If your friends gave you an oven and a hob with separate power supply, but forgot to tell you how to connect them correctly, then you can find out about it on this page.
Even children and bank employees know that you need an outlet to connect electrical appliances.
Some will argue that you can only connect the wires coming from the hob and oven by twisting them and clamping them with the terminals with the electrical cable coming from the panel, but we know that our electrical appliances deserve more. They are worthy of a quality socket that has a simple advantage over twisting. The advantage of this is the quick connection and high-quality contact.
What kind of outlet is needed to connect both the oven and the hob? The solution is simple, and it is reflected in the photo below.
Socket location
This is a paired socket. You can connect both a hob and an oven to it at the same time. The large socket connects the hob, and the small socket connects the oven. I will provide you with the most complete information on how to do this. All you have to do is follow what you read.
First, decide where the outlet will be located. In my opinion, if there is space behind the furniture to the right or left of the oven and hob, then it is most convenient to place the outlet there. There are no strict rules here. You only need to think about how it will be more convenient to plug in and remove plugs from sockets when necessary.
It would not be amiss to mention that this socket is overhead, that is, it is placed on the wall, and not recessed into it. I don’t know why, but until now all sockets for electric stoves are made of overhead ones. But don't let that bother you. As much furniture as I have seen, the socket fits perfectly into the distance between the wall and the cabinet. And if you are making custom-made furniture, then discuss the location of this outlet in advance.
There is a hole on the side of the socket for the cable, so you don't have to break it out with pliers, which in itself is nice. Therefore, the cable from the panel can be run directly along the wall, securing it with dowel clamps. Or if you want, drown it in the groove as in the photo.
Attaching the socket for the oven and panel
Once you disassemble the outlet, you will find a metal panel to attach the outlet to the wall. It must be secured first through the existing holes. Attach the panel to the wall, make markings and safely drill with a hammer drill. Dowels and nails with a diameter of 6 mm fit perfectly into the holes. If the wall is concrete, use a 6x40 dowel. If the wall is brick, then choose the length of the dowel based on the density of the wall.
It must be remembered that when a dowel is driven or twisted into a nail, it expands in its far part. Therefore, if when drilling you feel a void in the brick closer to the surface of the wall, take a long dowel. Choose the length so that he has something to anchor himself in. If, when drilling, you immediately feel the resistance of the brick, then a short dowel, as for concrete, will be sufficient.
But if you are not sure that the panel is firmly fastened, drill additional holes in it with a metal drill and repeat everything again.
Installation of wires for the socket
Now comes the most difficult and responsible task. We remember that we have two sockets in one housing. The wires are connected in parallel, as in conventional twin sockets on the walls.
But there is one nuance that is worth paying attention to. In ordinary sockets, we usually extend the wire to the next one. Otherwise, they are simply uncomfortable. But ordinary sockets use wires with a smaller cross-section, usually 2.5 mm2. Those who have experience connecting them know how difficult it can be to bend several wires and give them the desired position in the socket boxes.
And in the socket for the oven and hob, the cable is even thicker, and there is even less room for maneuver. The cable is at least 4, or even 6 mm2. It is very difficult to bend such a cable into a socket shape. And clamping two cables into terminals is even more problematic. The contact may not be reliable, and over time it will begin to spark and burn, which can lead to failure of electrical appliances, or even spontaneous combustion.
There is a simpler and more reliable solution. You need to pass the entire cable, without cutting it, through the terminals of the first socket to the terminals of the second. For the terminals of the first socket you only need to remove the insulation. This can be done carefully with a sharp blade.
First, accurately calculate the place where the cable passes through the terminals, make marks and safely remove the insulation. Once again, the cable is very stiff! For high-quality marking and fastening, you need to do the following.
Completely remove the terminals from the large outlet. To do this, you need to unscrew the screws and not lose them, and all the small parts associated with them. Pass the wires into the vacant spaces following the following recommendations. Upper and lower terminals for phase and zero. It makes no difference where you connect them. The main thing is that the phase and zero correspond to the wires of the plug, which will be described below. The terminal that is a little further and closer to the middle is for grounding. Everything is visible in the photo, see below.
Once you manage to thread the wires, install the platform on the panel already attached to the wall and secure it lightly with bolts. Now, having straightened the wires, you can make markings.
The remaining wire or cable, call it what you want, straighten it so that it is convenient to insert it into the next outlet, then cut off the excess and strip the ends of the insulation.
Now unfasten the platform from the panel on the wall. Pull the wires out a little. So much so that it is convenient for you to remove the insulation for the terminals of the first large socket. Remove the insulation and carefully push the terminals into place. I warn you that this is not a simple matter or even a jewelry one.
Unfortunately, domestic technologies suffer greatly from some “clumsiness”. That’s why I personally cursed a couple of times while installing these terminals. I am sure that many of you cannot avoid this either. But everything will work out, I'm sure.
The socket terminals for the oven are mounted as for a regular socket, grounding in the middle, phase and neutral at the edges. But given the rigidity of the wire, you will have to tinker a little.
If, after removing the insulation from the cable, you find a layer of oxidation on it, then sand the copper with very fine sandpaper for better contact. Very fine - this is sandpaper for sanding walls for painting, with a grit of 240 or so.
Clamp the wires into the terminals, install the platform in place and fix it to the mounting strip. Remember, or better yet, write down or photograph the location of the phase and zero in the terminals of the hob socket, this will be useful to you when installing the plug for it. You can use a marker to make the necessary marks directly on the white cover.
Now you can safely close everything with a lid and enjoy your work.
The wire to the hob terminals must be installed in accordance with the hob instructions, each one has its own. You need to buy a stranded wire, but the cross-section of the wire must correspond to the cross-section of the cable (or wire) going from the panel to the outlet. .
The main thing is that the phase and neutral wires in the plug match the phase and neutral wires in the socket.
For those who don’t know, the yellow-green wire corresponds to grounding, blue or blue and white to zero, all other colors to phase. If you understand everything, then you will not have any problems.
Even if all the wires are connected by color as you please, the main thing is that the phase and zero are in place, regardless of the color. The phase in the socket can be checked with a regular indicator screwdriver when turning on the machine in the panel. The phase in the terminals on the hob is indicated by a letter.
In the instructions for the hob, phase and zero are indicated as follows. L – phase. N – zero. Grounding is indicated by a special symbol that you will immediately recognize. The main thing here is not to make a mistake in matching the phase and zero when the plug contacts the socket. Everything else is simple.
An oven, unlike a hob, is almost always equipped with a plug, just like a TV, hair dryer, refrigerator and other electrical appliances. There is nothing you need to do here. There is no need to look for correspondences and coincidences in phase and zero. There is no need to disassemble the plug and look where the color of the wire is. Just like you don’t do this when you plug in other household electrical appliances.
By the way, about washing machines. It happens that some washing machines connected without an RCD or grounding “pinch” their owners with electric current. In this case, the following simple solution often helps. Unplug the plug from the outlet and plug it back in, reversing the “teeth” of the plug.
As for connecting the oven and hob to the outlet, that’s all I wanted to write. If you have any difficulties, ask in the comments. I hope that everything stated above will help you a lot.
An oven, with or without a hob, is a high-power device that consumes a large amount of electrical current. And if the wiring in the apartment turns out to be unsatisfactory for some reason, difficulties may arise with connecting the unit.
Old and new wiring
The type of oven plug you need depends on several factors. They also influence the choice of outlet. However, with any option, the main safety requirement is grounding. And if the Euro-socket by default includes grounding, then this cannot be said about old wiring and ordinary sockets.
- The old wiring with circuit breakers - on the distribution panel, in the electrical panel and so on, suggests only one solution: to service the equipment you will need to install new three-wire wiring - “phase”, “ground”, “zero”, otherwise there is a risk of the switch constantly tripping, which leads to equipment failure.
- How to connect a plug in an apartment with new wiring is not a question. Equipping with Euro sockets and Euro plugs solves this problem without any difficulty. Most models from Samsung, Bosch or Electrolux are equipped with adapters by default. It is enough to plug the plug into an outlet without a filter or extension cord for the device to work.
There are no such difficulties with gas devices, but they do have their drawbacks.
Another factor that determines which plug is needed for the oven is the power of the device.
- With a maximum, non-working, oven power of 3–3.5 kW, a socket and plug rated for a current of 15 A is sufficient. In this case, when laying the cable, it is necessary to use a copper wire of at least 2.5 square meters. mm in cross section.
- If the power is higher - up to 5 kW, for example, a device from Bosch or Samsung with pyrolytic cleaning, then you will need a 32 A socket, and the copper cable for it must have a cross-section of at least 4 square meters. mm.
How to connect the oven
Quite often, devices - both Electrolux and Samsung - do not come with a plug, but only a power cable. What kind of socket and plug it needs determines the power of the device, and how to connect it depends on the wiring in the kitchen. The photo shows the cable connection.
- First of all, it is necessary to establish that the network parameters in the apartment meet the requirements of the device. The instructions contain a table of factory values, which indicates all the requirements, including which plug is needed.
- A load-bearing plug is attached to the power cable. Connecting the plug to a Samsung, Bosch or Electrolux oven is done in the same way. As a rule, wires are marked in different colors. If the wires are the same, the phase is set using an indicator screwdriver.
- The oven is mounted in a niche in such a way that there is a gap of 30 mm between the back wall and the wall, and 85 mm between the floor and the body. You need to make sure that there are no gas pipes between the device and the wall. The device heats up noticeably during cooking, and gas pipes, due to operating conditions, exclude thermal insulation.
How to connect a model without a cable
Some high-power devices are sold without a plug or power cable. It is believed that direct connection to the wiring is more economical and reliable, since it eliminates unnecessary contacts. If this method seems unsafe or too unusual, you can connect the plug to the oven. Which one is needed for the device needs to be clarified in the instructions.
- Install a Euro socket - 16 or 32 A.
- Remove the protective cover from the back of the case. There are three wires here: red, white and black. Green is also possible - grounding.
- Colored wires are connected to the terminal connectors; the colors of the cord must match the shade of the connector wires: black and red mean alternating current, green and white mean grounding.
- The wires are screwed to the connector and the joining areas are wrapped with insulating tape.
- Then install the protective shield on the housing and connect the device.
- The oven is placed taking into account the same requirements: a gap around the body, no gas pipes.
The model with a hob is connected in the same way. The photo shows an oven without a plug.
The socket for the hob and oven must meet all safety requirements and must be installed following all installation rules. Such household appliances are now in great demand in any kitchen; you will learn how to connect them to the mains later in this article.
You need to take the choice of electrical installation devices and wiring seriously, because now any equipment “eats” a lot of electricity and the issue of saving should be one of the first places. To do this, you need to select separate lines with a special design for sockets.
Electric hobs and ovens consume a lot of power (from 2.5 to 10 kW). Therefore, according to modern electrical safety rules, sockets for them require a separate dedicated power line from the panel.
Moreover, if the hob and oven provide for independent installation, then they will require two sockets, with separate connection points on.
Many people have a question: is it possible to connect an electric oven from an existing regular outlet that was previously installed in the kitchen for a kettle, microwave, etc.?
- It is possible, the main thing is that 3 conditions are met:
- the oven must have a power of no more than 3.5 kW;
- the socket is connected with a three-core copper cable from the panel with a cross-section of at least 2.5 mm2;
- in the electrical panel, replace a conventional circuit breaker with a thermal release with a differential circuit breaker with a rated current of no more than 16 A.
According to the third condition, some may experience inconvenience and minor problems. As a rule, many people still have one 16 A - 25 A circuit breaker for the entire socket group, plus one more for lighting.
If you replace the only circuit breaker for sockets with a differential 16 A and connect the oven through it, it will be practically impossible to use other electrical appliances while the oven is working and food is being prepared.
Here you will have to make your own choice, either in favor of saving (not installing new wiring, a separate outlet, etc.), or in favor of comfort and convenience. It is not recommended to leave a regular modular machine in the panel without protection against leakage currents when connecting the oven to an old outlet.
The installation height of the new socket under the oven should be no more than 90 cm from the floor. Although it is also often placed at the level of the kitchen legs.
The most important thing here is ease of use. For safety reasons, when wet cleaning and wiping the oven with a wet cloth, it must be disconnected from the power supply.
And crawling under the very bottom of the kitchen every time to pull out the plug is not always convenient. In addition, here you need to take into account possible situations such as water leaks and kitchen flooding. Therefore, the socket should still be raised 5-10 cm above the floor.
Selection of cable cross-section:
| Wire core cross-section, mm 2 | Conductor core diameter, mm | Copper conductors | Aluminum conductors | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Current, A | Power, W | Current, A | Power, W | ||
| 0.5 | 0.8 | 6 | 1300 | ||
| 0.75 | 0.98 | 10 | 2200 | ||
| 1 | 1.13 | 14 | 3100 | ||
| 1.5 | 1.38 | 15 | 3300 | 10 | 2200 |
| 2 | 1.6 | 19 | 4200 | 14 | 3100 |
| 2.5 | 1.78 | 21 | 4600 | 16 | 3500 |
| 4 | 2.26 | 27 | 5900 | 21 | 4600 |
| 6 | 2.76 | 34 | 7500 | 26 | 5700 |
| 10 | 3.57 | 50 | 11000 | 38 | 8400 |
| 16 | 4.51 | 80 | 17600 | 55 | 12100 |
| 25 | 5.64 | 100 | 22000 | 65 | 14300 |
NYM is also suitable. These cables have an optimal price/quality ratio. You will need three-core ones - 3*2.5. Just when choosing, measure the diameter of the wire and calculate the cross-section. Too many manufacturers began to make the cores thinner than stated to save money. Therefore, control is mandatory.
When installing more powerful ovens - with built-in steam generators - it is recommended to use cables with a wire cross-section of 4 mm2. A 25 A machine is installed on the line.
In general, connecting the oven to electricity with recommendations for the cable used and ratings of protective equipment (automatic devices) is described in detail in the product data sheet. And it’s better to listen to the manufacturer’s recommendations. They are not interested in breakdowns of their own products and issue recommendations with a margin of safety.
Let's look at the connection using an Electrolux induction hob as an example. Such a panel has high power; it is plugged not into a regular household outlet, but into a power outlet designed for a current of more than 16 A.
The power socket for connecting the induction cooker is selected according to its load. The total load of an induction cooker can be on average 25-32 A, depending on the number and power of burners.
To power the induction cooker, in this case, an individual electrical wiring line must be laid. The cable cross-section depends on the load of the induction cooker: for a current of 25 A, a copper cable with a cross-section of 4 square meters should be laid. mm, for a load of 32 A - 6 sq. mm.
For safe operation of the induction cooker, the electrical wiring must have a working protective ground. That is, for a single-phase network, a three-core cable must be connected to connect the induction cooker. Accordingly, the purchased power socket and plug set must also have a third grounding contact.
If it is not possible to purchase a power outlet of the required power, then as an alternative, you can connect the induction hob to the terminal block installed in the installation box. The terminal block must be able to withstand the rated current of the induction cooker connected to it.
As for the cable through which the induction cooker is connected, in this case it all depends on the configuration. If the power cable is included, then it is enough to connect it to the terminal block directly on the induction cooker, and then to the purchased power plug or in the terminal block, depending on the chosen method of connecting the induction cooker.
If the cable is not included, it must be purchased separately. When purchasing a cable, you must pay attention to its cross-section - it must correspond to the load being connected. It is necessary to purchase a flexible three-core cable with a cross-section of 4 or 6 square meters. mm for rated currents of 25 and 32 A, respectively.
To avoid errors, it is recommended to connect the cable to the stove itself, as well as to the plug, according to generally accepted color markings: brown or black - phase conductor, blue - neutral conductor, yellow-green - protective grounding conductor.
- If the cable is already connected to the terminal block of the electric stove, then you need to check that it is connected correctly. The following terminal markings are usually indicated on the terminals of an induction cooker:
- L - phase output or L1, L2 (L3) - phase outputs for two-phase (three-phase) connection;
- N - zero output;
- PE is the connection point for the protective grounding conductor.
Certain types of induction hobs may provide a two or three-phase connection to the electrical network. If the house has a three-phase input, then such an electric stove is connected as recommended by the manufacturer - to two or three phases of the electrical wiring with a four or five-core cable.
The electric stove is connected to a single-phase household electrical network with a three-core cable, and special jumpers between the phases, which are usually included, are installed in the terminal block on the induction cooker. If there are no jumpers, then the connection to two or three phase terminals is made with a wire of a cross-section corresponding to the load of the electric stove.
It should be taken into account that if the kit includes a cable for two- or three-phase connection, then it is not designed for single-phase connection, since when the induction cooker is connected single-phase, the load on the phase conductor increases to the total load of all phases.
Therefore, when using a four (five) core cable to connect to a single-phase network, two (three) phases on the plate are connected to the cable cores, and at the other end of the cable, when connected to a plug or terminal block, the phase conductors are short-circuited with each other and connected to one phase of the electrical network .
Or a new three-core cable is purchased, which has sufficient load capacity for a single-phase connection of an electric stove.
- The power of the hob is an important parameter when choosing a device for three main reasons:
- The speed with which your dishes undergo heat treatment depends on the power. Agree that it is better when it is possible to prepare dishes as quickly as possible.
- Modern stoves have burners of different power, and this is very convenient. If you only need a small amount of heat, why waste extra gas or electricity on uselessly heating the air in the kitchen. However, the other side of the issue should also be taken into account - the power of the largest burner should also be sufficient to quickly cook a large pot of soup.
- Modern kitchens often have air conditioning installed. When heat energy is released in too large quantities, the load on the air conditioner increases accordingly. At the same time, the extra costs for both heating the air and cooling it are completely unjustified.
So, it is worth choosing a hob with such power that the cooking time is fast, but the heat generated is optimal.
An electrical device of a traditional design consumes the most electrical power of all the types considered, so we will start the review with this option.
- The most common stoves on the market these days are those with four burners. Thus, the standard number of heating points has not changed over the decades of the existence of home stoves. The connection is also similar. However, manufacturers have gone to modernize the heating points, so they have different power:
- the first burner has the lowest power - 0.4-1 kW;
- two burners have an average power of approximately 1.5 kW;
- The fourth burner has the highest power - up to 3 kW.
An induction hob is the most modern type of equipment for heating food in the kitchen. Its average power is about 7 kW. However, please note that this is the consolidated power of the device.
Due to the fact that cooking on an induction surface takes a minimum of time, the simultaneous operation of all disks is almost impossible. And even if this happens, the short period of peak energy consumption is quickly replaced by inaction, since the cooking has already ended - the soup has finished cooking, the fish has finished cooking, the kettle has boiled.
Thus, although the power of an induction cooker is equal to the power of a conventional electric cooker, by heating exclusively the bottom and lower part of the cookware (and not the air underneath), electricity is spent only on heat treatment of the products. It is important to note that saving energy requires the use of special cookware in cooking.
Cable for electric stove
The correct choice of cable for an electric stove is primarily important for electrical safety. The choice of cable for the stove depends on the power of the stove itself, as well as on the type of network (single-phase, three-phase).
- Let's consider the stages of connecting the stove, starting from the circuit breaker, that is:
- cross-section and type of cable for laying from the circuit breaker to the power outlet where the stove will be connected (single-phase network);
- wire and its cross-section from the stove itself to the outlet.
In a single-phase network, a separate cable with copper conductors is connected from the circuit breaker to the stove. The cable cross-section for an electric stove is selected based on the rated current of the machine (Table 1), which in turn is selected based on the design load.
Having determined the design load (power of electrical appliances), the design current is determined, according to which the rating of the machine is selected, the closest in current, but greater than the design one.
We recommend that you familiarize yourself with PUE 3.1. If the power of the stove is less than 9 kW, then in this case the cable for the stove is connected to a circuit breaker rated 32 A; if the power is 9 kW or more, then the input circuit breaker must be designed for a current of 40 A.
As a cable brand, we recommend using 3-core power cables VVG, VVGng, NYM of the appropriate cross-section. As a rule, the cross-section for copper is taken from 6 mm2. If you purchased a stove with a power of up to 9 kW, the wire cross-section is at least 4 sq. mm.
A power socket with three contacts for a single-phase network is installed at the connection point of the stove.
Since there are quite a lot of variations for connecting a stove, manufacturers do not always provide a cable for an electric stove with the product. We recommend using flexible cables of the KG or PVS brands as a cable for connecting the stove from the outlet.
The optimal cable length is 1.5-2 meters. For standard stoves (6 kW) for 220 V, PVS 3x4 or KG 3x4 cables are suitable.
When purchasing powerful household appliances, the question of its installation and connection inevitably arises. You can, of course, trust the master, but connecting the oven costs $25. And this is if the wiring is already there. That is, to plug it into the outlet, install it in place, and screw it to the ends of the kitchen cabinet. If you need to pull the wiring, the cost of the work increases significantly. That's why many people think about doing everything themselves.
Connecting an oven with your own hands requires knowing some rules - we’ll tell you everything step by step. When thinking through the nuances, the first thing to do is to assess the condition of the existing wiring and find out its cross-section. If the wiring has been laid recently, done according to all the rules, a 2.5 mm cable goes to the socket group and there is a 16 A (or more) machine, you can connect any oven using a power cord, plug and socket. Everything is really simple, but there are disadvantages:
- While the oven is operating, it is impossible to turn on any powerful equipment in the same socket group - the machine will knock out.
- From time to time you will have to replace melted sockets, since they are not designed to carry significant currents for a long time.
If you agree with this, connecting the oven is really very simple: install, secure, turn on.
It is not advisable to connect a heavy load to old wires, but if the condition of the wiring is normal, it is three-wire with a normally functioning grounding, this is possible. To check the condition of the insulation, we measure the insulation resistance of the cores. This is done using a megohmmeter. If the standards are met (at least 0.5 MOhm), the oven can be connected. One important point: the cross-section of the wire must be at least 2.5 mm 2 (copper), and a machine of a suitable rating (16 A) must be installed.
Core cross-section and machine rating
If you have to draw a new line, first you need to decide on the cross-section of the cable cores. On average, the maximum power consumption of ovens is 3-3.8 kW. But these are peak loads in which the equipment operates very rarely. In normal mode, consumption is rarely more than 2 kW.
However, it is correct to calculate the wiring specifically for maximum consumption. For cables with copper conductors, the recommended cross-section is 2.5 mm 2, the automatic machine is 16 A. This has a significant power reserve (recommended load up to 5.9 kW), but these are the recommendations of almost all manufacturers and only under such conditions they save their warranty obligations.
Another nuance: all modern household appliances are designed to be grounded. That's why the cables use three-core cables. For installation in a house or apartment, you can use VVGng, VVGngLs and its other non-flammable varieties. NYM is also suitable. These cables have an optimal price/quality ratio. You will need three-core ones - 3*2.5. Only when choosing. Too many manufacturers began to make the cores thinner than stated to save money. Therefore, control is mandatory.
When installing more powerful ovens - with built-in steam generators - it is recommended to use cables with a wire cross-section of 4 mm 2. A 25 A machine is installed on the line.
In general, connecting the oven to electricity with recommendations for the cable used and ratings of protective equipment (automatic devices) is described in detail in the product data sheet. And it’s better to listen to the manufacturer’s recommendations. They are not interested in breakdowns of their own products and issue recommendations with a margin of safety.
RCD - necessary or not
In addition to the automatic safety switch, it is recommended to install an RCD on the oven. The machine protects the line from overheating and short circuit currents. At the same time, it is not able to protect against breakdown of the body, and this is a real danger. That is why it is recommended to install a combination of RCD + AB or a difavtomat (a device that combines all functions). Then, if the insulation breaks down on the housing or if a phase is accidentally touched, no one will get hurt.
The choice of RCD rating is simple: one step higher than the machine. If there is a 16 A circuit breaker on the line, the RCD should be 25 A. You also need to select the leakage current. For leased lines this is 10 mA.
Wiring methods
In general, it is customary to lay wiring hidden - in plaster or grooves. But it is dusty and destructive work that leaves noticeable marks. It’s good if everything can be easily fixed by re-pasting the wallpaper or repainting the walls. If not, you will have to use other cable routing methods.
The first way is to lay it in cable channels. These are plastic or metal boxes in which cables are laid. They are screwed to the walls and have removable covers. The aesthetics of such a solution is debatable. In some cases, simply running a cable attracts less attention. Another thing is that on flammable bases (wooden walls or ceilings) it must be pulled in a corrugated manner and this is definitely noticeable. In general, the option is possible, but not very beautiful.
The second way is to stretch the line in special skirting boards. They are taller and wider than usual, but the wire can be reached covertly, it is protected from mechanical damage, and the aesthetics of this solution are excellent. In addition, it is easy to do, without dust and any special problems.
Connecting the oven to electricity: options
There are several ways to connect the oven to the mains:
Some manufacturers install power cords at the factory. They are connected to the terminal block located on the rear panel. This cord can be removed. This does not affect the warranty. Instead, a cord is connected to the corresponding terminals, which comes directly from the panel or from a machine installed near the equipment. The second option is used if several devices are connected to one powerful line. In this case, one powerful wire, say, with a cross-section of 6 mm2, is pulled to the kitchen. They bring it into a small box, install two or more machines in it (according to the number of connected equipment) and from them lines are drawn to the equipment.
Choosing a location for an outlet
If you are planning to connect the oven through an outlet installed on a dedicated line, the question immediately arises: where should it be installed. Here's the problem. In this case, the socket and plug are installed as power ones, but their appearance, to put it mildly, is “not very good” and placing them above the work surface is unaesthetic. That’s why they are looking for a hidden installation method. This is where the problem arises: you need to find a place that makes it easy to turn on/off the equipment and that is safe (to exclude the possibility of water, dust, dirt, and mechanical damage). There are several options for solving the problem:
- If the kitchen set has a plinth, install it behind the oven, a few centimeters above the floor level. Not the best option. There are many disadvantages. The first is difficult access. To turn the oven off/on from the mains, you have to almost lie down on the floor, sticking your hand all the way to the wall. The second is a high probability of contamination. In the kitchen, even under the furniture, grease and dirt accumulate. They will definitely be on the socket, which worsens contact and reduces electrical safety.
- If there is free space between the top panel of the oven and the countertop, it can be used to install sockets. A good option for dependent equipment. It must be connected to the same outlet. The option is “so-so” in terms of connection availability - to turn it on/off from the network you need to lift the hob. If you need to connect an independent oven, this option does not work at all.
- Install the socket behind the oven at a level of 50-80 cm from the floor. Paired with a long cord (at least 120 cm), it can be pulled out and turned off. This is exactly what Bosch recommends doing. But this option is more than controversial. Considering that the oven is fixed with bolts to the side walls of the cabinet, disconnecting from electricity will be quite a quest.
Connecting the oven using a socket installed behind the oven. This option is not available for all manufacturers. Only Bosch recommends doing this 
- Install the socket in the area of the adjacent cabinet by cutting a hole in its back wall. The method is not bad, access is normal, security is also good. The only negative is that there are not always lockers nearby. It happens that it is a refrigerator or other equipment.
The best option is in the locker nearby
A few words about choosing a socket and plug. If you install a 16 A machine, it makes sense to install electrical installation devices with the same rating. This guarantees long-term and uninterrupted operation without burning contacts or melting the case.
Installing the Terminal Block
Connecting household appliances via a terminal block is considered more reliable. Contact here is ensured by clamping screws, which is more reliable than when connected through a plug and socket. The disadvantage of this connection is the relative difficulty of breaking the circuit. You will have to remove the cover, unscrew the bolts that hold the wires, and pull them out. Therefore, it is used only if there is a circuit breaker on the line. Moreover, it is desirable that it be bipolar and break both phase and neutral at once.
In terminal blocks of the “old” type - carbolite - the contacts are open; it is better to install such a block in a small box. In order not to overpay for the box, you can use a standard junction box. A three-pin block fits perfectly into a square one. If you need to connect the oven to a three-phase network, you will need to install an oblong model under the five-pin socket.
The box can be fixed to the wall surface. This option is suitable if the wiring is pulled after the repair is completed. If the cable is laid in a groove, it makes sense to recess the box into the wall.
When connecting, you will need to insert the wires stripped of insulation under the metal plates and tighten the contact with clamping bolts (screwdriver). In this case, you need to make a decent effort so that the contact is good. Please note that the wires cannot be mixed up when connecting. The phase wire from the oven should be opposite the phase wire that came from the panel, the neutral (zero) should be strictly opposite to zero, the ground should be opposite the ground wire. It is important. Be careful.
Connecting the cable/cord to the oven
Connecting an oven often involves the need to connect a cable or cord. For these purposes, there is a terminal block on the rear wall of the case. It is covered with a lid. The cover can be metal or plastic, held on by latches or screws. The options vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, but it’s impossible to make a mistake—there’s nothing else.
To 220 V network
First, remove the cover. Under it we see terminals with multi-colored wires connected on one side. If you are going to connect the oven to a 220 V network, there will be many more terminals than wires. Some are connected by jumpers. They must be installed, but can be checked. In general, the jumper installation diagram must be on the case. It can be embossed (as in the photo) or painted on (sticker).
For a single-phase 220 V network there must be three jumpers. Two phases connect - the first, second and third output. And one stands between the fourth and fifth.
The wires from the cable/cord are connected as follows:
- To the third phase.
- By the fifth - neutral. The wire is blue or light blue.
- To zero (can be before the first or after the fifth) - grounding. With a yellow-green color.
The connection should be in exactly this sequence. Then the wires must be connected to the three-pin plug in this order: on the top pin - yellow-green, on the right - phase, on the left - zero (blue).
To 380 V network
When connecting to a three-phase network, there is only one jumper left - on the fourth and fifth terminals.
Connecting the cord conductors according to the following diagram.
When installing powerful kitchen equipment (oven, hob), you should follow the principles of its safe connection - use special consumables and components for electrical wiring. One of the important elements is the socket for the oven. If you ignore this norm, household appliances will not last long.
What sockets are needed for powerful equipment?
The oven requires power sockets of 16-32 A, depending on the technical characteristics of the equipment
The cable and socket for the oven should be selected according to the power of the device. It is usually indicated in the technical documentation for the equipment. Basically, ovens operate at a voltage of 220/380 V. The current strength here is 25/32 A. It all depends on whether the equipment in front of the master is single-phase or three-phase.
More often, the following sockets for stoves and ovens are used for powerful cabinets:
- For 16 A and 220 V. Designed for standard household appliances with a power of up to 3.5 kW.
- At 32A/220 V. Used with single-phase ovens with a power of 3.6-7 kW.
- At 20 A/380 V. Designed for three-phase equipment.
All power points for powerful equipment are grounded. Therefore, they have more terminals than standard elements. For single-phase sockets, there are two supply points and one ground. Three-phase ones have 3 feeders, one for grounding, one for zero (5 in total).
Possibility of connecting the oven to a regular outlet
It is not recommended to connect the oven to a regular outlet. Fire safety standards establish that separate power lines must be installed for powerful kitchen appliances. This is due to the fact that oven and frying equipment consumes more power than standard appliances: washing machine, hair dryer, kettle, etc. If you do not make a separate line, the machine will constantly work in the house or an emergency will arise due to melting/ignition of weaker wiring .
The exception is ovens with a power of up to 3.5 kW. They can operate from a standard outlet.
Locations for installing power points
The oven socket cannot be installed in the following areas of the kitchen, according to established standards:
- on the wall in close proximity to hot equipment;
- in the area of wet objects: washing, draining, water pipes;
- at a height much larger than the working surface;
- near gas pipes - sockets are removed from them by at least 40 cm;
- in close proximity to the floor - it is advisable to raise the power point 15-20 cm from its level, ideally 100 cm.
A good area to install a power point is the wall under the countertop - under the built-in furniture. In this case, access to the outlet is always open, and the area where it is located remains dry. Connecting the plug to the socket is very simple here.
Craftsmen recommend refraining from the decision to make an outlet behind the oven. The feeding point should be located in a dry place accessible to the owner’s eye. It should not be exposed to temperature changes. And in any case, this is inevitable when the cabinet is operating.
Another point that is worth considering is the operation of the combi oven (steam supply to industrial installations). Even in small quantities, condensation can settle on an outlet located behind the equipment. This is already an assumption of an emergency situation.
A power point installed immediately behind the cabinet may prevent it from being organically integrated into the overall “ensemble” of the kitchen. The equipment will unsightly protrude beyond the same common line with the furniture.
Power determination
Power is the main parameter that determines the choice of outlet to which you can connect later when installing the oven. To calculate it, you need to divide the amount of power consumed by the equipment (for example, 3.5 kW) by the network voltage. Typically, the master receives a value of 16, 20 or 32 A. This socket indicator will allow you to safely install, connect and operate the oven.
Parameters to consider
When connecting the oven and hob to the electrical outlet, it is important to pay attention to the type of appliance plug. More often it is presented in the European standard. Therefore, you need to buy a socket from the same class. Otherwise, the money will be wasted.
Additionally, it is advisable to pay attention to the material of the inside of the socket. It is better if these are ceramic rather than aluminum components. Only under such conditions will the power point withstand a continuous cycle of operation of the equipment for 2-3 hours (standard mode for oven equipment).
In order to de-energize the kitchen as quickly as possible in the event of an emergency, it is better to provide 32 A circuit breakers in the distribution panel.
Socket installation diagrams
Installation diagram of equipment and sockets
Connecting the power point can be done in the following ways:
- Open installation. Provides for the use of an overhead socket on the wall. Power points must be installed openly on wooden walls. This is regulated by the PUE. It is prohibited to embed either wiring or sockets into the tree. For concrete, brick, gas blocks, the open installation method is at the discretion of the master, if it fits into the overall concept of the kitchen interior.
- Hidden way. Involves inserting a socket into the wall. This method is most often used when carrying out major renovations in the kitchen or before finishing, since the work is quite dirty. You will have to significantly damage the tiled kitchen apron. However, for an experienced master this is not a problem.
From a fire safety point of view, the open method of installing sockets is more preferable. In addition, they can be easily built into kitchen cabinets or tables.
Possible mistakes
Sometimes craftsmen make the following mistakes when installing sockets under the oven:
- Lay a separate wire, grounding the power point to pipes and risers. This is life-threatening.
- Connect other household kitchen appliances to the oven's power circuit. This provokes emergency situations.
- Three-phase models of equipment are connected to a single-phase electrical line. Some of the hob burners will be blocked, and their indicators will show residual heat.
To choose the right socket for your oven, you must first read the technical documentation for it. You cannot use a double combination socket to connect a hob and oven at the same time. A separate powerful cable is pulled for each type of equipment. If both types of equipment are on the same supply line, this will trigger the machine.
In new buildings, the issue of connecting power lines to kitchen electrics is already provided for. Therefore, here it is easier for the master to connect with his own hands.