross-section. The sealing system will be installed after laying the roofing material on the sheathing. The gap between the coating and the sides of the pipe, as well as below it, should be 20÷30 mm. On the rear side of the chimney, that is, facing the ridge, the distance between the pipe wall and the sheathing beam can vary between 50 and 100 mm.
	In order to secure the sealing apron around the perimeter of the pipe, it is necessary to include in advance additional sheathing elements into the roof structure, which are fixed along the walls of the chimney pipe. For this additional sheathing, a timber with a cross-sectional size of 40×40, 40×30 or 50×30 mm is suitable.
	The first step is to close the junction at the junction of the roof with the pipe on the front side of the pipe with a covering apron made specifically for ondulin. Typically, the manufacturer of roofing material also produces additional elements for the design of junctions, ridges and other complex and vulnerable covering components. Therefore, when purchasing material, you must immediately inquire about the range of additional elements, and, making preliminary calculations, they must be immediately included in the project.
	The covering apron is applied to the place of its future installation - along the lower edge of the pipe facing the eaves. Markings are made on the apron along which it will be necessary to make cuts. The upper, flat part of the apron should remain exactly the width of the pipe, and the wavy part should have one wave on each side. In this case, it is necessary to cut the wavy part along the lower crest of the wave. First, markings are made with a pencil.
	And then the apron is cut according to the applied markings. It is most convenient to cut the part with a sharp construction knife.
	Next, the finished apron is pressed against the pipe and fixed to the roof surface using branded roofing nails. The nails must enter through the ondulin into the sheathing beam installed around the pipe.
	In this case, nails are driven into the top of each wave of the apron relief. Fastening is not carried out only on the extreme waves that extend beyond the dimensions of the pipe on both sides. It is very important to drive the nails in correctly, strictly vertical to the roof surface. And balance the efforts so as not to deform the coating if the fasteners are hammered in too much.
	Now you need to prepare the Onduflash-super waterproofing self-adhesive tape. This material is excellent for sealing difficult areas - the butyl rubber component has excellent waterproofing qualities, and the aluminum base allows the tape to be given very complex shapes. The standard tape width is 300 mm. The length of the first segment should be 250÷300 mm
	The cut piece of tape is applied to the future installation site and is pre-bent along the relief of the corner to be sealed. The function of this segment will be to seal the edges of the previously fixed apron.
	After fitting the tape to the installation site, the protective film covering the adhesive layer is removed from its back side.
	The tape is applied at the junction of the roof and the pipe at the front corners so that it can simultaneously cover the upper and lower parts of the apron by 70÷80 mm. In order for the tape to bend into the required position and fit tightly to the material of the roof, apron and pipe, its corner is trimmed.
	Next, the tape must be pressed with good force onto all surfaces. It is especially important that the tape fits as tightly as possible along the joint line. First, such sealing is carried out on one lower corner of the pipe, and then the same is done on the opposite side.
	The next step is to apply a side apron to the pipe. The part is pressed against the roof surface and the side wall of the pipe and the cut lines are marked.
	The cuts at the top of the apron must be made clearly along the vertical boundaries of the pipe, that is, the edges of the apron are cut at a certain angle. And the lower part of the part, located on the roofing, should extend beyond the pipe in both its lower and upper parts by 100÷150 mm.
	The cuts are made along the marked lines using a sharp knife. First, a metal ruler is applied to the marking and a knife must be drawn along it with gentle pressure.
	That is, the apron material is cut through approximately ⅔ of its thickness. Then, due to a slight bending force, the apron part neatly breaks off along the cut line.
	The next step is to nail the prepared side parts of the apron to the roofing surface, under which additional sheathing elements are fixed. It is enough to drive three nails into each of the side parts of the apron - one in the center and one at the top and bottom.
	Next, a piece is cut from the waterproofing self-adhesive tape, the length exceeding the width of the pipe by 200 mm. This section will be used to seal the rear, most vulnerable part of the chimney pipe penetration.
	The cut part of the waterproofing tape is applied to the place of its future installation and bent along the line where the roofing sheets adjoin the pipe. At the same time, they try to immediately give its lower part the maximum shape that repeats the waves of ondulin sheets.
	Next, the protective film is carefully removed from the tape, and the waterproofing material is pressed tightly against the surface of the pipe and the roofing. The sides of the tape are cut so that the top of the cut parts can be glued to the sides of the pipe, where the apron elements are already fixed. Thus, the tape isolates the junction of the side element of the apron with the pipe wall, preventing drops of water from penetrating here during rain.
	The next task is to glue the waterproofing tape to the front side of the pipe. It is fixed on top of the front upper part of the apron, that is, the one that extends onto the pipe. The width of the tape should be 100÷150 mm, and its length should exceed the width of the pipe by 200÷300 mm, since it will bend onto the sides of the pipe and hide under the side parts of the apron. The tape must also be pressed very well against the brick or plaster surface of the pipe.
	Next, the upper edge of the waterproofing tape on the front side of the chimney is pressed with a metal fixing strip. It is secured with dowels.
	The same strips are screwed to the sides of the pipe, 15÷17 mm below the edge of the apron. The photo clearly shows how the fixing strip should be positioned, the ends of which are cut along the line of the pipe corners.
	Next, the edges of the apron remaining on top of the screwed side clamping strips must be slightly bent from the surface of the pipe.
	Now this formed corner between the pipe wall and the slightly bent edge of the apron is tightly filled with a layer of polyurethane sealant. For this operation you will need a special construction syringe gun.
	Now all that remains is to cut out and lay an additional piece of ondulin on the back side of the pipe. Its width should be equal to the width of the side elements of the apron. and the length is from the ridge to the pipe. An additional piece of ondulin is laid on top of the already laid covering, as well as on top of the waterproofing tape glued to it and the pipe.
	The laid additional fragment of ondulin is nailed to the sheathing directly through the coating that has cooled below. Fixation is carried out with roofing nails driven into the top of each wave of the covering.
	When the arrangement of the junction of the roofing material to the pipe is completed, you can proceed to further installation of the ridge elements. This ridge element will cover the upper edge of the additional ondulin sheet on top of the pipe.

The information presented above quite convincingly indicates that there is nothing supernaturally difficult in sealing the area where the roof adjoins the chimney pipe. This kind of work can be done on your own. However, you should not forget about compliance with all safety requirements, since the work will take place at high altitude. Carrying out any installation operations on roof slopes without safety devices is extremely frivolous!

At the end of the publication, we suggest watching a video that shows in detail the process of sealing the junction of a tiled roof.

Video: Sealing the junction of a ceramic tile roof to a pipe

The protruding part of the chimney pipe is easily exposed to negative environmental influences: temperature changes, rain, snow, wind.

Condensation, which is formed as a result of a temperature difference between the air and the pipe, has a destructive effect on the chimney.

Methods for finishing a chimney on the roof

When the construction of a brick masonry pipe is completed, then, according to construction rules, it is necessary to cover the space between the roof and the chimney with non-combustible roofing material. For this purpose, a protective apron is made.

A protective apron is made around the perimeter of the pipe at the junction with the roof. The apron is made of steel or galvanized sheet in two layers. The first layer is attached under the roofing material, and the second layer is laid on top of the roofing covering. The joints between the apron and the pipe must be sealed.

The protective apron is also called a collar or salary. You can make it yourself or purchase it ready-made.

• if the chimney masonry is made of low-quality material;
• if additional insulation of the pipe is required to ensure good traction;
• if the appearance of the chimney does not match the appearance of the house.

Before lining the chimney, it is necessary to make a frame for the lining material. The frame is made of metal guides or bars coated with an antiseptic.

Table of types of corrugated sheets.

Various materials that have non-flammable properties are used for cladding:

• corrugated sheeting It is galvanized metal coated with polymer paint. It can be smooth or profiled;
• clinker brick. It is durable, weather resistant and compatible with many roofing materials;
• artificial or natural stone. It is often used for finishing facades;
• lime-cement plaster. This method is applicable when the facade of the house is plastered and the building is a solid structure;
• cement fiber boards. This material has an attractive appearance, and its range is available in various colors.
• ready-made double-circuit design. It is a part of a pipe equipped with a steel channel. Finished structures can be faced with brick, plaster or reinforced mesh. They are quite comfortable and have an attractive appearance.

Return to contents

Chimney lining with corrugated sheeting

Profile sheets are widely used for finishing facades, roofing, and also for the construction of fences. Chimney lining with corrugated sheeting is considered the most popular due to the good characteristics of this material:

• simple installation and ease of maintenance;
• durability;
• light weight;
• resistance to temperature changes;
• non-flammability;
• environmental Safety.

Corrugated sheet is a steel sheet with a profile section. The section of the profile sheet is presented in different shapes, depending on the scope of the material.

The material is most often produced galvanized or steel, coated with polymer paint.

Table of technical characteristics of corrugated sheets.

The structure of this finishing material is a kind of “sandwich”:

• thin rolled steel;
• anti-corrosion zinc coating;
• chromate layer;
• primer;
• paintwork.

Corrugated sheeting is distinguished by a huge assortment, since the range of its use is quite extensive. The main types of profiled sheets are:

• combined. This material is universal, as it is intended for various designs;
• galvanized. Used for roofing;
• colored;
• aluminum. It has high moisture resistance and durability;
• roofing Used for covering roofs and cladding facades;
• facing. Designed for lining chimneys and protecting structures from the damaging effects of the environment;

Corrugated sheeting is one of the most popular materials in modern construction.

The stove is folded, and the chimney proudly rises above the roof of the house. Do you think the work is finished? Not at all - it's time to think about how to insulate the chimney pipe and protect the house from fire and the roof from leaks. It’s good if you thought about this issue while designing the stove - in this case, the insulation of the chimney will be reliable and safe. It is more difficult to insulate an already built chimney; sometimes this work entails changing the design of the floors and roof. However, the costs will be offset by a feeling of security and comfort.

It is necessary to insulate the chimney from two negative destructive factors: from overheating of structures and from leaks at the joints. Therefore, in this article we will consider two types of chimney insulation:

• Fireproof thermal insulation;
• Waterproofing.

It is recommended to immediately carry out comprehensive insulation, solving not only the main problems, but also improving the operating conditions of the furnace. For example, insulating a pipe running through an unheated attic reduces the risk of overheating of wood roofing elements and reduces the risk of condensation that can lead to excessive soot deposits, corrosion or pipe failure. Waterproofing the pipe will help avoid rotting of the rafter system and ceilings, as well as pipe destruction if it gets wet.

Methods of fireproof insulation of chimneys

The simplest and most reliable, but not always the cheapest, way is to install a “sandwich” chimney made of ceramic or metal. In such chimneys, the inner pipe, which performs the function of removing smoke, is made of heat-resistant steel or ceramics and is thermally insulated with non-flammable insulation: mineral, stone or basalt wool. The outer layer of a sandwich chimney is made of steel or ready-made expanded clay concrete blocks.

Prefabricated ceramic chimney - a safe solution to the problem

Prefabricated chimneys are equipped with elements for fastening, inspection, maintenance, as well as for connecting several heating devices. Installation of such a chimney is simple, but requires following the instructions, only then will it be completely safe.

Thermal insulation of sandwich type pipes

Video - sandwich diaphragm for passing pipes through ceilings

Another insulation method used when building a stove is a brick chimney. Due to the low thermal conductivity of the brick, its walls do not heat up to dangerously high temperatures, so no additional measures to insulate such a chimney are required, except for the correct implementation of fireproof cutting of the floors and roof. To save money and facilitate construction, a brick chimney is sometimes finished with a pipe made of metal or ceramics. In this case, they are thermally insulated using the technology described below.

Thermal insulation of metal and ceramic single pipes is possible using boxes made of non-combustible materials and mineral non-combustible thermal insulation - stone or basalt wool. It is possible to operate such chimneys without thermal insulation, but fire-proof cutting according to all the rules is mandatory in any case.

Methods of waterproofing chimneys

Chimney waterproofing is installed where it exits onto the roof. The larger the pipe and the farther from the ridge it is located, the more difficult operating conditions await it: when it rains, more abundant flows of water, in winter - an increased snow load. Rain and melt water, if waterproofing is insufficient, penetrates inside the house, leading to leaks, rotting of wood and destruction of concrete and brick structures, including the chimney itself.

The method of waterproofing depends largely on the shape of the pipe and the type of roofing. For round pipes, metal or polymer grooves are used, for rectangular pipes, metal aprons and junction strips are used. How to waterproof a pipe is described in detail in the article, and then we will talk about the technology of thermal insulation of the chimney.

Chimney pipe insulation

Before proceeding with the insulation of the chimney pipe, it is necessary to check compliance with the requirements of SNiP 2.04.05-91 and, if necessary, correct the shortcomings:

• The height of the pipe to ensure good draft and permissible temperature of the flue gases at the outlet should be 5 meters or more;
• If the roofing is a combustible material - slate, ondulin, roofing felt - a spark arrester - a fine-mesh metal mesh - must be placed on top of the pipe;
• The distance between the chimney pipe and combustible structures - floors, walls, rafter system - must be at least 250 mm;
• A fire distance must be maintained between the upper ceiling of the stove and the ceiling. For metal stoves it is at least 1.5 meters, for brick stoves with a two-row ceiling - 0.5 meters, with a three-row ceiling - 0.25 meters, provided that the ceiling above the stove is finished with non-combustible materials;
• In places where a brick chimney passes through the ceiling, fluffing is performed - thickening the pipe. The thickness of the fluff is 1-1.5 bricks.

Plastering a brick pipe

A brick pipe does not heat up much from the outside, so it is necessary to insulate it rather in order to improve operating conditions and extend its service life. The most affordable way to insulate a brick chimney is plastering with cement mortar or a mortar based on cement and lime. Instead of sand, you can add sifted slag chips to it.

Solution composition:

• 1 bag of cement (25 kg);
• 2 buckets of slaked lime;
• 10 buckets of sand or a mixture of sand and slag chips;
• 5 buckets of water.

1. To prepare the solution, mix 3.5-4 buckets of water with a bag of cement and 2 buckets of slaked lime - fluff. After thorough mixing, sand and slag chips are added in parts, as well as the remaining amount of water. The resulting composition should be used within 5 hours in cool weather, and 1-2 hours before in hot weather, so it can be prepared in parts.
2. If there are large unevennesses in the pipe, the layer of plaster turns out to be quite thick, so it is recommended to first seal all the cracks and differences with the specified solution, and then cover the pipe with reinforcing mesh.
3. Plastering is carried out in two layers. For the first layer, the solution is diluted somewhat stronger, to a creamy state, and applied using the spray method: take a certain amount of solution on a trowel or spatula and throw it onto a dust-free and slightly moistened brick surface. The first layer is not leveled.
4. For the second layer, a thicker solution is required. It is applied with a trowel and rubbed to a smooth surface. It is necessary to plaster the entire pipe from floor to ceiling or roof.

Covering brick pipes with asbestos-cement sheets

This method is 2-2.5 times superior to plastering in terms of heat saving and consists of gluing asbestos-cement slabs on a cement-lime mortar to the outer walls of the pipe.

1. Using the above technology, a plastering solution is prepared.
2. The pipe is reinforced with mesh and the first layer of solution is sprayed. Dry it.
3. Asbestos-cement sheets are cut to fit the pipe. Apply a second layer of solution to asbestos cement sheets and glue them to the surface of the chimney.

The disadvantages of this method include the low environmental friendliness of asbestos - it emits carcinogens, so this method of insulation cannot be used in living rooms. In a non-residential attic, thermal insulation of the chimney with asbestos will reduce the temperature difference between the inside and outside of the chimney and will significantly reduce the formation of condensation, as well as improve its fire protection.

In addition, a brick pipe can be covered with sheet iron using a layer of insulation. You can learn how to do this from the video.

Video - sheathing a pipe with sheet iron

Metal Single Pipe Insulation

The most dangerous type of chimney in terms of fire safety is a metal pipe that is not protected by a heat insulator. The distance from such pipes to wooden and plastic structures should not be less than 0.6 meters. But even maintaining this distance will not protect you from burns if accidentally touched, so it is better to insulate the pipe without waiting for problems.

Uninsulated metal pipe is a common cause of fires

The easiest way to insulate a single pipe is to wrap it in a layer of non-flammable insulation, such as basalt wool, and protect it on top with metal or plaster. The melting point of this material approaches 1000 degrees, which is significantly higher than the smoke temperature.

1. Mats of basalt wool with a thickness of at least 5 cm are wrapped around the pipe with an overlap and fasten it by wrapping it on top with steel wire.
2. The heat-insulated pipe is wrapped with reinforcing mesh, secured, and plastered using the technology described above in two layers with a cement-lime composition.
3. The plaster can be replaced with thin sheet iron, rolled along the diameter of the insulated pipe and riveted at the junction of the edges.

Insulation of passages through floors and roofs

The most critical areas of chimney insulation are passages through the ceilings, so special attention is paid to them. It is necessary to insulate the passages when using any chimney: sandwich pipes, brick pipes, or insulated metal ones.

Passages are carried out in compliance with the following conditions:

• Holes for the passage of pipes are made in the ceilings and roofs in such a way that there is a distance of at least 25-35 cm from its edges to the walls of the pipe.
• The edges of the hole are treated with asbestos-cement or metal sheets, and a box is arranged for thermal insulation.
• The space around the pipe is filled with stone or basalt wool without the formation of voids or gaps.
• Wooden structures located in close proximity to the chimney passages are treated with fire retardant compounds.

Insulation of passages through ceilings with basalt wool

Having figured out how to insulate a chimney pipe, you can easily complete this work, but remember that even an insulated chimney pipe requires proper operation: clean soot at least three times a year, remove ash from the furnace in a timely manner, and do not burn things not intended for use in it. materials and objects for the firebox (garbage). All this is the key to a long and safe chimney service.

Chimneys are easily exposed to various negative influences. This could be changes in temperature conditions or aggressive weather conditions. During the combustion process, condensate formed in the chimney pipe destroys it. And the formation of condensate is caused by the temperature difference between the operating pipe and the air. Various impurities formed in the chimney pipe lead to its destruction. To avoid such moments, it is necessary to insulate the chimney using lining. How to line a chimney with corrugated sheeting or other material, which option is cheaper and which is more reliable, what is the chimney lining made of?

Corrugated sheeting is a covering that can be used in the construction of buildings.

You will find answers to all these questions by reading the article to the end.

Selection of facing material

The chimney, or rather the part of it protruding above the roof, is most exposed to negative environmental influences. Another important point is the aesthetic side of the chimney, since this element is quite striking, and, in addition to technical conditions, must match the style and color scheme of your home. Simply put, the chimney should not spoil the appearance of the roof, but contribute to its decoration.

The lining of the protruding part of the chimney involves the use of various materials. The main thing is that they are resistant to precipitation, wind, low temperatures, ultraviolet radiation and temperature changes. It meets almost all of these qualities. Not the last factor when choosing is the appearance and color scheme of the material intended for cladding work. The chimney should look harmonious with the roof covering and match the style of the entire house. The chimney, that is, its lining, is completed before the roofing material is laid. In this case, you will not damage the roof and avoid contamination of the roof surface.

Chimney. Cladding methods

Lining a chimney pipe, or rather, its methods, is quite diverse. The choice depends on what material you have chosen for the chimney installation.

P-20 corrugated sheeting is the most popular and universal profile.

A fairly practical way is to use clinker bricks or tiles. Dirt will not be noticeable on a chimney pipe lined with such material. Another advantage of its use is its absolute combination with any roofing covering. The positive properties of clinker bricks include strength, resistance to temperature changes and weather conditions. Only solid clinker bricks are used, laid on a special clinker mortar.

Another method by which you can veneer a chimney is plaster. Its advantages include a fairly low price, lightness, durability and versatility. Plastering pipes is done in the same way as plastering facade walls. The durability and wear resistance of such cladding can be increased by applying silicone paint over the plaster.

Another option is to line the chimney using a ready-made structure. It is produced in a factory and is part of a chimney pipe equipped with a steel channel. Such structures can be faced with brick or other material, painted, plastered or reinforced with mesh (for subsequent plastering). The appearance of such structures is quite impressive. The cladding is made of the same material as the roof covering. These can be cement-fiber boards, profile sheets (cladding with corrugated sheets), slate, and so on. All these materials look quite aesthetically pleasing and are practical in their use.

Facing with corrugated sheets. Advantages of using a profile sheet

The profile sheet is considered one of the most popular in modern construction.

Another name for it is corrugated sheeting. The areas of application of profile sheets are quite diverse. The most popular areas are the construction of walls, the manufacture of fencing, roofing and, of course, use as a cladding material. The advantages of profile flooring include the following qualities:

• quick and easy installation;
• easy maintenance;
• durability;
• low cost;
• light weight;
• resistance to high temperatures.

There are a large number of varieties of profile sheets. Here is a small list of the main types:

Installation of the profiled sheet is carried out in one direction: from corner to corner.

• combined type profile sheet (used in various designs);
• galvanized profile sheet (used as roofing material);
• painted profile sheet (for covering roofs and other structures);
• aluminum profile sheet (has durability and high resistance to humid environments);
• support-type profile sheet (has increased strength properties and can withstand heavy weight);
• roofing profile sheet (used for roofing and also as a facing material);
• facing-type profile sheet (to protect various structures from negative influences, including the chimney).

Profile sheets in modern construction are a fairly popular material for cladding. It is a steel sheet of a profile nature, made from galvanized steel (galvanized profile sheet) or from steel with a polymer coating.

Cladding with corrugated sheets gives the structure a finished look. Such qualities of the profile sheet as non-flammability, environmental friendliness, reliability, durability, resistance to mechanical loads make it indispensable when lining a chimney.

The nuances of performing installation work with corrugated sheets

Advantages of corrugated sheeting: ease of installation, durability, quality of production.

Before carrying out installation work with corrugated sheeting, it is necessary to comply with its storage conditions. The room in which the profile sheet is stored must be dry and well ventilated. Corrugated sheets must be stored in a horizontal position on a plane. If it is impossible to store it indoors, the profile sheet is covered with a film that has waterproof properties, since moisture ingress is undesirable.

To cut a profile sheet, you will need a circular saw in which a special blade is fixed, or an electric jigsaw. It is considered undesirable to use a grinder for, since heating damages the sheet coating (polymer or zinc). Before installing profile sheets, it is necessary to study their geometry.

If there are any errors, they will need to be corrected during the installation process using additional components. Parts of sheets along the bottom edge should form a single line. To protect your hands, you will also need construction gloves or mittens. When installing corrugated sheets, the strength of the structure being manufactured is very important, since strong gusts of wind can tear off the cladding elements. Self-tapping screws are used to connect profile sheets to each other. Precision when joining sheets is a guarantee of an aesthetic appearance.

Knowing the features and nuances of the upcoming installation, you will avoid unforeseen situations during work. Good luck with your construction!

30593 0 21

Internal and external finishing of the chimney pipe: a set of simple options for independent implementation

In a living room, the presence of a stove or fireplace is a blessing, but the appearance of the chimney does not always correspond to the interior. If this is your case, then from this article you will learn how and with what to finish the pipe in the house. And not only indoors, but also outside, so that the entire structure meets modern architectural trends.

What to rely on when developing a project

Appearance and original design are of course important, but before you finish a pipe in the house, you should think about safety. I think you can guess the serious consequences yourself.

So, in order not to make mistakes and not burn down the house, first it would be a good idea to familiarize yourself with the standards. In this case should be guided by SNiP 41-01-2003, it is this instruction that regulates the installation and operation of heating, ventilation and air conditioning. The document is voluminous, so I have written down the main points for you.

• If flammable thermal insulation and finishing materials are selected for the chimney, then their spontaneous combustion temperature should be at least 20ºC higher than the maximum possible temperature of the pipe. The same rule applies to all structures and objects surrounding the chimney within a radius of half a meter;
• Metal products capable of corroding must have an appropriate coating that protects the surface from corrosion;
• The walls of brick chimneys made of heat-resistant bricks should not be thinner than 120 mm. If we are talking about heat-resistant concrete, then the wall thickness of such pipes starts from 60 mm;
• The use of metal and asbestos-cement structures for chimney installation is allowed only if there is a factory quality certificate that allows the use of products at high temperatures;

The use of asbestos-cement and thin-walled stainless steel pipes in furnaces burning coal or coke is strictly prohibited. These materials are not able to withstand the temperature of the gases in such a chimney.

• The mouth of the chimney (the highest point on the roof) must be equipped with an umbrella, deflector or other protective structure that prevents debris and precipitation from entering the chimney. At the same time, protective structures should not interfere with the exit of flue gases;
• The distance from brick and heat-insulated chimneys to roof rafters and other wooden structures should not be less than 130 mm. If a heat-resistant ceramic pipe without thermal insulation is installed, then the safe distance increases to 250 mm.

When you choose both the chimney itself and the finish for the surface of the chimney, inside or outside, you should consider the type of fuel your boiler or stove will run on. The temperature of the flue gases directly depends on this.

Options for interior finishing of chimneys

Often, all capital stoves, fireplaces and boilers are installed on the ground floor, and sometimes even in the basement of the building. Accordingly, the chimney will pass through 3 levels and we will have to finish each level:

1. The sector from the stove to the interfloor ceiling or attic;
2. Attic or second floor area;
3. Transition through the roof and part of the structure located on the roof.

Finishing the chimney above the stove

In this case, it all depends on what kind of heating unit you are dealing with. Brick stoves and fireplaces usually have the same brick chimney. Such structures rarely need additional decoration, since the brick itself already looks good.

But if second-rate brick was used to build the chimney or the finishing material does not suit your chosen design at all, then you have to choose between hanging heat-resistant panels, laying tiles and plaster.

It is not difficult to guess that the highest temperature of the flue gases is at the exit from the furnace. Therefore, I do not recommend installing thermal insulation and arranging some exotic decor on top of it. After all, you built a stove to keep it warm, but if you “wrap” it in thermal insulation, then all the heat will fly away.

The first tile you come across may not be suitable for cladding. The glaze on regular tiles will simply crack due to temperature. Since ancient times, in Rus', so-called tiles were used to decorate stoves. Without going into the intricacies of technology, tiles are the same tiles, only heat-resistant.

But the price of highly artistic, beautiful tiles is, to put it mildly, frightening. A more affordable option would be clinker tile cladding. The range of clinker in stores is huge. Plus, all such material is heat-resistant.

In this case, we are interested in double-fired tiles. It is porous, which means it will not heat up as much. You can recognize it by its markings - the number 2 will appear on the tongue of the flame.

I won’t talk for a long time about the technology of laying tiles, since it is the same everywhere. Primer for preparing a brick pipe, heat-resistant tile adhesive and grout are available in special departments.

First, the tiles will need to be soaked in water for 15 minutes. While it is wet, you dilute the tile adhesive according to the instructions on the package. Next, take a comb spatula and apply glue to the tile and the base, after which you glue the tile to the base.

The gaps between the tiles are maintained with plastic crosses. The next day, when the glue has set, you will need to pull out the plastic crosses and fill the gaps with grout. Usually the grout hardens within 2-3 days, after which you can heat the oven.

This is a general technology, so be sure to read the instructions on all packages; the preparation time for the compositions may vary greatly.

Another worthy finishing option is the use of hanging porcelain tile panels. The material is beautiful and durable, but expensive. Porcelain tiles have an ideal glossy surface, so many people unknowingly confuse these slabs with marble.

To hang such slabs you will have to attach a metal frame to the structure. It is better to take special profiles for the frame, but if you do not find them, then install them the same as for drywall. To attach the frame to the pipe, you can use self-expanding metal anchors or special heat-resistant dowels.

The slabs are hung on special hooks. The porcelain tile itself can be whatever you like. This material is fired at a temperature of 1400ºC, so the chimney pipe certainly will not harm it.

When you install any hanging material on high-temperature surfaces, the panels should not be rigidly fastened. When heated, almost all materials expand and you need to leave a small damping gap, at least 3 - 4 mm.

Round ceramic or metal chimneys are also finished using a frame method. That is, first you install a frame around the pipe, and then you decorate the frame.

In addition to the above-mentioned metal frame made of UD and CD profiles, a ceramic version is available for round chimneys. In this case, such ceramic products are first wrapped in a heat-insulating cocoon, and then the ceramic sections are mounted. Such a pipe often no longer requires additional finishing.

Finishing the chimney on the second floor or in an adjacent room

It was not for nothing that I mentioned the adjacent room. Now many city residents, without waiting for mercy from utility services, install AGVs in their apartments. Naturally, everything is installed there by specialists, and the pipe is routed horizontally through the wall to the street.

Sometimes such a chimney passes through a loggia or balcony. And I am often asked how to finish a balcony with a pipe from a heating boiler, and what materials can be used for this.

So, the balcony can be decorated with any materials. There is no fire danger in this case. The fact is that for AGV and some other models of gas boilers, a coaxial chimney pipe is used.

This pipe has a double-circuit design:

1. Exhaust gases exit through the internal circuit to the street;
2. And through the external circuit, air enters the closed combustion chamber.

Thus, these units use air taken from the street to operate. For those who do not understand, I have placed a diagram below.

Accordingly, when such a coaxial pipe passes through a balcony or loggia, you can decorate it however you like. Since its outer part is metal and, more importantly, the top of this pipe is actually cold.

Usually coaxial pipes are simply painted. Sometimes a wooden or metal frame is built around them and this frame is already sheathed with some kind of interior finishing, for example, clapboard or plastic panels.

Finishing of the chimney on the second floor or in the attic is done only with the use of thermal insulation. In the first case, thermal insulation is needed so that you or someone in your household does not get burned on a hot chimney.

As for the unheated attic floor, if you do not insulate the chimney in this sector, condensation will settle on its inside. As a result, it will begin to constantly become overgrown with soot and actively deteriorate.

On a heated second floor without insulation, you can only leave a powerful brick pipe. Flue gases in this sector are no longer so hot. Plus, brickwork will be a good protection against overheating and it is impossible to get seriously burned on it. Typically, such pipes are simply tiled or plastered.

The new-fashioned metal sandwich pipe does not need finishing at all. This design is initially equipped with powerful thermal insulation, and its body is made of perfectly polished stainless steel.

Only non-insulated ceramic and metal chimneys require mandatory finishing on the second floor. Brick and insulated sandwich pipes can be decorated as desired.

Usually, an open pipe on the second floor is enclosed in a cocoon of dense basalt wool, which covers it over the entire area, right up to the pipe itself. Then the frame is constructed and the finishing is installed on it. Of course, this is much easier and faster.

But one of my friends did it more wisely. His method provides for both maximum heat transfer from a hot pipe and protection of people from accidental burns. Plus this design looks quite attractive.

A ceramic pipe was initially installed for the chimney; the design is durable and reliable, but it gets very hot. I didn’t want to lose precious heat on the second floor, so the man built a supporting frame of metal profiles around the pipe.

The frame itself was made square and covered from the inside with high-density cotton basalt slabs, 50 mm thick. A gap of 50 mm was left between the thermal insulation and the chimney. But the heat-insulating cocoon was not made solid, but with two ventilation windows.

One window was made at floor level, and the second almost at ceiling level. Both above and below, ventilation gaps ran horizontally along the entire perimeter of the structure.

Everyone knows that warm air rises and to prevent the ceiling from burning from the rising currents, a layer of basalt wool was glued onto it and a stainless steel plate was fixed on top of it.

The outside of the metal frame was covered with fire-resistant plasterboard (GKLO) and puttied over the entire surface. At the same time, a person installed a decorative mesh on the upper and lower ventilation gaps along the entire perimeter of the plasterboard frame.

There was an idea to additionally install small fans on the ventilation gaps, but after a month of operation we realized that everything works well without them.

At floor level, cool air is drawn into the lower ventilation gap. It heats up quickly from the chimney and exits through the top ventilation. The stove itself is built with high quality, so both floors are evenly heated in half an hour.

Fire-resistant drywall can be decorated with anything. After puttying, the easiest way is to cover the box with wallpaper or apply decorative plaster.

If desired, the sheets can be covered with tiles; in this case, any will do, since thermal insulation is installed inside. Plus, the plasterboard box itself can be made with niches and this will already be an original design.

Installation of a chimney on the roof

Arranging a chimney on the roof and passing through the roof is perhaps the most difficult and important stage. If a pipe inside a building without finishing simply spoils the interior, and even if you are careless, you can get burned on it, then external finishing is, first of all, protecting the chimney from destruction and only then a beautiful decor.

Pipe passage through the roof

The easiest way is to arrange the passage of a round insulated sandwich pipe through the roof. Here you can do without completely disassembling the roofing pie.

• I start this installation from the inside of the roof. If you are dealing with an equipped roof, then first the decorative covering on the ceiling is dismantled. There you will most likely find a vapor barrier membrane, followed by a layer of insulation and a windproof film. All this will need to be cut to the size of your pipe;

When installing stoves, chimneys, boilers and other high-temperature equipment, all this equipment can only be insulated with basalt mineral wool. Its melting point starts at 900ºС, glass wool melts already at 450ºС. and insulation materials such as polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam and penoizol are strictly prohibited; they emit carcinogens already at 70ºC.

• It is more convenient to cut a hole for a round pipe in the roofing while on the roof. But in order not to make a mistake, I drill several holes from below along the contour of the future pipe;
• Now the bottom flange ring is fastened with self-tapping screws onto the sheathing, on top of the vapor barrier;

• Further work will be carried out on the roof. Using the previously made designations, a hole is cut for the pipe, after which you can immediately install the sandwich pipe;
• To seal the joint between a round chimney and the roof covering, the industry uses special corrugated flanges made of soft polymer; they can withstand temperatures up to 270ºC.

The corrugation in them is made in the form of a cone. You only need to cut it in the right place so that the hole on the soft flange is slightly less than the diameter of the pipe;

• Next, lubricate the flange with soap and pull it tightly on top of the pipe. The base of the flange is made of flexible metal, usually aluminum or copper. You will need to tap this metal ring with a rubber hammer so that it takes the shape of the roof;
• At the final stage, lubricate the joint with sealant and screw the curved flange to the roof with self-tapping screws.

Sometimes the pipes from the boiler and fireplace are discharged in one place, then the exit is arranged in a package, and this package is immediately decorated. The rectangular outer frame for such a package is most often made of wood. In this case, the wood is impregnated with fire retardants, although no one forbids assembling it from metal profiles.

The inside of the frame is sheathed with basalt thermal insulation. And for external cladding there are several options, I will talk about them a little later.

The passage through the roof of a brick pipe and a rectangular frame with a package of pipes is carried out in almost the same way. But it’s a little more difficult to seal a brick chimney, so I’ll tell you about it.

It is better to seal the brick pipe before installing the roofing. If such a coating is already in place, then this sector will have to be opened, otherwise a high-quality finish will not work.

To prevent water from leaking, you will need to install 2 aprons. The lower apron is considered the main one and is mounted under the roofing material on the sheathing. The top apron is installed on top of the roofing and is more responsible for the decor.

We start naturally with the lower apron. In most cases, it is made from galvanized sheet with a thickness of 0.5 - 0.7 mm. The entire structure consists of 4 sectors, corresponding to the number of planes of the pipe.

The lower part of the apron is placed on the roof sheathing; the width of this sector is about 300 mm. Then the sheet bends and rises along the pipe, here the width is 150 - 200 mm.

Assembling the lower apron from segments.

This is sufficient for wooden and metal frames. When it comes to brick pipes, the upper edge of the apron is bent towards the pipe at 90º by about another 10 mm.

• First, all parts of the apron are applied to the installation site and a line is marked along the perimeter of the pipe;

• Then, along this line, a groove with a depth of about 10 - 15 mm is cut with a grinder. This groove is immediately cleaned and washed with water;
• Now we fill the groove with heat-resistant sealant and immediately, before it hardens, install all 4 parts of the apron in their place. In this case, the upper bend on the apron goes into the groove filled with sealant;
• Ideally, all sectors of the apron should be soldered. But in practice, craftsmen usually join the planes overlapping, coat the joints with sealant and screw them to the base with self-tapping screws and press washers;
• There is one more important point: below the pipe along the roof slope, you will need to install a so-called tie - a wide galvanized sheet that is placed under the lower apron and lowered to the edge of the roof or into the nearest valley. The sheet is taken 50 cm wider than the pipe on each side; this is a kind of insurance in case of a roof leak near the pipe.

This corrugation is screwed to the pipe trim using self-tapping screws and press washers. And it bends around the roof using a rubber hammer. Sometimes flashings are made from rigid galvanized sheet, but they are more difficult to seal.

Options for lining the chimney on the roof

As I already said, the chimney sandwich pipe does not require any finishing. There you will only need to install a protective top deflector.

If you are arranging a wooden or metal frame for the pipe package, then there are 3 cladding options for it:

1. The cheapest and easiest way is to sheathe a wooden frame with a package of pipes with corrugated sheets. Such sheets are simply simply attached to self-tapping screws with a press washer. Special fittings are produced for arranging the corners and top edge. Owners who have chosen metal tiles for their roofing often finish their chimneys with it, so the technology here is the same as when finishing with corrugated sheets;
2. If there is a desire to plaster the frame under the chimney, then this frame is sheathed on top with asbestos-cement slabs and they are already plastered;
3. I've even seen pipes lined with fiber cement siding. It looks beautiful, but fiber cement siding is heavy and needs an appropriate frame for it. Therefore, it is better to entrust such finishing to a professional.

Don't even think about lining your chimney with vinyl siding. Remember that you are dealing with a hot surface and the plastic may simply melt.

Lining a brick pipe with a corrugated sheet is even easier than a frame structure. You will need to attach several wooden blocks or metal profiles to it and screw the cladding on. By the way, it is advisable to lay basalt wool slabs between the lathing strips; outdoor temperature changes are especially harmful to structures.

In addition to facing with corrugated sheets, old brick pipes that have lost their appearance can be finished in two more ways: clinker tiles and plaster. In both cases the technology is approximately similar.

Naturally, the surface will first need to be cleaned and primed. Since we are dealing with constant temperature changes, the pipe will need to be reinforced. In this case, it is better to choose galvanized metal mesh for reinforcement. We fasten the mesh with anchors or heat-resistant dowels.

For the rough layer, I mix a cement-sand mortar, only it is better to take expanded clay rather than ordinary sand. Expanded clay inclusions will act as insulation.

You will need to try to level the rough layer well, and then think about what you can do best. You can lay tiles or apply a layer of finishing plaster. By the way, instead of clinker tiles, the chimney can be lined with natural stone, the technology is the same, only without plastic crosses.

Conclusion

As you can see, finishing a chimney in a private house is quite within the power of a home craftsman; there is plenty to choose from, if only there is a desire. In the photos and videos in this article I have selected additional material on the arrangement and finishing of chimneys. If you still have questions after watching, write them in the comments and we’ll talk.

November 21, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!