A laser level in the general sense of this definition is a device that allows you to quickly and accurately construct horizontal, vertical and inclined planes. Some levels also have a plumb line function, others allow you to build angles of 90 and/or 45 degrees.
Most devices can now be divided into two large classes: positional and rotary. Positional levels, as a rule, have two radiation sources and form visible planes using prisms. This type of level is most often used in finishing work. Rotary lasers build a bright point using lenses and, due to an electric motor, rotate quickly, forming something close to a line. Such devices are used, in particular, by installers of suspended ceilings. It is clear that in the article I will consider self-leveling levels, since levels with manual leveling are of little interest to anyone right now.
Many who engage in the so-called. construction workers, be it painters, tilers, drywallers, window and ceiling installers, cannot even imagine how much benefit this tool can bring them. But it is capable of raising the productivity and quality of work to a completely different level, and how much effort it will save... In this article we will find out in what types of finishing work and how a laser level can be used.
Laser level as an example
Here it is, I’ve been using this model for almost a year now. This is the Geo-fennel FL 40-Pocket HP. It builds 2 planes (vertical and horizontal), that is, everything is to a minimum, no points or anything else. This is more than enough for my work. The device has a beam angle of 120 degrees, an accuracy of 3 mm/10 m, a range of 20 m (indoors), a self-leveling range of 4 degrees, and runs on batteries for almost 50 hours. I bought it for 6900 rubles including delivery; If you try, you can snag one for a thousand cheaper. The kit includes a multifunctional mount for installation on anything, a magnetic laser target, batteries, and a convenient case. It paid off, according to my calculations, in the second week of plastering work.
The multifunctional mount allows you to install the laser on metal surfaces (profiles, pipes), install it on tripods (photo or geodetic), and hang it on a self-tapping screw screwed into the wall. This a huge plus this level model.
The target is suspended magnetically on the profiles and makes it easy to align them in a plane and control it.
Well, as for the case, it’s a case in Africa too. Convenient, so what? By the way, another important advantage of this model is the ability to adjust it without having to open the case. True, I haven’t used this “trick” yet, because in a year the laser hasn’t strayed even a millimeter.
So where do I use it?
Marking and installation of beacons under plaster and screed
Here, the use of a laser gives an almost twofold increase in productivity, and even a potential gain in accuracy. Without it, at this stage you need to plumb, pull the cord... And then you turn on the device and get a finished plane, you just need to align the screws on it and that’s it! And there will be no depressions or bumps on long walls, ceilings and floors; you can’t make a mistake with a laser. And what is important is that this level allows you to quickly and accurately set the same screed level in all rooms. Let's take a closer look at exactly how to use a laser on beacons using the example of plastering walls.
The device is placed close to the wall, and if you’re lucky, in the doorway; the vertical beam is set as parallel to it as possible. In the case when it is possible to fire the beam at a minimum distance from the wall, the heads of the screws are simply positioned so that the beam barely touches them. 
But most often you have to place the laser on a plane, in this case the beam is 5-7 centimeters away from the wall; then we look at which self-tapping screw will protrude the least from the wall, set it to the minimum with a screwdriver and put a mark in the place where the beam will fall on the screwdriver. We screw in the remaining screws until the beam coincides with the mark on the screwdriver. It's a matter of three minutes. I put masking tape on the screwdriver - everything is visible on it much better than on metal.
There is a slight subtlety here. It is rarely possible to align all the screws in this way, since the beam usually does not reach the top screw of the beacon closest to the laser - there is not enough rotation angle. The problem can be easily solved. The level is placed in the opposite corner of the wall, and the beam is directed to the already distant lower exposed self-tapping screw On the adjacent wall you can easily see a clear shadow from the cap in the beam, and now we position the top screw so that it casts the same shadow. That's it, the wall is marked. And it took about five minutes, not counting the process of drilling and driving the dowels into the holes. The accuracy is exceptional.
But that’s not all; when installing beacons, the laser level will help us again. We installed a beacon - fired a beam at it from the side, made sure that everything was ideal, and set up the next one. We noticed that the beam colored the lighthouse unevenly - we unstuck it and rearranged it. And no mistakes for you.
With screeds and ceilings, the process is similar, except that you won’t be able to check the beacons.
Marking and installation of plasterboard structures
If you read the article “Gypsum plasterboard ceiling”, then remember – there we marked the ceiling level using a hydraulic level. The hydraulic level is, of course, very accurate, but not very convenient, and it also requires two people to operate it. With a laser, everything is much simpler - hang it up, turn it on, and there you have the finished line, all you have to do is put marks or even immediately follow the beam with a dotted line. We saved tens of minutes on horizontal markings, and we’ll save even more on marking the main, guide profiles and hangers. But this is just the beginning! We hung a target from the guide profile, aligned the laser with it, hung the target on the main profile and attached it to the suspension, focusing on the beam. Here savings can already be measured in hours. 
This method works in the same way for walls and boxes. In addition, installing drywall with glue using a laser also becomes easier.
You can also include help with installing protective corners here, since this thing is extremely important. Careless installation of corners can negate all your efforts to level or assemble the structure from HA. Here is an example of how you can use a laser level at this stage: 
Tile work
Of course, you can’t save a lot of time on tiles, but a level will make the installation process more convenient and help you avoid mistakes.
First of all, it can greatly help the tiler in marking, I think everything is clear here. There is no need to go around all the walls with a bubble level. In addition, the benefit of the laser will be the ability to quickly and accurately check the horizontal and vertical seams. There are special levels for, they allow you to build 90/45 degree angles, but this is mainly suitable only for the floor.
Wallpapering
Naturally, no one will buy a laser to facilitate the process of wallpapering. But if it is already in your set, then it would be a sin not to use it. And it is useful not only for determining the beginning of the first stripe, but also for monitoring all the stripes. If you have glued wallpaper at least once, then you almost certainly know that the departure of one strip by a measly millimeter can provoke a centimeter at the end of the wall if this matter is not controlled. And the easiest way to control this is through the beam. You just need to pull the edges of the canvas along it and that’s it, no problems. 
Of course, the considered options for using a laser level are far from the only ones; it will be useful wherever clear geometry is needed: when installing furniture, installing windows and doors, sometimes when painting, in electrical work and many other places.
Conclusion
Of course, if you are a professional in the finishing and/or installation of various structures, such a device will greatly facilitate your work and provide a very noticeable increase in income. If you are doing a thorough repair with your own hands, including the listed stages of work, then, perhaps, you can also recommend this wonderful tool; it will save you a lot of effort and time and, of course, will pay off. If you are carrying out light, small cosmetic repairs, then there is no point in buying such a level; here you can quite get by with a plumb line and a hydraulic level (well, and a bubble one, of course). If you liked the article, subscribe to updates and receive fresh materials by email the day they are published!
A laser engraving system consists of a laser machine, an exhaust fan, a compressor, a liquid chiller, a data cable, etc. Depending on the user's production needs, the system can be equipped with computers, printers, scanners and other devices.
The laser tube is a fragile component and is therefore supplied removable in a separate package. Before starting work, the handset must be installed in the machine.
1) Remove the bolts using an allen wrench (supplied in the tool box). Place the laser tube on the two ring-shaped mounts with the exit hole facing the first mirror. The distance from the outlet hole to the first mirror is 2-5 cm. Fix two ring-shaped fasteners.
The labels on the laser tube should be at the top.
1 - Ring-shaped holders; 2 - First mirror
1 - High voltage end; 2 - Low voltage end
Attention:(1) The laser tube should not be fixed too tightly to avoid damage; (2) Make sure that the water hole (high voltage side of the laser tube) is located at the bottom of the tube, so that the water completely fills the laser tube .
After fixing the laser tube, the water inlet hose that connects to the water sensor should be connected to the high voltage side with the water receiver of the laser tube, and the water output hose should be connected to the low voltage side to the laser tube water drain (in cold weather, To avoid damaging the laser tube, it is better to scald the end of the water hose with hot water to make it softer).
1 - Water inlet; 2 - High voltage cable; 3 - Low voltage cable; 4 - Water outlet
Attention: All connected parts must be well lubricated to prevent water leakage. The rubber tube should not be twisted or pinched for normal water flow.
Finally, connect the high voltage cable to the high voltage side of the laser tube head, and the low voltage cable to the low voltage side of the laser tube head. For your safety, apply an insulating layer of silicone gel to the high voltage and low voltage side of the laser tube head.
Liquid chiller installation
Fill the chiller with clean water (the water level should be between the green and yellow marks).
1) Connect the chiller's water inlet to the laser machine's water inlet.
2) Connect the water inlet of the chiller to the overflow of the machine.
3) Connect the signal cable.
4) Connect the water chiller to the network, you will see how the laser tube is filled with water.
If water flows smoothly from the drain hose, the chiller is operating properly.
When the water chiller does not work properly, it will give a warning signal, the engraving machine will automatically enter the safe mode: the laser tube will stop working.It is necessary to ensure that there is always enough water and no bubbles form in it.
Connect the air outlet of the compressor to the air inlet of the engraving machine using an air tube.
After turning on the power, the user must make sure that air flows freely into the machine.
First of all, connect the exhaust fan inlet hole with the engraving machine exhaust hole using a corrugation, secure them with a latch. Then take another corrugation and, connecting it to the exhaust fan outlet, place its other end outward. Finally, connect the exhaust fan to a power source.
Laser level for the ceiling is a guarantee of straightness and horizontality of installation and finishing of suspended and tensioned structures.
How is a laser level useful for a ceiling?
Using a laser builder in your work, you can:
- Check the horizontalness of the ceiling, for example, when leveling it using putty.
- Determine the optimal level for installing the suspension system if the ceiling is not horizontal at the lowest point.
- Quickly and without preliminary marking, install and secure in the desired position a profile for mounting a suspended structure or a baguette for a stretch ceiling around the perimeter of the room.
- Hang additional traverses with ceiling mounts for intermediate suspensions of suspended ceiling structures.
- Install ceiling lights at a suitable level, flush with the stretch ceiling.
When solving such problems, a laser level for the ceiling allows you to carry out work without the need for preliminary markings: you can navigate by the visible laser beam. This reduces overall time costs.
How to choose a laser level for the ceiling?
The main requirement for a laser level for suspended ceilings is the function of constructing a horizontal plane with a 360° scanning angle. This way you won’t have to change the position of the device during operation, which can be difficult and inconvenient if it is mounted at a high height. Rotary levels and some models of prism laser levels - for example, RGK PR-3M - meet these requirements.
For ease of operation, the laser emitter should be as close as possible to the upper edge of the device body. This will allow you to build a plane almost close to the ceiling.
Typically, laser levels for ceilings are quite light in weight so that they can be easily mounted on light structures, and are equipped with appropriate devices for fixing them at the desired height.
If you plan to install inclined ceiling structures, you should choose a laser level model with the function of adjusting the angle of the laser system, or with a self-leveling lock.
Devices for installing laser levels for ceilings
To install the laser level in the working position, you can use: an elevation tripod with an appropriate working height, a stop rod or a special bracket with wall or ceiling mounting. These devices may be included in the package or can be purchased separately. Each of them has its own advantages and weaknesses. The main requirement for all types of such devices is that they must support the weight of your laser level and firmly fix it in the desired position at a given height.
The stop rod is installed in the space between the floor and the ceiling, so its length must be no less than the height of the room. The advantage of tripods and rods is their ease of installation - there is no need to disrupt the integrity of wall and ceiling structures, and the ability to quickly transfer such a system to another location.
It plays a significant role in the operation of the equipment; not only the resolution of the beam, but also its power depends on it. With the correct alignment of the optical path, the quality of your products will significantly improve. The success of your business very often depends on this. To fine-tune a laser engraver, you need to be patient, as this is a very complex and painstaking process.
On the one hand, it seems that there is no difficulty, you just need to place paper targets on the mirrors and point a laser beam at them, periodically changing the distance along the X and Y axes. In practice, you will not always get the desired result. As a result, it turns out that either the power is not adjusted, or there is no normal focusing of the beam. These parameters will greatly affect the quality of your engraving or cutting. Also keep in mind that you will have to do a large number of actions, replacing burning targets. Plus, to all this, you need to take into account the traumatic nature of this action. The movements of the laser beam are not visible to the human eye, and its power may cause injury or impairment of vision.
From the first minutes of setup, you will immediately have a desire to come up with something that would help simplify the procedure to a minimum and increase efficiency. Everyone wants to use a setup system to speed up the process, like in elite “brand” models. From this article you will learn how to do this.
If you are the owner of “top” laser equipment from a well-known manufacturer, costing 10 - 20 thousand dollars, then you can safely close this article. Leading laser engravers are often equipped with a red diode laser for more precise beam alignment.
The same manufacturers that produce budget models include a setup device in their kit. A tripod with rotating mirrors is fixed in front of the emitter, onto which the same laser diode is aimed. With the help of such a device it will be easier for you to configure the optical path; ease of use also leaves much to be desired. According to the instructions, it is proposed to remove the first mirror and aim the laser at the target from a distance of 2 - 4 meters, and then combine the spots of the red laser (adjuster) and the working equipment.
At first glance, it seems that this is a good way to adjust the optical path, but it is necessary to find two to four meters of free space somewhere in our small rooms. In addition, many models cannot be aimed over long distances; the metal-plastic protection of the structure interferes.
In this article you will learn how to make a very convenient device for adjusting the optical path of a laser machine from available tools. At first glance, it may seem primitive to you, but perhaps it will be useful. Using this simple device, we were EXACTLY able to adjust the optical path of the laser in 20 minutes, which increased the laser power by 15 percent and significantly improved the quality of engraving.
Step-by-step instructions for assembling and setting up a laser engraver
- First of all, you need to purchase a regular Chinese laser, costing approximately 2 - 3 dollars. Inside it contains: an adjustable lens, a red spectrum laser diode, as well as batteries (batteries).
- We disassemble the pointer to remove the LED module.
- Next, you need to connect the laser LED and the power source using wires. You need to attach a piece of plastic tube or foam rubber to the back of the structure to make it possible to connect your device instead of a standard laser emitter.
- Then we attach a paper target, this must be done opposite the 3rd mirror, move it into the carriage to the farthest point, and using rough adjustments we try to aim the laser beam at the target. You don't have to hit the very center of the mirror! It is necessary to obtain a mark on the target from the laser beam at the maximum distance from the emitter.
- After this, you need to turn off the laser engraver, while you need to leave the carriage with the lens in the same place where we made the rough adjustments and put a mark from the laser beam on the target. There is no need to touch the target either. After disconnecting the laser from the network, you must wait 10 minutes until the capacitors of the high-voltage unit are completely discharged.
- The next step is to attach your homemade laser to the hole in the laser tube. You need to install the laser in such a way as to obtain 100 percent alignment of the beams of your device and the mark from the standard laser. At this stage, you can begin to adjust the optical path of the laser machine itself, adjusting the position of the carriage along the X and Y axes and using a constant beam of a laser diode.
You will be able to clearly see the red beam of the homemade laser. After turning off the power to the laser engraver, you can move the cutting and engraving unit carriage by hand.
In this way, setting up a laser engraver becomes convenient and safe.
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