How to remove the cooling fan on a Ford Fusion. The radiator cooling fan does not turn on! Search for possible causes and faults! Ford Fusion where is the fan switch located?

A faulty radiator fan can lead to engine overheating, especially in warmer months.

If your fan has failed and you want to replace or disassemble it yourself, you should proceed as follows:

• Disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the battery.
• Release the latch and disconnect the block with wires from the fan motor.
• Press the fasteners on the sides of the fan and pull it down.
• Unscrew the nut that secures the impeller to the motor.
• Remove the impeller.
• Unscrew the nut and remove the electric motor casing.

Assembly and installation are carried out in the reverse order.

How to check the cooling fan on a Ford Fusion?

The fan must be replaced if you have determined for sure that it is faulty. If the engine gets hot and the fan won't turn on, first you need to check the thermostat. To do this, you need to pull out the wires from it and short-circuit them directly. In this case, a working fan should turn on. If motor burned out, the fan will not work.

The main cause of cooling fan malfunction is wire damage.

If the fan is not working, it is also worth checking the fuse of the electric motor.

How much does a cooling fan cost for a Ford Fusion?

Original cooling fan with catalog number 1494829 can be bought for 14,000 rubles. Fan 1495674 will cost 28 thousand rubles.

If you want to save money, you can buy a used part or a replacement.

At what temperature does the fan turn on?

The first speed of the cooling fan turns on at a coolant temperature of 92-97 degrees, at 99-105 degrees the fan starts operating at the second speed.

What to do if the engine overheats?

If your car still starts to boil while the fan is running, try to drive to the side of the road and stop. If there is no coolant leak, you should not turn off the engine immediately - let it run with the engine turned on. full power stove. After a couple of minutes of this operation, turn off the engine. Carefully open the hood and look under the hood to find the source of the steam. The expansion tank cap should not be opened in this situation, as it is under pressure.

Next, check the engine compartment, as well as the area in the front passenger's feet for leaks; tension of the accessory belt drive; thermostat. All these factors influence quality work cooling systems.

If the fuse is blown fan or thermostat, the problem can be solved on the spot, as well as fixing some leaks. In case of more serious damage, it is necessary to proceed to the place of repair by any available means.

The cars considered were 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008 with 1.3, 1.4, 1.6, 2.0 liter gasoline engines.

Ford Fiesta restyling fuses.

Where are the fuses and relays located?

Most fuses and relays are located in the vehicle's interior fuse and relay mounting block, located under the instrument panel on the right side (behind the glove box). The assignment of fuses and relays is given in the table.

To access the fuses, open the glove compartment

Remove the glove box travel limiters from the instrument panel by squeezing its walls and fold the glove box down.

On the back of the glove compartment there is a diagram of the location of fuses and relays.

Purpose of fuses in the mounting block in the interior of a Ford Fusion, Ford Fiesta.

Relay designation.

Fuses and relays in the engine compartment.

Number 6 is the fuse mounting block.

To replace the fuses in the engine compartment, you must remove the battery.

Remove the fuse box from the wall of the battery shelf.

Then use a screwdriver to press the latch and remove the fuse box cover

Unscrew the two fastening nuts

And remove the fuse.

Refusal of constant rotation of the fan using a belt drive made it possible to reduce the engine warm-up time. Electric drive, which consists of a motor, relay, switching sensor and battery, allows the fan to turn on only when the engine temperature exceeds optimal value. Thanks to this approach, the cooling system of internal combustion engines has become more efficient. Periodically turning on the fan made it possible to reduce fuel consumption, because the engine warm-up time was reduced and power losses due to the constant rotation of the blades disappeared.

How does it work and where is the fan switch sensor located?

The sensor is based on a bimetallic plate, which changes its shape with increasing temperature. When the coolant temperature exceeds the value indicated on the sensor body, bending of the bimetallic plate causes the sensor contacts to close. Electricity, which passes through the sensor contacts, turns on the power relay that controls the fan motor.

The sensor is located on the side of the radiator. On some models it is located at the top, on others in the middle. It is not difficult to recognize him. It looks like a large brass nut, to which two (less often three) fit electrical wires. When planning to change the fan switch sensor, consider the following. The lower the sensor response temperature, the lower it is set relative to the coolant level. The switching temperature of the sensors, which are installed at the bottom of the radiator, does not exceed 85 degrees. The temperature of the sensors is set in the middle of the radiator to 90 - 95 degrees.

How to check the fan switch sensor

The need to check the sensor arises after the motor overheats or there is a suspicion of bad job cooling systems. First of all, it is necessary to check not the sensor, but the wires and relays that turn on the fan. To do this, remove the wires suitable for the sensor and short-circuit them; if there are not two, but three wires, then you need to short-circuit the middle one and each of the outer ones one by one. The fan should turn on at low and high speed, depending on which contacts are closed. If the fan turns on, it means that the wires and relays are working properly and you can start checking the sensor; if not, you need to find and eliminate the malfunction (broken wires, poor contact, blown fuse, burnt out relays or fan motor).

After making sure that the relay, motor and wires are working properly, proceed to checking the sensor. To do this, you will need a basin for coolant, a 30 key, a thermometer up to 100 degrees, a pan of water, a stove and a multimeter. Remove the terminal from the battery and place a basin under the car so that the coolant from the radiator does not pour onto the ground, but into it. Wait until the radiator cools down to 45 - 50 degrees, then unscrew drain plug(it is located at the bottom of the radiator on the left or right side). After the liquid has drained, screw the plug into place. Remove the wires from the sensor (if there are 3 of them, then mark each one so that when installing a new sensor you do not mix them up), then unscrew the sensor with a 30 mm wrench.

Pour water into a saucepan so that it covers the working part of the sensor (up to the nut) and place it on the stove. Monitor the water temperature with a thermometer.

Use a multimeter to check the sensor contacts are triggered. For a three-pin one, it is advisable to use two multimeters. Turn the multimeter into resistance measurement mode with a sound signal and connect it to the sensor terminals. When the bimetallic strip closes the contacts, the multimeter will start beeping. Turn off the stove and wait until the multimeters turn off. Compare the thermometer readings at the moment the sensor contacts activate and turn off. If the deviation from the values ​​​​written on the sensor body is more than 5%, it is advisable to replace it. If the deviation is more than 10%, or the sensor does not work at all, it must be replaced. Installation proceeds in the following order - screwing in the sensor, filling in coolant, connecting the battery.

Video - Replacing and diagnosing the fan switch sensor

How to choose a new sensor

To select the right sensor, you need to know the optimal coolant temperature at which it should turn on and off. For a VAZ 2110 car this is 92 and 87 degrees. Optimal temperature sensor activation for another car is indicated in the repair and operating instructions for the car. Buy the sensor only in large stores and be sure to take the receipt. Before installing the sensor on the vehicle, check it as described above. If the difference between the temperature indicated on the sensor body and the temperature at which it actually operates exceeds 5%, replace it. Operating the motor at a temperature different from the optimal one greatly reduces its service life.

1. First you need to check the corresponding fuse in the additional relay box on the left under the dashboard. (chapter Body electrical system).
2. If it is OK, disconnect the thermal switch plug.
3. Connect both contacts in the wire lug with a piece of wire.
4. With a two-stage thermostat, all three plug tabs must be connected.
5. If the fan starts to work when the ignition is turned on, this means that the thermal switch excluded from the electrical circuit(for testing).
6. For further movement, you need to secure the wire well in the plugs and insulate it with adhesive tape or plaster to prevent a short circuit.
7. If disconnecting the thermal switch does not lead to success, check the fan relay in the central switch (see chapter Body electrical system): if both thermal switch jumpers are “bypassed”, then when the ignition is turned on, the contacts in the relay should clearly audibly close.
8. If nothing is heard, then you need to “bypass” the relay using auxiliary means. To do this, connect the relay plug tabs of terminals 30 and 87 with a piece of wire (a paper clip) and insert the relay.
9. The cooling system fan should now start even with the ignition off. If this happens, then the relay is faulty.
10. In an emergency, the jumper wire can remain installed during movement. It must be removed after the trip is completed.
11. If in this case there is no reaction, check the fan motor:
12. Disconnect the wire tip at the fan motor and instead run an auxiliary wire from the red-black wire terminal to the positive terminal of the battery. The plug connection of the brown wire must be connected directly to the negative terminal.
13. If the impeller still does not rotate, the fan motor is faulty and needs to be replaced.
14. If the fan starts working, you need to check the relay (see chapter Body electrical system), wire lugs, as well as all cable connections from the thermal switch and fan.
15. You can continue driving safely even with the fan powered directly from the battery. Auxiliary wiring should be routed to prevent short circuits.
16. In suitably equipped models, the second stage of the fan or the device for turning on the fan after the engine stops running receives power through the red-blue wire. To check this fan stage, connect the “+” wire to the red-blue wire of the motor plug contact.

The engine cooling system is a complex mechanism, the health of which very often determines the health of the engine, its performance, and its service life. Unstable operation of the cooling system or failure of one of its components can lead to dire consequences, such as engine overheating.

Today I want to talk about such an unpleasant and largely incomprehensible phenomenon when the radiator cooling fan does not turn on, as a result of which the engine temperature rises and there is a risk of engine overheating.

Theory, where would we be without it?

First, a few words about when the fan should turn on and what is considered normal. The cooling system fan turns on automatically as soon as the coolant temperature reaches a certain point, usually in the range from 85° to 100°.

When the engine is cold and it needs to quickly warm up the engine coolant through a small circle of the cooling system, bypassing the radiator, the electric fan is also turned off. As soon as the engine has warmed up to operating temperature, the thermostat is activated, which opens a large circle, that is, a circle with the participation of the radiator. This allows air flows to cool the antifreeze, preventing it from warming up above the permitted mark. But what to do if the air flow is not enough or the car has slowed down significantly or stopped altogether? The radiator cooling fan is specifically designed for these cases. It comes into operation when neither the large circle nor the air flow passing through the radiator honeycombs helps. The fan turns on automatically and forcibly cools the radiator, removing excess heat from it, thereby reducing the temperature of the coolant. If for some reason the fan suddenly does not work on a warm engine under load in the heat, this may mean that the coolant temperature will rise until cooling resumes. If the fan does not turn on, the engine temperature reaches a critical point, after which the engine boils, or rather the coolant boils, cooling is not carried out and the power unit works, which is called “peddling”. Even short-term overheating can have a detrimental effect on the condition of the motor and may result in an unpleasant breakdown in the future. Prolonged overheating usually ends with it boiling away and the motor simply “jamming”, after which it becomes completely incapacitated.

Why doesn't the fan work? Let's find out!

1. Wiring and contact. Any of these reasons, despite their harmlessness, can be the reason why the fan simply does not turn on at the right time. It also often happens when the reason lies in the malfunction of the electric fan motor itself, which for one reason or another cannot start working. In cases with the electrical network, I would recommend finding an experienced electrician who will empirically determine the fault and answer the question of why the cooling fan does not turn on.
2. Fuse. A blown fuse can also be attributed to common causes that occur quite often. An open circuit due to a blown fuse will prevent the electric fan from turning on, resulting in an increase in engine temperature. You can check the fuse very simply, just remove the fuse that is responsible for the operation of the fan, and replace it with a new fuse or simply insert a piece of wire in such a way as to close the circuit. If during the test the electric fan starts to work, then the reason is in the fuse.
3. Air lock or low coolant level. Check the coolant level and the cooling system hoses. At operating temperature The hoses leading to the radiator should be hot and the coolant level should be correct in both the expansion tank and the radiator. Be careful, checking the antifreeze level is only done on a cold engine. Also, if the fan does not work, you should pay attention to the circulation of antifreeze; after warming up, it should circulate in a large circle. If this is not the case, perhaps the system has airlock how to remove it. A decrease in coolant level may indicate a leak in the cooling system. IN best case scenario we will be talking about replacing the cylinder head gasket, at worst - about a crack in the block or burnout...
4. Temperature sensor. Thanks to this sensor, the electronic unit (ECU) decides whether to turn on the fan or not. Unstable operation or malfunction of this sensor will lead to the ECU receiving incorrect information about the coolant temperature, as a result of which the fan will not turn on.
5. The last suspect is . If it is faulty, the circulation of antifreeze will be difficult, as a result, the operation of the fan will be compromised. For example, when the thermostat is stuck in the “small circle”, the fan does not turn off and runs constantly, because the engine is warmed up, the temperature rises and the fan tries to fix it all. The only problem is that due to the stuck thermostat, the liquid in the radiator does not circulate and cooling does not occur. In some cases, the opposite happens: the temperature sensor does not work, because the jammed one does not allow liquid to pass through a large circle, and as a result, the electric fan does not turn on.

That’s all I have, write in the comments about what reasons you know for a non-working fan, share your experience and perhaps your story will help someone solve their issue. Thank you for your attention and see you again on . Bye!