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Do-it-yourself sewerage in a private house: diagram and rules for the location of the main structural elements. Design and installation of sewerage systems Make a sewerage project

A separate section of engineering communications design is sewer system planning. Owners of cottages and country houses often have to independently draw up diagrams and install equipment, so knowing the nuances of organizing work is simply necessary.

The efficiency of the system largely depends on whether the sewerage installation in a private house is done correctly - the internal pipe system and the equipment connected to them. For competent design, it is important to take into account everything: from the choice of components to the material used to manufacture individual elements. And we will tell you how to do it correctly.

Unlike electricity, gas, and water supply systems, which are installed in accordance with documentation certified by certain authorities, sewerage systems on your own land plot and in your house are allowed to be installed without permits.

However, one cannot do without a project, as it will protect against errors associated with violation of generally accepted requirements.

For example, one of the common violations is failure to respect the boundaries of the sanitary zone when installing a drainage pit. The supply and drain systems must not come into contact with each other.

Option for arranging communications in a private one-story house - external water supply and sewerage systems are located on opposite sides of the building

The installation of internal wiring is often associated with errors in the organization of ventilation, incorrect choice of pipe diameter or angle of inclination.

The construction of an axonometric diagram is usually carried out by specialists. They also carry out hydraulic calculations of the internal network and the highway located on the outside of the building. Now there is a more interesting option - creating a sewer model in 3D format.

3D modeling programs allow you to create an accurate and complete project that simplifies the selection of pipes, fittings, fasteners, and installation methods as much as possible.

They turn to specialists for a project when they want to reduce risks. But there is another option - study sanitary and technical standards, familiarize yourself with internal wiring diagrams, learn to understand the quality of plumbing equipment and draw up a project yourself.

Placement of important system components

The peculiarity of an autonomous sewerage system is that the principles of its arrangement depend on each component in the overall system.

For example, the criterion for choosing a wastewater storage tank is not only the number of people living in the cottage, but also the number of connected sources for draining technical and household water - from the house, garage, bathhouse, summer kitchen.

Work planning and scheme selection

The installation of sewer pipes is usually carried out together with the installation of a water supply system; accordingly, it is better to design these two systems together.

If we summarize all the documents that make up the project and try to act according to the rules, we will get the following list:

  1. General data - description and conditions for installation of water supply and sanitation systems based on regulatory documents.
  2. Explication of the premises (explanation of the diagram) indicating wet areas and the method of waterproofing them.
  3. Calculation of water consumption and wastewater disposal volumes taking into account standards.
  4. Floor plan for the location of the water supply system and axonometric diagram.
  5. Floor plan for sewerage location.
  6. Specification - a listing of all components with an indication of quantity or footage.

You can refuse to install additional ventilation equipment, but provided that the private house is no higher than 2 floors and the load on the sewer network is minimal.

If many people live in the building, the number of bathrooms is more than 2, and the wastewater is discharged to a treatment facility, then the installation of a waste pipe is required. Thanks to it, the atmosphere in the house will be healthy, and the water from the water seals will not disappear anywhere due to the pressure difference in the network.

Features of wiring in a multi-storey building

The number of risers does not increase due to the presence of the 2nd or 3rd floors, but the connection diagram becomes more complicated, since branches are present on all floors. For multi-storey buildings there is a “code” set out in SNiP documents.

While planning the construction of a private house, it is necessary to complete a design for the wiring and equipment of external and internal sewage systems. What needs to be taken into account when designing a system, what equipment such a project should include and how to perform installation are questions that we will try to answer in this article.

It is difficult to imagine the construction of a modern private house without sewerage equipment. Even in old houses, the level of comfort can be increased by carrying out the appropriate work.

Before starting the development of the project, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the MDS Manual 40-2.2000. This is an extremely useful collection on the development of autonomous utility networks for a private house with a large volume of requirements, definitions, mandatory and recommended system parameters.

The following may also be useful:

  1. GOST 25150-82 - terms.
  2. SNiP 2.04.01-85 - for the development of internal sewerage.
  3. SNiP 2.04.03-85 - for the development of external sewerage.
  4. SP 31-106-2002, r.5 - sewerage system for single-family houses.

In the text of these documents, you can find and clarify controversial or questionable issues that arise during the design.

Collection and analysis of initial data for design

Designing sewer networks requires some preparation, which consists of drawing up technical specifications, even if the work is carried out independently. This way you won’t have to redo the work several times.

List of initial data to be prepared:

  1. System type: autonomous or connected. To tap into a centralized sewer, you will need documents for the house and permission to make the tap.
  2. With an autonomous system, you need to decide on the disposal method (biological station, septic tank, sealed storage tank, cesspool).
  3. Geological data: soil freezing depth, aquifer depth, location of reservoirs, location and depth of a well or borehole (with autonomous water supply), soil data.
  4. Precipitation data (when designing storm sewers).
  5. Based on the recommendations of SNiP, calculate the peak load, depending on the number of people living and plumbing equipment. If the residence in the house is seasonal, this is also taken into account in the calculations.
  6. Draw up a floor plan indicating drainage points from bathtubs, showers, washbasins, sinks, toilets, bidets, washing machines and dishwashers.

Design of internal sewerage

We begin the design with the location of plumbing equipment. To reduce the length of sewer pipes, as well as to simplify ventilation of the system, it is recommended to place them as close to each other as possible, and when placed on different floors, one above the other. Thus, the riser is a vertical section of the drainage system; there will be only one in the house. If the house has a large area or if the sewage system is installed in an existing building, it is possible to install two or more risers.

In-house sewage system

All drains from individual points are cut into the riser with pipes with a diameter and slope recommended by SNiP. These recommendations make it possible not to perform hydraulic calculations in most cases. The specified slope value is the minimum. The maximum value is 15 cm/m (except for areas shorter than 1.5 m - more is possible there).

Table. Required slopes and diameters of drainage pipes

Device Slope Distance between central drain and siphon without ventilation, cm Pipe diameter, cm
Bath 1:3 100—130 40
Shower 1:48 150—170 40
Toilet 1:20 up to 600 100
Sink 1:12 0—80 40
Bidet 1:20 70—100 30—40
Washing 1:36 130—150 30—40
Bath, sink, shower (combined drain) 1:48 170—230 50
Central riser 100
Branches from the riser 65—75

Table. Slope values ​​depending on pipe diameter

Pipes are routed using shaped connections. In this case, it is desirable that the bends consist not of one elbow at an angle of 90°, but of two at 45° (or 3 at 30°). This reduces local hydraulic resistance and reduces the likelihood of clogging.

Execution of bends: 1 - elbows 30°; 2 — fastening clamps; 3 - overlap; 4 - oblique tee or revision

The upper part of the sewer riser (waste pipe) is raised above the roof level by at least 50 cm and is open for ventilation and compensation for pressure drops during drains from one or more points. Aeration valves are installed on dead-end risers that do not go onto the roof. The lower part of the riser descends below the floor of the first floor, preferably into the basement, and is led out of the house by a pipe of the same or larger diameter.

Ventilation device for the sewer system: 1 - deflector; 2 - aeration valve; 3 — riser with a diameter of 110 mm; 4 — riser with a diameter of 75 mm

The operating principle of the aeration valve: A - the valve is closed; B - valve open

Appearance of the aeration valve

Rules for designing internal sewerage

For the normal functioning of the system, you must strictly adhere to some rules for the design and installation of sewage systems:

  1. The location of the toilet should be as close as possible to the riser (no further than 1 m). The drain from it must be individual; connecting a drain from another source is unacceptable. All other plumbing fixtures on the floor that drain water into the same riser must be installed above the toilet drain insertion.
  2. The diameter of the drain pipes cannot be less than the diameter of the equipment drain hole.
  3. The maximum permissible length of a conventionally horizontal section should not exceed 10 m (ideally, no more than 3 m). For large distances, a second riser is organized. The longer the horizontal section, the larger the diameter of the sewer pipe should be, at least: over 3 m - Ø 70 mm, over 5 m - Ø 100 mm.
  4. In all cases, it is necessary to maintain the recommended slope.
  5. On long sections of pipes, both horizontal and vertical, it is necessary to install inspections for cleaning in case of possible blockage.

Design of external sewerage

The main issue when designing an external sewer system is the choice of waste disposal method.

Selecting a sewage disposal system

If it is not possible to connect to a centralized highway, choose one of the options.

cesspool

It is not intended for the disposal of large volumes of liquid waste from a bathtub, shower, etc. and is most often equipped only for draining drains from a toilet (powder closet). If, in this case, the outlet of the sewer pipe outside the house may be below the level of filling the pit (for example, during rainy periods, melting snow, a water supply accident), then a check valve must be installed on the pipe.

Check valve at the sewer outlet

Sealed storage

It is a purchased or self-assembled container into which all wastewater is drained: from the toilet, from the bathtub, and from the washing machine. Periodically requires emptying, for which a sewer truck is ordered. The most budget option in terms of initial expenses, but requires regular operating costs.

Sealed storage tank for sewerage

The storage tank must be equipped with a hatch for inspection and pumping out of sewage.

Septic tank

It is a sealed tank consisting of one, two or three compartments (sections). On one side there is a pipe for connection to a pipe from the internal sewerage system of the house, on the other there is a pipe for purified (clarified) water.

According to SNiP, the type of septic tank is accepted:

  • single-section, with a volume of at least 3 m 3 - up to 1 m 3 / day;
  • single-section, with a volume of at least 15 m 3 - up to 5 m 3 / day;
  • two-section, with a volume of at least 25 m 3 - up to 10 m 3 / day;
  • three-section, with a volume 2.5 times greater than the daily flow rate - more than 10 m 3 / day.

Three-section septic tank. Zone A - primary settling tank; zone B - anaerobic reactor; zone C - final clarifier

Due to anaerobic bacteria (bioenzymes that live and work in the absence or lack of oxygen), organic matter goes through several stages of fermentation, as a result of which it decomposes into sludge, gaseous substances removed into the atmosphere, and relatively clean water, the final purification of which occurs outside the septic tank in the soil . With a correctly selected septic tank, after some time in the tank, a biological equilibrium is established that does not require the addition of bioenzymes.

Soil post-treatment, in the event of a sanitary ban on draining wastewater directly after the septic tank, should consist of installing perforated drainage pipes, laid with a slope from the septic tank on a layer of crushed stone and covered with sand, which act as natural filters. At the end of the channel, you need to install a ventilation pipe, raising it above the soil level no lower than 70 cm.

Scheme of soil purification: A - absorbent trench for sandy loam and sand; B - filter trench for clays and loams; 1 - crushed stone; 2 - final backfill; 3 - absorbent pipes; 4—filtration sand; 5 - drainage pipes

For sandy loams and sands, it is possible to construct a filter well made of brick or concrete rings, the bottom of which is covered with a layer of crushed stone about 1 m deep. Groundwater should not be closer than 0.5 m from the lower boundary of the crushed stone. The larger the diameter of the well, the longer it will last. Approximately the cross-sectional area should be:

  • 3.0 m 2 /1 person - with sandy loam;
  • 1.5 m 2 / 1 person - with sand.

Filter well after a three-section septic tank : 1 - backfill; 2 - concrete pad; 3 - septic tank; 4 - insulation; 5 - brick well; 6 - crushed stone; 7 - sand

If there are large areas, low-lying groundwater and a significant amount of post-treatment, after the septic tank you can install a filter field, which is a layer of crushed stone at a depth of about 1 m, covered with sand.

Filter field after a three-section septic tank: 1 - backfill; 2 - concrete pad; 3 - septic tank; 4 - insulation; 5 - crushed stone; 6 - sand

Biological filtration station

The principle of operation of the station is similar to a septic tank, but aerobic bacteria and microorganisms (requiring oxygen for life) act as a fermentation catalyst. Due to the higher rate of oxidation, the decomposition of organic matter occurs faster, and therefore the capacity of the station can be more compact than that of a septic tank. For the vital activity of bacteria and maintaining a high fermentation rate, air is constantly supplied to the tank through a compressor, which requires constant supply and energy costs. As with a septic tank, long-term downtime of the station negatively affects its operation.

Biological filtration station with aeration tank: A - receiving chamber; B - aeration tank; B - secondary settling tank; G - sludge settling tank; 1 - deflector; 2 - compressors; 3 - airlift for pumping water into the secondary settling tank; 4 - airlift for pumping sludge into the settling tank; 5 — airlift for pumping contaminated water; 6 — overflow hole; 7 — coarse filter; 8, 9 — aerator

Since fats, washing powder and detergents inhibit the activity of both anaerobic and aerobic bacteria, sometimes drains from different sources are separated. Water from the kitchen and from the washing machine is removed to a storage bin for periodic removal; the remaining wastewater is sent to a septic tank or biological treatment station. Other combinations of treatment facilities are possible - in several stages, for a deeper degree of purification.

Allowable distances

All external sewage channels must also be made with the recommended slope. The construction of treatment facilities must take into account the location of water intake points, utility and residential buildings, perennial plantings, and reservoirs on the site and beyond.

Permissible distances are determined on the basis of SNiP and depend on the performance and type of treatment plant.

Allowable distances: 1 - utility yard; 2 - cellar; 3 - well; 4 - septic tank

Sewage installation

After developing the project and purchasing all the necessary materials and equipment, it is time for installation. This work is carried out before finishing begins, so that adjustments can be made during the system startup period and the piping can be hidden.

Internal pipes are routed according to the developed scheme, maintaining the necessary slopes and equipping the risers with a ventilation system. Particular attention is paid to connecting the toilet, avoiding long inlets, turns and any resistance along the drain path into the riser. All drains from sinks, bathtubs, etc. are performed through siphons - this way you will avoid unpleasant odors from the drain holes. If the pipes will be sewn into boxes as a result of finishing work, provide opening inspection hatches.

When working with pipes, they need to be cut and connected: for example, as shown in the figure.

To lay external pipes and install treatment equipment, all excavation work is carried out at the first stage. Precisely maintain the specified distances and slopes, and when organizing soil post-treatment, maintain the thickness and area of ​​the backfill layers. It is difficult and sometimes simply impossible to complete this work alone. For example, to install a heavy septic tank or biological treatment station, install concrete rings, etc., special equipment may be required.

When connecting pipes that can heat up in summer, leave small (up to 10 mm in length) gaps between the pipe and the socket for thermal expansion or elongation as a result of soil pressure. The junction of the sewer pipe with the entrance to the treatment plant must be sealed and strengthened - you can use a strong rope soaked in grease.

In conclusion, watch useful videos with tips on laying and connecting the sewer system of a private house.

Video 1. Laying sewer pipes

Video 2. Joining pipes with different sections

When building a private house, the future owner is often faced with the question of how to properly install the sewer system. After all, outdoor amenities are far from the best way to make your home comfortable.

The ease of use and maintenance in the future largely depends on how correctly the sewerage design is chosen. It is best to install this engineering system, like most others, already at the construction stage. In a finished house, it will be somewhat more difficult to carry out this work, since such work is often associated with breaking the floors, making appropriate changes to the foundation of the house, etc.

The sewerage project must be designed in compliance with all relevant codes and regulations. In private houses, sewage disposal is most often arranged. This is usually due to the fact that in villages and towns centralized communications are a rather rare phenomenon, and therefore there is, in fact, nothing to connect to.

In this case, it should be located at least 5 meters from residential premises. Its volume for private houses is on average 1.5 m3. When installing a sump, it is necessary to provide for access to it by a sewage truck.

In addition, the sewage system of the house must be designed in such a way as to prevent interaction of wastewater with tap water. There are several other important points that need to be taken into account when drawing up the project. Firstly, sewer pipes are not allowed along the ceiling of living rooms. You also cannot lay them in the walls and floors of living rooms, bedrooms and kitchens.

The main elements that any sewerage project includes are the riser and pipes connecting it to objects intended directly for use (sinks, toilets, bathtubs, etc.). There are certain standards according to which the thickness of the riser and pipes in that case if toilets are connected to them, it must be at least 10 cm. In other cases - at least 5 cm. The slope of the outlet pipes towards the drainage water should be no less than 0.033 deg.

Sewage systems are installed using cast iron, steel, and plastic pipes. Previously, cast iron products were mainly used for this purpose. They are quite reliable and durable. Nowadays, plastic pipes can be called more popular. In addition to reliability, they also have a number of advantages - the ability to absorb noise, ease of installation, resistance to the most common chemicals, etc. The only thing that needs to be taken into account is the exposure of polypropylene and polyethylene to UV rays. It is better to install such pipes hidden - inside ceilings and walls.

It is best if the sewerage project is developed by specialists. However, for a small house you can draw up a plan for the drainage system yourself. It is only necessary to take into account all the rules and requirements provided for in this regard. If everything is done carefully and thoughtfully, it will last for many years without creating unnecessary problems for the owner.

The outdoor toilet with a cesspool is gradually becoming a thing of the past. A new house and even a small dacha should delight the owners with comfort and amenities normal for the 21st century. The device is a completely affordable and safe event for construction if you approach the design wisely and use modern materials and technologies. When building a house, the drainage system is laid out at the design stage, along with other utilities, but even in an old house it is quite possible to organize the construction of a bathroom with an urban level of comfort.

All private houses can be divided into two categories - those that can be connected to a centralized city or village sewerage system, and those that cannot. The progress of work and the installation of communications inside the premises will be the same for these cases; the only significant difference will be in the organization of wastewater disposal.

General principles for installing sewerage in a private house

Fundamentally, the sewer system in a private house, as in a city apartment, consists of a vertical riser and pipes of smaller diameter, through which wastewater from a sink, toilet, etc. flows into it by gravity. Then the wastewater flows into horizontally located large-diameter pipes, and from them into a centralized sewerage system or local autonomous treatment facilities.

When planning a sewer system in a house under construction, it is worth placing the kitchen and bathrooms nearby, preferably near the place where the sewer line goes out onto the street. If the house is two-story, then the bathrooms should be located one below the other to reduce the number of risers and simplify the installation of the system and its subsequent maintenance.

In a large house with a large number of bathrooms and a complex sewer system, it is rational to install a sewer pump. A pump may also be needed if the area has absolutely no slope.

When designing a sewer system, the following are also taken into account:

  • landscape of the site - wastewater flows downwards and the septic tank or cesspool should be located at its lowest point,
  • the type of soil, its freezing and the height of groundwater - the depth of external sewerage pipes and the choice of treatment facilities depend on this

Selection of materials

At the present stage, polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride are the best option. They are inexpensive, easy to transport and install, and do not require a welding machine for assembly. In addition to pipes, you will need connecting elements: elbows of various configurations, fittings, tees, inspection hatches. The joints are additionally treated with sealant.

The diameter of the pipes depends on the volume of wastewater and the number of devices connected to the system. In any case, the diameter of the pipe from the plumbing fixture must be equal to or greater than its drain pipe. The diameter of the pipe for the riser should be from 100 mm if a toilet is connected to it, and from 50 mm if there is no toilet. The length of the pipes from the device to the riser should not exceed 3 m, and from the toilet - 1 m. If this distance needs to be increased, then pipes are taken of a larger diameter.

Installation of pipes and plumbing connections

Before assembling the system, it is better to draw it in detail or design it in a computer program. All horizontal pipes of the internal sewerage must slope from the device to the riser at the rate of 2-15 cm per 1 m. If you need to turn the pipe 90 degrees, it is better to do this smoothly, using 2 elbows at 45 or 3 elbows at 30 degrees, for prevent blockages.

The toilet is connected to the vertical riser separately to avoid emptying the siphons in the plumbing when draining the water. Moreover, the remaining devices must be connected above the toilet to prevent waste from entering them.

The sewer risers on each floor in the lower part are equipped with inspection hatches. For sound insulation, they can be wrapped in a layer of mineral wool or covered with a plasterboard box.

Sanitary fixtures are connected to the pipes through a U-shaped siphon, the lower part of which always contains some water. Foul gases from the sewer system cannot pass through this barrier. Some sinks and bathtubs are sold already with a siphon, for others you will need to purchase it additionally; toilets have a built-in siphon.

The riser is connected to external pipes using horizontal pipes of the same or larger diameter located in the basement, basement or under the floor. Such pipes are also equipped with inspection hatches (mandatory at turns). When connecting them, you should avoid right angles and complex turns. If the pipe runs in the ground or in an unheated room, then it must be well insulated. At the exit point from the house, all sewer pipes are collected together and connected to the external sewer system through a hole in the foundation.

Sewer pipes are attached to the walls using clamps. Additional fastenings are installed near the points of insertion into the riser, connections and transitions.

Sewage ventilation

A large amount of abruptly drained water, for example from a toilet cistern, moving through a pipe, creates an area of ​​​​discharged space behind it. If there is no air entering the system, water leaves the siphons of plumbing fixtures along this pipe, and an unpleasant odor appears. For this reason, the sewer system must be equipped with its own ventilation.

For the pipe, the risers are extended to the roof; the upper end is not closed, but is reliably hidden from precipitation and debris. You can do it differently; an aeration valve is installed at the top of the riser, which does not release odors, but conducts air inside, which prevents the air from becoming rarefied in the pipe.

External sewerage

Outside the home, it is also optimal to use polymer pipes. To lay them, a trench is dug to the depth of soil freezing, a sand cushion is poured onto its bottom, and then pipes are laid at a slope of 2-3%. If it is impossible to ensure a sufficiently deep burial, then it is necessary to carefully insulate the pipes.

Inspection hatches are installed at the connection point to the house and near the junction with the central sewerage system or autonomous wastewater treatment plants. It is advisable to install a check valve in the pipe. It will protect the house sewer system from the ingress of sewage from the outside, for example, when the cesspool overflows, and from the penetration of rodents through the pipes.

Treatment plants

An autonomous sewer at the end may have:

  • cesspool,
  • biological treatment station.

Each of these options has its own advantages and disadvantages, but, in general, a cesspool can only be recommended for dachas where people do not live permanently, or for small houses for 1-2 people. A biological treatment station is expensive, but after its installation, maintenance and emptying will have to be resorted to extremely rarely. A septic tank is the best option; you can buy it ready-made or make it yourself.

A properly designed and installed sewer system will make living in your own home even more comfortable.

Today it is impossible to imagine building a house without taking into account water supply and sewerage. But long before the construction of these systems, a water supply and sewerage project for a private house must be completed, according to which installation work will be carried out.

You also need to draw up an estimate for the construction of water supply and sewerage systems. The estimate, of course, will decipher the price of sewerage for a private house, as well as detail all the necessary materials for construction.

It is necessary to carry out design of water supply and sewerage in order to protect the water supply system from the penetration of contaminated sewerage water into it if an emergency situation suddenly arises.

It is a sewerage project - a drawing that schematically depicts all the nuances of construction work.

When developing a sewerage and water supply project, you must adhere to the following conditions:

These are the basic conditions for the construction of water supply and sewerage systems. But you need to know that these systems are life support engineering structures, so it is better to buy high-quality materials for construction.

The most difficult thing is to draw up a project correctly, so it is better to leave such work to a specialist. But you can install the water supply yourself. There are several rules for this:


It is advisable to install internal water supply and sewerage using plastic pipes. Thanks to plastic pipes, installation work will be simplified as much as possible.

Types of sewerage

Nowadays it is difficult to imagine your home without sewerage, and there are several types of sewerage systems. All types of sewers for a private home have their own purpose and perform certain functions.

Types of sewerage:

These are the main types of sewers for a private home, but there are also subtypes of sewers.

Subtypes of sewers:

Outdoor. This sewer system performs the function of removing wastewater from the internal sewer system and moving it to treatment facilities. These include: local treatment facilities, wells, septic tanks, pumping substations.

In turn, external sewerage is divided into:

  1. Pressure. It removes wastewater forcibly using special pumps.
  2. Non-pressure. It removes wastewater by gravity, thanks to different heights of the pipeline.

Internal sewerage. Performs the function of collecting internal wastewater and then moving it to treatment facilities. It collects wastewater using sanitary fixtures and water intake piping systems.

There are many types of sewer systems. But it is worth noting that no matter what system is chosen, it is imperative to adhere to the norms and requirements of SNiP.

If you are confident that you will be able to build a sewer system yourself, then you can use the services of specialized companies. Naturally, it will require significant material costs, but there will be a high-quality sewer system.

Self-installation of sewerage

In this section, you need to figure out how to install a sewer system in a private house so that it serves for a long time and without interruption.

To perform installation work yourself you need:

  • Be able to read and understand designs, diagrams and all kinds of drawings.
  • Have at least a basic understanding of technology and materials.
  • Be able to use instruments that measure slope, level, and also need to be able to use power tools.

If you are optimistic, then everything will work out. The other side of construction is how much it costs to install a sewer system in a private house, and whether it will be possible to save on the construction of systems.

I would like to note that it is better not to skimp on building materials for the sewer system, because this capital construction is carried out once and for many years.

Therefore, it is better to buy high-quality materials so that you do not have to spend money on unscheduled repairs in the near future.

Internal sewerage

Before you start installing a sewer system, you need to figure out how to install a sewer system in a private house, and what principles exist for installing an internal sewer system.

Laying begins with the execution of work on and installation of communications.

Internal sewerage includes the following elements:

  1. Sewer riser.
  2. Sewage pipes.
  3. Toilet.
  4. Wash basin.
  5. Bath.
  6. Drain barrel.
  7. Fan pipe.

Basic principles of internal wiring:


If you adhere to these principles and comply with all the norms and requirements regulated by SNiP, then installing a sewer system in a private house will not be difficult and will serve for a long time and without interruption.

External sewerage

The arrangement of external sewerage consists of laying sewer networks from the premises to the treatment facilities. You can install sewerage in a private house yourself, without requiring outside help.

To install an external sewer system, you need to perform a number of installation works:

  1. First you need to dig a trench the length of the entire area. However, the depth of the trench will directly depend on local climatic conditions.
  2. If the trench depth is no more than 70 cm, then it will be necessary to insulate the pipeline.
  3. It is necessary to maintain the required angle of inclination so that contaminated liquids are discharged into the storage tank by gravity.
  4. The length of external sewerage is calculated for each private house individually.
  5. The pipeline network must be brought to the installation site of storage structures or tanks.

Please note that storage devices should be located as far away from the home as possible. This is necessary to avoid groundwater contamination and flooding of the soil near the house.

Connection to city sewerage

When building a sewer system in a private house, the price for the work is an important element. Of course, if it is possible to connect the sewer system of a private house to the city sewer system, then you should definitely take advantage of it.

To connect to the city sewer you need to do the following:

  • It is necessary to invite an employee of the land committee to create a site plan and mark the house and the route for laying the sewer system on it.
  • Register an application for the development of technical specifications for sewerage equipment.
  • Then enter into an agreement with a design organization that will develop a project for connecting the sewerage system to the city system.
  • Next, approve the project with the architect and the water utility company.
  • Then you need to obtain permission from the architect for the company that will perform installation work to connect the sewerage system to the city system.
  • Equally important is obtaining written consent from neighbors to connect to the central sewer system of a private house, which will pass near neighboring houses.
  • Before starting installation work, you must notify the water utility in writing.
  • And as a final result, the water utility must accept the project and enter into an agreement for wastewater collection services.

This is such a difficult procedure for connecting the sewerage system to the central system. It takes a lot of time and nerves to obtain all the necessary notifications, confirmations and permits, but there are no other options for connecting to the city system yet.

Drainage from the house

When carrying out construction work to install a sewer system, it is important not only to know how, but also how to remove the sewer system from a private house correctly.

In order for the sewerage system to be drained correctly in a private house, the pipeline outlet through the foundation must be planned in advance. If such an exit was not provided for in the foundation, then it will still have to be made. The diameter of the punched opening for the pipeline must be of such a size that the free gap around the pipe is at least 200 mm.

As practice shows, sewerage is introduced into the house at a depth of 0.5-0.7
m. When deciding how to remove the sewer from a private house, you must definitely take into account the maximum protection of the pipeline. To do this, a sleeve is installed at the site of the opening from the foundation, the diameter of which is significantly larger than the pipe. This condition is important for the formation of free space between two surfaces.

In general, installing a sewer system in a private house is not difficult, even on your own. But in any case, having basic skills in electrical work will not hurt.