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Construction of a water tower for a summer residence. Do-it-yourself installation of a water tower in the country house

Is it advisable to install an individual storage tank? How to build a water tower on your own site? What formulas should be used to calculate pipe diameter and water flow? Which foundation to choose? Our article will tell about all this.

In the previous article, we talked about the designs, types and functions of water towers (WTs). When it comes to the water supply of an entire district or village, the installation of such a serious structure is certainly justified. But will it be useful to a private trader?

In what cases is it advisable to install your own water tower

  1. When connected to the city water supply. The private sector with gardens and orchards is a stable and powerful consumer of water, so during the peak season there is often a drop in pressure in the pipes.
  2. If there are large areas to be irrigated. The water supply will ensure timely watering and withstand the technology of growing plants.
  3. When engaged in animal husbandry. This type of activity requires a constant flow of clean water. In the tank, the water will settle and be heated naturally.
  4. With unstable water and electricity supply. You will be able to fill your own tower during the best pressure (tension), for example, at night. Installing simple automation will ensure the operation of the water supply system in offline mode.
  5. When using your own well. WB will save electricity and pumping station life due to the optimal operation mode.

A simple analysis shows that owning a water tower is not a strange whim, but in many cases an urgent need. Reduced tenfold, it will become the key to reliable operation of pumps and constant uninterrupted water supply to a single household or house.

How to calculate a water tower

It will rather not be about a full-fledged water tower, but about a gravitational hydraulic system based on it. The rule we know - "the bottom of the tank should be located above the highest point of consumption" - says that it is enough to set the tank at a certain level, which is not difficult to calculate.

Note. The prerequisite is the presence of a source - your own well with an installed pumping station or connection to the city water supply.

Suppose there are two consumers - a vegetable garden and a cowshed. The first is located 35, and the second 25 m from the source. At the same time, the drinkers in the barn are set at a level of 1 meter. Watering the garden is carried out from ground level. The pipeline branches have a minimum common section of the main (i.e. they diverge close to the tank).

Understanding water consumption

The volume of the tank directly depends on this indicator. Here, rather than calculations, there are observations. It is necessary to install a water meter at the pumping station (source) and empirically establish the daily flow. Let's say the average consumption was 5 cubic meters. m / day. The volume of the tank should be 20% larger, we accept 6 cubic meters. m.

Calculate the installation height of the tank

For pressure holding, not only the height difference is important, but also the distance of the consumer from the source. 1 m of water movement vertically is equal to 15 m horizontally. That is, in order to effectively move water by gravity by 15 m horizontally, a drop of 1 m is required. In this case, not the length, but the cross section of the pipe is calculated in aggregate. The maximum length of one branch of the pipeline is taken as the calculated one.

The estimated height of the column for the first branch ( H st 1) will be equal to:

  • H st 1 = 35/15 = 2.3 m

The second branch (barn) has a level difference to increase (drinkers) and this must be taken into account.

The estimated height of the column for the second branch ( H st 2) will be equal to:

  • H st 2 = 25/15 + 1 = 2.66 m

Even though the second consumer is closer, it needs a higher pole due to the level difference. The total calculated value is the largest indicator, i.e. 2.66 m. We add 15% of the margin and accept H st \u003d 3 m.

The calculation shows that under these conditions the bottom of the tank should be at a level of 3 m, while the initial pressure in the system (at the bottom of the tank) will be equal to:

  • P \u003d pxghh, Where
  • R- density of water (1000 kg / m3)
  • g- acceleration (9.8 m / s 2)
  • h- height of the water column
  • P \u003d 1000 x 9.8 x 3 \u003d 29400 Pa \u003d 0.294 MPa \u003d 0.3 bar

We calculate the diameter of the pipe

Here everything is a little more complicated. The required diameter is calculated from the flow rate and the water flow rate. According to Toricelli's law:

  • V2 = 2gh, Where V is the flow rate, and h- the height of the column we get:
  • V 2 \u003d 2 x 9.8 x 3 \u003d 58.8
  • V = square root of 58.8 = 7.66 m/s

We calculate the pipe cross section of 50 mm using the formula S = Pr 2:

  • S \u003d 3.14 x 0.0252 \u003d 0.0019625 sq. m

We calculate the water consumption ( R) according to the formula R=SV:

  • R \u003d 0.0019625 x 7.66 \u003d 0.015 cu. m/s = 15 l/s = 900 l/min

If the water flow per hour is known in advance, then the pipe diameter can be calculated using the formula:

  • D = 2 square root of S/P where S = R/square root of 2gh

In our case, a water flow of 900 l / min is quite acceptable - the entire supply can be reset in 6-10 minutes. In this case, the diameter of the pipe 50 mm should not decrease.

Attention! Each 90° elbow gives a pressure loss of 5-7%. Design a system with a minimum number of corners.

We select a pump for tanks

As a rule, pumping stations are installed in the well caisson. It is reasonable to build a water tower directly above the caisson. This will allow you to combine all the nodes in one place, which in turn will simplify repairs and maintenance. We talked about how to choose a borehole pump in one of the previous articles. The volume of water supply of an average pumping station ranges from 4 to 9 cubic meters. m / min, which fully meets the needs of a conditional economy. The cost of equipment (pump, filters, fittings) will be approximately 15,000 rubles.

We select tanks

Water tanks can be any, but must meet the requirements of tightness and be suitable for drinking water:

  1. The best solution is 1 cubic meter cubic tanks. m in a metal frame. They are called "Eurocube". They, as a rule, provide overflow, bottom and side openings for combining several tanks into one system. Thanks to the cubic shape, they are stable and occupy a minimum of space. The frame allows you to install them on top of each other, which will give an increase in the column. The cost of one new Eurocube is 8000 rubles, used - 4500 rubles. You will need 6 of these cubes. - 48,000 and 27,000 rubles. respectively.
  2. Solid homemade tank. It can be made on site from sheets of metal with stiffeners. This option may be unacceptable due to the deterioration of the properties of water during the oxidation of the metal. Or you need to use steel of higher grades.
  3. Associated barrels. Ordinary metal barrels of 200-240 liters can be a way out on a modest budget. They also allow a multi-storey layout and are inexpensive - 500 rubles per piece. (new). For 6 tons you will need 12 pcs. total cost of 6000 rubles.

We select a support system for tanks

In any of the above cases of tank selection, we will need a platform of 2x2 m at a height of 3 m. The calculated mass of water at maximum load is 6 tons. To hold such a mass, a foundation structure is required and there are two acceptable options.

steel frame

Crafted from metal pipes. It consists of a foundation, racks, diagonal rods, platform plane material and, if possible, a canopy. Racks made of pipes with a diameter of at least 75 mm are concreted in increments of 500 mm over the entire plane of the site. Diagonal rods (pipe 1 inch, strip, fittings, etc.) create spatial rigidity. The platform must be welded from a metal corner 45x45 mm or more. From the edge of the site to the tank wall, leave a margin of 250-400 mm for possible insulation.

Walls (box)

Around the caisson, a strip foundation of approximately 2.5x2.5 m is arranged, into which 75 mm pipes are concreted at the corners. Then walls are laid out of cinder block or brick (1 brick thick). Stone pillars are laid out at the corners. As floor beams, use a channel 85-100 mm in increments of 500-600 mm. Subsequently, the structure can be equipped for auxiliary needs.

Pipes

As can be seen from the conditions of the problem, the total length of the main line is 25 + 35 = 60 m. 20% for expenses, in total we take 75 m. The price of a polyethylene pipe is approximately 60 rubles / sq. m. m. Total 4500 rubles. per pipe + 500 rubles. for fittings = 5000 rubles.

When equipping a water tower for year-round use, remember about insulation. Even if it is empty in winter, some layer of insulation will protect the tanks (unless they are steel) from temperature deformations.

In the next article, we will explain how to equip the hydraulic system at home and how to create a combined water tower for home and household.

Water tower in the country- the key to a good harvest and excellent rest. Dacha without water turns work on the ground into a heavy duty. Available water is the main component of successful agricultural work in the country. Therefore, the question of the need to own your own water tower is quite relevant today. What can it give, how much will such a luxury cost, and is the tower really a luxury, not a necessity? The questions are actually not as difficult as they seem. The answers to them are further in the publication.

What can be a water tower in the country?

For summer residents, the problem of various difficulties in water supply is most relevant. Therefore, a water tower is a truly indispensable structure in a summer cottage. Its main advantage is reliability and ease of use. For this reason, until today, in small settlements and summer cottages, water pumps are used in the common people to ensure centralized cold water supply. Their key purpose is to regulate both water flow and pressure in the network, as well as the formation of the necessary water supply. The latter is mandatory, for example, in case of fire. A typical water pump is a large container designed for water (usually in a cylinder configuration) and a supporting structure. In addition, such an object is necessarily equipped with outlet and supply pipes, special overflow devices that prevent overfilling of the tank, and a measurement system.

What is the working principle of a water pump? Everything is elementary simple here. When water consumption decreases somewhat, then its excess supplied by the pump accumulates in the tank. It is spent from it when a period of increased water consumption begins. The pumping station can thus become the key to the necessary water supply, its almost imperceptible gradual accumulation.

Let's clarify, water pumps made at a professional level can be quite high and reach, and sometimes exceed 25 meters. Home-made analogues, as a rule, are represented by small forms and most often it is an ordinary 100-200-liter barrel raised to a certain height (not higher than 2.5 m).

What is required to install a water tower in the country?

You can build the simplest water pump in the country for irrigation of agricultural crops yourself. How to do this with a small amount of fittings and the usual large capacity, you can find a lot of tips and recommendations on the net, including not only text with photos, but also videos, and with a step-by-step explanation of each of the technological operations. In any case, in order to install a water tower, neither more nor less, but only 2 important conditions must be met. First, there must be a source of water. Second, you need electricity. The rest is a matter of technique, desire, skill and ability. But, of course, a professionally made water tower will be much more productive, and even more pleasant to look at at their summer cottage. For example, it can be the so-called Rozhnovsky tower.

Who is able to manufacture and carry out a professional installation of a water tower?

MPO Engineer LLC (Mikhailovsky Production Association Engineer LLC) specializes in the professional manufacture and installation of Rozhnovsky towers. The plant, having its own production sites, produces water pumps both according to a standard and according to an individual project. Delivery and installation works are carried out by the enterprise, if it is necessary for the customer.

The towers from MPO Engineer LLC are designed to regulate irregular water consumption, to preserve both a limited water reserve and a fire-fighting reserve.

A huge plus of cooperation with professionals is the reasonable selection of the height of the column, as well as the volume of the structure. It is guaranteed to be based on serious technological calculations.

It should be noted that the Rozhnovsky towers are really successful in terms of design, because of their simplicity and high efficiency. Such a building boasts a whole list of advantages, as well as a rather long period of service, subject to the basic postulates of operation.

The list of water pumps produced by "LLC "MPO Engineer"":

  • VBR-15 with a tank capacity of 15 m 3, a height of 14.79 m;
  • VBR-25 with a tank capacity of 25 m 3 and a height of 16.5 m, 19.5 m;
  • VBR-50 with a tank capacity of 50 m 3 and a height of 23.5 m, 25.5 m, 26.5 m;
  • VBR-127 (column) with a tank capacity of 127 m 3 and a height of 25 m;
  • VBR 160 (column) with a tank capacity of 160 m 3 and a height of 25 m.

How to place an order for the manufacture of the Rozhnovsky tower

In fact, placing an order for the manufacture of the Rozhnovsky tower is as easy as shelling pears. To do this, it is worth filling out a form on the plant’s resource and waiting for a commercial offer from the manufacturer. There is nothing difficult to fill. It involves entering information in the following fields:

  • contact details (client name, phone numbers, e-mail, contactee);
  • requests for a technical plan (length, diameter and capacity of the water tank, thickness of the base material, diameter of the support, the presence of a fence on the roof, an inspection hatch of the upper and lower, overflow pipes, ladders, ice-holding brackets, painting, stretch marks, the need for delivery, as well as installation work at the customer's site).
  • additional plan requirements.

After filling out the form, the resource will automatically give you the cost of the object you have chosen, and then you decide which option is the most attractive, economical and comfortable.

Is it advisable to install an individual storage tank? How to build a water tower on your own site? What formulas should be used to calculate pipe diameter and water flow? Which foundation to choose? Our article will tell about all this.

In the previous article, we talked about the designs, types and functions of water towers (WTs). When it comes to the water supply of an entire district or village, the installation of such a serious structure is certainly justified. But will it be useful to a private trader?

In what cases is it advisable to install your own water tower

  1. When connected to the city water supply. The private sector with orchards and orchards is a stable and powerful consumer of water, so during the peak season there is often a drop in pressure in the pipes.
  2. If there are large areas to be irrigated. The water supply will ensure timely watering and withstand the technology of growing plants.
  3. When engaged in animal husbandry. This type of activity requires a constant flow of clean water. In the tank, the water will settle and be heated naturally.
  4. With unstable water and electricity supply. You will be able to fill your own tower during the best pressure (tension), for example, at night. Installing simple automation will ensure the operation of the water supply system in offline mode.
  5. When using your own well. WB will save electricity and pumping station life due to the optimal operation mode.

A simple analysis shows that owning a water tower is not a strange whim, but in many cases an absolute necessity. Reduced tenfold, it will become the key to reliable operation of pumps and constant uninterrupted water supply to a single household or house.

How to calculate a water tower

It will rather not be about a full-fledged water tower, but about a gravitational hydraulic system based on it. The rule known to us - "the bottom of the tank should be located above the highest point of consumption" - says that it is enough to install the tank at a certain level, which is not difficult to calculate.

Note. The initial condition is the presence of a source - your own well with an installed pumping station or connection to the city water supply.

Suppose there are two consumers - a vegetable garden and a barn. The first is located 35, and the second 25 m from the source. At the same time, the drinkers in the barn are set at a level of 1 meter. Watering the garden is carried out from ground level. The pipeline branches have a minimum common section of the main (i.e., they diverge close to the tank).

Understanding water consumption

The volume of the tank directly depends on this indicator. Here, rather than calculations, there are observations. It is necessary to install a water meter at the pumping station (source) and empirically establish the daily flow. Let's say the average consumption was 5 cubic meters. m / day. The volume of the tank should be 20% larger, we accept 6 cubic meters. m.

Calculate the installation height of the tank

For pressure holding, not only the height difference is important, but also the distance of the consumer from the source. 1 m of water movement vertically is equal to 15 m horizontally. That is, in order to effectively move water by gravity by 15 m horizontally, a drop of 1 m is required. In this case, not the length, but the cross section of the pipe is calculated in aggregate. The maximum length of one branch of the pipeline is taken as the calculated one.

The estimated height of the column for the first branch ( H st 1) will be equal to:

  • H st 1 = 35/15 = 2.3 m

The second branch (barn) has a level difference to increase (drinkers) and this must be taken into account.

The estimated height of the column for the second branch ( H st 2) will be equal to:

  • Hst2 = 25/15 + 1 = 2.66 m

Even though the second consumer is closer, it needs a higher pole due to the level difference. The total calculated value is the highest indicator, i.e. 2.66 m. We add 15% of the margin and accept H st \u003d 3 m.

The calculation shows that under these conditions the bottom of the tank should be at a level of 3 m, while the initial pressure in the system (at the bottom of the tank) will be equal to:

  • P=pxghh, Where
  • R- density of water (1000 kg / m3)
  • g- acceleration (9.8 m / s 2)
  • h- water column height
  • P \u003d 1000 x 9.8 x 3 \u003d 29400 Pa \u003d 0.294 MPa \u003d 0.3 bar

We calculate the diameter of the pipe

Here everything is a little more complicated. The required diameter is calculated from the flow rate and the water flow rate. According to Toricelli's law:

  • V2 = 2gh, Where V is the flow rate, and h- the height of the column we get:
  • V 2 \u003d 2 x 9.8 x 3 \u003d 58.8
  • V = square root of 58.8 = 7.66 m/s

We calculate the pipe cross section of 50 mm using the formula S = Pr 2:

  • S \u003d 3.14 x 0.0252 \u003d 0.0019625 sq. m

We calculate the water consumption ( R) according to the formula R=SV:

  • R \u003d 0.0019625 x 7.66 \u003d 0.015 cu. m/s = 15 l/s = 900 l/min

If the water flow per hour is known in advance, then the pipe diameter can be calculated using the formula:

  • D = 2 square root of S/P where S = R/square root of 2gh

In our case, a water flow of 900 l / min is quite acceptable - the entire supply can be reset in 6–10 minutes. In this case, the diameter of the pipe 50 mm should not decrease.

Attention! Each 900 elbow gives a pressure loss of 5-7%. Design a system with a minimum number of corners.

We select a pump for tanks

As a rule, pumping stations are installed in the well caisson. It is reasonable to build a water tower directly above the caisson. This will allow you to combine all the nodes in one place, which in turn will simplify repairs and maintenance. We talked about how to choose a borehole pump in one of the previous articles. The volume of water supply of an average pumping station ranges from 4 to 9 cubic meters. m / min, which fully meets the needs of a conditional economy. The cost of equipment (pump, filters, fittings) will be approximately 15,000 rubles.

We select tanks

Water tanks can be any, but must meet the requirements of tightness and be suitable for drinking water:

  1. The best solution is 1 cubic meter cubic tanks. m in a metal frame. They are called "Eurocube". They, as a rule, provide overflow, bottom and side openings for combining several tanks into one system. Thanks to the cubic shape, they are stable and occupy a minimum of space. The frame allows you to install them on top of each other, which will give an increase in the column. The cost of one new eurocube is 8000 rubles, used - 4500 rubles. You will need 6 of these cubes. - 48,000 and 27,000 rubles. respectively.
  2. Solid homemade tank. It can be made on site from sheets of metal with stiffeners. This option may be unacceptable due to the deterioration of the properties of water during the oxidation of the metal. Or you need to use steel of higher grades.
  3. Associated barrels. Ordinary metal barrels of 200-240 liters can be a way out on a modest budget. They also allow multi-storey layout and are inexpensive - 500 rubles per piece. (new). For 6 tons you will need 12 pcs. total cost of 6000 rubles.

We select a support system for tanks

In any of the above cases of tank selection, we will need a platform of 2x2 m at a height of 3 m. The calculated mass of water at maximum load is 6 tons. To hold such a mass, a foundation structure is required and there are two acceptable options.

steel frame

Crafted from metal pipes. It consists of a foundation, racks, diagonal rods, platform plane material and, if possible, a canopy. Racks made of pipes with a diameter of at least 75 mm are concreted in increments of 500 mm over the entire plane of the site. Diagonal rods (pipe 1 inch, strip, fittings, etc.) create spatial rigidity. The platform must be welded from a metal corner 45x45 mm or more. From the edge of the site to the tank wall, leave a margin of 250–400 mm for possible insulation.

Walls (box)

Around the caisson, a strip foundation of approximately 2.5x2.5 m is arranged, into which 75 mm pipes are concreted at the corners. Then walls are laid out of cinder block or brick (1 brick thick). Stone pillars are laid out at the corners. Use an 85–100 mm channel with a step of 500–600 mm as floor beams. Subsequently, the structure can be equipped for auxiliary needs.

Pipes

As can be seen from the conditions of the problem, the total length of the main line is 25 + 35 = 60 m. 20% for expenses, in total we take 75 m. The price of a polyethylene pipe is approximately 60 rubles / sq. m. m. Total 4500 rubles. per pipe + 500 rubles. for fittings = 5000 rubles.

When equipping a water tower for year-round use, remember about insulation. Even if it is empty in winter, some layer of insulation will protect the tanks (unless they are steel) from temperature deformations.

In the next article, we will explain how to equip the hydraulic system at home and how to create a combined water tower for home and household.

Vitaly Dolbinov, rmnt.ru

When summer comes, the eternal cares of gardeners begin: weeding and watering. Irrigation technology is simple: put the pump into a barrel with water heated during the day, plug the pump plug into the socket and move along the beds with a hose. However, the hose at this time behaves like a capricious child: it will either tie into a knot, then twist, then break, and even cling to everything that it can. When moving from bed to bed, make sure that the hose does not damage tomatoes, cucumbers and other plantings. In general, I wondered how to make a water tower with my own hands, organize irrigation, and at the same time solve a number of other problems.

drip irrigation system

There are many drip irrigation systems on the market today. The simplest and, in my opinion, successful, are a system of hoses with drip dispensers, fittings for connecting to a pressure tank and taps for switching the water supply to one or another bed.

As a pressure tank, it is recommended to use a container raised above the ground to a height of at least 1 m. The volume of the container should be sufficient for watering the entire garden. The use of running water is undesirable due to the low temperature of the water, which is harmful to plants. In the pressure tank, the water heats up to an acceptable temperature in one or two days and does not create a stressful situation for plantings. Thus, we can formulate the minimum requirements for a mini-water tower:

  • the volume should be sufficient for a single watering of the entire garden;
  • the material must be resistant to ultraviolet radiation;
  • color for faster heating should be dark;
  • the material should not be transparent, otherwise the water will bloom quickly and a cap of green algae will grow in the tank;
  • according to the location, the installation height should be at least 1 m above ground level, or even more.

Tank selection

When calculating the required volume, I took into account the need for watering (~ 350 l) and 30–50 l for technical needs: car washing, adding water to the children's pool, water for cleaning rooms, etc.

After analyzing the characteristics and prices of products offered by domestic manufacturers, I settled on a black ATV‑750 medium-hard polyethylene tank with a volume of 750 liters from Aquatech. It is equipped with two 3/4" threaded fittings and one 1" threaded fitting. Additionally, there is a technological hole Ø 34 mm in the upper part.

Water tower: blueprint

I made the tower from square and rectangular pipes with a wall thickness of at least 2 mm. This thickness is necessary to ensure reliable welding without burning through the walls. As a rule, steel profile manufacturers, in order to save money, make the thickness of rolled products within the minimum tolerance, and instead of 2 mm, it sometimes reaches 1.5 mm.

The tower was made in the form of a truncated pyramid 2.29 m high and with an angle at the base of 85 ° (Fig. 1). Technologically, it was easier to make it in the form of a rectangular parallelepiped, but I was categorically not satisfied with the appearance of such a design. Fears in the complexity of welding a truncated pyramid turned out to be in vain. Provided that the angle at the base of the tower and the length of the pillars are accurately calculated, as well as their exact cutting to size in length and angles, the pyramid turns out by itself.

Strange, at first glance, the height (2.29 m) of the tower is due to the length of the sold steel profile, equal to 6 m. With these dimensions, 12 m of the profile 60 × 60 × 3 mm were required.

I made the base from a rectangular pipe 80 × 40 × 2 mm, welded braces from a 40 × 40 × 2 mm profile into the upper and lower corners. The upper platform was welded from the remains of pipes 60 × 40 × 2 mm. I made the fence posts from pipes 40 × 40 × 2, for the fence I used the corners 50 × 50 × 4 mm remaining from the construction of the fence; one of them is removable, fastened with bolts and nuts. I did this so that it would be convenient to put and remove the tank.

At the base of the tower there is a concrete slab 15 cm thick, in which two layers of reinforcing mesh 50 × 50 × 5 are laid. The slab was poured on a sand cushion 15 cm thick. The tower frame was fastened to the foundation slab by welding to reinforcement bars embedded in concrete. Lifting a tank weighing 24 kg onto the tower did not cause any problems, however, before putting the water tower in the country house, I mounted some of the fittings.

Installation of a water tower on the site

The scheme of piping with water fittings is shown in fig. 2, 3. To fill the tank, the hose of the pump or external water supply is connected to fitting 4 and water is supplied to the tank through a metal-plastic pipe 19 (Ø 20 mm) through fitting A. To control the filling, a transparent tube 5 made of polyvinyl chloride is used. When overflowing, water is drained through fitting 1 and tee 3.

Water intake - in two threads through fittings B and C through metal-plastic pipes 13 (Ø 16 mm) through ball valves 15. I connected a car wash to one outlet, I use the second outlet for watering the garden.

I installed the fittings in three stages. First, on a workbench in a vise, I assembled individual nodes using flax and a special sealant, and then put them on the tank. Threaded fittings A, B and C, installed on the tank, are only baited. On the inner surface of the fittings, four protrusions are made to prevent the fitting from turning during tightening.

Today we will try to understand water tower device, and how much will it cost us, what water tower designs exist for private use. On average, 1000 liters of water per week in a summer cottage will be enough. In hypermarkets, you can buy a ready-made barrel of this volume, the so-called eurocube

An alternative is also possible in the form of plastic or iron tanks, barrels and any other suitable containers.

You can also use one tank of suitable size or arrange several barrels, the total volume of which is your needs for water supply, placing them in random order in one plane or in the form of a pyramid.

Today we will consider the option of building a water tower with a 1000-liter Eurocube on a triangular tower. Let us immediately explain why exactly the “tripod design”. I remembered the lessons of physics on the calculation of the area and rigidity of a triangle. In addition, a significant savings of almost 7 meters has become a pleasant bonus when calculating the required amount of corner for racks. First, we need to calculate water tower height according to the required water pressure. If we do not go into complex calculations, we will use the philistine way of compiling the necessary formula for summer residents wise with life experience. Such a calculation reads as follows: one meter of the height of the structure with a water tank located on it is able to effectively move water by 15 meters. In other words 15 m horizontal equal 1 m vertical. Add to this the height at which the taps are located in the house (approximately 1 m) and take 15% in reserve. As a result, we have the formula: H \u003d 50 / 15 + 1.5 + 15% \u003d 5.05 - where: 50 is the distance from the water collector to the extreme point, 1.5 is the approximate height of the taps and 15% is the required margin. Of course, professionals would have ridiculed me with such calculations, but the fact remains that such a simplified formula works flawlessly. An example of calculating the height of a water tower:

As for the cross section of the pipes, an inch will be enough, and you can put half an inch on the branches for irrigation. If you approach the issue more thoroughly, you can use the Shevelev tables for the hydraulic calculation of water pipes. As for water consumption, these indicators are strictly individual, but they are very important, since the required volume of the tank directly depends on them. It will not be difficult to calculate this if you install a meter at the outlet of water from a source (well or well). You will know the average daily water consumption, you need to add 20-25% of the reserve to it.

The “legs of the tower” go to a depth of almost one and a half meters. This is quite justified given the weight that she has to carry. The foundation was made according to the type of columnar foundation in several stages. First, three holes were dug 0.9x0.9m and two meters deep. A glass knocked down from the boards was inserted into each of the pits. Then, about 50 cm filled with concrete. The result was a kind of concrete cushion, which, even under heavy weight, will not allow the supports to sag. After three or four days, you can proceed to the second stage of pouring directly by inserting the supports.

If the water tower will serve you in the country for watering plants, then containers are better destroy the water tower in dark colors, for better heating of water. In the absence of such, if you use drinking water tanks as a reservoir, which, according to the standard, are only white, you can paint them completely on the outside or on the side that is under the sun for most of the day and black or any other dark color. In order to avoid uncontrolled overflows of excess water from the tank, it is necessary to install a filling control sensor of the type that is installed for the toilet barrel. Such a tank fullness level indicator is a float (you can use an empty plastic bottle) and a “signal” flag. For "advanced" summer residents, or if the water tower serves you not only for irrigation and you use it in a more intensive mode, it is better to install an electrical relay.

The free space between the supports of the water tower can be used as a small shed for storing garden tools.